Cool build 😎 I have an unusual affection for classic GT's. I scour UA-cam for videos related to GT restorations pretty regularly. It's bike pron. I just acquired a '98 Zaskar LE and have owned a '97 Richochet for a few years now. LOVE that people are rediscovering how exciting these bikes were when they were new, and putting them back on the trails(and roads)!
True. Over the years I have developed more or less an idea of the resistance that im looking for when tightening. Human torque wrench if you will. I have found that anything less with square taper and there is a tendency to loosen with all the force and vibration. Especially if the cranks are a poor fit caused by bad machining/production.
I love this build. My Palomar that I've had since new from around 1998(?) has gone through many different incarnations, including a single speed gravel bike and even one with drop bars - which didn't last long. Now it has 27.5 mtb wheels, a rigid carbon fork and disc brakes - for stopping power. Also, back to flat bar. I have the same tyres, Panaracer Gravel King. Love them. It's an awesome bike to ride and handles so well in any conditions. Will probably never sell it. It's nice to see what other people do with them.
@@steveraleigh100 I have a late 90's taquesta that has become my main ride over the summer. Converted it to a 1X with friction tjumbshifter shifter, wide bars, and front rack. Super practical for where I live.
@@TheUndeadMechanic I like the 90's MTBs. As you say, they are versatile. I found you can fit 700c road rims as well as 27'5 MTB rims. I have the one GT and a few road bikes. A 1976 Raleigh and 2 steel Italian bikes (Colnago and Detto). I love the 2 Italian bikes - they ride beautifully, but I've been riding the GT mainly over the past 2 years. It has a wide/narrow single on the front as well. Also sram X9 10sp. The disc brakes make a huge difference with stopping over the old rim brakes.
Nice build , I have a 90`s GT Karakoram I`m rebuilding this winter and hope it turns out as nice as this . Almost the same color as mine , I have RockShox Judy on the front but looking for a solid fork like you . Thanks for this vid , can`t wait till I rebuild mine now .
Good luck with the build. Im not sure if you know but depending on the geometry of the frame(headtube size and angle was designed for a specific suspension travel) you may have to find a fork that is corrected for the suspension travel or else the handling of the bike will change significantly.
@@TheUndeadMechanic Yes I know , did some checking on that . Might keep what I have on it as it`s original and it looks cool . It`s pretty close to the geometry of yours and I like the look of the solid fork which gave me different ideas lol. Thanks for the advice .
found you yesterday this is probably my fourth video I like your work. May I ask and I'm sure if I look I can find them. where you got those bars? They look to be the exact size that came off the 88 Trek 900 I'm building.
@@johnsheetz6639 Thank you for the kind words. Look up BLB. Brick lane bikes in the UK. This model is nice when paired with bmx stems because they have a significant rise. They are also quite wide. I wouldn't use them for seriously hard riding as they dont not have the cross bar to add strength but for a commuter I would figure them tough enough. Hope that helps.
Can you do a video on your repair bench, how you built it or what you bought to build it. I have never seen this design before. Clamping onto the forks and resting the rest of the bike on the bb area.
Awesome build - great video! How did u get the paint that way? Luv that fade.... did i miss the video on that? ...lol I'm looking for the same era GT for a build project myself. Either that or vintage Kuwahara (for nostalgic reasons). Had ALOT of those up in here in Canadia back in the day.
Thanks. By dusting in various colors over the original paint. I havent done a video on paint yet but i was thinking that when i go to build the look MI60 I will. I think the GT's of this era make fantastic bases for projects like this. There is quite a variation in weight however from the lower models to the higher models. I have a kuwahara that i built up on my instagram that may give you some ideas for your build.
@@TheUndeadMechanic Oh snap - you're in Madrid! Very cool. My family is from Lisbon. Yes, the dark to light fade paint adds so much. I'd luv to see your process. Anyhoo - I just flipped thru your gram and saw some builds. Amazing! Very clean... very Classic... luv it. Great work. The Kuwahara looks so good - exactly what i had in mind but with a rack maybe. The g-kings are perfect for these builds. Keep up the good work. Have an old Zeus in rough shape that needs re-purpose somehow as well. But French threading is : ?
Had to double check. It is from a distributor in Madrid and it is their house brand. It's is an 1 1/8 ahead adapter. Their 1" has a different design top cap. If you are interested in let me know, I have an extra.
26:05 shouldnt the preload on the quill headset be adjusted before adding the ahead stem and spacers ? This could create a less stable position of the stem since it creates some space between the spacers thus dropping down a little...?
Great build and an amazing outcome!! I'm building a 1998 palomar now and having trouble figuring out what size of headset do I need. It has a threaded fork, but the inner diameter seems to be 25.4. Can you she'd some light on that? Thanks!
Seems like it is a 1 1/8, also called oversize, threaded headset. Steerer tube outside diameter should be 28.6mm inside diameter should be 25.4. This was just before manufacturers started to switch to the ahead system rather than threaded. New threaded 1 1/8 headsets are available, but being an old standard that wasn't produced for very long the demand I would figure is very low so you will have to look well to find one. I try to keep a couple in stock at the shop just in case. Hope that helps.
@eladshitrit hard to say exactly without having one to compare, because I know Bromptons have some proprietary designs. A couple more things to keep in mind when looking at new headsets is 1. stack height and 2. The OD of the shoulder on the steerer tube where the fork crown race fits. These could cause an incompatibility.
Those are the factory stickers that are on the frame and I looked up GT's catalogue for '98 model year and it mentions the Palomar "tig welded w/ CrMo seat tube and taper squashed down tube". Hope that clarifies.
I’m starting to think that there may have been different models between US/CAN and Europe (with the Euro bikes CrMo and the US bikes high ten) for year 1998. My 1998 Palomar in red did not have any yellow accents and had a high tensile sticker in the same spot. The font of the decals is exactly the same and the specs are otherwise identical. The only catalog I can find of GT 1998 bikes is in German with the same exact bike pictured as in this video.
I have a few torque wrenches but they only make an appearance with carbon or specific designs that require the usage of them. Opinion incoming, I think an over reliance on a torque wrench means that person has not learned to meter the force they are putting into any given nut, bolt, screw, etc. Most mechanics worth their weight in salt know how much force they can put into a given material before damaging, either the bolt or the material it is mounted in, and how much force is required for said nut or bolt to do its job. Having said that, seatpost binders, stem clamp and handle bar clamp, brake levers always get torqued when mounting to carbon.
Cool build 😎 I have an unusual affection for classic GT's. I scour UA-cam for videos related to GT restorations pretty regularly. It's bike pron. I just acquired a '98 Zaskar LE and have owned a '97 Richochet for a few years now. LOVE that people are rediscovering how exciting these bikes were when they were new, and putting them back on the trails(and roads)!
Thanks, I'm glad you like it. I usually build to client needs bit this was a proof of concept.
Exciting and practical🙂
The bike looks amazing 👏 . Great work and good video 👍
Thank you😊
Damn, that chainring crank got tightened damn well 7:10. That sucker ain't going anywhere ; )
Thank you for sharing.
True. Over the years I have developed more or less an idea of the resistance that im looking for when tightening. Human torque wrench if you will. I have found that anything less with square taper and there is a tendency to loosen with all the force and vibration. Especially if the cranks are a poor fit caused by bad machining/production.
I love this build.
My Palomar that I've had since new from around 1998(?) has gone through many different incarnations, including a single speed gravel bike and even one with drop bars - which didn't last long.
Now it has 27.5 mtb wheels, a rigid carbon fork and disc brakes - for stopping power. Also, back to flat bar.
I have the same tyres, Panaracer Gravel King. Love them.
It's an awesome bike to ride and handles so well in any conditions.
Will probably never sell it. It's nice to see what other people do with them.
Thanks. Yes, I agree they are quite versatile and can do many things well while respecting their specific geometry.
@@TheUndeadMechanic the older GT frames are very well made too. I've never had any issues with it.
@@steveraleigh100 I have a late 90's taquesta that has become my main ride over the summer. Converted it to a 1X with friction tjumbshifter shifter, wide bars, and front rack. Super practical for where I live.
@@TheUndeadMechanic I like the 90's MTBs. As you say, they are versatile.
I found you can fit 700c road rims as well as 27'5 MTB rims.
I have the one GT and a few road bikes. A 1976 Raleigh and 2 steel Italian bikes (Colnago and Detto).
I love the 2 Italian bikes - they ride beautifully, but I've been riding the GT mainly over the past 2 years.
It has a wide/narrow single on the front as well. Also sram X9 10sp. The disc brakes make a huge difference with stopping over the old rim brakes.
@@TheUndeadMechanic BTW, I like the saddle. It looks like a Selle Italia flite in styling.
Bro this is a awesome build.. definitely inspirational
Thanks man. Always good to hear appreciation for the work involved.
Nice build , I have a 90`s GT Karakoram I`m rebuilding this winter and hope it turns out as nice as this . Almost the same color as mine , I have RockShox Judy on the front but looking for a solid fork like you . Thanks for this vid , can`t wait till I rebuild mine now .
Good luck with the build. Im not sure if you know but depending on the geometry of the frame(headtube size and angle was designed for a specific suspension travel) you may have to find a fork that is corrected for the suspension travel or else the handling of the bike will change significantly.
@@TheUndeadMechanic Yes I know , did some checking on that . Might keep what I have on it as it`s original and it looks cool . It`s pretty close to the geometry of yours and I like the look of the solid fork which gave me different ideas lol. Thanks for the advice .
Bagus sekali jadinya sepeda ini..thanks
Thanks for watching.
My advice, break the bank and buy a second 10 mm wrench.😉
found you yesterday this is probably my fourth video I like your work. May I ask and I'm sure if I look I can find them. where you got those bars? They look to be the exact size that came off the 88 Trek 900 I'm building.
@@johnsheetz6639 Thank you for the kind words. Look up BLB. Brick lane bikes in the UK. This model is nice when paired with bmx stems because they have a significant rise. They are also quite wide. I wouldn't use them for seriously hard riding as they dont not have the cross bar to add strength but for a commuter I would figure them tough enough. Hope that helps.
Nice...
Can you do a video on your repair bench, how you built it or what you bought to build it. I have never seen this design before. Clamping onto the forks and resting the rest of the bike on the bb area.
Soon I will do a shop tour and seeing as the shop is tiny it will be a short video but i will devote some time to the workbench.
I'm not a big fan of those leather grips and saddle but overall great rebuild and this painjob is amazing.
Thanks.
Lovely❤
Awesome build - great video! How did u get the paint that way? Luv that fade.... did i miss the video on that? ...lol
I'm looking for the same era GT for a build project myself. Either that or vintage Kuwahara (for nostalgic reasons). Had ALOT of those up in here in Canadia back in the day.
Thanks. By dusting in various colors over the original paint. I havent done a video on paint yet but i was thinking that when i go to build the look MI60 I will. I think the GT's of this era make fantastic bases for projects like this. There is quite a variation in weight however from the lower models to the higher models. I have a kuwahara that i built up on my instagram that may give you some ideas for your build.
@@TheUndeadMechanic Oh snap - you're in Madrid! Very cool. My family is from Lisbon. Yes, the dark to light fade paint adds so much. I'd luv to see your process. Anyhoo - I just flipped thru your gram and saw some builds. Amazing! Very clean... very Classic... luv it. Great work. The Kuwahara looks so good - exactly what i had in mind but with a rack maybe. The g-kings are perfect for these builds. Keep up the good work. Have an old Zeus in rough shape that needs re-purpose somehow as well. But French threading is : ?
What’s the brand name of the quill stem adapter and the headset? Thank you, inspiring build!
Had to double check. It is from a distributor in Madrid and it is their house brand. It's is an 1 1/8 ahead adapter. Their 1" has a different design top cap. If you are interested in let me know, I have an extra.
26:05 shouldnt the preload on the quill headset be adjusted before adding the ahead stem and spacers ? This could create a less stable position of the stem since it creates some space between the spacers thus dropping down a little...?
Seeing as it is a quill adapter into a standard 1 1/8 headset the spacers above the cable hanger are only aesthetic.
@@TheUndeadMechanic but doesnt it still have some downward forces from the ahead stem onto cable stop?
tops
Thanks
Great build and an amazing outcome!!
I'm building a 1998 palomar now and having trouble figuring out what size of headset do I need. It has a threaded fork, but the inner diameter seems to be 25.4. Can you she'd some light on that?
Thanks!
Seems like it is a 1 1/8, also called oversize, threaded headset. Steerer tube outside diameter should be 28.6mm inside diameter should be 25.4. This was just before manufacturers started to switch to the ahead system rather than threaded. New threaded 1 1/8 headsets are available, but being an old standard that wasn't produced for very long the demand I would figure is very low so you will have to look well to find one. I try to keep a couple in stock at the shop just in case. Hope that helps.
Thank you!,
So I guess a threaded 1 1/8" headset like Brompton uses will work.
There are plenty of these on line
@eladshitrit hard to say exactly without having one to compare, because I know Bromptons have some proprietary designs. A couple more things to keep in mind when looking at new headsets is 1. stack height and 2. The OD of the shoulder on the steerer tube where the fork crown race fits. These could cause an incompatibility.
i'm confused. i thought the Palomar started in 1997 and was high tensile. that sticker on the lower downtube says 4130 as if its a Timberline
Those are the factory stickers that are on the frame and I looked up GT's catalogue for '98 model year and it mentions the Palomar "tig welded w/ CrMo seat tube and taper squashed down tube". Hope that clarifies.
@@TheUndeadMechanic that does
I’m starting to think that there may have been different models between US/CAN and Europe (with the Euro bikes CrMo and the US bikes high ten) for year 1998. My 1998 Palomar in red did not have any yellow accents and had a high tensile sticker in the same spot. The font of the decals is exactly the same and the specs are otherwise identical. The only catalog I can find of GT 1998 bikes is in German with the same exact bike pictured as in this video.
Too much pressure on the crankset bolts
Naw
Great video! Just wondering - what is the size of the fork, height wise?
As in, dropout to fork crownrace?
Thank you🙂
@@TheUndeadMechanic as in is it a 350mm fork or shorter?
@@nickdart2612 I don't know off hand. But I will measure next time I'm in the shop.
From the base of the fork crown race to middle of the axle I measure 390mm aprox
thats a nice wrench what is it?
The custom extension tool?
Do you have a particular list?
More specific?
@@TheUndeadMechanic sorry. I mean parts!
Nice build. What type/brand handlebars are those? Pretty sweet. Thanks for the vid.
what is the song?
beatmatrice.bandcamp.com/
You should try a torque wrench.
I have a few torque wrenches but they only make an appearance with carbon or specific designs that require the usage of them. Opinion incoming, I think an over reliance on a torque wrench means that person has not learned to meter the force they are putting into any given nut, bolt, screw, etc. Most mechanics worth their weight in salt know how much force they can put into a given material before damaging, either the bolt or the material it is mounted in, and how much force is required for said nut or bolt to do its job. Having said that, seatpost binders, stem clamp and handle bar clamp, brake levers always get torqued when mounting to carbon.
Not in this application. Only for specificities
@@TheUndeadMechanicTongue wrench might not a type for square tape, but that's a little over tighten on this crank too.
22:40 wrong! Nooo please noo...
That noise is killing me
Electrical hum?