The video helped a lot - I have a K 7 GSXR 1000 with a Yoshi Slip-on. I removed the relevant wire on the ECU in order to disable the set valve. It did seem to make a noticeable difference to the mid-range but that could have been me trying to justify the effort ;-). There did seem to be a significant reduction in the back-firing from the exhaust as commented on in this video and I suspect it makes the exhaust sound sweeter. Reading more posts on this topic there appears to be two trains of thought regarding the complete removal of the servo controller for the SET valve. One train of thought, as expressed in this video is that it isn't worth the effort as the weight saving isn't significant. However another train of thought is that the set valve does not remain in the fully open position when it goes through it's cycle - you will see that when it operates it firstly moves to the fully closed position. It then returns to the fully open position and then - and here's the interesting part - it then moves slightly away from the open position. This means that when you disable the valve by cutting the relevant wire on the ECU, it is not actually fully open. (I guess, from what I saw, that it is about 90% open) It was for this reason that I decided to disconnect the servo cables. Keep in mind that the valve is spring loaded to remain in the open position if the cables are disconnected. I then decided to remove the servo and cables to clean up the installation. It really is simple - remove the side fairing and front seat, unscrew two bolts at the servo to remove it from the mounting bracket (leave the mounting bracket in place as there is another device also housed on that bracket) disconnect the two electrical connectors from the servo. Disconnect the cables from the Set Valve and pull the whole system out. It takes less than 30 minutes. I am no expert and I am not sure as to whether the slightly closed valve restricts the exhaust gas in any way - there is no information available regarding this on the relevant forums. I am also unsure if removing the SET valve entirely (some people go to the lengths of drilling the butterfly disc out) make any appreciable difference. I have looked at the dyno comparison charts of the stock K7 exhaust performance vs a full Yoshi system and there is very little performance gain between the two through out the entire range so I suspect that the SET valve removal will not make a significant difference. I would love feedback as to whether there are any reasons why one should NOT to perform the disabling of the SET valve from a reliability or performance point of view?
The pair valve is the only mechanical emissions devise on the 07/08 gsxr1000. it diverts clean air up stream of the cat to increase reduction. The reason you bike came with two huge 15 pound cans on it isnt because suzuki wants there bike to be heavy and ugly?no, it was need to silence that poping. The set valve is just there to reduce noise decibel level to comply with some state laws.
This have nothing to do with emissions, afterburn (always mistakenly called backfire), noise reduction noise or mid range. The exhaust control system (EXCS) is designed to give perfect back pressure at all RPMs but it most noticeable and at low RPM range. Disabling this makes you lose your low end torque. I found that my used bike had it disabled, enabled it and got some torque gains. Disabling is not recommended unless you are putting in a full exhaust system.
hey so I have a 07 and I have an FI light on. The exhaust was changed before I changed the bike and it was a full exhaust that was installed do you recommend disabling it?
Just to confirm it’s the number 5 wire on the black plug? In the owner manual is called the excva position sensor (mps) this is the one you want to disconnect not the power excva one?
I have a 2009 gsxr600, and I pulled the black wire, with a white line and green dots from the black plug and now I’m doubting if I pulled the right one. Someone let me know please!
Putting on an aftermarket exhaust sets off the F1 code and for a k6, which is what I have, the dealer code is c46 which is the set valve. I believe it's wire 30 you pull out and it should get rid of the F1 code it throws at you. It's just one of those things where no one likes driving around with a check engine light when they know nothing is wrong with it. So needless to say if you get this code just pull that wire and it'll go away.
will this be the same for the k9 600 yes? I'm away to remove my cat and add a k6 k7 shorty exhaust but I really want to disable that valve while I'm at it.
Jeasy UA-cam done mines last weekend worked perfect thanks. although I would say your better having exhaust off so you can see exactly when to turn the bike off for the valve being fully open.
I have a K8 750 myself still fully stock... Also about the cut of the cat and fix an olson performance linkpipe in between there... Since I'm going for a straight pipe at the end of this year after I've done the cat delete, it might be good to have atleast some back pressure from the valve still in there. Not sure yet. Not really into getting a PowerC - with my k7 600 I also had a straight pipe wthout a powerC, worked great for years, perhaps that was the valve still giving sufficient back pressure for it not to run too lean.
Jeasy UA-cam yeh well I'm actually thinking about reconnecting the wire for the valve this weekend because my bike is a bit spluttery low revs in first gear with the the valve disabled and no cat. maybe the valve working will help with back pressure I'm not wanting to get a pc or ecu flash either
Exactly, my personal goal is just to gain some sound and drop weight. I couldn't care less about 2 hp's lost, or gained for that matter. Goodluck with it - still got the stock exhaust?
The video helped a lot - I have a K 7 GSXR 1000 with a Yoshi Slip-on. I removed the relevant wire on the ECU in order to disable the set valve. It did seem to make a noticeable difference to the mid-range but that could have been me trying to justify the effort ;-). There did seem to be a significant reduction in the back-firing from the exhaust as commented on in this video and I suspect it makes the exhaust sound sweeter.
Reading more posts on this topic there appears to be two trains of thought regarding the complete removal of the servo controller for the SET valve. One train of thought, as expressed in this video is that it isn't worth the effort as the weight saving isn't significant. However another train of thought is that the set valve does not remain in the fully open position when it goes through it's cycle - you will see that when it operates it firstly moves to the fully closed position. It then returns to the fully open position and then - and here's the interesting part - it then moves slightly away from the open position. This means that when you disable the valve by cutting the relevant wire on the ECU, it is not actually fully open. (I guess, from what I saw, that it is about 90% open)
It was for this reason that I decided to disconnect the servo cables. Keep in mind that the valve is spring loaded to remain in the open position if the cables are disconnected. I then decided to remove the servo and cables to clean up the installation. It really is simple - remove the side fairing and front seat, unscrew two bolts at the servo to remove it from the mounting bracket (leave the mounting bracket in place as there is another device also housed on that bracket) disconnect the two electrical connectors from the servo. Disconnect the cables from the Set Valve and pull the whole system out. It takes less than 30 minutes.
I am no expert and I am not sure as to whether the slightly closed valve restricts the exhaust gas in any way - there is no information available regarding this on the relevant forums. I am also unsure if removing the SET valve entirely (some people go to the lengths of drilling the butterfly disc out) make any appreciable difference. I have looked at the dyno comparison charts of the stock K7 exhaust performance vs a full Yoshi system and there is very little performance gain between the two through out the entire range so I suspect that the SET valve removal will not make a significant difference.
I would love feedback as to whether there are any reasons why one should NOT to perform the disabling of the SET valve from a reliability or performance point of view?
Awesome video! Saved me a lot of time! Got rid of C46. Thanks
The pair valve is the only mechanical emissions devise on the 07/08 gsxr1000. it diverts clean air up stream of the cat to increase reduction. The reason you bike came with two huge 15 pound cans on it isnt because suzuki wants there bike to be heavy and ugly?no, it was need to silence that poping. The set valve is just there to reduce noise decibel level to comply with some state laws.
This have nothing to do with emissions, afterburn (always mistakenly called backfire), noise reduction noise or mid range. The exhaust control system (EXCS) is designed to give perfect back pressure at all RPMs but it most noticeable and at low RPM range. Disabling this makes you lose your low end torque. I found that my used bike had it disabled, enabled it and got some torque gains. Disabling is not recommended unless you are putting in a full exhaust system.
hey so I have a 07 and I have an FI light on. The exhaust was changed before I changed the bike and it was a full exhaust that was installed do you recommend disabling it?
Just to confirm it’s the number 5 wire on the black plug? In the owner manual is called the excva position sensor (mps) this is the one you want to disconnect not the power excva one?
I need to know this too. I just pulled the black wire with a white stripe and green dots on my 2009 gsxr600. Im doubting if I did it right
When you buy a yoshi trs slip on can on you get a instruction sheet telling you to do this so if youshimura tell you to do this it's ok to do it
I have a 2009 gsxr600, and I pulled the black wire, with a white line and green dots from the black plug and now I’m doubting if I pulled the right one. Someone let me know please!
The pair valve causes the poping after you let off the throttle not the set valve.
Putting on an aftermarket exhaust sets off the F1 code and for a k6, which is what I have, the dealer code is c46 which is the set valve. I believe it's wire 30 you pull out and it should get rid of the F1 code it throws at you. It's just one of those things where no one likes driving around with a check engine light when they know nothing is wrong with it. So needless to say if you get this code just pull that wire and it'll go away.
have this exact same code same year, must be a manufacture issue ! needless to say problem solved
Would this be same on a 01' gsxr750?
Im confused, are you saying removing this valve WILL create more backfiring and cold start problems or will leaving it cause those problems
How was ur throttle response time? Is there a delay?
Thats not a K8, thats a K6!
My bike won't start with that cable removed
what year is your bike?
Hi, is it K9 also the same method as K8?
I need to know this too. I just pulled the black wire with a white stripe and green dots on my 2009 gsxr600. Im doubting if I did it right
will this be the same for the k9 600 yes? I'm away to remove my cat and add a k6 k7 shorty exhaust but I really want to disable that valve while I'm at it.
Yes, K8/9/10 is the same
Jeasy UA-cam done mines last weekend worked perfect thanks. although I would say your better having exhaust off so you can see exactly when to turn the bike off for the valve being fully open.
I have a K8 750 myself still fully stock... Also about the cut of the cat and fix an olson performance linkpipe in between there... Since I'm going for a straight pipe at the end of this year after I've done the cat delete, it might be good to have atleast some back pressure from the valve still in there.
Not sure yet. Not really into getting a PowerC - with my k7 600 I also had a straight pipe wthout a powerC, worked great for years, perhaps that was the valve still giving sufficient back pressure for it not to run too lean.
Jeasy UA-cam yeh well I'm actually thinking about reconnecting the wire for the valve this weekend because my bike is a bit spluttery low revs in first gear with the the valve disabled and no cat. maybe the valve working will help with back pressure I'm not wanting to get a pc or ecu flash either
Exactly, my personal goal is just to gain some sound and drop weight. I couldn't care less about 2 hp's lost, or gained for that matter. Goodluck with it - still got the stock exhaust?
So run my bike then turn it off with key and st valve is open then. Does it close when I turn key on before start
its a K8 read the damn title
do I need to remove the 2 plugs at under the right rear fairing or is just removing that wire disable the whole system ?
I need to know this too. I just pulled the black wire with a white stripe and green dots on my 2009 gsxr600. Im doubting if I did it right