terrific video. thanks i learned a lot. refreshed my memory. 30 years ago i went to a/c class and the welding you showed they called it "cappilary action" where you get the solder to flow up inside where the tubes connect. it defies gravity and can flow uphill.
What do you set your regulators to. I have had mixed results...but I think it's just a matter of making the process repeateable. I have the capn hook and I have been using 6/16 PSI ace/oxy and it's worked. Normally heat for 30 seconds and start "walking " the rod around....I wish I could just put the bead at the top and have the material just wrap around
Neutral flame on a #1 tip has been real good to me. Acetylene regulator set at 5 psig & oxygen regulator set at 5 psig. I can braze up to ¾ copper tubing very easily with the #1 tip. I am considering putting the micro 6000 rosebud made by Uniweld in my kit for ⅞ copper tubing. I struggle to get a uniform braze on ⅞ tubing with the #1 tip, but i can get the job done
Very good braze and video. I was wondering if you have any videos on taking joints apart and putting them back together like in changing compressors or the use of different brazing strengths like 5%, 15% and 56% silver?
Great video sir! I work for a company that prefers also the joint to be capped over the seam after it's been pulled into to joint. But it's good to see the video here to not get confused and forget to pull the solder into the joint first.
Good video…thanks for posting. Just a regular homeowner here, do you know if you can purge with argon instead of nitrogen when brazing? Reason I ask is that I already have a bottle of argon for tig welding and thought if you’re just trying to keep the oxygen out when out of the pipe when brazing, then it seems like argon might work.
how is that roast? he just said he PERSONALLY don't like it. thats just preference. there wasn't any valid criticism about the hook for it to be considered roast
I'm sure you're right : there probably is a text book somwhere that says you're wrong in how you set your gas pressure and some of you're other practices but textbooks don't generaly do much welding. They're probably afraid of the flame. Thanks
Thanks for the video. Going into my third week of school and were going to be learning brazing for the next week or so. Hopefully we learn to drip the alloy only onto the top and move it down and under instead of dripping it on the bottom.
@@lunx-.2879 yep still in the field. It's been an adventure so far. Started in Refrigeration/Commercial HVAC. Now I'm in Residential/Commercial. Definitely looking to get back into Refrigeration though. Overall it's been mostly pleasant and professional.
@@jerrodwilliams6789They work fine but Im personally not a fan of them because they are loud as hell. They are handy for tight places where it's a pain to lug an Oxy Acetylene rig though.
Ive only uses the turbotorch, it works reeally well but like he said its pretty loud and i think the oxy rig heats it a little more controlled. But brazing doesnt necessarily need to be precise welding.
I like you're video man! Very humble, but you definitely know what you're doing. As far as pressures go, I do 10 psi on acetylene and 15 on oxygen. Then regulate the flame with the handle from there. But I definitely don't think there is an absolute right or wrong way.
I came across your video because I've been looking into that uniweld 17-15 rosebud tip. Do you have problems with it actually overheating? I see it has turned almost black as have mine. I've purchased a couple of them thinking the first have been defective but each one gets too hot to the touch. I've tried every pressure combination and nothing seems to work for me. Any words of wisdom? Thanks
@@jagboy69 Ain't no faster than a rosebud on oxygen acetylene but to each their own.Trust me, I ain't cheap either. That's why they pay other guys to run line sets. 😉🤙
@@jagboy69 turbo torch is great for installs like your saying. Try using it for txv replacement or compressor jobs. I've brazing very small and tight areas. Turbo torch doesn't keep heat localized. It migrates and becomes a problem which doesn't work well in service world
Hi Mr HVAC in SC....I've got a question for you...when you're brazing and the joint/pipe to be brazed becomes cherry red...and the solder rod is starting to melt on to the copper pipe...how far back or what angle do you keep the flame whilst applying the melting rod? I want to know if the turbo torch/rig flame should be slightly above the rod when brazing? Cheers from London UK!
If you're brazing properly, you should hold the flame close to the pipe until it turns red, (angle, types of flames ect are personal preference) then use your rod, essentially, push the brazing rod into the coupling, 90°, fitting ect until you have about an inch of melt which will look black and gold, maybe even grey. You then move your torch towards your pipe and "cap" at the edge where both metals are now adjoined and fully sealed. This will help the capillary action do it's job. It should be clean and smooth like the video shows. No big lumps or areas less filled than other's.
Starting at the bottom with the heat is a soldering technique. In all my years I've never heard anyone suggest any particular starting point when brazing.
I'd need more information like type of metals being brazed, refrigerant type, ect. if it's a bon flammable refrigerant and copper to copper, I recommend a a nitrogen purge and a nice clean brazing surface. Thanks for watching!
The book I was given does say you're wrong, but not wrong in a bad way. It's more about not going OVER. Your numbers are well under. It's safe. And with the way you braze, I might try your oxygen and acetylene numbers. lol
@@HVACinSC and you do amazing with it. keep on doing you. I'm noticing a lot of what you're saying. One text book/ manual says one thing, the NATE guides say another. I think as long as you're in that safety range it's all good.
do you run same pressure for rosebud? I tried one and it pops and shuts off- it scares me- but When running like 7 psi on each --it seems to need more o2. What do you use for it?
It’s a waste of rod! The joint is sealed on the inside, that’s why it’s important to pull that solder into the joint! Solder will follow the heat, so with your torch you can pull that solder inside the joint by concentrating the heat at the inside bottom of the joint!
@@flyinbrianvids If the brazing was not done initially with nitrogen flowing does purging after the fact remove most of the oxidation? I see a number of techs not using nitrogen to braze repairs on residential HVAC. Concern here is future blockage due to oxidation flaking. comment welcome, I an a new at this Tnx.
@BobFlyer No. Purging does not remove oxidation inside the pipe. It displaces the oxygen, preventing it from forming. If nitrogen is not used while brazing, the oxidation will be created and it will never be completely cleaned out of the line.
No inspector will EVER check braze joints. Guys that say to add braze until the fitting can't be seen need more practice and are compensating for a lack of understanding proper brazing techniques.
Whenever I need to solder, I switch to my POL HANDLE& use the size needed,,,,but when I need to braze,,then switch Tom TURBO TORCH HANDLE, but it’s a flat metal one, they NOLONGER MAKE, I have to watch it like a HAWK,when working with someone., and yes I do like HARRIS solder/brazing rods, sticks,,I use 15 % silver. Cheers from NJ
I was trying to use one- (just bought) because i had to change an evaporator coil and the installer used all kinds of crazy reducers and fittings so there were as many as 3 layers of pipe in some spots---so to get it undone- my #1 tip wouldn't touch it---but it popped and kept going out. I think I had about 6=7psi acetylene and same to 10 on o2. Thanks
I also use air -acetylene with a slightly oversized tip for that sometimes-obviously space shape and clearance dependent, but it can work very effectively with a larger “enveloping” open flame.
No flux is required for brazing. The pop sound on an oxy/acetylene torch is what happens when you turn the acetylene off first which is correct. Turning off the oxygen first will cause soot to build up on the torch and can cause issues down the road.
Well...it looks like my not giving up on the First-Time-Ever Refrigerator Repair is paying off Dividends in the form of a Repaired Unit! Freezer Temp started at +69 degrees...it is now +23 degrees. There were 3 issues that I encountered after getting the Compressor and Filter/Dryer Welded In: 1.) The Compressor would not Run. Turns out, the Male Pins on the Compressor itself are 180 degrees from the Old to the New. Fix...Rotate the Female Plug so that the two Power Pins engage leaving one unused Male Pin floating in mid air. Hoakey...yeah but it works. I'll call Sears Parts Direct & see if they have a proper Harness. 2.) One of my Welds at the Compressor/Condenser Joint let go after 24 hours. Fix...Reweld Joint and this time use a Mirror to Inspect the backside of the Weld. 3.) System would not come up out of Vacuum all the way with R134A Refrigerant installed thus unit would not get Cold. Fix...Cut Capillary Tube at Filter/Dryer and Inspect. Found Silver Solder Wicked up to end of Capillary Tube and Welded off Opening. Unweld joint and Reweld with Capillary Tube further into Filter/Dryer...not too far though. Pulled a Vacuum yesterday and let it set overnight...no Leaks. Charge the System with Refrigerant.
That is not an accurate statement. Glowing red is not good for the copper but getting the pipe slightly red is absolutely neccessary for the best bond. Research proper brazing practices from any braze manufacturer and you will see the proper techniques to brazing.
We hired a contractor to do a job to help us catch up on jobs. I stop by any every tool they had was brand new and junk brands and every elbow or coupling looked like corn flakes they had no idea what they where doing. the gov always hires the lowest bidder so sad. So yes we finished the job.
In this industry many things are unfortunately taught that are not accurate or correct. If those pressures give you good results then I say keep rolling with them. 🤙
![SLANK - Maafkan Aku [Vee Nhavan Cover Live at Sangkareang]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7ob4imYoFYY/mqdefault.jpg)
Starting a new job today at nVent. Been 20 yrs since i've done this. Good quick refresh training video.
terrific video. thanks i learned a lot. refreshed my memory. 30 years ago i went to a/c class and the welding you showed they called it "cappilary action" where you get the solder to flow up inside where the tubes connect. it defies gravity and can flow uphill.
Hooray!! someone on UA-cam who actually knows what they are doing.
The newer Cap n hook has 5 ports. I really like it for taking things apart.Great for removing lines from compressors. Good video.
Yeah, I've seen it. Personally hate them across the board. Much prefer using a rosebud tip for jobs like removing compressors. Thanks for watching.
Works great in tight spaces also!
What do you set your regulators to. I have had mixed results...but I think it's just a matter of making the process repeateable. I have the capn hook and I have been using 6/16 PSI ace/oxy and it's worked. Normally heat for 30 seconds and start "walking " the rod around....I wish I could just put the bead at the top and have the material just wrap around
Neutral flame on a #1 tip has been real good to me. Acetylene regulator set at 5 psig & oxygen regulator set at 5 psig. I can braze up to ¾ copper tubing very easily with the #1 tip. I am considering putting the micro 6000 rosebud made by Uniweld in my kit for ⅞ copper tubing. I struggle to get a uniform braze on ⅞ tubing with the #1 tip, but i can get the job done
Good one. I love when brazed with that nice & gentle movement.
Thanks for watching
Very good braze and video. I was wondering if you have any videos on taking joints apart and putting them back together like in changing compressors or the use of different brazing strengths like 5%, 15% and 56% silver?
Great video sir! I work for a company that prefers also the joint to be capped over the seam after it's been pulled into to joint. But it's good to see the video here to not get confused and forget to pull the solder into the joint first.
Thanks for watching Tony!
Just brazed first the first time replacing a txv, looked like crap, but held charge.. this video helps for the future
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Good video and welding job. Please keep welding lessons rolling
You haven’t been dead wrong at all- 7 PSI , or 50 Kpa (nominal) is what I was taught as standard- mech plumber from Victoria, Australia 👍🏾
I usually roll with the air/acetylene torch but if I need the oxy/acety kit I like the rosebud. Get it hot, fill it and get out of there!
Good video. I love that rosebud for un sweating compressors.
Rosebuds are great torch tips.
Nice. sound like a very humble person.
Good video…thanks for posting. Just a regular homeowner here, do you know if you can purge with argon instead of nitrogen when brazing?
Reason I ask is that I already have a bottle of argon for tig welding and thought if you’re just trying to keep the oxygen out when out of the pipe when brazing, then it seems like argon might work.
THE cap'n hook was in the thumbnail. i was about ready to say get that shit outta here, but then you roasted it for me. gj
how is that roast? he just said he PERSONALLY don't like it. thats just preference. there wasn't any valid criticism about the hook for it to be considered roast
Good video brother. I also use #2 my heat is just a little differently. I go 7 to 12 but that's me.. All in All good video...
Thanks for your approval... 😆
@@HVACinSC no saying the end results is all that matters
I think you do good videos🌴👍😎
I was just giving you a hard time. 😁 I appreciate your comments buddy! 🤜🤛
@@HVACinSC kwel👍
Two good brazing videos in the same day! Thanks for sharing. Do you use Harris or Solderweld rods?
I've always used Harris. I hear good things about Solderweld but haven't used any of their products.
Going to try it this way. I haven't done this in 10 years and it shows.
Great educational video for brazing. Thank you for sharing, sir.
Thanks for watching man! 🤜🤛
Excellent explanation. Thx
I'm sure you're right : there probably is a text book somwhere that says you're wrong in how you set your gas pressure and some of you're other practices but textbooks don't generaly do much welding. They're probably afraid of the flame. Thanks
Makes no odds what your regs are set to you regulate the flow of oxygen and acetylene at the torch head
Great job looks really good. Good explanation too.
Thanks Gary!
Thanks for the video. Going into my third week of school and were going to be learning brazing for the next week or so. Hopefully we learn to drip the alloy only onto the top and move it down and under instead of dripping it on the bottom.
you still in the field? how is it
@@lunx-.2879 yep still in the field. It's been an adventure so far. Started in Refrigeration/Commercial HVAC. Now I'm in Residential/Commercial. Definitely looking to get back into Refrigeration though.
Overall it's been mostly pleasant and professional.
These tanks do you always keep them in your truck or do they need to be in a certain temperature for storage?
what type braze are you using? do you have a link for amazon so i can buy the right type? sorry new to this.
Are you in HVAC? Brazing without any experience is a bad idea.
Thanks Brad! Do you like 6% or 15% silver?
Thanks Chuck! I always use 15%
How do you feel about a turbo torch?
@@jerrodwilliams6789They work fine but Im personally not a fan of them because they are loud as hell. They are handy for tight places where it's a pain to lug an Oxy Acetylene rig though.
Ive only uses the turbotorch, it works reeally well but like he said its pretty loud and i think the oxy rig heats it a little more controlled. But brazing doesnt necessarily need to be precise welding.
@@brianmercado2968 Good point.
I like you're video man! Very humble, but you definitely know what you're doing. As far as pressures go, I do 10 psi on acetylene and 15 on oxygen. Then regulate the flame with the handle from there. But I definitely don't think there is an absolute right or wrong way.
Thanks for watching
I use a cutting head to silver solder. It has a right angle so I can get in the tight spots
Thanks for watching!
Thank you, very informative and good presentation.
I came across your video because I've been looking into that uniweld 17-15 rosebud tip. Do you have problems with it actually overheating? I see it has turned almost black as have mine. I've purchased a couple of them thinking the first have been defective but each one gets too hot to the touch. I've tried every pressure combination and nothing seems to work for me. Any words of wisdom? Thanks
Excellent video.
Thank you!
What pressures do you use for the rosebud?
Should always be 10% oxygen 5% acetylene
What filler rod did you use, no flux needed obviously?
15% Sil-Fos
Nice....you know your stuff...good video
I tossed my victor torch kit in the TRASH! Straight acetylene with the turbo torch these days. One bottle and done.
I can't stand a turbo torch. Loud as hell and not nearly as versatile as an oxygen acetylene rig.
@@HVACinSC They are loud... but when all you're doing is copper line sets, I'll take the noise. It's FAST and time is money. I don't come cheap.
@@jagboy69 Ain't no faster than a rosebud on oxygen acetylene but to each their own.Trust me, I ain't cheap either. That's why they pay other guys to run line sets. 😉🤙
@@jagboy69 turbo torch is great for installs like your saying. Try using it for txv replacement or compressor jobs. I've brazing very small and tight areas. Turbo torch doesn't keep heat localized. It migrates and becomes a problem which doesn't work well in service world
@@pineychristian I havent had any problems changing out TXVs or compressors with mine. I just work fast I guess.
Hi Mr HVAC in SC....I've got a question for you...when you're brazing and the joint/pipe
to be brazed becomes cherry red...and the solder rod is starting to melt on to the copper
pipe...how far back or what angle do you keep the flame whilst applying the melting
rod? I want to know if the turbo torch/rig flame should be slightly above the rod when
brazing?
Cheers from London UK!
If you're brazing properly, you should hold the flame close to the pipe until it turns red, (angle, types of flames ect are personal preference) then use your rod, essentially, push the brazing rod into the coupling, 90°, fitting ect until you have about an inch of melt which will look black and gold, maybe even grey. You then move your torch towards your pipe and "cap" at the edge where both metals are now adjoined and fully sealed. This will help the capillary action do it's job. It should be clean and smooth like the video shows. No big lumps or areas less filled than other's.
Good video, our techniques are very similar. Thanks.
Great minds think alike. 🤙
What torch kit brand do you recommend?
pretty similar to what I do. Most say start at the bottom but the top works for me
Starting at the bottom with the heat is a soldering technique. In all my years I've never heard anyone suggest any particular starting point when brazing.
What Tips & Tricks do you have for me on Brazing my Kenmore Elite Refrigerator Fittings? I am going to Attempt Replacing the Compressor.
I'd need more information like type of metals being brazed, refrigerant type, ect. if it's a bon flammable refrigerant and copper to copper, I recommend a a nitrogen purge and a nice clean brazing surface.
Thanks for watching!
The book I was given does say you're wrong, but not wrong in a bad way. It's more about not going OVER. Your numbers are well under. It's safe. And with the way you braze, I might try your oxygen and acetylene numbers. lol
Keep in mind one book is not the end all be all. As I mentioned in the video, this is my method.
@@HVACinSC and you do amazing with it. keep on doing you. I'm noticing a lot of what you're saying. One text book/ manual says one thing, the NATE guides say another. I think as long as you're in that safety range it's all good.
do you run same pressure for rosebud? I tried one and it pops and shuts off- it scares me- but When running like 7 psi on each --it seems to need more o2. What do you use for it?
Curious to know why (although not necessary) you didn't add a shoulder around the joint?
It’s a waste of rod! The joint is sealed on the inside, that’s why it’s important to pull that solder into the joint! Solder will follow the heat, so with your torch you can pull that solder inside the joint by concentrating the heat at the inside bottom of the joint!
What size tip did you use in this video?
Do i have to run nitrogen or with the medium size flame the oxidation is less and i can get by?
Always purge with nitrogen, if you don't you'll be getting a callback with a clogged txv or solenoid.
@@flyinbrianvids If the brazing was not done initially with nitrogen flowing does purging after the fact remove most of the oxidation? I see a number of techs not using nitrogen to braze repairs on residential HVAC. Concern here is future blockage due to oxidation flaking. comment welcome, I an a new at this Tnx.
@BobFlyer
No.
Purging does not remove oxidation inside the pipe. It displaces the oxygen, preventing it from forming. If nitrogen is not used while brazing, the oxidation will be created and it will never be completely cleaned out of the line.
@@HVACinSC Thanks for the update, keep getting told oxidation after flushing with nitrogen is not an issue, the oxidation remains. Thanks again
@@HVACinSC when to stop delivering nitrogen? should I wait until pipe cools down to certain point or can I stop just after brazing is finished?
Very good man
What is the maximum pipe size you brazed
1-5/8" consistently and maybe 1-7/8" a hand full of times.
That looks really good!!
Yeah! Good video! Thanks!!!
Thanks for watching Alex!
is that silver rod you are using in this video. very informative, thank you. mvh sverre eriksen, Norway
Most likely silfos (5-15% silver, phosphorus and copper all in 1 stick). The 15% silver silfos rods have a lower melting point.
I was always taught to never let the coupling show, as in to add more solder to prevent leaks, also inspectors look for that.
No inspector will EVER check braze joints. Guys that say to add braze until the fitting can't be seen need more practice and are compensating for a lack of understanding proper brazing techniques.
@@HVACinSC Agreed.
Thanks for the video
Excellent video. Thank you
Whenever I need to solder, I switch to my POL HANDLE& use the size needed,,,,but when I need to braze,,then switch Tom TURBO TORCH HANDLE, but it’s a flat metal one, they NOLONGER MAKE, I have to watch it like a HAWK,when working with someone., and yes I do like HARRIS solder/brazing rods, sticks,,I use 15 % silver. Cheers from NJ
I hate turbo torches. Loud and inaccurate. Only advantagevis its lighter than an Oxy/ Acetylene rig.
this hook like tip..is it available in the market?what brand is that?
No clue... I don't like or use it
I always switch to a rosebud when I have to unbraze a fitting
They work great for that!
I was trying to use one- (just bought) because i had to change an evaporator coil and the installer used all kinds of crazy reducers and fittings so there were as many as 3 layers of pipe in some spots---so to get it undone- my #1 tip wouldn't touch it---but it popped and kept going out. I think I had about 6=7psi acetylene and same to 10 on o2. Thanks
I also use air -acetylene with a slightly oversized tip for that sometimes-obviously space shape and clearance dependent, but it can work very effectively with a larger “enveloping” open flame.
Please make a video on how to properly set up a rosebud . I’m always getting flashbacks and it blows out .
Your ports are dirty or your acetylene bottle has been lay down
Thank you Brad!
Great job
Good work.
nice tips
From a UA UNION PLUMBER looks good to me I add a cap AFTER,but that’s just me 👍🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Thanks. I don't cap any of my braze joints. Unnecessary IMO. 🤙
Hvac student here
what can I do to stop the "pop" sounds when shutting off the torch?
Also is Flux needed when you're brazing.
No flux is required for brazing. The pop sound on an oxy/acetylene torch is what happens when you turn the acetylene off first which is correct. Turning off the oxygen first will cause soot to build up on the torch and can cause issues down the road.
1st comment ... Do I win a years free supply of Bourbon ... Lol ... Good learning vid Brad ...
Sure! As long as you share it. 😆😆
Sand paper to keep it clean when brazing
Nitrogen to keep it clean when brazing. Sandpaper to clean it before brazing. 👍
Sometimes I get a pop on my torch when I shut it off
Cut O2 off 1st.
Well...it looks like my not giving up on the First-Time-Ever Refrigerator Repair is paying off Dividends in the form of a Repaired Unit! Freezer Temp started at +69 degrees...it is now +23 degrees.
There were 3 issues that I encountered after getting the Compressor and Filter/Dryer Welded In:
1.) The Compressor would not Run. Turns out, the Male Pins on the Compressor itself are 180 degrees from the Old to the New. Fix...Rotate the Female Plug so that the two Power Pins engage leaving one unused Male Pin floating in mid air. Hoakey...yeah but it works. I'll call Sears Parts Direct & see if they have a proper Harness.
2.) One of my Welds at the Compressor/Condenser Joint let go after 24 hours. Fix...Reweld Joint and this time use a Mirror to Inspect the backside of the Weld.
3.) System would not come up out of Vacuum all the way with R134A Refrigerant installed thus unit would not get Cold. Fix...Cut Capillary Tube at Filter/Dryer and Inspect. Found Silver Solder Wicked up to end of Capillary Tube and Welded off Opening. Unweld joint and Reweld with Capillary Tube further into Filter/Dryer...not too far though.
Pulled a Vacuum yesterday and let it set overnight...no Leaks. Charge the System with Refrigerant.
Never get it cherry red best way is to tap it with your brazing rod to see if you get the green flame with your neutral flame then you're good to go
That is not an accurate statement. Glowing red is not good for the copper but getting the pipe slightly red is absolutely neccessary for the best bond. Research proper brazing practices from any braze manufacturer and you will see the proper techniques to brazing.
Hopefully you didn't just look at the thumbnail and draw your conclusion. The photo was edited for effect. 👌
Great job im going to fortis college for hvac and in our books it 7 gas and 10 oxygen so 7 n 7 very close.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
How to braze in less access places
Very carefully
#ScrewTheBook great video, thanks!
Thanks brotha!!
We hired a contractor to do a job to help us catch up on jobs. I stop by any every tool they had was brand new and junk brands and every elbow or coupling looked like corn flakes they had no idea what they where doing. the gov always hires the lowest bidder so sad. So yes we finished the job.
Thanks for watching
I must of missed it, the pressures you use please:)
7psi Oxy & 7psi Acetylene is what he said
I use 6 and 16....and now wondering if there's a problem with 16 for oxygen (if I should lower it)
Should have shown one w not enough solder
There's plenty of those already on YT. 🤣
Wow it looked like brass to aluminum.
👍
Leather gloves
How important is not nitrogen back filling, really. Everyone talks "best practice" but if I had to guess in the field 90% don't do it?
It's very important for system longevity. I say 90% of actual career professionals use best practices.
You didnt pressure check it for leaks lol
Put the heat where you want the meat
Thanks for watching
I am a HVAC student and we where taught 5 gas and 10 on oxygen
In this industry many things are unfortunately taught that are not accurate or correct. If those pressures give you good results then I say keep rolling with them. 🤙
@@HVACinSC Awesome thanks for the great videos!
If you think about it your torch is actually controlled be the torch adjustment and not really by the line pressure settings...
it took you 83 seconds to braze that 3/8" pipe?that's long..
That's 5/8" and is was clearly an extended demonstration.
Thanks for being a fan. 😁
Yes you can tell it’s 5/8”. Who is this guy ☝🏽