WHAT WAS I THINKING??? | STAIN GRADE Split-jamb Doors???
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- Опубліковано 22 лип 2024
- In this video we take a look at installing stain grade split jamb doors. I show you how the jamb master works with split jamb doors. We look at the pros and cons of split jambs and why I chose to use split jambs in this trim package vs standard flat jamb doors. I give some key installation trips and tricks for installing split jambs. Finally, we talk about the cost difference in split jamb vs flat jamb doors.
00:00 - Intro
01:58 - Does the Jamb Master Work with Split-jamb Doors?
03:39 - The Pros of Split-Jamb Doors
10:04 - The Cons of Split-jamb Doors
14:47 - Stain Grade vs Paint Grade Doors
15:58 - What size nail should I use?
17:17 - Tip #1 - Tips for Trim Nailer Technique
18:50 - Tip #2 - Getting Perfect Door Margins
21:20 - Tip #3 - Prevent Door Sagging With This Trick
23:06 - Bonus Tip - Door Hinge Alignment Trick
25:54 - The Costs of Split-jamb vs Flat-jamb
29:38 - My Most Important Door Install Tip
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Pro tip when installing split jambs: if the bottom of the jamb has to be installed proud of the Sheetrock, shim the Sheetrock out accordingly the entire side to avoid a gap behind the casing. Make note of shim locations of nailing. This is the equivalent of a tapered extension Jamb on solid jambs.
Interesting tip. I've never tried that but it does make sense.
I think your channel has the highest frequency of my mind being blown per video I've watched.
Well done sir. Thank you sharing your skills with the rest of us.
Wow, thank you!
@InsiderCarpentry Better than conspiracy theory channels lol!
I hope your 2023 finishes strong and happy! Enjoy the holiday season!
Just like the Gary Katz video “ take a single jack, a scrap piece of wood, and smack that bottom plate over to correct cross legged openings” The tip is worth its weight in gold! Thanks spencer for your highly knowledgeable channel. your channel is one of my favorite channels on UA-cam.
In the summers of 1967 and 1968, I worked at Rock Island Millwork (now gone) in Fort Dodge, IA. Assembled lots of split-jamb doors! The worst were the oak or birch jambs! This was before variable speed drills.... snapped lots of screws trying to drill into the hard-wood jambs to assemble the hinges. Jambs were assembled in an adjustable jig that operated by compressed air. Assembly of the jambs and headers was done by pneumatic stapler firing 2-inch staples. Trim was applied by a smaller pneumatic stapler firing 1-inch staples. Miter cuts were made by a chop-saw on a 90-degree frame. Slits were cut in the corners of the trim into which was tapped a metal clip to hold them together and flush with the corners. Was getting lots of criticism for bad miter cuts until I discovered the horizontal pin on with the saw pivoted had disengaged from one side of the frame! Re-set the pin and problem fixed. Actually quite progressive for 1967-68. Once I got back from the military in fall of '70, Rock Island was defunct...so had no job to which I could return. Worked out anyway...!! Jamb and trim profiles look somewhat different from the profiles I remember on the split jambs I assembled! Summer of '67, earned $1.75 and hour! Summer of '68, pay went to $2.48 an hour! Big money!!
Many of us do not know or forget how much of understanding the physics and mechanics sticks behind properly installing any door. This is a great learning example that can be applied from the cheapest HD hollow core to something like this higher end stain grade door. Thanks for sharing Spencer! As always a bunch of tips for DIYers and PROs as well. One tip that stood out for me is the screw behind the middle hinge. I learned that from you a while ago, applied it on my previous builds and it brings another level of precision and reliability for install. Besides all of that a quick compliment on new year changes in video production. We see you got a videographer. I am sure that is much easier for you now. Am surprised that Mr Risinger and The Build show did not approached you already.!? You are an institution for your self. Hope it stays that way. All the best! 💪👊
No kidding he should be a contributor to the build show network
@@loganpatterson4674 Pretty sure Spencer doesn't need to be giving a cut to Matt..
Just my honest opinion here, but I think Spencer is on a whole better level that Matt Risinger and the build show and the ones that attribute to it. Don’t get me wrong, Matt and his guys are awesome, but Spencer is an amazing finish carpenter and Matt would just profit off his work. Would get Spencer’s subscriber count way up tho I’m sure
@@terencemerritt I think the quality of this channel would go down if Spencer joined the build show. Seems like every time Matt opens his mouth he's delivering propaganda for the "latest and greatest" building material. My man is a walking advertisement. Spencer does a great job of showing his audience the finest of details of trim carpentry, which is why I watch him
No need to compare Spencer to Matt, they each have their own thing going on.
Good info as always. Back in the 70's and 80's when stained trim was still the rage up here in Maine, if we used split jambs, we always took apart the jamb and stained the jambs tounge before we installed them.
Because Maine is the pine tree state, most of the trim was always pine. Because of the humidity swings sometimes the the jamb spits would shrink so much in the winter, you may see a line that wasn't stained before installation no matter how many nails were put in.
Once again I am in awe of your attention to detail and your concern for your clients. Like you I am OCD about perfection which has rendered me a "1 Man Crew" because I can't find helpers who will take a vested interest in a properly completed project. Thanks Spencer for all your quality advice and teachings.
I love learning to be better at my trade and your excellent videos are the impetus for that advancement. Thank you for taking the time and effort to share your skills and knowledge, Spencer.
A fellow tradesmen saw my deck of playing cards in my tool cart and asked what they are used for. I replied simply, "black magic."LOL.
This is just an off the wall comment. I watch a few carpentry type channels on UA-cam. I started my building career in 1975 and have been doing it up until a month ago when I was told by my doctor I had to retire.
When I started when we built a house, we built a house. We framed and pored the footing, Ww set panels and pored the foundation. The same crew framed, sheathed, sided and roofed the house. We contracted out the insulation and drywall if it was more than a 1000 square foot house otherwise, we did that too. The same crew did all the trim and cabinet work too. We did our own roofing too. In other words, we built a house.
If the door or window rough openings weren't perfect, we had no one to blame but ourselves. All of the walls had studs 16" on center and the roof rafters were all 16" on center. When you installed base board or crown or chair rail, we knew that once we found 1 stud, joist or rafter, you just had to pull your tape and nail on the 16" marks.
All of my contractor friends still do it the same way today other than most sub out the foundation, insulation and drywall no matter the size of the job.
Great video. I never saw split jamb doors until 6 years ago. When I first started back in '77 we were working with prefinished Oak trim and mortising the hinges with a jig and router. Everything was hand nailed. What a difference these make now.
i was so ready to fire off a comment about "dont forget you can hit your walls with a framing axe" (the back of an axe head is about the same size as a two by) but then you came through in the clutch and mentioned it. your videos are great for hitting the pro level details, it lets me know im on the right track. noticed you are doing some pedantic explaining here and there (the jamb fudge factor explanation early on) while i dont need that laymen level of explain, someone surely does. you do a fantastic job, in videos and work flow.
Great technique. It's great to see someone striving for perfection in all situations. Thanks Spencer.
Great professional attitude toward helping understanding for DIY'ers & growing/teaching trim carpenters slide up to the next level. Enjoy yur videos. Stay safe & carry on!👏👍🪚🔨😊
What a thorough explanation! I'm a lay person and I certainly appreciate the added explanations.
Its impressive to see the dedication to delivering a high quality result. Great job, I hope they pay you well
One of your best videos ever this was very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for your time. I’m learning a lot from your video! Again, thank you for your valuable time!
It’s essentially a corrugated fastener.
To try to lighten the purple in the poplar, you could use wood bleach to see how much of it can be pulled out
Great tutorial. The playing card trick is a finesse tip. The sledge hammer is a trim carpenters secret solution for perfect door installs.
Thanks for sharing.
Playing card tip is priceless. Thanks you.
Another great one Spence!
First time hearing about fixing squareness of the framing before drywall... great advice Thanks!!
Great video! We use mostly split jamb doors in our market. We have struggled with the door shop making margins huge on a couple of houses. You are at the mercy of the door shop. Loved the tip about getting in before dry wall with the sledge and the level! Really appreciate you Spencer thanks for the content!!! Keep it up!
I wish more of the clients in our area were open to stain grade products. Alot of customers still want the plain hollow core pre hungs from local hardware stores. I would love to try some split jams!
And as Spencer pointed out at the end, THE most important thing that he does is go around to his door openings pre-drywall and correct for cross-leggedness. I agree 100%!
Spencer, great video as always and congrats on getting a videographer/editor to work with you! This ups your UA-cam game quite a bit and I look forward to seeing some more shots with camera motion, closeups, etc.
On another note, I used your trick of cutting back the drywall when it's proud of the door jamb and then using some spacers to get the right compound angle at the miter corners of the casing. It worked great and my client couldn't tell (which is what matters at the end of the day). Thanks for that great tip, and thanks for your contribution to the carpentry trades!
Thanks for another well thought out video. Using a good door shop for any prehung door (especially split-jambs) is so important. Too many shops have bad procedures in place, unmotivated employees, and poor QC. I usually prefer to hang flat-jamb units, but split jambs have been a real life saver on some renovation jobs with cross-legged ROs and varying wall thicknesses.
Great tips, brother! Appreciate you
I grew up in construction and am a general myself, running the family business with my brother. I have never even heard of a split jamb nor have I seen one or even demoed one. So this was super informative and it’s good to see other techniques and the tips that go along with it. When we learn together it makes us all better. Thanks for sharing! God bless
Very impressive. Great you are taking advantage of modern technology.
Great video really like the explanation of the door physics
Another great video. I appreciate the content which you articulate the craft so well. Im one of the old school finish carpenters and never installed a split jamb or even aware of a local supplier that offers them. I can see it has some advantages for the reasons you specified, especially for stain grade applications.
I process my doors/jambs onsite conventionally because Im a bit OCD myself and want total control of all aspects of fitment and trim. Being able to process doors with a proper door bench, having the right power tools and wide range of hardware jigs gives me the advantage over the competition.
Pro tip, I always use temp hinges to save the painter from masking tape peel back or sandpaper scratches. Don't like all the paint buildup behind hinges if they take them off to spray.
Thank you again for another great video. I wish I had half the knowledge you have forgotten 😀. Keep up the great work.
Spenser, awesome video as always. I think I would rather install stain grade split jams over the big box store mdf garbage. I tried using your screw behind the hinge technique on a MDF split jam. The hinge wouldn't screw back in to flush because the mdf deformed. I ended up installing a whole new one. I appreciate you for sharing your tips and tricks and your level of detail and quality!
Spencer uploaded a new video, it’s now a good day!
Thanks for making this video.
We only install split jam. We always order them without the trim. Build the trim (like you do) as on piece for both sides using CA glue. We lay the door hinge side down on a work table. Apply the assembled trim, pull the male split out, and set aside. Flip door to hinge side up, install the trim on this side. Install as normal. Works great with 6/8 and up.
This dude is as good as it gets.
Great video never used split jam. This might be a good door for my next project.
Wow! I haven't installed one of them in decades. I think you made a good choice in view of the casing & base being the same thickness. You do good work. It's so refreshing to watch your videos and see someone care about their work.
I typically work on remodels and often machine doors on site. Even when I do pre-hung flat jambs, I never get the opportunity to plumb up the opening before drywall. Sure wish I did.
you could prolly still wack the bottom plate over w/ drywall on it, just put a crap piece of trim in as a beater board
Spencer you are the master !
Spencer, Corrugated nails are behind those miters. I've been a builder since 1973, I was never a fan of those. Love your channel!
That corrugated fastener can be installed using a Senco Senclamp gun. I've used it for pre-assembling faceframes for cabinets and wall paneling/wainscot. It is very effective on glued butt joints. You need to clamp your pieces together and flat down on a rigid surface. You cannot merely hold with one hand and fire with the other. One issue can be material splitting where the fastener is applied, but it's a great way to quickly assemble non-machined joints.
Pinch dogs is the name of the clamp you’re thinking of. At least that’s what I was told it’s called. Awesome video and appreciate the insight
Love the card at the bottom of hinge I've used cardboard I never thought of a card damn it thanks another lesson learned
Awesome info/tips.
Hey Spencer, Thanks for this amazing video. Im about to install a custom stain grade slab into an existing opening. Have to mortisse the hinge slots, the lock and the stricker slot. Gonna be interesting since 90% of my door installs here have MDF trim. Im in Washington state. I would love to work more with the stain grade material but i guess the market here is different.
This is why,I spec a quirk or a 1/8 recess or proud at those joints. Architects live in models lol. Good on you for the catch on that.
Hi Spencer , i believe those nails holding the mitre , at 45 degs to the cut .are corrugated nails which we use in AUS to nail manhole openings with , oops now person hole architrave trim around access to roof space.
Would love a vid on how you would install doors without a jamb master.
Ey Spencer you probably talking about corrugated nails , excellent video 👍🏼
This was a great video much appreciated
Those are some great looking door units! Would love to be able to get quality like this in central Arkansas.
Great show. love it.
Used to do a lot of split jamb steel doors. Nice to know they're available in stain grade. Just got to the end. Bored and mortisted a jamb, lockset door the other day, old house and custom. Canadian eh.
I also carry playing cards for shimming, but I've found a better way to correct the margin you talk about here.
It may be different with the jamb master, but I like to add a shim behind the lower hinge after nailing off the hinge side. I close the door after nailing the hinge side and check that margin, slide a shim in place and give it a light tap. It opens the margin below the lower hinge and ensures it can't collapse in the future.
We use staple clips to frame picture frames, the machine would clamp down each side together the cuts are 45 degree and when pressing the pedal a second time the clip slide straight up As you move it up. The staple clips comes in different size to accommodate different size molding thickness.
@12:45 you’re most likely talking about a V-NAILER… used a lot in picture framing…
-I use a corrugated nailer… mainly on wainscoting, cabinets and such… way faster and easier than pocket holes…
•PRO TIP: If you’re going to do any amount of Wainscoting, get yourself a corrugated nailer you won’t regret it
I've been known to take a block and a hand sledge and tap the wall plumb or near, and toenail a couple 3s in the plate.
That is a pretty cool, thanks for the info
13:05 V-NAILS, some say Underpinning, picture frame nails
btw- WYND is Term I was taught for jambs out of plumb.
Killer video bro!
Like always!
Detailed this is what I’m doing on a Friday night!
Wife is at doing a girls conference thing
I’m watching UA-cam door videos😂
Home Lumber does an awesome job of cutting and installing casing on split jamb door frames. I have used them for years without problems in quality and craftsmanship. Their wood door department is impressive and we are lucky to have them in this market area.
I've had some struggles with them over the years, but for the most part its been a positive experience. If a problem arises they take my complaints seriously and try to correct them.
As usual...another GREAT video. What is the link for the "Stepped" measurement gauge tool you're using? I remember seeing it when you were cutting window trim on your miter where you were explaining how to compensate for differences between drywall and window jambs.
You the man!
Wow I didn't even know they still made split jambs, haven't installed them in over 30 years.
You spoke of your door shop…
Recently we ordered doors (17 stain grade), from a different shop than we normally use. Doors arrive with the door jamb being built to the exact width and height of the actual door, no bevel on the strike side, a true nightmare. We had to disassemble the jambs buy new split jambs, replacing the top, and trimming the door tops. The supplier can ruin a job. Wound up getting a $3,500 rebate from the door company.
You mean nail plates,
Re space at top of door; hoping that you have enough space is ok but installing a stain grade door without space at the top strike side or any where along the strike side in winter, low humidity season is another sin but more importantly a recipe for a call back,, so if you have to plane or sand that edge better to do it before the unit is finished. The good thing about stain film thickness and paint film thickness is that stains film thickness is thinner so you can keep that in mind when planning the door. Although it doesn't happen a lot in new construction there are jambs/doors that require planning more than the thickness of the mortise depth of the hinges or the strike plates. In that case I bite the bullet and plane the hinges side first then reset the hinge mortises rather than haver to elongate the bore for the lock set, the tolerances of which are particularly fussy. Good video and since stain grade installations are few and far in-between these days most young carpenters don't have the opportunities to improve their sg skills. Back in the day, specially in the upscale developments about 1 out 5 of all the installations where stain grade simply because of the availability of quality material. The magic skill that could make or break a carpenter was his ability to use a finish hammer and install oak or birch trim without littering the surface with hammer head craters and all the while driving 16d finish nails into the stud side of the trim. If it wasn't for the advent of the finish nailer becoming widely available in the late 60s I don't think I would have lasted as a "finish man"
Great video!! thank you
corrugated fasteners is what you were looking for on the miters
Great video. Maybe instead of a playing card use laminate samples from the big box store. Easy to score and snap. Probably the same thickness of the folded card .
I'm doing an office build now and I wish I would have checked the framing first. Half of the jamb studs were out enough that drywall needed to be removed.
i'm primarily a framer and try to put my wall jams at 1/8 tolerance or better and pick out my kings and jacks. trades like coming in after me and i get referrals from them. you do great work and these tips help us all. but remodeling you don't have the option to bang things around. could you show us some bad openings and your solutions or when you have to come in behind a lesser trim carpenter?
Hi Spencer,could you please talk about how far in you router your hinge pockets from the edge of the jamb?and how do you handle the jamb legs if your floor is not level,do you cut one of them or do you just lift one leg to level?By the way the jambmaster is way faster than traditional shimming for us,specially on those old buildings cripple studs.Cheers from your Canadian friends,Toronto!!
I think you make a good video it does a lot of good for people getting in. Its still a no on the split jamb and its a bigger no on letting anyone else select the grain match for me. I've run a lot of oak and not only do you grain match on a piece but you grain match within the room or floor and some pieces just shouldn't be used or saved for the closets. Also a big no on ever having base the same thickness as casing, even if its an 1/8 difference to see the eased edge carry to the floor gives the eye definition IMO. Surprised on the 45s, would like to see a butt joint with thicker head. Cutting trim goes quicker with 3 saw set up.
I just installed a trim package last week and I built a jig to route my shims like the jambmaster and it made installing those split jamb so much easier. I would have purchased the jambmaster but it wasn't going to arrive in time for me to use it. Next time I have a trim package to install I will be ordering one. How many shim do you recommend for a 6'8" door and is there anything you recommend I order to go with the jambmaster kit. Thanks for all the useful information you share. I have been a builder for over 20 years and I learn something every time I watch you video.
I have 7 templates per size. I use seven on the hinge side and six for the strike side. I would order extra templates, extensions for 8' doors if you install them, and the extensions for 4/0,5/0,6/0.
fantastic
Personally- I always cut and glue up my casing for the pull side of the door ahead of installing it. After the glue sets I attach it to the pull side of the door frames and set the door and frame similar to using split jamb frames.
I've been doing split jambs for years because I use salvaged materials. So easier to get 2 thinner boards than a single wide boards,
Can you comment about pre-staining the door assemblies before installation? It would seem easier to put all doors on site in one dust free room whose drywall has a coat of primer, then stain them.
Excellent Information + Video Work.... Spencer ....More than 10 ways to skin a cat for Spencer......Yes loads of information many many many years ago there was a TV show called the "Twilight Zone" (showing my age) Start of the "Twilight Zone" narrative = "It is an excursion into the odd and very very different" Could be your video Spencer. Think in the early shows there was a door * frame + door floating in space.(should have this at the start of your videos) Yes in the past I have ordered roughly 700 doors (paint grade frames) for approx 30 houses all pre-hung doors along with locks drilled out. not great quality but like you have said yourself you cannot compete price wise and as for fitting it is quicker for carpenters to run through a house banging in the frames. Yes it works. On site work have went the other way cutting fitting hinges only with hammer and chisel no power tools. Would hang 30 doors between 8 am and 3pm . Have worked on traditional brick block houses it could take nearly all day to try fix door frames from bad brick/blockwork you would need to be from the magic circle to fix many Door frames. Like the idea of the split frames for many reasons very good video .....Take care one and all.
Spencer, i am curious, when you straighten up your jamb openings before drywall. Do you only adjust the studs beside the door or the whole wall? If you only adjust the jamb, isn't it possible to throw the wall out of a straight line that you could see a curve in the skirting or benchtops? Just curious. Carpenter in Australia
I have never used poplar to stain. Maple was used for paint and stain. Wondering how they deal with the super dark spots on the trim.
I think you are taking about V-nails for miters. They are used in picture frames production
Do you ever cut off the bottom of the jambs? so you can adjust for out of level floors and/or different types of flooring.
Spencer, love the discussion. Question: will you be installing crown moulding in that vaulted room?? I am VERY interested in how you install crown moulding with ceiling in another plane ((angled, vaulted etc). I worked on houses in Dallas destroyed by tornadoes and the guys did not have a clue on how to calculate it. Thanks.
I sure ain't no Spencer, but, I do know that neat little crown moulding on different planes trick. Learned it last year and it worked great.
Don't know how to share it here though. Takes all my techie brain just to write this! Is there a different way to share it with ya?
I'm pretty sure "splines" is the word for the metal tabs you were looking for that hold the miters together
so my question is : why nobody shoots nails along the wood grain, which I believe that suppose to be done on stain grade trim ?
I have installed a crap load of pre-finished split jambs on commercial/ rental homes and apartments. They are extremely fast and makes a huge difference when trimming out. I usually just plumb up my RO on the hinge side then hang the door and tack it in place with the trim then shim the remaining legs of the jamb.
A door wouldn't last in your house if a woman lived in it, you need more than nails
@@davidlynch2443 I finish nailing and screw through the hinge plate after the shims are in. I should have said that I guess instead of assuming folks knew what I meant when I said tacking the trim. My bad.
I want to see you hang a door from scratch 😬 fit the jamb, cut out the hinges, scribe the door, swing it, fit the door stops and drill out the handle. Great vidya, very different to Aussie carpentery!
I'm old enough to remember when we typically did that as the norm here in the states. Once set up, it goes pretty quick. You have better control of the end product also.
@@muddywater6856 Exactly, I'd have damn anxiety attack with the pre hung set up haha.
Yes I would install split jamb doors makes quality work
What is the link to gauge you showed?
Either way for an optimal result is, it takes time. Whether it's on the front end in preparation or on the back end from rushing and having to come back and fix something.. take the time to do it right. You'll sleep better at night.😁
Hi Spencer
The corrugated fasteners can be shot by an airgun but there's also a machine called an underpinned thats used for picture frames. I am lucky to have the Hoffman mu2 when I do prefinished trim ,if painted a biscuit with 5min pu glue and Jim's trusty clam clamps!
Prehungs are great if site conditions are correct ie. Walls plumb , floors level, opes the right width and height, and here in Ireland it's mostly masonry walls so whacking a crossed leg wall back into plumb is not an option like you I think I suffer a bit from ocd
When they started to get popular here some some contractors thought these are are simple the labourer can fit them.!
Like you mentioned a lot depends on the standards exercised by shops supplying them , i have often come across hinge bound doors also in these times of short supply they make up the frames and when the ďoors arrived they might be a couple of mm wider or narrower.
I hate to be sounding negative but I much prefer to make and fit my own frames and when the need arises i can groove the frame to take an adjustable piece.
If your ope is cross-legged and as the casing is fixed to the frame ,call back the framer.
Thanks for your valuable time spent making these excellent videos
Regards Liam
You say you use 5 min pu glue. Are you talking hot melt polyurethane ( HIpur) ?
Not hipur
The stuff I use is a brand called soudal comes in bottles 5min 30min and 45min i clean the squeeze out with wet wipes anything else can be picked off when it sets
I know some would say to use superglue and activator ok for lighter situations but sodalite is bullet proof ,i have tried to break mitres and it really stands up to pressure! You have to be careful to keep the cap on the bottle as the glue reacts with the air and quickly clogs up the whole bottle.
I have searched here in Ireland 🇮🇪 for hipur but with no luck, where on the planet are u based? I hope my method may be of some use to you
Liam
@@Joyjoiner I'm in upstate New York in the U.S. I'm able to get Hipur.
Coro gator is the tool that joins the trim
Split Jambs are twice as fast on the install without a doubt. However I must say the split jamb doors in my area are terrible from the door plant. Just crappy work. I use the tapered shims and it seems to go just fine for me.
We can't even get split jambs. Still cut and install jamb, hang door, cut lock and catch, cut and install door stops, cut and install casing both sides.. I use 15g on jambs and 18g on architrave.
By using the jamb master, do you ever have to cut the hinge side or the strike plate side to get it to line up with the strike plate? I watch your videos religiously and I have never seen you cover this point. The reason I ask, is that obviously I'm a trim carpenter and I'm thinking about spending the money for a jamb master. Your help would be welcome.
Just do it! Get two extra templates as well. Fabulous folks up there to work with. He's correct...the most addicting tool ever. Mine topped out around 700 bucks for the Jambmaster. Oh, and just buy three of those 7/8" router bits....trust me. LOL!
Any reason you hide a screw behind the hinge rather than using a longer screw on the hinge’s middle hole?
Is it just to ensure that it hits the shim?
For me, the painters will remove them, and not replace them where needed....
Were can I find a Jamb Master jig? I really think this will help me with all my issues with hanging doors with shims and more shims.
You can order by phone via the jamb master website.
More than an ounce of truth!