This generator's output voltage is likely regulated by a run capacitor so voltage will be frequency dependent. The higher the frequency the higher the voltage output. When you were loading the engine beyond its capacity the frequency was probably well below 60 hz which is why your voltage was so low. Engine is lacking the power to stay above 3600rpm. These cheap generators usually don't live up to their claimed output. Realistically this generator is probably only capable of around 700 watts continuously.
Yep. I've repaired a few of these before and it's the brushless design that has the spinning diodes on the rotor and run cap for excitation. They are decent if all you need to do is run a small power tool in an area where running grid power is not an option. I certainly wouldn't plug anything expensive or sensitive into it though.
@@mikeg3529 nearly everything has switching power supply's these days. so it wont hurt them. just look at the brick if it says 120/240 vac is a switching supply. its made to take anything in that range.
Remember, those cheap generators does not have a AVR (automatic voltage regulator) and is not meant for electronics, you need a generator that has a AVR so that it regulates its voltage automatically.
Yeah I was timing a high school cross country race and I told the coach they needed to rent a generator to run the equipment cause there wasn’t power where we were. Well his buddy had one that he let him use to save money. Luckily I had them plug a surge protector into the extension cord cause I’m real protective of my computers. I tend to go overboard. I didn’t think they get a crappy generator and I started smelling something burning and no power to my printer. They actually fried two surge protectors until I had a chance to see what they were doing and stopped them. I decided to hook my inverter to my truck and send my wife with a thumb drive to print. Luckily I fully charged the laptops before going. I told them in the future if it doesn’t have AVR then we aren’t hooking it up to my electronics.
I have the Harbor Freight Tailgator version. I use it to run our refrigerator and our upright freezer during power outages. I only run one at a time. I switch between them every few hours. It does the trick for us. No damage to the generator or the appliances. The generator does beat its brains out when the Sears Kenmore 15 cubic freezer built by Electrolux compressor starts up. But, it does cycle on and the generator is able to sustain it. As for the fridge, we have a Sears Kenmore Elite 21 cubic ft bottom freezer built by LG. The generator works hard (but no near as much with the freezer) upon compressor startup. After that, same thing generator holds it. When I open the door of either the fridge or freezer the light brightness fluctuates. But, again...... I've used the generator around 30 times over the last 6 years and it's done the job.
I've used the my HF Storm Cat (red) for years. I've adjusted the idle to 60 hertz exactly. I have an hour meter on it... Over 100 hours. I have the Predator 2500 as well. That's a workhorse for sure.
This is virtually identical to the Harbor Freight "Tailgator" generator that they used to sell with coupons that used to put them around 100 bucks. I still have a "Chicago Electric" version that ran 900w, and while it wasn't the cleanest power, it is a relatively quiet, useful camping generator and I found it quite useful for running things that were fairly tolerant of voltage swings and a bad output waveform. The pull starter is long gone - I start it now with a power drill and socket that fits the flywheel bolt!
I remember my dad got one for with the coupon for $88! Didnt use it much but it saved my sisters basement when the neighborhoods power went out and we pumped out the basement sump. Its good to have for a quick medium load in a pinch.
So small engine guy here. The red fuel means it's non ethanol mixed fuel. Makes it super easy to tell what is or isn't mixed with oil. The smell of gas in the tank is gas from the factory tested. A majority of the time factory fuel is sucked out but does leave a smell
None of the “truefuel” products have ethanol which is very nice. They are rather expensive though. We started running ethanol free gas in our PPV fans and other small engine equipment on our trucks many years ago. The carb and fuel lines definitely don’t like ethanol lol.
Haha I was just thinking about how incredibly annoying listening to those generators would be for hours. At least with this video he doesn’t seem to be doing it at 4am!! 😅
I’m wondering if Tyler has a second property he films at. If the property he filmed the remote lawnmower is the only location he has., I wouldn’t be worried about having him as a neighbor. Now if he starts testing fireworks 🎆 💥🎇then I might have a concern.
I bought 3 of three of them for 60 each about 10 years ago. I kinda knew the voltage and freq were going to bee all over the place. I spent years as a generator mechanic so no surprise. But they are great for running stuff like you said. I mostly ran lights with them
Cordless angle grinders have a decent amount of power now, or so I hear. Especially the latest models. I would be eager to give them a try if I was lugging a corded tool around a junkyard!
@@Heizenberg32 Yeah, modern cordless tools are awesome. Used Makita when I contracted with the navy and they're awesome tools with lackluster batteries, but lately I've been using a milwaukee circular saw, reciprocating saw, and 4.5" angle grinder and I don't intend to buy corded tools again unless they aren't ever gonna move around. They hold their own, and I don't have to worry about stalling or power drain.
There is a screw on this generator to adjust the output voltage, since yours is outputting way too high, you should really look up a video on it and adjust the voltage accordingly lol
@-_-DJ-_--- from bordercenter.org, highlighting a summary of the EPA rules for imported engines: "Before a small engine can be imported into the U.S., it must be certified and labeled: In order to be certified, test data must be submitted to EPA, together with other information demonstrating that the engine meets applicable standards. Before importation, each certified engine must be labeled to indicate compliance with the rules. If an engine is not labeled, the engine is presumed by U.S government agencies to be uncertified. Therefore, the engine may not be imported into the U.S." Each engine requires testing to be imported. I'm sure you can find the same thing within the EPA regulations, however it's over 300 pages long and I'm not going to search through all that to satisfy some random know-it-all on youtube.
I have 2 of those generators which have been very reliable and work fine for powering a battery charger, drill, grinder. They are Chinese clones of a 1970s Yamaha generator. I paid $79 for mine at Harbor Freight many years ago.
I wish I'd known about these last year when Tulsa lost power for almost a week. We could have at least had some lights & I could have charged my power banks to run my tablet on. I wouldn't risk the tablet just the cheaper $25-30 power banks that can run my tablet for nearly 24 hours before running out. I had to resort to a crappy solar panel & this rechargeable big battery bank that I sent back because it did less than my 20,000 ma power banks.
a generator going under the nominated voltage in full load is more dangerous in the sense that it will draw more amps and heat the cables and that can cause fires
This baby generator isn't heating any cords up... the engine just doesn't have the power to do anything like that. At most the engine bogs down. I believe it also has a break set for 8 amps max.
It is what it is, I've had one like that for years now, paid 85 bucks for it on e-bay shipping included. Good enough to make a pot of coffee when the power goes out and run some lights, and I've run a stand-by TV using over the air antenna maybe not recommended but good enough till the power came back. A tip for all small engines, keep a can of carb cleaner on hand and give them a shot in the carb for easier starting.
Electronics that are rated for 120VAC on the input typically use an internal transformer to step it down to 15V or 12V and then rectify it to DC(whatever the internals might need). The transformers should be rated for higher than 120V due to variances in outlets and for safety by a reasonable margin. Nowadays some devices are rated for EU and US use, so they can handle both 120 and 220VAC.
Depending on the design though, lots of electronics that can handle 220 OR 110 have to switch between the transformer outputs, so if the voltage is at, say 140 to 190, then it's too high for the lower voltage tap and too low for the higher voltage tap. Either way would hurt that piece of equipment. I know there are auto transformers out there too, with multiple outputs that switch by themselves based on the input voltage, but they're usually only in expensive stuff (and trust me, they can blow up from power surges too; stupid AEP ruined the magnaflux machine at work).
@@FuckGoogle502 modern power supplies turn the input into DC, then switch it at a much higher frequency, feed it to a tiny transformer and after that regulate it to meet the power supply output spec. Many phone and laptop chargers need 100-250 volts and they will do all the work themselves.
I use this geny about 10 times a year just to power the 3 light bulbs I have in a winter cabin. And it's prefect for that, because it's lightweight and sips fuel when not fully loaded.
For $200 you could get a 40W solar, inverter, and battery that could prolly power 9 lightbulbs for ~5 hrs a night without draining the stored power beyond 50%. Don't use generators for such a tiny application. And don't use this one for anything. It will burn your cabin down eventually.
Electrician here, the extension cord didn't help you at all. Never run a genny at 100% rated load unless its an emergency. Always run a generator 5 minutes and let its RPM settle before using if its not an inverter generator. You probably burned out the capacitor running 8 amps on it for 3 hours 20 minutes. If you were to buy one of these, get an off the shelf AC-AC voltage regulator for use with electronics.
Pretend that you're explaining this answer to Tommy Chong I'm so stoned right now, so bear with me. With the regulator upgrade and probably like six extra mufflers, could I run a small roku TV and two light bulbs off one of these?
To be honest, the cheapest generator the performance is definitely not sufficient, but I bought a Proyama engine before, which was quite good and the price was also acceptable.I love how well thought out unit it is, and funnel tube screwing directly into the oil drain and fill hole blew me away. The generator runs perfect, and starts very easy. Easy to pull start. Only ran It a few hours but so far so good. Really quiet, just as quiet as a Honda. Also the same size and weight as a Honda eu220i but way more power. This thing starts and runs my Campers 13,500 btu air conditioner without an issue. Barely hear it pull down when the A/C kicks in. It has a built in carbon monoxide shut down. To test this I put it in my shed and closed the door. It shut down in maybe 30 seconds. I brought itnack outside in the fresh air and it fired right back up. No stupid reset procedure.I recommend the proyama genorator.
Probably just People discovering it since it was so cheap and they've balanced the supply/demand- make it cheap at first, then when it gets attention slowly jack the price up a few bucks every few weeks. Not really inflation, that's more of a general thing that applies to everything rather than a Company balancing how much folks are willing to pay for a product ;) Inflation is pretty bad these Days though, we've been breaking records in the last couple of Years and I hope it slows down =\
Mine said 30:1 for break in and if you aren't spitting a little oil out the exhaust you don't have enough. Mine is inverter and it has a lever for low range to save fuel and high range, flat out for running bigger loads. I just bought it because I was curious and wanted to test it as it was only $150.
@robertkubrick3738 That is a good deal. I did see a video from Taryl fixes all recently where he discuses the 2 stroke oils and how they are more forgiving than they used to be.
@robertkubrick3738 Yes, they do! They work better in cold weather for one. All our small boat engines were 2 stroke on HMC ships when I was in the Navy. Lately, I have been looking at the small Diesel engine for some small applications because they will run on just about anything. I plan on getting half a dozen of these before the government bans fuel in 10 years. The politicians gave gone insane in my country.
that generator would be fine for anything that is basically not a smart device. so basically run the chest freezer if there is no power, power tools and so forth.
@@waltdog5791 Alright, I'mma tell you why. So called "smart electronics" use switching power supply which can work on 90v and 140v without much problems and also you said it's better for a chest freezer wich is not true because the compressor inside the freezer is powered by single phase induction motor, rotating speed of this motor is dependent on the frequency (which the generator had problems to stabilize) which can lead to higher power draw and temperatures the low voltage in the motor will translate to higher currents to maintain the same power and higher currents mean more heat which can kill the motor
Cheap wayward generators are fine for all electronics if you just use them to charge batteries chained with well-regulated ac converters to connect sensitive gear to.
Or you could just buy a proper generator with a regulator built in... Not arguing that these little generators can't be useful, but if what you need to run wants nice, clean power just start with what you need instead of jury-rigging it. Your stuff will last a lot longer.
most electrical devices have a +- 10% voltage range built in for listing. 145 is a little above that and you would def see degredation of device life. i wouldnt say it was dangerous, but def not ideal. however given any load it will drop voltage to a more accetable, albeit high, range.
That's a veiled compliment if I've ever heard one. I don't recall Tyler ever mention he had any concern about his weight one way or the other. I'm not quite sure why you feel the need to mention any "gains" Tyler is making since you have absolutely no idea what Tyler's thoughts are on it. Seems to me your compliment was you saying "Tyler needed to lose weight and it's good to see he's losing it." Your comment in itself is rude and a form of body shaming because you feel everyone should meet your standards instead of their own.
Hold the essay, its not that serious. You also do not know Tyler's thoughts so lets not project yours on to the OP. Enjoy Tyler's gains or not. Dont be jealous, hit the gym and you can get some gains too! Then maybe you'll finally get your very own compliment, Cheers!
@@ED-wt8xs wow. In two sentences you managed to body shame me, condescend, and still prove not have the situational awareness to understand why your words are degrading. Sad.
@@krawnjobGod, you're soft. It was a compliment, unlike _my comment_ which is an insult, neither of which were veiled. How about you try not getting bent out of shape on behalf of other people?
@@DH-xw6jp What you think is a compliment is only a compliment if the person had a goal and made you aware of it. You know nothing about Tyler and his health and neither do I, but you assume that his losing weight was something he was aspiring to. Maybe he was, and maybe he wasn’t, but what if you said that to someone who had cancer and was losing weight from that, but that person had told nobody about their condition? What if you told someone who was anorexic or bulimic? Now you’re complimenting that person on the ravages of the illness they are dealing with, and you’ve extended on the stereotype that body image is something that others should be up to YOUR standards on. I took your comments about me with a grain of salt because I’m happy with who I am, even if my body isn’t up to your standards. I am successful, want for nothing, and love my life, even if my belly jiggles like a bowl of firm Jell-O if you slap it. Point is, until someone makes you aware that they are working toward a specific goal, you don't know anything and should keep your opinions to yourself.
Spend your money on a generator that can power your whole house, install an inlet on your panel and an interlock kit. I did that a few years ago and it's one of the best investments I've made. I converted mine to natural gas and have unlimited fuel. I did a few videos on it.
This generator is rated at 1200 watts surge momentarily and 1,000 watts continuous which it will do. The heat gun at 1,200 watts is too much of a load for this unit. There is an adjustment under the right side of the tank which allows you to adjust the voltage/hertz. It needs to be turned down to 120-125 volts and 60 hertz.. Easy to do. Chinese QC is lacking. This unit is great for induction loads: motors and small heaters, not for sensitive equipment. I use this for electric hedge clippers far from my house. Tyler, read up on this unit before you critique it. It is a cool little unit if used properly.
If I remember correctly, most devices in the US (while they don't specify it) should be able to run off of up to 130 or 140v just fine (mainly to compensate for those who happen to live near substations or other electrically upstream areas), though the main thing I would be personally concerned about is the peek-to-peek voltage of the output, since most meters will only show the RMS (or in other words, the average) voltage, and if the peek-to-peek voltage is too high, then it could start to damage electronic devices that are plugged into it.
I would have missed the big yellow decal about the fuel valve, too. It's the excited 10 year old in us, wanting an engine to start as soon as possible. Right on Dude, minor setback.
Hi Tyler, I bought my first generator like this one in 2008, which had a 63cc engine. Over the past few years, the engine size is been increased to 79cc (I think). Yes, this generator is very crude and only useful for running basic, non-sensitive stuff. It is brushless and uses a 15 uF capacitor to energize the field thus, voltage regulation is very poor and the sinewave output is very distorted. The output voltage is determined by the electrical load and the engine speed. I consider the maximum output power to be 800 watts, trying to draw more power causes the output voltage to quickly sag. There is a 10mm nut on a shaft next to the gas shutoff that you can adjust for engine speed. With no load, I suggest adusting for an output voltage of 130 to 135 volts, which provides the best overall output voltage compromise. In the US, induction motors have an input voltage range of 105 to 125 volts. Although, I don't recommend running anything other than a fan or light bulbs. Don't use it with a refrigerator or air conditioner, you will fry both the generator and appliance. The typical US kitchen refrigerator pulls a 20 amp surge when starting. The advantages of this little generator is low cost and light weight.
i have a honda ex1000 that i got for a project and the little generator has been really great. charges the batteries to run all the accessories in my car and some heat or ac very well.
I'd be curious how many hours it runs for before it breaks in comparison to other generators. I'd bet with low to medium use through a year you get one maybe two years out of it.
I run mine several times a year at deer camp, often all night. I've had it about 7 or more years. When it's warm, it runs an window AC. Also, flood lights to clean deer and to cook by. During the day I charge battery packs to power my phone and laptop. It stays at camp because I'm not worried about it being stolen. It cost me under $100 when I bought it. Worth the money!
I got one for $70 at least a decade ago. I test it twice a year to be sure it's ready if needed. I've got a power inverter that can run a small 'garage' heater in my basement. During an extended power outage in the winter i can run the furnace off of a deep cycle battery and inverter, and recharge that with the DC output of the generator to the battery and get clean power out indefinitely.
while the mini jenny I own is a different brand name, it looks almost exactly the same as yours, the only difference is mine's 240v (and I suspect a lower wattage due to the difference in voltage) Output differences (and the "fun" they cause) aside, its a handy piece of equipment, but I did come across one irritating issue: Once you're finished using it, turn the fuel tap off and let it run dry because if you let it stand for a while, the fuel can turn to varnish in the carb which leads you to the "fun" adventure of stripping, cleaning and rebuilding the carb, which is NOT a fun experience 🤬
@@refactorearThis. Not maintaining = Problems. It's always the trivial easy stuff like battery maintainers and old fuel that takes the fun away. Goes from a quick blast around to a parts house run and or waiting on gaskets.
The "engineered" fuel in the can may fare better in that regard. It is supposed to be stable for 2 years, as opposed to the 30-60 days for gas from the gas station. It is still best to be in the habit of doing exactly as you said, just in case, and in case you decide to start mixing your own 2 cycle gas. I run all of my gas engines dry as a matter of course, even if I'll be using it again in a week, because it is a good habit to be in. And I use fuel stabilizer. Doing a carb job isn't exactly fun, but it also isn't the worst thing in the world. You don't want to be doing it in an emergency situation when your #1 priority is getting backup power going.
1:24 Tyler: "How much you wanna bet I can get this in here without spilling any of it?" *literally splashes all over the top of the generator and a little on the table* Tyler: "Look how good I am! It's hard being this talented"
I have a feeling that this thing is adjustable. I think you can adjust the throttle response to the output and make it set the output as usable as possible.
Putting the killawatt at the downstream end of a long extension cord with a max load on it will use 100 watts just warming the wires. Would have been interested to see the frequency on it with a load. That geny is just as advertised. It will likely run your freezer or you fridge off and on in a power outage. Also it will be light enough for your granny to drag out of the shed and start. Get just what is advertised and you pay for
Yeah, I would only use this on resistive loads like heat guns and electric griddles/kettles. Or little motors like a small sump pump, circle saw, or something like that. But with this small of an output, better to just use battery power tools and pack a few spares with ya.
@@leadgindairy3709 Nah, use battery lights or propane. Only a few things piss off a real camper more than all the city-slickers busting out their annoying generators at night.
@FuckGoogle502 f-ck I can't stand generators at a campsite. A few years ago a party was near our site and they were running a 3600W open frame generator to charge phones and run a TV. Total overkill, and so much noise.
I'm impressed. I have one similar that is Inverter that puts out single phase 220V 800w. Mine uses 40:1 fuel (30:1 at break in) and if you aren't spitting a little oil out of the exhaust, you probably don't have enough oil in your mix. I forgot to say that mine has a switch on it for low load and high load range.
I think that the acceptable volt range for US electrical plugs is 110 to 125 V. 110 V is most frequently seen in old construction, while only the newest construction has 125 V. All devices are made to run Between these voltages, and most of them can run between 110 and 240 V so that they work in countries that have those higher voltages.
I still find it kinda hard to believe that you guys in the US have between 110 to 125 V whereas us in Europe got 220 V at least thats how it is in my country Romania
@@edward_mst6762 here in America we also have a commercial 208v 3 phase, which is much more efficient then the standard home 240v 1 phase. There is also 480v 3 phase that is relegated to direct wired industrial equipment.
I got one like this from my local home big box store when the regular price was about $100 and the black Friday sale was $80. I used it to charge my deep cycle battery for my trolling motor and used a 2nd hand modified inverter. It meant I could power my boiler circulation pump during power outages. 30 years later it still works and is my backup unit.
Sort of surprised this guy has never seen one of these, they were everywhere when I got mine about 10 years back. (I think mine is the Chicago Electric version.) Little thing's sole purpose in life is to run my sump pump during short power outages and it has done that task without issue for years. If the outage is extended, I'll kick on the big gennie, but for an hour or so, all I care about is the sump pump, and this one is just easy peasy, lol.
That voltage drop will seriously damage a compressor in a refrigerator or freezer. To be fair I have one of these little generators I bought years ago. It is great for hand power tools and job site lighting because it is light and easy to transport. For the price it was a great deal, but not a solution for household appliances during power failures. Incidentally I removed the pull start assembly and start it with a cordless drill, way easier to crank.
About 7 years ago I bought a similar version of this from Harbor Freight. It is rated 700/900. I paid $90 plus tax at the time, using a coupon. I run a window ac unit at deer camp on it. The unit says it's 7 or 7.5 amps. I forget. The generator does bog a bit when the compressor comes on. It runs the ac all night and then some on less than a tank of gas. It's a beast!
9:29 its okay for most electronics like phone chargers or laptop chargers to run on 130 ish volts because they are made to handle up to 240 volts and they can just simply pull less current at high voltages. 10:17 its also fine for things to run on under 115 volts it will just make them run less efficiently since they have to pull more amps to create about the same wattage
Those generators are workhorse.. But its recommended to set the output frequency as most are way off from the 60hz...there is a set screw to side of the generator you can adjust while using a meter thats capable of reading the frequency of them... I got the pulsar 1200w same machines different "sticker brands" working over 9 years.. Also replace the crappy sparkplug they come with and they last a long time..
I have had mine for about that long too. Change the spark plug to am NGK everytime I store it i turn the gas off and let it run out of fuel. I also run non ethanol fuel.
9:17 - In the U.S it is lower than that, prolly not good to have it going that high. I am no electrician either, I almost became one though and retained somewhat enough information to get by though! Here in Australia we use 240-250Volt power so a full 2 Litre electric kettle will boil within maybe 60 to 90 seconds. In the U.S it would take ages to boil so you use gas (gas as in the literal natural gas on a stovetop, not gas as in the liquid petroleum that you call gas even thought it is a liquid...)
Well, the standard for the US is 120 volts, so going over that can be risky as the appliances and such as the US can only handle 120 safely to just under 150 (risky, but generally safe). Places like the UK have 230 volt standard, and their appliances are built to allow 230 volts safely. The top amount of volts in the US you can reach before its very dangerous is 150.
I have the same generator just few years older on a blackout I was able to run a standard refrigerator white two-door on a full tank for 4 hour plus That's n 1 gallon of gas tank size I recommend it it's two stroke you got to mix oil with the gas but it's less of a headache than checking your oil all the time if you're low you can blow the engine.
had the harbor freight one for years. it still runs strong. these are 100% not rated for 1000 watts. there all built the same but some makers slap that on them. some shady sellers will even slap a 1200 watt sticker on them. there 800 watts max. run it any harder then that and pop will go the generator head.
Uh, no actually. A metric gallon (aka British Gallon) is 4.54 Liters/160 ounces. Meanwhile, in the US, a gallon is 3.78 Liters/128 ounces. So the 1.1 gallon capacity isn’t that far off. After all, at the start of the video when he first opened the lid, he said he smelled gas. So it’s highly possible the manufacturer had put some gas in to test it. Not likely, but still a possibility.
@@lloydstone1068 heh, I was trying to make a joke, was not aware that British gallons are referred to as "metric". "Metric gallon" just sounds like an oxymoron XD
Electrical Engineer here - The behavior is quite unstable but for a super cheap generator it is the (Very) least acceptable. Formally, from the standard point of view of a supply of AC 120V (Single-phase) and 127V (Single-phase with a three-phase system supply), the Operating Margins are +/-10% [I know that some countries are less tolerant of something like 5%] but... For 120V a range of 108-132V is expected and for 127V 114-139.7 That extra Voltage of 140V is somewhat high but relatively tolerable for certain Mainly Resistive loads such as Incandescent Bulbs, Heaters. BUT WHAT IS WORRYING IS THE FREQUENCY DIFFERENCE (The tolerance here is strict, deviating +1Hz is harmful). Because this desynchrony affects the behavior of the Inductors such as motors and transformers. (Experiencing an increase in the output voltage and in the case of equipment that uses the AC mains signal as clock frequency, they will advance or lag depending on the case) *In fact, it is very likely that the frequency lag could be the cause of the output surge voltage (this since the voltage we measure is actually an RMS measurement, or effective value dependent on the wave shape, frequency and amplitude)* -But also the frequency offset could be a consequence of empty load operation. so we would need more frequency measurements to conclude formally. -It is completely normal for the voltage at No Load. be higher. (even with batteries this happens, just like in a car, the battery voltage is not the same at idle as during acceleration and when off). Regarding the behavior under load, this is not very good, but it suggests that more than a problem with the generator, it is in the acceleration regulator, which only makes 2 steps between low load and heavy load, it could be worth trying to use the accelerator manually to compensate for the variation between the deficit and excess in specific loads. But Otherwise, Adding an AC Voltage Regulator to the output would help a little (In fact, a ferroresonant AC regulator would be perfect for this application). Although at the expense of losing capacity due to loss of power factor and transformer heat. In summary In a scenario, in an emergency or where you are looking to have an electrical energy supply that consists of a few incandescent light bulbs and an electric grill to cook or heat water for 3 hours with less than 1 gallon of gasoline, IT IS PASSABLE. If you have a delicate load or it will be used frequently, you definitely need a better option.
110-140 is pretty normal for a genny like this, and fine for all but the most sensitive eletronics. Almost everything today has a switching PSU that takes whatever up to 240. I've seen ranges from as low as 80vAC to 260vAC. Turns the timings down a bit (if you can) and it should also drop the voltage. It also helps when you don't overload it.
yeah, I bought one of these many years ago. Even believe it's the same brand, but one from likely 9 or 10 years ago. I believe it's rated 1200 max, 1,000 continuous. I basically bought it because at the time I used all corded lawn tools.Battery technology was not the same then, and quarter tools were definitely superior. With the exception of gas tools, but I hate cleaning carburetors. This was my solution, as I could run any single corded lawn tool off of it with ease. This way I was highly portable throughout the yard. And only one carb to clean, not 7! ...Ive since gone w brushless/battery tools. But this thing was great for a while
I have the pulsar version of this generator, but mine is labeled for 75cc, with two outlets, a voltage light, and a charge port simular to yours I vouch to say it has about 50+ hours run time and it has been through a few minor repairs such as new start string and related parts, spark plug, air filter upgrade, ignition coil, and carb cleaning, and fuel tank. It's about 3 years old. It hasn't given up yet and I am kinda attached to it since it helped me and my mother go through some tough times after losing power a couple of days after a storm since this one was the first I bought I never let it get wet as with any generator I own now I been running lucas 2 cycle oil the whole time I have owned it one thing I do is remove all loads and then turn off the fuel and let the machine starve of fuel I have a larger geenerac now and I use this one for camping or tailgating and has always started These little machines are resilient when taken care of
The low & high voltage is due to the cheapness of the boost circuitry in the inverter. Expensive inverter generators have what you can think of as "gears" like in a car or bike. Cheap ones are like "direct drive" which are always a compromise at both the low and high end.
this little guy is actually nice to have, i have one like it for smaller tasks, and most electronics have protection circuitry that would prevent damage
Yes, overvoltage and undervoltage will both kill your devices. The reason is that undervoltage will cause higher current draws due to the power trying to be constant. And higher voltage will break dielectrics in your devices and potential barriers in transistors.
Depends on your usecase. Actually its not really bad for modern devices with a switch mode power supply (like an phonecharger, laptop, ...), they are rated from 80V up to 270V and take nearly any frequency, thats because they rectify the AC at first to DC
Thats a Harbor Freight 900w Storm Cat. I've had one for years. Paid 98 bucks for it. I've only had to replaced the pull string and carburetor on it, both together were under 25 bucks. It's able to run a small heater and lights in a camper all night for 8 hours! Its very efficient and portable. Great design with lots of aftermarket parts online. Just bring your 2stroke oil.
I've just bought a similar 230VAC generator for €85 here in NL at a small trader. Model 950, should be a 2HP engine and 1000W continuesly via a brushless generator and 12V according to the specs. No 12VDC output like yours, hole is there! And only a meager 450 Watts at 2 Amp's, 20 Ohm winding resistance and heats up quickly. I do the measurements in a similar way. And the generator itself looks a bit smaller then yours, that's almost sticking outside the fuel tank. Mine has 1,5 cm spacers between the tank and the engine/generator combo on both sides, so a bigger one can fit underneath. Also on the plate with the Euro socket and lousy voltmeter is a 12VDC plug, not connected, and an AC breaker, also not connected! Well, gonna use it just as you said, for non critical applications and charging batteries via a good charger! I also have a perfect running Robin LG071 with Subaru engine, and a Honda copy 700W inverter I'm tinkering with 😉
Got a little 2-stroke Chicago generator off craigslist for $20. It was leaking fuel bad with the petcock open so I hauled it home, pulled the carb bowl off and found that the float was stuck. Easy fix, and now I have a little generator for emergencies. My only complaint is how loud it is.
Electrical engineer here, normal voltage range in the US (ANSI range A) is 114-126V. That’s what you should expect your utility to deliver the majority of the time. Though you can push it to range B (110-127v) and still expect most things to work. 140v is uh, pretty bad.
This generator's output voltage is likely regulated by a run capacitor so voltage will be frequency dependent. The higher the frequency the higher the voltage output. When you were loading the engine beyond its capacity the frequency was probably well below 60 hz which is why your voltage was so low. Engine is lacking the power to stay above 3600rpm. These cheap generators usually don't live up to their claimed output. Realistically this generator is probably only capable of around 700 watts continuously.
6
@@tristinlees8875 6.5?
Yep. I've repaired a few of these before and it's the brushless design that has the spinning diodes on the rotor and run cap for excitation.
They are decent if all you need to do is run a small power tool in an area where running grid power is not an option. I certainly wouldn't plug anything expensive or sensitive into it though.
Harbor Freight "clone" reports like 900W max...so on part with that
@@mikeg3529 nearly everything has switching power supply's these days. so it wont hurt them. just look at the brick if it says 120/240 vac is a switching supply. its made to take anything in that range.
Electrician here, voltage wise you want between 110-125 in the US, that generator will slowly melt shit in my opinion
Or to charge batteries chained with well-regulated ac converters to connect sensitive gear to.
If you read anything electric compliance it will state 110 volts to 240 volts. Etc
@@powertvau, it’s not 110 to 240, it’s 110 OR 220/240.
Depends, our house gets around 120, some places only get 110
@@shadyops3535 some appliances can run between 110 and 240 volts completely fine, mu MacBook-charger says 100-240v
Just waiting for the companion video where Tyler tries all kinds of bad fuels for the generator until it dies.
I am here for it
No I want to see what electronics he can destroy with it.
@@next1838both!!! 😂😂😂
I thought that's what this one was going to be already LOL
Plz do this one
Tyler not recommending something, because it’s not safe actually is hilarious!😅
its cause he didn't wear the toast shirt
It was brought to you in part by the man who strapped a lawnchair to a remote control lawnmower and rode it up a hill. lol
@@timmytwotimes9936What do you mean? That was genius! 😂
Remember, those cheap generators does not have a AVR (automatic voltage regulator) and is not meant for electronics, you need a generator that has a AVR so that it regulates its voltage automatically.
Yeah I was timing a high school cross country race and I told the coach they needed to rent a generator to run the equipment cause there wasn’t power where we were. Well his buddy had one that he let him use to save money. Luckily I had them plug a surge protector into the extension cord cause I’m real protective of my computers. I tend to go overboard. I didn’t think they get a crappy generator and I started smelling something burning and no power to my printer. They actually fried two surge protectors until I had a chance to see what they were doing and stopped them. I decided to hook my inverter to my truck and send my wife with a thumb drive to print. Luckily I fully charged the laptops before going. I told them in the future if it doesn’t have AVR then we aren’t hooking it up to my electronics.
Better yet a pure sine wave inverter for any induction motors or sensitive electronics.
Yes they don't but use a singwave inverter off generator and your covered. For way less than the cost of a generator wit it built in
What is the purpose of this machine then if not to run electronics???????
@@ClassicalEnthusiast to run non induction motors or heaters etc
I have the Harbor Freight Tailgator version.
I use it to run our refrigerator and our upright freezer during power outages. I only run one at a time. I switch between them every few hours.
It does the trick for us. No damage to the generator or the appliances.
The generator does beat its brains out when the Sears Kenmore 15 cubic freezer built by Electrolux compressor starts up. But, it does cycle on and the generator is able to sustain it.
As for the fridge, we have a Sears Kenmore Elite 21 cubic ft bottom freezer built by LG.
The generator works hard (but no near as much with the freezer) upon compressor startup. After that, same thing generator holds it.
When I open the door of either the fridge or freezer the light brightness fluctuates.
But, again...... I've used the generator around 30 times over the last 6 years and it's done the job.
I've used the my HF Storm Cat (red) for years. I've adjusted the idle to 60 hertz exactly. I have an hour meter on it... Over 100 hours. I have the Predator 2500 as well. That's a workhorse for sure.
"IT'S NOT EVEN THAT LOUD" Yells Tyler. 😂😂😂😂😂
This is virtually identical to the Harbor Freight "Tailgator" generator that they used to sell with coupons that used to put them around 100 bucks. I still have a "Chicago Electric" version that ran 900w, and while it wasn't the cleanest power, it is a relatively quiet, useful camping generator and I found it quite useful for running things that were fairly tolerant of voltage swings and a bad output waveform. The pull starter is long gone - I start it now with a power drill and socket that fits the flywheel bolt!
For 100 bucks you might as well take the engine out a put it on a bicycle.
I remember my dad got one for with the coupon for $88! Didnt use it much but it saved my sisters basement when the neighborhoods power went out and we pumped out the basement sump. Its good to have for a quick medium load in a pinch.
I bought one of those years back, worked great till someone broke into my truck and stole it 🤨
@@01keyboardI hate thieves 😠
@jessihawkins9116 yeah it was around Christmas, had all my kids toys hiding in thier too that they stole. Smashed the windows.
My grandfather had two strokes
Wow , badadump.........
But he was playing golf 😂
Bro 💀
You know what they say, 3rd is the one with the treasure chest
We call that a 2 pump chump
So small engine guy here. The red fuel means it's non ethanol mixed fuel. Makes it super easy to tell what is or isn't mixed with oil. The smell of gas in the tank is gas from the factory tested. A majority of the time factory fuel is sucked out but does leave a smell
None of the “truefuel” products have ethanol which is very nice. They are rather expensive though. We started running ethanol free gas in our PPV fans and other small engine equipment on our trucks many years ago. The carb and fuel lines definitely don’t like ethanol lol.
Tyler is that neighbor.
Haha I was just thinking about how incredibly annoying listening to those generators would be for hours.
At least with this video he doesn’t seem to be doing it at 4am!! 😅
It’s funny how he’s running generators but speaking softly! 😂
I’m wondering if Tyler has a second property he films at. If the property he filmed the remote lawnmower is the only location he has., I wouldn’t be worried about having him as a neighbor. Now if he starts testing fireworks 🎆 💥🎇then I might have a concern.
I wish I had a neighbor like him.
Not to be weird but war is his home
I bought 3 of three of them for 60 each about 10 years ago. I kinda knew the voltage and freq were going to bee all over the place. I spent years as a generator mechanic so no surprise. But they are great for running stuff like you said. I mostly ran lights with them
They are really great for running an angle grinder in a junkyard or a small air compressor to air up a tire in the middle of nowhere
Cordless angle grinders have a decent amount of power now, or so I hear. Especially the latest models. I would be eager to give them a try if I was lugging a corded tool around a junkyard!
thats literally what i use mine for lol. angle grinder or sawzall
No
@@Heizenberg32they are expensive as well as the batteries so they may not be feasible if theres a lot of cutting to get done.
@@Heizenberg32 Yeah, modern cordless tools are awesome. Used Makita when I contracted with the navy and they're awesome tools with lackluster batteries, but lately I've been using a milwaukee circular saw, reciprocating saw, and 4.5" angle grinder and I don't intend to buy corded tools again unless they aren't ever gonna move around. They hold their own, and I don't have to worry about stalling or power drain.
There is a screw on this generator to adjust the output voltage, since yours is outputting way too high, you should really look up a video on it and adjust the voltage accordingly lol
It varies wayyy too much for any setting to fix it, 100-140 is insane
Project farm needs to do his testing on this too!
The gas smell right out of the box is because its tested for quality control, thats surprising for its price
It's tested for emission compliance. They don't give a rats ass about quality.
@@Krankie_V emissions testing on the cheapest 2 stroke engine available 🤣🤣🤣
@@zerodegrees8 it can't be sold in the USA without emissions testing.
@@Krankie_V They sure as hell aren't testing every single one.
@-_-DJ-_--- from bordercenter.org, highlighting a summary of the EPA rules for imported engines:
"Before a small engine can be imported into the U.S., it must be certified and labeled:
In order to be certified, test data must be submitted to EPA, together with other information demonstrating that the engine meets applicable standards.
Before importation, each certified engine must be labeled to indicate compliance with the rules.
If an engine is not labeled, the engine is presumed by U.S government agencies to be uncertified. Therefore, the engine may not be imported into the U.S."
Each engine requires testing to be imported. I'm sure you can find the same thing within the EPA regulations, however it's over 300 pages long and I'm not going to search through all that to satisfy some random know-it-all on youtube.
I have 2 of those generators which have been very reliable and work fine for powering a battery charger, drill, grinder. They are Chinese clones of a 1970s Yamaha generator. I paid $79 for mine at Harbor Freight many years ago.
Like to have one
I wish I'd known about these last year when Tulsa lost power for almost a week. We could have at least had some lights & I could have charged my power banks to run my tablet on. I wouldn't risk the tablet just the cheaper $25-30 power banks that can run my tablet for nearly 24 hours before running out. I had to resort to a crappy solar panel & this rechargeable big battery bank that I sent back because it did less than my 20,000 ma power banks.
Tyler is that neighbor that if you ever needed to barrow anything bet he would have it
he’s also that neighbor who leaves a generator running for 3hr 20min. that must have been a treat for the neighbors lol
@@A1Zealot I know he said it wasn't that loud but I still feel sorry for them I hope no one was trying to sleep
Just don't ask to borrow spaghetti
@@A1Zealot was thinking the same.
@@dewflower7298 don't think. It messes everything up.
a generator going under the nominated voltage in full load is more dangerous in the sense that it will draw more amps and heat the cables and that can cause fires
No
This baby generator isn't heating any cords up... the engine just doesn't have the power to do anything like that. At most the engine bogs down. I believe it also has a break set for 8 amps max.
It is what it is, I've had one like that for years now, paid 85 bucks for it on e-bay shipping included. Good enough to make a pot of coffee when the power goes out and run some lights, and I've run a stand-by TV using over the air antenna maybe not recommended but good enough till the power came back. A tip for all small engines, keep a can of carb cleaner on hand and give them a shot in the carb for easier starting.
Electronics that are rated for 120VAC on the input typically use an internal transformer to step it down to 15V or 12V and then rectify it to DC(whatever the internals might need). The transformers should be rated for higher than 120V due to variances in outlets and for safety by a reasonable margin. Nowadays some devices are rated for EU and US use, so they can handle both 120 and 220VAC.
Depending on the design though, lots of electronics that can handle 220 OR 110 have to switch between the transformer outputs, so if the voltage is at, say 140 to 190, then it's too high for the lower voltage tap and too low for the higher voltage tap. Either way would hurt that piece of equipment. I know there are auto transformers out there too, with multiple outputs that switch by themselves based on the input voltage, but they're usually only in expensive stuff (and trust me, they can blow up from power surges too; stupid AEP ruined the magnaflux machine at work).
@@FuckGoogle502 modern power supplies turn the input into DC, then switch it at a much higher frequency, feed it to a tiny transformer and after that regulate it to meet the power supply output spec. Many phone and laptop chargers need 100-250 volts and they will do all the work themselves.
Some UA-camrs edit out their attempted fails. Tyler shows it all.
I use this geny about 10 times a year just to power the 3 light bulbs I have in a winter cabin. And it's prefect for that, because it's lightweight and sips fuel when not fully loaded.
Dude buy a 22W UVC panel & a car battery. Wtf...
He might like the smell of 2-stroke@@andrewchristiansen8311
For $200 you could get a 40W solar, inverter, and battery that could prolly power 9 lightbulbs for ~5 hrs a night without draining the stored power beyond 50%. Don't use generators for such a tiny application. And don't use this one for anything. It will burn your cabin down eventually.
Electrician here, the extension cord didn't help you at all. Never run a genny at 100% rated load unless its an emergency. Always run a generator 5 minutes and let its RPM settle before using if its not an inverter generator. You probably burned out the capacitor running 8 amps on it for 3 hours 20 minutes. If you were to buy one of these, get an off the shelf AC-AC voltage regulator for use with electronics.
Pretend that you're explaining this answer to Tommy Chong I'm so stoned right now, so bear with me. With the regulator upgrade and probably like six extra mufflers, could I run a small roku TV and two light bulbs off one of these?
Fuel is colored because the oil is pre mixed into it.
To be honest, the cheapest generator the performance is definitely not sufficient, but I bought a Proyama engine before, which was quite good and the price was also acceptable.I love how well thought out unit it is, and funnel tube screwing directly into the oil drain and fill hole blew me away. The generator runs perfect, and starts very easy. Easy to pull start. Only ran It a few hours but so far so good. Really quiet, just as quiet as a Honda. Also the same size and weight as a Honda eu220i but way more power. This thing starts and runs my Campers 13,500 btu air conditioner without an issue. Barely hear it pull down when the A/C kicks in. It has a built in carbon monoxide shut down. To test this I put it in my shed and closed the door. It shut down in maybe 30 seconds. I brought itnack outside in the fresh air and it fired right back up. No stupid reset procedure.I recommend the proyama genorator.
$140.. Wow the price has liked doubled. Freaking inflation lol
Probably just People discovering it since it was so cheap and they've balanced the supply/demand- make it cheap at first, then when it gets attention slowly jack the price up a few bucks every few weeks. Not really inflation, that's more of a general thing that applies to everything rather than a Company balancing how much folks are willing to pay for a product ;) Inflation is pretty bad these Days though, we've been breaking records in the last couple of Years and I hope it slows down =\
Yeah, mine was less than 100 when not on sale about 8 years ago at harbor freight
Same design, just different colors and branding.
@@volvo09the Gator?
Normally, these engines have 2 to 5 hours break in period where you have to run them richer in oil. Can be as low as 25 to one during break in period.
Mine said 30:1 for break in and if you aren't spitting a little oil out the exhaust you don't have enough. Mine is inverter and it has a lever for low range to save fuel and high range, flat out for running bigger loads. I just bought it because I was curious and wanted to test it as it was only $150.
@robertkubrick3738 That is a good deal. I did see a video from Taryl fixes all recently where he discuses the 2 stroke oils and how they are more forgiving than they used to be.
@@msamour I don't love 2 stroke engines but they do have some advantages.
@robertkubrick3738 Yes, they do! They work better in cold weather for one. All our small boat engines were 2 stroke on HMC ships when I was in the Navy.
Lately, I have been looking at the small Diesel engine for some small applications because they will run on just about anything. I plan on getting half a dozen of these before the government bans fuel in 10 years. The politicians gave gone insane in my country.
@@msamour Hang in there. Good fortune and Merry Christmas.
that generator would be fine for anything that is basically not a smart device. so basically run the chest freezer if there is no power, power tools and so forth.
Tell me you know nothing about eletronics without telling me
@Gamerdu45 don't try and dunk without offering an explanation dude. You are part of the problem
@@Gamerdu45 prove me wrong! or are you saying its fine to use to pawer a smart device?
@@waltdog5791 Alright, I'mma tell you why. So called "smart electronics" use switching power supply which can work on 90v and 140v without much problems and also you said it's better for a chest freezer wich is not true because the compressor inside the freezer is powered by single phase induction motor, rotating speed of this motor is dependent on the frequency (which the generator had problems to stabilize) which can lead to higher power draw and temperatures the low voltage in the motor will translate to higher currents to maintain the same power and higher currents mean more heat which can kill the motor
@@Gamerdu45well put
Cheap wayward generators are fine for all electronics if you just use them to charge batteries chained with well-regulated ac converters to connect sensitive gear to.
Or you could just buy a proper generator with a regulator built in... Not arguing that these little generators can't be useful, but if what you need to run wants nice, clean power just start with what you need instead of jury-rigging it. Your stuff will last a lot longer.
of course wealth can go far
most electrical devices have a +- 10% voltage range built in for listing. 145 is a little above that and you would def see degredation of device life. i wouldnt say it was dangerous, but def not ideal. however given any load it will drop voltage to a more accetable, albeit high, range.
one thers a load it will go down.
I'm sure everyone's noticed Tyler's subtle weightloss over the last few years, but I think I'm seeing this man start to show some gains! Props tyler!
That's a veiled compliment if I've ever heard one. I don't recall Tyler ever mention he had any concern about his weight one way or the other. I'm not quite sure why you feel the need to mention any "gains" Tyler is making since you have absolutely no idea what Tyler's thoughts are on it. Seems to me your compliment was you saying "Tyler needed to lose weight and it's good to see he's losing it." Your comment in itself is rude and a form of body shaming because you feel everyone should meet your standards instead of their own.
Hold the essay, its not that serious. You also do not know Tyler's thoughts so lets not project yours on to the OP. Enjoy Tyler's gains or not. Dont be jealous, hit the gym and you can get some gains too! Then maybe you'll finally get your very own compliment, Cheers!
@@ED-wt8xs wow. In two sentences you managed to body shame me, condescend, and still prove not have the situational awareness to understand why your words are degrading. Sad.
@@krawnjobGod, you're soft.
It was a compliment, unlike _my comment_ which is an insult, neither of which were veiled.
How about you try not getting bent out of shape on behalf of other people?
@@DH-xw6jp What you think is a compliment is only a compliment if the person had a goal and made you aware of it. You know nothing about Tyler and his health and neither do I, but you assume that his losing weight was something he was aspiring to. Maybe he was, and maybe he wasn’t, but what if you said that to someone who had cancer and was losing weight from that, but that person had told nobody about their condition? What if you told someone who was anorexic or bulimic? Now you’re complimenting that person on the ravages of the illness they are dealing with, and you’ve extended on the stereotype that body image is something that others should be up to YOUR standards on. I took your comments about me with a grain of salt because I’m happy with who I am, even if my body isn’t up to your standards. I am successful, want for nothing, and love my life, even if my belly jiggles like a bowl of firm Jell-O if you slap it. Point is, until someone makes you aware that they are working toward a specific goal, you don't know anything and should keep your opinions to yourself.
Spend your money on a generator that can power your whole house, install an inlet on your panel and an interlock kit. I did that a few years ago and it's one of the best investments I've made. I converted mine to natural gas and have unlimited fuel. I did a few videos on it.
I thought about setting my dual fuel gene up for natural gas. I might have to look for your video.
@@mjc4942 You can get the whole carb and regulator setup out of china or on fleabay for less than $50.
This generator is rated at 1200 watts surge momentarily and 1,000 watts continuous which it will do. The heat gun at 1,200 watts is too much of a load for this unit. There is an adjustment under the right side of the tank which allows you to adjust the voltage/hertz. It needs to be turned down to 120-125 volts and 60 hertz.. Easy to do. Chinese QC is lacking. This unit is great for induction loads: motors and small heaters, not for sensitive equipment. I use this for electric hedge clippers far from my house. Tyler, read up on this unit before you critique it. It is a cool little unit if used properly.
Can we get a collab with project farm
Yes
If I remember correctly, most devices in the US (while they don't specify it) should be able to run off of up to 130 or 140v just fine (mainly to compensate for those who happen to live near substations or other electrically upstream areas), though the main thing I would be personally concerned about is the peek-to-peek voltage of the output, since most meters will only show the RMS (or in other words, the average) voltage, and if the peek-to-peek voltage is too high, then it could start to damage electronic devices that are plugged into it.
might burn out MOVs in devices
When he first started pulling on it I said to myself I guarantee you he forgot to turn something on. Lol 😂
I instantly thought fuel tap. Happens to me I forget to turn on the fuel
I would have missed the big yellow decal about the fuel valve, too. It's the excited 10 year old in us, wanting an engine to start as soon as possible. Right on Dude, minor setback.
Hi Tyler, I bought my first generator like this one in 2008, which had a 63cc engine. Over the past few years, the engine size is been increased to 79cc (I think). Yes, this generator is very crude and only useful for running basic, non-sensitive stuff. It is brushless and uses a 15 uF capacitor to energize the field thus, voltage regulation is very poor and the sinewave output is very distorted. The output voltage is determined by the electrical load and the engine speed. I consider the maximum output power to be 800 watts, trying to draw more power causes the output voltage to quickly sag. There is a 10mm nut on a shaft next to the gas shutoff that you can adjust for engine speed. With no load, I suggest adusting for an output voltage of 130 to 135 volts, which provides the best overall output voltage compromise. In the US, induction motors have an input voltage range of 105 to 125 volts. Although, I don't recommend running anything other than a fan or light bulbs. Don't use it with a refrigerator or air conditioner, you will fry both the generator and appliance. The typical US kitchen refrigerator pulls a 20 amp surge when starting. The advantages of this little generator is low cost and light weight.
Yup, my generator was bouncing off the rev limiter with no load and was super annoying so I had to adjust the screw head to get the rpm set correct.
i have a honda ex1000 that i got for a project and the little generator has been really great. charges the batteries to run all the accessories in my car and some heat or ac very well.
I'd be curious how many hours it runs for before it breaks in comparison to other generators. I'd bet with low to medium use through a year you get one maybe two years out of it.
I'd be very curious to see how long it could be made to run
I ran one over 4 days it still works?
I run mine several times a year at deer camp, often all night. I've had it about 7 or more years. When it's warm, it runs an window AC. Also, flood lights to clean deer and to cook by. During the day I charge battery packs to power my phone and laptop. It stays at camp because I'm not worried about it being stolen. It cost me under $100 when I bought it. Worth the money!
I got one for $70 at least a decade ago. I test it twice a year to be sure it's ready if needed. I've got a power inverter that can run a small 'garage' heater in my basement. During an extended power outage in the winter i can run the furnace off of a deep cycle battery and inverter, and recharge that with the DC output of the generator to the battery and get clean power out indefinitely.
"Look how good I am." He says moments after clearly spilling it😂
Didnt want to mix gas he doesn't need, buys premix for 5x the price that he doesn't need
while the mini jenny I own is a different brand name, it looks almost exactly the same as yours, the only difference is mine's 240v (and I suspect a lower wattage due to the difference in voltage)
Output differences (and the "fun" they cause) aside, its a handy piece of equipment, but I did come across one irritating issue:
Once you're finished using it, turn the fuel tap off and let it run dry because if you let it stand for a while, the fuel can turn to varnish in the carb which leads you to the "fun" adventure of stripping, cleaning and rebuilding the carb, which is NOT a fun experience 🤬
Ethanol free gas may help with that.
That should have to be done with any generator using fuel actually.
@@refactorearThis. Not maintaining = Problems. It's always the trivial easy stuff like battery maintainers and old fuel that takes the fun away. Goes from a quick blast around to a parts house run and or waiting on gaskets.
The "engineered" fuel in the can may fare better in that regard. It is supposed to be stable for 2 years, as opposed to the 30-60 days for gas from the gas station. It is still best to be in the habit of doing exactly as you said, just in case, and in case you decide to start mixing your own 2 cycle gas. I run all of my gas engines dry as a matter of course, even if I'll be using it again in a week, because it is a good habit to be in. And I use fuel stabilizer.
Doing a carb job isn't exactly fun, but it also isn't the worst thing in the world. You don't want to be doing it in an emergency situation when your #1 priority is getting backup power going.
@@thesquarerootofnegativei6225 VERY true, I would add "bring back the light after a power cut" LOL
1:24 Tyler: "How much you wanna bet I can get this in here without spilling any of it?" *literally splashes all over the top of the generator and a little on the table* Tyler: "Look how good I am! It's hard being this talented"
I have a feeling that this thing is adjustable. I think you can adjust the throttle response to the output and make it set the output as usable as possible.
When the wall meter reads "666" at 9:03 for a second should explain a lot with this generator lol.
I love how many smart dudes watch Tyler just to see what he will do. Like he is a lab rat🤣😭
Otto von Bismarck - 'Only a fool learns from his own mistakes. The wise man learns from the mistakes of others.'
i like to think i am foolishly wise.
On today’s episode, Tyler displays the importance of invertor generators.
Yes, that should be the title. lol
Putting the killawatt at the downstream end of a long extension cord with a max load on it will use 100 watts just warming the wires. Would have been interested to see the frequency on it with a load. That geny is just as advertised. It will likely run your freezer or you fridge off and on in a power outage. Also it will be light enough for your granny to drag out of the shed and start. Get just what is advertised and you pay for
Yeah, I would only use this on resistive loads like heat guns and electric griddles/kettles. Or little motors like a small sump pump, circle saw, or something like that. But with this small of an output, better to just use battery power tools and pack a few spares with ya.
Lighting at camp site is perfect use
@@leadgindairy3709 Nah, use battery lights or propane. Only a few things piss off a real camper more than all the city-slickers busting out their annoying generators at night.
@@leadgindairy3709just use a kerosene lamp at that point
@FuckGoogle502 f-ck I can't stand generators at a campsite.
A few years ago a party was near our site and they were running a 3600W open frame generator to charge phones and run a TV.
Total overkill, and so much noise.
I'm impressed. I have one similar that is Inverter that puts out single phase 220V 800w. Mine uses 40:1 fuel (30:1 at break in) and if you aren't spitting a little oil out of the exhaust, you probably don't have enough oil in your mix. I forgot to say that mine has a switch on it for low load and high load range.
I think that the acceptable volt range for US electrical plugs is 110 to 125 V. 110 V is most frequently seen in old construction, while only the newest construction has 125 V. All devices are made to run Between these voltages, and most of them can run between 110 and 240 V so that they work in countries that have those higher voltages.
I still find it kinda hard to believe that you guys in the US have between 110 to 125 V whereas us in Europe got 220 V at least thats how it is in my country Romania
The 110 240 thing is only part of the equation, American electronics are designed to run at 60 hrz whereas in other countries it's different.
@@edward_mst6762 here in Belgium the norm is 230, even older buildings have been converted
@@eddiemason4316 Europe is 50hz
@@edward_mst6762 here in America we also have a commercial 208v 3 phase, which is much more efficient then the standard home 240v 1 phase. There is also 480v 3 phase that is relegated to direct wired industrial equipment.
I got one like this from my local home big box store when the regular price was about $100 and the black Friday sale was $80. I used it to charge my deep cycle battery for my trolling motor and used a 2nd hand modified inverter. It meant I could power my boiler circulation pump during power outages. 30 years later it still works and is my backup unit.
Sort of surprised this guy has never seen one of these, they were everywhere when I got mine about 10 years back. (I think mine is the Chicago Electric version.) Little thing's sole purpose in life is to run my sump pump during short power outages and it has done that task without issue for years. If the outage is extended, I'll kick on the big gennie, but for an hour or so, all I care about is the sump pump, and this one is just easy peasy, lol.
That voltage drop will seriously damage a compressor in a refrigerator or freezer. To be fair I have one of these little generators I bought years ago. It is great for hand power tools and job site lighting because it is light and easy to transport. For the price it was a great deal, but not a solution for household appliances during power failures. Incidentally I removed the pull start assembly and start it with a cordless drill, way easier to crank.
I ran the fridge off itb4
About 7 years ago I bought a similar version of this from Harbor Freight. It is rated 700/900. I paid $90 plus tax at the time, using a coupon. I run a window ac unit at deer camp on it. The unit says it's 7 or 7.5 amps. I forget. The generator does bog a bit when the compressor comes on. It runs the ac all night and then some on less than a tank of gas. It's a beast!
There is a non zero chance of Tyler sharpening up that generator nicely.🍿😬
Next video "Can you cut a water bottle in half using Amazon's cheapest generator."
9:29 its okay for most electronics like phone chargers or laptop chargers to run on 130 ish volts because they are made to handle up to 240 volts and they can just simply pull less current at high voltages. 10:17 its also fine for things to run on under 115 volts it will just make them run less efficiently since they have to pull more amps to create about the same wattage
🤣
nvm i'll be damned, looks like my laptop brick can do 240v.
also, generally speaking +/- 10% off 120v is the general rule of thumb.
Generators are typically best run between 50-80% load. That's where you'll get voltage that's less likely to mess up your equipment.
Those generators are workhorse.. But its recommended to set the output frequency as most are way off from the 60hz...there is a set screw to side of the generator you can adjust while using a meter thats capable of reading the frequency of them... I got the pulsar 1200w same machines different "sticker brands" working over 9 years.. Also replace the crappy sparkplug they come with and they last a long time..
I have had mine for about that long too. Change the spark plug to am NGK everytime I store it i turn the gas off and let it run out of fuel. I also run non ethanol fuel.
It’s always a blast watching Tyler while I’m high😂 (either way it’s a blast but I’m having a really good time)
Your neighbors must love you for having a running generator for hours lol😂
naa you dont hear these after you are a few feet away.
Those are great for the price. I bought one years ago at harbor freight for 89.00 on hot buy. Its done a lot of work.
I refuse to believe you were once a diesel mechanic 😂
Sounds about right for the diesel mechanics I’ve met.
he's really not that bright is he
He is pulling in about a million a year with a camera and a table set up in his garage, I would call that genius@@davidbarnes1439
I bet his neighbors loved him for this one.
They brought him a cream pie and then proceeded to smash it in his face 🤣
i hope your doing well Tyler thank you for the awesome content! 😁😁
It is a little expensive for a boat anchor, but it will work...
Your neighbours must love you 😂
9:17 - In the U.S it is lower than that, prolly not good to have it going that high. I am no electrician either, I almost became one though and retained somewhat enough information to get by though! Here in Australia we use 240-250Volt power so a full 2 Litre electric kettle will boil within maybe 60 to 90 seconds. In the U.S it would take ages to boil so you use gas (gas as in the literal natural gas on a stovetop, not gas as in the liquid petroleum that you call gas even thought it is a liquid...)
don't hook a computer up to that
I did the same thing with the gas shut off valve...i pulled like 20 times before i saw it.
Well, the standard for the US is 120 volts, so going over that can be risky as the appliances and such as the US can only handle 120 safely to just under 150 (risky, but generally safe). Places like the UK have 230 volt standard, and their appliances are built to allow 230 volts safely. The top amount of volts in the US you can reach before its very dangerous is 150.
I have the same generator just few years older on a blackout I was able to run a standard refrigerator white two-door on a full tank for 4 hour plus That's n 1 gallon of gas tank size I recommend it it's two stroke you got to mix oil with the gas but it's less of a headache than checking your oil all the time if you're low you can blow the engine.
This is what we come here for. Excellent test. This is basically the same as the Harbor Freight one too.
Speak for yourself. I’m here for the stuff in jars.
had the harbor freight one for years. it still runs strong. these are 100% not rated for 1000 watts. there all built the same but some makers slap that on them. some shady sellers will even slap a 1200 watt sticker on them. there 800 watts max. run it any harder then that and pop will go the generator head.
1.1 metric gallon = 110 metric ounces.
What? Metric gallon? What are you smoking?
Uh, no actually. A metric gallon (aka British Gallon) is 4.54 Liters/160 ounces.
Meanwhile, in the US, a gallon is 3.78 Liters/128 ounces. So the 1.1 gallon capacity isn’t that far off. After all, at the start of the video when he first opened the lid, he said he smelled gas. So it’s highly possible the manufacturer had put some gas in to test it. Not likely, but still a possibility.
@@lloydstone1068 heh, I was trying to make a joke, was not aware that British gallons are referred to as "metric". "Metric gallon" just sounds like an oxymoron XD
I’m more impressed by that heat gun running for over 3 hours a as nd not burning up
Electrical Engineer here
- The behavior is quite unstable but for a super cheap generator it is the (Very) least acceptable.
Formally, from the standard point of view of a supply of AC 120V (Single-phase) and 127V (Single-phase with a three-phase system supply), the Operating Margins are +/-10% [I know that some countries are less tolerant of something like 5%] but...
For 120V a range of 108-132V is expected and for 127V 114-139.7
That extra Voltage of 140V is somewhat high but relatively tolerable for certain Mainly Resistive loads such as Incandescent Bulbs, Heaters.
BUT WHAT IS WORRYING IS THE FREQUENCY DIFFERENCE (The tolerance here is strict, deviating +1Hz is harmful). Because this desynchrony affects the behavior of the Inductors such as motors and transformers. (Experiencing an increase in the output voltage and in the case of equipment that uses the AC mains signal as clock frequency, they will advance or lag depending on the case) *In fact, it is very likely that the frequency lag could be the cause of the output surge voltage (this since the voltage we measure is actually an RMS measurement, or effective value dependent on the wave shape, frequency and amplitude)*
-But also the frequency offset could be a consequence of empty load operation. so we would need more frequency measurements to conclude formally.
-It is completely normal for the voltage at No Load. be higher. (even with batteries this happens, just like in a car, the battery voltage is not the same at idle as during acceleration and when off).
Regarding the behavior under load, this is not very good, but it suggests that more than a problem with the generator, it is in the acceleration regulator, which only makes 2 steps between low load and heavy load, it could be worth trying to use the accelerator manually to compensate for the variation between the deficit and excess in specific loads. But Otherwise, Adding an AC Voltage Regulator to the output would help a little (In fact, a ferroresonant AC regulator would be perfect for this application). Although at the expense of losing capacity due to loss of power factor and transformer heat.
In summary In a scenario, in an emergency or where you are looking to have an electrical energy supply that consists of a few incandescent light bulbs and an electric grill to cook or heat water for 3 hours with less than 1 gallon of gasoline, IT IS PASSABLE. If you have a delicate load or it will be used frequently, you definitely need a better option.
110-140 is pretty normal for a genny like this, and fine for all but the most sensitive eletronics. Almost everything today has a switching PSU that takes whatever up to 240. I've seen ranges from as low as 80vAC to 260vAC. Turns the timings down a bit (if you can) and it should also drop the voltage.
It also helps when you don't overload it.
I bought one from HarborFreight Tools years ago,... I gave it to my Stepson but it was a Tank lol,... Always powered MORE than it was rated for.
"Why is this fuel pink?"
It's strawberry flavour.
I really love the Tshirt man, but you gotta get busy and finally fix that design, so it doesn't look like "C void warranties", so I can buy one.
Yikes. I am going to go hug my Honda.
Tyler trying to explain AVR without mentioning is quite funny actually.
yeah, I bought one of these many years ago. Even believe it's the same brand, but one from likely 9 or 10 years ago. I believe it's rated 1200 max, 1,000 continuous. I basically bought it because at the time I used all corded lawn tools.Battery technology was not the same then, and quarter tools were definitely superior. With the exception of gas tools, but I hate cleaning carburetors. This was my solution, as I could run any single corded lawn tool off of it with ease. This way I was highly portable throughout the yard. And only one carb to clean, not 7!
...Ive since gone w brushless/battery tools. But this thing was great for a while
I have the pulsar version of this generator, but mine is labeled for 75cc, with two outlets, a voltage light, and a charge port simular to yours
I vouch to say it has about 50+ hours run time and it has been through a few minor repairs such as new start string and related parts, spark plug, air filter upgrade, ignition coil, and carb cleaning, and fuel tank.
It's about 3 years old. It hasn't given up yet and I am kinda attached to it since it helped me and my mother go through some tough times after losing power a couple of days after a storm since this one was the first I bought I never let it get wet as with any generator I own now I been running lucas 2 cycle oil the whole time I have owned it one thing I do is remove all loads and then turn off the fuel and let the machine starve of fuel
I have a larger geenerac now and I use this one for camping or tailgating and has always started
These little machines are resilient when taken care of
I love how there’s no crazy intro it’s jsut a nice handclap , then at the end we get to party to the outro , it’s like a reward
The low & high voltage is due to the cheapness of the boost circuitry in the inverter. Expensive inverter generators have what you can think of as "gears" like in a car or bike. Cheap ones are like "direct drive" which are always a compromise at both the low and high end.
I got the same one at harbor freight for $99. I used it for power tools before I got all my 20v stuff.
this little guy is actually nice to have, i have one like it for smaller tasks, and most electronics have protection circuitry that would prevent damage
Yes, overvoltage and undervoltage will both kill your devices.
The reason is that undervoltage will cause higher current draws due to the power trying to be constant.
And higher voltage will break dielectrics in your devices and potential barriers in transistors.
A generator is just one of those things I really wouldn't want to cheap out on.
Sad to not see anybody talking about 6:48 at all. "If it catches on fire, it catches on fire. It is what it is."
Lol
Depends on your usecase. Actually its not really bad for modern devices with a switch mode power supply (like an phonecharger, laptop, ...), they are rated from 80V up to 270V and take nearly any frequency, thats because they rectify the AC at first to DC
Thats a Harbor Freight 900w Storm Cat. I've had one for years. Paid 98 bucks for it. I've only had to replaced the pull string and carburetor on it, both together were under 25 bucks. It's able to run a small heater and lights in a camper all night for 8 hours! Its very efficient and portable. Great design with lots of aftermarket parts online. Just bring your 2stroke oil.
I've just bought a similar 230VAC generator for €85 here in NL at a small trader.
Model 950, should be a 2HP engine and 1000W continuesly via a brushless generator and 12V according to the specs.
No 12VDC output like yours, hole is there!
And only a meager 450 Watts at 2 Amp's, 20 Ohm winding resistance and heats up quickly.
I do the measurements in a similar way.
And the generator itself looks a bit smaller then yours, that's almost sticking outside the fuel tank. Mine has 1,5 cm spacers between the tank and the engine/generator combo on both sides, so a bigger one can fit underneath.
Also on the plate with the Euro socket and lousy voltmeter is a 12VDC plug, not connected, and an AC breaker, also not connected!
Well, gonna use it just as you said, for non critical applications and charging batteries via a good charger!
I also have a perfect running Robin LG071 with Subaru engine, and a Honda copy 700W inverter I'm tinkering with 😉
Got a little 2-stroke Chicago generator off craigslist for $20. It was leaking fuel bad with the petcock open so I hauled it home, pulled the carb bowl off and found that the float was stuck. Easy fix, and now I have a little generator for emergencies. My only complaint is how loud it is.
Electrical engineer here, normal voltage range in the US (ANSI range A) is 114-126V. That’s what you should expect your utility to deliver the majority of the time. Though you can push it to range B (110-127v) and still expect most things to work. 140v is uh, pretty bad.
Exactly. I always aim for 115 - 125. 110 - 130 is okish, even expected from a generator. 100 - 140 I wouldn't use.
Had the same one from Harbor freight. Absolutely loved it.