Spot on filing makes for a very happy saw. When you learn all these little very necessary things about saw care and saw handling the job/hobby of wood cutting becomes so much more enjoyable. I compare this to precision ammo loading where a thousandth of an inch in seating depth means a tighter group. To some who doesn’t know, it means nothing. Mr. Flagg, you’re doing a fine job keeping us educated. Thanks
Rich, please keep up with these kind of videos. I think you are helping a lot of people understand this subject a lot better. Perfect display of how depth gauges work because you can really see it in this video. A lot of people like myself can learn easier with the visuals. Thanks again.
I meant to mention, I have had the best luck with the Husqvarna sharpening guides. I usually use the Husky files as well. I have tried a few different ones over time. I am always looking out for a better one.
Great information! I purchased Husqvarna C83 chain a few years ago and just did not like it. Then after stumbling around on the forums I learned that it was found the depth gauges were .018“ from the factory. I use the Husqvarna progressive depth gauge filing guide and brought them down to .025“ and the chain cuts fantastic now! Safety chain adds that extra bumper with the depth gauge for more material to file away as time goes on.
Excellent demonstration and explanation. I now have a much better understanding thanks to your video. I also like your sense of humour.!👍 Thanks for sharing. Keep your videos coming. You really deserve way more subscribers.
Excellent!! That vise rig you set up was genius. The position of the round file in the tooth at the chisel angle effects the depth gauge height also. People compensate instead of practicing to maintain Mr Cox’s design. Great job in the video Mr Flagg!
Great video. I really like Gordy’s- West Coast Saw depth gauge plate. Sets depth gauges per tooth. Instead of over several teeth. I profile my depth gauges because of folklore, thank you for giving me the reason.
Hi and thanks for sharing, appreciated. Saw chain is designed for a cross cutting tooth to leave the guide bar and take chips in an efficient chipping motion. It can plane off noodles with the grain but it's engineered cross cutting action is a dynamic rocking action that happens automatically through the forces and reactions from when the wood strikes the leading edge, through rivet pivots, pivoting/rocking on cutting tooth heels and pivoting on the depth gauge. The slopes on the top plate also take part in what can and can't happen. Sources: _‘Dan Tilton Chainsaw Safety’_ vid from the 80’s - is on YT and _‘Carlton Safety Manual’_ an online pdf, p6. The Tilton vid, from the 80's talks of how the depth gauge should progressively increase from 25 though to almost double that at the witness marks. I'm not sure if that's really the best but it seems the progressive depth gauges give better cutting results especially as the teeth get to and beyond half filed away. All the best and thanks again for sharing sincerely d
Nice job explaining and visually showing what’s happening with the cutters and depth gauges. Big chips are all for not if you’re pulling the chain speed down not to mention overworking the engine. The rounded raker vs the flat makes a lot of sense too. I think I’ll take a little more time on my rakers than I have been, thanks!
...Richard.....great visual demo of just what the rakers do.....I kinda knew, but now I really know.....and NOT filing over the depth gauge I wondered about, but now I know how to use it properly......thanks for the video....keep 'em coming...(I just subscribed)... 🙂
Richard, I wish I could shake your hand !!! This is undoubtedly One of the best, if not THE Best, videos on depth gauge ( rakers ) I have come across. And I want to Thank You for putting this out, as it should be of tremendous help to anyone starting out, and wanting to do their own sharpening, or are having issues with getting the best out of their saws/ chains. 👍 I run several different saws, different chains, and do all my own sharpening. It’s a constant practice of trying to get better, and I hope to make it one day! 🙄 In between @ 05:08 and 06:30 is invaluable, to anyone watching this. Brilliant at how You showed what the chain and gauges actually do and how they work! I always check my gauges with an Oregon gauge, and file and recheck, NOT filing on the gauge! I do attempt to keep the rounded profile on the gauges, and great how you pointed that out! Great stuff Richard! @ 08:30. SWEET Stanley plane! 👍 Stay safe! Best to You and yours!
Richard is doing some great videos. I know what you’re saying how the flat file doesn’t seem to want to bite when using the gauge, I try to file with the gauge though cause you don’t want too hungry of a chain!
@@sendyplumber hey Scotty, yeah, Richard is da Man. Great comment, and the way I do it is to ‘sneaky up’ on the depth gauges. Check with the gauge, file a little, recheck, so on and so on. Gauge is not made of titanium, so I don't like the idea of filing on it. Remember to keep the profile of the depth gauge (raker) as you file. I use the file that comes with the gauge ( Oregon ).
Im fairly green to "chain tuning" but i like the husqvarna gauges because they sit at a downward angle and give you that smooth ramp instead of slamming raker into the cut. I have like 5 different saws set up for specific tasks with specific chains all set up for tip cutting, buried bar, dirty wood etc. Chain setup is EVERYTHING!!
im actually enjoy the opposite of a new chain ive found that when a chain gets close to the end of its life it cuts the best cause of a smaller tooth. and i will somtimes eyeball the depth gauges if my teeth are all the same size but i always will hit it with a gauge at the very least every 3 times i mess with the rakers or less. great video though. i see lots of people saying you can eyeball it and it should be fine but if you dont check it with a gauge at least every few times you do it the chances of it getting messed up greatly increase
Good information Richard, thanks for explaining the effects of too much bite slowing down the chain speed, I never thought about that, I have been filing without my gauge this year because I wanted more “bite” but I think I’ll get back to using it.
Rich, as always, great information and really brings to light that filing is an “art” but based on some complex variables that you need to evaluate before going into your cut job. The average landscaper or big box store home owner doesn’t care and doesn’t want to either in my experience. I see and hear the wailing of the saws and I can only feel bad for the power saw since the operator should be seeking employment in the fast food industry . What I do; I spend some time beforehand to understand the wood, species, dead or live, and most importantly what the owner owner can tell me about the tree that may have been used for everything from a bird feeder to an old fence line. There is nothing better than fresh grind on a chain for finding iron inside the wood. Sorry got a bit sidetracked with the experiences here. I sometimes have to adjust the tooth and rakers multiple times to get it right. Once you get it right it will show you. The best way to see if your making progress is look at the chips as you go and see if they are formed as rectangles and not hamster sawdust.You can probably get a good read on the face cut first and then go for the backcut if you are close, but once it’s down, adjust if you have to before the buck. As Buckin’ says, it’s all in the filing. Thanks for the details and the video quality is excellent too.
A well tuned chain can really make a big difference. I’m guilty of filing my depth gauges to .030 but for some wild reason I can’t find a .025 it’s either a .020, .030, and for some reason, a .050. I guess for harvesters? I file to .030 and every third or fourth sharpening I’ll reset the depth gauges. Second and third sharpening and that chain is smooth. Proper depth gauges also help with cutting straight as well. A properly tuned chain will make a smaller or less powerful saw cut faster than a larger saw with an improper filing job.
The fly in the ointment is that If you're hand filing soon all the Cutting teeth will be at a different height. So laying a flat Metal gauge results in a different result tooth to tooth. Re- calibration of tooth height Using a chain grinder is the only Way to get back to original Chain to depth gauge relationship.
@@PurpleNovember I'm not saying that it can't be done and I think it's great you have those Skills. The reality is that a very significant number of folks who Buy a chainsaw never reach your Level of expertise. There are guys That just buy a new chain so that they never have to sharpen them.
So a chain and depth gaige setting per woodtype. Wonder how much cutting perfornance you loose on sharp edge filed depth gauge instead of rounded egde depth gauge.
There is nothing like having a properly sharpened chain. The chain almost pulls itself through the cut. A lot of guys like to dog in and leverage the chain. This will dull your chain faster. Let the chain cut by the weight of the saw or thereabouts. You can use pressure but only to replicate the weight of the saw. Think of a hand saw. If you put a lot of pressure on it, it will not cut as cleanly. There is no need to push a good sharp chain.
Realy like gordys gauges..helped me alot ..I switched to stihl saws and only run there chain 🔗 nothing else .it's down fall is it eats files I hand file and it eats them..I ve found the echo files and xcut work best the actual stihl files realy don't cut it.
At the end of a day, I usually clean and check the power head and bar/drive cog and then sharpen chain(s) in the vice. That is when the love/hate thing comes into play with the flat file. I am a little tired, maybe a llittle unsteady and it is a real fight to keep that bastard-mill file from contacting my sharp tooth corners. I do not use a Dremel type device to sharpen, but sthey are a dream to shape and set the gauges! WaddaYaThink??? I also like the old timey flat depth gauges and Husqvarna has started supplying those again.
Note to anyone out there. The Stihl 2 in 1 is great but it sets it to about .040 depth which is way too much for hardwoods. Makes a super grabby chain in ash or oak. I take the flat file out of mine.
That's interesting I have the opposite problem with mine. I am taking micro chips after the 2 in 1. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. My 500 was pulling nicely into the wood before and after I need to lean on it or it's just spinning.
I came to the same conclusion years age with rakers for my firewood processor they are 404 pitch and the rakers out of the box are 0.050 thousand over the life of the chain I may only do the rakers 3 times and I keep them at 0.035 to 0.040 thousand as it keeps the chain speed higher and you don't hear the motor lose RPM's it is a 44 HP diesel 13 years of running it I can hear everything its doing. I don't see a time difference cutting a 20inch round at 0.050 than at 0.035 if it was faster at 0.050 thats what I would do but its not. Its not faster with either one but the 0.035 is easier on the equipment
Great video! Excellent information...got a question for you Richard? Maybe you can help I'm looking for a 066 in really good condition having no luck finding one here in GA do you have any suggestions thanks in advance
@@richardflagg3084 yeah I figured as much it's gonna be a collector saw that's the main reason for gently used condition lol... Willing to pay fair price for the right one thanks for the reply
Having the whole world looking at my bench doesn't hurt. I see a lot of guys with a messy and cluttered shop on UA-cam. I try to be mindful of what's in the background and what the bench looks like.
Best video on depth gauge settings I have ever seen
Spot on filing makes for a very happy saw. When you learn all these little very necessary things about saw care and saw handling the job/hobby of wood cutting becomes so much more enjoyable. I compare this to precision ammo loading where a thousandth of an inch in seating depth means a tighter group. To some who doesn’t know, it means nothing. Mr. Flagg, you’re doing a fine job keeping us educated. Thanks
As always Richard, great discussion with some visuals that helped tie it all in 👍👍
Hey Richard,
This is the BEST demonstration of depth gauge theory that I have come across anywhere! Simple, visual, and precise. Thank You!!
Rich, please keep up with these kind of videos. I think you are helping a lot of people understand this subject a lot better. Perfect display of how depth gauges work because you can really see it in this video. A lot of people like myself can learn easier with the visuals. Thanks again.
Good info! I've hand filed my chains since the beginning probably 45 years ago but we can never stop learning!
Excellent video thank you. Stihl chain comes with a laser engraved angle for proper raker filing
I meant to mention, I have had the best luck with the Husqvarna sharpening guides. I usually use the Husky files as well. I have tried a few different ones over time. I am always looking out for a better one.
The way the chain moves across the wood is called porpoising 🐬. It moves up and down rapidly as it cuts into the wood
Excellent video and great visuals. Rey valuable information as always Richard!
Good info, Richard. That was a well done, and thorough explanation.
Great information! I purchased Husqvarna C83 chain a few years ago and just did not like it. Then after stumbling around on the forums I learned that it was found the depth gauges were .018“ from the factory. I use the Husqvarna progressive depth gauge filing guide and brought them down to .025“ and the chain cuts fantastic now! Safety chain adds that extra bumper with the depth gauge for more material to file away as time goes on.
Great video. Dropping raker height excessively is a good recipe for chatter and worst case, a broken crank.
First time I've seen such a great explanation of a tooth biting in the wood. Thank you again! Still eager for the 710 test😄
Another good one Rich, Well Done!
Excellent demonstration and explanation. I now have a much better understanding thanks to your video.
I also like your sense of humour.!👍 Thanks for sharing. Keep your videos coming. You really deserve way more subscribers.
Excellent!! That vise rig you set up was genius. The position of the round file in the tooth at the chisel angle effects the depth gauge height also. People compensate instead of practicing to maintain Mr Cox’s design. Great job in the video Mr Flagg!
Great video.
I really like Gordy’s- West Coast Saw depth gauge plate. Sets depth gauges per tooth. Instead of over several teeth.
I profile my depth gauges because of folklore, thank you for giving me the reason.
Exactly. I always did it, I just never saw why.
Hi and thanks for sharing, appreciated.
Saw chain is designed for a cross cutting tooth to leave the guide bar and take chips in an efficient chipping motion. It can plane off noodles with the grain but it's engineered cross cutting action is a dynamic rocking action that happens automatically through the forces and reactions from when the wood strikes the leading edge, through rivet pivots, pivoting/rocking on cutting tooth heels and pivoting on the depth gauge. The slopes on the top plate also take part in what can and can't happen.
Sources: _‘Dan Tilton Chainsaw Safety’_ vid from the 80’s - is on YT
and _‘Carlton Safety Manual’_ an online pdf, p6.
The Tilton vid, from the 80's talks of how the depth gauge should progressively increase from 25 though to almost double that at the witness marks. I'm not sure if that's really the best but it seems the progressive depth gauges give better cutting results especially as the teeth get to and beyond half filed away.
All the best and thanks again for sharing
sincerely
d
Thanks again for another straightforward instructional video. I always learn something valuable watching your videos.
Great explanation on a much overlooked aspect when it comes to sharpening chainsaw chains!
Nice review friend, thanks. That "old relic" wood planer is pretty actual here! I buyed one of that a couple of years ago 😂
Great demonstration! Super helpful! I've learned so much from your videos. Thank you!
Nice job explaining and visually showing what’s happening with the cutters and depth gauges. Big chips are all for not if you’re pulling the chain speed down not to mention overworking the engine. The rounded raker vs the flat makes a lot of sense too. I think I’ll take a little more time on my rakers than I have been, thanks!
I like the husqvarna gauge, it measures off of each tooth separately. It also sets the angle on the depth gauge for smooth operation
Great Information...THANKS!
...Richard.....great visual demo of just what the rakers do.....I kinda knew, but now I really know.....and NOT filing over the depth gauge
I wondered about, but now I know how to use it properly......thanks for the video....keep 'em coming...(I just subscribed)... 🙂
Excellent explanation of correct raker filing techniques. Uncle Richard is educating the m asses 😂
M asses😎
Best demo of rakers!!!!!! Thanks!!!!
Richard, I wish I could shake your hand !!! This is undoubtedly One of the best, if not THE Best, videos on depth gauge ( rakers ) I have come across. And I want to Thank You for putting this out, as it should be of tremendous help to anyone starting out, and wanting to do their own sharpening, or are having issues with getting the best out of their saws/ chains. 👍
I run several different saws, different chains, and do all my own sharpening. It’s a constant practice of trying to get better, and I hope to make it one day! 🙄 In between @ 05:08 and 06:30 is invaluable, to anyone watching this. Brilliant at how You showed what the chain and gauges actually do and how they work! I always check my gauges with an Oregon gauge, and file and recheck, NOT filing on the gauge!
I do attempt to keep the rounded profile on the gauges, and great how you pointed that out! Great stuff Richard!
@ 08:30. SWEET Stanley plane! 👍 Stay safe! Best to You and yours!
Thank you for the kind words!
@@richardflagg3084 You're Welcome!
Richard is doing some great videos. I know what you’re saying how the flat file doesn’t seem to want to bite when using the gauge, I try to file with the gauge though cause you don’t want too hungry of a chain!
@@sendyplumber hey Scotty, yeah, Richard is da Man. Great comment, and the way I do it is to ‘sneaky up’ on the depth gauges. Check with the gauge, file a little, recheck, so on and so on. Gauge is not made of titanium, so I don't like the idea of filing on it. Remember to keep the profile of the depth gauge (raker) as you file. I use the file that comes with the gauge ( Oregon ).
Thank you, once again. Every video adds something.
You explain that very well if they did not get it they want 😊
Im fairly green to "chain tuning" but i like the husqvarna gauges because they sit at a downward angle and give you that smooth ramp instead of slamming raker into the cut. I have like 5 different saws set up for specific tasks with specific chains all set up for tip cutting, buried bar, dirty wood etc. Chain setup is EVERYTHING!!
Excellent video Richard, very well explained. Cutting is all down to sharpening well.
Good advice people forget keep the round profile of depth guage it it it's square it digs in the wood before the chain tooth blade
You did a good job explaining and presenting that.
Thanks for a great explanation. I learned a lot.😀
Awesome demonstration and explanation👍🏻
Makes lots of sense, good explanation!
Great video, love the demo against that block of wood.
im actually enjoy the opposite of a new chain ive found that when a chain gets close to the end of its life it cuts the best cause of a smaller tooth. and i will somtimes eyeball the depth gauges if my teeth are all the same size but i always will hit it with a gauge at the very least every 3 times i mess with the rakers or less. great video though. i see lots of people saying you can eyeball it and it should be fine but if you dont check it with a gauge at least every few times you do it the chances of it getting messed up greatly increase
Great discussion and visuals 😉👍
Good information Richard, thanks for explaining the effects of too much bite slowing down the chain speed, I never thought about that, I have been filing without my gauge this year because I wanted more “bite” but I think I’ll get back to using it.
Great content pal and sweetheart of a little solo as well
All great, and useful, information, but the important question is, what kind of bar oil are you running, and why is it better than what I use? 😆
Thanks Richard,
Very informative!
Rich, as always, great information and really brings to light that filing is an “art” but based on some complex variables that you need to evaluate before going into your cut job. The average landscaper or big box store home owner doesn’t care and doesn’t want to either in my experience. I see and hear the wailing of the saws and I can only feel bad for the power saw since the operator should be seeking employment in the fast food industry . What I do; I spend some time beforehand to understand the wood, species, dead or live, and most importantly what the owner owner can tell me about the tree that may have been used for everything from a bird feeder to an old fence line. There is nothing better than fresh grind on a chain for finding iron inside the wood. Sorry got a bit sidetracked with the experiences here.
I sometimes have to adjust the tooth and rakers multiple times to get it right. Once you get it right it will show you. The best way to see if your making progress is look at the chips as you go and see if they are formed as rectangles and not hamster sawdust.You can probably get a good read on the face cut first and then go for the backcut if you are close, but once it’s down, adjust if you have to before the buck. As Buckin’ says, it’s all in the filing.
Thanks for the details and the video quality is excellent too.
Best way I've seen explained.
Good presentation
thanks again richard
Rich very informative ❤❤❤
Great video. Take care.
Great video! Only thing you didn’t cover is what cutting oil you use 😉
Richard, thanks for another educational video. I think we're going to start calling you, professor Flagg. Lol
Thanks! Boedy and I were hanging out last week and he asked me about that. I told him that's the first I've heard of being the "professor". 🤔
👍👍 good stuff! Great visuals.
Nice video Richard!😂🤩
Great video. I like reshaping my depth gauges took would add the teeth are offset. You’ll actually produce 2 chips.
A well tuned chain can really make a big difference. I’m guilty of filing my depth gauges to .030 but for some wild reason I can’t find a .025 it’s either a .020, .030, and for some reason, a .050. I guess for harvesters? I file to .030 and every third or fourth sharpening I’ll reset the depth gauges. Second and third sharpening and that chain is smooth. Proper depth gauges also help with cutting straight as well. A properly tuned chain will make a smaller or less powerful saw cut faster than a larger saw with an improper filing job.
Great video 👍
The fly in the ointment is that
If you're hand filing soon all the
Cutting teeth will be at a different height. So laying a flat
Metal gauge results in a different result tooth to tooth.
Re- calibration of tooth height
Using a chain grinder is the only
Way to get back to original
Chain to depth gauge relationship.
@@PurpleNovember I'm not saying that it can't be done and
I think it's great you have those
Skills. The reality is that a very significant number of folks who
Buy a chainsaw never reach your
Level of expertise. There are guys
That just buy a new chain so that they never have to sharpen them.
Good stuff. Thank you.
So a chain and depth gaige setting per woodtype. Wonder how much cutting perfornance you loose on sharp edge filed depth gauge instead of rounded egde depth gauge.
How saw chain cuts , by carlton is a good read . The old carlton file o plate faker gauage is worth it weight in gold !
Nice demestration
There is nothing like having a properly sharpened chain. The chain almost pulls itself through the cut. A lot of guys like to dog in and leverage the chain. This will dull your chain faster. Let the chain cut by the weight of the saw or thereabouts. You can use pressure but only to replicate the weight of the saw. Think of a hand saw. If you put a lot of pressure on it, it will not cut as cleanly. There is no need to push a good sharp chain.
Realy like gordys gauges..helped me alot ..I switched to stihl saws and only run there chain 🔗 nothing else .it's down fall is it eats files I hand file and it eats them..I ve found the echo files and xcut work best the actual stihl files realy don't cut it.
Try some Vallorbe files. Amick's usually has them for a fair price.
At the end of a day, I usually clean and check the power head and bar/drive cog and then sharpen chain(s) in the vice. That is when the love/hate thing comes into play with the flat file. I am a little tired, maybe a llittle unsteady and it is a real fight to keep that bastard-mill file from contacting my sharp tooth corners. I do not use a Dremel type device to sharpen, but sthey are a dream to shape and set the gauges! WaddaYaThink??? I also like the old timey flat depth gauges and Husqvarna has started supplying those again.
The flat plate style actually keeps a slope on the raker as you file it away. I think they are very good.
Dropping the gauges too low is a good way to get hit in the face with a bar too…and it ruins bore cutting.
Note to anyone out there. The Stihl 2 in 1 is great but it sets it to about .040 depth which is way too much for hardwoods. Makes a super grabby chain in ash or oak.
I take the flat file out of mine.
That's interesting I have the opposite problem with mine. I am taking micro chips after the 2 in 1. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. My 500 was pulling nicely into the wood before and after I need to lean on it or it's just spinning.
I've had some 20 and 25 inch or really there 24 inch stihl rs33 full chisel that had terrible rakers stock like it wouldn't cut..
Stihl FL2, FL3, FL4, 👍
I came to the same conclusion years age with rakers for my firewood processor they are 404 pitch and the rakers out of the box are 0.050 thousand over the life of the chain I may only do the rakers 3 times and I keep them at 0.035 to 0.040 thousand as it keeps the chain speed higher and you don't hear the motor lose RPM's it is a 44 HP diesel 13 years of running it I can hear everything its doing. I don't see a time difference cutting a 20inch round at 0.050 than at 0.035 if it was faster at 0.050 thats what I would do but its not. Its not faster with either one but the 0.035 is easier on the equipment
Great video! Excellent information...got a question for you Richard? Maybe you can help I'm looking for a 066 in really good condition having no luck finding one here in GA do you have any suggestions thanks in advance
That's a tough one. Hard to find a "lightly used" 30 year old commercial saw. They are out there, but that someone will want a pretty penny.
@@richardflagg3084 yeah I figured as much it's gonna be a collector saw that's the main reason for gently used condition lol... Willing to pay fair price for the right one thanks for the reply
Hey Richard, what’s the best way to get in touch with ya to have some saw work done? Thanks
Email is on my home page here on YT. You may not be able to see it on your mobile, try your computer where it says "more about this channel".
@@richardflagg3084 ok I’ll look there. I tried to look on mobile but didn’t see anything. Thanks buddy!
🔥🔥🔥👍
Funny you show a plainer.guess I should've waited before commenting
Oke boss mantap
That work bench is too clean. What's your secret?
Having the whole world looking at my bench doesn't hurt. I see a lot of guys with a messy and cluttered shop on UA-cam. I try to be mindful of what's in the background and what the bench looks like.
@@richardflagg3084 Good idea. I just couldn't implement it. I don't film anything though.
It's alot like a plainer
I neglected rakers for many years ..nothing better than smooth rakers..not a fan of over doing it