I'll give you a small tip. When you doing something with brake caliper, brake lines, just get some pipe or wood block and stick it between brake pedal and seat. This will create a pressure in the system and when you crack your bleeder open this will prevent you from getting air in the system. It works every time, try it.
It will also stop the reservoir and system from draining if you leave the pipe disconnected or bleed nipple open for too long - if the system drains then you will have hours of fun trying to sort things in the antilock system….. ask me how I know about that…….
I reconditioned both my rears today. About a 2 hour job. New discs and pads too. All inclusive, less than the cost of a cheapish (not the cheapest crap cast stuff ebay special admittedly) single caliper. Actually less than £50.00 very very easy and the old original calipers now look brand new too. Definitely the way to go. Shouldn't need to worry about them again as should outlive the car and certainly the time I'll own it for.
thanks Niamh, it works really well off course i don't know how long it will last but for a guys like me that don't do brakes everyday it should be good for a long time 😉👍👍👍 cheers
amazingly well made videos!!! great shots and comments, tools to use, and you show problems you may run into. etc. I used your videos earlier to change discs and pads on an Octavia. Never done that job ever before. I made it! :). Now I'll use this video to fix sqeeking on my Superb. Sqeeking is actually at higher speeds and wheels get very high temperature. Hope though it's only dirt or rust where pads glide... Thanks a lot!!
Peder Laitamaa thanks mate I appreciate it... cool that you were able to do your own brakes 👍... I just saw your email I never worked on the 4x4 but I would imagine it’s exactly the same parts, 2010 and 2011 they are the same I hope it helps 👍👍👍
Hi Mate, Good Job. I am learning a lot from your videos. A month ago, I did oil and filter change myself after seeing your video on Octavia servicing. Thanks. Last week, I bleed brakes with a pressure bleeder and Vizibleed One man brake bleeder. I did a few mistakes and I am worried about air in the brake circuit. After I finish the work, I did notice hissing noise (near pedal) when I pump the brake pedal when car is off. Brake feel normal and Car is only 4 year old with 72k miles. Mistakes 1. After removing old fluid from the brake reservoir, did not add new brake fluid. Instead, I poured a full 1-litre fluid in pressure bleeder. 2. I did not pressurise the circuit enough. Skoda recommends bleeding brake at 2 bar pressure, whereas I did at 1 bar. 3. Passenger left nipple I opened too much and brake fluid leaked via the gap around the nipple. What could be the issue? is it normal to hear the noise? Do I need to bleed brake fluid completely and re-fill? Please advice. Thanks..
RONY THOMAS nice one mate I’m glad the videos is helping you 👍👍👍 Whoosh sound is normal when pressing the brake pedal, what kind of noise is it? When bleeding the brakes with a pressure bleeder you don’t need the ezybleed, all you need to do is open up the brake nipple until steady fluid flow is coming out and no more bubbles. You can attach a normal pipe to the nipple so everything is nice and clean... Does the brake pedal feels ok or spongy ?
How's she goin'? Nice repair on the brakes. Some hard to get wrenches on some of those parts eh!! The 11 mm wrench with the close end is great for brakes bleeders. Thanks fior posting!!!!
Thanks for this. Helped me a lot putting a new caliper on a Skoda Yeti. Only problems I has was when I came to put the new caliper on, the new one didn't fit! The mounting bolts were wider on the replacement but all sorted now with another caliper from another supplier.
I was hoping you would use the vacuum bleeder, what's the spray you used for checking leaks? last if its not too much trouble which video editor are you using?? Thanks for the video........................
teme jumbo thanks mate, I don’t have a vacuum bleeder I have another bleeder that pressurise the system I’ll show it in another opportunity, regarding leaks I only visually inspect that should be ok ... I use Adobe premier pro to edit the vids cheers 👍👍👍
I just replaced pads after 3 years. Rear left was hard to push and turn back, right one went back in very smoothly. Both calipers were reconditioned from gsf and fitted 3 years ago. Probably new caliper needed again i guess?
Just done my sons 2014 Seat Ibiza Fr for the second time. The issue is that these rear calipers fail with the handbrake system not fully returning to it upper rear position so the piston / pads stays slightly on the discs. A real poor design. These newer calipers now seem to have an assisted spring that the originals didn’t have. Let’s hope I get more than a year out of these now ones.
Did you check your hand brake cable ? were they nice and free ? I've just replaced the left hand side caliper again today because it was seized not moving at all even using a hammer, i checked the hand brake cable and it was seized i think is probably something that i didn't pick up before...' 👍👍👍👍
Cars Exposed No both cables were free it’s the caliper again. I think some are simply cheap or poorly refurbished. This new one has a spring that the others didn’t have so I’m thinking maybe this one will survive longer than 12 months.
Looks much easier than I thought it would be. Deffo doing it myself and not paying someone else to do it. On the disc front what make do you use/would you recommend. I have an octavia
Cool 👍... i bought the discs from TPS they are genuine VW ones, personally I tende to get the cheapest discs but good pads I always go for pagids or Brembos... 👍👍👍
great video. I've replaced my calipers but it still binding, not easy to turn with the handbrake off. Were your calipers genuine? Mine was remanufactured from GSF.
@@CarsExposed yes cleaned it all. Also replaced brake cables. Levers come back to caliper stop but its still difficult to turn the wheel as is in your video
@@CarsExposed i replaced the driver's side cable last year but i didn't change them at the same time. Yes I'm thinking of doing that and check again if it goes all the way down... It couldn't reset its position by pushing it by my hand but still it can be either as you said... Also one thing i noticed is that the handbrake became a lil loose last few months but I don't know if this can be happen in both of those two issues Thanks for your very fast reply...keep up the good work
Perhaps the bracket that holds the cable inside the cabin is a bit wonky, I would suggest a break reset , unhook the cable from the caliper then make sure the caliper pistons are pushed all the way out by pressing the brake pedal , loose the bracket inside the cabin , hook the handbrake cable back up at the caliper then adjust the bracket inside the cabin as needed 👍👍👍
@@CarsExposed the vehicle is a e150 Auris (LeftHandDrive) for some reason they have the inside ebrake cable bracket leaning on the right side(with problem) probably from the factory... Are you sure i could remove the cable from the caliper without releasing it from inside first?
@@CarsExposed I hope it will :) Plus mine has the 3.6 V6 and rumor has it that while this is the most gas-guzzling option (to which I can safely attest) it is at the same time the most reliable gasoline engine ever put in the S2.
I'll give you a small tip. When you doing something with brake caliper, brake lines, just get some pipe or wood block and stick it between brake pedal and seat. This will create a pressure in the system and when you crack your bleeder open this will prevent you from getting air in the system. It works every time, try it.
Kalobos cheers bud I appreciate it 👍👍🍻
It will also stop the reservoir and system from draining if you leave the pipe disconnected or bleed nipple open for too long - if the system drains then you will have hours of fun trying to sort things in the antilock system….. ask me how I know about that…….
I reconditioned both my rears today. About a 2 hour job. New discs and pads too. All inclusive, less than the cost of a cheapish (not the cheapest crap cast stuff ebay special admittedly) single caliper. Actually less than £50.00 very very easy and the old original calipers now look brand new too. Definitely the way to go. Shouldn't need to worry about them again as should outlive the car and certainly the time I'll own it for.
cheers for another video..and no dislikes..you have just won a weeks holiday in Bournemouth, enjoy x
Cheers mate, no dislikes so far but I’m sure they will come 😊😁 it’s ok ... I think I won more the a weeks in Bournemouth 😁🤣🤣🤣👍 cheers
Pretty straight forward job. I'm glad the weather was good to you. See you on the next one!
wyattoneable Thanks Wyatt not to bad of a job, it was a bit windy hence the wind noises but that’s the compromise of working outside 😊cheers bud 👍👍👍
Great job! I have to admit when I took my bleeder out of its box I had my doubts lol great to see it works so well! 👍😂
thanks Niamh, it works really well off course i don't know how long it will last but for a guys like me that don't do brakes everyday it should be good for a long time 😉👍👍👍 cheers
Hi
Do I need disconnect the pipe and the hand brake to change the pads?
Thanks nice video
No you can slip caliper off with all still intact. Just don't put too much pressure on brake hose. Tie it up
amazingly well made videos!!! great shots and comments, tools to use, and you show problems you may run into. etc. I used your videos earlier to change discs and pads on an Octavia. Never done that job ever before. I made it! :). Now I'll use this video to fix sqeeking on my Superb. Sqeeking is actually at higher speeds and wheels get very high temperature. Hope though it's only dirt or rust where pads glide... Thanks a lot!!
Peder Laitamaa thanks mate I appreciate it... cool that you were able to do your own brakes 👍... I just saw your email I never worked on the 4x4 but I would imagine it’s exactly the same parts, 2010 and 2011 they are the same I hope it helps 👍👍👍
Hi Mate,
Good Job. I am learning a lot from your videos. A month ago, I did oil and filter change myself after seeing your video on Octavia servicing. Thanks.
Last week, I bleed brakes with a pressure bleeder and Vizibleed One man brake bleeder. I did a few mistakes and I am worried about air in the brake circuit. After I finish the work, I did notice hissing noise (near pedal) when I pump the brake pedal when car is off. Brake feel normal and Car is only 4 year old with 72k miles.
Mistakes
1. After removing old fluid from the brake reservoir, did not add new brake fluid. Instead, I poured a full 1-litre fluid in pressure bleeder.
2. I did not pressurise the circuit enough. Skoda recommends bleeding brake at 2 bar pressure, whereas I did at 1 bar.
3. Passenger left nipple I opened too much and brake fluid leaked via the gap around the nipple.
What could be the issue? is it normal to hear the noise? Do I need to bleed brake fluid completely and re-fill?
Please advice.
Thanks..
RONY THOMAS nice one mate I’m glad the videos is helping you 👍👍👍
Whoosh sound is normal when pressing the brake pedal, what kind of noise is it?
When bleeding the brakes with a pressure bleeder you don’t need the ezybleed, all you need to do is open up the brake nipple until steady fluid flow is coming out and no more bubbles. You can attach a normal pipe to the nipple so everything is nice and clean...
Does the brake pedal feels ok or spongy ?
How's she goin'? Nice repair on the brakes. Some hard to get wrenches on some of those parts eh!! The 11 mm wrench with the close end is great for brakes bleeders. Thanks fior posting!!!!
Thanks Bud, super difficult to get the wrench around that area, pipes, cables, coil spring and so on always in the way 😊👍👍👍 cheers Mike
Nice job sir. We fix it so it brakes!!
Absolutely 😊, Cheers mate , Cheers mate 👍👍👍
clever 😉
Thanks for this. Helped me a lot putting a new caliper on a Skoda Yeti. Only problems I has was when I came to put the new caliper on, the new one didn't fit! The mounting bolts were wider on the replacement but all sorted now with another caliper from another supplier.
Thanks very much! Well presented and very helpful, well done.
Thank you for great video
Great vid. Just wondering I always thought you had to have the engine on to bleed the brakes. Is this not the case?
Great job but I guess u do forget to change the 2 copper wachers sitting on the banjo bolt all the rest was beautiful and good explanation
I was hoping you would use the vacuum bleeder, what's the spray you used for checking leaks? last if its not too much trouble which video editor are you using?? Thanks for the video........................
teme jumbo thanks mate, I don’t have a vacuum bleeder I have another bleeder that pressurise the system I’ll show it in another opportunity, regarding leaks I only visually inspect that should be ok ... I use Adobe premier pro to edit the vids cheers 👍👍👍
I just replaced pads after 3 years. Rear left was hard to push and turn back, right one went back in very smoothly. Both calipers were reconditioned from gsf and fitted 3 years ago. Probably new caliper needed again i guess?
Top job dude.
Cheers mate 👍👍👍 I appreciate it... Did you get the goodies yet ?
@@CarsExposed yes, thanks again mate
Cam Smith you are welcome 👍
Just done my sons 2014 Seat Ibiza Fr for the second time. The issue is that these rear calipers fail with the handbrake system not fully returning to it upper rear position so the piston / pads stays slightly on the discs. A real poor design. These newer calipers now seem to have an assisted spring that the originals didn’t have. Let’s hope I get more than a year out of these now ones.
Did you check your hand brake cable ? were they nice and free ? I've just replaced the left hand side caliper again today because it was seized not moving at all even using a hammer, i checked the hand brake cable and it was seized i think is probably something that i didn't pick up before...' 👍👍👍👍
Cars Exposed No both cables were free it’s the caliper again. I think some are simply cheap or poorly refurbished. This new one has a spring that the others didn’t have so I’m thinking maybe this one will survive longer than 12 months.
on my octavia 2008 i cannot rewind the caliper. its not seizen because it worked until now. oil cap is open. is there a trick?
would this be the same as a 62 plate Octavia?
Looks much easier than I thought it would be. Deffo doing it myself and not paying someone else to do it. On the disc front what make do you use/would you recommend. I have an octavia
Cool 👍... i bought the discs from TPS they are genuine VW ones, personally I tende to get the cheapest discs but good pads I always go for pagids or Brembos... 👍👍👍
great video. I've replaced my calipers but it still binding, not easy to turn with the handbrake off. Were your calipers genuine? Mine was remanufactured from GSF.
Vilius uk did you clean calliper bracket and slider pins properly ? I got mine from EBay 🥴
@@CarsExposed yes cleaned it all. Also replaced brake cables. Levers come back to caliper stop but its still difficult to turn the wheel as is in your video
@@Wiliuz Did you solved it? I have a same issue. Basically replaced the caliper and it's binding even worse than original one..
What are you doijg to trash the pads so quickly.
I dont drive slow by any means and ive had the same pagid discs and pads on for 35,000 miles
What engine did the vehicle have?, 2 litre tdi common rail?, dpf equipped?
That’s right 👍
@@CarsExposed Righto cheers.
When I take the 11m nut off the pipe starts twisting help
You can use heat to free it up or just replace the pipe they are quite cheap to buy already made up from TPS or Skoda itself 👍👍👍
If my handbrake lever on caliper isn't going all the way down when i release the handbrake is it a stuck caliper or a stuck cable?
It’s hard to say it Could be either ... the best thing to do is to remove the cable and check after that 👍👍👍
@@CarsExposed i replaced the driver's side cable last year but i didn't change them at the same time.
Yes I'm thinking of doing that and check again if it goes all the way down...
It couldn't reset its position by pushing it by my hand but still it can be either as you said...
Also one thing i noticed is that the handbrake became a lil loose last few months but I don't know if this can be happen in both of those two issues
Thanks for your very fast reply...keep up the good work
Perhaps the bracket that holds the cable inside the cabin is a bit wonky, I would suggest a break reset , unhook the cable from the caliper then make sure the caliper pistons are pushed all the way out by pressing the brake pedal , loose the bracket inside the cabin , hook the handbrake cable back up at the caliper then adjust the bracket inside the cabin as needed 👍👍👍
Sorry forgot one thing make sure the bracket inside the cabin is nice and level after it 👍
@@CarsExposed the vehicle is a e150 Auris (LeftHandDrive) for some reason they have the inside ebrake cable bracket leaning on the right side(with problem) probably from the factory...
Are you sure i could remove the cable from the caliper without releasing it from inside first?
Nice job. The shock absorber is gone too...
Thank you sir, most useful :)
Nice job. Cheers.
Cheers pal
nice video i like it how you explain
Cheers 👍👍👍
Thanks man!
Northern Sweden Welding my pleasure buddy 👍👍👍
Good Job! :)
mmiqu thanks mate
Thank✌🏽
400k miles !!
WTF 400.000 miles? Wow... :)
yeap it has covered quite few miles 😂😂👍👍
@@CarsExposed I currently have 147.000km on my Superb so really nothing major to worry about yet. It is a 2013 production.
Tomas Stibal lovely car should last a lot more years without any issues 👍👍👍
@@CarsExposed I hope it will :) Plus mine has the 3.6 V6 and rumor has it that while this is the most gas-guzzling option (to which I can safely attest) it is at the same time the most reliable gasoline engine ever put in the S2.
IT'S NOT BRAKE PADS SOUND, IT'S JUST SIDE SAFETY PLATE SOUND, IN RUNNING SMALL STONE WILL BEND THE PLATE,
Scrap that car:)
🤣🤣🤣🤣 👍