PSA - on some Briggs engines the aluminum push rods are for exhaust. At some point they switched - make sure you look up a BOM for your specific engine to make sure you have them correct.
I think the idea for aluminum pushrod use was driving cost down weight reduction and damage mitigation. Cheaper lighter and If a rod was thrown the block wouldn't pay the price. If there was a notification to customers to get their valve lash checked every couple years, think of all the engine teardowns could be avoided but then again bent rods in the pan make me money
I use your vid as a reference when building a V-Twin. One thing to your subscribers, once your build is complete, pull you sparkplug wires off and use your starter, turning it over for 30 secs, to build oil pressure in the engine to make sure everything is lubed before firing. The assembly lube will keep things lubed until the oil takes over. It will still smoke, as said, but the engine will have the lubrication that's needed. I've done 7 of these without any issues. Happy rebuilding!
Cool video. Never seen the inside of the crankcase on a small engine. Replacing my head gasket this coming week and was surfing for tips when I ran up on your video. Good job explaining the ins and outs
I'm only 3 minutes into this and am already so damn grateful. Thanks mate. very well done for sure. I'll attempt my first rings replacement soon and this was great.
my old mower www.google.com/search?q=1999+yard+machine+17+hp+42+in&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiCn_PFt6DqAhUzGTQIHbGeB3sQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=1999+yard+machine+17+hp+42+in&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQA1CbrgJYicYCYKLSAmgAcAB4AIABiQGIAZEGkgEDMC42mAEAoAEBqgELZ3dzLXdpei1pbWc&sclient=img&ei=22n2XsLFC7Oy0PEPsb2e2Ac&bih=613&biw=1271&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS881US881#imgrc=DVbSFhVbRzqMIM
Best, most thorough and helpful presentation I've seen yet on the B&S, et al, twins. I have a 26 & 18 Vanguard, and a 21 Intel that I have to fix & this is invaluable! B&S manual falls waaaay short.
Thanks a bunch. I picked up a riding mower with almost the same engine and figured out I need to replace the piston rings. I've never worked on an engine and your video helps out so much. Thanks.
Thanks for the video and especially the PSA. My v-twin 18 vangaurd list the aluminum push rod as exhaust and the steel one as intake. Great video and explanation.
Thanks a bunch for the video. Yours was by far the best I found. BTW, as pointed out below, my Vanguard engine uses aluminum rods on the exhaust. Also, Briggs publishes a service manual (PN 272144 for Vanguard V-twin series) for each engine series that lists torque specs, service procedures, engine tear down & rebuild. The manual leaves out a lot of details (I guess it assumes the manual will only be used by service techs); but works well in conjunction with this video. I reached out to Briggs with my engine number and they sent me a full parts list (and the part number for the service manual). The manual is $23, but it was a good investment for me. Also, Briggs has changed the way they mark piston rings. My instruction sheet stated a 'T' would be stamped on the top side of the ring. The rings actually have an 'R' ('R' is placed to the right of the ring gap). The top ring is supposed to have one paint dot and middle ring two paint dots (but mine only had one dot on each set). The shinny ring is top most on my 16HP Vanguard.
This was covered but i figured it might help for someone.. Great video by the way !! Single Cylinder OHV - Model Series 260700, 261700 upper push rod (exhaust) is hollow. Model Series 28N700, 28Q700, 28U700, 28W700, 287707, 310700, 312700, 313700 exhaust push rod has a red band of paint for identification and is steel. Intek V-Twin OHV - Intake push rods are aluminum. Vanguard V-Twin - All models (except 540000, 610000) exhaust valve push rods are aluminum. Model Series 540000 and 610000, all push rods aluminum.
0:06 Thank you for this video! I know it is an older one but it was so very interesting and helpful. I have just finished rebuilding a 20hp B&S Vanguard. It turned out that it failed due to the cooling fins filling up with dirt, cuttings and detritus, and the exhaust valve seat moved and the valve wouldn’t close, so it was only running on one cylinder. The fix was to put a new seat in, lap all of the valves, replace one exhaust pushrod, and set the valve clearances before reassembling. It fired up first time and runs very smoothly. Thank you again!
As an inside tip, B&S assembly techs turn the crank to the bottom and push the piston down while turning. This insures that the connecting rod caps are at the bottom and easy to install and torque.
Incredible video man... I just bought a zero turn mower with a seized engine (I believe it may have threw a rod) that has a B&S V-Twin Intek in it (22hp). I would like to try to rebuild it myself and your steps gave me much more confidence about it. Thank you!
The original owner sounded like a “Hold my Beer I can do that “ kind of guy . This process is very intricate . I would educate myself thoroughly before going into this . And having a good clean dry place . Have 4 of these 35 v twins on boats and lawn engines . I know soon or later it will be my time . This is a great video . Thank you
Thank you for helping out a "youtube mechanic" like myself. I'd be like the guy you bought that engine from without videos like this. Much appreciation
Great video! I have a Snapper Z1404K ZTR that has had a 16hp Vanguard swapped on a few years back by my uncle. Spring mowing season is here, so I changed the oil and filter (both B&S spec as I have done for the 10 yrs I have owned the mower) and after a half hour of mowing "BAM! CRUNCH!" , so I shut her down quick. Checked the oil, level fine, let her cool off, starts up fine, but no power under load. I believe I have experienced the governor failure that seems common to these engines. I found another video detailing the specifics on that, but wanted more info on the actual tear down, which I got here! I think my uncle paid nearly $5k for the mower in the mid 90's, and my aunt had trouble with the original 14hp engine after he passed away and she had the new 16hp installed (around $2k after install (!)). It has been a great, trouble free mower (and was free to me), so I want to keep it going! Thanks again!
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I fear your problem is much more serious than a bad governor. Sounds like you broke a rod and are now running on one cylinder. Take out the plugs and put a straw or piece of plastic down until it touches the piston. Turn the engine over slowly by hand. Both straws should move. If one doesn't, you've got a broken rod
Great video! Suggestion, put thread sealant on the intake and exhaust rocker bolts to prevent oil leaking past the threads. Yes, they are thru-holes to the outside.
Hope you will take the oil pump cover off and install a small part, oil pump shaft, before you go into the rest of this rebuild. Good video and thanks a bunch.
great video one point missed when putting on the sump cover must pay close attention to the crank seal when going over the step on crank the id will roll out and take the inner spring out of the seal that seal must be tucked in when installed leak in the near future for sure
The manual for my Briggs Intek engine is specific on setting the valve clearances. Adjust cylinder one for compression tdc like you did and then using a pencil or gauge as a measure continue turning the engine until the piston goes past tdc and down by 1/4 inch. Set the cylinder 1 valve clearances here.This way you will be clear of any decompression lever valve lift. Now turn the flywheel through 270 degrees and you will be at Cylinder 2 compression stroke and 1/4 inch past TDC. Adjust cylinder 2 valve clearances at this position.
your manual is wrong because this is exactly what the briggs and Stratton manual for these engines say! 1.Set No. 1 cylinder at TDC, compression stroke. a.Adjust valves and check, Fig. 17. Valve Clearance (cold) IN and EX .005" (0.13 mm) b.Torque adjusting screws and jam nuts to 60 in. Ibs. (6.6 Nm). 2.Set No. 2 cylinder at TDC, compression stroke. a.Repeat for No. 2 cylinder.
The part about the crankcase gasket is 100% correct in all scenarios except the 23hp Briggs. The 23hp requires the red fiber gasket Briggs & Stratton part# 846487. If you don't use that gasket it'll leak and you won't create enough vacuum to drive the fuel pump properly.
I absolutely loved this video! I really want to get some practice working on engines and I was thinking of getting one of these to rebuild. Eventually, I want to see if I can build a go-kart and might try and use this engine when I rebuild it in the go-kart build. do you think that this engine would be good for a go-kart? If not would you have any recommendations on engines? I was looking on Facebook market and I found a "lawn tractor" with one of these engines in it. I love engines and I can't wait to get my hands on one! thank you so much for this video I love watching people build engines, and building anything to be honest! So thank you!
it's a good Idea o align your inake manifold to the cylinders before you torque them down. the slight play in each cylinder head can cause intake leaks if not aligned. Great video. I'mTrying to brush up on Briggs Engines. I want to run a Vertical Crank Briggs V-twin engine horizontally, want to avoi oil feed problems,Thanks, enjoyed video.
Isn’t that what the alignment dowels are for. If you was missing those I could see putting the intake on. I don’t think that’s gonna align the heads any better. Plus there’s intake gaskets that should seal it if it’s off a couple thousands.
The head gaskets tend to fail some, I have used spray copper coat on the head gaskets, and it tends to work great. It's important to keep the cooling fans and cooling fins clean also. If the fins are blocked, engine will overheat and can cause the valve seat to move in the head which can lead to a bent pushrod.
I'm just watching this video in 2020 because I'm about to rebuild my first v twin Briggs and I just wanted to say everything was helpful except for 1 piece of information. There's another UA-cam channel I watch by a man named Taryl and he said and I can also confirm that you can absolutely run all steel push rods and no aluminum rods without harming anything in the engine and again I know this to be a fact because I've done it.
Hey brah! Good vid. I have rebuilt many v twins some w newer blocks some w new sump n pan. Briggs refers to" to flywheel" not out.. pto or flywheel side
You can replace the alum rod with a steel. It won't hurt. I have made many sump gaskets with frozen pizza boxes over many years. Never had a problem. And have made gaskets of cereal boxes for cars and trucks.have been a motor head for 60 years. Never had one leak on anything. Use grease as gasket sealer. Good to see young people working with their hands.
Ive made many gaskets the same way, but I prefer the generic felpro gasket rolls you can buy at the auto parts stores now. Theyre more more resistant to moisture during the cutting process and they come in a variety of thicknesses. I can usually get several gaskets out of one $5 roll
Hey this is very good video because everything about your engine is the same as the Briggs engine I have for my craftsman riding mower. Just curious how come you did not continue the series up to the point of first start up after rebuilding it. Very good video.
side info: valves stay within temp range by the heat transfer that occurs to the head via the valve seat when the valve is closed, it require sufficient closed time, that's another reason why proper valve clearance is important.
Great video man. One question, when sliding the oil sump pan back on does the governor arm need to be up toward the base of the pan or forward toward the crank ?
Your video is great. Thank you! Do you have a video about governor assambly adjustment and throttle adjustment. I have Husqvarna YTH 22v46 (twin Briggs). I tried to adjust governor but when I try to started engine would go in to overspeed. Most likely there is something wrong with governor assembly device. Looking forward to hear from you. Thank you in advance!
Request for advice: I have this same engine (B&S Intek V Twin 22hp) on my zero turn mower, 13 years old. I apparently hadn't kept the exterior, especially under the shroud, properly cleaned of build up and debris over the years, although I've always blown all the visible grass and dust off the exterior after every mowing. Anyway, it recently failed - backfiring and knocking. I tried replacing the spark plugs - no change. Upon removing the rocker covers, I discovered two bent push rods on one of the cylinders, the other side appeared fine. These engines apparently are susceptible to the valve guides sliding out if they overheat (not enough ventilation, low oil, Texas heat, etc.). This was my situation. The steel push rod was completely dislodged and the aluminum push rod was bent but still in place. I replaced them both but first tapped the guides back down to where the needed to be (I believe), so it wouldn't happen again. After closing it back up and giving the exterior a thorough cleaning (looks almost like new now), the engine starts but has some issues: 1. It accelerates slowly, meaning that when I move the throttle to full, it takes a little longer to get up to that speed than it used to. Doesn't seem to be a big deal, but may be symptomatic of a problem. 2. When I engage the PTO, it bogs down considerably. I'm afraid that the bent push rods were just one of potential multiple problems. Can you suggest some diagnosis steps I should take to rule things out? It's probably obvious that I'm not a mechanic and don't have lots of specialized tools but I'm definitely willing to give it a shot rather than shell out $100s or $1000s if not absolutely necessary. Thank you for your time and for this detailed video!
Donald Smith there are 3 things you should check for. First, take the plugs out and carefully put a screwdriver in the hole until you touch the piston. Turn the engine over by hand and confirm the pistons are moving. Do this on both sides. Next check to make sure that the valves are adjusted properly. I set everything to .005" clearance. Finally, make sure you don't have blown head gaskets. You can remove the heads and do a visual check or you can do a leak down test. You can usually borrow a gauge from a auto shop.
Well, it either fixed itself overnight or (more likely) it was the rocker clearance. I first confirmed the pistons were moving (whew!). Then I checked the compression with a kit from a local auto shop - looked good and little to no leakage at rest. Lastly, I checked the valve rocker clearance. They were too tight so I adjusted them using the feeler gauge. Sewed it all back up and started it. Runs much better and the PTO engages nicely. Hopefully it will stay that way... Thanks for the tips!
Hey mbakken, what if you shined a torch down the spark plug hole turned the motor over and the piston doesn’t move? Have I got a broken con rod? One piston moves, one does not......
I'm having a hard time getting the engine cover off! Hanging on SOMETHING.. my brothers stepson had some trouble getting it started one day so he blew a hole in one of the Pistons with starting fluid so here I am tearing it down to rebuild, I can get the cover about 2 inches apart from the housing but can't get it off! Please advise..
It's possible, but usually not worth it unless you happen to have all the parts around. Youll need to modify the oil pump/pickup inside the crankcase, and source or fab intake pieces to rotate your carb 90deg. You would also need a new crankcase that has mounting holes on the bottom unless you want to make some beefy 90deg bracket that utilizes the mounting holes on the vertical sump cover.
Ring compressor is still easier and safer than trying to walk the ring and risk gouging the ring surface with a screwdriver. Just a couple taps to get it into the bore. Not trying to be nit picky, I know your method works, but takes more time and risks more potential damage, Not looking to get flamed on the comment like you mentioned, but for those that may not be as gentle with the screwdriver method, it may save some heartache so they dont't scuff the rings and have premature failure.. ;) Nice video nonetheless, :)
I have a robin v twin eh65 20 hp that pretty sure needs to be rebuilt .Im only getting 90 psi compression and after i did leak down test a lot of leakage through crank case.Whats your opinion on the robin engines are they worth putting time and money into.Or should i just try to look for a good running kohler or honda engine to replace it with
Hi, thank you for the video. I’ve been a DIYer since I bought my 1979 Z-28 over 40 years ago (still have it). This would be a something I would attempt if it wasn’t mowing season. My mower is a Craftsman PGT9000. Date code on the engine is 2010. It has just under 400 hrs. Model number is 49M77, Type 0791 C1, 28 HP, 810cc I started the mower on Sunday and immediately heard a loud noise from the right cylinder. My guess is a broken connecting rod. I cannot find a 28 HP replacement online after 2 days of searching. The B&S website is no help. You mentioned in the video that engines are available in the $800/900 price range. Can you point to a website or source for available engines? I understand the video is a few years old. Would you know if all the 25-28 HP V-twins have the same mounting bolt patterns? Is there a way to find out the output (crank) shaft length and diameter without disassembly? Sorry for so many questions.
This was a HUGE help Sir,,, thanks for taking the time to do this video. I want to resurface (take a bit off) of both of my heads. Where do I take the measurement with my calipers Before I hand sand the heads? and how much should I take off for a bit more compression?
Is the head mating surface not square/true? I'm betting it's more a problem with your valve seats than with the head seal. Simply sanding the head probably won't improve compression. With new head gaskets, it's more likely its either improperly seated valves or piston ring blow by that's causing low compression.
Thanks for tips and tricks from Hungary! I have a Stiga Park Royal, it has assembled with Intek v2 twin engine and it can't start because someone demagged on the timing shaft. At the start too high the pressure in the cilinders, the starter cant rotate the crankshaft. Maybe i have to change the camshaft.
try adjusting the valves correctly. There is no separate compression release mechanism on this engine.It relys on a very small 'bump' on the intake cams.If your valve clearance is over 5 thou ,it won't work.
Do you by chance have a video explaining the governor and what symptoms a broke one would do? I believe mine is damaged. It wont adjust and will only go full throttle.
Thanks for the video. I'm rebuilding an 18.5 right now . Ready for re assembly. I need a new piston and connecting rod #1 and gaskets . If you have a good parts source please let me know. Thanks again for your time
I missed the internal part of oil pump install, and governor position before you bolted sump on. Those are details i would like to see in video. You are very thorough.
miñe keeps popping out the intake I've put a new carb, no change, I've looked at valve rockers etc. and all look normal except the settings were not all the same, but vary between 4 to 6. could that be the issue? Is there a way to test coils?
If you don't have piston ring clamp you can get away with large hose clamps just adjust them so the rings are compressed enough to slide in the cylinder and the clamp will still slide off the end of the piston.
The thing is, when you have the hole thing broken down for rebuild, is there anything that can be done to give the engine more performance for light racing?
PSA - on some Briggs engines the aluminum push rods are for exhaust. At some point they switched - make sure you look up a BOM for your specific engine to make sure you have them correct.
All models except 540000, 610000 Exhaust valve push rods are aluminum. Models 540000, 610000 All push rods are aluminum!
You can also use all push rods steel they are the same size
I think the idea for aluminum pushrod use was driving cost down weight reduction and damage mitigation.
Cheaper lighter and If a rod was thrown the block wouldn't pay the price.
If there was a notification to customers to get their valve lash checked every couple years, think of all the engine teardowns could be avoided but then again bent rods in the pan make me money
I swear, how much more would it have cost to put needle bearings in the block
This is the best rebuilding of BS engine on utube and any one who is a DIY mechanic should follow along
I use your vid as a reference when building a V-Twin.
One thing to your subscribers, once your build is complete, pull you sparkplug wires off and use your starter, turning it over for 30 secs, to build oil pressure in the engine to make sure everything is lubed before firing. The assembly lube will keep things lubed until the oil takes over. It will still smoke, as said, but the engine will have the lubrication that's needed. I've done 7 of these without any issues. Happy rebuilding!
Cool video. Never seen the inside of the crankcase on a small engine. Replacing my head gasket this coming week and was surfing for tips when I ran up on your video. Good job explaining the ins and outs
I'm only 3 minutes into this and am already so damn grateful. Thanks mate. very well done for sure. I'll attempt my first rings replacement soon and this was great.
Excellent video. Learned a lot and eased my fears of attempting this alone. Thank you.
Great Video, your video really helped me out when I replaced the rings and gaskets in my Briggs V-Twin
Excellent video, I have finished the same engine and you have explained several steps that are not covered.
Your time and effort to make this video is appreciated. Helped me a good deal with rebuilding a 20hp intek vtwin. Thank You
my old mower www.google.com/search?q=1999+yard+machine+17+hp+42+in&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiCn_PFt6DqAhUzGTQIHbGeB3sQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=1999+yard+machine+17+hp+42+in&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQA1CbrgJYicYCYKLSAmgAcAB4AIABiQGIAZEGkgEDMC42mAEAoAEBqgELZ3dzLXdpei1pbWc&sclient=img&ei=22n2XsLFC7Oy0PEPsb2e2Ac&bih=613&biw=1271&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS881US881#imgrc=DVbSFhVbRzqMIM
I am looking for the v twin con rods
@@davidmwenda1958 try eBay. I got cylinder piston and rod I believe for around 50-75 barely used.
@@fredwardkruga6186 thanks I will do it
@@davidmwenda1958 qq free
Best, most thorough and helpful presentation I've seen yet on the B&S, et al, twins. I have a 26 & 18 Vanguard, and a 21 Intel that I have to fix & this is invaluable! B&S manual falls waaaay short.
Thanks a bunch. I picked up a riding mower with almost the same engine and figured out I need to replace the piston rings. I've never worked on an engine and your video helps out so much. Thanks.
Thanks for the video and especially the PSA. My v-twin 18 vangaurd list the aluminum push rod as exhaust and the steel one as intake. Great video and explanation.
I just get two more steel ones and replace the aluminium one with steel
This was outstanding man. Thank you!!!!
Awesome Video. this is how an engine rebuild tutorial should be.
Easy to Understand, even without a CGI animation of the cam lobes and crank position
Excellent video. Great detail and tips. Thanks for posting
Thanks a bunch for the video. Yours was by far the best I found. BTW, as pointed out below, my Vanguard engine uses aluminum rods on the exhaust. Also, Briggs publishes a service manual (PN 272144 for Vanguard V-twin series) for each engine series that lists torque specs, service procedures, engine tear down & rebuild. The manual leaves out a lot of details (I guess it assumes the manual will only be used by service techs); but works well in conjunction with this video. I reached out to Briggs with my engine number and they sent me a full parts list (and the part number for the service manual). The manual is $23, but it was a good investment for me. Also, Briggs has changed the way they mark piston rings. My instruction sheet stated a 'T' would be stamped on the top side of the ring. The rings actually have an 'R' ('R' is placed to the right of the ring gap). The top ring is supposed to have one paint dot and middle ring two paint dots (but mine only had one dot on each set). The shinny ring is top most on my 16HP Vanguard.
This was covered but i figured it might help for someone.. Great video by the way !!
Single Cylinder OHV - Model Series 260700, 261700 upper push rod (exhaust) is hollow. Model Series 28N700, 28Q700, 28U700, 28W700, 287707, 310700, 312700, 313700 exhaust push rod has a red band of paint for identification and is steel.
Intek V-Twin OHV - Intake push rods are aluminum.
Vanguard V-Twin - All models (except 540000, 610000) exhaust valve push rods are aluminum. Model Series 540000 and 610000, all push rods aluminum.
Great video. Thanks for passing on the knowledge.
An outstanding addition to my DIY bookmarks; thank you.
0:06 Thank you for this video! I know it is an older one but it was so very interesting and helpful. I have just finished rebuilding a 20hp B&S Vanguard. It turned out that it failed due to the cooling fins filling up with dirt, cuttings and detritus, and the exhaust valve seat moved and the valve wouldn’t close, so it was only running on one cylinder. The fix was to put a new seat in, lap all of the valves, replace one exhaust pushrod, and set the valve clearances before reassembling. It fired up first time and runs very smoothly. Thank you again!
As an inside tip, B&S assembly techs turn the crank to the bottom and push the piston down while turning. This insures that the connecting rod caps are at the bottom and easy to install and torque.
New to this, but this was an excellent video. I am confident to tear into one. I can always take it to someone like you to finish
Awesome video, great detail. Really helped me on my rebuild just wish I’d found it sooner!
Incredible video man... I just bought a zero turn mower with a seized engine (I believe it may have threw a rod) that has a B&S V-Twin Intek in it (22hp). I would like to try to rebuild it myself and your steps gave me much more confidence about it. Thank you!
Mate this is an awesome video. Thank you for taking the time to do it.
Cheers
an excellent presentation and very informative, many thanks.
The original owner sounded like a “Hold my Beer I can do that “ kind of guy . This process is very intricate . I would educate myself thoroughly before going into this . And having a good clean dry place . Have 4 of these 35 v twins on boats and lawn engines . I know soon or later it will be my time . This is a great video . Thank you
It's not really that difficult of a job.
10/10 - many thanks for taking the time to share !
This is a great video to learn from! Thank you!!
Some great tips many thanks.
loved the Bob Ross reference around @17:00 mark. it was a happy accident
Thank you for helping out a "youtube mechanic" like myself. I'd be like the guy you bought that engine from without videos like this. Much appreciation
Really appreciate this. Thanks for a video.
Great video! I have a Snapper Z1404K ZTR that has had a 16hp Vanguard swapped on a few years back by my uncle. Spring mowing season is here, so I changed the oil and filter (both B&S spec as I have done for the 10 yrs I have owned the mower) and after a half hour of mowing "BAM! CRUNCH!" , so I shut her down quick. Checked the oil, level fine, let her cool off, starts up fine, but no power under load. I believe I have experienced the governor failure that seems common to these engines. I found another video detailing the specifics on that, but wanted more info on the actual tear down, which I got here! I think my uncle paid nearly $5k for the mower in the mid 90's, and my aunt had trouble with the original 14hp engine after he passed away and she had the new 16hp installed (around $2k after install (!)). It has been a great, trouble free mower (and was free to me), so I want to keep it going! Thanks again!
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I fear your problem is much more serious than a bad governor. Sounds like you broke a rod and are now running on one cylinder. Take out the plugs and put a straw or piece of plastic down until it touches the piston. Turn the engine over slowly by hand. Both straws should move. If one doesn't, you've got a broken rod
thank you for the videos they are really good
Great video, very informative. Thank you so much.
Excellent video, keep up the good work.
Thank you so much for this video.
Great video! Suggestion, put thread sealant on the intake and exhaust rocker bolts to prevent oil leaking past the threads. Yes, they are thru-holes to the outside.
...Thank you so much for posting this....
Very good video very informative thank you
Brilliant informative video as was your video about setting up the govenor arrangement
awsome video you saved my build
Great video.. Thanks very much!
wow!! so well done :) . thank you for all the info. !!
very well presented
Awesome video.
hEY BUDDY. Great video. TY!
Nothing more cathartic than watching an engine build. Don't know what it is.
Awesome video
great video!!
Awsome video, thank you
This is a very good video
Hope you will take the oil pump cover off and install a small part, oil pump shaft, before you go into the rest of this rebuild. Good video and thanks a bunch.
Awesome video thanks for your help! I wish you make a video for kohler command pro 27 rebuilt!!!
great video one point missed when putting on the sump cover must pay close attention to the crank seal when going over the step on crank the id will roll out and take the inner spring out of the seal that seal must be tucked in when installed leak in the near future for sure
Thanks i appreciate the video
The manual for my Briggs Intek engine is specific on setting the valve clearances. Adjust cylinder one for compression tdc like you did and then using a pencil or gauge as a measure continue turning the engine until the piston goes past tdc and down by 1/4 inch. Set the cylinder 1 valve clearances here.This way you will be clear of any decompression lever valve lift. Now turn the flywheel through 270 degrees and you will be at Cylinder 2 compression stroke and 1/4 inch past TDC. Adjust cylinder 2 valve clearances at this position.
your manual is wrong because this is exactly what the briggs and Stratton manual for these engines say!
1.Set No. 1 cylinder at TDC, compression stroke. a.Adjust valves and check, Fig. 17. Valve Clearance (cold) IN and EX .005" (0.13 mm) b.Torque adjusting screws and jam nuts to 60 in. Ibs. (6.6 Nm). 2.Set No. 2 cylinder at TDC, compression stroke. a.Repeat for No. 2 cylinder.
I just wait until one valve is fully open
Great info. Do you have any videos on kholer engines?
The part about the crankcase gasket is 100% correct in all scenarios except the 23hp Briggs. The 23hp requires the red fiber gasket Briggs
& Stratton part# 846487. If you don't use that gasket it'll leak and you won't create enough vacuum to drive the fuel pump properly.
The 5/16" rocker bolts are metric too... 8mm and 5/16" are almost an exact match anyway and you can use either socket.
Good video and thank you for it. One question: Why don't the ring squeezer work on the rings?
I build Kohler singles and twins for tractor pulling, surprisingly similar
Use a plier type ring compressor to install pistons, won’t scar rings. Some of our ring packages are very pricey for high performance
I absolutely loved this video! I really want to get some practice working on engines and I was thinking of getting one of these to rebuild. Eventually, I want to see if I can build a go-kart and might try and use this engine when I rebuild it in the go-kart build. do you think that this engine would be good for a go-kart? If not would you have any recommendations on engines? I was looking on Facebook market and I found a "lawn tractor" with one of these engines in it. I love engines and I can't wait to get my hands on one! thank you so much for this video I love watching people build engines, and building anything to be honest! So thank you!
it's a good Idea o align your inake manifold to the cylinders before you torque them down. the slight play in each cylinder head can cause intake leaks if not aligned. Great video. I'mTrying to brush up on Briggs Engines. I want to run a Vertical Crank Briggs V-twin engine horizontally, want to avoi oil feed problems,Thanks, enjoyed video.
Isn’t that what the alignment dowels are for. If you was missing those I could see putting the intake on. I don’t think that’s gonna align the heads any better. Plus there’s intake gaskets that should seal it if it’s off a couple thousands.
The head gaskets tend to fail some, I have used spray copper coat on the head gaskets, and it tends to work great. It's important to keep the cooling fans and cooling fins clean also. If the fins are blocked, engine will overheat and can cause the valve seat to move in the head which can lead to a bent pushrod.
I have been painting with aluminum paint both sides and it’s working great, some are 4 years old now
I use aluminum paint on both sides
You mean the valve guide moves the valve seat is what the valve seals against
I'm just watching this video in 2020 because I'm about to rebuild my first v twin Briggs and I just wanted to say everything was helpful except for 1 piece of information. There's another UA-cam channel I watch by a man named Taryl and he said and I can also confirm that you can absolutely run all steel push rods and no aluminum rods without harming anything in the engine and again I know this to be a fact because I've done it.
Hey brah! Good vid. I have rebuilt many v twins some w newer blocks some w new sump n pan. Briggs refers to" to flywheel" not out.. pto or flywheel side
You can replace the alum rod with a steel. It won't hurt. I have made many sump gaskets with frozen pizza boxes over many years. Never had a problem. And have made gaskets of cereal boxes for cars and trucks.have been a motor head for 60 years. Never had one leak on anything. Use grease as gasket sealer. Good to see young people working with their hands.
Ive made many gaskets the same way, but I prefer the generic felpro gasket rolls you can buy at the auto parts stores now. Theyre more more resistant to moisture during the cutting process and they come in a variety of thicknesses. I can usually get several gaskets out of one $5 roll
I always walk in my piston rings and hand torque bolts on small engines. This ain't NASCAR..... Great video, thanks!
Thanks for this good job , but why are you not using rings helper in your piston ?
Hey this is very good video because everything about your engine is the same as the Briggs engine I have for my craftsman riding mower.
Just curious how come you did not continue the series up to the point of first start up after rebuilding it.
Very good video.
side info: valves stay within temp range by the heat transfer that occurs to the head via the valve seat when the valve is closed, it require sufficient closed time, that's another reason why proper valve clearance is important.
Why aluminum intake push rods? Do Kohler and Kawasaki different use this configuration too?
Great video man. One question, when sliding the oil sump pan back on does the governor arm need to be up toward the base of the pan or forward toward the crank ?
Doesn't really matter until you hook the springs and linkages up later
Your video is great. Thank you! Do you have a video about governor assambly adjustment and throttle adjustment. I have Husqvarna YTH 22v46 (twin Briggs). I tried to adjust governor but when I try to started engine would go in to overspeed. Most likely there is something wrong with governor assembly device. Looking forward to hear from you. Thank you in advance!
Request for advice: I have this same engine (B&S Intek V Twin 22hp) on my zero turn mower, 13 years old. I apparently hadn't kept the exterior, especially under the shroud, properly cleaned of build up and debris over the years, although I've always blown all the visible grass and dust off the exterior after every mowing. Anyway, it recently failed - backfiring and knocking. I tried replacing the spark plugs - no change. Upon removing the rocker covers, I discovered two bent push rods on one of the cylinders, the other side appeared fine. These engines apparently are susceptible to the valve guides sliding out if they overheat (not enough ventilation, low oil, Texas heat, etc.). This was my situation. The steel push rod was completely dislodged and the aluminum push rod was bent but still in place. I replaced them both but first tapped the guides back down to where the needed to be (I believe), so it wouldn't happen again. After closing it back up and giving the exterior a thorough cleaning (looks almost like new now), the engine starts but has some issues:
1. It accelerates slowly, meaning that when I move the throttle to full, it takes a little longer to get up to that speed than it used to. Doesn't seem to be a big deal, but may be symptomatic of a problem.
2. When I engage the PTO, it bogs down considerably.
I'm afraid that the bent push rods were just one of potential multiple problems. Can you suggest some diagnosis steps I should take to rule things out? It's probably obvious that I'm not a mechanic and don't have lots of specialized tools but I'm definitely willing to give it a shot rather than shell out $100s or $1000s if not absolutely necessary.
Thank you for your time and for this detailed video!
Donald Smith there are 3 things you should check for. First, take the plugs out and carefully put a screwdriver in the hole until you touch the piston. Turn the engine over by hand and confirm the pistons are moving. Do this on both sides. Next check to make sure that the valves are adjusted properly. I set everything to .005" clearance. Finally, make sure you don't have blown head gaskets. You can remove the heads and do a visual check or you can do a leak down test. You can usually borrow a gauge from a auto shop.
Thank you for the quick response. I'll try those today!
Well, it either fixed itself overnight or (more likely) it was the rocker clearance. I first confirmed the pistons were moving (whew!). Then I checked the compression with a kit from a local auto shop - looked good and little to no leakage at rest. Lastly, I checked the valve rocker clearance. They were too tight so I adjusted them using the feeler gauge. Sewed it all back up and started it. Runs much better and the PTO engages nicely. Hopefully it will stay that way... Thanks for the tips!
Hey mbakken, what if you shined a torch down the spark plug hole turned the motor over and the piston doesn’t move? Have I got a broken con rod? One piston moves, one does not......
I'm having a hard time getting the engine cover off! Hanging on SOMETHING.. my brothers stepson had some trouble getting it started one day so he blew a hole in one of the Pistons with starting fluid so here I am tearing it down to rebuild, I can get the cover about 2 inches apart from the housing but can't get it off! Please advise..
I use Lucas break in oil for break in..Retired Larry in Indianapolis....
Great video, is it possible to cover vertical crank to horizontal running?
It's possible, but usually not worth it unless you happen to have all the parts around. Youll need to modify the oil pump/pickup inside the crankcase, and source or fab intake pieces to rotate your carb 90deg. You would also need a new crankcase that has mounting holes on the bottom unless you want to make some beefy 90deg bracket that utilizes the mounting holes on the vertical sump cover.
Is the 24hp the same as 20,22 hp as far as timing marks ? Thanks for this video helps me a lot
Do you have a video of how to work the heads or polishing the crank?
Ring compressor is still easier and safer than trying to walk the ring and risk gouging the ring surface with a screwdriver. Just a couple taps to get it into the bore. Not trying to be nit picky, I know your method works, but takes more time and risks more potential damage, Not looking to get flamed on the comment like you mentioned, but for those that may not be as gentle with the screwdriver method, it may save some heartache so they dont't scuff the rings and have premature failure.. ;) Nice video nonetheless, :)
I have a generac v-twin with a broken rod. Typically when these v-twins break a rod, what else gets torn up? Block, Valve Train, ETC?
I have a robin v twin eh65 20 hp that pretty sure needs to be rebuilt .Im only getting 90 psi compression and after i did leak down test a lot of leakage through crank case.Whats your opinion on the robin engines are they worth putting time and money into.Or should i just try to look for a good running kohler or honda engine to replace it with
Hi, thank you for the video. I’ve been a DIYer since I bought my 1979 Z-28 over 40 years ago (still have it). This would be a something I would attempt if it wasn’t mowing season. My mower is a Craftsman PGT9000. Date code on the engine is 2010. It has just under 400 hrs. Model number is 49M77, Type 0791 C1, 28 HP, 810cc I started the mower on Sunday and immediately heard a loud noise from the right cylinder. My guess is a broken connecting rod. I cannot find a 28 HP replacement online after 2 days of searching. The B&S website is no help. You mentioned in the video that engines are available in the $800/900 price range. Can you point to a website or source for available engines? I understand the video is a few years old. Would you know if all the 25-28 HP V-twins have the same mounting bolt patterns? Is there a way to find out the output (crank) shaft length and diameter without disassembly? Sorry for so many questions.
This was a HUGE help Sir,,, thanks for taking the time to do this video. I want to resurface (take a bit off) of both of my heads. Where do I take the measurement with my calipers Before I hand sand the heads? and how much should I take off for a bit more compression?
Is the head mating surface not square/true? I'm betting it's more a problem with your valve seats than with the head seal. Simply sanding the head probably won't improve compression. With new head gaskets, it's more likely its either improperly seated valves or piston ring blow by that's causing low compression.
Thanks for tips and tricks from Hungary!
I have a Stiga Park Royal, it has assembled with Intek v2 twin engine and it can't start because someone demagged on the timing shaft. At the start too high the pressure in the cilinders, the starter cant rotate the crankshaft. Maybe i have to change the camshaft.
try adjusting the valves correctly. There is no separate compression release mechanism on this engine.It relys on a very small 'bump' on the intake cams.If your valve clearance is over 5 thou ,it won't work.
Do you by chance have a video explaining the governor and what symptoms a broke one would do? I believe mine is damaged. It wont adjust and will only go full throttle.
Think I’ve watching this for the 6 time
Thanks for the video. I'm rebuilding an 18.5 right now . Ready for re assembly. I need a new piston and connecting rod #1 and gaskets . If you have a good parts source please let me know. Thanks again for your time
ebay for used parts, pats small engine for new
I missed the internal part of oil pump install, and governor position before you bolted sump on. Those are details i would like to see in video. You are very thorough.
Where did you get the parts from?
miñe keeps popping out the intake I've put a new carb, no change, I've looked at valve rockers etc. and all look normal except the settings were not all the same, but vary between 4 to 6. could that be the issue? Is there a way to test coils?
If you don't have piston ring clamp you can get away with large hose clamps just adjust them so the rings are compressed enough to slide in the cylinder and the clamp will still slide off the end of the piston.
I have multiple, I just don't like them. I've also used zip ties, but they're clumsy
The thing is, when you have the hole thing broken down for rebuild, is there anything that can be done to give the engine more performance for light racing?
Where do you get the rebuild kits from
Good job mbakken11
Where can I get the torque figures for 49m877. Can’t find them anywhere
Thanks
Van someone answer a question when tore mine 18hp apart the steel rod was in the intake valve not exhaust