Thanks tom i like the way you put much thought i to every aspect of bracket racing.everything matters so we must think about every single thing and how it can be improved upon.
Tom could youtake me thru the procedure of when you activate the pro stage howfor from the pre stage should i be etc.just got stuff from k n R ..could figure this out in testing this spring but would be super helpful to get a head start by know what others are doing .thanks .B
DO a third gear (or second) burnout if you have enough power, or you can easily roll the sprag in your transmission while shifting. If you HAVE to start your burnout in first gear, lift off the throttle before you shift, let it complete the shift, and then roll back on the throttle. It will be much easier on the sprag. Also, if you're roasting the tires until the white letters on the tires are turning yellowish, that's too much. You're overheating them and wasting them. Another thing, do NOT neutral your transmission at the end of the pass, unless you have a trans with a "clean neutral". If you don't, and you neutral it after the pass while you're still at speed, the drum and/or sun-shell inside the trans can spin up to astronomical speeds and explode from centrifugal force. Pieces can exit through the trans case with HUGE force and possibly through the floor of your car. DON'T take that chance.
Something I've been practising in my racing for years has been this. If the car in front of me has a harder compound tyre than me, or a different brand, I burn through the lights - same as if the track has been cleaned etc. If the car in front of me has a softer compound than me AND that car burns through the lights, I tend to only burn to the lights. This I've found to work great for door cars. This is also why most of my burnouts are through the lights. I've found that I control heat not so much by distance or time, but rather by speed. This is also easier in a door car as you can use brakes to modulate the forward speed during the burnout. So if I need a hot burnout for a cold day, 4th gear and just nail it. Hot day, same distance, 2nd. gear, nail it. Leaves me with good shoulders and fresh hot soft rubber to grab:) I've also found that this method greatly reduces my risk of chirping the tyres. Good video buddy.
Very informative, and enlightening for many, but one thing you didn't mention is 'dry hops' also add un=necessary strain to everything in the drivetrain from the shock of the grab of the contact surface. I especially like the part explaining about past the line and different starting speeds, not many vids explain why a short or past the line hit is suggested and the strategy or reason.
I was told by my engine guy that i shouldn't feather my rpm's during a burnout as the converter doesn't like it...and with the hook noise ...well were fine with that as that's telling us its nice and tacky... but i do take your point in scuffing up the tyre...
The reason door cars don't run a burnout past the beams is because some races it disqualifies you. I try to not get use to it just because it's hard to change your rhythm but if allowed guys will so the leave there own tire patch to hookup on. Especially in no prep.
@@davelowets about three years late lol but still appreciated, got the same tip from one of my Subaru buddies saying the same thing. Was slow as shit but still had a blast
If i may add to Tom's answer ... most people don't realise street tires are made to resist heat ... hotter they get the more they loose traction ... to clean and dry yes for sure...
@@david54106 Yes, I recently read the same thing, that the common street tire actually gets slick when heated too much. And I actually proved this to myself. I had an expensive Avon 3D X/M tire on my motorcycle. It's a multi-compound tire that is designed to give excellent handling in turns AND provide more miles for highway use. I was running (somewhat) consistent 13.10s. Without going into detail, I ruined a fairly new Avon tire and wasn't about to spend a big chunk of money again. So I decided to give a Shinko 003 tire a try - well over $100 less. It's a street legal tire that's primarily made for racing. The first time I took my bike out with this tire I got into the 12s.
Just a light spin just to clean them off is plenty. Years ago, I used to hold my street car until the radials shot chunks, and it didn't hook ANY better than a slight cleaning spin.
I think we have a different perception of a "dry hop". For me and many others, dry hop refers to the roll-out of the burnout box, not a separate dry hop after the burnout.
A true "dry hop" is one that is done after the car stops, in between the end of the burnout box and the lights, and then doing a hit or two before approaching the starting line beams.
Thanks tom i like the way you put much thought i to every aspect of bracket racing.everything matters so we must think about every single thing and how it can be improved upon.
Tom could youtake me thru the procedure of when you activate the pro stage howfor from the pre stage should i be etc.just got stuff from k n R ..could figure this out in testing this spring but would be super helpful to get a head start by know what others are doing .thanks .B
DO a third gear (or second) burnout if you have enough power, or you can easily roll the sprag in your transmission while shifting. If you HAVE to start your burnout in first gear, lift off the throttle before you shift, let it complete the shift, and then roll back on the throttle. It will be much easier on the sprag.
Also, if you're roasting the tires until the white letters on the tires are turning yellowish, that's too much. You're overheating them and wasting them.
Another thing, do NOT neutral your transmission at the end of the pass, unless you have a trans with a "clean neutral".
If you don't, and you neutral it after the pass while you're still at speed, the drum and/or sun-shell inside the trans can spin up to astronomical speeds and explode from centrifugal force. Pieces can exit through the trans case with HUGE force and possibly through the floor of your car. DON'T take that chance.
Something I've been practising in my racing for years has been this.
If the car in front of me has a harder compound tyre than me, or a different brand, I burn through the lights - same as if the track has been cleaned etc. If the car in front of me has a softer compound than me AND that car burns through the lights, I tend to only burn to the lights. This I've found to work great for door cars. This is also why most of my burnouts are through the lights. I've found that I control heat not so much by distance or time, but rather by speed. This is also easier in a door car as you can use brakes to modulate the forward speed during the burnout.
So if I need a hot burnout for a cold day, 4th gear and just nail it. Hot day, same distance, 2nd. gear, nail it. Leaves me with good shoulders and fresh hot soft rubber to grab:) I've also found that this method greatly reduces my risk of chirping the tyres.
Good video buddy.
Very informative, and enlightening for many, but one thing you didn't mention is 'dry hops' also add un=necessary strain to everything in the drivetrain from the shock of the grab of the contact surface.
I especially like the part explaining about past the line and different starting speeds, not many vids explain why a short or past the line hit is suggested and the strategy or reason.
I have watched all your videos .Thanks for the information
Excellent information, Thanks for the strategy tips!
D Plymouth 👍👍👍👍 glad you liked it!
Good job explaining 👍
I was told by my engine guy that i shouldn't feather my rpm's during a burnout as the converter doesn't like it...and with the hook noise ...well were fine with that as that's telling us its nice and tacky... but i do take your point in scuffing up the tyre...
Definetly gave me a different view point on burnout procedure. 👍🏼
Tristian Sholar thanks man! I appreciate the feedback!
Does after the burnout should set the car on the skid mark to keep it run on the warm spot to make good launching ?
Salim Binshagra absolutely! That’s the cleanest, freshest part of the track 👍
The reason door cars don't run a burnout past the beams is because some races it disqualifies you. I try to not get use to it just because it's hard to change your rhythm but if allowed guys will so the leave there own tire patch to hookup on. Especially in no prep.
Yep. With many tracks, going past the beams with a door car is a big no-no.
Thank you for the tips. My dad said that he leaned a lot of burn out tips. Thank you again 👍
Have you ever gotten that optimum burnout and stopped before the beams?
So I haven't seen anything yet, but I'm going for my first time next week in an AWD so, should I just avoid the burnout box and line up?
Yep. Drive around the water and avoid it at all costs. Wait patiently until your opponent is done before you take the pre-stage beam.
@@davelowets about three years late lol but still appreciated, got the same tip from one of my Subaru buddies saying the same thing. Was slow as shit but still had a blast
How much of this applies to street tires? Is a burnout even necessary with street tires?
dfhowes I would say yes, just to make sure they are clean
If i may add to Tom's answer ... most people don't realise street tires are made to resist heat ... hotter they get the more they loose traction ... to clean and dry yes for sure...
@@david54106 Yes, I recently read the same thing, that the common street tire actually gets slick when heated too much.
And I actually proved this to myself. I had an expensive Avon 3D X/M tire on my motorcycle. It's a multi-compound tire that is designed to give excellent handling in turns AND provide more miles for highway use. I was running (somewhat) consistent 13.10s.
Without going into detail, I ruined a fairly new Avon tire and wasn't about to spend a big chunk of money again. So I decided to give a Shinko 003 tire a try - well over $100 less. It's a street legal tire that's primarily made for racing. The first time I took my bike out with this tire I got into the 12s.
Just a light spin just to clean them off is plenty.
Years ago, I used to hold my street car until the radials shot chunks, and it didn't hook ANY better than a slight cleaning spin.
Feathering off the throttle will help take stress off your valve train.
I meant learned😬
Tatym Slykhuis haha. I got it 😁😁
Burnouts
I think we have a different perception of a "dry hop". For me and many others, dry hop refers to the roll-out of the burnout box, not a separate dry hop after the burnout.
A true "dry hop" is one that is done after the car stops, in between the end of the burnout box and the lights, and then doing a hit or two before approaching the starting line beams.