Full Restoration on Allen Edmonds Carlyle: Patina, shine and Re-lasting
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- Опубліковано 19 лис 2022
- Wowsers! This was one of my most difficult restorations. These Allen Edmonds Carlyle were an absolute mess. The finish was terrible and there was heavy creasing and folds in the vamp and along the sides. I believe they suffered a failed patina attempt. Luckily I was able to strip and restore the finish with a custom patina and shine and I completely re-shaped the shoes by steam shrinking them onto lasted shoe trees. The re-lasting was totally new for me but I am thrilled with the outcome. Let me know what you think!
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its genuinely astounding that so much neglect could be rectified on these shoes. by the end of the video they look damn near brand new aside from some small creasing on the back sections of the shoe.
Yeah I was amazed how they bounced back. Glad you liked it!
I honestly thought this was going to be one of those videos where the caption picture was way off from the actual result. Glad to see I was wrong. Bravo, well done!
That is very much appreciated thank you
I’m so happy to find you on UA-cam. Love the creativity and education you bring to this community. ❤
They look like polished wooden shoes. Simply gorgeous!
I really appreciate it 🙏
@@mbshoedoc ❤
As dramatic as this sounds this video has almost single handedly given me a level of respect for footwear care. Beautiful work
Wow thanks so much! I'm glad you enjoyed it. It's amazing how a good pair of shoes can be given new life and last for many years.
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Damp cloth and hot iron to even out creases - I'm stealing that one. Kudos on the work, my man. Looks beautiful!
severely underrated channel, subbed
Thank you much. This was probably one of my toughest jobs. Glad you liked it.
That was amazing
Fantastic. Thank you 🙏 😊
Dang!! That is a fantastic aesthetic improvement to the shape of that shoe. I love it. You always do such nice work!!
Thanks man! I love the harder edge they got on the outstep curve if that makes sense. It gave them a more dynamic and slightly asymmetrical shape with a bolder outer curve and softer instep curve. 👍
Amazing! That is what I call quite the transformation!
It was a doozy!
You make this look easy but it truly is an art form. I messed up a $600 pair of shoes trying this. Took to a shoe repair shop and he didn’t do much better than I did. I wish I could do this. I love that shiny-toed, burnished look!
Yeah sadly most shoe repair shops aren't good at it at least not good enough for $500 shoes. Send me an email with some pics of the shoes and let's discuss how to get them right. I'm sure I can fix you up.
Mbshoedoc@gmail.com
@@mbshoedoc I got rid of them and bought the same shoes…. but I’m leaving these one’s alone. Lol… I have 2 pairs of new Allen Edmonds Oxfords…. very similar style as these. One set in Chilli and the other in Almond. My most comfy dress shoes!
Fantastic renovation, and a very enjoyable video. Thanks!
So glad you liked it, thanks!
Wonderful job as usual and as always educating.
I really appreciate that, glad you enjoyed it!
Good to see you are back
I have so many videos recorded I just need to take the time to edit them.
Yet another awesome rescue job. Just amazing Doc!
Many thanks my friend, glad you liked it 👍
Smart idea taking the creases out!
It worked better than I expected.
Great job! Thanks for sharing
Thank you very much!
Outstanding work!
Thanks very much!
That is good job. I am a shoes designer with CAD CAM. And I like your videos.
A thanks very much. I'm not familiar with CAD CAM. I'll have to look into it. I've heard of CAD for engineering but don't know anything about it.
@@mbshoedoc yes sir, that is designing software. It is the begining step for design a shoes that in the your shoes. Your shining is very good, sir. I like it.
@@cadshoepattern Thanks 🙏👍
Wow ! It looks amazing !
Much appreciated!
WOW, BEAUTIFUL JOB!!!
Thank you very much!
Awesome work!
I really appreciate it, thanks 🙏
Beautiful ❤️
Outstanding job
I appreciate that very much!
Absolutely insane how you brought these back to life.
Thanks so much! It's amazing how well a good pair of shoes can bounce back.
Beautiful!
I really appreciate it!
Uniquely satisfying, fantastic work
thanks, glad you liked it!
Incredible job! Extremely satsifying to watch too.
So glad you enjoyed it! It was quite a project.
Outstanding.
Thanks very much 🙏
Lovely work
Much appreciated 👍
I would say that the AE Carlyle is my favorite dress shoe of all Ever. There’s just something about that shoe ,can’t put my finger on it but I’m in love with it and what you have done with these here, sir I am just drooling .If we met face-to-face I would have trouble talking about anything else but those shoes
Too kind my friend, thank you. Sadly I did all that work and then they were a little too snug for me. Luckily I did find them a new home though.
Very nice work, MB.!!
Much appreciated!
Bravo, bravisimo. Beautiful work 👌
I really appreciate it, thank you
This was your best work yet!
Thanks very much. It's a subtle patina but the whole reshaping really elevated the looks of the shoe.
Great Job!
Much appreciated
Great job
Thank you much!
Great job man ! 👞
Well done 👏👏👏👏👏
I appreciate it, thank you 🙏👍
Amazing!
I'm so glad you liked it 👍
From worn shoes, to a thorough cleaning, adding a the patina, to lacing up adding a final touch, the exquisite laced knot. The name of the knot escapes. Priceless. Semper Fi
PS Perhaps you can provide the name of the knot.
Whoa! This is an outstanding presentation and commentary! Much enjoyment! Semper Fi
I'm so glad you liked it. I really appreciate it!
The transformation that you did with these shoes is absolutely amazing. The shoes look brand new. You have a unique talent.
Thanks so very much. They honestly turned out better than I expected they could.
Well done great job
I really appreciate that. I love how they turned out.
They look great!!!! I’m taking notes trying to master the art
It's a great hobby and skill 👍
art work i love
very impressive!
Thank you very much 👍
It might have been one of your most difficult restorations but it also may be the finest of all your restorations. I could not believe how gorgeous they are now. Talk about "Night & Day"!
You are the "The Shoedoc" indeed! Regards from Argentina.
Thanks so much my friend. I was quite proud of this one 🙏
That's impressive! I've watched about 15 episodes from 'The Elegant Oxford' and now I've seen 6 or 7 of your episodes. Honestly, i like your work better!
Thats very kind of you. Thank you very much and I'm glad you like the videos 👍
Brand new in my eyes
They have a second chance at life.
Elegant shoes
Wow, they looked better than any of my fancy shoes even before they started
The Carlyle is a very nice model from Allen Edmonds.
Good job
Thank you much
A deep heartfelt Dankeschön! from Germany for the hint with the steam. I have two pairs of "patients" for that where the deer bone failed.
Glad it may be of some help. Just beware that it can strip the finish off the shoe. I only did it because I was already planning to strip and dye them. I would be hesitant otherwise.
These are inherited learning shoes.
The finish was already removed at the beginning of the pandemic, the following steps delayed by supply chain issues.
I tried polishing the creases out with a deer bone, did not work out as desired.
At the moment it is bare leather stripped in summer of 2020 and soared and massaged with conditioner in the following winter. Also I scraped and polished the outer rim of the soles (not the welt) with a glass shard, I found this technique at a japanese channel.
@@peter2327 sounds like a perfect project pair for trying the iron on 👍
Wow amazing shoe wax video 😍 🔥🔥🔥
Thanks man, glad you liked it!
I love this video l liked and subscribed. Please keep knocking it out of the park .❤
I really appreciate it, thank you.
Chalk and Cheese the difference! Cracking job and I would love a pair of shoes like those
Thanks so much! I do restorations for clients so feel free to reach out anytime.
Ok nice. Very nice. First of all. Try to find an excellent shoe shine boy like yourself.
That’s number one.
Number two. Even if I could find someone like yourself how much would it be ? Could I buy a new pair for cheaper than you’d charge ?
But you are excellent at what you do. No doubt. Excellent job.
You can find good used Allen Edmonds on eBay in the $100 range. I charge about $140 for a restoration and custom patina. You would be all in around $240 which is less than the $400 retail price of a new AE shoe. 👍
@@mbshoedoc good info. Thanks 🙏
Wow! That was an amazing job! Just found your channel comming from intagran. Great work!
Thanks man. Glad you found me. IG is great to show off some photos but here I can show the process 💪👍
Super!
Much appreciated man 👊
extraordinario
Thank you!
Man you are a real artist!!Very fine but do you think that I dear to go out with such shoes in the mudd ? You must be joking! 😂😂
I'm glad you like them and no, I would skip the mud and the rain in these.
I like the before!
Not really sure what to say to that.
I just bought a pair of chukka boots from Allen Edmonds and this was exactly how they looked when I got them. I actually thought that it was an intentional "camouflage" look! 😂
I may try this out.
Thank you!
Woah really? What was the color name? Most of the Allen Edmonds I've seen were rather basic in their colorations. I've never seen one significantly mottled.
@@mbshoedoc specifically, a dark brown, lending to even a more mottled and "camouflage appearance"
I can send you pictures, if you're interested.
Of course, since they were bought as factory seconds, I really don't think that I have any recourse.
But it does put my confidence in the Brand back several steps. Pardon the pun.
I thoroughly enjoyed your video and the final product.
Well done!
@@thomashelm6931 Well sorry to hear it was disappointing. Factory seconds can be hit or miss. People recommend you ask for images or description of the problem before ordering the seconds. I have a few pairs that have such minor problems it's almost imperceptible but others I've seen are pretty significant and I wouldn't wear them.
Shoe making is an art not just a job! These are real shoes ! Not the crap that fly off the machines in China !
Allen Edmonds does some really solid work. I have pairs 6 years old and have worked on pairs twice to three times as old. They hold up well.
Wow!!
Thanks!
Хорошо у вас получается.
Sorry I can't read this
У меня телефон сам переводит, а у вас, что нет? Russia.
@@user-lt4bu6ed4v unfortunately UA-cam doesn't have a translate feature. I can't copy and paste into Google translate either. Maybe on PC but my phone won't do it sorry.
Hello sir. What color dye you used for the burnish. Also great technique you use to add burnish. Very lite and gradual application makes it easy to apply and safe.
I’m gonna attempt to strip and dye some shoes I purchased and also adding some brushing.
Thank you for your shared knowledge!! Great videos.
Really good job mate! In my opinion, they look better without the finish wax touch, I don’t like so much the “shiny look” but it’s just my personal taste 😉. Greetings from one shoes lover from Spain 🙌🏻
Thanks man, glad you liked the restoration 👍
Excellent😅
Thank you very much!
Nice
I really appreciate it!
Work of art! What brush are you using to add color? It applies so evenly!
Glad you liked it. I typically use e.l.f makeup brushes. The larger is a foundation brush and smaller eyeshadow brushes. I find these work better than cheap craft store brushes. There are probably some expensive artist brushes that would do even better but I've never felt the need to get one.
Should have resoled them. The left shoes toe area was pretty rough.
Honestly I have too many shoes to worry about resoles. I rotate them so they never wear down much more than where they are at when I get them.
Fantastic job, they look amazing. I would like to try the patina on my shoes. Can you post a list of products you used? Thanks in advance
Thank you much. Honestly I would have to watch my own video again to see all what I used. I can tell you in general I always use Acetone to strip the shoes. I get it from Lowes or Home deopot. Then I like Fiebings buckskin dye as a base coloration. There are great dyes by Angelus and Saphir as well but Fiebing was the easiest for me to find on Amazon and was the lowest price when getting started. Buckskin base, then a darker brown for the burnishing. I like Fiebing Pro Walnut and Saphir Havanna and Angelus dark brown for burnishing accents. After that a conditioning lotion Bick 4 is my go to but I have used Angelus, Zoe's venetian shoe cream, Saphir Renovateur. Final is a high shine wax and Saphir neutral mirrorgloss is my go to and then either brown or black for a finishing burnish touch.
@@mbshoedoc
Thank you for taking the time to reply. I will certainly look for those products you recommend and give it a try. Thanks again, I appreciate it.
Oz
Magnificent job! I read that if you shrink the leather using heat/steam they get loose again fairly quickly after use and you need to repeat the process quite often. What is your experience with it? Thanks
Well unfortunately I didn't keep these and passed them onto someone else and he has quite a large collection so I don't think they are too likely to stretch out anytime soon. I may not ever find out but if I do I'll make a video about it.
I love the problem solving with the iron. Never saw that before! Were these in your size? How much does shrinking the vamp change the sizing/fit?
It definitely changed the fit some and tightened up the vamp. They were about a half size small to begin with so I really only tried them on briefly. If you had a loose pair this could certainly help.
There is hope for a few pairs of my shoes yet
Always hope for quality shoes 😁💪
Turnee out amazing! Please make a video on restoring the the side of soles and heels. How can we make them look better?
I use the same leather dyed on the sole edge then finish them off with wax and a quick brush. It makes quite a difference. The edge can be lightly sanded first if needed. 400 grit or higher should work well.
Wow.....
Much appreciated 👍
I really like the way you were able to revive these shoes!!!👍👏 I just purchased the same pair of Carlyle’s from Ebay that look pretty rough. I want to try to patina my pair and I’m hoping I can get them to look like yours. I’m wondering if you can please provide me the name of the products you used on your pair? Thanks! 🙏
I'm pretty sure I mention all the products as I go along. I don't remember everything that was used and would have to watch the video again to double check but I always strip with acetone from the hardware store step 1. Then a base coat usually Fiebings buckskin. From there it's darker burnishing with Fiebings walnut pro dye, Saphir Havana, Angelus brown etc to get the color I want.
Awesome, and thank you!
Just found channel! Awesome video! After the acetone cleaning did you say you condition the shoe and then use the dye? Hearing isn’t what it use to be! Thanks and have subscribed
Thank you very much. I don't always re condition after stripping but these were rough to begin with and more so after stripping so this time I conditioned then dyed them. And thanks for the sub!
Enjoy your channel! Thanks
Hello - I love your work, particularly your attention to fine detail and artistic talent. I own six pairs of Allen Edmonds "Dalton" boots, which are near & dear to my heart because they fit and wear so well. Sadly, my favorite pair has suffered some surface damage and my local Cobbler is unable to help. Would you consider examining these boots and recommending a path forward? I really want to make them last the rest of my life. Thank you, Tom in Delaware
Thanks very much Tom. Send me some images and let's discuss it. I'm out of town for a week but I'll get back to you soon.
mbshoedoc@gmail.com
Wauw
Thanks very much 👍
Hello Shoe Doc,
Many years of military service in the 80s taught me proper shining techniques. But, I have just bought a new pair of Chelseas for office wear in the New England winter. Aside from nightly wash with fresh water to remove salt and then polish, can I do better? Haven't polished them yet, only saddle soap and fresh water as I received them two days ago.
Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Fred in NH, USA
I think the saddle soap should be a rare use item. Maybe at the end of the season when there is no more salt. There are some specific products for salt if needed but I don't have experience with them. The only product I use more regularly is a leather conditioner like bick 4, Saphir renovateur or pure polish conditioner. Aside from that I give shoes a good first shine then use minimal wax as needed to repair the scuffs
What shoe trees are you using in this video? I see you're using two different types so please let me know of both brands. Thank you and especially for a wonderful video of one of my favorite Allen Edmonds styles. I have them in each color.
Glad you liked the video. I do go over the shoe trees in the video if you want to check again. The first pair is either Nordstrom or Allen Edmonds but they are basically the same. They are generic and will work reasonably well for any shoe. The second set are lasted shoe trees that came with a pair of Vass shoes. I think their U last. These would not work in a typical AE Carlyle but I used them to reshape the shoe to fit that tree and give it a more dynamic shape. I hope that helps.
Nice! where do you recommend getting lasted shoe trees from (that dont break the bank)?
A number of shoe brands have them but I don't know off hand which brands offer them for sale individually or the pricing. The only ones I know of that are an actual shoe tree maker are Laberta. I think they make the shoe trees for a few shoe brands. Check out my review of them:
ua-cam.com/video/KpJkx-WL_eg/v-deo.html
Great save with these shoes! Looks like a lot of heel and sole life left for a purchase from the Bay, so lucky you. Any chance you have a link to that particular brush? Actually, have you done a video yet just on the brushes you use and how/when you use them?
I don't think I've done a brush dedicated video. For a number of years I used an Allen Edmonds Large brush. I think the biggest they have is around 6". This is minimum size for me. Anything smaller than this you risk hitting the shoe with the wooden brush and marring the surface. I did it many times. (but to be fair was it the small brush or an inexperienced user?...this was probably 6+ years ago). After the AE brush I found this vintage Johnston Murphy 8" brush on ebay and I never looked back. Been using this one for about 4 years straight and it has done well. I much prefer the longest hair and largest brush I can get. This makes it more gentle on the shoes for a better shine. I typically only use it after conditioning the shoes and along the vamp and sides after waxing them. I don't use it on the toes where I try to mirror shine. I also use it gently on my personal pairs to dust them off before wearing and after wearing.
@@mbshoedoc haha, I was talking about the brushes you use for applying the dye
@@jeremydb8954 😂 oh yeah, those! Ok, I use e.l.f makeup brushes. The larger is a foundation brush and smaller is eyeshadow brush. And no I don't wear make-up. I have found these work better than the cheap craft store paint brushes. Now I am sure there are some better quality artist brushes but I just haven't felt the need to play around and explore the options. These are cheap around $2 and I can find them at Target and Amazon etc and just grab a handful and use one for each color family. One for reds, blues, greens, purple, yellow, black, light and dark brown. You can clean them out with alcohol but I fear the color mixing so I keep them separated. Hope that answers a little better than my first fail LOL.
@@mbshoedoc awesome, thanks!
very nice, whch lasted shoe trees are those
These are from Vass, F last.
Beautiful job, what color dye did you use on the entire shoe? I only noticed the brown color you used for the burnishing.
Pretty sure I used a buckskin base from Fiebings. I thought I had shown it or mentioned it in the video but could be wrong.
@@mbshoedoc I was looking for it. Maybe just put something in the description. Hey, if I were you I would look at other channels doing similar men's clothing stuff and up the editing and sound etc on these vids to make your channel pop off. Many guys are getting into fashion and shoes etc now and editors are cheap. This could be a good business for you. Cool stuff thanks for the help!
@@practicaltheory I appreciate it. At the moment I am doing all the edits and audio myself and trying to learn. Not sure I want to invest in an editor at this low level but could be worth it eventually.
Absolutely stunning women 😍
Glad you like them!
Question:
When maintaining the hand painted shoes in a couple of weeks or month with creme…will the color come off?
Do you use a pigmented cream or is a neutral creme more appropriate?
The color should not come off the shoes. I very very rarely use any pigmented cream polish. I like to do all the coloring with the dyes and then use neutral conditioner and wax after that.
Thanks for the video!
Can I use other solvents if acetone is unavailable?
Alcohol can strip shoes decently but not quite as well as acetone. Fingernail polish remover has acetone in it and will work too.
@@mbshoedoc many thanks 🙏
magnificent job It's like you're recreating an oil painting by a previous artist🎩
Thank you very much. I enjoy taking a pair of shoes that are unwearable and making them beautiful again.
@@mbshoedoc Johann Wolfgang von Goethe: The craftsman works with his hands, the professional with his brains, and the artist with his heart, brains, and hands #And you are with class 3
@@kiralikaskshoes857 Too kind my friend, thank you. This has been a great hobby and small business for me. I started years ago with furniture restoration and loved that but I had to work in the cold dark garage and the sawdust and space it required was too much. Working with leather has similarities but this has been much better for me. Able to work indoors in a smaller space and hey I get to wear some of them too :)
I subscribed a while ago and I’ve been wondering: do you do commissions? I have a nice pair of oxblood Peal & Co for Brooks Brothers that I’d love redyed to a medium brown with some patina.
Yes I do. Most of the work I do is for clients with a few jobs here and there that I treat myself to. Email me at mbshoedoc@gmail.com
i may have missed it, but are you dyeing them after rehydration or stripping them and leaving them raw from the acetone and then adding the dye?
It's always strip first then dye but sometimes if the leather is really dry I will rehydrate somewhere in the middle and then add more dye.
Great job. What did you rehydrate then with?
It's a company called Pure Polish. They make creams, waxes and the cleaner conditioner I used here. Their products are all natural. It's a newer and smaller company I'm happy to support. Their high shine wax can create a great mirror shine too but on this pair I used Saphir.
@@mbshoedoc nice. Thanks. I bought a used pair of walnut Carlyle. They came with some dark markings, so I figured I would just darken them completely. I'm thinking something like the chili color, but I'm not sure which dye color will take me there. Any recommendations?
@@eespinosa64 honestly not sure. I think it would require a custom mix of a few colors. Maybe diluted Fiebings mid brown which is a reddish brown tone.
Very nice 👍🏾🤎
Thank you much!
how long did it take you to get that lightening result with just the acetone? I have some AE Sanfords from 2000 originally in 5347 Bourbon Burnished Calf which is just burnished Walnut and somebody dyed them with a purple base and ruined them. I've been using acetone to get them lighter and the purple is coming off slowly but it's not getting as light as yours have they still look dark. I've done 2 passes so far with drying sessions in between, just wondering how many more I should do/can do safely and if too many will ruin anything. Is bleach/water mixture an option at this point and will that require a walnut dying again or can I just use a pommadier cream in light brown to get the color I want again?
It can take quite a while. These weren't dyed it looked more like nasty thick cream polish so it stripped easier. Purple dye will be tougher. Bleach water is an option but that is where some damage can occur. It's a little more risky. I'd stay with acetone for a bit. What color are you going for? You may want to seek help from someone.
At what heat did you use the iron at? Is there a particular setting or did you just have it on low/high heat? Thanks!
Good question and I have no idea. I just plugged it in and went for it and never checked the setting 😂🤦♂️. Sorry!
@@mbshoedoc No worries! I figured I would try it on a low setting to not burn the leather. Renewing old eBay shoes is fun!!
@@gavinrowland8736 heck yes it is. I agree with your idea. Start low and increase heat only if necessary.
So some shoes already come with patina on it? Didn’t know ppl. we’re adding the patina nowadays and kind of getting back into shoes after about a decade just being into sneakers.
Also, how do you polish shoes that have patina?! Do you use 2 diffent polished or just use one for the whole shoes?
Yes there are brands that come from the factory with patina. My brand Michael Darren Shoes is an example. As far as polishing them I tend to just use neutral wax and conditioning lotion on everything. I sometimes use a dark brown or black wax to burnish a toe or rarely a colored cream to fix a scuff but for normal maintenance I stay with neutral.
Would saphir renomat work too instead of acetone?
It can but I can't stand the smell of renomat. It bothers me far more than acetone and doesn't strip nearly as well. Takes 3 times longer and 5 times the amount of headache from fumes LOL