How have I not found this channel sooner??? Love the in depth content, was looking at this engine to replace the ridiculous Hyper 30 on my Ofna Hobao Hyper Vs version 1... Wanted something a little more manageable and something I could run at the local track. Will DEFINITELY be picking up one of these SH engines. Liked and subscribed
As a nitro enthusiast that can't get a piston/sleeve to last more than 3.5 gallons (which I fully log for all my engines), this engine sounds very appealing. I've got two $65 Trackstar .21 engines, one on its 2nd piston/sleeve ($30) and the other on its 3rd. Also got a $400 Protek Samurai S03 at 2.25 gallons that won't pass the hold-engine-sideways compression test, and flames out like it's already in need of a $140 piston/sleeve. No sense in me buying another expensive engine since that doesn't seem to be a factor. Always preheat with a heat gun to at least 200F before every start.
The +2 refers to the bypass ports in the piston? I kinda thought that was referring to the extra openings "wings" next to the exhaust port(what I call a "three piece" exhaust
I have a brand new Samurai R03 by Protek. Ran one break in tank. Oil is seeping out of the front bearing to the point it looks like someone dropped a few drops of oil behind the flywheel. Is this something I should return or is this nothing so long as it runs well? Also the backplate on the inside is slightly rubbing the crank. I assume this is normal because nothing really holds the piston rod from sliding on the nub of the crank. Many thanks if you have any remarks.
It certainly shouldn't be leaking. Most of the time performance will seem to be fine, but it is a variable that should be eliminated. If you bought it new retail there's a good chance you can get them to send you a new bearing if you contact customer service. That way you don't have to return the whole engine. Backplate rubbing happens, they hard coat the backplate for that reason. But you should only be able to tell it's doing it by seeing the evidence of it(the marks on the backplate) if you can feel it rub when you spin the crank by hand, something's wrong. Probably rear bearing not fully seated.
The front bearing will usually leak when you run an engine really really rich like during break in. Finish up the break in, wipe the oil away, and run it with a normal tune and everything should be fine.
Just had to RMA this engine back to amain. On the very first tank of break in the engine started blowing smokr bubbles from around the head bolts. Tried tightening bolts at first but this made no change. Removed head button and inspected sealing surfaces. I noticed that the leak was at the sleeve notch. It seemed like the seal was being formed towards the outside of the sleeve. This left the sleeve notch open to leak oil & compression. Did you ever have a similar issue?
Never heard of that. So it's leaking out from between the sleeve and the crankcase at the indexing notch? The sleeve is fully seated? Did you remove the sleeve and inspect the crankcase for damage? My guess would be some kind of defect in the crankcase. I can't imagine how it would get around the button o-ring. I'd be interested to see a video of what it's doing
Not to take over the conversation but I had the EXACT same problem with one of the last times you could get a novarossi 28-8 brand new from websites. Crap was blowing out of the head bolts and I knew from the very first start of break in, something was very,very wrong. Checked everything an experienced hobbyist would check and nothing was loose or bad to the eye. Had to send it back to absolutehobbyz and they took it back no questions. Wish I had got a good one! Good luck with your engine and take care.
I can't wait to get my engine you just made easier thanks
How have I not found this channel sooner??? Love the in depth content, was looking at this engine to replace the ridiculous Hyper 30 on my Ofna Hobao Hyper Vs version 1... Wanted something a little more manageable and something I could run at the local track. Will DEFINITELY be picking up one of these SH engines. Liked and subscribed
As a nitro enthusiast that can't get a piston/sleeve to last more than 3.5 gallons (which I fully log for all my engines), this engine sounds very appealing. I've got two $65 Trackstar .21 engines, one on its 2nd piston/sleeve ($30) and the other on its 3rd. Also got a $400 Protek Samurai S03 at 2.25 gallons that won't pass the hold-engine-sideways compression test, and flames out like it's already in need of a $140 piston/sleeve. No sense in me buying another expensive engine since that doesn't seem to be a factor. Always preheat with a heat gun to at least 200F before every start.
Send that Protek Samurai off to Drake for a pinch and bearings....
I've used the super clean in the purple bottle works very well
8+2 equals 8 intake ports and 2 bypass ports bypass ports allow for relief of pressure under the piston. That’s why there is two holes in the piston.
The +2 refers to the bypass ports in the piston? I kinda thought that was referring to the extra openings "wings" next to the exhaust port(what I call a "three piece" exhaust
Great and very informative video!
How about another track video but you can do a 3 shoe vs 4 shoe on the same engine. I’d like to see the difference in performance if any.
I'm sure you no this tod but for everyone you can replace those pins on the flywheel to save the flywheel
I know it can be done, would need the correct steel rod, and a pin press. I have flywheels with loose pins, these are pressed in pretty good.
Thanks for the good videos,did you test drive the SH photon .21 engine
I have yet to run the photon, I think the next SH I'm running is the XB-HCP. I'll get to the photon eventually
@@NitroTalkwithTodd thanks for answering
I have a brand new Samurai R03 by Protek. Ran one break in tank. Oil is seeping out of the front bearing to the point it looks like someone dropped a few drops of oil behind the flywheel. Is this something I should return or is this nothing so long as it runs well? Also the backplate on the inside is slightly rubbing the crank. I assume this is normal because nothing really holds the piston rod from sliding on the nub of the crank. Many thanks if you have any remarks.
It certainly shouldn't be leaking. Most of the time performance will seem to be fine, but it is a variable that should be eliminated. If you bought it new retail there's a good chance you can get them to send you a new bearing if you contact customer service. That way you don't have to return the whole engine.
Backplate rubbing happens, they hard coat the backplate for that reason. But you should only be able to tell it's doing it by seeing the evidence of it(the marks on the backplate) if you can feel it rub when you spin the crank by hand, something's wrong. Probably rear bearing not fully seated.
The front bearing will usually leak when you run an engine really really rich like during break in. Finish up the break in, wipe the oil away, and run it with a normal tune and everything should be fine.
Just had to RMA this engine back to amain. On the very first tank of break in the engine started blowing smokr bubbles from around the head bolts. Tried tightening bolts at first but this made no change. Removed head button and inspected sealing surfaces. I noticed that the leak was at the sleeve notch. It seemed like the seal was being formed towards the outside of the sleeve. This left the sleeve notch open to leak oil & compression.
Did you ever have a similar issue?
Never heard of that. So it's leaking out from between the sleeve and the crankcase at the indexing notch? The sleeve is fully seated? Did you remove the sleeve and inspect the crankcase for damage? My guess would be some kind of defect in the crankcase. I can't imagine how it would get around the button o-ring. I'd be interested to see a video of what it's doing
@@NitroTalkwithTodd ua-cam.com/users/shorts9J_oZGpXZss?feature=share here's the link to a little video I put together.
Not to take over the conversation but I had the EXACT same problem with one of the last times you could get a novarossi 28-8 brand new from websites. Crap was blowing out of the head bolts and I knew from the very first start of break in, something was very,very wrong. Checked everything an experienced hobbyist would check and nothing was loose or bad to the eye. Had to send it back to absolutehobbyz and they took it back no questions. Wish I had got a good one! Good luck with your engine and take care.
Hi. I bought this engine and lost its factory carb setting manual. Is there a way I can get this from you? Like a picture or something
Contact me on Facebook, search Nitro Talk with Todd
Curious why is ur 2mm mip driver green stickerd
I answer this in the SH PT2010XBHCP video posting today(hint- it isn't)