I did this last night using bread ties and JB Weld Kwik. It worked like a charm. Thanks for the "third world solution" to a "first world" problem. My 2007 Forester has 204,000 miles and the air is still blowing cold with the original compressor. Thanks Kntryhart!
Thanks SO much!! I used 3 paper clips and went in one side then out the other, pushed the plate in with my thumb while pulling up each end of the paper clip with plyers. You're video saved me $1,400 thanks again!!!
I did this and it WORKS. DO IT!! I'm posting this 3 weeks after my fix. I had same exact issues w AC clutch magnet b=not re-engaging. Had just bought a used Forester, 2005, and upon driving car home from dealer this happened (ice cold then warm) over the next few days. It cost me 10 bucks only b/c I didn't have the JB weld or the wire. Took me 20 mins and now that I've done it I could do it in 10 minutes. I used 24 ga wire but I wouldn't get any thicker than that as that's all it needed. My mechanic was amazed.
I was quoted $1600 for the compressor, $150 for gas and and about $350 labor. Some old wire and epoxy and it works fine. So a big thank you from me! Has anyone had luck with the shim removal method mentioned below?
Hello. Have you tried to remove the factory shims. Subarus use two. Just remove on of them to regain some grip once the clutch starts slipping. On heavily damaged clutches you might have to remove both shims. I also remove the clutch, clean the non friction surface with some brake cleaner and a 400 sandpaper. Seems to fix slip and that annoying sound when the clutch engages. My two cents. Regards.
I did this fix. DO IT!! I used a metric conversion that worked out to .30mm on the feller gauge as the end result. I originally had a .70mm gap before starting. It took me about 20 mins only b/c I was unsure of myself....I could now do it in 10 mins. now that I know what I am doing. It works--did it two weeks ago!! Works great!! Just do not use wire any thicker as 23 or 24ga seems to be just about right/all you need. Any thicker might be too much. Saved me $800.00!!
Thanks for your video. My Legacy (2005, 2 litre, 140000miles) AC clutch showed the same wear dust and stopped engaging - also got a bit of a smell as it was also mostly dragging. I suppose that when they work, they are OK, but when they reach the limit of magnetic attraction they will go into mostly slip and rapid wear. My measurement was 0.7mm gap. I undid the screw, and found they my clutch has 2 stainless M6 washers between the spline shaft end and bottom of the clutch splined hole, each 1.4 mm thick. I replaced one washer with 3 off 0.3mm thick copper wave washers I found in my spare bits box. It now works perfectly again. I am hoping it will not need attention for another 140,000 miles.
Brilliant! Just pulled my inner shims, but still too much gap... your solution is perfect... I'd thought of adding an expensive magnet to the front of the clutch plate to pull it it, but did not realize the flexibility of the plate... your work-around is masterful and the height of design fix simplicity.
This workaround is ok quick fix, but it is really better to take out friction plate and remove one shim inside to reduce gap. Remove center bolt (12mm head) screw in three MM5x0.7 30 mm long bolts into removal holes - that should push the plate out. One shim is 0.5mm and you need to remove only one. This is 1 hour job, just did it myself. The clutch itself is available as well at about $150 and kit includes all three parts - pulley, friction plate and electromagnet.
Interesting. I took the car to several air conditioning repair shops and the Subaru dealer. Without exception, all said the clutch was not available and that the entire compressor needed to be replaced. Estimates were in the $600 to $750+. If I did not replace all the components they specified (receiver dryer, valve unit, etc.) there would be no warranty. My 25-cent fix is going on its third year and all works fine. considering the age of the car and 160K on the odometer, the car simply is not worth that investment. If you know where a clutch can be purchased, please include a that information. Better yet, post a video to show the process! Regards.
Kntryhart Wow, third year! Certainly beats any other type of repair. The clutch replacement part number is 73121SA000, I only found out quite recently, it is not very common knowledge. I have read about 'wire' workaround but decided to try removing shims first - what I thought was more permanent repair. I had only one shim in there, after removing the gap went from 0.7 mm to 0.2 mm (spec calls 0.1 mm). Guess next will be 'wire' workaround followed by the clutch replacement if the car is with the family at that time.
akpch Did a search this morning, $185 plus shipping was cheapest I found. I assume you did this on a Forester? Is there room to remove the clutch without removing compressor from car? Is 12 mm head screw standard or reversed (right-hand) thread? I wonder why dealer did not know of this? Thanks.
Hi akpch, Thank you for your info on this problem. I went to four different service establishments, All had different diagnosis and I shelled out almost $800 Aussie dollars for nothing./ My gap was 25 thous.took the clutch face plate off removed the washer, reinstalled and hey presto lovely cooling, and today it was 38 degrees Celsius here in South Australia today. Cheers for your help.
Thanks for the info My 2004 Legacy GT is cool as a cucumber now !!!!..... I ended up using some Galvanized chicken wire to get a .011 Gap. Works like a charm. We've been having Temps in the mid 30's (Canada ) or 95 Deg in U.S. Once again THANKS!!!!!!
Paperclip...excellent idea! Just make sure that the paperclip is properly secured so it does not move. I used my A/C again today...worked like a champ!
Brandy Kessler Glad to hear that it worked for you. It is nice to be able to fix something yourself and save $$$. My Forester AC is still working fine. Just used it today. Enjoy!
2004 forester xt...amazing 15 minutes ...ice cold air ... extremely hot these days and this has saved me at least $1000 very good description of repair ...thank you ...
Carlos - please post a video on how to remove shims! I checked the web, but no info. My fear was that if I damaged that clutch, then I would be up the creek. I tried to remove the A/C clutch from another unit, but was unsuccessful. I hope you post instructions!! Thanks.
Glad you liked it! I tried to remove A/C clutch from another unit just to see how difficult it was...I never did get that clutch removed. While this is not perfect, it certainly is inexpensive. A/C is still working perfect. Hopefully, I can get a couple more years out of it. Once the weather cools, I unplug the power to the compressor. It always bothers me to hear the compressor kick in during defrost when it is snowing! I haven't had any problems with fog removal not using the A/C.
I found this video last year, but never got around to seeing if it actually works. I used a thinner gauge wire and about ten minutes later JB Weld was applied. I took the car for a ride and it worked. A great temporary fix. Thanks
Thanks. Found it. I will keep this for future information. No need to go through the process until there is a need to do so. Again, thanks. I will try to put link in information above.
add me to the "brilliant idea" list! I tried to take the clutch off to remove a spacer and reduce the gap as described in other sites' posts but it wouldn't budge. like yourself, with the .020" wire I got a less than .010" gap so I recommend anyone trying this have some .015" and .010" on hand. I actually used .010" flat stock and am hoping the pressure alone keeps it in place, at least long enough to know that it works. thanks again.
Thank you for the very nice comment! Genius, no; determined, yes. Makes me sad to think we must resort to wire and paperclips to overcome poor design. Just had my Forester's A/C system evacuated and recharged today...it works wonderfully. I was able to have the fan setting on 1 and the car was comfortable even when it was in the upper 80s. Good luck with your Forester!
I just did it is working better but belt still squeaks sometime and the clutch get stuck just for a short time need some help I have a road trip this weekend thanks..
Hello Mark! Thanks for the watching. It frustrates me to see manufacturers do these types of things. I believe this would work on other makes also. Regards.
Dude, this totally worked. I swapped relays, drained and refilled freon, and tried about everything but it was the clutch gap. I fixed it with bread ties because that was all that I had, but it still worked. I'll worry about the proper clearance and better wire later. Right now I have cold air.Thank you so much. You rock.
Hi there, just wanted to say thank you very much for posting this. Very clear instructions, and a very simple solution for a terrible design.I didn't manage nearly as neat a job, and didn't have any glue, but it still works perfectly and the wire has stayed put! Thanks again.
You sir ARE A GENIUS! Thank You very very much! Was fighting this problem in my 04 forester for quite some time now and it took only about 20 minutes after seeing your vide! Used paperclips as well and some silicone glue I found around the house we'll see how it goes. :) Thanks!
Brilliant idea. As a variation, I used aluminum heating duct tape. The thickness is ok (or use two layers) and it sticks! Perhaps it gets two more years out of it.
I just performed this fix on my wifes car and so far it is working great. I didnt want to spend the money on a new compressor because the car has a little over 180,000 miles. My wife is happy to have her AC back and we both wanted to say thank you so much for posting this video!
...I just want to say .. THANK YOU .. I am not a rich guy at this time in my life and you just saved me .. The spring looks new and the gap was big so i only put three wires on and folded them over to see if it worked .. Works great .. Before when the compressor turned off the gauge would go from 30lbs to in the red in a few seconds so when i did what you said to do I checked it again and when the compressor turned off it went up to 45lbs and the compressor turn back on and back to normal..before got cold then warm now cold as hell all the time so i am going to finish it the right way so it don't move ... Thank You again
My car was the exact duplicate of this video. (Same gap measurements / red dust / AC lasting 8-10 min etc for a year or more). Followed your instructions yesterday, and WHAMO! Today with temps in the mid-90's, I have non-stop AC. Works in stop-n-go traffic, highway driving, parking lots; everywhere. Thank you Sir - you saved me tons of $$$ and frustration.
Good fix. Just a note. It is easier to do this with the pulley off. This only requires the removal of the 6mm (?) allen head bolt in the center of the pulley. (don't drop the bolt! Use a magnet to catch it when it is loose.) I used stainless steel wire. You will need about a foot to do the entire job. You will actually only use about three inches, but it is difficult to twist unless you have the extra length.
You say that you can't replace the clutch, which is odd since Subaru has it listed as part # 73121SA000 -- I was just looking since I need to replace mine.
Thank you so much! Did this and worked very well. Used Stainless steel wire but had a bit of trouble because it is not as malleable and sometimes snapped when twisting it. Initially placed the wire more towards the center, before the groove. Then I could only achieve 0.020" gap. When I placed them outside of the groove I got too close, tighter than 0.010" in some places. I had to put 4 wires outside the groove and 2 inside to get a uniform 0.013" gap which I am happy with!
Just did this after disassembling my clutch and with no luck finding any shims. All it cost was two paper clips, epoxy and 10 minutes and like that I've got ac! Thank you so much!!!!!
This worked awesome for me! Thank you so much! 23 gauge wire was too big for me and had to switch to something more like 28 gauge. One sign of a slipping clutch is the reddish-brown dust that shows up in this video as well as on my engine. Thanks again!
Brad Johnson Glad this worked for you. You might want to check your electrical system (battery/alternator/connections) to ensure it is putting out proper voltage under full load.
Hello Kntryhart... So happy to find your post.. I had the same problem and had not thought of the air gap... Mine also checked out to be around 32 to 35 thou. On my 06 Subaru Forrester the clutch was shaped differently and it had three little rubber bumpers that the clutch plate stopped against.. I cut strips of a coffee can lid and placed between the rubber bumpers and secured in place with Hi-temp silicone... Got the gap down to 16 thou. Works great.... Thank you... I was looking at big bucks but instead, fixed it for 15 minutes time, no money...
Kntryhart Hello again... I had to redo mine... Not enough shims... I had settled for .016 thou. which soon went to .020 resulting in AC going of again when out side temp. hit 90.... I re shimmed to reach .011, No more problem... Thanks again... They mean it when they say .010 to.012.
You did what you had to do to make it work. I repair & service automotive Ac systems & I think that was an ingenious quick fix. The right way is to remove the front of the clutch , witch is the clutch plate.Behind it are some washer shims 1 0r 2 till you achive the desired gap.
+Rommel Bryce-Thurton is a clutch puller needed to take the front of the clutch of to get access to the shims? Im on the fence on which way to go. thanks
This sounds so much like a problem I have, but when I turn on my A/C the clutch spins normally for about 30 sec-1 minute then stops for 30 seconds only to start up again. It cycles through this for as long as I can tell. The A/C will blow semi-cold air for about 5 minutes when I first turn it on then it warms up and doesn't get cold again. Do you think that this problem will be fixed by your method or do you think that I have something else going on? I had it recharged a year ago but who knows if I have a leak
LOL...a Dealer lied to me...imagine that! Please send me the part numbers and a source to buy them and I will order, although my air conditioner is still working fine with 178k on the odometer! I went to three places, all said the entire compressor needed to be replaced. Regards.
dan cross I checked ebay as you said...nothing. There are listings for an entire AC compressor though. Tried Google...found several, but they were all $200. My fix cost nothing and took less than 15 minutes of my time. If you find one at a reasonable price, please send me the link. Regards,
+James Sexton the first hit on Google parts.pencesubaru.com/p/Subaru__Forester/CLUTCH-ASSEMBLY-COMPRESSOR/49282551/73121SA000.html?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla
anyone who doesn't like this post must be in the business of $800 AC jobs.
I did this last night using bread ties and JB Weld Kwik. It worked like a charm. Thanks for the "third world solution" to a "first world" problem. My 2007 Forester has 204,000 miles and the air is still blowing cold with the original compressor. Thanks Kntryhart!
Very clear video with no bull from somebody sensible and just trying to help,I appreciate it.
Thank you!
Thanks SO much!! I used 3 paper clips and went in one side then out the other, pushed the plate in with my thumb while pulling up each end of the paper clip with plyers. You're video saved me $1,400 thanks again!!!
I did this and it WORKS.
DO IT!!
I'm posting this 3 weeks after my fix.
I had same exact issues w AC clutch magnet b=not re-engaging.
Had just bought a used Forester, 2005, and upon driving car home from dealer this happened (ice cold then warm) over the next few days.
It cost me 10 bucks only b/c I didn't have the JB weld or the wire.
Took me 20 mins and now that I've done it I could do it in 10 minutes.
I used 24 ga wire but I wouldn't get any thicker than that as that's all it needed.
My mechanic was amazed.
I was quoted $1600 for the compressor, $150 for gas and and about $350 labor. Some old wire and epoxy and it works fine. So a big thank you from me! Has anyone had luck with the shim removal method mentioned below?
You made me a hero to my girlfriend, AND saved me from the $600 quote. Thank you.
Hello. Have you tried to remove the factory shims. Subarus use two. Just remove on of them to regain some grip once the clutch starts slipping. On heavily damaged clutches you might have to remove both shims. I also remove the clutch, clean the non friction surface with some brake cleaner and a 400 sandpaper. Seems to fix slip and that annoying sound when the clutch engages. My two cents. Regards.
I did this fix.
DO IT!!
I used a metric conversion that worked out to .30mm on the feller gauge as the end result.
I originally had a .70mm gap before starting.
It took me about 20 mins only b/c I was unsure of myself....I could now do it in 10 mins. now that I know what I am doing.
It works--did it two weeks ago!!
Works great!!
Just do not use wire any thicker as 23 or 24ga seems to be just about right/all you need. Any thicker might be too much.
Saved me $800.00!!
Thanks for your video. My Legacy (2005, 2 litre, 140000miles) AC clutch showed the same wear dust and stopped engaging - also got a bit of a smell as it was also mostly dragging.
I suppose that when they work, they are OK, but when they reach the limit of magnetic attraction they will go into mostly slip and rapid wear. My measurement was 0.7mm gap.
I undid the screw, and found they my clutch has 2 stainless M6 washers between the spline shaft end and bottom of the clutch splined hole, each 1.4 mm thick.
I replaced one washer with 3 off 0.3mm thick copper wave washers I found in my spare bits box. It now works perfectly again.
I am hoping it will not need attention for another 140,000 miles.
Brilliant! Just pulled my inner shims, but still too much gap... your solution is perfect... I'd thought of adding an expensive magnet to the front of the clutch plate to pull it it, but did not realize the flexibility of the plate... your work-around is masterful and the height of design fix simplicity.
AWESOME! THANKS! You made a dad a car hero to his daughter this week.
thx buddy!! helps me save some dollar!! it works on my 2007 subaru forester!!
You bet...enjoy!
This workaround is ok quick fix, but it is really better to take out friction plate and remove one shim inside to reduce gap. Remove center bolt (12mm head) screw in three MM5x0.7 30 mm long bolts into removal holes - that should push the plate out. One shim is 0.5mm and you need to remove only one. This is 1 hour job, just did it myself. The clutch itself is available as well at about $150 and kit includes all three parts - pulley, friction plate and electromagnet.
Interesting. I took the car to several air conditioning repair shops and the Subaru dealer. Without exception, all said the clutch was not available and that the entire compressor needed to be replaced. Estimates were in the $600 to $750+. If I did not replace all the components they specified (receiver dryer, valve unit, etc.) there would be no warranty.
My 25-cent fix is going on its third year and all works fine. considering the age of the car and 160K on the odometer, the car simply is not worth that investment.
If you know where a clutch can be purchased, please include a that information. Better yet, post a video to show the process!
Regards.
Kntryhart Wow, third year! Certainly beats any other type of repair.
The clutch replacement part number is 73121SA000, I only found out quite recently, it is not very common knowledge. I have read about 'wire' workaround but decided to try removing shims first - what I thought was more permanent repair. I had only one shim in there, after removing the gap went from 0.7 mm to 0.2 mm (spec calls 0.1 mm). Guess next will be 'wire' workaround followed by the clutch replacement if the car is with the family at that time.
akpch Did a search this morning, $185 plus shipping was cheapest I found.
I assume you did this on a Forester? Is there room to remove the clutch without removing compressor from car? Is 12 mm head screw standard or reversed (right-hand) thread? I wonder why dealer did not know of this? Thanks.
Hi akpch, Thank you for your info on this problem.
I went to four different service establishments, All had different diagnosis and I shelled out almost $800 Aussie dollars for nothing./ My gap was 25 thous.took the clutch face plate off removed the washer, reinstalled and hey presto lovely cooling, and today it was 38 degrees Celsius here in South Australia today. Cheers for your help.
Thanks for the info My 2004 Legacy GT is cool as a cucumber now !!!!..... I ended up using some Galvanized chicken wire to get a .011 Gap. Works like a charm. We've been having Temps in the mid 30's (Canada ) or 95 Deg in U.S. Once again THANKS!!!!!!
Paperclip...excellent idea! Just make sure that the paperclip is properly secured so it does not move. I used my A/C again today...worked like a champ!
YOU ROCK. Its not about being purists. Its about getting things done. Great work, great share. Many thanks
2006 Forester,.... 10 minutes, works perfect,...thanks very very much.
+Kyle Wu Great to hear my "fix" worked for you! Keep cool!!
You sir are a legend.. Just did this in my 2007 forester and it worked beautifully. Thanks ALOT.
Wow. I just did this and it worked like a charm. Really easy also!
Brandy Kessler Glad to hear that it worked for you. It is nice to be able to fix something yourself and save $$$. My Forester AC is still working fine. Just used it today. Enjoy!
2004 forester xt...amazing 15 minutes ...ice cold air ...
extremely hot these days and this has saved me at least $1000
very good description of repair ...thank you ...
Mark iannetta Nice to hear that it worked for you. AC in my Forester is still working well. Thanks for the nice comment! Regards.
Carlos - please post a video on how to remove shims! I checked the web, but no info. My fear was that if I damaged that clutch, then I would be up the creek. I tried to remove the A/C clutch from another unit, but was unsuccessful. I hope you post instructions!! Thanks.
Thanks for this video!! You saved me hundreds of $$ on my 2004 Forester. AC hasn't worked right in years and now does, very, very cool fix.
Glad you liked it! I tried to remove A/C clutch from another unit just to see how difficult it was...I never did get that clutch removed. While this is not perfect, it certainly is inexpensive. A/C is still working perfect. Hopefully, I can get a couple more years out of it. Once the weather cools, I unplug the power to the compressor. It always bothers me to hear the compressor kick in during defrost when it is snowing! I haven't had any problems with fog removal not using the A/C.
I found this video last year, but never got around to seeing if it actually works. I used a thinner gauge wire and about ten minutes later JB Weld was applied. I took the car for a ride and it worked. A great temporary fix. Thanks
Thanks. Found it. I will keep this for future information. No need to go through the process until there is a need to do so. Again, thanks.
I will try to put link in information above.
add me to the "brilliant idea" list! I tried to take the clutch off to remove a spacer and reduce the gap as described in other sites' posts but it wouldn't budge. like yourself, with the .020" wire I got a less than .010" gap so I recommend anyone trying this have some .015" and .010" on hand. I actually used .010" flat stock and am hoping the pressure alone keeps it in place, at least long enough to know that it works. thanks again.
Thank you for the very nice comment! Genius, no; determined, yes. Makes me sad to think we must resort to wire and paperclips to overcome poor design.
Just had my Forester's A/C system evacuated and recharged today...it works wonderfully. I was able to have the fan setting on 1 and the car was comfortable even when it was in the upper 80s.
Good luck with your Forester!
I just did it is working better but belt still squeaks sometime and the clutch get stuck just for a short time need some help I have a road trip this weekend thanks..
Hello Mark! Thanks for the watching. It frustrates me to see manufacturers do these types of things. I believe this would work on other makes also. Regards.
GREAT! Glad it worked for you!! Used the A/C in my car today (11 Sept 2013) and it still works perfectly. Take care.
Dude, this totally worked. I swapped relays, drained and refilled freon, and tried about everything but it was the clutch gap. I fixed it with bread ties because that was all that I had, but it still worked. I'll worry about the proper clearance and better wire later. Right now I have cold air.Thank you so much. You rock.
Hi there, just wanted to say thank you very much for posting this. Very clear instructions, and a very simple solution for a terrible design.I didn't manage nearly as neat a job, and didn't have any glue, but it still works perfectly and the wire has stayed put! Thanks again.
You sir ARE A GENIUS! Thank You very very much! Was fighting this problem in my 04 forester for quite some time now and it took only about 20 minutes after seeing your vide! Used paperclips as well and some silicone glue I found around the house we'll see how it goes. :) Thanks!
Brilliant idea. As a variation, I used aluminum heating duct tape. The thickness is ok (or use two layers) and it sticks! Perhaps it gets two more years out of it.
Good idea! I read comments where people used just about everything to adjust the gap...whatever works! Three years and mine is still working. Enjoy!
this really works for me,and it took me like 15 minutes,thank you for saving me a quote of $600 I'm so happy,thanks again.
I just performed this fix on my wifes car and so far it is working great. I didnt want to spend the money on a new compressor because the car has a little over 180,000 miles. My wife is happy to have her AC back and we both wanted to say thank you so much for posting this video!
I had a gap of .70mm, and went to .30mm.
That ".40" difference (less than a half mm) made all the difference!
Great idea, I found my 06 forester had the same problem this summer, I will try your method sometime this weekend.
Thanks so much for this video, the fix worked great! My mechanic was stunned that it worked but the AC is almost too cold now.
...I just want to say .. THANK YOU .. I am not a rich guy at this time in my life and you just saved me .. The spring looks new and the gap was big so i only put three wires on and folded them over to see if it worked .. Works great .. Before when the compressor turned off the gauge would go from 30lbs to in the red in a few seconds so when i did what you said to do I checked it again and when the compressor turned off it went up to 45lbs and the compressor turn back on and back to normal..before got cold then warm now cold as hell all the time so i am going to finish it the right way so it don't move ... Thank You again
I am so glad that this worked for you! Always enjoy hearing success stories!
Keep cool ;-> Regards, JT
I don't have a Subaru, but I learned a lot by watching your work around. Thanks for the time and effort you have put into this video.
Ps I ment` to say remove 1 or 2 till you achive your desired clutch gap
Thank you for taking the time to put your brilliant technique on film. Clever and cool!
Im going to try this tomorrow hopefully works...
Nice fix, much easier than pulling the hub and removing shims!
My car was the exact duplicate of this video. (Same gap measurements / red dust / AC lasting 8-10 min etc for a year or more). Followed your instructions yesterday, and WHAMO! Today with temps in the mid-90's, I have non-stop AC. Works in stop-n-go traffic, highway driving, parking lots; everywhere. Thank you Sir - you saved me tons of $$$ and frustration.
Steve Sargent Great to hear! Keep cool!
Good fix. Just a note. It is easier to do this with the pulley off. This only requires the removal of the 6mm (?) allen head bolt in the center of the pulley. (don't drop the bolt! Use a magnet to catch it when it is loose.) I used stainless steel wire. You will need about a foot to do the entire job. You will actually only use about three inches, but it is difficult to twist unless you have the extra length.
I tried on two separate compressors to remove the pulley...nope. I even used a puller on one...nope. Glad it worked for you!
You say that you can't replace the clutch, which is odd since Subaru has it listed as part # 73121SA000 -- I was just looking since I need to replace mine.
Did you happen to see the price? I think I'll stay with my 25-cent fix (which by the way still works). Good luck!
Thank you so much! Did this and worked very well. Used Stainless steel wire but had a bit of trouble because it is not as malleable and sometimes snapped when twisting it. Initially placed the wire more towards the center, before the groove. Then I could only achieve 0.020" gap. When I placed them outside of the groove I got too close, tighter than 0.010" in some places. I had to put 4 wires outside the groove and 2 inside to get a uniform 0.013" gap which I am happy with!
crazzylarry1 Glad to hear it worked! I agree, for this application stainless wire can be difficult to work with.
Just did this after disassembling my clutch and with no luck finding any shims. All it cost was two paper clips, epoxy and 10 minutes and like that I've got ac! Thank you so much!!!!!
Great to hear that it worked for you...this fix is still working on my car as of July 2014. Keep cool!
Thanks! I just did this AC clutch modification on my 2006 Forester and it works great for me. It took me maybe 30 minutes...
Bill R Great! Thanks for watching!
This worked awesome for me! Thank you so much! 23 gauge wire was too big for me and had to switch to something more like 28 gauge. One sign of a slipping clutch is the reddish-brown dust that shows up in this video as well as on my engine. Thanks again!
Brad Johnson Glad this worked for you. You might want to check your electrical system (battery/alternator/connections) to ensure it is putting out proper voltage under full load.
Great. Seems to be a lot easier than removing shims. Thanks.
this totally worked for me. and it really does only take ten minutes to do.
Kntryhart
Hello Kntryhart... So happy to find your post.. I had the same problem and had not thought of the air gap... Mine also checked out to be around 32 to 35 thou. On my 06 Subaru Forrester the clutch was shaped differently and it had three little rubber bumpers that the clutch plate stopped against.. I cut strips of a coffee can lid and placed between the rubber bumpers and secured in place with Hi-temp silicone... Got the gap down to 16 thou. Works great.... Thank you... I was looking at big bucks but instead, fixed it for 15 minutes time, no money...
Kenneth Bee Great! Glad that your AC is again working...and for no $$$ and just a little time! Thanks for the message. Regards...
Kntryhart Hello again... I had to redo mine... Not enough shims... I had settled for .016 thou. which soon went to .020 resulting in AC going of again when out side temp. hit 90.... I re shimmed to reach .011, No more problem... Thanks again... They mean it when they say .010 to.012.
Does this also eliminate that anoying squealing noise? I have 2000 Legacy Outback and A/C compressor clutch looks same ..
Martin Netušil I doubt it. Google your problem...seems to be quite a few suggestions out there. Good luck!
+dzenan ahmetovic Did you learn how to do it of a youtube video or a website? If so, could you post a link? Thanks!
Thankyou Sooooo much!
You did what you had to do to make it work. I repair & service automotive Ac systems & I think that was an ingenious quick fix. The right way is to remove the front of the clutch , witch is the clutch plate.Behind it are some washer shims 1 0r 2 till you achive the desired gap.
+Rommel Bryce-Thurton is a clutch puller needed to take the front of the clutch of to get access to the shims?
Im on the fence on which way to go. thanks
+cales4utube From what I understand, no puller is required.
Thank you sir !!!
You're video is going to save me $800! Thank you!
See if it works first, then thank me! ;->
Kntryhart I'll let you know. Thank you :)
This sounds so much like a problem I have, but when I turn on my A/C the clutch spins normally for about 30 sec-1 minute then stops for 30 seconds only to start up again. It cycles through this for as long as I can tell. The A/C will blow semi-cold air for about 5 minutes when I first turn it on then it warms up and doesn't get cold again. Do you think that this problem will be fixed by your method or do you think that I have something else going on?
I had it recharged a year ago but who knows if I have a leak
Thanks! I will check it out. I check the clutch gap and it was .013 so sounds like the magnetism isn't the problem. Search continues!
If you determine what the cause is, please post it here to help others. I would be interested also. Regards.
Will do!
Whoever told you that you can't replace just the clutch lied to you. $80 and a 10mm socket and you're done...
LOL...a Dealer lied to me...imagine that!
Please send me the part numbers and a source to buy them and I will order, although my air conditioner is still working fine with 178k on the odometer!
I went to three places, all said the entire compressor needed to be replaced. Regards.
dan cross I checked ebay as you said...nothing. There are listings for an entire AC compressor though. Tried Google...found several, but they were all $200. My fix cost nothing and took less than 15 minutes of my time. If you find one at a reasonable price, please send me the link. Regards,
Until proven otherwise, one cannot purchase an A/C compressor clutch for a 2005 Forester.
Going to try this method now.
+James Sexton the first hit on Google
parts.pencesubaru.com/p/Subaru__Forester/CLUTCH-ASSEMBLY-COMPRESSOR/49282551/73121SA000.html?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla
LOL...Read listing...not $80, but rather "you save $80"...price is $199 plus shipping. Will stay with my 25-cent fix. Regards.
PS: This made my day!! Thanks!