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Adam Ondra #60: Frankenjura / Becoming 9a+
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- Опубліковано 5 кві 2020
- ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA
Tiny crimps, small two-finger pockets, and hard moves are very frequent in Frankenjura, Germany. Check out my tries from autumn 2019 in one of the hardest testpieces - Becoming 9a+ first ascended by Markus Bock. The next episode is out on my UA-cam channel, including my commentary.
Credits:
Story by
ADAM ONDRA
Directed by
LACO KORBEL
Camera
PAVEL KLEMENT
VOJTĚCH LIČKO
Archive Footage
PETR PAVLÍČEK
Archive Stills
ROLF BITTNER (wikipedia.org / CC BY-SA 3.0)
Edited by
ADAM LIGOCKI
Production
JAKUB PÍNA
Executive Producer
PAVEL BLAŽEK
Subs by
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
© 2020 AO Production s.r.o.
#rockclimbing #frankenjura
"and this time its going to be about rock climbing," ah yes, an interesting change of pace
right. I was getting bored seeing him climbing rock. Good thing this video is about rock climbing instead
To be fair, there is a strong emphasis on plastic climbing in a lot of these videos, given that it's about technically about preparing for an indoor comp.
Just sayin' ;-)
this one shook me I swear
Atlas Bailly
That’s like a chef saying, “And this time it’s going to be about cooking.” I guess he could really surprise us and be like, “This time it’ll be about bowling.”
I see how this would sound funny to non-climbers.
The move by move commentary was great. Really brings the experience to life.
Unreal degree of difficulty. Great to hear someone think through it logically when most of us would just say it's impossible
YEs more of this please! :D
Good eh
Will always be eh special breed.
Thank God,no,narrator annoying troupe
Voice over climbing videos with the climbers mental process are my favorites.. and you are the best at it. I wish more would emulate this style.
As someone who's only been climbing for about two years and barely able to do a 6b occasionally, it's very refreshing to see a video by someone like Adam Ondra that ends with him /not/ being able to send a route. Pretty much all the climbing videos are like ‘Yeah it was really difficult and I had to try a lot and I was worried I wouldn't be able to do it, but in the end, against all odds, I did it’. The videos are always, all in all, a success story. So it's nice to see a pro climber say ‘I tried it, it didn't work out, that's okay. Maybe some other time’.
(Of course, I know that Adam has done much harder things than this 9a+ and would definitely be able to do it if he tried some more, but still)
Adam is such a beast, climbing action directe at 15!! absolutely mental
In that time he was climbing for 12 years
Adam climbed it at 15 and didn’t make it in this session. Has he peaked or was this an off day?
David Martin This is a completely different route. Also I‘m sure he didn‘t climb Action Direct in one day back when he was 15.
It’s sooo impressive how you made a second attempt with thoughtful improvements instead of focusing on how difficult the route ended up being. Inspirational stuff!
This was awesome.
Woah, crazy seeing you here! I used to watch you way back when, Prop Hunt w/ Nanners and Max, etc. Hope you're doing well!
Holyshit Sark was here!
sark wth are you doing here
Who comes here and gives a thumbs down? Best boulderer in the world, great camera angles, and authentic commentary. Did your search for hello kitty accidently bring you here? Anyway, Adam, I'm not even a real climber and never was. I began indoor climbing at the age of 37 and did it until COVID shut our gyms down. I don't think I'll ever return to a gym but climbing is easily the best exercise I've ever done. I'm considering doing some traversing around the base of larger tree trunks. We'll see how that goes. To finish this rant, I've always enjoyed your videos. Maj sa dobre, a nech sa ti dari.
I really really love this format! We need this to come back every now and then even when this crisis is over!
till have idiots that believe in this bullshit the crisis will never end up...wake up guys.......
@@snirzofirnisio7949 really nobody wants to argue about that shit under a climbing video so quit your bs
These videos with commentary I enjoy the most. Excellent, thanks!
Tohle s tím komentářem mě fakt baví. Super, díky!
I love how Adam says “relatively” and pretty much any other word over 3 syllables
Well he has to add it when he talks about how good a hold is. His "good" holds are most people's nightmares.
"Decent rest"
Looks at hold: slopey crimp on an overhang
Definitely
I loved the voiceover discussion from Adam that walked through his thoughts and experience during the climb. Phenomenal production quality. Phenomenal athlete. What a privilege to be able to see something at this level at home on the couch!
Shout out to the editor of this film for not having too loud music this episode !! :D My ears thank you :)
Love the videos that actually show climbing! One of the best episodes so far. Keep up the good work and stay safe!
We were warned back in 2006, corona: 9a+ 1:42
Thought exactly the same 🤔
Adam could have made a Corona Video and missed the opportunity?
What are the damn odds... He selected this video on purpose 🤔🤔
Shit, man! Can't believe he missed the chance! >:(
Actually! Adam climbed Corona 9a+ (1:42) in 2009. Found an old article saying things like "Adam & Corona as seen through the lens of Vojtech Vrzba
" or "As Adam had promised on Saturday, he returned to Corona for a photo session." :D
I love how this video shows the work and effort that goes into something like this, and that despite that, even the best in world doesn't always succeed. It's all about how you react and come back to a disappointment like this. The best in the world have failed at things more than most people, but they come back more determined to overcome the next challenge.
Your mindset is so inspiring ! Always giving your best with the smile. You truly are a great man
Thx for the video Adam. Nice anlysis and comments. That s good to see forest, rocks, nature and nice climbing by this times.
This is an awesome video in itself but it is also awesome of Adam to choose to show his failed attempts. I think the lesson is that if you want to improve your climbing you shouldn't be afraid to try routes that are too difficult, even outside.
Thanks so much Adam! It's really cool to have your commentary give insight into what is happening internally as you climb.
Thanks again for helping to keep the psyche high during a very frustrating time - now, to the yoga mat and hangboard!
comment on flow was really interesting to hear, seems like Adam is really analytical prior to climbing, then tries to set himself free when he actually climbs
I think this was my favorite episode yet. Great footage and the insight provided in the commentary was terrific. Thanks Adam!
I really liked how much more calmer Adam was when accepted unnecessary failure. I see a lot of mental self-work that has been done recently. My kudos, Adam!
1:42 that Corona reference it just follows you where ever you go
you just see what you want to see. Its just the latin word for crown and used for a million of things (as well as the circular, crownlike shaped corona virus)
@@lyssalud6781 yeah "corona" is aktually a cool word and now it's fucked up and everybody things about the virus. It was a nice girls name but that changed now. 😅
@@sokol7215 go away corona, nobody want you
Corona with lime
I live in Norco...short for North Corona
So good to see climbers still interested in climbing rock after watching speed climbing, Parkour across plastic, etc. Thanks for this.
Thank you Adam. I will be more relaxed with myself when I don't send a rote that I have sent in the past, we can always come back and try again. I learn a lot from your videos, you inspire me. Thx.
The strength in those fingers must be off the charts! Really fascinating watching this guy.
Oh, thank you so much Adam!! I'm really glad you could keep on uploading videos every week. Your story is a great inspiration for me.
I find Adam's climbing so inspiring. I hope to reach a level where I'm factoring in whether or not I've actually broken the skin on a specific finger. I remind myself frequently that it's special to live in an age where we are privy to such deep insight into what is going on in the mind of such a cutting edge climber. I get that he is blessed to be able to climb for a living, but I'd be lying if i didn't dream that I could take his place. Keep pushing the envelope Adam! I wish I was in your shoes! I'd trade anything to be in your position. In my opinion you are the greatest of a generation, and many would trade almost anything to be you. The pressure must be immense, but you've handled it with grace. I wish you all the best.
Very honest video 👌 Nice to see a video without a send, shows that even the pro climbers don't top out every climb!
Adam you are such a beautiful human with a beautiful spirit. Thank you for sharing, especially the climbs you didn’t finish. I’m very encouraged and blessed by the videos and by your generous spirit, especially now in lockdown! 💙🙏🏾
This edit was superb! I guess the cameramen/editors also have more time available 🤣👌. Really nice episode!! I love your comments on routes 🙌 we really appreciate you share all those thoughts with us
I like how both camera man thought about dressing in dark so that they don’t catch the eye from each other’s perspective.
I didn't see any camera men.
floijd at 8:34 and 8:50 they come into view
nigdy się nie wspinałem i pewnie już nigdy nie będę, ale ten film jest świetny - co za gość!
Adam, you have a very good commentary. Great explanation of technique and how you feel, mentally and physically. Really good to watch you and listen and learn. Thanks x
Before watching your video's i always have to make sure I have a hand towel because just watching makes my hands sweat.
One of the most honest and responsible vids i've ever seen on yt. No1: even rock climbers are not that careless and value failure as much as success. No2: even these guys whose guts are driven by the adrenaline of the climb, demonstrate the priorities during these times. Big bravo.
I love to climb also. Mr. ADAM is one of my inspiration interms of rock climbing. God Bless boss
I love how the best hold is "a good crimp"
The commentary really helps for people like me who are new to climbing, thanks
Fantastic insight into the climber's mind. I'm a trail runner and we also have those days where you feel in the right zone mentally but somehow it doesn't come together. As you say, there's always the next time... Stay well and cheers from the UK
I struggle to climb the stairs in my home, but this was deeply enjoyable to watch. As someone with 0 experience in this sport / hobby / whatever it is, I really enjoyed this video!
"...and wait couple of weeks until this craziness is over" - meanwhile a year later we've learned that we will need to live with this craziness...
Incredible film! Really captured the power demands of these sick Frankenstein frankenjura testpieces! Such a trip to see Ondra climb and his descriptive game is so on point to really bring these climbs to us mortals! More please🤗🤗💪
Very cool video. That cameraman filming while hanging there, wow! That drone shot at the end was awesome. And oww your fingers :(
Really great to see some of the failures documented as well! And your process of going through it
Love these uncut move by move commentaries! Keeps the stoke up
Thanks for the commentary! Such an interesting video!
Beautiful sequence
LAY over Amazing body IN motions
I really enjoyed the in depth look and step by step walk through for this climb, very fun and always interesting listening to how you are approaching the climbs, and how you feel during it! Thanks for helping me feel like im on the rock now too!
i never climbed and im still feel like i was there trying with him. thats a good charisma great vid!
I was IN IT with you ! Incredible how you explain with details and passion. Really really nice share ! I really wish you’ll pass through next time !
A great video. I could watch these for days. Thank you Ondra team 🙏
Short, Crimpy & Tricky - hey it's Adam!
I really enjoy this format. I hope we get to watch the move-by-move for more of your hard climbs!!
This "Rock climbing commentary" is incredible!
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
incredible power. And I like the tech of video, incl. commentary. I appreciate you are showing fuck up story
Jsi machr Adame!! Jen tak dál.
This was really great commentary!! Nice to hear your process and your thoughts you had at the time, explaininig a bit what did not work out.
Awesome video. Love the full ascents with commentary
Saw a couple of crap looking wide things at 1.09 I'd better sandbag Tom
Wide Boyz lol
I was thinking exactly the same. I should go there some day.
Wide Boyz said a swear word!
Love the narration, makes the whole climb much easier to understand and more dramatic too!
so good with the commentary, love it!!
Living the life. Really love these detailed videos.
Good one Adam... it's the first time i watch u fell and never shout... :)
Loving these climbs with the Commentary, really interesting to watch and get a real idea of what you're dealing with. I find it hugely inspiring too.
Adam je neskutečný borec
Very Nice vidéo , to se you struggling and failling also like it happens to all of us ...👍👍
Next time ....
*An important fact about Wolfgang Gullich;before he started pushing the top of the grading scale, before he started establishing the hardest routes in the World, Wolfgang REPEATED, making the second or third ascent, of ALL THE TEST-PIECES through out the world. Grand Illusions, Cosmic Debris, MastersEdge, Pinechebule, Davy Jones Locker, Acid Crack, Equinox, etc , etc. From about 1978-1983 Wolfgang had repeated all the World had to offer. The significance of this journey seems lost today*
Mann this makes me miss climbing even more at the moment.. inspiring ad 💪
I really enjoyed how you comment on your thought processes and how much you reflect on what went well and where you could still improve. Please give us more insight in your mental process in the future
Amazing, very best climber of the world,Adám ondra eres el mejor de la historia de la escalada.
Adame držím si palce a sem tvůj fanoušek 🥰. Taky moc ráda lezu miluju lezení.
Loved it Adam! Commentary videos are very insightful and I appreciate you sharing a failure with us - we've all been there :)
I admire you a lot Adam Ondra
Thanks for keeping the production somehow alive. I remember you from climbing many years ago (10+) at a small boulder wall of VUT Brno, it is amazing how much you progressed.
i love youre videos! step by step commentary and the camera movment are nice!
Really inspirational. Thank you.
Looking forward to the collab with magnus 😊 love to see your videos even though I don't even climbed myself in my life 😂
Very good commentary! It was really interesting to watch.
If you want to say something beneficial @adamondra, you can talk about what were you doing as a breathing method at 7:28
I think he is doing pranayamas, a yogi technique. Pranayamas have diferent variations and i think that is one of them. If you type pranaymas in you tube you can learn more. It's powerfull stuff.
Looks like he's doing kapalabhati with alternating nostrils.
Lol
crazy line and wonderful narration. thanks for sharing.
You are the best climber my idol
I see now how you focus yourself. Very impressive of you
great video, one of the best on Adams channel
One of the best episodes!
thanks for entertaining us through these times!:)
Most beautiful sht I ever seen
Thank for not being generic
Show true feelings with REWARD...you won
Thank you Adam, great fun .
i don't even climb. you make it really immersive and fun to watch.
Amazing route on that little outcrop emerging from the thick forest. You had that , made it look easy.
Thanks, very humble video.
Gota love ondra ! Content is awsom! Hope to se you more video's abouth recovery and training etc, might be a great time right now
Thanks for these vids, great work!
Yeah, climbing is a Great Game! The Greatest of all, a Play of Chess on Rock 🧠
Great insight, thanks Adam.
I really enjoy this format! More please!
Hey Adam! Do you think you could do a video on training at home if you don't have any equipment? What to do to keep your finger strength up and everything else? It would be much appreciated. Thanks again from Toronto, Canada :)
TheHammm yes please, that would be amazing!
Adam climbed Corona 9a+ (1:42) in 2009. Found an old article saying things like "Adam & Corona as seen through the lens of Vojtech Vrzba
" or "As Adam had promised on Saturday, he returned to Corona for a photo session." :D
Go go Adam!!
u're very inspiring, good dude...