EP 2 | What you know about paddling is (probably) wrong | In Depth - A Surfing Podcast
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- Опубліковано 15 сер 2022
- You can find this podcast where ever you get podcasts - just search "In Depth - A Surfing Podcast"
I want to introduce you to an idea, something for you to think about and you might think nah that sounds whack but I can guarantee after you understand it, you will notice all of the better surfers doing this and getting all the waves.
You’re paddling wrong and what you think paddling is meant to do is completely wrong and this is why you may be struggling to catch waves.
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These days I sit around alot waiting for waves but at the same time I do paddle alot to get to the right position, what I mean by that is, if I see a wave coming and I have to paddle across 10 metres, I'll paddle over but I won't be able to catch that specific wave cuz my fitness is too shit lol but if another 1 is behind that, I'll go the one after
We heard all times "look where you are going", that is correct but, when you are about tô catch a wave you need tô watch the other side. To feel the speed anda the timing of the wave. Then you "enter" in the wave, look to where you are going, and pop up.
Yep looking to the other side let’s you know what kind of drop is coming up too. I always do it , then look down the line as I’m taking off. Really helps make late drops
Seems like a fine line between being in a lineup and snaking. Frankly I don't see much in the way of surf etiquette today but for sure there's plenty of snaking. (But then I'm in southern california and entitlement seems to be a way of life here). Many will paddle around, never look forward or around to see if anyone is going and take off right on top of you. I've missed plenty of waves to that type. I have on rare occasion (mostly luck) paddled toward a wave, turned, take 2 strokes and got a great ride but no one else even looked like they'd try. Surfing is a great sport (started in 1962) but it has had a huge explosion in the last few years. All are welcome but try to make it a community (like the good old days)! Don't think you're Kelly Slater, go to Doheny on a Sunday and yell at people for being on your wave - just chill and appreciate that surfing exists.
Thanks to the Ombe team. I really love your content. You have improved my ability within 3 months.
Of course paddling is positioning. Most beginners and intermediates don’t know where to position, and don’t have the paddle strength to move around.
What you’re saying isn’t wrong, but this is literally you ranting for 15 minutes about “why doesn’t a beginner surfer just surf better”.
Why would a beginner paddle for something that they can’t tell is a wave? Watching and learning is crucial.
It is so good to hear this about étiquette, i thought it was just me but I was right, there is alway or most of the time a dude or a karen that paddles in front of me and pretending i am not there goes on the inside and starts paddling when a wave comes, they dont give a F... about étiquette, it is so annoying. I guess it is the competitive attitude that is on all areas of life we are getting to the point where there so many of us that we are like a cancer on Earth on all aspects.
I live in California in a beach city that has many good breaks. We get tourists from all over the USA and world coming here to surf or just trying out surfing. Many have no idea what surf etiquette is, and many are just here for a week or or month so they want to get as many waves as possible and don’t care how. Sometimes I wish we could bring back the old days where those type of people got a beat down by the locals.
Needed this, great segment 🤙
Hey guys loving the series. do you have the link for jjf Haleiwa clip ? Thanks
I worked on paddling to the wave but noticed by the time I positioned myself to catch the wave, my shoulder were already burnt out. I didn’t have enough strength to paddle into the wave. 🤦
Also ppl need to be honest about their fitness. Sometimes it’s due to inexperience but sometimes it’s just surfing lazy bc you don’t have the energy to move around.
You know what's funny? I'm an absolute noob. But I caught 3 waves today accidentally. Now what I mean by this is I was just chilling in my spot on the edge of the beach away from the other guys who know what they were doing.
All I did was just sit and wait. Then suddenly a big wave comes and I see others on the other side try very hard for it. But me thinking I wasn't gonna get anything simply began paddling softly. And lo and behold suddenly I'm thrust forward and am being carried all the way to the shore.
It's hilarious and feels super cool. Now I just need to learn how to stand on my low volume board not suited for a beginner.
Name could be "OMBE Wisdom Series" wisdom understood as knowledge applied in the present moment. One can have knowledge, but it is worthless without Wisdom.
The podcast is already named “in depth - a surfing podcast.” This episode came out a while ago on other platforms and is only now being uploaded to YT.
Position so the wave gives you a push. Miss the push and you go with the lip. It's important you get kinetic energy and not rotational energy by resisting the torque.
It's fatigue. And when you're fatigued you don't have enough confidence, emotional strength, all your faculties suffer. To combat this you need to know how to paddle and have enough board volume until you have the fitness.
Totally agree. Board knowledge and accepting what you should be riding is helpful.
First