Are you talking about the resin that cures by using UV light? I haven't tried that stuff but I have thought about getting some to see what I could do with it.
@@TheFishingHobby I use it as a finish, it's a lot like epoxy, stays shiny and smooth if put enough on and can stack it for extra shine or just barely any for the frosted effect. It is very versatile compared to most adhesives, play with it to see what it can do. Also can put directly over or under epoxy seems to bond to it like it belongs.
This was good. I've been building rods for years but took many years off, now I'm getting back into it, so this was a great refresher for me. It's amazing how much stuff you can forget when you don't practice it for several years.
You just made life so easy for me. I've been building/repairing for about 6 years now. Metallic trims and just trims in general have been a headache. Thank you so much, and I wish the biggest for you and your family. 😊
Very well done, I've been building rods off and on for the last few years and need refresher courses as I go, it's been a few months since I've built one in your video is perfect for what I needed Thank you
I’ve watched this several times and had to give up and just used two colors but had to end each one separately. Do you also have videos on making ice rods? Got a kit online and includes materials to make three different ice rods. The blanks are so thin it’s hard to learn. So many times I unravel the wraps just by burnishing. Like your videos.
Nothing wrong with using the separate colors at all. If it looks good and you are happy with it, it doesn't matter how you get there! I have never built an ice fishing rod. In fact, I've never been ice fishing. I live in Arkansas, so it doesn't get cold enough to freeze anything over during the winter. I do a lot of ultralight builds so I can relate somewhat to the thinner blanks, especially near the tips of the blanks. I would suggest using a little more tension on your thread when wrapping thinner blanks if you are having issues with the wraps coming loose while burnishing AND using a pull through loop that is just a little smaller in diameter than your thread that you are wrapping with. That will make pulling the thread back under the wrap a little more difficult, but it will really tighten up the thread under the wrap so it isn't as likely to come undone while burnishing. I hope that makes sense, if not I can try to explain it differently. I hope that helps. Stay with it and you will get it figured out 👍
Thanks for the very easy to understand videos, they really do help. I have built my own wrapping fixture and it works great except for the tension rod. May I purchase a tension rod from you? I have been experimenting with various materials for the rod but I haven't found something that feels right. Thanks for your time.
Really enjoy your rod building videos and appreciate your generosity in sharing your experience with viewers. I have built a wooden wrapper with a thread tensioning mount that works ok but I really like your tensioning rod/spring that is mounted on your design and would like to improve my device. I am wondering what material and gauge your wire is and what your source is? Any help would be appreciated. Best regards.
My tension rods were made from .039 music wire and work very well. Music wire is a type of spring steel, so they will return to shape after they are flexed without any issues. Hope that helps!
@@TheFishingHobby Perfect. Thanks for the additional information. BTW I think I’ll try the clear gorilla glue when wrapping my current rod project. Have you continued to use it or have you reverted to epoxy? All the best to you.
@@brianconnell4939 I have always preferred epoxy but the clear gorilla glue seems to be working well for a lot of people who have used it for quick repairs. It is easier to work with than epoxy but I'd still recommend a dryer motor to make it easier to get good results. It is easier to remove than epoxy if you ever need to do another repair later on because it is softer than epoxy.
could you help me with a question which line to use I see that there are different measures for example (A) (d) (e) which function have many thanks👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
D is very thick thread. It is easy to work with because it has a larger diameter. A is the thinnest thread. It is a little harder to work with. A is great for ultralight up to medium duty rods. D is best for medium/heavy and larger rods. If you can find it, size B works well for most anything. It isn't so big that it looks out of place on light rods or so small that it looks weird on heavy duty rods and it is easier to work with because it is thicker than size A thread but not as thick as size D. I hope that helps!
When switching back to the main color after the second band, you're moving the band tag end down the rod to tape it down, but how is it keeping tension? My band always unravels on that step.
I'm putting a fairly good amount of tension on it and pulling it up against the previous wraps at a slight angle in the direction of the tension from the wraps. I know that must be confusing when reading it, but I hope it makes sense. If that step is giving you some problems, you may find it easier to wrap back up the rod in a spiral, under tension back up the rod and tape it down. If any of that doesn't make sense, let me know and I will try to reword it.
Wherr can I get the line you use to warp? Is there a store like bass pro that will sell some? I want to put a guide on my rod but I need the line to wrap.
I use machine embroidery thread by Coats and Clark that you can find in the sewing section of stores like Walmart. You can also find it in hobby stores that sell sewing supplies. If you use the machine embroidery thread, you will want to coat it with a water based color preserver before using epoxy.. There is a product called Mod Podge that works well for that. You can find it in Walmart stores in the hobby section or most any store that sells hobby items.
How do you keep that colored thread parallel to your silver thread when you start it? Every time I try, the colored thread slips down and will not stay. I'm using D on both threads.
It is hard to say for sure without seeing exactly what is going on in person or on a video, but it sounds like you may not be using enough tension on your thread. If there isn't enough tension on the thread, it will slide around more on the blank. If you feel like the tension is good, it could also be the angle at which the thread is going onto the blank from your jig. You want a slight angle there so that the new wraps are being pulled against the previous wraps so that they stay tight against each other. It could also be a combination of both issues. Those are my best guestimates without actually seeing what is going on. I hope that helps!
I've had some issues that have prevented me from making more recently. When I am able to make more, I will have them listed on the eBay link in the description box for this video.
See you using your wrapping machine, an excellent example for beginners. I myself have used another variation of that method but yours is very good. Joe Off the hook rod & reel
I still make and sell them! Here is a link to the eBay listing: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=142777828781&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 This is a link to the video about using the jig: ua-cam.com/video/C9j8CjLtVn0/v-deo.html Just let me know if you have any additional questions about anything and I'd be happy to help.
It is, but it is easy enough. If you have some metallic thread that is finicky, this is the best method I've tried to keep from damaging the foil in it. Handy to be aware of for that reason if nothing else.
When each color band is set, you can coat with UV resin and not worry about it coming unwrapped if tension is lost, very handy stuff.
Are you talking about the resin that cures by using UV light? I haven't tried that stuff but I have thought about getting some to see what I could do with it.
@@TheFishingHobby Yes I use it in fly tying too, it is great when want to seat something quick
@@TheFishingHobby My favorite out of the ones Iv'e tried, www.orvis.com/p/bug-bond/1Y59?item_code=1Y590400&adv=127748&cm_mmc=plas-_
@@brianstevens3858 thanks! Could it be used as a thread finish or is it too hard to keep even for that?
@@TheFishingHobby I use it as a finish, it's a lot like epoxy, stays shiny and smooth if put enough on and can stack it for extra shine or just barely any for the frosted effect. It is very versatile compared to most adhesives, play with it to see what it can do. Also can put directly over or under epoxy seems to bond to it like it belongs.
This was good. I've been building rods for years but took many years off, now I'm getting back into it, so this was a great refresher for me. It's amazing how much stuff you can forget when you don't practice it for several years.
You just made life so easy for me. I've been building/repairing for about 6 years now. Metallic trims and just trims in general have been a headache. Thank you so much, and I wish the biggest for you and your family. 😊
I’m glad you found the video helpful and thank you for the for the kind words!
Great video, keep up the good work.
This is great! Thanks for doing it!
No problem, glad you liked it!
Very well done, I've been building rods off and on for the last few years and need refresher courses as I go, it's been a few months since I've built one in your video is perfect for what I needed Thank you
Thank you!
That was very well done. Thanks!
Great video
Thank you very helpful.
I really appreciate your videos, very helpful👍👍
Thank you!
I don't wrap rods but that looks like a fun hobby. I love that thread setup you have!
It is fun to me. Thanks!
I can't tell it didn't come that way. You've got it down!👍💯
Thanks!
I need to try this!
It is an easy technique IMO 👍
Very nice friend,salam mancing mania, saya dari Indonesia
Excelente gracias por el aporte.👍👍👏👏
de nada, me alegro de que te haya gustado
Nice technique! Always looking for better ways to tuck those trim band ends within the main wrap.
Thank you, glad you found something useful to you!
I’ve watched this several times and had to give up and just used two colors but had to end each one separately. Do you also have videos on making ice rods? Got a kit online and includes materials to make three different ice rods. The blanks are so thin it’s hard to learn. So many times I unravel the wraps just by burnishing. Like your videos.
Nothing wrong with using the separate colors at all. If it looks good and you are happy with it, it doesn't matter how you get there! I have never built an ice fishing rod. In fact, I've never been ice fishing. I live in Arkansas, so it doesn't get cold enough to freeze anything over during the winter. I do a lot of ultralight builds so I can relate somewhat to the thinner blanks, especially near the tips of the blanks. I would suggest using a little more tension on your thread when wrapping thinner blanks if you are having issues with the wraps coming loose while burnishing AND using a pull through loop that is just a little smaller in diameter than your thread that you are wrapping with. That will make pulling the thread back under the wrap a little more difficult, but it will really tighten up the thread under the wrap so it isn't as likely to come undone while burnishing. I hope that makes sense, if not I can try to explain it differently. I hope that helps. Stay with it and you will get it figured out 👍
Thanks for the very easy to understand videos, they really do help. I have built my own wrapping fixture and it works great except for the tension rod. May I purchase a tension rod from you? I have been experimenting with various materials for the rod but I haven't found something that feels right. Thanks for your time.
I could sell you one, but I use .039 music wire if you can find it locally. If you can't find any, you can email me: thefishinghobby@gmail.com
@@TheFishingHobby thanks, most folks wouldn't give that information. I really appreciate it.
No problem, good luck with finishing up your wrapper 👍
Really enjoy your rod building videos and appreciate your generosity in sharing your experience with viewers. I have built a wooden wrapper with a thread tensioning mount that works ok but I really like your tensioning rod/spring that is mounted on your design and would like to improve my device. I am wondering what material and gauge your wire is and what your source is? Any help would be appreciated. Best regards.
My tension rods were made from .039 music wire and work very well. Music wire is a type of spring steel, so they will return to shape after they are flexed without any issues. Hope that helps!
Amazon sells it. Also, some musical instrument type of stores may carry it. I have also found music wire in hobby stores like Hobby Lobby.
Thanks very much for your quick and detailed reply. Much appreciated. Tight Lines.
@@TheFishingHobby Perfect. Thanks for the additional information. BTW I think I’ll try the clear gorilla glue when wrapping my current rod project. Have you continued to use it or have you reverted to epoxy? All the best to you.
@@brianconnell4939 I have always preferred epoxy but the clear gorilla glue seems to be working well for a lot of people who have used it for quick repairs. It is easier to work with than epoxy but I'd still recommend a dryer motor to make it easier to get good results. It is easier to remove than epoxy if you ever need to do another repair later on because it is softer than epoxy.
I wish I had that setup and skills bro, my lucky Ugly Stik lost a guide last week and I hate to throw it away lool. Awesome tutorial bro.
Oh man, should have kept it for parts! If I can wrap a guide on, anyone can!
You can wrap a guide with a cardboard box: ua-cam.com/video/wEC8ktjlYTk/v-deo.html
Have you considered doing military service ribbons? They very in collars, be a great tribute.
That is a good idea!
I have done that, it looks really good and to those who know what it means. It's quite powerful.
could you help me with a question which line to use I see that there are different measures for example (A) (d) (e) which function have many thanks👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
D is very thick thread. It is easy to work with because it has a larger diameter. A is the thinnest thread. It is a little harder to work with. A is great for ultralight up to medium duty rods. D is best for medium/heavy and larger rods. If you can find it, size B works well for most anything. It isn't so big that it looks out of place on light rods or so small that it looks weird on heavy duty rods and it is easier to work with because it is thicker than size A thread but not as thick as size D. I hope that helps!
When switching back to the main color after the second band, you're moving the band tag end down the rod to tape it down, but how is it keeping tension? My band always unravels on that step.
I'm putting a fairly good amount of tension on it and pulling it up against the previous wraps at a slight angle in the direction of the tension from the wraps. I know that must be confusing when reading it, but I hope it makes sense. If that step is giving you some problems, you may find it easier to wrap back up the rod in a spiral, under tension back up the rod and tape it down. If any of that doesn't make sense, let me know and I will try to reword it.
Wherr can I get the line you use to warp? Is there a store like bass pro that will sell some? I want to put a guide on my rod but I need the line to wrap.
I use machine embroidery thread by Coats and Clark that you can find in the sewing section of stores like Walmart. You can also find it in hobby stores that sell sewing supplies. If you use the machine embroidery thread, you will want to coat it with a water based color preserver before using epoxy.. There is a product called Mod Podge that works well for that. You can find it in Walmart stores in the hobby section or most any store that sells hobby items.
@@TheFishingHobby thank you so much!
No problem and good luck with it!
How do you keep that colored thread parallel to your silver thread when you start it? Every time I try, the colored thread slips down and will not stay. I'm using D on both threads.
It is hard to say for sure without seeing exactly what is going on in person or on a video, but it sounds like you may not be using enough tension on your thread. If there isn't enough tension on the thread, it will slide around more on the blank. If you feel like the tension is good, it could also be the angle at which the thread is going onto the blank from your jig. You want a slight angle there so that the new wraps are being pulled against the previous wraps so that they stay tight against each other. It could also be a combination of both issues. Those are my best guestimates without actually seeing what is going on. I hope that helps!
Where can I buy your jig at?
I've had some issues that have prevented me from making more recently. When I am able to make more, I will have them listed on the eBay link in the description box for this video.
See you using your wrapping machine, an excellent example for beginners. I myself have used another variation of that method but yours is very good. Joe Off the hook rod & reel
Thanks Joe! I say there is no wrong or right way if it works for you 😀 There are a lot of different ways to do things, no doubt about it!
@@TheFishingHobby Yes sir! How are things with you. Hope all is fine. God Bless
@@fiorevitola880 everything is great my way, how about you? How is business going?
@@TheFishingHobby Great! No complaints, except not enough time in a day. LOL
I hear that!
I would like to buy one of those wrapping jigs
I still make and sell them!
Here is a link to the eBay listing: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=142777828781&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111
This is a link to the video about using the jig: ua-cam.com/video/C9j8CjLtVn0/v-deo.html
Just let me know if you have any additional questions about anything and I'd be happy to help.
Although in works, this is MUCH slower than the more traditional method---Way more steps than needed to do a single or multiple trim bands!
It is, but it is easy enough. If you have some metallic thread that is finicky, this is the best method I've tried to keep from damaging the foil in it. Handy to be aware of for that reason if nothing else.
The only thing more exciting than watching you take a hour to explain a simple proceedure in that mono tone voice would be watching paint dry.
I agree! Watch this and be entertained: ua-cam.com/video/PLOPygVcaVE/v-deo.html