What he pointed out is a full tang, a through tang is a tang usually found in forged blades where you have your handle material wrap all the way around the tang and only the end protudes at the back, usually afterwards peened over an endcap to give it more strength. The so called "stick tang" is what is commonly referred to as a hidden tang, as it is completely hidden inside the handle material. There are no real so called "bad steels" if your steel is hardenable. If you do the proper heat treat, for which there are always readily available charts by the manufacturer, the choice of steel is way less important then the actual execution of the heat treat. Of course the carbon content has to be high enough for hardening but not too high to make it prone to chipping of fracturing, usually everything from 0.6 to 1.2 % carbon (1.2 being mostly the max. amount in modern steels) is fine. Added parts of chromium, tungsten, manganese, vanadium etc. which is the most commen ones in modern stainless steel can give steel a certain set of properties giving it more use in one field or the other but generally steels nowadays is so good, even if you pick the "wrong" steel for the application, if you get your heat treatment right, you are generally dealing with a good tool.
Really ?? Not only doesn't know the correct terms for a full tang and a hidden tang but confuses edge geometry with main bevel. Edge geometry has nothing to do with main bevel at all, other than on a Scandi grind. Damascus is NOT a steel. You could make damascus from bean cans and nails but it would be no good for blades. Damascus is simply a welded blend of 2 or more steels to produce a pattern when etched. It leads to inconsistent edges due to different steels being present, each steel requiring a different heat treatment for optimum performance. The only way around this is to san-mai the blade with a decent bit of blade steel in the centre.
What he pointed out is a full tang, a through tang is a tang usually found in forged blades where you have your handle material wrap all the way around the tang and only the end protudes at the back, usually afterwards peened over an endcap to give it more strength.
The so called "stick tang" is what is commonly referred to as a hidden tang, as it is completely hidden inside the handle material.
There are no real so called "bad steels" if your steel is hardenable. If you do the proper heat treat, for which there are always readily available charts by the manufacturer, the choice of steel is way less important then the actual execution of the heat treat. Of course the carbon content has to be high enough for hardening but not too high to make it prone to chipping of fracturing, usually everything from 0.6 to 1.2 % carbon (1.2 being mostly the max. amount in modern steels) is fine.
Added parts of chromium, tungsten, manganese, vanadium etc. which is the most commen ones in modern stainless steel can give steel a certain set of properties giving it more use in one field or the other but generally steels nowadays is so good, even if you pick the "wrong" steel for the application, if you get your heat treatment right, you are generally dealing with a good tool.
Excellent advice thanks
Scandi is my favourite
Cai's workshops look great!!
The Brian Cox of knives.
😁
Umm... That's not what through tang means.
Get Sandy Jack of Jacklore Knives on.
Really ?? Not only doesn't know the correct terms for a full tang and a hidden tang but confuses edge geometry with main bevel. Edge geometry has nothing to do with main bevel at all, other than on a Scandi grind.
Damascus is NOT a steel. You could make damascus from bean cans and nails but it would be no good for blades. Damascus is simply a welded blend of 2 or more steels to produce a pattern when etched. It leads to inconsistent edges due to different steels being present, each steel requiring a different heat treatment for optimum performance. The only way around this is to san-mai the blade with a decent bit of blade steel in the centre.
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