In a bleak COVID world it warms my heart to see Jang wearing his train hat and a smile! (after his initial disappointment) Great videos, great set, keep it up!
Bleak is right. Thank you for your Comment. I can't afford more than figs and Polybags now that Covid killed my job and income. Long live you other AFOLs and Jang!
Thank me later, your welcome, here are all the parts needed to build Jang's modification for the gap. Pls like. It took a little while. :) Light Bluish Gray Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Stud on 1 Side (x2) Light Bluish Gray Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Studs on 1 Side (x2) Reddish Brown Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Stud on 1 Side (x4) Reddish Brown Plate 1 x 1 (x4) Reddish Brown Plate 1 x 4 (x4) Reddish Brown Slope 30 1 x 2 x 2/3 (x8) Reddish Brown Tile 1 x 4 (x6)
Step 157 Page 105 I think would be the place to do the modification during the build, not after. Then maybe the original "vented" bricks can still be used. Forgive me I am not an expert builder. Just an old guy who likes to assemble kits.
Sorry but I think that is not completely correct, I believe the tiles are actually just 3 studs long not 4 from the looks of it, and if I am not mistaken you missed the brow 1 x1 brick x4 behind the studded brown brick. But please correct me if I am wrong!
Near same list, but with item # for Lego replacement parts (not Pick A Brick!) Unless otherwise specified, all parts are labeled as "Reddish Brown" or "Red. Brown" 4 - 1x4 plate- 4211190 4 - 1x1 plate - 4221744 8 - 1x2 roof tile - 6035291 4 - 1x1 brick - 4211242 4 - 1x1 anglular brick (w stud) - 87087 6 - 1x3 flat tile - 6100769 - (or 1x4 - 4211194) - 1x3 and 1x4 are same price 2 - 1x1 anglular brick (w stud) black (black was cheapest) - 87087 2 - 1x2 anglular brick (w 2 studs) black (black was cheapest) - 6138173 Total part price was less than $3.00
This is great. Fixing all the major shortcomings and with such a modest extra effort. This train is an absolute beauty on a track in motion I have to say.
AND thats the good thing about bricks, a company releases a flawed thing but within a couple of days, the community manages to create work arounds to remedy or even fix the flaws entirely!
Thank you for the tutorial, although I didn't, and will not, buy the set, I'm glad you're helping other people improve their sets! Just wondering, what's the part ID for that weighted brick?
73090a or 73090b on BrickLink, www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=73090a#T=S&O={%22iconly%22:0} www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=73090b#T=S&O={%22iconly%22:0}
Followed JANG’s mods with my set with a few changes. Spaced out the textured 1x2 bricks with a smooth 1x2 in between for more realistic looking vents and extended the grey lip at the bottom to cover the additional brown bricks that hide the gap.
bro i used to b ur biggest fan when u were a kid so glad to see ur still at it all these years later ur half my childhood and millions of others love u bro
Fantastic, and so simple! Just wish you'd shared some more footage of it going around your city, such a great sight seeing this very long locomotive going through all the small and large turns of your layout!
Nice vid Jang! I actually did the same thing with modernly motorizing the 7750 train, got the power functions part build into the box car. Works like a charm!😊👍
Quality as usual Sir Jang. Great simple fixes that have etched the smile we see upon your face. Pleased you are happier still with the set now and that you finally get to wear your engineer cap as it speeds through new jang city.
This was a great idea to provide simple fixes for people based off of what you did for the train. I hope this continues to be a “series” (so to speak) for any future set(s) you may “improve”. I’m not a huge train fan, but did enjoy this video, informational.
I have watched this video a number of times first when it came out and again when building it originally and now now to sort the issues - may sound strange but just want to say a massive thanks you Jang for this one 😎😎😎
Jang, regarding the wheels on the middle section. It's not just the rubbing of the flanges. Because the bends are so tight there's a big difference in the length of the inside and outside rail, meaning that wheels on one side need to slip. That's also the reason why on the old 12V rails you see the grooves on the outside rail but not on the inside. What all that means is that removing the rubber bands on just one side should already make a big change because the wheels on the side without bands can now slip in turns.
Wow. Thanks Jang. You have always so,good ideas and solutions for existing problems. Now this is real fun. Keep up the good work. Stay safe. You‘re really an expert. If I was Lego, I would hire you immediately.
Great job Jang! Now I'm going to de-motorize all my locomotives, create one motorized box-car, and use this one on all my combinations. Result: lots of spare 9v motors
thankyou a ton for this video, i ordered the model on a bit of a whim and this'll save me headache of it derailing off my housemates tracks and setup, i'll have to order those parts too to cover the gap as well. thanks.
Hey Jang, I think it would be really neat to see the crocodile locomotive in action in your city with the modifications you have added on. The modifications you added really enhance the train and I would love to see it run through your layout. Btw you did mention in your reaction video that we would see it in action. :)
Nice! At 9:16 you should move the 3 grill bricks across by 1 and put the 1x1x1 at the other end. It’s more accurate to the real thing anyway. Also love the hat!
Thanks for these tips. I have not built my locomotive yet, so seeing this now I can do the modifications as I build. I like the idea of having it pushed by a motorized wagon, if I find the right design for the wagon I can use that on other locomotives without an engine too. And cool engineer hat :-)
Thanks for the tutorial Jang! I’m planning on picking this up soon, so I’m glad you’ve shown a solution for when I run this on my track. P.S. I’m glad you finally got to wear the hat 😉
I got pointed here after posting a video of my Crocodile juddering through a curves in points and I'm certainly going to try to remove the rubber bands. Thanks.
8:47 I think you can use some 2x2/2x3 plates and bricks with stud on the side in the middle instead of the sides so you don't change the visible bricks, but nice to know that there are solutions to the gab problem and the derailing problem
I’m glad to see you can finally put the hat on and be happy about it
Was going to say the same :) I’m glad for you Jangbricks that you found these workarounds so fast!!
Happy trainfun!
In a bleak COVID world it warms my heart to see Jang wearing his train hat and a smile! (after his initial disappointment) Great videos, great set, keep it up!
Bleak is right. Thank you for your Comment. I can't afford more than figs and Polybags now that Covid killed my job and income. Long live you other AFOLs and Jang!
In alle the months I haven’t heard a more fitting adjective than “bleak“. Thank you for that! And I wish you all the best from Austria!
no effort, no special effects, just 100% real lego enthusiasm, I don't build lego anymore but your channel always inspire me
Thank me later, your welcome, here are all the parts needed to build Jang's modification for the gap. Pls like. It took a little while. :)
Light Bluish Gray Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Stud on 1 Side (x2)
Light Bluish Gray Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Studs on 1 Side (x2)
Reddish Brown Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Stud on 1 Side (x4)
Reddish Brown Plate 1 x 1 (x4)
Reddish Brown Plate 1 x 4 (x4)
Reddish Brown Slope 30 1 x 2 x 2/3 (x8)
Reddish Brown Tile 1 x 4 (x6)
Step 157 Page 105 I think would be the place to do the modification during the build, not after. Then maybe the original "vented" bricks can still be used. Forgive me I am not an expert builder. Just an old guy who likes to assemble kits.
Very helpful, thanks. Where can I order these?
Perrygallo Bricklink.com
Sorry but I think that is not completely correct, I believe the tiles are actually just 3 studs long not 4 from the looks of it, and if I am not mistaken you missed the brow 1 x1 brick x4 behind the studded brown brick. But please correct me if I am wrong!
Near same list, but with item # for Lego replacement parts (not Pick A Brick!)
Unless otherwise specified, all parts are labeled as "Reddish Brown" or "Red. Brown"
4 - 1x4 plate- 4211190
4 - 1x1 plate - 4221744
8 - 1x2 roof tile - 6035291
4 - 1x1 brick - 4211242
4 - 1x1 anglular brick (w stud) - 87087
6 - 1x3 flat tile - 6100769 - (or 1x4 - 4211194) - 1x3 and 1x4 are same price
2 - 1x1 anglular brick (w stud) black (black was cheapest) - 87087
2 - 1x2 anglular brick (w 2 studs) black (black was cheapest) - 6138173
Total part price was less than $3.00
Well, would you look at that! Jang found a way to solve the deraillement and gap problem! And it really was a small mod! Good for you, Jang!
Great fixes! I can’t believe the rubber band one! And that gap fix is beautifully simple! Well done @JangBricks! Thank you for sharing
I smiled the first time I saw the Crocodile wind through the curved track on JANG’s layout. So glad you could fix it to get it to work on your layout.
This is great. Fixing all the major shortcomings and with such a modest extra effort.
This train is an absolute beauty on a track in motion I have to say.
This is a really useful video, and I would just like to say, that is a very nice hat!
So glad I hear you grin/laughing inside your self and being happy about the 10277. Cap’s up ☝🏻. 🇳🇱
On mine I changed the red ball joints on the coupling rods to black ones, looks so much nicer. Excellent video as always!
Thanks for the tip on closing up the gaps, easy and makes so much difference to the look of the model.
AND thats the good thing about bricks, a company releases a flawed thing but within a couple of days, the community manages to create work arounds to remedy or even fix the flaws entirely!
Thank you for the tutorial, although I didn't, and will not, buy the set, I'm glad you're helping other people improve their sets! Just wondering, what's the part ID for that weighted brick?
LEGO design number 78343. Quite a pricey piece now direct from LEGO, somewhat cheaper used via Bricklink.
73090a or 73090b on BrickLink,
www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=73090a#T=S&O={%22iconly%22:0}
www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=73090b#T=S&O={%22iconly%22:0}
@@anson42 Thank you!
@@brixstudios8133 Thank you for letting me know!
Anson Mah was LEGO offering it from Bricks & Pieces until recently? I’ve never seen it from them
Followed JANG’s mods with my set with a few changes. Spaced out the textured 1x2 bricks with a smooth 1x2 in between for more realistic looking vents and extended the grey lip at the bottom to cover the additional brown bricks that hide the gap.
bro i used to b ur biggest fan when u were a kid so glad to see ur still at it all these years later ur half my childhood and millions of others love u bro
Fantastic, and so simple! Just wish you'd shared some more footage of it going around your city, such a great sight seeing this very long locomotive going through all the small and large turns of your layout!
Love all your fixes! So helpful for the AFOL community. Great ideas!
Love that you finally had the hat on at the end! Haha
As somebody who plans to buy and motorize this, this video gives me a lot of confidence in my purchase
I'm a N scale and HO guy, only having some lego trains and this layout is absolutelly lovely, ths is 100% model railroading.
I used to have Legos then I watched you're videos and now I feel like a kid again and thank you for that🙂
The UNSC bison custom you made sometime ago is actually really great! It has good aesthetic for the UNSC and fits in well good job
I did the mod to fill in the gaps on the Crocodile Locomotive. It looks great! Thanks Jang
Great idea and I liked the close up at 1:05.
Good video Jang, Not only does it function better it looks better.
Thanks for posting.
Before I had seen this I did not have plans to pick up this set. These steps make it so easy to modify, that I now have plans to pick this set up.
Nice vid Jang! I actually did the same thing with modernly motorizing the 7750 train, got the power functions part build into the box car. Works like a charm!😊👍
Hello huge fan of your city and love watching your vids :) Also love the hat
hey JANG. Thanks for this , as a Lego lover that has trouble MOCing your videos like this rock. Thanks bruv.
Quality as usual Sir Jang. Great simple fixes that have etched the smile we see upon your face. Pleased you are happier still with the set now and that you finally get to wear your engineer cap as it speeds through new jang city.
I am so happy you Fixed the big gap! =)
hey JANG. That's amazing that the rubber bands stop this rounding corners, bruv you rock.
Thank you for this! 🙏🏼 I just ordered mine a few days ago during my recent LEGO haul. I will definitely try this solution 👍🏼
This was a great idea to provide simple fixes for people based off of what you did for the train. I hope this continues to be a “series” (so to speak) for any future set(s) you may “improve”. I’m not a huge train fan, but did enjoy this video, informational.
I knew he would do this video after watching his latest post in Instagram. Jang as always, being the best!
These fixes for issues (like the unmonsterfying burger truck) are the reason I'm subbed
I have watched this video a number of times first when it came out and again when building it originally and now now to sort the issues - may sound strange but just want to say a massive thanks you Jang for this one 😎😎😎
Jang, regarding the wheels on the middle section. It's not just the rubbing of the flanges. Because the bends are so tight there's a big difference in the length of the inside and outside rail, meaning that wheels on one side need to slip. That's also the reason why on the old 12V rails you see the grooves on the outside rail but not on the inside. What all that means is that removing the rubber bands on just one side should already make a big change because the wheels on the side without bands can now slip in turns.
Nice! Lego geniuses like Jang are too good for problems!
Thank you so much for these little and still so helpful tricks - you once more make my day! 😎
Nice hat!
Hey Jangbricks I gotta love this set. You’re my favorite you tuber keep up the great videos!
Hi Jang. Man thnks for video. Pls when are your next city video.
ive done this mod to my crocodile just needs to be tested. Thanks Jangbricks
Thanks jang! Now I will be able to run it in my city!
Wow. Thanks Jang. You have always so,good ideas and solutions for existing problems. Now this is real fun. Keep up the good work. Stay safe. You‘re really an expert. If I was Lego, I would hire you immediately.
Great job Jang! Now I'm going to de-motorize all my locomotives, create one motorized box-car, and use this one on all my combinations. Result: lots of spare 9v motors
Honestly, your Lego diorama is awesome! As a child, my dream was to build something similar to it! Keep up the good work!
Nice work Jang, you look much brighter about the set now!
Thanks Jang - love your train videos so much
thankyou a ton for this video, i ordered the model on a bit of a whim and this'll save me headache of it derailing off my housemates tracks and setup, i'll have to order those parts too to cover the gap as well. thanks.
Good to see the hat being used!
thanks for the tips and review of this loco. I think I will do the same mod with the gaps when I buy my set.
Hey Jang, I think it would be really neat to see the crocodile locomotive in action in your city with the modifications you have added on. The modifications you added really enhance the train and I would love to see it run through your layout. Btw you did mention in your reaction video that we would see it in action. :)
Nice! At 9:16 you should move the 3 grill bricks across by 1 and put the 1x1x1 at the other end. It’s more accurate to the real thing anyway. Also love the hat!
This was a really helpful video! I was able to fill the gap with a similar solution, so thank you.
Great tuning tipps!
I am glad to hear you got to get it running in your AMAZING LEGO City ;) + you got a opportunity to wear your Cap/Hat to :D
Jang you are my LEGO train guru!
Superb and simple 💫 🙏 I personally think a Thank you very much, is in place here. Greetings from Amsterdam 🇳🇱
Glad to see that you finally got the wear the train hat, nice fixes Jang!
Neat solutions - perfect tidy up for this lovely LEGO set
Love the hat JANG!!! Great solution to the gap! Thank you for the tip.
Thank you for sharing JANG! If I ever get this eventually, I'll certainly be modifying it just like this!
Great solution. Iam still waiting on my order...
Ah, nice, I’m glad you fixed it.
Great fix! Even though the gap fix works, I think there are even better ways to do that without replacing the side pieces.
Thanks for these tips. I have not built my locomotive yet, so seeing this now I can do the modifications as I build. I like the idea of having it pushed by a motorized wagon, if I find the right design for the wagon I can use that on other locomotives without an engine too. And cool engineer hat :-)
Thank you jang!
Jang, I'm really happy you've managed to fix it! =) It is awesome to see it working knowing what it means for you! =) =) =) Cheers!!!
This is great and makes me want the set even more.
Awesome fix. I buy the bricks for this fix soon on bricklink. Thanks Jang;)
Thanks for the tutorial Jang! I’m planning on picking this up soon, so I’m glad you’ve shown a solution for when I run this on my track.
P.S. I’m glad you finally got to wear the hat 😉
Thanks for the fixes mate
I think Lego should start making larger radius curves.
Like if agree
Aren't there those articulating rail pieces that would allow you to make larger curves?
Ah, so satisfying when something simple fixes it! The hat looks great, by the way 😆
Amazing video thanks for sharing these solutions
Excelentes consejos! muy bueno! ya lo estoy aplicando para solucionar ese problema con la cocodrilo! saludos!
I love the train Hat!!!! 11:26
The wheel slip is realistic and adds a cool effect when pulling long trains
You're a pretty cool guy Jang, not gonna lie
Nice simple fixes.
I got pointed here after posting a video of my Crocodile juddering through a curves in points and I'm certainly going to try to remove the rubber bands. Thanks.
Thanks Jang!
Very nice! Also nice cap!
Thank you for the tip it really did work
Wow.@JANGBRICK the train is a crocodile I like your nice train😊👍🇵🇭🇵🇭
nobody should be surprised that there's a crack in a reddish brown piece at 9:11
I'm glad this fix worked for you, it looks even better without the rubber bands. Is there footage of you running the modified version on your layout?
Great job jang
Thanks! It really helps me thanks!
I wouldn't consider the powered container car a cheat. It's a very clever trick to make any locomotive remote controlled.
Congrats on wearing the hat.
11:03 It's the JANGineer!!!
Finally got to try the hat :D
I was so heart broke when it wouldn't travel through a 90° turn on my 9v track. I am going to try this whole video. Thank you so much!!!
8:47 I think you can use some 2x2/2x3 plates and bricks with stud on the side in the middle instead of the sides so you don't change the visible bricks, but nice to know that there are solutions to the gab problem and the derailing problem
The hat is on, Jang has done it lads. gg
Finally able to see it in the city
Hey Jang just subscribed to you're other channel!!!
gnajbricks
@@turkeyhnter76 no, that is just a silly imposter
@@devon8419 no jangs the imposter