After making this video, I went back into my shop to find a very innocent looking snap ring sitting in the workbench. I left out one of the bearing retention snap rings. I guess I know what I'll be doing today 😢
@@nefariousyawn i have a 250 ft lbs torque wrench i paid like $50 for.. i use it only on my lug nuts for my wheels, otherwise proper torque is just tighten it till feel safe then sug it up a bit more for extra safeness...
Some poor sap who owns this car 10 years from now: "I didn't know why the brakes kept failing, but apparently it's missing this brake disc shield! I had no idea this existed, it just came in a bucket of parts that came with a different car."
They are actually not needed as long as you don't offroad. I had an 03 outback with completely rotted disk brake shields. Wasn't worth taking the knuckles apart to fix so my Subaru mechanic at the time just broke them off because they were so thin from rust they bent and contacted the rotors. Never had issues with something getting stuck and never caused wear that shouldn't happen.
"I'm very proficient at replacing wheel bearings by now." Two sentences later: "I forgot to reinstall the disk break shield :(" ...I love this channel. A lesser man would have just hid the mistake by fixing it off camera. Not Aging Wheels though, no no. Here we're treated to a very real response of basically, 'I wish I'd remembered to do that, but screw it, this wheel will have no disc break shield.'
Also, “I’m very proficient at replacing wheel bearings now” then proceeds to press the outer race into the hub carrier, by pressing on the inner race ... 🙄
I dunno. have you seen the way they heat and cool the HV pack? pretty overengineered to me . . but it also works. my 10 year old 50+k coda pack only lost 5-8% of its range it had new.
And apparently Wesley Snipes too... ;-) I can believe Dank Pods watches though, I get the impression he's into much more than MP3 players and headphones.
I messaged Wade on Patreon a while back and told him that his rusty nuggets need screentime, and he said that Ol' Mate Mercedes and the others will eventually get their time to bask in the limelight.
I love how you're sticking with weird, mostly affordable vehicles when most of the other automotive UA-camrs have gone with Italian exotics. Don't change a thing!!
I’ve been working on my $3k BMW on my channel, so there are many of us (just not very popular). Also, I’ve been subscribed to your channel since you just moved to that townhouse by the ski lift!
If you want to look at it in a certain way this is an Italian exotic, because the gas-powered car that the coda is based off was designed by an Italian design firm
Everything about your content is pleasing and we thank you for all the filming and editing. You brighten my day and I'm sure many others can say the same. Thanks! 👍
Yet another example of dev being the common denominator of all the cool tech channels. It would probably save me a lot of time by just copying the list of all the channels he follows
I love the sound the hydraulic presses make when they retract, they sound happy to have done all that heavy pressing. *“I did a good job smashing that bearing in, didn’t I?! Fweeeeeeee!”*
I did the exact same mistake, but with the front fork bearings on a bicycle. Turns out the spacer below the handlebars are kinda important if you enjoy the activity of not having a horrible bike crash.
You shouldn't press bearings in by pressing on the inner race. Press on the outer race. When dismantling and re-assembling tripod CV joints it is better to ensure that the legs of the joint go back into the same channels that they came out of. You could have reinstalled the shield by cutting away the small bit between the bolt holes and slipping it over.
Came here to say the same thing about the bearings. never press em in by the inner race, high chance of damaging the bearings. Also you can usually tell if the bearing is shielded by the part number followed by "2RS" or various other letters
I once sent off a really old Mazda 323, with my first-time wheel bearing replacement. The only problem was the spacer/shim that I hadn’t seen, lying on our workbench... the nice lady who owned the vehicle, had an awesome experience on the motorway - at speed!
Damn I love that editing on the removal of the hub. Just enough to show everything that happened, including the goof-ups (we all make 'em), and the length is perfect so as to not feel drawn out. Such a treat!
I actually winced when Robert stuck his finger in the snap ring before he got it all the way off. Been there, done that and nearly regretted it. I freaking hate snap rings!
Id say if you didnt want to disassemble everything to put the brake shield back on, maybe can cut a slit between the two bolt holes and contort the shield back on and over. Then when you bolt it back up the bolts will clamp down and hold the shield back and wont worry about that split in it.
Right after you said "I'm quite proficient at replacing wheel bearings now", you pressed the assembly into the knuckle on the inner bearing sleeve. You ruined the new bearings immediately. Wheel bearings need to be pressed into the knuckle using the housing and the hub pressed in with the sleeve supported, or the rollers press into the race and create imprints.
Some possible causes of "rumbling/vibrating on acceleration" are damaged inner CV joint (good odds, especially if you have either a cheap joint or drove the ripped boot joint for long enough to let most of the grease out, which appears the case. Wear has happened). bad engine/motor mounts (I had terrible acceleration, shifting, and idle with bad engine mounts. No clue how it would affect an electric via CVT car though) unbalanced tires (super unlikely as you mentioned "on acceleration". that issue tends to manifest at 30+ mph)
When you get to those rear windows Honda shin etsu silicone grease is the best stuff to lubricate the window tracks. Found out about it from the Miata forums but have been using it forever on all my cars. It lasts far longer than anything else and hardly attracts any dirt. Way better than any other car manufacturers factory grease and I've never had to re-grease a window I did with it - even 15 years later.
0:45 "that was the wrong bolt pretend that didn't happen " Sir your honesty is refreshing, subscribed in an instant. As a fellow fixer upper of all things shi*e I fully empathize with that statement, finding your own mistakes after the second, third, fourth attempt at overcoming someone else's complete and utter design fuc*ups means attention to the details is often distracted. However the personal satisfaction of turning a turd into just a poop far outweighs anything gained from just working on good stuff. From a fellow past Reliant driver to looking for 22 years to find and fix up the hopeless Wankle Hercules Motorcycle to find it's actually ........Hopeless but fun fixing it up, please continue fixing up crap.
This might be an interesting fact for someone. If you remove the brake shield on a SAAB 9000 you'll get the same problem with loose bearings. It took me a while (three bearing replacements and a ton of forum searching) to realise why it was eating wheel bearings for breakfast, I thought maybe it had something to do with wheel offset, size, tire width, ride height, amount of horsepower/torque output since it's modified and stage 3 tuned, but nope! It was the shield that acts as a spacer! And the shields rust pretty badly over time so when you change wheel bearing you have to buy new shield as well, at least if it's high milage or in an area with salted roads. The 9000 uses shielded angular contact hub bearings if you're wondering. I could only find two other people online talking about it and I've had several 9000s myself (thought I knew them inside and out) and gone to auto mechanics school and still had no idea... So it might have something to do with bearings and cv joints from different manufacturers varying just a fraction from the original design which means you'll get tiny bit of play without the shield, but buying original isn't really an option for an old car from a brand that went bankrupt and if you get hold of proper OEM parts they're often way too expensive anyways!
What I really like about your channel is that you are a real Renaissance man. I watch yo work on cars, fabricate, improve tools, wood work, electrical. You put your hand to anything and it all makes for enjoyable watching.
this is more informational than anything ive found about how to replace the wheelbearing and the front driveshaft on my tt... and it is not even the right car!
How many viewers chuckled watching him revealing his mistakes? Good, that is an acknowledgment we’ve been there and done that except those in front a camera make more such mistakes due to distraction. I absolutely love his skills and sense of humor! But he got us hooked to the leftover mistakes: To Be Continued.
Fair warning those stainless steel zip ties do not apply enough clumping Force and you need the actual crimp on clamps I have done this many a Time also making sure the CV joints have plenty of Grease will help with any noise
I feel your pain with the brake shield. But I have a helpful tip: You shouldn't really press on the inner race of a press-fit bearing if the outer race is what seats. You're also pressing the bearings into the races if you do that, you should only press on the outer. Also I fitted my engine coolant pump today. Twice. Had to take it back off again as there was no way to refit one of the hose clamps unless it was already on the hose, waiting to be moved up and secured, I had it waiting on the pipe, expecting to move it down - and a bloody bastard bolt ended up in the way. So yeah, me too!
Before you replace axles check your front struts. If the shock absorber part of the strut has failed it will cause rumble on acceleration on some cars. Love your videos, very entertaining.
Next time you replace the bearings use a bearing puller/installer kit like Astro Pneumatic 78825. Pressing the bearing into the knuckle by putting pressure only on the outer race is really, really good for longevity.
Man I'm so glad I'm not the only one that struggles with those bloody drive shaft clips! VW use things that look like circlips but they don't have the holes in them.
Looking at you make these super specialized repairs makes me wince. So detail oriented and finicky. Is it extreme patience or just that much love for defunct cars?
I can identify with just about all of this. I think I would have pulled that other backing plate to give the impression that's how they were ;-) Best editing on youtube fella. keep it up. 👍
Love your humor! I would not be able to leave stuff out myself, I'm also very positive minded, but in such a case I would swear a lot, sit in a corner and then fix it anyway. ;)
I'm so sorry for your troubles! This could have been prevented by what I would call "Engineering Controls", i.e. using a 1-piece bearing with seals on it. Having replaced bearings on both a 1977 Honda Civic twice, and on a 1981 VW Rabbit, I can say that in both of those vehicles, the bearings were both sealed and 1-piece angular contact. If I were you, I'd look up the dimensions for the bearings you have and see if I could cross-reference them to a better bearing. The drawback of the Honda design was that the hub pressed into the bearing thru the brake rotor - so there was no way to properly support the bearing - and pressing the hub out resulted in damaged bearings and possibly warped rotors. The first replacement was for a bad bearing and the second was for a warped rotor. You do need seals to keep the grease in and the dirt/water out. Also be aware that the shape of the CV joint can interfere with things. On the VW Rabbit, the new CV joint on one side was able to contact the bearing housing instead of the bearing - so when the axle nut was tightened, it locked the wheel up. Rather than explaining all this to the parts guy on another trip into town, I made a spacer much like the one you found - this allowed the CV joint and axle nut to clamp only the bearing inner races together. This worked fine until a dope-smoker pulled out in front of me in an intersection and totalled my Rabbit truck. I love your videos, dude! Keep up the good work! You make me forget how frustrating this sort of stuff can be - you make it FUN!
After seeing the process, I'm glad I paid a shop to replace my bearings instead of doing it myself. I have no issue with the bolt-on hubs GM used, but I don't have tools for a press-in bearing like that, which my car conveniently uses.
I wonder what the thought process was for Coda to use unshielded bearings in the first place. Anyway looks like you got the wheel bearing replacement process down to a science.
The rumble on acceleration could be transmission related. Add some Lucas oil treatment to it and see if it improves or at least changes. CV's usually do not make rumble noises unless they are about to fall off. Then they normally make other fun noises as well.
To pit the missing shield back on, you can press the hub out with a wheel puller pushing on the end of the cv. Make sure you put something under the lower arm to push It up. The cv shaft needs to be as straight as possible. It is not optimal but it works.
Doing maintenance myself, I am 100 percent behind you leaving out the disc shield. That simple but ultimately worthless type of step I miss more often than not.
I had this same issue with my 2000 Toyota Celica with a Corolla transmission. It took a few bearings before I understood the issue, lasting 3 months each!
Just a thought for you... I just watched your school bus series and thought I’d mention for the car hauler, you could get a used rollback and swap the rollback deck and hydraulics and custom fit them to the skoolie.
After making this video, I went back into my shop to find a very innocent looking snap ring sitting in the workbench. I left out one of the bearing retention snap rings. I guess I know what I'll be doing today 😢
I was almost too early to see this. 😲
It's side with the brake shield...
Murphy said so.
Oh no! Good luck!
Oh snap!
That'll teach ya to celebrate 8:40 how easy that one snap ring went back on.
"I torqued it down to a number that sounded high enough to instill a false sense of security in my mechanical acumen."
Someone buy this guy a higher range torque wrench!
That's exactly how engineers decide torque values in machines they design.
@@nefariousyawn i have a 250 ft lbs torque wrench i paid like $50 for.. i use it only on my lug nuts for my wheels, otherwise proper torque is just tighten it till feel safe then sug it up a bit more for extra safeness...
@@Getfuqqedfedboy but most lug nuts spec 90 ft-lbs (~120 NM)
I mostly use one elbow length of "ughn" on wheel nuts.
Some poor sap who owns this car 10 years from now:
"I didn't know why the brakes kept failing, but apparently it's missing this brake disc shield! I had no idea this existed, it just came in a bucket of parts that came with a different car."
They are actually not needed as long as you don't offroad. I had an 03 outback with completely rotted disk brake shields. Wasn't worth taking the knuckles apart to fix so my Subaru mechanic at the time just broke them off because they were so thin from rust they bent and contacted the rotors. Never had issues with something getting stuck and never caused wear that shouldn't happen.
"I'm very proficient at replacing wheel bearings by now." Two sentences later: "I forgot to reinstall the disk break shield :(" ...I love this channel. A lesser man would have just hid the mistake by fixing it off camera. Not Aging Wheels though, no no. Here we're treated to a very real response of basically, 'I wish I'd remembered to do that, but screw it, this wheel will have no disc break shield.'
And in these comments his admitted to missing a snap ring too! He's people just like me!
Well, discovering that loose snap ring means he'll get a chance to forget that brake shield again :P
He did say wheel bearings. He didn't say anything about disc shields.
That was the wrong bolt, pretend that didn't happen
Also, “I’m very proficient at replacing wheel bearings now” then proceeds to press the outer race into the hub carrier, by pressing on the inner race ... 🙄
"Wish I had remembered that"
Buddy we all tell ourselves that at least once a day
I love how he does not think the coda will last 25 thousand miles famous last words just incase it does lol
That bearing is going to be loaded up with brake dust.
@@tarstarkusz lol. not
@ Why do you think the shield is there in the first place? Brake dust WILL get in those bearings.
Exactly, we all do stupid stuff and regret it later/
"Overengineered" - a term nobody, ever, applied to any aspect of this car.
It is overengineered, hey could have just slapped in a diesel engine and call it a day :P
@@ravenouself4181 That is actually way more complex.
I dunno. have you seen the way they heat and cool the HV pack? pretty overengineered to me . . but it also works. my 10 year old 50+k coda pack only lost 5-8% of its range it had new.
That Koda really has some fast-Aging Wheels, doesn't it now? heh... heh heh heh... yeah I'll get off the stage now
i spent the last 1/2 hour trying to figure this out, u are right about getting off the stage though
Ahhhhh! How many children do you have? Because with perfect dad jokes like that, I'm sure you have! 😂
(standing ovation)
..
get out
You forgot your jacket.
You didn't forget the disc brake shield, you were lightening the car for performance and racing speed... :P
Weight reduction bro
@@Ideal1980 good thing that it is a disc brake shield and not a heat shield then.
"Simplify, and add lightness!"
Removed unsprung weight!
Spacing things out is very important. That's what I learned.
I've learned the same thing
From my parents divorce
Bruh. Dank Pods is one of your Patreon supporters?!?!?!?!?!? Epic crossover.
And apparently Wesley Snipes too... ;-) I can believe Dank Pods watches though, I get the impression he's into much more than MP3 players and headphones.
@@christhesnaildriver he drives a nugget and mentioned doing engine swaps and engine work. He's what I want to become.
I messaged Wade on Patreon a while back and told him that his rusty nuggets need screentime, and he said that Ol' Mate Mercedes and the others will eventually get their time to bask in the limelight.
IT'S BECAUSE THEY'RE BOTH GAYLORD PEOPLE!!!!
W H A T
I love how you're sticking with weird, mostly affordable vehicles when most of the other automotive UA-camrs have gone with Italian exotics. Don't change a thing!!
I’ve been working on my $3k BMW on my channel, so there are many of us (just not very popular). Also, I’ve been subscribed to your channel since you just moved to that townhouse by the ski lift!
Seriously?!? I watch your channel quite often!
HEY HOWS IT GOING!
If you want to look at it in a certain way this is an Italian exotic, because the gas-powered car that the coda is based off was designed by an Italian design firm
Everything about your content is pleasing and we thank you for all the filming and editing. You brighten my day and I'm sure many others can say the same. Thanks! 👍
Oh Hey Deviant! Didn't expect to see you here!
@@ale6242 I snuck in without authorization. :-)
Yet another example of dev being the common denominator of all the cool tech channels. It would probably save me a lot of time by just copying the list of all the channels he follows
Oh hey! My favorite almost criminal is here!
@@Destined4gr8nes 😉
11:36 DankPods? Oh man. You've really made it now.
King of the nuggets!
Yeah i also noticed it a few videos ago. WE NEED A CROSSOVER EPISODE SOMETIME AFTER RONA
@@ffturbo Mr Dank did say he had a collection of cars and might be working on them.. So maybe just maybe
It's nice to see at least 10 of us have a good sense of quality programming.
@@ffturbo I wonder if the sound system in the Coda is iPod-aware...
I suppose forgetting the disc brake shield meant the job was "Under Dunn"? Sorry, couldn't resist. Nice work!! Cheers!!
Careful with your new ratchet. Your ryobi tools might gang up on you.
If Project Farm's testing is any indicator, the ratchet should be able to defend itself well enough.
that's fine tti makes Milwaukee as well
@@ShadowBurn680 The Milwaukee bros I know get so butthurt at the very mention of TTI's existence. It's entertaining.
I love the sound the hydraulic presses make when they retract, they sound happy to have done all that heavy pressing.
*“I did a good job smashing that bearing in, didn’t I?! Fweeeeeeee!”*
I bet the Coda will break in a strange way due to either the disk break shield or the snap ring missing, causing C O N T E N T to happen
Do you even A L G O R I T H M
My chosen torque value was a bit les than the previous time when I sheared off the bolt. Worked like a charm
I did the exact same mistake, but with the front fork bearings on a bicycle. Turns out the spacer below the handlebars are kinda important if you enjoy the activity of not having a horrible bike crash.
Something else that adds to wheel bearing longevity: pressing in your new bearings with the outer race. Never the inner.
YES, that was cringe to see, when he pressed those in 🤥
I was looking for this comment! Poor double row bearing has no chance
Look closer: he's using the old bearing as a tool...
@ still, pressing in the middle. Especially with the old bearings, which were loose anyway - so all pressure will go down in the middlesection.
@@horstwinterscheid4927 But I think the old bearing and new bearing are only touching by their outer races, so the new one will not get damaged.
Question: Does the disc brake dust cover also act as a spacer in the same way as the other spacer?
Oh no.. ..
Not familiar with this particular vehicle, but generally they bolt on to the nuckle. So not a spacer.
I see the Yugo is on rollers, you cant hide your projects from me
You shouldn't press bearings in by pressing on the inner race. Press on the outer race. When dismantling and re-assembling tripod CV joints it is better to ensure that the legs of the joint go back into the same channels that they came out of. You could have reinstalled the shield by cutting away the small bit between the bolt holes and slipping it over.
Came here to say the same thing about the bearings. never press em in by the inner race, high chance of damaging the bearings. Also you can usually tell if the bearing is shielded by the part number followed by "2RS" or various other letters
He was pressing them in using an old bearing. The new bearing would only be pressed against by the outer race with this bearing design.
I once sent off a really old Mazda 323, with my first-time wheel bearing replacement. The only problem was the spacer/shim that I hadn’t seen, lying on our workbench... the nice lady who owned the vehicle, had an awesome experience on the motorway - at speed!
As ChrisFix would say, “use some soapy wooder”
(pulls out a spray bottle with "soapy wooder" written on it)
Damn I love that editing on the removal of the hub. Just enough to show everything that happened, including the goof-ups (we all make 'em), and the length is perfect so as to not feel drawn out. Such a treat!
I actually winced when Robert stuck his finger in the snap ring before he got it all the way off. Been there, done that and nearly regretted it. I freaking hate snap rings!
Id say if you didnt want to disassemble everything to put the brake shield back on, maybe can cut a slit between the two bolt holes and contort the shield back on and over. Then when you bolt it back up the bolts will clamp down and hold the shield back and wont worry about that split in it.
Right after you said "I'm quite proficient at replacing wheel bearings now", you pressed the assembly into the knuckle on the inner bearing sleeve. You ruined the new bearings immediately. Wheel bearings need to be pressed into the knuckle using the housing and the hub pressed in with the sleeve supported, or the rollers press into the race and create imprints.
Came to the comments to say exactly this
@@warmowed Same here.
Saw a Coda in person for the first time yesterday!!
You make it look so easy. (The lift helps I'm sure)
I sometimes wonder if having a lift is worth it, and then I think about what jobs like this would be like without a lift
@@agingwheels no kidding! Just rotating the tires is a real job without a lift. Love your stuff man! Oh! How about a chicken update soon? :^)
I wish samcrac reads this.
@@bebereyes5514 His chickens won't let him have a lift.
@@agingwheels Truth. I'm dealing with an oil pan removal right now, and a lift would be *amazing*, but all I have are some ramps in the driveway.
We are waiting for a new video, we need you man. Im worried, seeing you less and less. Much Love!
I was gonna say "someone forgot the dust shield," then you noticed. I have missed them a bunch and boy does it suck.😂
@@Ideal1980 I promise you, in the service manuals, it is a dust shield.
Will you buy the caravan made for the trabant and do a road trip with it one day?
Some possible causes of "rumbling/vibrating on acceleration" are
damaged inner CV joint (good odds, especially if you have either a cheap joint or drove the ripped boot joint for long enough to let most of the grease out, which appears the case. Wear has happened).
bad engine/motor mounts (I had terrible acceleration, shifting, and idle with bad engine mounts. No clue how it would affect an electric via CVT car though)
unbalanced tires (super unlikely as you mentioned "on acceleration". that issue tends to manifest at 30+ mph)
I thoroughly enjoy the fact that DankPods watches aging wheels.
When you get to those rear windows Honda shin etsu silicone grease is the best stuff to lubricate the window tracks. Found out about it from the Miata forums but have been using it forever on all my cars. It lasts far longer than anything else and hardly attracts any dirt. Way better than any other car manufacturers factory grease and I've never had to re-grease a window I did with it - even 15 years later.
I love these kind of videos, just simple repair/installation of parts
What I have learned today is that you would do a mean Swedish Chef impersonation
All he needs to do is start throwing things randomly around.
Something I really like about your videos is how you show just how many individually complicated things are just small parts of a whole car.
Bro you are very informational on certain topics plus, it's awesome watching your videos. Super job!
Dude I love watching your adventures with any vehicle. It's good stuff
I love your honesty
0:45 "that was the wrong bolt pretend that didn't happen " Sir your honesty is refreshing, subscribed in an instant. As a fellow fixer upper of all things shi*e I fully empathize with that statement, finding your own mistakes after the second, third, fourth attempt at overcoming someone else's complete and utter design fuc*ups means attention to the details is often distracted. However the personal satisfaction of turning a turd into just a poop far outweighs anything gained from just working on good stuff. From a fellow past Reliant driver to looking for 22 years to find and fix up the hopeless Wankle Hercules Motorcycle to find it's actually ........Hopeless but fun fixing it up, please continue fixing up crap.
This might be an interesting fact for someone.
If you remove the brake shield on a SAAB 9000 you'll get the same problem with loose bearings. It took me a while (three bearing replacements and a ton of forum searching) to realise why it was eating wheel bearings for breakfast, I thought maybe it had something to do with wheel offset, size, tire width, ride height, amount of horsepower/torque output since it's modified and stage 3 tuned, but nope! It was the shield that acts as a spacer! And the shields rust pretty badly over time so when you change wheel bearing you have to buy new shield as well, at least if it's high milage or in an area with salted roads.
The 9000 uses shielded angular contact hub bearings if you're wondering.
I could only find two other people online talking about it and I've had several 9000s myself (thought I knew them inside and out) and gone to auto mechanics school and still had no idea... So it might have something to do with bearings and cv joints from different manufacturers varying just a fraction from the original design which means you'll get tiny bit of play without the shield, but buying original isn't really an option for an old car from a brand that went bankrupt and if you get hold of proper OEM parts they're often way too expensive anyways!
I've only seen the intro and I'm really enjoying it already. Love your work.
What I really like about your channel is that you are a real Renaissance man. I watch yo work on cars, fabricate, improve tools, wood work, electrical. You put your hand to anything and it all makes for enjoyable watching.
Watching Robert to start the day and he posts a new video, sweet.
I actually saw someone driving a Coda EV in Boulder Colorado, and I thought of this channel immediately lol
this is more informational than anything ive found about how to replace the wheelbearing and the front driveshaft on my tt... and it is not even the right car!
If this video came out yesterday I might've remembered my dust shield when I changed my bearing.
Good to see that it isn't just me having a problem with snap rings! :-)
Good on you for supporting that caliper while it's hanging there, seems like most people don't.
How many viewers chuckled watching him revealing his mistakes?
Good, that is an acknowledgment we’ve been there and done that except those in front a camera make more such mistakes due to distraction.
I absolutely love his skills and sense of humor!
But he got us hooked to the leftover mistakes: To Be Continued.
Hat tip to the person who chose the Patreon codename AARGH! No hat tip to the designer of that goofy bearing retention system.
Neat how someone came up with that simple little fix
Love the transition noises!
DankPods is a patron of Aging Wheels! two of my favs
You are my disc brake shield hero! 😃
nice job, love the look of that car
dude I love your video editing!
Going to do a video on that metal lathe in the background?
You're gonna want that disc brake shield sooner than later on Missouri's roads, sir.
Fair warning those stainless steel zip ties do not apply enough clumping Force and you need the actual crimp on clamps I have done this many a Time also making sure the CV joints have plenty of Grease will help with any noise
I feel your pain with the brake shield. But I have a helpful tip: You shouldn't really press on the inner race of a press-fit bearing if the outer race is what seats. You're also pressing the bearings into the races if you do that, you should only press on the outer. Also I fitted my engine coolant pump today. Twice. Had to take it back off again as there was no way to refit one of the hose clamps unless it was already on the hose, waiting to be moved up and secured, I had it waiting on the pipe, expecting to move it down - and a bloody bastard bolt ended up in the way. So yeah, me too!
Before you replace axles check your front struts. If the shock absorber part of the strut has failed it will cause rumble on acceleration on some cars. Love your videos, very entertaining.
Next time you replace the bearings use a bearing puller/installer kit like Astro Pneumatic 78825. Pressing the bearing into the knuckle by putting pressure only on the outer race is really, really good for longevity.
or just a bit of 1/4inch plate the same size as the outer race... don't need to get fancy with it
Man I'm so glad I'm not the only one that struggles with those bloody drive shaft clips! VW use things that look like circlips but they don't have the holes in them.
Love the video keep up the great work
Judging from your shop speak during the assembly of the CV Boot we may have another AvE in the making
Wow, flashback! Those inner CV joints look just like the ones on my old Fiat 128! Broke them more than once. Keep an eye on them.
New power socket wrench, nice!
Looking at you make these super specialized repairs makes me wince. So detail oriented and finicky. Is it extreme patience or just that much love for defunct cars?
I can identify with just about all of this. I think I would have pulled that other backing plate to give the impression that's how they were ;-) Best editing on youtube fella. keep it up. 👍
Excellent and highly entertaining as ever.
Just a thought: won't the aluminium deform over time allowing the bearing slop to join the party again?
I'd like to thank this week's sponsor, Eric the car guy for loaning out his crossfade sound effect
Love your humor! I would not be able to leave stuff out myself, I'm also very positive minded, but in such a case I would swear a lot, sit in a corner and then fix it anyway. ;)
I love this channel
I'm so sorry for your troubles! This could have been prevented by what I would call "Engineering Controls", i.e. using a 1-piece bearing with seals on it. Having replaced bearings on both a 1977 Honda Civic twice, and on a 1981 VW Rabbit, I can say that in both of those vehicles, the bearings were both sealed and 1-piece angular contact. If I were you, I'd look up the dimensions for the bearings you have and see if I could cross-reference them to a better bearing. The drawback of the Honda design was that the hub pressed into the bearing thru the brake rotor - so there was no way to properly support the bearing - and pressing the hub out resulted in damaged bearings and possibly warped rotors. The first replacement was for a bad bearing and the second was for a warped rotor. You do need seals to keep the grease in and the dirt/water out. Also be aware that the shape of the CV joint can interfere with things. On the VW Rabbit, the new CV joint on one side was able to contact the bearing housing instead of the bearing - so when the axle nut was tightened, it locked the wheel up. Rather than explaining all this to the parts guy on another trip into town, I made a spacer much like the one you found - this allowed the CV joint and axle nut to clamp only the bearing inner races together. This worked fine until a dope-smoker pulled out in front of me in an intersection and totalled my Rabbit truck. I love your videos, dude! Keep up the good work! You make me forget how frustrating this sort of stuff can be - you make it FUN!
M539 Restoration is a Patreon of you? Wow! Congratulations
Would love to see a compact wood bed Coda pickup conversion. Channel crossover idea?!
After seeing the process, I'm glad I paid a shop to replace my bearings instead of doing it myself. I have no issue with the bolt-on hubs GM used, but I don't have tools for a press-in bearing like that, which my car conveniently uses.
Great video!!!!
Props to the Snap Ring Gods for the assist, also rip dust shield
5:28 the immense effort was probably worth it just for the sounds
Key to repairing a Coda? Own three of them.
Good morning sir.
I wonder what the thought process was for Coda to use unshielded bearings in the first place. Anyway looks like you got the wheel bearing replacement process down to a science.
Pro tip: Cut a small slit in the shield, and you can put it back on without pulling the bearing apart.
The rumble on acceleration could be transmission related. Add some Lucas oil treatment to it and see if it improves or at least changes. CV's usually do not make rumble noises unless they are about to fall off. Then they normally make other fun noises as well.
To pit the missing shield back on, you can press the hub out with a wheel puller pushing on the end of the cv. Make sure you put something under the lower arm to push It up. The cv shaft needs to be as straight as possible. It is not optimal but it works.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Advice from a professional 3/4-asser; cut the shield in half, shove it in, weld it to itself in place. Spray with off-black flat paint.
Some come in two pieces, use one of the spares car to create a two piece one.
Ahh, it's going to be a good Sunday.
Doing maintenance myself, I am 100 percent behind you leaving out the disc shield. That simple but ultimately worthless type of step I miss more often than not.
I had this same issue with my 2000 Toyota Celica with a Corolla transmission. It took a few bearings before I understood the issue, lasting 3 months each!
Great video😃
Just a thought for you... I just watched your school bus series and thought I’d mention for the car hauler, you could get a used rollback and swap the rollback deck and hydraulics and custom fit them to the skoolie.
ah nothin like an Aging Wheels video to go with your morning coffee, other drinks are available
I love your videos