Thanks for the video, it was informative. One thing, 1/8 rods are bigger/thicker than the 3/32 rods (in your case, the 7018). I'm surprise no one mentioned this.
Kevin, thank you for making the video. Even though I didn't learn anything about how to Select rods for Arc welding, I did learn a few things from the video like what the numbers on the welding rod mean to a limited degree. A quick run down on the coatings on the rod would have been helpful since the coatings or flux on the rod is what made the difference in the welding demonstration. According to you the 7018 was a thicker rod so it welded nicer given the amperage setting which had nothing to do with the rod type or maybe it did, who knows, so that really didn't help the comparison of rod types. There's type, and there's thickness to consider with every rod. So the video proved to be no help with those decisions. The title of your video is, "How to select rods for arc welding" which was what drew me to take the time to watch. I"m glad you finally addressed the title of your video at the very end by telling people to go and look on the internet to find out how to select rods for welding. I was already doing that when I came across your video.
Hi Kevin I am new to welding I'm interested in buying one so I can start welding sheet metal and fix my trucks. What is a decent torch that will be the best for thise kinda welds ?
Have watched 4 other vids so far trying to work out which rod to use and you were the first one I could understand, thank you sir for your most basic approach to teaching you have definitely renewed my enthusiasm for this craft.....for a moment there I thought I was going to have to get a doctorate in chemistry, Thank You
Gold Leaf try 7014 I just picked some up it runs really nice controls easy, restarts easy, good visibility on what's going on, doesn't want to much amps, chips away easy.
I've never used 7014 before. Mind you I use my everlast mig welder for everything recently but time to brush off the rust and put my hand to stick welding again.
Good explanation - I would add that 6011 is a excellent filler rod and superb for a root weld on AC. Works great in the field for dirty rusty steel. Needs a little less amps than a 7014 or 6013 and will give alodt deeper penetration . oh and next size up from 1/8 is 5/32. Cheers and keep the great videos rolling
I have a old arc/ carbon rod welder from Sears.And a large oxy acetylene torch cart set up.The belonged to my grandfather had to do what he needed on his farm equipment. I have gathered all the accessories from cabinets and shelves. Next to library to get a welding book from 40 years ago probably from that small library.I think Im starting out with more equipment than some guys wish they had.But clicked here to check things out. Thanks for video.
I would love to work with this guy. I ran a steel working shop in Afghanistan (with the Navy) for about a year. Awesome to have your own shop, a ton of rod and a bunch of steel working toys. The life!
Hey Kevin, I have been farm welding for about 55 years and I have all 3 of these rods in my shop. Even though I know that 6011 is a good rod and works well for vertical or rusty applications, I don't often use it. Maybe it's my ego but the bead is rough and you have to chip it a lot more. I never like people to see the 6011 welds. The 6013 and 7018 leave a nice bead and slag is fairly easy to remove. I do have trouble getting the 7018 to start more often and I understand it stores poorly. My go to electrode is the 6013 in 1/8 and 5/32 for thicker material. I tend to use the high end of the amp recommendations.
Not to worry Kevin. The only reason I knew the size of the rod is b/c we used 5/32 when I was a welder in the steel mill where I worked. Then some bright foreman started buying 1/8-7018 for our break downs. The 5/32-7016 rod was better all around rod. We got used to the 7018's but, the smaller rod made a difference in the amount of time we need to complete a job. Not all the welding is in the shop under ideal conditions. Thanks for the quick reply. Keep up the good videos.
Hi Kevin! - I've been digging through most of your videos, but I haven't seen you talk about how to handle when the rod gets stuck mid welding. I could be wrong, so I'll keep digging! Definitely love your videos - Clear explanation + a little humor goes a long way!
Nice Video Sir, I am a beginner and your tutorial videos. help me a lot. I am using a transformer type arc welder and making few small car ramps etc Word of advice: Ignore the people who find faults with you and keep going ahead Eagerly waiting for more videos from you. At your age, I am impressed about your interest & knowledge Thanks
Thank you for the words of encouragement! I have gotten a pretty thick skin from doing these videos. Just want to pass on what I learn the hard/fun way!
Thank you very much for the most helpful demonstration, I would like to know the different electrodes for different metals like MS with MS, SS with SS and MS with SS
I always enjoy these videos & understand they are for "newbee" but at the same time presenting only half the info could be detrimental to their welds or at minimum to their learning progression...for example... The 6010-6011 rods are "deep penetration rods" & are not really meant for just dragging, you're supposed to stitch back and forth (this will leave a "stacked dimes look) & should be run on about 85amps (for 1/8 rod). The 7018 is a dragging rod and should be run around 95-130amps...not as deep penetration but very smooth finish. Running these rods on too high or too low an amp setting has a HUGE effect on the quality of the weld and obviously the smaller (1/16) rods need less amps.
gordon davis not only did he say that but he said the 7018 was a bigger rod being a 3/32 when thats smaller than 1/8 and the difference between a ac and dc rod
gordon davis Thank you very much for filling the gaps, as an almost virginal newbie that information matters a lot. Please could you tell me if there are any sites you could recommend that says what rod to use and how to use them?
Ah ha ! Thank you , Kevin ! I knew you made a video on welding rods ! I wish I could learn first hand with you in person ! But this is about as close as I can get ! My hands don't seem to be as steady as yours ! My welds have a little arch or rainbow shape to them ! I will try a little soap stone line to see if that helps ! Thanks again for the great videos ! You have been a great help !
Awesome. Kevin can you tell me why I have so much hassle starting off my weld with an inverter welder please. I am self taught and started off with an oil cooled welder and then bought the inverter thinking that I would improve the weld run. Some suggestions please. Thanks for all your tutorials/demos.
7018 AC (according to the documentation I've read) is also rated for use with DC. I have used 7018AC for years and ran it on DC almost exclusively with excellent results. The only difference is that there is a conductive element in the coating that makes restrike much easier. As most people know when regular 7018 rod cools between welds you need to "scratch" the end a few times to get the flux off before it will conduct and strike properly. Very annoying. So I started buying the AC version of it and continued to use it on DC. I cannot see any difference in the welds from either rod welding them side by side so I'm convinced it doesn't matter which way you run it. I've had people swear that you have to run 7018AC on only AC but I do not believe that anymore. Maybe some brands of rod are that way but everything I've seen says on the box that it will work with DC also. Good luck.
Hey Kevin. I just started watching your videos and I do like your enthusiasm and positive approach. You've got some good advice for the "do-it-yourselfer". One thing I would like to point out, however, is the that the first 2 digits (first three if there's a 5 number designation) on an electrode is the minimum tensile strength of the rod filler metal (in kpsi). That means how much weight it would take to tear apart the filler metal, not how much weight a weld with that filler metal will hold before failing. For example, in a 7018 rod, it will take a minimum of 70 000 lbs of weight to tear apart one square inch of the metal that the rod is composed of. I'm new to welding and just a hobbyist, but I'd hate to see someone be disappointed because their weld didn't hold 60 000 lbs after using a 6010 rod :p
Thanks guys. Kevin, ya even used the welder I have. And Mary, I didn't have to worry about ya teetering on top of a ladder in this one. As always, good, well presented info.
Thank you. I'll be doing arc welding today. MIG welder I used yesterday killed a lot of my wire wasting a lot of money. Kept on tangling the wire in the rolling mechanism.
Nice video!!! What stick you recommend for 1 inch square tubing and 90' degree angular? I want to make a outdoor one burner stove. People use this stove for boil shrimp on a big kettle or to fried big Turkey. The top 17" x 17" angular iron with 17" height legs on square tubing.
Buy yourself some 3/32 and 1/8 7018 rods. A/C welders need special 7018 AC rods. 7018 rods are the workhorse of the industry. Most welders reach for them first. They do almost everything. Read up on it. Practice, practice, practice. Smaller rod (3/32) do lighter materials, but can do thicker metal too with more passes. 1/8 (a bit bigger rod) does heavier stuff. There are bigger and smaller rods, but you won't need them. You won't be welding razor blades or bridges. Amperage settings for all rods are available on line, in books. Often that info is on the box. After a little practice with both sizes you'll know which size rod to reach for and how to set the welder. Pipe thickness ? Thin wall pipe (light tubing)= 3/32 thicker stuff= 1/8 6013 (low penetration) is good for thinner sheet metals. Commonly used on cheap a/c buzz boxes and sometimes called the farmers rod. It can be used on many things, but usually only in a pinch. You might need 6011 the odd time for dirty, painted, or rusty stuff. But working with 6011 sucks... lotsa sparks and bad looking welds.
At 65 it has been a LONG time sense I did any welding with a buzz box similar to the Lincoln in the video.. I bought one of those Chinese made 110 volt 160 Amp stick welders off the internet, it came with some Chinese rod with weird numbers 1/8" an worked well at about 120 amps, acted similar to 7018.. When I went to try 1/8" 6013 with welder wide open at 160 amps I could not maintain an arc.. So I bought some 6011 at 3/32 and hope that solves the problem, if I want to weld thick, turn it up?
Hi Kevin, Thanks for taking the time to make these vid's, i been welding with square tube steel and no matter what current i have my stick welder on i keep burning holes, is this because of wrong sticks or what? "i don't think its time as sometimes it will just burn through soon as i start. The joins i make are cut at 45 and used the welder to join. I tried to fill in the holes but sometimes its ok other times i make it worse. not been welding long...." a few weeks"
I'm new to welding, just need to learn so I can do some small repair jobs on the farm. What is the best way to weld a 3/4" pipe nipple to a flat steel surface? The nipple would be lying flat on its side NOT standing on end, so your weld is somewhat down in a valley.Also, what is a good way to check to see if what your welder is set on is actually what its putting out at the stinger? My second hand machine is old and I'd like to verify if say 90 amps on the dial is actually what I'm working with. Many thanks!Bob R
For that kind of welding I would reach for the mig... quick and easy.. Far as checking the output of a machine I guess you could try a clamp on amp meter on the cable and see what you get.. Never tried myself.. Just turn it up and get to work..
Hi Kevin, i am learning stick welding. I bought some BI 2x2 3mm tubular, what rod do you think is best to use? And at what amperage? I'm still very confused with which rod to use. I'm going to make a squat rack for my son. Thanks for the informative video btw!
I would go with 7018. Either 3/32 or 1/16th if you can find it.. Amps ranges for the two different sizes are right on the box. Just have to play with some scrap and find the right set up for you and your machine.
Which is the best rod for welding stainless 11ga. and thicker with a Lincoln ac 225 trusty tombstone? I can't find the answer anywhere. I thought of you. I want to build a wood fired pizza oven. Maybe a pipeliners grill from stainless. Thanks for all the great videos. I been welding for over 30 years and still learning. And still not too proud to go ask somebody if me and Mr. Graves can't figure it out. God bless and work safe brother. 😃
In my personal opinion the two rods a person should always have on hand are E6011 and E6013. They are both great for fixing things. E6011 has deep penetration and flat or concave beads, it is for use with DCEP and AC current and has a cellulose potassium coating. E6013 has shallow penetration and convex beads, is designed for DCEP, DCEN, and AC current, and has a titania potassium coating. E6011 is best on thicker materials, and E6013 is great for thinner materials. The welds won't be very pretty (compared to other rods), but they make for strong welds and are great for welding a large variety of materials.
alright thanks for the info kevin i was also wanting to know if there is any limit to how thick of metal you could weld with an oxyacetylene torch. thanks
Enjoy your videos. I live in Thailand where the house power is 220 volts, am new to welding and want to buy a cheap mini welder and need to know what amp to buy 200 amp. 400 amp, 600 amp.
Hi.... Im the guy at the beginning of your video.... The one just starting out 🤣 Thanks for the info. now I know what all these rods are that I got with the welder.... Thanks ! Can I just ask. some rods are thicker than others. would the thinner rods be for welding thinner metals ? Thanks in advance if you reply....Not sure if you still run the channel... 🙏👊
That's what I would suggest. You will have to more preparation on the thicker joints. Bevel the edges and make multiple passes. Or just get a bigger machine.
Thanks for the excellent video. I have watched many of yours and decided to subscribe so I don't miss out on anything. I have one of those "tombstone" welders and still have to revert to it when the little mig won't do it, like 1/4" and above. I generally end up using to much amperage because I have such trouble starting and holding an arc. I would like to see more buzz box videos.
Hello Kevin. i created a video reponse so you can see the metal i want to weld. This video was made for another reason but it works to show the front end of the car i want to weld. thanks.
Hi Kevin. Good demonstration, but I think you could have explained the difference between the three electrodes ( sorry that's what I was taught to call them ) and under what conditions one would be chosen over another. This would help to explain the resulting differences that you've demonstrated. The 6011 is quite different to the 6013, which is different again to the 7018, in characteristics machine settings and application of use. Sorry if this sounds a little critical, I just feel that this may be of benefit to viewers that may be new to welding.
I love welding. I wish I could still do it. I can't arc weld now that I have a defibrillator implanted. One of my buddies was trying to get me to sign up for the pipefitters' apprenticeship some years ago. I wish I'd done it.
Off the top of my head I would say your amps are too low. Try turning it up a notch. The other thing to try is instead of placing the rod at the start point like you are touching it with your finger , try scratching it along like you are picking at a scab. That may give you an easier start. What size rod are you using?
How long can you expect welding rods to last on the shelf? Is there a difference in shelf life comparing these different rods? Do you keep any in the cooler to prolong life? I always struggled with low hydrogen 7018, mainly because it was harder to start and it seemed I needed more current. Does it help to do 7018 using a DC technique?
Keeping in mind that I'm self-taught and not certified I would have to say try 6013 3/32 inch. But if I was going to do this job I would use tig or mig instead. Make sure you really understand what you are doing here. The last thing you need to happen is a weld breaks while you are flying along with your butt 3 inches off the ground.
+Jeffrey Beyer You can use welding calculators on the web to help you with that. I use the miller website for their calculator (even though I own Everlast welders). Their calculators are still applicable.
6013 is for sheet metal only, but it's still cheaper than using fluxed-core or MIG. I happened to use one with my cheap AC stick welder at the mininum amps (50) that I have and I find 1/16 mild steel easier to weld than 25 gauge mild steel from a paint can, I think? on my rusted bbq grill.
I wouldn't say that. I've used 6013 to build 2 trailers, 1 was build in 1992 it's titled and certified for 12k pound capacity. I built a 7k pound capacity trailer in 2015 and it's titled and certified and have not had a problem with them. I only use 1/4 inch rod and always have since 1990 when I was taught how to weld.
Sorry, but do you weld the 2nd and 3rd rods going forward instead of dragging the puddle..? it is not that welds came out bad at all, but it is a kind of funny technique. Good video, thanks!
Great vid Kevin and Marry, I have always been put off using my arc welder as I didn't understand the use for all the different rods it came with and so it has sat in it's box since the day I bought it; well no more! I'm going to dig that puppy out tomorrow :) I would prefer to use MIG or TIG but will an arc welder be okay for welding stainless steel pipe and plate? As I would like to make a strut tower bar for my old 3-series.
i need your help buddy..i have an old Lincon electric arc welder ( ac 225 amps) model AC 225-S..can i use this machine to weld aluminum? and if i,can what aluminum rods do you recommend? its to weld 1/4in thick aluminum on an outboard motor?..great video i really appricate ur help pal.
I'm new to this as well, so this was a great question. The thing that I've learned was that when you use a different rod it's because of the penetration
Not totally, in fact penetration is probably one of the secondary factors in electrode selection. Electrodes are more often chosen based on their mechanical properties, such as yield strength, tensile strength, impact toughness and degree of hydrogen in the weld metal as well as their positional capabilities and current type. Cellulose electrodes have the advantage of a minimal slag that is easily removed. This can be an advantage with multi pass butt joints, rutile electrodes are good all round performers and have much smoother arc characteristics and better bead appearance. Low hydrogen electrodes are the ones you want when the weld is critical. They are much tougher and stronger than either rutile or cellulose. It is rare to find DC only electrodes today, but most low hydrogen electrodes require a minimum 70V OCV when used on AC current. Most older handyman buzz box welders were 45-50V OCV, so you need to find a twin coated low hydrogen electrode to run with them.
I have an arc welder and I am trying to weld some thin metal to the bottom sills on my car to pass my MOT, the metal is approx. 1mm but I have no idea what electrode I should be using, Ive tried welding it and its just burnt holes straight through the metal, I THEN tried spot welding by just brushing past the metal but its doing the same or just does nothing atall. Would you have any idea what rod I mil(mm) and type of rod I need? I know ideally I should have a mig welder but I cant afford 1 at the moment Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. Regards Dale
so the flux is differant on the 1st 2 and the the 3rd one is 1/16 larger on the o.d.and different flux amps could have been 90,105,and 105 are 6011,and 6013 the same alloy on the filler metal or just. the same tensil strength I was also wondering if it's possible to put old rods I got a deal on in some heat and dry them out and make them good how long what temp would you say?or are they just scrap? thanks for all your help? brad
I believe the ideal temp is like 250 degrees I could be wrong. Not all rods should be heated and dried 7018 should I think 6010 shouldn't not 100 percent sure
I never get as much penetration for welding with a 6013, but they weld beautifully. I prefer the 6011 rod, they’re not as pretty but it creates a lot stronger weld for me.
Kevin Caron, Artist you’re welcome, I always try to find these kind of videos in my free time to try and learn a little bit more each day about welding, I have a passion for it
I watch your videos but in this case you did not explain anything. 6011 = deep penetration, will weld through rust and crud always makes a ugly weld. 6013 = thin metal (sheet metal) rod, shallow penetration. 7018 = the best all around rod but the metal must be clean clean .
A 6011 can make a decent looking weld using the proper technique, which is a whip and pause motion. A 6013 is primarily a sheet metal rod. Low penetration, requires no manipulation of the rod, and can run a lower amperage. A 7018 requires more amperage but still can be run with no rod manipulation if preferred.
Quartzsite Business 6013 and 7018 are cappers or fillers mainly. Not meant for full joint penetration. 6013 is great on sheet metal like you say but is also good on just capping stuff to make a pretty finished bead. 7018 is a tricky rod for positions out of 1 or 2 because of slag inclusions. But youre definitly right.
How do you know what size rod to use for a single pass or multiple passes on certain thickness? Say 1/8” vs 1/4”, 3/16” and 3/8” mild steel. Assume 7018 rod
I know that for cast iron you use Ni-99 or Ni-55 rods, but I wonder if a stainless steel smaw rod can be used for cast iron, too. If mig can weld cast iron with a stainless steel filler, why can't smaw?
I enjoyed this lesson very much! Thanks for a beginners reminder of this most crucial info. And why is it bad to hammer of the slag? If your weld was cooled,then if it isn't safe for a hammer,then is it really welded all that good? I subscribed-and look forward to more of your great videos.I bought an ESAB THB295UM at a yard sale.Looks hardly used.But i know practically nothing,and am in mental sponge mode at the moment.cheers from Oregon!
The light!! The smoke just gives you black stuff in your nose. If you get exposed to a bad enough case of arc eye you could lose your sight in that eye. Not something to take a chance with.
Quick question...I'm starting to weld a metal/aluminum horse trailer, using a Dayton 100 amp ac welder, rod: 7018 ac, when i'm placing to the rod close to the metal it gets stuck rather than go straight to welding, iv'e been struggling with this problem over and over again and cant seem to get a clean weld just like the ones I just saw on your video. Do you have some tips for me?
Thanks for the video, it was informative.
One thing, 1/8 rods are bigger/thicker than the 3/32 rods (in your case, the 7018). I'm surprise no one mentioned this.
He wanted to say 5/32
Kevin, thank you for making the video. Even though I didn't learn anything about how to Select rods for Arc welding, I did learn a few things from the video like what the numbers on the welding rod mean to a limited degree. A quick run down on the coatings on the rod would have been helpful since the coatings or flux on the rod is what made the difference in the welding demonstration. According to you the 7018 was a thicker rod so it welded nicer given the amperage setting which had nothing to do with the rod type or maybe it did, who knows, so that really didn't help the comparison of rod types. There's type, and there's thickness to consider with every rod. So the video proved to be no help with those decisions.
The title of your video is, "How to select rods for arc welding" which was what drew me to take the time to watch. I"m glad you finally addressed the title of your video at the very end by telling people to go and look on the internet to find out how to select rods for welding. I was already doing that when I came across your video.
Teachers like this are the best - explain it nice and simple so everyone can understand
Hi Kevin I am new to welding I'm interested in buying one so I can start welding sheet metal and fix my trucks. What is a decent torch that will be the best for thise kinda welds ?
Have watched 4 other vids so far trying to work out which rod to use and you were the first one I could understand, thank you sir for your most basic approach to teaching you have definitely renewed my enthusiasm for this craft.....for a moment there I thought I was going to have to get a doctorate in chemistry, Thank You
Gold Leaf try 7014 I just picked some up it runs really nice controls easy, restarts easy, good visibility on what's going on, doesn't want to much amps, chips away easy.
I've never used 7014 before. Mind you I use my everlast mig welder for everything recently but time to brush off the rust and put my hand to stick welding again.
Thanks for stopping by..
Good explanation - I would add that 6011 is a excellent filler rod and superb for a root weld on AC. Works great in the field for dirty rusty steel. Needs a little less amps than a 7014 or 6013 and will give alodt deeper penetration . oh and next size up from 1/8 is 5/32. Cheers and keep the great videos rolling
I have a old arc/ carbon rod welder from Sears.And a large oxy acetylene torch cart set up.The belonged to my grandfather had to do what he needed on his farm equipment.
I have gathered all the accessories from cabinets and shelves.
Next to library to get a welding book from 40 years ago probably from that small library.I think Im starting out with more equipment than some guys wish they had.But clicked here to check things out.
Thanks for video.
Thank you Kevin. I learned an incredible amount in such a short period of time.
Thanks for watching!
Well done, you have given me a insight to rod types and have pointed me in the right direction if I want to know more.
Thanks for watching and posting!
I would love to work with this guy. I ran a steel working shop in Afghanistan (with the Navy) for about a year. Awesome to have your own shop, a ton of rod and a bunch of steel working toys. The life!
Nice job. Good no-nonsense explanation from a guy who clearly knows what he's talking about.
Thanks!
Hey Kevin. That's one of your best welding videos. But all of your films are great. This is very helpful. Thanks for the advice!
You deserve the like , the lesson is short and clear.
Thank you! And thanks for watching!
Nice informative video, as usual. Good seeing the Lincoln tombstone being used and the differences in the rods.
Hey Kevin, I have been farm welding for about 55 years and I have all 3 of these rods in my shop. Even though I know that 6011 is a good rod and works well for vertical or rusty applications, I don't often use it. Maybe it's my ego but the bead is rough and you have to chip it a lot more. I never like people to see the 6011 welds. The 6013 and 7018 leave a nice bead and slag is fairly easy to remove. I do have trouble getting the 7018 to start more often and I understand it stores poorly. My go to electrode is the 6013 in 1/8 and 5/32 for thicker material. I tend to use the high end of the amp recommendations.
Seems like you have it figured out for you! Thanks for watching and posting.
Need more info. to help. How thick is the metal? What are the settings on the welder? What is the diameter of the rod? What rod are you trying to use?
You're an incredibly nice guy and a good teacher.
Not to worry Kevin. The only reason I knew the size of the rod is b/c we used 5/32 when I was a welder in the steel mill where I worked. Then some bright foreman started buying 1/8-7018 for our break downs. The 5/32-7016 rod was better all around rod. We got used to the 7018's but, the smaller rod made a difference in the amount of time we need to complete a job. Not all the welding is in the shop under ideal conditions. Thanks for the quick reply. Keep up the good videos.
Hi Kevin! - I've been digging through most of your videos, but I haven't seen you talk about how to handle when the rod gets stuck mid welding. I could be wrong, so I'll keep digging!
Definitely love your videos - Clear explanation + a little humor goes a long way!
Thanks for the compliment Kevin.
I don't do it for a living but ask a thousand and one questions when i head to gasweld for rods and other gear ;)
You should be able to use this machine.
I would recommend ER4043 or ER5356 depending on which alloy you are working with.
Much better said than my rambling.
You sound like you do this for a living.
Thank you for adding your expertise.
Thanks for the video Kevin. I am learning and could use all of the help I can get using my everlast stick welder.
Thanks for watching and posting Joseph!
Glad I can help George.
Welcome aboard.
Great video!! I have the exact same welder. I was wondering what amperage and rod i should use to weld to pieces of the front end of my car.
Nice Video Sir, I am a beginner and your tutorial videos. help me a lot.
I am using a transformer type arc welder and making few small car ramps etc
Word of advice: Ignore the people who find faults with you and keep going ahead
Eagerly waiting for more videos from you.
At your age, I am impressed about your interest & knowledge
Thanks
Thank you for the words of encouragement! I have gotten a pretty thick skin from doing these videos. Just want to pass on what I learn the hard/fun way!
Thank you very much for the most helpful demonstration, I would like to know the different electrodes for different metals like MS with MS, SS with SS and MS with SS
@RouteZeroDesign Yes it will. Check with your local welding store for some stainless rod.
I always enjoy these videos & understand they are for "newbee" but at the same time presenting only half the info could be detrimental to their welds or at minimum to their learning progression...for example...
The 6010-6011 rods are "deep penetration rods" & are not really meant for just dragging, you're supposed to stitch back and forth (this will leave a "stacked dimes look) & should be run on about 85amps (for 1/8 rod).
The 7018 is a dragging rod and should be run around 95-130amps...not as deep penetration but very smooth finish.
Running these rods on too high or too low an amp setting has a HUGE effect on the quality of the weld and obviously the smaller (1/16) rods need less amps.
gordon davis just what i covered in my comment. Glad im not the only one who noticed that stuf.
gordon davis not only did he say that but he said the 7018 was a bigger rod being a 3/32 when thats smaller than 1/8 and the difference between a ac and dc rod
gordon davis Thank you very much for filling the gaps, as an almost virginal newbie that information matters a lot. Please could you tell me if there are any sites you could recommend that says what rod to use and how to use them?
Ah ha ! Thank you , Kevin ! I knew you made a video on welding rods ! I wish I could learn first hand with you in person ! But this is about as close as I can get ! My hands don't seem to be as steady as yours ! My welds have a little arch or rainbow shape to them ! I will try a little soap stone line to see if that helps ! Thanks again for the great videos ! You have been a great help !
Nice, simple, to the point video. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Awesome. Kevin can you tell me why I have so much hassle starting off my weld with an inverter welder please. I am self taught and started off with an oil cooled welder and then bought the inverter thinking that I would improve the weld run. Some suggestions please. Thanks for all your tutorials/demos.
7018 AC (according to the documentation I've read) is also rated for use with DC. I have used 7018AC for years and ran it on DC almost exclusively with excellent results.
The only difference is that there is a conductive element in the coating that makes restrike much easier. As most people know when regular 7018 rod cools between welds you need to "scratch" the end a few times to get the flux off before it will conduct and strike properly. Very annoying. So I started buying the AC version of it and continued to use it on DC. I cannot see any difference in the welds from either rod welding them side by side so I'm convinced it doesn't matter which way you run it. I've had people swear that you have to run 7018AC on only AC but I do not believe that anymore. Maybe some brands of rod are that way but everything I've seen says on the box that it will work with DC also. Good luck.
I hate that part!
Hey Kevin. I just started watching your videos and I do like your enthusiasm and positive approach. You've got some good advice for the "do-it-yourselfer". One thing I would like to point out, however, is the that the first 2 digits (first three if there's a 5 number designation) on an electrode is the minimum tensile strength of the rod filler metal (in kpsi). That means how much weight it would take to tear apart the filler metal, not how much weight a weld with that filler metal will hold before failing. For example, in a 7018 rod, it will take a minimum of 70 000 lbs of weight to tear apart one square inch of the metal that the rod is composed of. I'm new to welding and just a hobbyist, but I'd hate to see someone be disappointed because their weld didn't hold 60 000 lbs after using a 6010 rod :p
True, (hanging my head in shame) , That machine has done a lot of work and more than earned it's time and place in this shop..
Thanks guys. Kevin, ya even used the welder I have. And Mary, I didn't have to worry about ya teetering on top of a ladder in this one. As always, good, well presented info.
Need a little more info for this one. What metal, how thick, what's it for??
@robotmotor You are welcome my friend.
stop by when you get the chance. We update about once a week..
Thank you. I'll be doing arc welding today. MIG welder I used yesterday killed a lot of my wire wasting a lot of money. Kept on tangling the wire in the rolling mechanism.
Nice video!!!
What stick you recommend for 1 inch square tubing and 90' degree angular? I want to make a outdoor one burner stove. People use this stove for boil shrimp on a big kettle or to fried big Turkey. The top 17" x 17" angular iron with 17" height legs on square tubing.
big fan of 7018. just get the right diameter for your job..
Buy yourself some 3/32 and 1/8 7018 rods. A/C welders need special 7018 AC rods. 7018 rods are the workhorse of the industry. Most welders reach for them first. They do almost everything. Read up on it. Practice, practice, practice. Smaller rod (3/32) do lighter materials, but can do thicker metal too with more passes. 1/8 (a bit bigger rod) does heavier stuff. There are bigger and smaller rods, but you won't need them. You won't be welding razor blades or bridges. Amperage settings for all rods are available on line, in books. Often that info is on the box. After a little practice with both sizes you'll know which size rod to reach for and how to set the welder. Pipe thickness ? Thin wall pipe (light tubing)= 3/32 thicker stuff= 1/8
6013 (low penetration) is good for thinner sheet metals. Commonly used on cheap a/c buzz boxes and sometimes called the farmers rod. It can be used on many things, but usually only in a pinch.
You might need 6011 the odd time for dirty, painted, or rusty stuff. But working with 6011 sucks... lotsa sparks and bad looking welds.
At 65 it has been a LONG time sense I did any welding with a buzz box similar to the Lincoln in the video.. I bought one of those Chinese made 110 volt 160 Amp stick welders off the internet, it came with some Chinese rod with weird numbers 1/8" an worked well at about 120 amps, acted similar to 7018.. When I went to try 1/8" 6013 with welder wide open at 160 amps I could not maintain an arc.. So I bought some 6011 at 3/32 and hope that solves the problem, if I want to weld thick, turn it up?
You explained everything in a way an old man like me can understand. Thanks for the lessions.
Hi Kevin, Thanks for taking the time to make these vid's, i been welding with square tube steel and no matter what current i have my stick welder on i keep burning holes, is this because of wrong sticks or what? "i don't think its time as sometimes it will just burn through soon as i start. The joins i make are cut at 45 and used the welder to join.
I tried to fill in the holes but sometimes its ok other times i make it worse.
not been welding long...." a few weeks"
I love welding 6011 and 7014 with my everlast welder. I've tried 6013 but never really liked using them.
I'm new to welding, just need to learn so I can do some small repair jobs on the farm. What is the best way to weld a 3/4" pipe nipple to a flat steel surface? The nipple would be lying flat on its side NOT standing on end, so your weld is somewhat down in a valley.Also, what is a good way to check to see if what your welder is set on is actually what its putting out at the stinger? My second hand machine is old and I'd like to verify if say 90 amps on the dial is actually what I'm working with. Many thanks!Bob R
For that kind of welding I would reach for the mig... quick and easy.. Far as checking the output of a machine I guess you could try a clamp on amp meter on the cable and see what you get.. Never tried myself.. Just turn it up and get to work..
Re turning down the current at 4:40 HOw do you get 100 amps or 95 amps from your Lincoln AC225? You can do 90 or 105. or is your welder different?
Engaging mouth with connecting brain first?!?!?
My bad! Good catch!
3/32" is smaller than 1/8"
I think he meant 5/32 perhaps.
There's no way a 5/32 would have run at 105 amps
Hi Kevin, i am learning stick welding. I bought some BI 2x2 3mm tubular, what rod do you think is best to use? And at what amperage? I'm still very confused with which rod to use. I'm going to make a squat rack for my son.
Thanks for the informative video btw!
I would go with 7018. Either 3/32 or 1/16th if you can find it.. Amps ranges for the two different sizes are right on the box. Just have to play with some scrap and find the right set up for you and your machine.
Hi kev, nice video. Nicely explained for us all. Keep arcing. Best regards
Thanks for watching!
Which is the best rod for welding stainless 11ga. and thicker with a Lincoln ac 225 trusty tombstone? I can't find the answer anywhere. I thought of you. I want to build a wood fired pizza oven. Maybe a pipeliners grill from stainless. Thanks for all the great videos. I been welding for over 30 years and still learning. And still not too proud to go ask somebody if me and Mr. Graves can't figure it out. God bless and work safe brother. 😃
I like E309L-16 but I don't do stick stainless.
In my personal opinion the two rods a person should always have on hand are E6011 and E6013. They are both great for fixing things. E6011 has deep penetration and flat or concave beads, it is for use with DCEP and AC current and has a cellulose potassium coating. E6013 has shallow penetration and convex beads, is designed for DCEP, DCEN, and AC current, and has a titania potassium coating. E6011 is best on thicker materials, and E6013 is great for thinner materials. The welds won't be very pretty (compared to other rods), but they make for strong welds and are great for welding a large variety of materials.
alright thanks for the info kevin
i was also wanting to know if there is any limit to how thick of metal you could weld with an oxyacetylene torch.
thanks
I like 6011 or 6013 myself. Haven't really had a chance to use anything else.
You should explain the thickness of the mild steel or whatever metal is used, and what size rod to burn that thickness
Enjoy your videos. I live in Thailand where the house power is 220 volts, am new to welding and want to buy a cheap mini welder and need to know what amp to buy 200 amp. 400 amp, 600 amp.
I would look in the 200 to 250 range to start.
@@KevincaronSculpture I have the chance to buy a 600 amp Zard machine from thai man in village. Will this be to much machine.
here you go , simple and to the point like that , TY
Hi.... Im the guy at the beginning of your video.... The one just starting out 🤣
Thanks for the info. now I know what all these rods are that I got with the welder.... Thanks !
Can I just ask. some rods are thicker than others. would the thinner rods be for welding thinner metals ? Thanks in advance if you reply....Not sure if you still run the channel...
🙏👊
Still here!! Yes, the thinner rod would be used for thinner metals. Or just for lower amps. Welcome to the club!
Nice one! I really appreciate the time you put into the video really helps me a lot thank you and keep up the great work.
Thanks, will do! And thank you for watching and posting.
That's what I would suggest. You will have to more preparation on the thicker joints. Bevel the edges and make multiple passes.
Or just get a bigger machine.
Thanks for the excellent video. I have watched many of yours and decided to subscribe so I don't miss out on anything. I have one of those "tombstone" welders and still have to revert to it when the little mig won't do it, like 1/4" and above. I generally end up using to much amperage because I have such trouble starting and holding an arc.
I would like to see more buzz box videos.
Hello Kevin. i created a video reponse so you can see the metal i want to weld. This video was made for another reason but it works to show the front end of the car i want to weld. thanks.
Hi Kevin. Good demonstration, but I think you could have explained the difference between the three electrodes ( sorry that's what I was taught to call them ) and under what conditions one would be chosen over another. This would help to explain the resulting differences that you've demonstrated.
The 6011 is quite different to the 6013, which is different again to the 7018, in characteristics machine settings and application of use.
Sorry if this sounds a little critical, I just feel that this may be of benefit to viewers that may be new to welding.
Am looking for the upoer jacket part you are wearing in this video. I have the apron, having difficulty finding a short jacket like you have.
They arnt that hard to find.
I love welding. I wish I could still do it. I can't arc weld now that I have a defibrillator implanted. One of my buddies was trying to get me to sign up for the pipefitters' apprenticeship some years ago. I wish I'd done it.
No reason you can't oxy/act weld.
Off the top of my head I would say your amps are too low. Try turning it up a notch. The other thing to try is instead of placing the rod at the start point like you are touching it with your finger , try scratching it along like you are picking at a scab. That may give you an easier start.
What size rod are you using?
How long can you expect welding rods to last on the shelf? Is there a difference in shelf life comparing these different rods? Do you keep any in the cooler to prolong life? I always struggled with low hydrogen 7018, mainly because it was harder to start and it seemed I needed more current. Does it help to do 7018 using a DC technique?
Now why didn't I think of that!?!?!
Great tip!
Thanks for posting..
Thank you very much for the helpful and clear demonistration.
Keeping in mind that I'm self-taught and not certified I would have to say try 6013 3/32 inch. But if I was going to do this job I would use tig or mig instead. Make sure you really understand what you are doing here. The last thing you need to happen is a weld breaks while you are flying along with your butt 3 inches off the ground.
The reason you should drag the chipping hammer across the slag is so you don't get chip marks in the weld that you then have to grind out.
Is there a chart for selecting rod size/type, and amps per metal thickness? A chart like that sould help a lot for a beginner like me.
+Jeffrey Beyer You can use welding calculators on the web to help you with that. I use the miller website for their calculator (even though I own Everlast welders). Their calculators are still applicable.
+Jeffrey Beyer
There is an app for that!! Like Carter said,,,
+Kevin Caron, Artist all the apps I've seen sre not very helpful for rod thickness/heat for metal thickness for stick welding
6013 is for sheet metal only, but it's still cheaper than using fluxed-core or MIG. I happened to use one with my cheap AC stick welder at the mininum amps (50) that I have and I find 1/16 mild steel easier to weld than 25 gauge mild steel from a paint can, I think? on my rusted bbq grill.
I wouldn't say that. I've used 6013 to build 2 trailers, 1 was build in 1992 it's titled and certified for 12k pound capacity. I built a 7k pound capacity trailer in 2015 and it's titled and certified and have not had a problem with them. I only use 1/4 inch rod and always have since 1990 when I was taught how to weld.
Sorry, but do you weld the 2nd and 3rd rods going forward instead of dragging the puddle..? it is not that welds came out bad at all, but it is a kind of funny technique. Good video, thanks!
Nope, just changed direction. Good eyes though!
right to left instead of left to right.
Great vid Kevin and Marry, I have always been put off using my arc welder as I didn't understand the use for all the different rods it came with and so it has sat in it's box since the day I bought it; well no more! I'm going to dig that puppy out tomorrow :)
I would prefer to use MIG or TIG but will an arc welder be okay for welding stainless steel pipe and plate? As I would like to make a strut tower bar for my old 3-series.
Thanks for a good explanation on welding rods 7018 looks really good for industrial use and fabrication... appreciate alot..God Bless
I will have to do some research for this one... but thanks for the idea....
Thanks. Great quick info. I'm just starting, messing around, now I know what each number stands for. Thanks again, Guam U.S.A.
i need your help buddy..i have an old Lincon electric arc welder ( ac 225 amps) model AC 225-S..can i use this machine to weld aluminum? and if i,can what aluminum rods do you recommend? its to weld 1/4in thick aluminum on an outboard motor?..great video i really appricate ur help pal.
I'm new to this as well, so this was a great question. The thing that I've learned was that when you use a different rod it's because of the penetration
Not totally, in fact penetration is probably one of the secondary factors in electrode selection. Electrodes are more often chosen based on their mechanical properties, such as yield strength, tensile strength, impact toughness and degree of hydrogen in the weld metal as well as their positional capabilities and current type. Cellulose electrodes have the advantage of a minimal slag that is easily removed. This can be an advantage with multi pass butt joints, rutile electrodes are good all round performers and have much smoother arc characteristics and better bead appearance. Low hydrogen electrodes are the ones you want when the weld is critical. They are much tougher and stronger than either rutile or cellulose. It is rare to find DC only electrodes today, but most low hydrogen electrodes require a minimum 70V OCV when used on AC current. Most older handyman buzz box welders were 45-50V OCV, so you need to find a twin coated low hydrogen electrode to run with them.
Thanks, still figuring out how all this works...
Thank you my tig and mig are spectacular my stick is good but don't know much about the rods cheers dude
No problem 👍
@@KevincaronSculpture feel free to check out my Instagram Willywelds_99
I have an arc welder and I am trying to weld some thin metal to the bottom sills on my car to pass my MOT, the metal is approx. 1mm but I have no idea what electrode I should be using, Ive tried welding it and its just burnt holes straight through the metal, I THEN tried spot welding by just brushing past the metal but its doing the same or just does nothing atall. Would you have any idea what rod I mil(mm) and type of rod I need?
I know ideally I should have a mig welder but I cant afford 1 at the moment
Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
Regards
Dale
To tell the truth Dale I suck at stick welding. Without being there to see what you have I really couldn't offer a guess.
Thanks Kevin, very helpful. keep-up the good work.
Helped massively, brilliant video! Thank you
Glad it helped!
so the flux is differant on the 1st 2 and the the 3rd one is 1/16 larger on the o.d.and different flux
amps could have been 90,105,and 105
are 6011,and 6013 the same alloy on the filler metal or just. the same tensil strength
I was also wondering if it's possible to put old rods I got a deal on in some heat and dry them out and make them good
how long what temp would you say?or are they just scrap?
thanks for all your help?
brad
Toss them in the oven or on the bbq on low for an hour or so.. Will dry them out for sure.. "Should" be okay to use.
I believe the ideal temp is like 250 degrees I could be wrong. Not all rods should be heated and dried
7018 should I think 6010 shouldn't not 100 percent sure
what was that pen/pencil thing you were using? another great video by the way
great, clear instructions and demos...
Thanks for watching.
ok thanks for the info again kevin i might actually be getting a lincoln electric 225 whats your input on this welder
thanks
7018 my favorite. Dope video
I never get as much penetration for welding with a 6013, but they weld beautifully. I prefer the 6011 rod, they’re not as pretty but it creates a lot stronger weld for me.
Cool, thanks for watching.
Kevin Caron, Artist you’re welcome, I always try to find these kind of videos in my free time to try and learn a little bit more each day about welding, I have a passion for it
I watch your videos but in this case you did not explain anything.
6011 = deep penetration, will weld through rust and crud always makes a ugly weld.
6013 = thin metal (sheet metal) rod, shallow penetration.
7018 = the best all around rod but the metal must be clean clean .
Thanks for posting. I learned something also!
A 6011 can make a decent looking weld using the proper technique, which is a whip and pause motion. A 6013 is primarily a sheet metal rod. Low penetration, requires no manipulation of the rod, and can run a lower amperage. A 7018 requires more amperage but still can be run with no rod manipulation if preferred.
I want to try out some jet electrodes with my everlast welder but I don't want to buy a big box.
Quartzsite Business 6013 and 7018 are cappers or fillers mainly. Not meant for full joint penetration. 6013 is great on sheet metal like you say but is also good on just capping stuff to make a pretty finished bead. 7018 is a tricky rod for positions out of 1 or 2 because of slag inclusions. But youre definitly right.
How do you know what size rod to use for a single pass or multiple passes on certain thickness? Say 1/8” vs 1/4”, 3/16” and 3/8” mild steel. Assume 7018 rod
I know that for cast iron you use Ni-99 or Ni-55 rods, but I wonder if a stainless steel smaw rod can be used for cast iron, too. If mig can weld cast iron with a stainless steel filler, why can't smaw?
@MontySprings Cool!! Thanks for the tip.
Thanks Kevin! You're the best.
at last a proper explanation ! thank you !
Thanks for watching and posting.
i agree. he is a nice guy, and a good teacher. thanks
I enjoyed this lesson very much! Thanks for a beginners reminder of this most crucial info. And why is it bad to hammer of the slag? If your weld was cooled,then if it isn't safe for a hammer,then is it really welded all that good? I subscribed-and look forward to more of your great videos.I bought an ESAB THB295UM at a yard sale.Looks hardly used.But i know practically nothing,and am in mental sponge mode at the moment.cheers from Oregon!
What causes arc eye? Is it the light or the smoke? Are there other side effects other than arc eye?
The light!! The smoke just gives you black stuff in your nose. If you get exposed to a bad enough case of arc eye you could lose your sight in that eye. Not something to take a chance with.
@@KevincaronSculpture thank you so much...very helpful
Dear Sir, I need to weld AISI 4130 pipes. Could you suggest me which type should I prefer ?
Sorry but I am not up on pipe welding..
Thanks for your kind response
Quick question...I'm starting to weld a metal/aluminum horse trailer, using a Dayton 100 amp ac welder, rod: 7018 ac, when i'm placing to the rod close to the metal it gets stuck rather than go straight to welding, iv'e been struggling with this problem over and over again and cant seem to get a clean weld just like the ones I just saw on your video. Do you have some tips for me?