Used your video to source a real nice take-down tool thru Fulton Armory, $100, but worth it. not those stamping ones on Amazon. Did a WWII late style rear sight upgrade today on my Springfield Armory 1995 vintage M1 carbine receiver, with the entire carbine kitted for a Korea era look. Thanks.
If you don't stake the rear sight in place (adjustable type) in may move and change the location of your hits, that's if it doesn't fall out. A flip sight should be lightly chiseled into place. The receiver is heat treated but these minor modifications should be fine, just don't over due it. A black oxide finish, or rough green repark is a warning sign that the metal is brittle and beware.
I have a bent steel plate that fits over the flip sight. I don’t know if it was a tool they made for installation, or if it was just a visual gauge to show when the flip was centered on the heel of the receiver. Keep it in my box of carbine specific tools.
Sounds like the template to locate the type II or III adjustable sights form an existing flip sight. Keep it, its a cool part of the history of the M1 Carbine.
I was in the Marines 67-70, We never staked anything, I would not do it, it is nice to know the rear sight dovetail must be tapered, left to right to remove and right to left to install...
I have a April of '44 Winchester carbine and I've been debating ,but I think I'm going to do it. I removed the bayonet lug and that went real well. Nice video.
Thanks man, this was a huge help to me. My sight was really fucking tight going in, but it's in nice and straight and it sure as shit isn't coming out. Thanks again!
Zeroing is done on the short range, forward position. Depending on the rifle and how many rebuilds it will take some time. With a flip it is very difficult for windage. Elevation adjustments are done with the front sight height which is always best to start out with a tall post. Corrections cna then be made by filling it down. If an adjustable rear sight windage adjustment is very easy as well as elevation.
Semi-autos, especially the M1, are very different than bolt guns. There are many different parts especially up front. If a barrel was bent that much there would be functioning issues. All the righting right should be correctable with the front sight sitting on a wide gas cylinder and the rear sight.
Depending if you have a flip sight or an adjustable. Flips are chiseled slightly on the dovetails just to the side of sights x4 total but usually the 2 to the right side will do it. If its an adjustable the sight needs to be staked in place unsetting the receiver dovetail in the notches made in the sight.
...very helpful. I'm just getting started on M1's....seems to be very addictive. Question: if there is a need to stake a sight or pin will a punch (with reasonable force) work on the heat treated parts?
There is a notch cut into the adjustable rear sights . This is where you should stake the receiver dovetail into it lightly. Google the photos and you can see where and how hard to do it.
It can be drifted out with a punch or wood form left to right but this will usually 99% of the time make marks on the finish, damage the site, or actually break the dovetail of the receiver. I recommend borrowing, renting, or buying and reselling to ensure nothing is damaged.
So I am here because I bought a redfield scope mount with a flip peep sight for M1 carbine. The rear end that should have a dovetail is flat. Dose anyone have ANY ideas ?
If you don't stake the rear sight there is a chance of the sight moving during firing. You can try it but be prepared to look for your sight on the ground.
+nick eaton Depends on how many, how heavy stacked, and the location. Usually if you turn to the side they can be seen since the spring does not sit on top of the receiver.
Last year, my dad gave me his WW II era M-1. I took it to the range and then returned it to its case. A couple of months later, I took it out again and, low and behold, the rear sight was missing! I thought, gee, it must have fallen out. I was able to get a new sight and install it by using a wooden block and hammer. Between that experience, and seeing this video, it is clear that the sight was stolen, and did not fall out. My only remaining question is, is there anything I need to do to make sure the sight does not move under recoil? Never mind; I read the comments, below.
I have a few m1 carbines, inlands. Not sure If I would like the peep site as I get older my eyes seem to get worse! I cant even shoot over 100 yards anymore through irons with my m1a. Is there manufacture of upper hanguard rails that I could mount an optic?
Hi Norwich, I was wondering why my rear sight on my Universal M1 Moves so much. I do not think its staked into place. How do you perform this operation? Thanks
Hi Norwich93: Can you tell me where you got the "spacer" block from that you didn't use for this install? You showed it to us, but put it on the side. Thanks, Rick
By eye. But centered does not equal sighted in properly. Before staking the rifle should be test fired and adjusted left or right dependent on the bullet strikes. Once on target it should be staked, or chiseled, into place then no matter the centering on the receiver. I hope that helps.
That spacer is a USGI and a part of the issued tool set for use only with the stamped type rear sight, not the milled type. Other improvised spacers will work like a few expired credit cards. Hoe that helps.
Most collectors want to restore their rifle to the as issued condition. Most cabines had the flip style sights on them when they came out of the factory.
Uhhhhm I can take my rear sight out by hand with about as much pressure as pushing a bullet from a full magazine, so I'm guessing that's not normal.....
There is no real reason to stake an adjustable windage device that moves anyways. . .it was staked as "proof" it was set "on center" . . . Staking is more important on something like a Luger Pistol Front sight , which is "shop" verified as centered, then marked as factory installed, checked and graded as finished. . . It's not making it any more immoveable., if you see a misaligned stake mark, it's telling a machinist the part is no longer at the factory suggested battery position. . .if a home installed rear sight with windage adjustment is a few thousands off center, the windage adjustment will compensate.
Staking, or upsetting, the dove tail is necessary for sights not to back out during firing. Many times replacing sights causes a gap issue necessitating the staking.
Used your video to source a real nice take-down tool thru Fulton Armory, $100, but worth it. not those stamping ones on Amazon. Did a WWII late style rear sight upgrade today on my Springfield Armory 1995 vintage M1 carbine receiver, with the entire carbine kitted for a Korea era look. Thanks.
I'm glad to know that should I purchase the new Inland model, I'm not stuck with the postwar adjustable sights!
If you don't stake the rear sight in place (adjustable type) in may move and change the location of your hits, that's if it doesn't fall out. A flip sight should be lightly chiseled into place. The receiver is heat treated but these minor modifications should be fine, just don't over due it. A black oxide finish, or rough green repark is a warning sign that the metal is brittle and beware.
I have a bent steel plate that fits over the flip sight. I don’t know if it was a tool they made for installation, or if it was just a visual gauge to show when the flip was centered on the heel of the receiver. Keep it in my box of carbine specific tools.
Sounds like the template to locate the type II or III adjustable sights form an existing flip sight. Keep it, its a cool part of the history of the M1 Carbine.
I was in the Marines 67-70, We never staked anything, I would not do it, it is nice to know the rear sight dovetail must be tapered, left to right to remove and right to left to install...
I have a April of '44 Winchester carbine and I've been debating ,but I think I'm going to do it. I removed the bayonet lug and that went real well. Nice video.
Glad it worked for you!
Thanks man, this was a huge help to me. My sight was really fucking tight going in, but it's in nice and straight and it sure as shit isn't coming out. Thanks again!
How about Zeroing one with the flip up rear sight? How exactly is that accomplished?
Zeroing is done on the short range, forward position. Depending on the rifle and how many rebuilds it will take some time. With a flip it is very difficult for windage. Elevation adjustments are done with the front sight height which is always best to start out with a tall post. Corrections cna then be made by filling it down. If an adjustable rear sight windage adjustment is very easy as well as elevation.
Have you ran into any m1 shooting to the right. Been reading about bent barrels and also moving the rear sight over to the left
Semi-autos, especially the M1, are very different than bolt guns. There are many different parts especially up front. If a barrel was bent that much there would be functioning issues. All the righting right should be correctable with the front sight sitting on a wide gas cylinder and the rear sight.
Any suggestions?? The adjustable rear sight on my Rockola receiver is loose. Any idea what I need to do to keep the sight in place??
Depending if you have a flip sight or an adjustable. Flips are chiseled slightly on the dovetails just to the side of sights x4 total but usually the 2 to the right side will do it. If its an adjustable the sight needs to be staked in place unsetting the receiver dovetail in the notches made in the sight.
Im working on one that has a rear notch sight but it is loose (moves left and right). Should I just use a punch to stake it back in place?
I would strip the rifle down and use a blunt punch, not a pointed.
...very helpful. I'm just getting started on M1's....seems to be very addictive. Question: if there is a need to stake a sight or pin will a punch (with reasonable force) work on the heat treated parts?
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Can you elaborate on staking the sight? Perhaps do a video on that? My rear sight is very loose too
There is a notch cut into the adjustable rear sights . This is where you should stake the receiver dovetail into it lightly. Google the photos and you can see where and how hard to do it.
Is it possible to remove the adjustable sight on a universal m1 so I can put a early type flip sight on it?
I don't know but I do know they are close. Always buy a cheap repro flip, $40ish. If you have to file anything, file the sight.
Links to where to by a rear sight tool, and the flip sight rear sight item?
I have no specific but Amazon or eBay should work. The one I use is not made any more.
Now, how do you remove the rear sight without having the rear sight removal tool? I can’t see paying $50-$100 for a tool that I will only use once.
It can be drifted out with a punch or wood form left to right but this will usually 99% of the time make marks on the finish, damage the site, or actually break the dovetail of the receiver. I recommend borrowing, renting, or buying and reselling to ensure nothing is damaged.
You need to get a staking tool (special punch) and stake it in place by hitting the receiver near the sight causing it to constrict. Hope that helps.
So I am here because I bought a redfield scope mount with a flip peep sight for M1 carbine. The rear end that should have a dovetail is flat. Dose anyone have ANY ideas ?
Sorry but I don't.
If you don't stake the rear sight there is a chance of the sight moving during firing. You can try it but be prepared to look for your sight on the ground.
Who makes the rear sight removal tool??
I don't think anyone makes them anymore. I have see some on eBay but I cannot attest to how well they work, if at all.
@@norwich93CMP Matrix makes the tool. Sixty buck$$.
I just ordered a Matrix Rear Sight Remove/Install tool, it appear to have a sight spacer with it...
Did not see any wings/spacers on EBAY...
Did it work for you ?
@@johnjones1805 Hi, have not used it yet...
do the old stake marks show or are they covered up by the spring?
+nick eaton Depends on how many, how heavy stacked, and the location. Usually if you turn to the side they can be seen since the spring does not sit on top of the receiver.
Last year, my dad gave me his WW II era M-1. I took it to the range and then returned it to its case. A couple of months later, I took it out again and, low and behold, the rear sight was missing! I thought, gee, it must have fallen out. I was able to get a new sight and install it by using a wooden block and hammer. Between that experience, and seeing this video, it is clear that the sight was stolen, and did not fall out.
My only remaining question is, is there anything I need to do to make sure the sight does not move under recoil? Never mind; I read the comments, below.
+BillBoy Baggins The range where I "lost" the sight was the DEEP range in Glastonbury.
+BillBoy Baggins I can't find a staking tool on E-Bay. Will have to look elsewhere.
I have a few m1 carbines, inlands. Not sure If I would like the peep site as I get older my eyes seem to get worse! I cant even shoot over 100 yards anymore through irons with my m1a. Is there manufacture of upper hanguard rails that I could mount an optic?
davekell36 Yes they make them look on GunBroker or Brownells.
Hi Norwich,
I was wondering why my rear sight on my Universal M1 Moves so much. I do not think its staked into place. How do you perform this operation?
Thanks
Hi Norwich93: Can you tell me where you got the "spacer" block from that you didn't use for this install? You showed it to us, but put it on the side. Thanks, Rick
I like your vids, but I missed something. How do you know it's CENTERED properly?
By eye. But centered does not equal sighted in properly. Before staking the rifle should be test fired and adjusted left or right dependent on the bullet strikes. Once on target it should be staked, or chiseled, into place then no matter the centering on the receiver. I hope that helps.
@@norwich93CMP O.K. Thanks for coming back so quickly.
@@norwich93CMP O.K. Thanks for getting back to so quickly. Also, where do get all those wonderful tools?
That spacer is a USGI and a part of the issued tool set for use only with the stamped type rear sight, not the milled type. Other improvised spacers will work like a few expired credit cards. Hoe that helps.
Question: It looks as if you removed the better of the 2 sights. The first sight is fully adjustable for windage and elevation.Right?
Most collectors want to restore their rifle to the as issued condition. Most cabines had the flip style sights on them when they came out of the factory.
@ ftgsk See the comments I posted below. Basically you need to stake it in place, not too hard with a special tool.
From where did you get the tool used to remove/install the rear sight?
I think it was Nick Daily in CO.
+BBStudioProductions Cannot remember I think form a guy in Colorado. He doesn't have a website.
excellent video bro well done,thanks and more power....
Uhhhhm I can take my rear sight out by hand with about as much pressure as pushing a bullet from a full magazine, so I'm guessing that's not normal.....
Well done, Thanks for this info....
+peter nelligan Thank you Sir.
Where can I get that tool?
Thanks and a Happy New Year!
The blue plastic thing only lasted two turns.
Think leather works nice too.
so long story short: remove left to right, attach right to left.
ebay has them all the time
There is no real reason to stake an adjustable windage device that moves anyways. . .it was staked as "proof" it was set "on center" . . . Staking is more important on something like a Luger Pistol Front sight , which is "shop" verified as centered, then marked as factory installed, checked and graded as finished. . . It's not making it any more immoveable., if you see a misaligned stake mark, it's telling a machinist the part is no longer at the factory suggested battery position. . .if a home installed rear sight with windage adjustment is a few thousands off center, the windage adjustment will compensate.
Staking, or upsetting, the dove tail is necessary for sights not to back out during firing. Many times replacing sights causes a gap issue necessitating the staking.
Good info. Thanks!
Left Leave - Right Return
?
Now you’ve lost your ability to adjust for windage
Don't tell those people in Kentucky. At the factor they were set up for windage, never heard of issue with it.
Nick Dailey at: folcmote(at sign)aol.com