Great timing! I just picked up a 700 from recon to go along with my 500. Still need to get a couple domino/tenon kits for the 700 but my wallet needs to recover a bit before I do. Very informational video. Thanks Guys!
Tempted to get it even though I don’t have the need… yet 😂 I definitely learned the use cases the XL would be advantageous and the added benefits such as the depth stops for plunging. Thanks Sedge!
Brilliant video gentlemen!! I was using my DF 500 a few days ago, LOVING the precision and the system (used it in conjunction with the KV connectors and the LR-32) and I was inspired to make a t-shirt that says "...I would rather be plunging my Domino ". ( I don't know how to make t-shirts, but know people who do). 😊
I have both, I used the 700 making my first door out of solid walnut. I find I use the 500 10 to 1 for other projects. But, after using the Domino it's my go to machine rather than spend a lot of time making solid mortise and tenon joints.
Glad you asked ... I have never wanted to mess with any adaptors .. the shafts of the cutters of the DF500 domino bits have a thinner shaft to combine with the torque of the Df700...
Sedge...Why doesn't Festool make the Domino 500 with the reference pins like with the 700? I always have to install the side stop when I need 20mm reference while you show that the 700 has pins at the 20, 37, & 50mm position. Thanks for all your videos. I really enjoy them.
Gary the earliest models of the DF500 had pins at 37mm...They changed because the pins were crushing the long points of miters , sometimes getting in the way when doing narrower stock, and also people weren't dry-fitting and they were getting glue on the pins when trying to fix mortising mistakes and the pins were seizing up so they went to the flap style , no crushing and can be locked back out of the way ...... I hope this helps ....
Sedge, I have really loved your domino videos. They have helped me use them with confidence and I reach for them more often for joinery. I am actually thinking about how I can modify a plan to use the domino vs. other joinery techniques. One question that I have that I think would be a great video is a demonstration of glueing up the domino joints. I am still not sure if I am using enough glue or too much, do I put a little more glue into the wider mortices, etc. I also liked your trick using a block plane to shave the edges off a tenon for dry fitting. I do not have a block plane so I use a sanding block to take that nib off the edges. Anyways, keep up the great content! Love them all.
You sure can ... don't use the gauge block and use the scale set to 9mm if you use 18mm ply ..or use the gauge block set to 16mm in the window and use a 1mm shim stock...need to do a video on this ..THANKS !!
@@sedgetool Thanks, but I meant the registration with the base that's 10mm on the DF500 against a mid panel that's clamped down. I'm having difficulty figuring out a way to do it with the DF700's 15mm.
Great information, but I'm bummed. Santa did not bring me a DF500 for Christmas this year (mostly cabinets). Looking forward to my Birthday, or a project for my wife here I need it. The husband carpenter rule: We will do no project, unless it requires a new tool 🤣🤣🙃
Not covered, use of the standard and wide slots on the 700 as compared to the 500. Why three settings on the 500 and 2 on the 700? Great refresher. Thank you.
Great info, appreciate the details. The half of 32 is exactly why mm or inches is an irrelevant argument. If the measurement isn’t relative I always check it with my CM Pro calculator. I’ve been know to mess up half of 15mm LOL.
I’m still not clear when the 700 is NOT needed. Obviously great for doors, but what about tables and chairs? I’m guessing the size makes the difference, but I’m not sure what size.
Great comparison! If I wasn't going to use a Domino a lot (just as a hobbyist), is there anything a Domino 500 can do that a Domino 700 & Seneca adaptor cannot? In other words, does the size of the 700 make something impossible or impractical?
The DF700 to me is way too bulky to use on cabinetry .... and small pieces..... I always recommend the DF500 for the majority of work...... I have always stayed away from adaptors ....
To the commenter below: It’s technically not end grain to end grain on a mitered joint over 30 degree in the case of a scarf joint mitered or a 45 degree cut. I would still try to put a spline in if strength and integrity is important. Also different species absorb the glue at different rates. Cedar vs. Doug Fir (SPF) and also the cut of wood flat sawn or vertical grain. So I find myself having to reapply the glue 3x so it’s not a dry fitted joint. I always try to throw in at least 2 dominoes on a 2x4 material for example if I’m butting material or mitering a joint, that way as Sedge explained you get greater and added glue surface on the long grain, it makes a very strong won’t fail joint for board stretching. I cut three times and it’s still too short! I would recommend getting the mahogany (sapelle) 5x30 dominoes for any exterior work. I think the domino does well to replace a biscuit and provides strength, but the biscuit gives you a little wiggle room. I usually use the tight fitting on the ends and I go a little looser inside the material. But you can make one side on the middle loose setting as opposed to both. If you don’t own a DF-700 you can stack the dominoes to get you by in a pinch, but then you are increasing the difficulty for alignment. There’s always a standard mortise and tenon, but the DF-700 makes the joint kids play. I’ve created my own looser joint (tighter than the middle setting) by just sliding the centerline of the domino over slightly on my reference center marks on my lumber material on the df-500 and replunging, if I want to just add a skosh of play for alignment or clearance. I’m not sure if Brian mentioned this but for sheet goods primarily I would stay with the 500, and lumber and thick stock the df-700, when you want those bigger dominoes.
Endgrain to engrain is quite strong… put enough glue and apply enough pressure and the glue wickes into the pores on both sides creating a continuous joint… its the reason why a simple mitred butt joint is surprisingly strong
Thanks for taking the time to present this comparison, and for relieving the intimidation factor for the 700. Very helpful video.
Glad to help !!!
Excellent video as always. Have the 500. Will be purchasing the 700 shortly.
Wicked cool !!!!
Excellent session guys! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great timing! I just picked up a 700 from recon to go along with my 500. Still need to get a couple domino/tenon kits for the 700 but my wallet needs to recover a bit before I do. Very informational video. Thanks Guys!
Right on!
Great comparison. I have both machines and the DF700 was my first Festool purchase years ago.
Right on!
Me too- my first Festool: 700
Great video! I learned a new new things about the DF 500 have!
Glad it was helpful!
I learned plenty on this one lads cheers.
Thank you Brother !!!!!!!
Tempted to get it even though I don’t have the need… yet 😂 I definitely learned the use cases the XL would be advantageous and the added benefits such as the depth stops for plunging. Thanks Sedge!
Thanks Aaron for all your support !!!
Brilliant video gentlemen!! I was using my DF 500 a few days ago, LOVING the precision and the system (used it in conjunction with the KV connectors and the LR-32) and I was inspired to make a t-shirt that says "...I would rather be plunging my Domino ". ( I don't know how to make t-shirts, but know people who do). 😊
Thanks for sharing!
Been over thinking this decision lol thanks for doing this video!
Glad I could help!
I have both, I used the 700 making my first door out of solid walnut. I find I use the 500 10 to 1 for other projects. But, after using the Domino it's my go to machine rather than spend a lot of time making solid mortise and tenon joints.
Good points !!!
Excellent informative video. Another 💎 Sedge.
Glad you enjoyed it
what do you think of the adapters that allow the smaller cutters and thus the smaller tenons with the XL? Best of both worlds?
Glad you asked ... I have never wanted to mess with any adaptors .. the shafts of the cutters of the DF500 domino bits have a thinner shaft to combine with the torque of the Df700...
I bought the 700 thinking I’d replace the 500 and use the adapter. Long story short, kept both and the Seneca kit never left the paper.
Sedge...Why doesn't Festool make the Domino 500 with the reference pins like with the 700? I always have to install the side stop when I need 20mm reference while you show that the 700 has pins at the 20, 37, & 50mm position. Thanks for all your videos. I really enjoy them.
Gary the earliest models of the DF500 had pins at 37mm...They changed because the pins were crushing the long points of miters , sometimes getting in the way when doing narrower stock, and also people weren't dry-fitting and they were getting glue on the pins when trying to fix mortising mistakes and the pins were seizing up so they went to the flap style , no crushing and can be locked back out of the way ...... I hope this helps ....
It looks like on the 700 you can push the pin out of the way so they should not get in the way. @@sedgetool
Sedge,
I have really loved your domino videos. They have helped me use them with confidence and I reach for them more often for joinery. I am actually thinking about how I can modify a plan to use the domino vs. other joinery techniques. One question that I have that I think would be a great video is a demonstration of glueing up the domino joints. I am still not sure if I am using enough glue or too much, do I put a little more glue into the wider mortices, etc. I also liked your trick using a block plane to shave the edges off a tenon for dry fitting. I do not have a block plane so I use a sanding block to take that nib off the edges.
Anyways, keep up the great content! Love them all.
Thanks...I should do a domino glue up video !!! ....Wicked cool !!
@@sedgetool WICKED IDEA!!
toujours très intéressant de vous voir expliquer et avec beaucoup d'humour, merci
Merci Beaucoup !!!
I assume even with the seneca plates, one cannot do mid panel mortises on 3/4 ply?
You sure can ... don't use the gauge block and use the scale set to 9mm if you use 18mm ply ..or use the gauge block set to 16mm in the window and use a 1mm shim stock...need to do a video on this ..THANKS !!
@@sedgetool Thanks, but I meant the registration with the base that's 10mm on the DF500 against a mid panel that's clamped down. I'm having difficulty figuring out a way to do it with the DF700's 15mm.
I missed out on the interior door end user class!
Sorry Matt .. It was one of my favorites to teach !!
@@sedgetool maybe I could get the plans from that class?
Great information, but I'm bummed. Santa did not bring me a DF500 for Christmas this year (mostly cabinets). Looking forward to my Birthday, or a project for my wife here I need it. The husband carpenter rule: We will do no project, unless it requires a new tool 🤣🤣🙃
Love it...I always took my spouse furniture shopping to acquire new tools for the shop....many many years ago .... just a hint Warren !!
@@sedgetool Don't have to, she comes into my office with pictures and URL's for me to look at. 🤣
Not covered, use of the standard and wide slots on the 700 as compared to the 500. Why three settings on the 500 and 2 on the 700? Great refresher. Thank you.
Good point !!
might need to do another video .. left a few points out ...
Great info, appreciate the details. The half of 32 is exactly why mm or inches is an irrelevant argument. If the measurement isn’t relative I always check it with my CM Pro calculator. I’ve been know to mess up half of 15mm LOL.
Thanks for the info!
Westside barbell.... C-bus icon. Didn't know sedgetool was in town lifting 😂
Westside Rules !!!
The 700 indexing levers, would they fit the 500? I realize they would probably be a premium price😊
nope different post and thread .... have a link in this video for the 500
ua-cam.com/video/lyHctMqslxo/v-deo.html
Acompanho sempre seus vídeos,sou marceneiro,mas lastimo que aqui no Brasil não temos essas máquinas.Entao eu fico só namorando essas belezuras.
be patient....
I’m still not clear when the 700 is NOT needed. Obviously great for doors, but what about tables and chairs? I’m guessing the size makes the difference, but I’m not sure what size.
length of tenon
Great comparison! If I wasn't going to use a Domino a lot (just as a hobbyist), is there anything a Domino 500 can do that a Domino 700 & Seneca adaptor cannot? In other words, does the size of the 700 make something impossible or impractical?
The DF700 to me is way too bulky to use on cabinetry .... and small pieces..... I always recommend the DF500 for the majority of work...... I have always stayed away from adaptors ....
To the commenter below: It’s technically not end grain to end grain on a mitered joint over 30 degree in the case of a scarf joint mitered or a 45 degree cut. I would still try to put a spline in if strength and integrity is important. Also different species absorb the glue at different rates. Cedar vs. Doug Fir (SPF) and also the cut of wood flat sawn or vertical grain. So I find myself having to reapply the glue 3x so it’s not a dry fitted joint. I always try to throw in at least 2 dominoes on a 2x4 material for example if I’m butting material or mitering a joint, that way as Sedge explained you get greater and added glue surface on the long grain, it makes a very strong won’t fail joint for board stretching. I cut three times and it’s still too short!
I would recommend getting the mahogany (sapelle) 5x30 dominoes for any exterior work. I think the domino does well to replace a biscuit and provides strength, but the biscuit gives you a little wiggle room. I usually use the tight fitting on the ends and I go a little looser inside the material. But you can make one side on the middle loose setting as opposed to both.
If you don’t own a DF-700 you can stack the dominoes to get you by in a pinch, but then you are increasing the difficulty for alignment. There’s always a standard mortise and tenon, but the DF-700 makes the joint kids play.
I’ve created my own looser joint (tighter than the middle setting) by just sliding the centerline of the domino over slightly on my reference center marks on my lumber material on the df-500 and replunging, if I want to just add a skosh of play for alignment or clearance.
I’m not sure if Brian mentioned this but for sheet goods primarily I would stay with the 500, and lumber and thick stock the df-700, when you want those bigger dominoes.
Good Points ...Thanks for responding....
@@sedgetool you’re welcome. Enjoy your Sunday!
Endgrain to engrain is quite strong… put enough glue and apply enough pressure and the glue wickes into the pores on both sides creating a continuous joint… its the reason why a simple mitred butt joint is surprisingly strong
ok