Good instructions. I was able to swing the caliper up by removing the bottom bolt and winding the top bolt out half way. Pads come out and go in no problems. 2012 PX Ranger 4x2
Cheers for the help and guidance! Got mine done this morning in 1.5hrs, although needed another video to help with the rotor boot airlock, definitely an hour job if those didn't happen. Agree with another comment below, undo top bolt about 2 revolutions and bottom bolt out, swing up and can change them easy!
Remember that non synthetic brake fluid is hydroscopic, that is it absorbs moisture, its a good idea if fluid has not been changed in 100k replacing the fluid with fresh will remove the older contaminated oil and often given a noticeably improved pedal feel and firmer brake action. This will require air bleeding the lines and flexible brake hose through the brake nipple on the caliper usually although if gravity bleeding and topping up the reservoir with new fluid before it is empty will usually do the trick without bleeding. A small amount of appropriate lube on the caliper sliding pins is also a good idea.
Thanks for this video it helped me alot. For anyone interested, if you are also doing the rotors of the 4x4 model you just need to take off the next two bolts off the caliper bracket (that's what I'm going to call it) Then it's just the rotor which you bang off with a hammer (4x4 model only as I think the 2wd is more complex to remove rotor).
Thanks for the video, I'm very mechanical but as cars get more and more gear on them the manufactures set traps to avoid the home handy man from doing any work on them, I have heard some horror stories of some late model stuff that if break pistons are pushed back into the caliper it up set the ABS and bought lights up on the dash, The car in question had to be flashed to put the light out, I can only assume this is not the case with BT50 and Ford Ranger PX2. So tomorrow I'll be doing my own Ranger front pads for the first time with 168,000 K's on it. Thank you for the time it took you to make such a clear quality video Murray in Clontarf QLD 4019
@@TheInsightDistrict Faultless mate. Thanks to your post had it all done and dusted within 20 minutes with conference. Worked out great and saved me $200 in labour. Many thanks for your post. Murrayockenfels@bigpond.com
you should coat the inside of the wheel that contacts the disc face with an anti seize product so that the next time you remove the wheel it isn't frozen by corrosion to the disk face
sorry mate you don't want to push it to the floor as this can damage the cups in the master cylinder just slight pushes on the brake pedal to get the fluid back into the calliper
You’ve clearly got tools so why would you undo the wheel nuts with a torque wrench???!! Great way to throw out calibration. Don’t be teaching people to use a torque wrench to undo, they are designed and calibrated for tightening!!! Use a breaker bar, much cheaper then a torque wrench and it’s built for that purpose.
@@TheInsightDistrict You really got dragged over the hot coals in the comments section and took it all like a champ :P ducks feathers mate good way to be. Always multiple ways to get a job done, cheers for sharing.
Very straightforward.
I would use a torque wrench on the caliper bolts though.
Very helpful video😊
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Can I suggest though one for the rear brakes.... if they are different. Onya.
Yea sounds like a great idea, they are drum brakes so will eventually do a video on them, thanks for the suggestion
Good instructions. I was able to swing the caliper up by removing the bottom bolt and winding the top bolt out half way. Pads come out and go in no problems. 2012 PX Ranger 4x2
thats really good then, any less work you have to do is great
Great video! Thanks for this.
Glad you liked it!
As easy as that, i may now replace pads of my ranger with my own
glad it helped
Cheers for the help and guidance! Got mine done this morning in 1.5hrs, although needed another video to help with the rotor boot airlock, definitely an hour job if those didn't happen.
Agree with another comment below, undo top bolt about 2 revolutions and bottom bolt out, swing up and can change them easy!
hope all your issues were resolved
Remember that non synthetic brake fluid is hydroscopic, that is it absorbs moisture, its a good idea if fluid has not been changed in 100k replacing the fluid with fresh will remove the older contaminated oil and often given a noticeably improved pedal feel and firmer brake action.
This will require air bleeding the lines and flexible brake hose through the brake nipple on the caliper usually although if gravity bleeding and topping up the reservoir with new fluid before it is empty will usually do the trick without bleeding.
A small amount of appropriate lube on the caliper sliding pins is also a good idea.
Thanks for this video it helped me alot. For anyone interested, if you are also doing the rotors of the 4x4 model you just need to take off the next two bolts off the caliper bracket (that's what I'm going to call it) Then it's just the rotor which you bang off with a hammer (4x4 model only as I think the 2wd is more complex to remove rotor).
Thanks for the advice, hopefully it helps people
Is there a video for the replacement of the rear brake pads ?
i didnt make one sorry
What yr is this truck? Would it be the same for a 2020 ford ranger
It was a 2017 model, it should be the same, if not very similar
Thanks once again.. job done!!
Your more then welcome
Well said
thank you
Thanks for the video, I'm very mechanical but as cars get more and more gear on them the manufactures set traps to avoid the home handy man from doing any work on them, I have heard some horror stories of some late model stuff that if break pistons are pushed back into the caliper it up set the ABS and bought lights up on the dash, The car in question had to be flashed to put the light out, I can only assume this is not the case with BT50 and Ford Ranger PX2.
So tomorrow I'll be doing my own Ranger front pads for the first time with 168,000 K's on it.
Thank you for the time it took you to make such a clear quality video
Murray in Clontarf QLD 4019
How did you go with replacing your pads? hope it went well
@@TheInsightDistrict Faultless mate.
Thanks to your post had it all done and dusted within 20 minutes with conference.
Worked out great and saved me $200 in labour.
Many thanks for your post.
Murrayockenfels@bigpond.com
really glad that this helped, thats what this channel is here for, to help people
I've heard the same horror stories. No doubt that'll only be European stuff haha.
Great video, would you know how to fix low beam even after changing the bulbs.
is it one bulb or both bulbs not working?
hi..can you share with me what drain plug size you are using to open the front axle and transfercase for ranger 3.2 2015?thanks..really appreciate..
Hi mate,
Maybe before you compress the piston put a old pad between the compression tool so you don’t damage the piston 👌
thanks for the info, much appreciated
you should coat the inside of the wheel that contacts the disc face with an anti seize product so that the next time you remove the wheel it isn't frozen by corrosion to the disk face
sounds like a good tip
Thanks
more than welcome
sorry mate you don't want to push it to the floor as this can damage the cups in the master cylinder just slight pushes on the brake pedal to get the fluid back into the calliper
Thanks for the info, hopefully it helps other people as well
You forgot to remove, clean, check and grease the slider pin (especially if you have uneven pad wear).
Thanks for letting me know, I'll try and make another video to include that, much appreciated
Sir, are the brakepads for a 2018 Ford Everest same as with brakepads of a 2015 Ford Ranger?
im unsure sorry
Dear sir : at 09:00 you mention “ just replace the cap” do you mean put it back ok? Or replace the whole cap? Is that needed?!
Sorry, i ment just screw the cap back into place, no need to replace it , thanks for the comment
Haha nice safty foot ware 🤣🤣👍
its the only footware i use beside my work boots when im at work...haha
tell me your an aussie without telling me your an aussie
can you tell me the break pad brand or a part number? for ranger
I use bendix brake pads, but the part number changes as the model of the ranger changes sorry
Couldnt you just remove the bottom bolts on the calipers and swing it up?
unfortunately not as it doesn't give you enough clearance to replace the pads
I would be changing the brake fluid if mine was that dirty too
You’ve clearly got tools so why would you undo the wheel nuts with a torque wrench???!!
Great way to throw out calibration.
Don’t be teaching people to use a torque wrench to undo, they are designed and calibrated for tightening!!!
Use a breaker bar, much cheaper then a torque wrench and it’s built for that purpose.
That's a great bit of advice, thanks for the heads up I didn't actually think of it at the time so much appreciated
@@TheInsightDistrict You really got dragged over the hot coals in the comments section and took it all like a champ :P ducks feathers mate good way to be. Always multiple ways to get a job done, cheers for sharing.
hope that you realise that your an angel im inlove
thank you