I wish extra parts weren't required for this. That being said, I'm excited to get this set for the Holidays and can't wait to motorize it. Will def refer back to these instructions. They were really helpful!!
Can you do this sort of tutorial for the holiday main street tram moc that you did. I would find it really helpful also want to say you have the most interesting winter village in lego I seen. Looking forward to seeing this years.
Thanks for the useful tutorial ! To get the motor, the hub and even a remote I would recommend to buy a set that contains those pars. For example if you by twice the 60197 you get a cool and long train and you can use the extra motor/hub/remote you don't especially need for your Hogwarts train.
I had issues with it derailing around tight curves. The front wheels of the locomotive are an issue and it’s the same issue with the couplers. Those just aren’t meant to be pushed, they only work for pulling. You gotta remove the technic coupler from the front wheels and attach it directly to the car using a technic pin so it can rotate freely but it can’t move horizontally.
Is this for 75955 or the one that’s currently out? The older one, wasn’t originally meant for motorization and so the train bogey isn’t designed for turns. On that set, the front 2x2 brick that flips up, needs to be up and out of the way or it blocks the bogey from turning. The front bogey also needs at least 1-2 extra studs of length added. Because when you turn the bogey on a curved track, you’ll notice the wheels will collide and rub because they’re too close together. It needs more space between the front bogey wheels to not do that. For the couplers, junk the technic pins in the set. Use either ball and hinge 2x plates, or buy the magnetic couplers lego makes and put a rounded 1x2 jumper on the top coupler studs so they’re locked in. These changes should help.
Very neatly done. I’ll be trying this next week. Do you think there’s space for a colour sensor in there somewhere? Maybe in the Loco or next carriage? Want to do some coding with it.
It’s harder to extend the coal car out any further to add a color sensor. Any longer and it becomes much harder to make train curves. In my own, it’s extended with an extra set of wheels on a swivel and still struggles. If you want to experiment with color sensors, the winter village trolley car is much more suitable.
@ I’m thinking maybe build the sensor into the first passenger car; I’ll try it out and see what I come up with. I’ve managed to get one fitted in the Winter Holiday train (10254) and it works really well. I’m trying to get 2 trains running on the same track coded together so they don’t crash!
I'm new to train sets by lego and I bought this one as my first one. I was wondering which type of track you use? When I looked to get some, there were a couple of different lego tracks.
Lego only currently makes two sets of tracks which I only buy official lego. amzn.to/3JAPESp the box of straight and curves and the switch tracks. amzn.to/3t15r7b You don’t use the switch track much unless you have a large amount of room, I only have one set of that. I bought 3 boxes of straight/curved to make a large oval track. It was actually too much. You can get by with two.
Noob question. Can this work with a remote as well? I have a child, and I'd like the train to be usable without a phone. If so, does the type of controller matter? This entire video and parts list is awesome, thank you!
Hey MoonManBricks! Thank you so much! We used all your info and it was really helpful as this is our first upgrade-build for my son and I! The parts list and link to Bricklink was amazing for a first time re-build! Phew! I ESPECIALLY love your excellently re-written directions with inventory at the end! SO amazing. I'd love to make one suggestion as we motorize ours with the old Bluetooth Remote Control set up. The coupling you suggest in the parts is the 2-hole Technic 2M Beam connector. I STRONGLY SUGGEST instead using a Technic 3M Beam (3 hole connector #32523) for the coupling. It gives the car more room for tighter turns. Otherwise it derails the car or the next car as they hit together as they go around a tight turn.
Thank you!!!! We didn’t change those from the original set, that’s why. I actually suggest using the magnetic train buffers as an alternate (29085c01). Which swaps out the links and the 2x3 modified plate with hole, perfectly in place. It’s also more realistic than using the technic pieces and the buffers are cheap.
Thank you for the tutorial. If I would like to use the magnet couplers instead of the technic pins do I just ignore the parts between 2:08 and 3:45 in the video?
Hey! So the only part you wouldn't use is the Dark Bluish Gray 2x6 with hole in it and the technic pins. The rest is the same, When you get the couplers you just replace that one part and it works seamlessly. Likewise, you do the same on the original train engine and the passenger car because they all use that same DBG part/pins, and the coupler fits exactly in the same space as those parts. The newest coupler is the train buffer type 3 but you can buy version 2 or 3, the difference is just the bottom has an extra piece of plastic for stability. You can see/buy it here. - www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=29085c01&name=Train%20Buffer%20Beam%20with%20Sealed%20Magnets%20-%20Type%203%20(flat%20closed%20bottom)&category=%5BTrain%5D#T=S&O={%22ss%22:%22US%22,%22cond%22:%22N%22,%22loc%22:%22US%22,%22rpp%22:%22200%22,%22iconly%22:0} Or you can buy directly from lego, but it'll take about a month to get to you - www.lego.com/en-us/pick-and-build/pick-a-brick?query=29084&page=1 You should need 5 for the original set. 1 for the engine, 2 for the coal, and 2 for the passenger. If you have more cars, then you'll need more.
@@moonmanbricks oh okay thank you. I figured you didn’t need the brackets and the grill type pieces due to the buffers on the coupler. But I was gonna order all the parts anyway to be on safe side.
They have a newer remote that connects to powered up which also requires the IR sensor to be hooked up to the battery. Most people who do this method remove the brick built engine controls in the HOGWARTS express train and put the IR sensor there instead. Then just hook it up to the battery. I didn’t like this method because the cables are strung between the cars. The app works fine for control and is super easy to do.
I just went ahead and bought the powered up remote in the end. I want to run the train continuously for ambience lol so the app won’t work for me. I had the IR set-up on the winter village train which was fine but I’m not a big fan of seeing the cables either (especially on a steam train xD) so that’s why I chose to go with your mod. It also looks great! Just waiting on the hub and motor to arrive, can’t wait to get started! Out of interest, do you have any guesses as to why they didn’t make this train easily motorisable, with instructions included etc?
@@naightspeed I’m not sure. It’s not that hard of a mod and besides this change it works out of the box on tracks, so I think they at least put thought into it being easy to make run. I’m hoping for a bigger set with a motor one day. Or a UCS version like the Crocodile or Emerald Knight.
No. You only need one set plus the extra parts. You can see which parts come with the set vs the ones you need at 0:50. The ones on the right come with the set. There’s also free instructions and a parts list links in the description.
Hi thank you for the video ! With the app, could you say to the train to go forward for XX seconds and stop. And then moving backward and stop ? I don't have enough space to made a full loop :( Thank you !
I was just looking into this when I was wanting to do the same thing for the new Winter Village Tram coming out. There’s some special programming in the app that allows it. I’ll look into it.
@@rosemarie9956 there’s a bug in the lego app that doesn’t allow it to work properly, so until it gets fixed I’ll hold off but they have some big updates soon, I’m hoping will fix the issue.
The instructions are for the newer 75955 so I don't know. That train is built wildly different from this one. The lego powered-up system could be made to work with that one though since it's lego.
Amazingly, I just now found every piece on pick a brick through Lego directly, for like 15 bucks plus shipping. I was able to waive the shipping by ordering another lego set I wanted anyways which also netted me two promotional freebie sets. I will use the motor and bogie sides from the 60197 set, and for $15 I will now have a functioning train for my daughter before Christmas! Thanks.
No problem! Happy to help! Train Buffer with Sealed Magnets Type 3 is the newest and cheapest one Lego makes. 29085c01 I’ve bought these for my Hogwarts and they work and look great! www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=29085c01&name=Train%20Buffer%20Beam%20with%20Sealed%20Magnets%20-%20Type%203%20(flat%20closed%20bottom)&category=%5BTrain%5D#T=C
I double checked, but the parts lists are correct. On Rebrickable, one part list includes the additional parts you'll need. The other parts list includes the additional parts+the parts already included in the set. The one difference are the red flat tiles, and doesn't matter which ones you use. Either the 1x2's or the 1x4's in the parts list. By Default here - rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86742/moonmanbricks/hp-motorized-hogwarts-express-75955/#parts the list only includes the additional parts, and the battery pack and motor from lego isn't on it, because bricklink doesn't have it as a part to add. The description has links to the battery box kit - rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86742/moonmanbricks/hp-motorized-hogwarts-express-75955/#details Hope that helps!
@@ladylancial I updated the parts list to include those missing pieces, and the motor and battery since those are now available to add to parts lists. Thank you! :)
do you have any tips on derailment issues? I've been getting derailment issues with the 4 small front wheels of this set. Did your modification better because I liked how it covered the whole battery but the derailment is getting frustrating. Help! :(
Out of the box it's not great for tight curves, so there's a couple of things you can do for derailment. A. Make sure that the swivel block in the current set in the front is ALL the way up. When it's not, it doesn't allow for the under carriage in front to turn properly. Same thing for the two pieces on each side that has the stripes, they'll need to be turned up a little. If those rub or block the front from turning, then it can't make sharp curves and may derail. B. If it goes above 80 it's going to derail. Period. Just the way they built it doesn't let it go faster the way it is out of the box. It takes heavy modification to make it not do that. Most of it requires extending the whole train engine and rebuilding the front carriage so that it can freely move. I've done it but currently don't have any plans to release instructions or video for it yet. B. Swap out the technic pin connectors for the magnetic train couplers if cars are derailing. See here - www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=29085c01&name=Train+Buffer+Beam+with+Sealed+Magnets+-+Type+3+%28flat+closed+bottom%29&category=%5BTrain%5D#T=C you can buy them cheap from bricklink. This works without modification. You literally just swap the pieces out.
If the swivel continues to derail use the original coal cart and fill it with a couple brick, it stops derailment because the front is not experiencing the full force of the motor. You can also your a long circular prices that has holes for technic pins.
This one is to scale unlike most, and you can’t see the battery or wires. If you wanted it to be the same height as the other cars, it’s just one more row of bricks. I made it less, because I like the slight height difference.
Someone who actually responds to questions and comments about their videos. Great
I wish extra parts weren't required for this. That being said, I'm excited to get this set for the Holidays and can't wait to motorize it. Will def refer back to these instructions. They were really helpful!!
I’m your 1000th subscriber!!!!!!!
Thank you very much! 🤩
@ 😁
Also thanks for the great tutorial!
Epic! Thank you for putting this together! Love having Hogwarts Express going around my christmas tree! 🎄
Awesome! Glad it worked out for you. 👍 Happy Holidays!
We just bought and build this and me and my husband are over the moon with it. Thank you. Especially cause all the wires etc are covered. Love it!
That's awesome! I'm glad I could help! :)
My problem was the rods because it dosent make such thing it dosent connect to cylinder and it not to every wheels
@@ericcartman65378 what
Great video! And many kudos for the instructions!
Glad it was helpful! 🤩
Does it works on the official lego train controller not the power function one that some lego trains use
The only official controller that works with the LEGO Powered up hub is this one. www.lego.com/en-us/product/remote-control-88010
@moonmanbricks OK THANKS
Can you do this sort of tutorial for the holiday main street tram moc that you did. I would find it really helpful also want to say you have the most interesting winter village in lego I seen. Looking forward to seeing this years.
The instructions for the set actually have the additional instruction in the back if you want to add a lego battery. 😍
Thanks for the useful tutorial ! To get the motor, the hub and even a remote I would recommend to buy a set that contains those pars. For example if you by twice the 60197 you get a cool and long train and you can use the extra motor/hub/remote you don't especially need for your Hogwarts train.
Thanks for the idea! I just bought one :)
Thanks so much for the detailed video 👍 I now have a very happy 5 year old who is stoked his Harry Potter train is now motorised 😃
This makes me so happy to hear! Thank you! :)
I had issues with it derailing around tight curves. The front wheels of the locomotive are an issue and it’s the same issue with the couplers. Those just aren’t meant to be pushed, they only work for pulling. You gotta remove the technic coupler from the front wheels and attach it directly to the car using a technic pin so it can rotate freely but it can’t move horizontally.
Is this for 75955 or the one that’s currently out? The older one, wasn’t originally meant for motorization and so the train bogey isn’t designed for turns. On that set, the front 2x2 brick that flips up, needs to be up and out of the way or it blocks the bogey from turning. The front bogey also needs at least 1-2 extra studs of length added. Because when you turn the bogey on a curved track, you’ll notice the wheels will collide and rub because they’re too close together. It needs more space between the front bogey wheels to not do that. For the couplers, junk the technic pins in the set. Use either ball and hinge 2x plates, or buy the magnetic couplers lego makes and put a rounded 1x2 jumper on the top coupler studs so they’re locked in. These changes should help.
This is awesome. Just got my train- putting it together now. Subscribed 👍
Love it! Thanks for the video Moonman it's great, well done :)
Very neatly done. I’ll be trying this next week.
Do you think there’s space for a colour sensor in there somewhere? Maybe in the Loco or next carriage? Want to do some coding with it.
It’s harder to extend the coal car out any further to add a color sensor. Any longer and it becomes much harder to make train curves. In my own, it’s extended with an extra set of wheels on a swivel and still struggles. If you want to experiment with color sensors, the winter village trolley car is much more suitable.
@ I’m thinking maybe build the sensor into the first passenger car; I’ll try it out and see what I come up with.
I’ve managed to get one fitted in the Winter Holiday train (10254) and it works really well. I’m trying to get 2 trains running on the same track coded together so they don’t crash!
Thank you so much this was awesome. We got our set motorized now :)
Спасибо тебе мужик! Ты мне помог ещё два года назад!😎👍 Извини что так поздно пишу комментарий! Удачи тебе!
I'm new to train sets by lego and I bought this one as my first one. I was wondering which type of track you use? When I looked to get some, there were a couple of different lego tracks.
Lego only currently makes two sets of tracks which I only buy official lego. amzn.to/3JAPESp the box of straight and curves and the switch tracks. amzn.to/3t15r7b You don’t use the switch track much unless you have a large amount of room, I only have one set of that. I bought 3 boxes of straight/curved to make a large oval track. It was actually too much. You can get by with two.
Noob question. Can this work with a remote as well? I have a child, and I'd like the train to be usable without a phone. If so, does the type of controller matter? This entire video and parts list is awesome, thank you!
The powered up system works with the powered up remote lego sells. So yep! 😊
Hey there...I'm stuck on getting the side rails you start off with that covers the wheels. Do you know a part number for them?
Parts list is in the description. 😁
Hey MoonManBricks! Thank you so much! We used all your info and it was really helpful as this is our first upgrade-build for my son and I! The parts list and link to Bricklink was amazing for a first time re-build! Phew! I ESPECIALLY love your excellently re-written directions with inventory at the end! SO amazing.
I'd love to make one suggestion as we motorize ours with the old Bluetooth Remote Control set up. The coupling you suggest in the parts is the 2-hole Technic 2M Beam connector. I STRONGLY SUGGEST instead using a Technic 3M Beam (3 hole connector #32523) for the coupling. It gives the car more room for tighter turns. Otherwise it derails the car or the next car as they hit together as they go around a tight turn.
Sorry, I had the wrong item number on that Technic 3M Beam (3 holes): The correct LEGO number is 4142822.
Thank you!!!! We didn’t change those from the original set, that’s why. I actually suggest using the magnetic train buffers as an alternate (29085c01). Which swaps out the links and the 2x3 modified plate with hole, perfectly in place. It’s also more realistic than using the technic pieces and the buffers are cheap.
hey there, is there any good way to motorize this with gears? trying to get that realistic drive rod look lol
I'm sure there's some tutorials out there. I don't have any experience with gearing on trains. I haven't needed to for what I use this for.
hi mate, thanks for the input.
my question: do part 39886 works like part 2871b (side pieces for the wheels)?
thank you so much!
Either one should work. Just get whatever is cheapest.
@@moonmanbricks 1000x thanks!
Could you possibly send a link as to where to buy all the extra parts? Or what type of pieces they are and how many I need?
Check the link in the description for that info. 😁 Parts list and parts available on bricklink. Motors are on LEGO.com
Thank you for the tutorial. If I would like to use the magnet couplers instead of the technic pins do I just ignore the parts between 2:08 and 3:45 in the video?
Hey! So the only part you wouldn't use is the Dark Bluish Gray 2x6 with hole in it and the technic pins. The rest is the same, When you get the couplers you just replace that one part and it works seamlessly. Likewise, you do the same on the original train engine and the passenger car because they all use that same DBG part/pins, and the coupler fits exactly in the same space as those parts.
The newest coupler is the train buffer type 3 but you can buy version 2 or 3, the difference is just the bottom has an extra piece of plastic for stability. You can see/buy it here. - www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=29085c01&name=Train%20Buffer%20Beam%20with%20Sealed%20Magnets%20-%20Type%203%20(flat%20closed%20bottom)&category=%5BTrain%5D#T=S&O={%22ss%22:%22US%22,%22cond%22:%22N%22,%22loc%22:%22US%22,%22rpp%22:%22200%22,%22iconly%22:0}
Or you can buy directly from lego, but it'll take about a month to get to you - www.lego.com/en-us/pick-and-build/pick-a-brick?query=29084&page=1
You should need 5 for the original set. 1 for the engine, 2 for the coal, and 2 for the passenger. If you have more cars, then you'll need more.
@@moonmanbricks oh okay thank you. I figured you didn’t need the brackets and the grill type pieces due to the buffers on the coupler. But I was gonna order all the parts anyway to be on safe side.
Will this work on the new hogwarts express set?
It’s not the same set, but the way in which it works with powered up should. I’ll buy the new set and do a new video for that one.
@moonmanbricks cool please do it will be helpful
Does the old remote control work with the powered up system?
They have a newer remote that connects to powered up which also requires the IR sensor to be hooked up to the battery. Most people who do this method remove the brick built engine controls in the HOGWARTS express train and put the IR sensor there instead. Then just hook it up to the battery. I didn’t like this method because the cables are strung between the cars. The app works fine for control and is super easy to do.
I just went ahead and bought the powered up remote in the end. I want to run the train continuously for ambience lol so the app won’t work for me. I had the IR set-up on the winter village train which was fine but I’m not a big fan of seeing the cables either (especially on a steam train xD) so that’s why I chose to go with your mod. It also looks great! Just waiting on the hub and motor to arrive, can’t wait to get started!
Out of interest, do you have any guesses as to why they didn’t make this train easily motorisable, with instructions included etc?
@@naightspeed I’m not sure. It’s not that hard of a mod and besides this change it works out of the box on tracks, so I think they at least put thought into it being easy to make run. I’m hoping for a bigger set with a motor one day. Or a UCS version like the Crocodile or Emerald Knight.
Do we need to sets to bulid it? Thanks!
No. You only need one set plus the extra parts. You can see which parts come with the set vs the ones you need at 0:50. The ones on the right come with the set. There’s also free instructions and a parts list links in the description.
Hi thank you for the video ! With the app, could you say to the train to go forward for XX seconds and stop. And then moving backward and stop ? I don't have enough space to made a full loop :( Thank you !
I was just looking into this when I was wanting to do the same thing for the new Winter Village Tram coming out. There’s some special programming in the app that allows it. I’ll look into it.
@@moonmanbricks Thank you ! It will be great :)
@@moonmanbricks Let us know what you did with the winter village tram. Would love to see that.
@@rosemarie9956 there’s a bug in the lego app that doesn’t allow it to work properly, so until it gets fixed I’ll hold off but they have some big updates soon, I’m hoping will fix the issue.
Exactly what I needed thanks!
Legendary
Will this work with the old Hogwarts Express Set too?
The instructions are for the newer 75955 so I don't know. That train is built wildly different from this one. The lego powered-up system could be made to work with that one though since it's lego.
Amazingly, I just now found every piece on pick a brick through Lego directly, for like 15 bucks plus shipping. I was able to waive the shipping by ordering another lego set I wanted anyways which also netted me two promotional freebie sets. I will use the motor and bogie sides from the 60197 set, and for $15 I will now have a functioning train for my daughter before Christmas! Thanks.
That is awesome! I hope she loved it!
What is the brick number for the side pieces for the wheels?
@kasperandturbo 2871b. You can find the parts list and add the parts to your brinklink from the rebrickable page linked in the description. 😊
@@moonmanbricks
Ty very much.
Do you know what magnetic couplers people are using?
Sorry for all the questions but I'm just getting into legos.
No problem! Happy to help! Train Buffer with Sealed Magnets Type 3 is the newest and cheapest one Lego makes. 29085c01 I’ve bought these for my Hogwarts and they work and look great! www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=29085c01&name=Train%20Buffer%20Beam%20with%20Sealed%20Magnets%20-%20Type%203%20(flat%20closed%20bottom)&category=%5BTrain%5D#T=C
I was so excited to build, but your parts list is actually different than the video shows! :( Could you update?
I double checked, but the parts lists are correct. On Rebrickable, one part list includes the additional parts you'll need. The other parts list includes the additional parts+the parts already included in the set. The one difference are the red flat tiles, and doesn't matter which ones you use. Either the 1x2's or the 1x4's in the parts list.
By Default here - rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86742/moonmanbricks/hp-motorized-hogwarts-express-75955/#parts the list only includes the additional parts, and the battery pack and motor from lego isn't on it, because bricklink doesn't have it as a part to add. The description has links to the battery box kit - rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86742/moonmanbricks/hp-motorized-hogwarts-express-75955/#details
Hope that helps!
@@moonmanbricks Yeah It seems like it's still missing 2 extra pieces of SNOT for 3:19 and the 2 red 2x6s for 4:49.
@@ladylancial thank you I’ll update the list!
@@moonmanbricks No problem! Luckily I was able to modify with some bricks I have on hand. Thanks for the video it's awesome!
@@ladylancial I updated the parts list to include those missing pieces, and the motor and battery since those are now available to add to parts lists. Thank you! :)
do you have any tips on derailment issues? I've been getting derailment issues with the 4 small front wheels of this set. Did your modification better because I liked how it covered the whole battery but the derailment is getting frustrating. Help! :(
Out of the box it's not great for tight curves, so there's a couple of things you can do for derailment.
A. Make sure that the swivel block in the current set in the front is ALL the way up. When it's not, it doesn't allow for the under carriage in front to turn properly. Same thing for the two pieces on each side that has the stripes, they'll need to be turned up a little. If those rub or block the front from turning, then it can't make sharp curves and may derail.
B. If it goes above 80 it's going to derail. Period. Just the way they built it doesn't let it go faster the way it is out of the box. It takes heavy modification to make it not do that. Most of it requires extending the whole train engine and rebuilding the front carriage so that it can freely move. I've done it but currently don't have any plans to release instructions or video for it yet.
B. Swap out the technic pin connectors for the magnetic train couplers if cars are derailing. See here - www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=29085c01&name=Train+Buffer+Beam+with+Sealed+Magnets+-+Type+3+%28flat+closed+bottom%29&category=%5BTrain%5D#T=C you can buy them cheap from bricklink. This works without modification. You literally just swap the pieces out.
@@moonmanbricks Thank you! I did option A. I was sad so let some details go but that or derailment, lol! Thanks again!
If the swivel continues to derail use the original coal cart and fill it with a couple brick, it stops derailment because the front is not experiencing the full force of the motor. You can also your a long circular prices that has holes for technic pins.
Great
Thank you very much for this and the original on rebrickable. Don't have an account there so wanted to leave a thanks and Like here instead.
You're very welcome!
I personally don’t like motorised Lego trains. I just made the tender an accurate size compared to the engine itself lol
This one is to scale unlike most, and you can’t see the battery or wires. If you wanted it to be the same height as the other cars, it’s just one more row of bricks. I made it less, because I like the slight height difference.