Common Automotive Electrical Connections | DIY
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- Опубліковано 11 лип 2024
- Are you struggling to make ends meet… in your electrical system? Stripping and connecting wires can be messy and confusing, but this week Hagerty’s Matt Lewis shows you how to do it quickly and neatly. Using an auto-stripper and a crimper provides a tidy way to join two wires with both barrel and bullet connectors, and Matt explains where to employ each. For areas that require a stronger connection, he demonstrates how to fuse the wires with a soldering iron. Learn to safely connect your switches and ignition so you can get back on the road in no time.
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Simple and strait to the point, this was so helpful.
Everyone seems to be mad for the content, but im just 19 and im trying to learn as much as I can. This video was really helpful for me :) thank you
Benas Jasas exactly me also
Great video guys! Thank you
I know this is an old video but found it super helpful thank you hagerty your channel is awesome!!
Love these DIY videos. It might be worth mentioning the two different ways to crimp connectors using the crimpers. There are a "pin/cup" and a "cup/cup" crimping area on the crimpers. Some crimpers have non-insulated and insulated labels on the tool. You appear to be using the "pin/cup" slot for insulated connectors and you run the risk of puncturing the insulation and should be used for non-insulated connectors and the "cup/cup" slot for the insulated ones you show in the video. Hope that helps.
Such a good video! THANKS!
Thank you this helped me do a quality job wiring my nitrous window switch which required quite a bit of wiring which I hadn't done before. Great video!
Thanks for this awesome video! 👍
Great refresher on soldering , well done. Just what I was looking for. Hagerty is great for us Collectors , Thank You
Happy to help! Thanks for watching.
An excellent post, thank you for sharing.
Love these DIY videos. Great job presenting the basics for each topic. Very enjoyable and informative.
Awesome video as always
Thanks for your helpful videos. Greetings from Siberia,Russia.Good Luck!
Excellent and detailed explanation 👌
Helpful video Thank you
Helpful video...👍
Good video thanks!
Very useful. Thanks
helpful and well presented
Thank you. Great Video.Thumbs Up
Richard - Thank you for watching and being a fan!
Thanks very useful
Thank you!
Thnxs so much you rock🤘
if you live in winter salt areas, use shrink connectors with hot glue in them
nice tip!
Although I don’t do it in my electronics shop class in the early 70s we were taught to use a bit of emry cloth on the bare wire before soldering or add a connection.
Very informative!
Small note, dont twist the strands when crimping. Best crimp quality is met when the strands can stack perfectly. When twisting you create air gaps between the strands.
Thank you so much
Very well explained and shown. Just a little recommendation: A Western Union Connectiion (sometimes called Bell Connection) is a way better way to solder two wires. At the shown twist-method the wires route into the same direction. One wire has to be bend 180 degrees. The copper might become brittle at this point, when it gets older.
Three advantages of a Western Union Connection:
1) The copper is only twisted, but not (over-)bend.
2) Even the twisted wires are able to take some pulling (before soldering).
3) The connection is thinner, because the insulated material never runs parallely to the soldered wire.
Matt talked about a following soldering video. This might be a good chance to show the differences and advantages.
Cheers, TOBi 👋😉
agreed, stronger and thinner if you do it right
I just came trough this channel and i'm already loving it.
I also liked your watch :D lol, what kind of watch is it?
Greetings from Poland 😉🇵🇱
This is a great video thanks for this. What connector would you use under bonnet/hood of a vehicle which has to stand higher temperatures?
Greeting from egypt🙋🇪🇬
The shrink tube should be placed on one of the wires before connecting because you generally can't do it afterwards.
Awesome
Can I ask which website of the kit you bought from the video website. Thanks
Are the butt crimp connectors suitable for wiring up a brake controller?
Is it possible to make a tight connection by using the hook terminal in the vibration area of vehicle
Not to split hairs but the jacket around the wire conductor isn't shielding, it's insulation. Other than that this is a good tutorial for novices. If you're just starting out with soldering make sure you buy the 60/40 tin/lead rosin core solder mentioned in this video, not lead-free solder that you'll also find on the shelves. You might think the lead-free solder is the better "eco" choice but 60/40 solder is easier to work with and makes for a more durable connection.
In finland you can't even get tin that has lead
Well done demonstration. 😎
• Cheers from The Detroit & Mackinac Railway 🚂
For the man who has everything - a dedicated heat shrink fusion gun!
For automotive apllication soldering is not the best way of connecting two wires. Especially under the hood or in other places where heat can be an issue. Crimping is much more safer and bullet proof. You can solder inside of the car, on stereo components and such stuff. I don't say it can't be done but crimping is much more safer and practical.
Would using the butt crimp connectors be suitable for wiring up a brake controller?
Can we get link to the tools ? Or names
The but connector is apparently best to last longer where the wires will vibrate alot. Vs soldering that might come loose over time
always put your shrink tube on one of the wires before you solder. you're almost always soldering two wires already connected to other things, and forgetting to put it on there before you complete the solder is just an annoying rookie mistake to make :)
Isolation tape can help but you will have a great gymnastics for your fingers 😂
Just apply heatshrink to the normal barrel connectors
So why do people always say that soldering should never ever be done on automotive wiring? I read that all the time.
Insulation and shielding are two completely different things.
"Splice Wire to NASA Standards" you will appreciate the simplicity 🤓
Portasol 125 pro solder
I would'nt suggest using the twist splice. My grandpa taught me the way the Western-Union splice and solder wires. Also called the NASA splice.
Wire connection using the example at 9:00 is not recommended. It's not strong and will bulge.
a lineman splice or butt splice would be stronger than a pigtail splice and take up less space.
Solder can and does crack, hence why airplane electrics are all crimped.
Also invest in a set of ratchet crimpers, besr 20-25 I ever spent, they give you a far more controlled and consistent crimp and are easier on your hands.
Glue heatshrink is worth the investment, glue stops all moisture and you just heat the glue shrink till its shrunk and the glue starts bubbling out of the end
If you want crimp correctly, don't twist the wires.
The "shielding" he speaks of, is SHEATHING.. Its a layer of insulation. Shielding is a foil or wire braid that goes around sheathing, with another layer of sheathing over that... Which is a SHIELDED wire.when talking about wiring, its SUUUPER easy for people to accidentally mix up these words (and others). No offense at all to the poster, but he seemed to use the word "shielding" only, which peads me to think, thats just what he calls sheathing. They arent the same! (For u folks out there, trying to learn about shielding or shielded wire). Again though, VERY common mistake in wording
Lol and i am picking on him for this part (just for fun! I have to haha! Not trying to be mean.. just, thought it was kinda funny!)... About his wire strippers... "It give u a very accurate means of where u strip the wire, depending on where u place the wire" IM SORRY! 😂 even a knife will strip a wire, depending on where u place it, to strip a wire... The thing that actually bugs me about what he showed, is that he had an automatically adjusting stripper, but is does NOT have a stop! If u want ACCURATE stripping legnth (throughout each and every wire u strip), get some self adjusting strippers that HAVE a wire stop!
...if all else fails, ur teeth will accurately strip a wire, wherever u place ur teeth on a wire, for stripping
Took years to discover the split in the connectors
does the heat shrink come in rolls of different sizes? reason i ask is i'm in the middle of doing a complete rewire on my '75 cj-5 and it would seem easier to buy it by the roll in different sizes instead of trying to keep up with all those small packages of different size heat shrink tubes.
everett thornton you can get a little box of it like the one he had with all the connectors in it at hardware store. has different colors and sizes
I keep my heat shrink in a fishing tackle box to keep it organized and all in one spot
thanks for your input.i'll take it into consideration.very much appreciated.
thanks for your comment.what he is useing on this video is what i'm useing now.i just thought it would save me a little time by not having to stock up on limited containers of these when i could have a roll of different sizes on hand.just trying to save myself some time back and forth to the auto parts store and to save on gas.
great idea man.i have three or four that i use whenever i have a chance to actually go fishing.i just might emty one and take your advice.much appreciated,thanks.
After years of building custom scientific diagnostic machines, please, ONLY use solder or braising to splice wires in a car. Crimp plus shrink works mostly. Mostly, but after years we learned the hard way that crimp is just not durable enough.
Will the solder not come loose over time where there is high vibration and heat in the engine bay ?
@@rizaanjappie sure anything is possible. We often worked in conditions exceeding typical engine bay temp with many instruments clustered together in a confined space. Soldered joints always worked best.
Solder melts in the 400-700 F range.
200F is rarely found in an engine bay, not nearly enough to affect solder. Plus we always shrinked over the solder, which probably minimizes vibration
@@rizaanjappie sure anything is possible. We often worked in conditions exceeding typical engine bay temp with many instruments clustered together in a confined space. Soldered joints always worked best.
Solder melts in the 400-700 F range.
200F is rarely found in an engine bay, not nearly enough to affect solder. Plus we always shrinked over the solder, which probably minimizes vibration
@@lotklear1379 OK thanks man. I'll go the solder route then to extend the wiring for a maf sensor. The soldering has to be spot on as it affects air fuel ratios.
В клеммочку с торца еще немножко литольчику сунуть.. чтоб не отгнил в месте зажима.. а так такие зажими редко пользую.. не надежные они. Скрутка, спайка и термоусадка наше все.
A
на Харламова похож!
The poster better go back to school. I use uninsulated crimp butt connectors, solder if needed and then shrink sleeve.
Yea you don't want any extra connections to be fair.
You are removing insulation, not shielding. Shielding has a rather different meaning in the electrical world and is nothing like insulation.
Greetings from your mom. 🙋
S O L D E R, solder. An American "sauder" 🤔
I love wire nuts and electrical tape...they do the job quickly and are easily removed if you don't need it anymore.
As someone who designs automotive electrical connection systems ... I would strongly recommend NOT watching this video.
This method is so much better than Scotch Lock (IDP) connections most morons use.
I was thinking much the same. When I heard insulation called shielding, I pretty much knew the presenter didn’t have much of a clue.
never ever use a butt connector. just don't be lazy. do it right so it lasts. always solder connections.
You guys must be struggling for content. Are you kidding me
If you don't like it just don't watch. No need to be negative towards a helpful diy video for beginners.
Todd Bearden speak for yourself and the 6 other idiots