Jonathan Siegrist Cruises Up Adam Ondra's Classic Italian 9a+
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
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On his recent rip to to Italy, US climber Jonathan Siegrist had his sights set on two of the hardest routes in the country. First up was the Stefano Ghisolfi's Lapsus, 9b, and secondly was the classic Adam Ondra route, Goldrake, a 9a+ in Cornalba. Check out the film that follows the latter part of his trip...
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Jonathan Siegrist | Goldrake 9a+
Cornalba is basically my home crag. I've climbed there for almost 8 years and i'd like to talk a little bit about this beautiful place.
Here in Italy it is known as the hardest, most technical and most unforgiving crag near Milan and basically in the whole region of Lombardy. Some of the routes there are truly legendary like some 8as, for example Apache 8a and Peter Pan 8a+, only ever onsighted by Ondra in 2010, and others 8b/c which have 1 or 2 repetitions in 20 years... I know some people that has done 7c in other crags but are trying and failing on some 7a+ in Cornalba, the grades are really hard and old school, and there's a funny story of why is that so (more on that later).
The best gift of this video, apart from the wonderful footage, (in my opinion the best footage of Goldrake and Cornalba climbing ever made by far 👌) is that Jonathan mentions the original bolter and founder of this crag Bruno "Camòs" Tassi, he was one of the best italian climers in the 80's and he was a true artist and visionary, he pioneered sport climbing in Italy among others few legends, he died in 2007 in a car accident, different pros have climbed (and struggled) on a lot of his routes, Goldrake included, and never mentioned him once, so i'm really happy that he finally got some recognition from an international pro like Siegrist.
Many years ago Bruno was trying on of the Italy's first 8as bolted by him in Cornalba and another legendary strong climber Manolo came to try it with him, Bruno was really exited about it but in the end Manolo failed to climb this route, and beside the failure, maybe for pride or whatever reason, he proposed 7c when both of them knew that it was at least 8a for sure, Bruno was so angry, but yet had so much respect for Manolo, *that he choose to downgrade every single other route in the crag!* Some time later Peter Pan was redpointed by him and even later overgraded 8a+ but all the other routes were never grade-fixed again, that is why the grades here are so hard, and a lot of people compalin about them, but we locals laugh about it and respect and love that tradition, even if we are the first to struggle a lot on those routes!
Anyway if any of you have the chance to pass by Bergamo or Milan, we welcome you to come and climb on this fantastic and historic crag, to test your slab skills and finger strength 💪! Congrats to Jonathan for your performance 💪💪 (and by the way, i saw him climb a famous 7a and he immediately said that it was a very hard one! And that put a very big smile on my face 🤣) and thank you EpicTV for the wonderful footage and quality, and simply for advising my home crag which i love a lot 😍🙇♂️!
@danix thank you for sharing! I love working on these videos with Jonathan because he also is very interested in the history of areas and routes, it adds so much to the richness of climbing and is overlooked by many. Cheers!
@@nate_liles Are you the camera man and operator on this video? Contratulations dude, your work it's just amazing, as i said the footage is one of the best i saw in recent months climbingwise, thank *YOU* man!
P.S.
If you guys are interested i can also tell another funny story of why this route, the hardest route in Cornalba and one of the hardest in Italy, is called "Goldrake"... the _simple_ reason is that Bruno had a crazy drunk friend that was getting call like that by everybody and he dedicated the route to him, BUT the really funny story is why everybody called him like that, and it's because one time this guy was at a ski station and he was so drunk that he climbed on top of a cabin, and the roof was covered in snow, in front of a big crown of people, he raised his arms over his head and sreamed *"I AM GOLDRAKE"* he slept and fell off the cabin on a pile of snow! 🤣🤣🤣 A lot of people even here don't know this story and see the name "Goldrake" like a legendary thing because they rightly associate it with the route, but the truth is that was an homage to this crazy drunk guy that fell from a cabin.
If you can let Jonathan know how much i apprecciate this video and maybe tell him my storyes i'd really love it! Thank you again man and congrats for the video, and the great work! I'm sharing it with all of my friends! 💪👋
@@Daniele.Rossini Legendary story! I love to hear how route names come to be. Marco Zanone filmed this one, and I edited it. Will be sure to tell Jonathan the story! Cheers!
@@nate_liles Oh it was Marco the cameraman! I know his works too, i saw a lot of it over the years, grat filmmaker! But you are a great editor as well, i just rewatched this video for the 3th time and i can't stop smiling and getting hyped! The editing, the cuts and the music it's just too much on point 👌.
Cheers to you guys 🍻!
I loved reading this! Thank you so much man!! And yeah the routes there are crazy hard...
The slowhand of climbers. Thanks Jonathan, great style of climbing.
Imagine being so strong and have so much power endurance than a 9a+ is like "yeah chill" haahha
Thank you Frank! Stoked you liked it
A perfect way to phrase J Star style Frank. Super precise climbing, a pleasure to watch 👍
This is insane, Jonathan!
Jonathan Siegrest is in the top 5 of favorite climbers. Thankyou for another great video.
3:43 The rope casually going out of the gri gri cause the route length had me dying! 🤣🙈
Yikes kinda scary
I hope there was an end-knot in the rope and she just undid it before the shot. Lack of end knot is one of the most common causes of outdoor climbing injuries.
OMG! I noticed the same thing 🤣 was about to post
@@Mike-oz4cv don’t worry. There was a knot. Everyone calm down. Lol. There was just enough rope to get him to the last 5ft and then he had to down climb some 5.0 terrain.
Beautiful "classic" footwork - it's a real pleasure watching you climb, Bro.
Thank you so much man
Love seeing a video of Jonathan. He's by far one of the best humans I've ever had the good fortune to climb with.
Siegrist has always been a beast yet he also always falls off my radar. He's humble and low key. He's not out their spraying or on them darn social medias, I'm guessing.
Amazing route, great moves and Siegrist as always an example of artistic and technical climbing. Cool!
just limitless endurance-- a pleasure to watch
Why does this guy not get more exposure? If that's his choice, fine of course, but if it's a sponsor's or media decision, they're morons. Beautiful climbing, so elegant and weightless, a true inspiration in the line of Edlinger. This is what climbing is about. Congratulations and thanks for sharing.
Cornalba è uno spettacolo!
What a calm and precise climb! As always 😉
Grande Camos, già avanti troppi anni fa❤️
great!
Beautiful!
I always wonder how they capture such good audio during the drone sequences. I know that there must be a mic somewhere, but where? Sick sends Jonathan!
Honestly I was wondering that too! no mic...
Hey Miguel. I'm the filmmaker for this video and actually It's "easier" than you expect. No mic with drone of course because it's very loud so the audio wouldn't be so clean. In this case Nate, the editor, just recreate the sound for the drone shots,the breaths, the clipping and so on.. to make whole sequence more realistic.
it's a meticulous work but it's worth it!
@@indiamonatofilms Thanks for replying Marco! It really does make a difference in immersing the viewer. Thanks guys! Ciao!
I wonder how many tries it took him. From the looks he was still tweaking the moves the entire way up. Beautiful route, great climber
It took me 4 days, but I can't remember the exact number of tries. Usually on a route this hard (especially one so hard on the skin) I can only try 2 or maybe 3 times a day if I am lucky! thank you
Oh fuck yeah
Beautiful, wonderful, calm, thanks a lot ;-) Jonathan
🙌
All that and no screaming or grunting! Bravo! Well done J-Star.
Nice!
WoW its beatifull
no bad conditions for this guy I guess
Prime conditions
Whats wrong with the color grading and lack of contrast? Its very hard to watch.
It's called "fog".
@@masterpropper2485 thanks that's right :D
"There's not much information about hard routes in Italy" Dude. Stefano has a UA-cam Channel about just that. Maybe ask the best Sport Climber in Italy would be a good start to research?
I think what Jonathan meant is that people in America are blissfully unaware of hard routes in Italy. Whereas you ask them about Spain, and Americans can immediately name 10 hard routes. (Also he talked to Stefano, and many other Italian climbers/locals) 🤷🏼♀️
Sometimes it seems people are actually looking for reasons to feel offended - or to be smarty-pants ;)
Just like Shaina said, for climbers in the US or other faraway countries, Italy is just not as much on the radar regarding hard routes compared to Spain or France. Simple as that.
Climbing is really awesome, music is awful and useless...
« There’s not much information about hard routes in Italy »
Pick up your phone ! Call the Italian stars!