2003-2005+ Range Rover / BMW / ZF Transmission Oil Cooler Quick Disconnect Line O-Ring Replacement
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- Опубліковано 3 лют 2020
- In this video, I cover the BMW/ZF transmission cooler line quick disconnect ports on an oil cooler from a 2004 Range Rover HSE 4.4. While the lines and cooler shown are from that specific L322, this information should generally apply to numerous other manufacturers and models.
If your cooler lines' are leaking from the quick disconnects, you can change the two O-rings on each line (4 total per vehicle) and get them back in service as good as new!
Transmission oil cooler: Land Rover part #: PFD000020; BMW Part #: 17207500754; Behr/Hella Manufacturer part #: 376756781
Transmission and power steering cooler lines disconnect tool: CTA 3466
LINK: www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-3466...
Lisle Angled Disconnect Tool: 39400
LINK: www.amazon.com/Lisle-39400-An...
Land Rover / BMW Part # for the O-Rings on the Coolant ports of the cooler:
Land Rover Part# PYX000070; BMW Part #: 17101439140 (same thing)*
*You can't really go with generic O-rings for the coolant ports, since the O-rings from BMW are a specific shape that helps seal the coolant ports in a plastic round tunnel that the ports mate with. - Авто та транспорт
OMGosh I have reviewed many videos for this job and NONE have been as good as this onel This one is SPOT ON. Thank you, your are AWESOME, you saved me a heap of money cause my repairsnith mechanic would only do if I replaced the lines (100,s iof$$), Thanks again & keep it up, your amazing!!
What a nice comment, thanks for watching, glad it helped you. Subscribe to me, I have more Rover content planned!
I second the Valvoline Max Life. It's worked well for me for 400k! and you're right in the change interval of 30k (it's what I have done). On the other hand, I also get differing opinions from techs who stick to the Lifeguard fluid. Nice Job in describing this procedures and alternatives on this job. You don't always have to lose your shirt to do these jobs.
I don't normally comment, but this video is excellent!
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On the crimp fitting. There is a tool used for AC lines. That tool is used to crimp oil, transmission and engine oil cooler lines.
You can get the crimp ends at hydraulic line shops. I'm sure they can actually build you an awesome oil cooler lines with better quality hoses or braided hoses.
Very nice video. Very informative. You should do a video installing an aftermarket cooler
Awesome video and information 👍🏼
Thank you, I like your explanation.
thanks for a well documented video, I have the same problem with my BMW and eventually was able to source the O-rings, they arrive tomorrow 13/11/2020, I thought there was only one O-ring to each fitting, luckily I ordered four O-rings thinking I might damage one and would have a back up hahahaha, I was astounded to watch this video and discover that each fitting has two rings and how easy it was going to be to remove the rings, thank you ever so much, kind regards Matt in Spain
can you tell me where you got the orings from and what size I measured and the old orings are 2.8mm X19mm
can you tell us where did you buy it? size??
Where were you able to source the o-rings
@@bobolson3085 Ihad problems sourcing the correct size of rings and ended up cutting the old connections off and forcing the rubber tube onto the metal tube and double hose clips, been on for around 8/9 months and works fine with no leaks or blow off,s
Can you post a link where you bought the o-rings please. Thanks
Helped me immensely. Thank you so much for posting this up. Great info and well presented...
Wow very good explend to us looks easy how to work l have work to do it tomorrow thanks for your time Arellano appreciate 🎉
Can you a video showing how you put the o-rings back. Its doesn’t seem like its an easy one. I would greatly appreciate that video
I can imagine that oil to water cooler doing a terrific job on my Massey 135 diesel tractor
Thank u
The coolant side o-rings are 14.5x2.5mm, 2 pcs.
14.5mm ID
Terbaik bosku 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
hi. what about the o rings for the the oil transmission port? what are the size or a generical number we can buy? thanks
great video..searched all over to find what is inside these quick lock ends..I went to a salvage yard here in Bangkok and got just the quick lock and then went into seeing what was inside ..took notes on how you went about getting out the o'rings ..I went about it differently ..remove the plastic clip then with 2picks on the metal band tabs lifted 2 out then rotated and the click lock assy came out ..then because the o'rings are held in with a plastic spacer washer I inserted a small blind bearing puller and out came the spacer followed by o'ring then plastic washer then o'ring and plastic washer ..to replace o'rings I used an electric conduit that is 19+mm about 100mm long ..fitted o'rings and plastic washers perfectly square then the plastic spacer washer to snug up the o'rings the quick lock assy and all good to go ..hope this helps ..by the way hope this helps others ..here a power steering return hose for E46 BMW is over $300 just to pay for leaky o'rings
How much ATF liquid leaks out when the hoses are disconnected? Does all the fluid leak out or just a few ounces?
If those Teflon rings went bad would that cause a leak? The green on was cracked , and what are the dimensions in order to replace the clear and green rings
can you drain the fluid and refil "flush" via these two pipes diconected from the cooler ,is it safe to do it that way?
Question: any idea on what the problem is when RECONNECTING THE LINE THAT WONT LATCH? I replaced it an OGM cooler but one of the lines won’t reconnect… it’s seems like it’s like the latching part is not reachable when pushing in the line. Any suggestions????
Thats good
How i can connect the other side?
I try using the bmw tool but it completely crumble in pieces and is same of the quick release is stock. I can't remove the other plastic inside!!!! What can I do At this point?
Thanks for the video, is there a lot of coolant will drop off when i replace the new cooler?
Omg… just found your video accidentally. I have these for my 2001 disco 2 and I had no idea these had the 2 o rings inside. I was getting ready to bypass mine as it leaks horribly and I cut the Swedge out and used worm clamps and it still leaked. I may try and salvage it after all.
Can I have the info on the cooler part. The product number as mine is leaking coolant
For some reason it keeps popping off from my bmw z4 2.5 does anyone know why?
there is also in 4th generation THS too seen in my p610 the absorbed heat of atf fluid for stator and final reduction gear cooling because of no hydrolic system, no clutches, no belt, or nothing it only simple stators, rotors, parking pawn and the fix one ratio of reduction gears set and also it have only real gear that is a park gear to engage the parking pawn and another R N D B were controlled by VCU used signeling not a real transmission like any automatic transmission
And can you do a video how to remove the mounting bracket for the cooler
I would love to see a video on that too...
Thanks for making this very informative video.
I have been having a problem with my gearbox when it gets too hot and goes into the dreaded cooling mode. I don’t get a high temp message but the box downshifts and stays in 2nd or 3rd gear until I stop and let it cool.
I’ve already replaced the engine radiator, water pump and installed the 80C t-stat kit from Abbes performance. (only problem with that mod is in the winter I can get a low engine temp code thrown P0128)
Now my engine runs a lot cooler but my gearbox still has the temperature problem so now I’m going to replace the transmission cooler.
Did you have to drain down your transmission fluid level some before disconnecting the hoses?
You don't have to drain the transmission fluid level from the pan at all, just remove the lines, cooler and replace the cooler. When you start the car, the transmission oil pump will circulate the ATF into the new cooler and then you just follow the procedure to top off the transmission fluid. FYI: you must add ATF to a running car (in park) with the transmission between 30 and 40 degrees C. Any more or less and you'll get it wrong. Also, get an extremely large fluid transfer syringe to do it. And you'll need a breaker bar with an allen key socket on there to loosen the fill plug. Also, if you raise your air suspension when you get under the car, make sure you keep at least 1 door open to keep the air suspension from lowering.
Hello, I have the same problem! Did you change the radiator of the gearbox, and did it improve?
What about disconnecting the lines from the transmission? I have a leak on 2012 Range Rover SC where one of the diff bolts rubbed a pin hole in one of my lines. FML! Lol. So instead of replacing the whole thing I was going to try JB Weld the hole. What are your thoughts on this ?
JB weld is very strong and could definitely patch a pinhole on a line, just be careful not to let any JB weld actually enter the transmission fluid. That would be disastrous! To disconnect the pipe ends of these lines from the transmission you just use a regular metric socket (forgot the size) and open. You will want to purchase the correct copper or aluminum crush washers to replace (2 per line) and torque the banjo bolt back to the right spec. The LR dealer can order the right crush washers. 2 of one size for 1 line, and 2 of another size for the other line.
Hi. Thank you for your video. I have 55,000 miles runs 2003 L322 4.4L with "HDC Inactive" and "Transmission Overheat" message on dash today. Symptoms were - a)Not changing higher gear at high speed. b)Hesitate speed up when stop and go - before the message. May I ask what symptom or message brought you to repair oil cooler O-ring?
Thanks for your message, Andy. One of the primary causes for a 'transmission overheat' message, in addition to a potential blockage in your transmission cooler, is sediment build-up in your engine cooling radiator, causing decreased performance. The only real way to determine if this is the case is to remove the radiator, flush it out with water and see how much gunk comes out. If you have a way to measure the flow then that would help, but for the relatively low cost for a new radiator (around $200 for an OEM Behr unit), it's just worth it, in my opinion, to replace it. The engine computer itself doesn't necessarily detect it as a fault condition but the transmission, which is always slightly slower to respond to temperature, does. I would highly recommend replacing not only the transmission oil cooler, transmission oil cooler thermostat, but the engine radiator, water pump, and possibly the engine cooling thermostat as well. These cars also come stock with a 108 degree Celsius engine thermostat which is insanely hot! There is a mod out there to replace it with a custom 80 degree celsius thermostat which I am looking into doing. Either way, since you've had an overheat condition, you must change your transmission fluid and filter now!
80 degree engine thermostat mod: abbes-performance.com/bmw-land-rover-lower-temperature-thermostat-kits/1-80c-thermostat-kit-for-bmw-e39-540i-e38-740i-x5-z8-e52-m62-range-rover-44-reduce-engine-temperature.html
On my car, the previous owner had that same message appear, and took it to a transmission shop. They quoted him about $2000 for a rebuild and removed the transmission, replaced some parts, and reinstalled it. However, they did not change the transmission cooler. Instead, the previous owner purchased the very aftermarket transmission cooler in the video and included it in a box of parts with the car when we purchased it. I suspect that he also used incorrect tools to try to remove the cooler lines and broke the plastic clips! When we purchased the car, we had to do a full engine timing chain and VANOS service, and also replaced every component on the accessory belt system and the entire engine cooling system (radiator, water pump, aluminum pulley upgrade, transmission thermostat, engine thermostat, etc.)
Also, I recommend the iLand tool from Atlantic British (roverparts.com), it's a bluetooth scan tool specific to Rovers that lets you interrogate all the data that any ECU in the car produces. You can monitor the transmission fluid temperature, function, and operational parameters in real time as you drive and read and clear all codes too. It was instrumental in diagnosing our transmission cooling issues.
@@mjrgroup Hey MJR. Your feedback was really helped to start my rebuilt project. Regarding 80 degree thermostat, I found that interesting idea from Samcrac channel ( ua-cam.com/video/WRP10YxWuVk/v-deo.html ) which makes some wholes to coolant passing through. What do you think this option? We probably reduce engine temperature with simple drilling.
My god thank you so much. I’ve done everything I can to try and get these lines off and can’t do it. I need those tools!! Anywhere to get them quickly? I need to do this job in 2 days before I try to drive it 500 miles home...
Hi, sorry I didn't see your message before your journey. I bought them both off Amazon, but the fuel line disconnect tools should be available at any auto parts store.
Those quick disconnects are actually pretty generic and can be purchased by themselves in a variety of sizes. Lots of car manufacturers have used them for decades. I have them on my '85 Ford F250 on the fuel tank connections.
I'm trying to find some now to replace mine. I'm thinking about replacing the ends and crimp them too.
Hi!
On a North American LR4 that has the same transmission fluid cooler, can you please tell me which side does the hot fluid gets in to the cooler? The more crooked side or the other?
Thank you!!
On the Disco 2. Hot oil comes in from the drivers side cooler inlet
I can’t get my cooler to stay in the bracket the middle where the clip goes in isn’t all the way inside the hole
My clip is also removed
Any luck ?
Need to no how to take off and on 2004 oil cooler braket
You are referring to an O-ring 17101439140 but this O-ring in the Real OEM BMW catalog has the dimensions 16.5X4.8X23 and is mounted 2 pieces fixed to the other 2 holes on the other side of the heat exchanger. Below you talk about the dimensions 13x3x19, which one is the right one? Thanks and sorry I hope you don't mind.
i think the part number is for the coolant side, not the oil transmission size, anyway if you di it can yoiu tell us what size you use on the oil side?? thank you
@@roxycamilo Yes, the part number is for the coolant side. I don't find correct dimension for O-ring used on the oil transmission. I try with 13x3x19 but it had losses also. I think I have the hit pipe.
@@viorelionescu196what u mean losses did u try that size and still leaked ?
Trans mission oilcooler bmwx3 2006can Joshua me. To remove
What was the correct size O-Ring that worked please 👍
I ended up using M3x13 O-Ring, 19mm OD, 13mm ID, 3mm thick, however 3mm is really way to thick and the lines were very difficult to get back on. But I justify using them, because they are so tight that they will never leak! I would recommend you find the same dimesion O-ring but find something slightly less thick than 3mm, like maybe 2.75mm if they make it. Amazon link here: www.amazon.com/M3x13-Viton-Ring-Shore-Durometer/dp/B005RUSYMY/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=M3x13+O-Ring%2C+19mm+OD%2C+13mm+ID%2C+3mm+thick&qid=1597370248&sr=8-2
@@mjrgroup I found these,,,,Round Medium Hard Buna N O-Ring, 13.0mm I.D., 19mmO.D.
Jose Nunez yup those will work. Just be advised it is hard to push them on but once you do get them on they will never leak!
@@mjrgroup Thank you so much for the video.
@@mjrgroup I put them on,, Sadly these didnt work for me,,, It still leaked as if the o rings were old, Those the hardeness have an effect I used 70a
THANKS,, For the INFO!!!! B,,C.....
Please help me 🙂🎈🌹
Makes zero since to me!!! You also have a hard green ring and a clear ring in there so do they go on each side or what
There’s nothing in my video that made any “sense” to you? This is free advice and a look at something most DIYers don’t understand. So take it or leave it. But just for you, maybe this will help: the green and clear rings are most likely teflon spacer rings and together with the o-rings form a "seal stack." The way I demonstrated replacing the o-rings is the easiest least-risk method for doing so without damaging or losing the positioning of the teflon spacer rings. Alternatively, you can pop out the steel spring clip piece and remove the entire seal stack and insert new o-rings and the spacer rings easily and then snap the steel spring clip back in. IIRC, the order is clear ring, o-ring, green ring, o-ring, steel spring clip assembly. Hope it helps. Before removing the o-rings check the positioning and just ensure you replace the o-ring in the correct place.