Not sure if you read many of these comments, Spencer, but I want you to know that your approach to your trade has had an incredible impact on how I approach my trade. I own and operate a residential mechanical contracting business and since I started watching your channel in 2018, I have made a conscious effort to organize and streamline the way I work and do business. Even though we are in different trades, thanks for teaching the art of working well. Take care!
This is kind of why I became a GC. Started doing finish carpentry, but figured if I framed and managed the job, by the time finish came around everything would be just that much tighter. This attention makes for an all around much better build too as the things you find could affect other finish trades as well. I work in an expensive market with almost no new construction and pretty old housing stock, so big framing jobs like that are unheard of and there’s not many framing specialists. Finish specialists yes, but most are GCs so they’ll often do what little framing there is in a remodel. So it’s all pricey remodels and additions. Even on larger additions, framing may take a week or so and finish often much longer. And yeah, ounce of prevention, pound of cure. I say a day spent planning is worth a week on the job. I had a colleague who used to drive me crazy when we’d work together. First day on a job he’s running right out of the gates while I’m saying “easy tiger, put your bags down and let’s do a walkthrough and come up with a plan.” He never listened and it almost always cost us. “I’m a good problem solver” he’d always say. I could never quite convince him not to cause problems to begin with. Still close friends, but we don’t work together anymore.
Hi Spencer! I have tried to make comments to carpenters who have been using the same system for 30 years trying to convince them that there are a little easier ways so that in the process of installing the trim in a house everything flows smoother, but unfortunately it's possible to change the mindset of people who feel they know everything even without trying to implement a new technique.Very good techniques and as I always say "the secret is in the preparation"
Some of the high end homes we trim we also install bathroom medicine cabinetry that is set flush with the drywall. This means there has to be a rough opening before the drywall is installed. Lots of times the home owner hasn't even picked out the bathroom cabinets . Now we make sure there's no plumbing or electrical above the vanities. It's a big headache after the fact.
Excellent content as always. You're setting future trade and finish carpenters up for success and we need more of it. We've been using the 360 cameras at multiple stages of our builds, and the info has become invaluable to us as we do trim, cabinets, base etc. We can pan around and see everything that was in the wall before drywall. On critical stuff we pull tape measure and have that in picture for reference. Appreciate all you do.
Our new home was completed last year. No one, the builder or the framer was going to put in blocking for the TP holders as they said they would be fine it drywall - I disagreed, so I did it and then marked where I wanted them mounted. I also did that because I felt very strongly that the TP holder locations in many houses are way too close to the toilets not giving enough room for your legs. The details matter, a lot! I also ran most of the network wiring for the house.
I always throw a block on either side of the studs around where baseboard diffusers are going to be. Gives you some meat for the diffuser screws and more importantly I have something to shoot my base to where I butt to the vents
Really nice job of bringing the build concepts together.... something I've done sporadically in the past.... never hurts to be reminded....also great editing of the lists
Excellent video. It’s refreshing to see the forethought you put into your work. Surprisingly, it isn’t that common. As a homeowner who had to rebuild after a wildfire, I got to see first hand every step of this process. I geeked out on it a bit by watching channels like yours and so many other trades, I probably irritated my GC. In the long run, it really saved a lot of headache. I identified so many problems before drywall that if I hadn’t been so involved and informed, would have been a nightmare to redo. I did this exact thing by marking and photographing everything and sure enough, when I came back after drywall, was able to identify several areas the drywall crew covered up. Even though I kept my GC on his toes, he was appreciative I had done this ahead of time.
Spencer this one is fantastic! I’m slowing down and taking less work these days. I hope the next generation is watching these & will do steps like this, other builders will see this and hire them for their better jobs. I absolutely love how you’re educating your viewer.
Respect to your productive and precision craftsmanship. As a finish carpenter/marriage counselor your clips have been a timesaver for me. I have referred clients to your site and had good results with conveying the difference between quality and DIY theories.
Also always check the pocket door track to ensure the framers actually installed it level most times they just screw it on assuming the header is level or that the trim guy can fix it if not by adjusting the pocket door wheels... Stair riser heights is also a must, great video!! 👍
Super video Spencer! I know it doesn’t really effect the trim install but I always used to nail framing scraps around window areas for when the home owner attempts to hang blinds and curtains they hit wood instead of needing to use dry wall anchors. Same in the bath rooms for shower curtain rods.
As a former framer and current superintendent. We always did several things with door opening 1) plumb doorway 2 toe nail headers to assure they are flush with the bucks 3) toel nail plates or make sure bottom plates are solid 4) Also, while doing this, I would make sure it's nailed on the chalk line. Also, making sure bucks and king studs are flush and nailed correctly
Spence I just started doing some customs not really any track homes? Lots of cabinets and millwork in updates! However ! This is a huge in value video for a professional finish carpenter/ contractor! Thk you so very much Spence ; God bless you & yours!
Adding blocking seems not only convenient for yourself as the one installing hardware, but considerate for the future homeowner(s) in case they want to change styles of hardware. I’ve heard of contractors also installing 2x12 blocking for grab bars in bathrooms as well because people only get older, or for those who are physically handicapped. 3-0 doors openings are nice for that reason as well (besides having to move furniture in and out).
Btw, great video, as always! You give a lot of insight for those of us beginning in the trades! Always nice to think of the next step in the build, or looking after the next guy. An older boss of mine always used to tell us “we’re all in this together” and I couldn’t agree more.
They do. Back in the day, when we did a lot of nursing homes/ Ada stuff, the framers were " put" in blocking and " those guys" would cut out the blocking. I never figured out who those guys were, but I can tell you I have spent many hours putting blocking in after the fact.
@@MichaelCZUSA that’s smart too! I hate having to resort to drywall anchors for everything. Just feels like the lightest tug and everything will collapse
Love that you discussed LSL. I am a Territory Manager for Weyerhaeuser and my builders on the East Coast love these studs. Side note. Prior to my Weyerhaeuser career I was doing just what you are minus the videos. 37 years of trim carpentry. I would love to work with you one day!
Great video Spencer. I used to say “one should be putting the most energy in a project at the beginning so the job only gets EASIER as you proceed. “ Most do the opposite for some reason and spend so much time fixing, justifying their mistakes , or just leaving things screwed up.
Enjoyed your video and sharing of your knowledge. Was very interesting. I'm a recently retired industrial electrician from power plants of 33 years, so my knowledge of residential framing is very minimal. Excellent video!
Absolutely a true craftsman! Unfortunately in my area trim carpenters do not see the job site til after drywall or don’t care too. Always great content thanks Spencer
I like your idea of marking the studs, water lines and electrical wires on the floor with paint. Unfortunately, that wouldn’t work for us in our area. We are typically one of the last trades to get into a house, so there’s usually always either finished flooring or underlayment put down before we trim it out, so we wouldn’t be able to see the paint marks anymore. Glad it works for you, wish it would for us as I’m sure it would be very helpful and speed up the install.
Also how long are this guys nails? As a finish carpenter I’m under the impression that these wires/pipes are at a depth in the wall where I can’t reach with 1 3/4 nails. Guess I’ve been lucky last 10 years.
Great stuff! As to your "outlet/drywall cover up topic", that is big to me as a super. I hit all switches and outlets w/ paint prior to insulation making sure I hit the stud. The after insulation, I walk the insulated walls, cut open covered sparky bits and paint them again. Since starting this, sparky's almost never have to hunt, which means my trim boys see it too. Great job!
You need to do a vid on how exactly do you charge… Like what’s your breakdown on a bid… do you itemize everything i.e., doors, casing, baseboard, crown, etc… -For basic MDF 3.5” crown on 8’ ceilings I charge $7 per ft… and the same for baseboard because of all of kneeling & bending over… but if the owner wants miscellaneous stuff done, I like Wainscoting on one wall add a stool & apron to a picture framed window, etc… I would charge a minimum of $80 an hour… -Could you please give us a breakdown of how you bid a job?
This is amazingly useful -- thank you. A video about how to talk to other trades would be great, too. Like how to get junction boxes moved without the electrician getting riled up, or how to suggest improvements to the drywallers. Cheers
The reason the opening for pocket doors bows without the nailer on there isn't the weight of the drywall. It's the way the drywall mud dries and tightens up but you have the answer. Lock them things together
On my personal house, I also marked the hvac line-set on the exterior sheathing (zip) so the siding guys didn’t accidentally shoot a nail. But, Because I use zip my siding crew commented that they were basically able to hit a stud the majority of the time because they can see exactly where the studs were from the nail pattern on the sheathing. I also mark critical electrical areas (wire chases, and main service cable) with red spray paint. I have one doorway in my house that’s cross legged a little bit. Drives me nuts every time I close the door.
Solid content, Spencer. Actually did most of your checklist on the last custom house. Took a couple months working with the trades and all, as well as cabinet line changes. That house was perfectly setup by the time trim and doors were scheduled for delivery. I could have worked in a suit and tie. Unfortunately, through a short series of unforseen circumstances with the client, we were unable to do the work there. The couple divorced. Life is what it is sometimes. Again great content in your video. Absolutely appreciate all the effort you put forth to keep the high standard of our trade reachable.
As a cabinet installer I always move at least one electrical outlet (usuall a built-in),nailing plates over the single stud I can attach a narrow cabinet too. Waterline running through an area where a base is covering. Where plumbing an electrical runs in a horizontal plane, is my nemesis... nail plates. In ww2 the army had a protocol "Bring at least two solutions when you find a problem". I have started taking pictures pre-drywall whenever possible. Have also educated the paper GC firms we work for,and them taking pictures and noting where potential problems will be....is huge. Currently have 2 jobs going with issues. 1 gets true floating shelves with not tall enough blocking. The 2nd and different builder had a leak,of which caused us to(remove all plumbing and an electrical outlet) pull the 4ft long vanity with granite and sink installed..... in an already occupied home. The latter was not on-site,and offered no floor protection nor any support of any kind. Thanks for sharing your process Spencer. Specialized trades are becoming an issue when paper GC's are involved.
Hey mate, I love watching how other tradesmen go through the processes. I work in Australia and we do a lot of homes on polished concrete floors so we can't mark the floors. We install the framework and fix (trim) so we are aware of where the studs are. I take hundreds of photos too, these modern phones are great. Keep doing what you do 👍
Some really great points. As a volunteer with Habitat for Humanity, we do both framing and finish. Because of some of the problems we've had with finish, I try to head them off during framing. Trying to get other volunteers to follow thru can be a problem though. Thanks.
I volunteer with Habitat weekly. Our team often spends a good bit of time correcting or finishing work done by volunteer groups, but that’s what it is all about. It is great working with the volunteers, especially the females, who have never before touched a nail gun, a drill driver or a powered miter saw. Most learn quickly and love it. Habitat can always use retired folks interested in volunteering regularly and who are interested in or experienced in home construction.
Love the videos Spencer, true master caliber work. On most jobs we do, the unfinished oak flooring goes in before trim so the majority of the paint lines would be covered, I think its a smart idea but we'd have to go back and mark after the flooring is installed in order for it to help.
Same here James. It would be helpful for hanging cabinetry however. We’re finishing a reno right now where there are floating cabinets in all of the bathrooms, having this information right on the floor in front of us as we’re lagging everything in would have been very helpful.
@@chadsichello4267 As a cabinetmaker, I would want to be there before the drywall goes up and see that there is plenty of metal in the walls either for floating cabinets or floating shelves or I just wouldn't take on the job.
It is so beneficial to be able to walk a new home at this stage if it’s available to you. Unfortunately, for me, most of the time we are asked to estimate after the home has gone through the drywall phase.
I recently had LSL's installed in a double pocket door and one side warped. Interesting to here that it could be the drywall install that warped it. The carpenters had no idea why an LSL bent that bad.
Lots of valuable info here. Never have been able to fix that pocket door spreading out issue, I'll try a block next time. Thanks. I also look for light switches having enough space of there's big casing
I wish I would have known you were local when I built my house. I would have asked for you just like I asked to bring in an HVAC contractor who was experienced with geothermal. My builder needs to use more people like you who care deeply about their craft.
"This isn't necessarily my scope of work to watch out for, but it's something I'll note and relay to the project manager." This says so much about your and your character. I wish there were more people like you in the trades. Too many guys don't know, and don't care. I bring up issues all the time to builders and get treated like a nuisance. I'm trying to look out for you, and everybody else that's going to be screwed when this has to be redone later dude. There's a lot of builders out there, but few who actually care to build a quality home. I usually go through and use orange paint for all my electrical boxes, and anything else we could potentially cover up with drywall, so if you and I were on the same job it might get confusing. lol Interesting that they give you outlets in a new build like that. Here they usually don't even have the panel made up when we hang drywall. The electrical department won't connect power until the HVAC is finished so everyone is running off of a temp pole until then. That last part about how it's far easier, and costs less to fix these things ahead of time than it is to deal with them later is so true. You're wise beyond your years Spencer!
I'm a cabinetmaker, but often get to do some design work on homes. I'm always looking out for problems early on in the framing process. So many things might not be on the plans. Many times on a remodel I'm out there with my 8' level checking that wall studs are on the same plane. Most contractors don't really consider this to be important, but if you shim or plane a few studs it can make it a lot easier for everyone else down the road. I've noticed that when an old home has lath and plaster walls that are torn out and replaced by drywall, often some studs can be way off of the plane of the walls and need to be dealt with before the drywall goes up.
@@tomruth9487 One of my most used tools is a Dewalt cordless hand planer. These framers don't cull anything these days and use bowed lumber for Jack, and King studs which not only makes hanging the drywall suck, it makes it harder on the trim guy, which is also me on a lot of them. I'll plane down the high stud on one side and fill the void on the other side with glue.
@@rickysdrywall5288 Yeah, I can understand what you have to do. I usually fill with that paper or cardboard shims, have not tried glue but thanks for the tip.
@Ricky's Drywall I am a framer, and while I do not doubt your conclusion, sometimes the crap lumber you find is the best of what has been delivered to us! Lumber quality has gotten really bad!
I just found this channel today. Liked and subscribed. Great job! I'm building a riverfront home for my wife and I. We are in our late 50s.These types of pre-drywall videos are so helpful from so many aspects as I get great ideas how to do other aspects as well.
I thought that too but if you look close, and they are truly finger jointed studs I’m seeing, a lot of those are under point loads and in bearing walls. Never seen that before, but hey, I’m not an engineer.
They are vertical rated. Not to be used in horizontal bending. The knots and defects in typical studs are not good in compression. The jointed ones have less defects and are technically superior to natural studs.
I wish I had the opportunity to do things like this. I’m always rushed so hard and the boss has us do everything backwards and fix it later because he thinks it’s faster. I can’t tel you how many walls I’ve had to open up and patch for dumb reasons and there’s never anything to nail to lol
Hey Spencer - good heads up video! Ill bet the framers who work around you probably watch your videos. Some might get upset picking on their work. Hope they are all as understanding as you!
Split jamb spreading after drywall might be because a) taping increases moisture on the plasterboard side of the stud, or b) the stud side with drywall dries out slower than the open side. Either way, the drier side shrinks/moist side expands, forcing the curve to occur.
I went through a house once and marked all the stud locations on the floor with a black wax pencil. Didn't do me any good, because the painter oversprayed the primer on the floor out about a foot. Highly visible, lengthy and colorful marks is a good idea.
Yet another rock-solid video, Spencer, with content that is as -- or even more -- vital for a DIYer than perhaps for a pro. Thanks for taking up a chunk of your valuable time to share your knowledge.
ever thought of a collab video with the framer or GC where you could tip s**t on each other's work practices? Or more seriously discuss the issues around working with other trades from their perspective?
hey dude great stuff as always i found the most important part of this video for me was the bidding/ pricing info. would you consider doing an in-depth video breaking down your bidding/ pricing process not necessarily going into dollar amounts. your process on this would i think be one of the most invaluable videos in your collection for either someone just starting out or looking to take on bigger and more complex jobs. thanks man! you’ve changed how i approach my work and it’s starting to show in my business.
Very thorough. Sounds like some of the items you are doing should be the job of the project manager/supervisor...at least after the first couple of trim jobs...
Awesome video. Suggest checking for level and flat on pocket door tracks. Has to be dead bang on the heavy pocket doors or it will be a self opening or self closing door - big bummer.
I used to have a chat with the project manager about any of the alcoves. There is nothing worse than having an alcove that is wider at the back and narrow at the front because of the drywall. I would encourage him to pack out the back corners with masonite to narrow the back.
my dude you've got to get one of those spray paint extender poles! no more bending down to mark those studs. thanks for another incredibly insightful video as always!
Was hoping you would make this video! So helpful , can't wait to see the progress on this one. Would love to see a video on the hidden door! Thanks again really appreciate you.
Idk why builders haven't made it mandatory for every door and window to be minimum 3 studs out from a wall.......in 35 years I've seen this so often where you can't properly trim/case out openings cuz they are slammed into a corner too tight.... Also doorways in kitchens and baths not leaving enough room for Countertop and casing.....so countertop gets notched into casing.....so ghetto, and probably not a big issue on custom high end homes.... a walk thru at end of framing to catch any finish issues is for sure a must.....trades only care about their work not the next guy......as a guy who does most of my own I am always considering the "next" phase and still miss stuff occasionally...... There are tons of details to consider that don't really fall into anyone's scope of work.....its the general contractors responsibility This is why you can't just hire a bunch of trades and cut em loose with no supervision.....you end up with a cluster "F" of problems
Excellent ideas. I haven't finished watching the whole video yet but I wonder if video taping or using your phone on special areas would be a good idea to keep also. Who knows the homeowner might want a copy of what you take with your phone camera or video whatever. I'm old retired Carpenter woodworker. I really appreciate your attitude about your work and your customer. Thank you so much for your video.
Spencer, You professionalism and work ethic are very refreshing. Your success is earned and deserved. Let's say if I was wanting someone to do the trim in my new house - I would be thrilled to have you as the contractor. Thanks for all your work to share this information with the rest of us.
FYI- even if there isn't an Attic Access Ladder- there has to be a scuttle hole to access this area- so there needs to be a spot framed in for this. It could be on the vertical wall in the room above or in the ceiling of the garage.
@@dougdiplacido2406 sorry to disappoint you but installing access above garages is done every day in Fort Wayne Indiana- unless there is a room that fills the entire area above the garage. If it is a scuttle hole it is infilled with 5/8” drywall. However, more often there are pull down stairs that have nothing more than 1/4” plywood that is on the bottom of the stairs. I get what you are saying but where I live it is important to have access to blow insulation into the space.
Dumb question here. Marking studs on subfloor. Base is usaually installed after most flooring is installed. ( excluding carpet) covering marks on floor. Help me here. Love your work.
Great video as always Spencer. I do the same type of walk through. With all the tool you have I can’t believe you don’t have an extension for the paint cans to keep from bending over while marking studs.
I tried one once and found that it fatigues my forearm and wasn't as accurate/easy to control. I threw it away. Plus its just one more thing to keep track of.
@@InsiderCarpentry I’ll be turning and retiring this year after 35 years of working at the same company and I just started using one in the past 5 years. You make valid points but my knees just say thanks. Love the videos and knowledge you share, you’ve taught this old timer a few tricks over the years and many other people I’m sure. You have a knack for explaining things. Check out Thomas Sebold& Associates out of Bloomfield Mi sometime I’ve done trim work on the majority of the homes in their portfolio. I was blessed to find such a great company at a young age.
@@michaelmaas5544 I live in Adrian. I frequent your build area several times during the warmer months. I would love to see some of your excellent work.
I appreciate your videos on stair installs! I hope this house is getting wood tread/risers and not carpet with False tread end caps. I saw the video you did on that but I'm about to install solid wood on a staircase like the one behind you in this video. I haven't had to do exposed ends like that before and I'm curious how you layout and cut the skirt board to give a clean mitre with each riser. Thanks for all your videos!
Never have. That works in theory, if your slabs are perfectly flat. This often isn't the case. That's why I let the way the door hits the stop determine how I need to move the jambs.
Spencer understands the finish trade. The spray paint is pointless at the finish trim stage if areas are covered with finish flooring prior to trim install. Although it would help the drywallers and in carpeted areas.
Not sure if you read many of these comments, Spencer, but I want you to know that your approach to your trade has had an incredible impact on how I approach my trade. I own and operate a residential mechanical contracting business and since I started watching your channel in 2018, I have made a conscious effort to organize and streamline the way I work and do business. Even though we are in different trades, thanks for teaching the art of working well. Take care!
Absolutely. Glad it helps. It's all about systems and processes!
I second that, 100%
This is kind of why I became a GC. Started doing finish carpentry, but figured if I framed and managed the job, by the time finish came around everything would be just that much tighter. This attention makes for an all around much better build too as the things you find could affect other finish trades as well. I work in an expensive market with almost no new construction and pretty old housing stock, so big framing jobs like that are unheard of and there’s not many framing specialists. Finish specialists yes, but most are GCs so they’ll often do what little framing there is in a remodel. So it’s all pricey remodels and additions. Even on larger additions, framing may take a week or so and finish often much longer.
And yeah, ounce of prevention, pound of cure. I say a day spent planning is worth a week on the job. I had a colleague who used to drive me crazy when we’d work together. First day on a job he’s running right out of the gates while I’m saying “easy tiger, put your bags down and let’s do a walkthrough and come up with a plan.” He never listened and it almost always cost us. “I’m a good problem solver” he’d always say. I could never quite convince him not to cause problems to begin with. Still close friends, but we don’t work together anymore.
“I don’t even know what this stuff is” 😂
Great tips as always Spencer. This can be directed to builders for their pre drywall walk.
Hi Spencer! I have tried to make comments to carpenters who have been using the same system for 30 years trying to convince them that there are a little easier ways so that in the process of installing the trim in a house everything flows smoother, but unfortunately it's possible to change the mindset of people who feel they know everything even without trying to implement a new technique.Very good techniques and as I always say "the secret is in the preparation"
Some of the high end homes we trim we also install bathroom medicine cabinetry that is set flush with the drywall. This means there has to be a rough opening before the drywall is installed. Lots of times the home owner hasn't even picked out the bathroom cabinets . Now we make sure there's no plumbing or electrical above the vanities. It's a big headache after the fact.
Excellent content as always. You're setting future trade and finish carpenters up for success and we need more of it. We've been using the 360 cameras at multiple stages of our builds, and the info has become invaluable to us as we do trim, cabinets, base etc. We can pan around and see everything that was in the wall before drywall. On critical stuff we pull tape measure and have that in picture for reference. Appreciate all you do.
Our new home was completed last year. No one, the builder or the framer was going to put in blocking for the TP holders as they said they would be fine it drywall - I disagreed, so I did it and then marked where I wanted them mounted. I also did that because I felt very strongly that the TP holder locations in many houses are way too close to the toilets not giving enough room for your legs. The details matter, a lot! I also ran most of the network wiring for the house.
I always throw a block on either side of the studs around where baseboard diffusers are going to be.
Gives you some meat for the diffuser screws and more importantly I have something to shoot my base to where I butt to the vents
Really nice job of bringing the build concepts together.... something I've done sporadically in the past.... never hurts to be reminded....also great editing of the lists
Excellent video. It’s refreshing to see the forethought you put into your work. Surprisingly, it isn’t that common. As a homeowner who had to rebuild after a wildfire, I got to see first hand every step of this process. I geeked out on it a bit by watching channels like yours and so many other trades, I probably irritated my GC. In the long run, it really saved a lot of headache. I identified so many problems before drywall that if I hadn’t been so involved and informed, would have been a nightmare to redo. I did this exact thing by marking and photographing everything and sure enough, when I came back after drywall, was able to identify several areas the drywall crew covered up. Even though I kept my GC on his toes, he was appreciative I had done this ahead of time.
Spencer this one is fantastic! I’m slowing down and taking less work these days. I hope the next generation is watching these & will do steps like this, other builders will see this and hire them for their better jobs.
I absolutely love how you’re educating your viewer.
Respect to your productive and precision craftsmanship. As a finish carpenter/marriage counselor your clips have been a timesaver for me. I have referred clients to your site and had good results with conveying the difference between quality and DIY theories.
Also always check the pocket door track to ensure the framers actually installed it level most times they just screw it on assuming the header is level or that the trim guy can fix it if not by adjusting the pocket door wheels...
Stair riser heights is also a must, great video!! 👍
Super video Spencer! I know it doesn’t really effect the trim install but I always used to nail framing scraps around window areas for when the home owner attempts to hang blinds and curtains they hit wood instead of needing to use dry wall anchors. Same in the bath rooms for shower curtain rods.
Add blocking for monitors cabinet’s bathroom grab bars
As a former framer and current superintendent. We always did several things with door opening
1) plumb doorway
2 toe nail headers to assure they are flush with the bucks
3) toel nail plates or make sure bottom plates are solid
4) Also, while doing this, I would make sure it's nailed on the chalk line. Also, making sure bucks and king studs are flush and nailed correctly
On the split jamb a sixteenth negative helps with bowing but that aluminum pocket door set up that you highlighted was the best.
Spence I just started doing some customs not really any track homes? Lots of cabinets and millwork in updates! However ! This is a huge in value video for a professional finish carpenter/ contractor!
Thk you so very much Spence ; God bless you & yours!
I'm doing updates on my current home. Everything you mentioned WAS NOT DONE! What a pain in the you know what..... Thanks for the info!
Adding blocking seems not only convenient for yourself as the one installing hardware, but considerate for the future homeowner(s) in case they want to change styles of hardware.
I’ve heard of contractors also installing 2x12 blocking for grab bars in bathrooms as well because people only get older, or for those who are physically handicapped. 3-0 doors openings are nice for that reason as well (besides having to move furniture in and out).
Btw, great video, as always! You give a lot of insight for those of us beginning in the trades! Always nice to think of the next step in the build, or looking after the next guy. An older boss of mine always used to tell us “we’re all in this together” and I couldn’t agree more.
They do.
Back in the day, when we did a lot of nursing homes/ Ada stuff, the framers were " put" in blocking and " those guys" would cut out the blocking.
I never figured out who those guys were, but I can tell you I have spent many hours putting blocking in after the fact.
I put in curtain blocking on either side of windows and also make sure I have meat above the window for brackets.
@@MichaelCZUSA that’s smart too! I hate having to resort to drywall anchors for everything. Just feels like the lightest tug and everything will collapse
@@PabloEskimofo yeah and the ones that do carry a weight you can see them creeping out from behind the bracket
Love that you discussed LSL. I am a Territory Manager for Weyerhaeuser and my builders on the East Coast love these studs. Side note. Prior to my Weyerhaeuser career I was doing just what you are minus the videos. 37 years of trim carpentry. I would love to work with you one day!
Great video Spencer. I used to say “one should be putting the most energy in a project at the beginning so the job only gets EASIER as you proceed. “ Most do the opposite for some reason and spend so much time fixing, justifying their mistakes , or just leaving things screwed up.
Enjoyed your video and sharing of your knowledge. Was very interesting.
I'm a recently retired industrial electrician from power plants of 33 years, so my knowledge of residential framing is very minimal.
Excellent video!
Absolutely a true craftsman! Unfortunately in my area trim carpenters do not see the job site til after drywall or don’t care too. Always great content thanks Spencer
I always go behind my framers and add blocking for drywall and trim. I want my jobs nice!!
I am thinking about building a house in the next year. I might make it mandatory that every contractror watch this video. Very useful, great video.
Make a quiz that they have to take as well.
Yeah, force everyone to watch a video.
I like your idea of marking the studs, water lines and electrical wires on the floor with paint. Unfortunately, that wouldn’t work for us in our area. We are typically one of the last trades to get into a house, so there’s usually always either finished flooring or underlayment put down before we trim it out, so we wouldn’t be able to see the paint marks anymore. Glad it works for you, wish it would for us as I’m sure it would be very helpful and speed up the install.
Yeah flooring goes on before the trim here, marking the floor will be useless
Marking the floor is only helpful if the flooring is carpet.
Same here, came to see if someone else has this issue.
Also how long are this guys nails? As a finish carpenter I’m under the impression that these wires/pipes are at a depth in the wall where I can’t reach with 1 3/4 nails. Guess I’ve been lucky last 10 years.
Great stuff! As to your "outlet/drywall cover up topic", that is big to me as a super. I hit all switches and outlets w/ paint prior to insulation making sure I hit the stud. The after insulation, I walk the insulated walls, cut open covered sparky bits and paint them again. Since starting this, sparky's almost never have to hunt, which means my trim boys see it too. Great job!
You need to do a vid on how exactly do you charge… Like what’s your breakdown on a bid… do you itemize everything i.e., doors, casing, baseboard, crown, etc…
-For basic MDF 3.5” crown on 8’ ceilings I charge $7 per ft… and the same for baseboard because of all of kneeling & bending over… but if the owner wants miscellaneous stuff done, I like Wainscoting on one wall add a stool & apron to a picture framed window, etc… I would charge a minimum of $80 an hour…
-Could you please give us a breakdown of how you bid a job?
This is amazingly useful -- thank you. A video about how to talk to other trades would be great, too. Like how to get junction boxes moved without the electrician getting riled up, or how to suggest improvements to the drywallers. Cheers
That all comes down to having a good project manager (middle man) who has a good relationship and mediates.
The reason the opening for pocket doors bows without the nailer on there isn't the weight of the drywall. It's the way the drywall mud dries and tightens up but you have the answer. Lock them things together
That's the cleanest home site I've seen. Certainly not a production build.
On my personal house, I also marked the hvac line-set on the exterior sheathing (zip) so the siding guys didn’t accidentally shoot a nail. But, Because I use zip my siding crew commented that they were basically able to hit a stud the majority of the time because they can see exactly where the studs were from the nail pattern on the sheathing.
I also mark critical electrical areas (wire chases, and main service cable) with red spray paint.
I have one doorway in my house that’s cross legged a little bit. Drives me nuts every time I close the door.
Solid content, Spencer. Actually did most of your checklist on the last custom house. Took a couple months working with the trades and all, as well as cabinet line changes. That house was perfectly setup by the time trim and doors were scheduled for delivery. I could have worked in a suit and tie.
Unfortunately, through a short series of unforseen circumstances with the client, we were unable to do the work there. The couple divorced. Life is what it is sometimes.
Again great content in your video. Absolutely appreciate all the effort you put forth to keep the high standard of our trade reachable.
I 100% agree with walking a job before drywall.
As a cabinet installer I always move at least one electrical outlet (usuall a built-in),nailing plates over the single stud I can attach a narrow cabinet too.
Waterline running through an area where a base is covering.
Where plumbing an electrical runs in a horizontal plane, is my nemesis... nail plates.
In ww2 the army had a protocol "Bring at least two solutions when you find a problem".
I have started taking pictures pre-drywall whenever possible.
Have also educated the paper GC firms we work for,and them taking pictures and noting where potential problems will be....is huge.
Currently have 2 jobs going with issues.
1 gets true floating shelves with not tall enough blocking.
The 2nd and different builder had a leak,of which caused us to(remove all plumbing and an electrical outlet) pull the 4ft long vanity with granite and sink installed..... in an already occupied home.
The latter was not on-site,and offered no floor protection nor any support of any kind.
Thanks for sharing your process Spencer.
Specialized trades are becoming an issue when paper GC's are involved.
You are brilliant! Nice to see a tradesperson who actually gives Crap about quality.
The voice of experience
Hey mate, I love watching how other tradesmen go through the processes. I work in Australia and we do a lot of homes on polished concrete floors so we can't mark the floors. We install the framework and fix (trim) so we are aware of where the studs are. I take hundreds of photos too, these modern phones are great. Keep doing what you do 👍
My take away is the blocking in the bathroom. I’m doing a remodel and need to add blocking for all the items on your list. Thx.
Some really great points. As a volunteer with Habitat for Humanity, we do both framing and finish. Because of some of the problems we've had with finish, I try to head them off during framing. Trying to get other volunteers to follow thru can be a problem though. Thanks.
I volunteer with Habitat weekly. Our team often spends a good bit of time correcting or finishing work done by volunteer groups, but that’s what it is all about. It is great working with the volunteers, especially the females, who have never before touched a nail gun, a drill driver or a powered miter saw. Most learn quickly and love it. Habitat can always use retired folks interested in volunteering regularly and who are interested in or experienced in home construction.
Spencer you are literally the epitome of a general contractors dream sub appreciate you greatly
Love the videos Spencer, true master caliber work. On most jobs we do, the unfinished oak flooring goes in before trim so the majority of the paint lines would be covered, I think its a smart idea but we'd have to go back and mark after the flooring is installed in order for it to help.
Same here James. It would be helpful for hanging cabinetry however. We’re finishing a reno right now where there are floating cabinets in all of the bathrooms, having this information right on the floor in front of us as we’re lagging everything in would have been very helpful.
@@chadsichello4267 As a cabinetmaker, I would want to be there before the drywall goes up and see that there is plenty of metal in the walls either for floating cabinets or floating shelves or I just wouldn't take on the job.
It is so beneficial to be able to walk a new home at this stage if it’s available to you. Unfortunately, for me, most of the time we are asked to estimate after the home has gone through the drywall phase.
I recently had LSL's installed in a double pocket door and one side warped. Interesting to here that it could be the drywall install that warped it. The carpenters had no idea why an LSL bent that bad.
Nailing those split jambs like I showed makes a HUGE difference.
Lots of valuable info here. Never have been able to fix that pocket door spreading out issue, I'll try a block next time. Thanks.
I also look for light switches having enough space of there's big casing
I wish I would have known you were local when I built my house. I would have asked for you just like I asked to bring in an HVAC contractor who was experienced with geothermal. My builder needs to use more people like you who care deeply about their craft.
"This isn't necessarily my scope of work to watch out for, but it's something I'll note and relay to the project manager." This says so much about your and your character. I wish there were more people like you in the trades. Too many guys don't know, and don't care. I bring up issues all the time to builders and get treated like a nuisance. I'm trying to look out for you, and everybody else that's going to be screwed when this has to be redone later dude. There's a lot of builders out there, but few who actually care to build a quality home.
I usually go through and use orange paint for all my electrical boxes, and anything else we could potentially cover up with drywall, so if you and I were on the same job it might get confusing. lol
Interesting that they give you outlets in a new build like that. Here they usually don't even have the panel made up when we hang drywall. The electrical department won't connect power until the HVAC is finished so everyone is running off of a temp pole until then.
That last part about how it's far easier, and costs less to fix these things ahead of time than it is to deal with them later is so true. You're wise beyond your years Spencer!
I'm a cabinetmaker, but often get to do some design work on homes. I'm always looking out for problems early on in the framing process. So many things might not be on the plans. Many times on a remodel I'm out there with my 8' level checking that wall studs are on the same plane. Most contractors don't really consider this to be important, but if you shim or plane a few studs it can make it a lot easier for everyone else down the road. I've noticed that when an old home has lath and plaster walls that are torn out and replaced by drywall, often some studs can be way off of the plane of the walls and need to be dealt with before the drywall goes up.
@@tomruth9487 One of my most used tools is a Dewalt cordless hand planer. These framers don't cull anything these days and use bowed lumber for Jack, and King studs which not only makes hanging the drywall suck, it makes it harder on the trim guy, which is also me on a lot of them. I'll plane down the high stud on one side and fill the void on the other side with glue.
@@rickysdrywall5288 Yeah, I can understand what you have to do. I usually fill with that paper or cardboard shims, have not tried glue but thanks for the tip.
@Ricky's Drywall I am a framer, and while I do not doubt your conclusion, sometimes the crap lumber you find is the best of what has been delivered to us! Lumber quality has gotten really bad!
@@aarongreenlee7867 I will agree. As a woodworker for 40 some years I can only say lumber quality has been a slow constant decrease.
I just found this channel today. Liked and subscribed. Great job! I'm building a riverfront home for my wife and I. We are in our late 50s.These types of pre-drywall videos are so helpful from so many aspects as I get great ideas how to do other aspects as well.
I've never seen finger jointed studs, that interesting. Seems like a great way to save on non load bearing walls.
I thought that too but if you look close, and they are truly finger jointed studs I’m seeing, a lot of those are under point loads and in bearing walls. Never seen that before, but hey, I’m not an engineer.
They are vertical rated. Not to be used in horizontal bending. The knots and defects in typical studs are not good in compression. The jointed ones have less defects and are technically superior to natural studs.
love your videos they teach me so much, especially at 6:35 where he teaches how to do the robot
Took me years to get that right... LOL
I wish I had the opportunity to do things like this. I’m always rushed so hard and the boss has us do everything backwards and fix it later because he thinks it’s faster. I can’t tel you how many walls I’ve had to open up and patch for dumb reasons and there’s never anything to nail to lol
It's faster to take the time to do things right I have learned over the years ...
Thanks Spencer! I have learned a lot from your videos. I am a commercial construction superintendent and always looking for ways to get better.
Great Job Saves problem down the road and prevents give back to Gc.
Hey Spencer - good heads up video! Ill bet the framers who work around you probably watch your videos. Some might get upset picking on their work. Hope they are all as understanding as you!
Excellent and well thought out work. In the end this saved so much time and eliminates second guessing things.
I'm exhausted !!!! That's a whole lot of things to be aware of !!!! Great info !!
It really is! But a checklist helps.
Split jamb spreading after drywall might be because a) taping increases moisture on the plasterboard side of the stud, or b) the stud side with drywall dries out slower than the open side. Either way, the drier side shrinks/moist side expands, forcing the curve to occur.
That makes perfect sense! Same that happens when you put a piece of 1x on a concrete floor and it cups.
I went through a house once and marked all the stud locations on the floor with a black wax pencil. Didn't do me any good, because the painter oversprayed the primer on the floor out about a foot. Highly visible, lengthy and colorful marks is a good idea.
Yep, It takes a decent mark if you want to see it after drywall and primer.
Yet another rock-solid video, Spencer, with content that is as -- or even more -- vital for a DIYer than perhaps for a pro. Thanks for taking up a chunk of your valuable time to share your knowledge.
Absolutely top notch stuff here.
ever thought of a collab video with the framer or GC where you could tip s**t on each other's work practices? Or more seriously discuss the issues around working with other trades from their perspective?
I love it, wood would! Lol
Fantastic video just having fun!
This my friends is a master at his trade.
hey dude great stuff as always i found the most important part of this video for me was the bidding/ pricing info.
would you consider doing an in-depth video breaking down your bidding/ pricing process not necessarily going into dollar amounts. your process on this would i think be one of the most invaluable videos in your collection for either someone just starting out or looking to take on bigger and more complex jobs.
thanks man! you’ve changed how i approach my work and it’s starting to show in my business.
Very thorough.
Sounds like some of the items you are doing should be the job of the project manager/supervisor...at least after the first couple of trim jobs...
cleanliness of that house speaks volumes about that builder. It would be nice if trades would refuse to work for crap builders...
Awesome video. Suggest checking for level and flat on pocket door tracks. Has to be dead bang on the heavy pocket doors or it will be a self opening or self closing door - big bummer.
So far ahead of his time the best on the internet
I appreciate that John. Thanks
Spencer I will be using this video as a training tool for all of our subs! Just phenomenal as always! Thank you for all that you share!
That's why I make them! Glad to help!
I used to have a chat with the project manager about any of the alcoves. There is nothing worse than having an alcove that is wider at the back and narrow at the front because of the drywall. I would encourage him to pack out the back corners with masonite to narrow the back.
Very smart move!
Do you take photos? Adds to the paint lines. Gives you a visual from floor to ceiling. All good ideas.
my dude you've got to get one of those spray paint extender poles! no more bending down to mark those studs. thanks for another incredibly insightful video as always!
Tried on and didn't care for it!
Interesting to see finger jointed studs. Seems like a great idea.
At 6:35 my man breakin out the robot
Was hoping you would make this video! So helpful , can't wait to see the progress on this one. Would love to see a video on the hidden door! Thanks again really appreciate you.
Great idea.
Doesn't the finish flooring cover your paint lines?
Priceless advice
If you came to my house you would be amazed at the skill of the rough carpenters. The did all of the work with out a level or a square. 😂
6:39 Nice moves!
Idk why builders haven't made it mandatory for every door and window to be minimum 3 studs out from a wall.......in 35 years I've seen this so often where you can't properly trim/case out openings cuz they are slammed into a corner too tight....
Also doorways in kitchens and baths not leaving enough room for Countertop and casing.....so countertop gets notched into casing.....so ghetto, and probably not a big issue on custom high end homes....
a walk thru at end of framing to catch any finish issues is for sure a must.....trades only care about their work not the next guy......as a guy who does most of my own I am always considering the "next" phase and still miss stuff occasionally......
There are tons of details to consider that don't really fall into anyone's scope of work.....its the general contractors responsibility
This is why you can't just hire a bunch of trades and cut em loose with no supervision.....you end up with a cluster "F" of problems
Excellent ideas.
I haven't finished watching the whole video yet but I wonder if video taping or using your phone on special areas would be a good idea to keep also.
Who knows the homeowner might want a copy of what you take with your phone camera or video whatever.
I'm old retired Carpenter woodworker.
I really appreciate your attitude about your work and your customer.
Thank you so much for your video.
Spencer, You professionalism and work ethic are very refreshing. Your success is earned and deserved. Let's say if I was wanting someone to do the trim in my new house - I would be thrilled to have you as the contractor. Thanks for all your work to share this information with the rest of us.
I have watched just about every single video you have made, and this is the first one I’ve ever heard you laugh. Hahahaha
That house looks HUGE!
FYI- even if there isn't an Attic Access Ladder- there has to be a scuttle hole to access this area- so there needs to be a spot framed in for this. It could be on the vertical wall in the room above or in the ceiling of the garage.
There should never be an access in the garage ceiling. In the even of a car fire the ceiling needs to be as fire tight as possible.
@@dougdiplacido2406 sorry to disappoint you but installing access above garages is done every day in Fort Wayne Indiana- unless there is a room that fills the entire area above the garage. If it is a scuttle hole it is infilled with 5/8” drywall. However, more often there are pull down stairs that have nothing more than 1/4” plywood that is on the bottom of the stairs. I get what you are saying but where I live it is important to have access to blow insulation into the space.
Dumb question here. Marking studs on subfloor. Base is usaually installed after most flooring is installed. ( excluding carpet) covering marks on floor. Help me here. Love your work.
Great video Spencer. You’re an inspiration for us all!
Outstanding video mate, never seen anyone do this prep before, I will insist on it now! Cheers.
Only way to be a VERY good framer is to understand trim and the whole rest of the building process. Couldnt agree more
Great video as always Spencer. I do the same type of walk through. With all the tool you have I can’t believe you don’t have an extension for the paint cans to keep from bending over while marking studs.
I tried one once and found that it fatigues my forearm and wasn't as accurate/easy to control. I threw it away. Plus its just one more thing to keep track of.
@@InsiderCarpentry I’ll be turning and retiring this year after 35 years of working at the same company and I just started using one in the past 5 years.
You make valid points but my knees just say thanks. Love the videos and knowledge you share, you’ve taught this old timer a few tricks over the years and many other people I’m sure.
You have a knack for explaining things.
Check out Thomas Sebold& Associates out of Bloomfield Mi sometime I’ve done trim work on the majority of the homes in their portfolio.
I was blessed to find such a great company at a young age.
@@michaelmaas5544 I live in Adrian. I frequent your build area several times during the warmer months. I would love to see some of your excellent work.
Top notch tradesman and video content! Excellent! Thank you!
I appreciate your videos on stair installs! I hope this house is getting wood tread/risers and not carpet with False tread end caps. I saw the video you did on that but I'm about to install solid wood on a staircase like the one behind you in this video. I haven't had to do exposed ends like that before and I'm curious how you layout and cut the skirt board to give a clean mitre with each riser. Thanks for all your videos!
Have you ever used a string line to determine if your jamb legs are in the same plane? Sometimes this is more important than using a level.
Never have. That works in theory, if your slabs are perfectly flat. This often isn't the case. That's why I let the way the door hits the stop determine how I need to move the jambs.
Gary Katz used strings to check for cross legs. I have done it works well for me.
Phenomenal video! So helpful and fantastic tips. Thank you for sharing.
On a conventional subfloor like that aren’t all your marks covered by the flooring before you start trimming the space out?
Spencer understands the finish trade. The spray paint is pointless at the finish trim stage if areas are covered with finish flooring prior to trim install. Although it would help the drywallers and in carpeted areas.
In my area flooring goes in after trim. We use shoe.
Finger jointed studs! That’s a new one
Good one Spencer! A good builder does all of those things already!