Nice Video, I just replaced my upper cable and mid cable on mine. I will say though I am surprised you removed the entire brake peddle assembly...all this can be done without removing any of the assembly, don't have to remove wires or the box either....Slide the cable up from the bottom of the truck and pull the cable up and over the assembly, it goes right around, then push the grommet through with a small flat head.
Thanks for this comment Dustin. You saved me a lot of time doing some unnecessary stuff this video guided it's viewers to perform. I just used your suggestion in contrast to the instruction on the video and found no issue with leaving the E Brake assembly alone and intact along with that ECU box. I did pull up the step trim piece and molding underneath to get a better view after rolling back my carpet. I never had to open my hood and mess with any wires. I had a little trouble getting the barrel to feed with all the play when refeeding the wire in the E brake assembly so I fashioned a small hook out of coat hanger to grab the fed wire and pull the barrel seat at the end to the barrel lock. Most of my time was actually spent dremeling a notch in the opposite end 'in line' barrel under the truck to get it to release cleanly from the coupler so I didn't damage that coupler which in turn would require an additional wire to replace. It had rusted firmly in place. I gained enough slack to drop that wire by going to the front of the rear tire under the truck and disconnecting the wire where it joins to split and send a wire to each rear tire. Happy wrenching fellas! GL!
How’d you get the piece to pop in without removing the assembly. Can’t get it pop in Edit: just hook it all up and depressed the pedal, it will pull the top end of cable guide into the assembly with a pop
By far the most concise and coherent repair video I have ever watched. Worlds above the stumbling, time wasting mishmash that usually accompanies UA-cam repair videos. Thanks for showing how it can be done.
TRQ, Great video, I needed to watch it.. I didn't want to remove the PCM or the pedal bracket.. just to replace the front brake cable.. After removing the old broken cable I was able to feed the new cable down then pull the upper cable up into the locking slot with a piece of tie wire. Once back under, I disconnected the cable at the rear wheel, by hand for extra slack. Back up front I fed the new cable into the coupler and crimped it tight.. Making sure that the b pedal was up, I pulled the slack out at the rear wheel connection and connected the one to the two cable bracket..by hand again easy as pie.. I used a Raybestos cable I bought from Oreily's.. thought it might be too short.. but it was just right.. maybe a hair shorter but no hang ups on the tension.. Thanks for your video.. it took me about a hour and a 1/2.. but I'm slowing down..
+Victor Bombardieri Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Thank you for the video. Like other commenters, I did not remove the pedal assembly. I did replace the front and intermediate cables and it was much easier to connect the intermediate to the two rear cables last than to try to connect the intermediate to the front as the last step. I pulled and tugged but was not able to connect the intermediate to the front cable.
Nice, clear and concise vid. One suggestion is that to gain slack in the cables for working on them, it is easier to separate the cables at transition point further back at the bridge where the single cable from the front joins the two cables that go to the rear wheels. Your method worked as well, though. What year is your truck and where are you located. Here in Southern Commiefornia, we don't get rust like that, so wow. I have an '01 F350 and the coil spring that retracts the ebrake pedal FELL OUT of the assembly, after the pedal locked in the released position and it is not clear how it fits back in. This is on the new genuine assembly I installed in July, 2019. Naturally, the part is now discontinued... Thanks, Ford.
I avoided this job for months because of not wanting to deal with removing the module and pedal assembly. When I finally built up the motivation, i was pleasantly surprised to find all that was completely unnecessary. I was able to unseat and pull the old one out, and fish the new one through the channel and properly seat it with minimal effort. I removed the interior trim, but that was it. And i had the added obstacle of a clutch pedal. Im hoping the steps in this video are results of an over-engineered service manual, and not steering people to perform extra steps because a longer video generates greater ad revenue...
Cable comes short of the coupling underneath by almost 2 1/2” . The new cable is an exact copy of the original! The cable broke inside the truck at the mechanism connection !
Nice video, but I have a slightly different problem. The release lever is broken just past the pivot point. When I pull the lever, the inside half of the lever doesn’t move and consequently, doesn’t pull on the cable. How do I remove and replace the release handle assembly? I haven’t found any obvious bolts. It kind of looks like the assembly is attached with rivets? to a non-removable horizontal piece of steel, that looks like some sort of inner dashboard. What am I missing? How do I get the assembly out and the replacement in? Thanks. Brian 2006 F250
ONCE AGAIN it should specify IT'S FOR THE PEDAL CABLE ONLY . . Why wouldn't anyone think of this? I pulled out my molding n the plastic n a pain removing the nuts with hand tools then popping out the light switch before realizing there is not going to be an adjustment back there anywhere . . It was not a good day . . Plus all the rest of the added bull in my life . .
How do you know what length of cable you need? I would like to change the whole entire cable from front to rear on my 2000 f250 7.3l 4x4, it’s an extended cab long bed
Your upper cable is the same length on all of them, it is the mid cable that is different lengths. You have to make sure to get the correct one for your wheel base.
Awesome step by step. That brake cable must be made out of mithril as trying to cut it ruined two pairs of dikes and a $75 Knipex cable cutters. I had to use an oxyacetylene torch to cut it.
Something you left out, either intentionally or unintentionally, he sent them to a U.S. embassy like a day before the competition, and they approved them and they got to play in the tournament
Not a bad video, but for the love of GAWD can you quit calling it an “E brake” or “emergency brake”? It isn’t! It’s a parking brake! It will do next to NOTHING in the event of service brake failure. I’ll admit when I was a teenager back in the 80s I called it an ebrake, but after doing factory training for several manufacturers over 3 decades I stand corrected, and you should too 🙂
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Nice Video, I just replaced my upper cable and mid cable on mine. I will say though I am surprised you removed the entire brake peddle assembly...all this can be done without removing any of the assembly, don't have to remove wires or the box either....Slide the cable up from the bottom of the truck and pull the cable up and over the assembly, it goes right around, then push the grommet through with a small flat head.
Thanks for this comment Dustin. You saved me a lot of time doing some unnecessary stuff this video guided it's viewers to perform.
I just used your suggestion in contrast to the instruction on the video and found no issue with leaving the E Brake assembly alone and intact along with that ECU box. I did pull up the step trim piece and molding underneath to get a better view after rolling back my carpet. I never had to open my hood and mess with any wires.
I had a little trouble getting the barrel to feed with all the play when refeeding the wire in the E brake assembly so I fashioned a small hook out of coat hanger to grab the fed wire and pull the barrel seat at the end to the barrel lock. Most of my time was actually spent dremeling a notch in the opposite end 'in line' barrel under the truck to get it to release cleanly from the coupler so I didn't damage that coupler which in turn would require an additional wire to replace. It had rusted firmly in place. I gained enough slack to drop that wire by going to the front of the rear tire under the truck and disconnecting the wire where it joins to split and send a wire to each rear tire. Happy wrenching fellas! GL!
How’d you get the piece to pop in without removing the assembly. Can’t get it pop in
Edit: just hook it all up and depressed the pedal, it will pull the top end of cable guide into the assembly with a pop
By far the most concise and coherent repair video I have ever watched. Worlds above the stumbling, time wasting mishmash that usually accompanies UA-cam repair videos. Thanks for showing how it can be done.
+Tom Forker Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
TRQ, Great video, I needed to watch it.. I didn't want to remove the PCM or the pedal bracket.. just to replace the front brake cable.. After removing the old broken cable I was able to feed the new cable down then pull the upper cable up into the locking slot with a piece of tie wire. Once back under, I disconnected the cable at the rear wheel, by hand for extra slack. Back up front I fed the new cable into the coupler and crimped it tight.. Making sure that the b pedal was up, I pulled the slack out at the rear wheel connection and connected the one to the two cable bracket..by hand again easy as pie.. I used a Raybestos cable I bought from Oreily's.. thought it might be too short.. but it was just right.. maybe a hair shorter but no hang ups on the tension.. Thanks for your video.. it took me about a hour and a 1/2.. but I'm slowing down..
+Victor Bombardieri Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Top notch video angles and steps. Hats off to you for your efforts. Thank you
Family auto and transmission placer county ca
Thank you for the video. Like other commenters, I did not remove the pedal assembly.
I did replace the front and intermediate cables and it was much easier to connect the intermediate to the two rear cables last than to try to connect the intermediate to the front as the last step. I pulled and tugged but was not able to connect the intermediate to the front cable.
Nice, clear and concise vid. One suggestion is that to gain slack in the cables for working on them, it is easier to separate the cables at transition point further back at the bridge where the single cable from the front joins the two cables that go to the rear wheels. Your method worked as well, though. What year is your truck and where are you located. Here in Southern Commiefornia, we don't get rust like that, so wow. I have an '01 F350 and the coil spring that retracts the ebrake pedal FELL OUT of the assembly, after the pedal locked in the released position and it is not clear how it fits back in. This is on the new genuine assembly I installed in July, 2019. Naturally, the part is now discontinued... Thanks, Ford.
Great video. Very thorough. Thanks!
I avoided this job for months because of not wanting to deal with removing the module and pedal assembly. When I finally built up the motivation, i was pleasantly surprised to find all that was completely unnecessary. I was able to unseat and pull the old one out, and fish the new one through the channel and properly seat it with minimal effort. I removed the interior trim, but that was it. And i had the added obstacle of a clutch pedal. Im hoping the steps in this video are results of an over-engineered service manual, and not steering people to perform extra steps because a longer video generates greater ad revenue...
Cable comes short of the coupling underneath by almost 2 1/2” . The new cable is an exact copy of the original! The cable broke inside the truck at the mechanism connection !
Great video.... thanks. Still was a pita.
Saved me again thanks
Thanks For sharing nice video
Is this what you do for a Cab removal?
Nice video, but I have a slightly different problem. The release lever is broken just past the pivot point. When I pull the lever, the inside half of the lever doesn’t move and consequently, doesn’t pull on the cable. How do I remove and replace the release handle assembly? I haven’t found any obvious bolts. It kind of looks like the assembly is attached with rivets? to a non-removable horizontal piece of steel, that looks like some sort of inner dashboard. What am I missing? How do I get the assembly out and the replacement in? Thanks. Brian 2006 F250
Do you sell the Parking Brake Cable Connectors that connect the front cable, to the middle cable?
ONCE AGAIN it should specify IT'S FOR THE PEDAL CABLE ONLY . . Why wouldn't anyone think of this?
I pulled out my molding n the plastic n a pain removing the nuts with hand tools then popping out the light switch before realizing there is not going to be an adjustment back there anywhere . .
It was not a good day . . Plus all the rest of the added bull in my life . .
What is the tool used to compress the spring? Please, anyone know?
How do you know what length of cable you need? I would like to change the whole entire cable from front to rear on my 2000 f250 7.3l 4x4, it’s an extended cab long bed
Your upper cable is the same length on all of them, it is the mid cable that is different lengths. You have to make sure to get the correct one for your wheel base.
Good luck with that, I'm doing one on a single cab f350 and no one can get me the right length. Ford dealership included!
Awesome step by step. That brake cable must be made out of mithril as trying to cut it ruined two pairs of dikes and a $75 Knipex cable cutters. I had to use an oxyacetylene torch to cut it.
+@teamja1088 Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Quite the operation for an e brake.
What about the other cables...to the rear axle?
Something you left out, either intentionally or unintentionally, he sent them to a U.S. embassy like a day before the competition, and they approved them and they got to play in the tournament
Alot of work for parking brake
What city are you in? I hope Atl.
Not a bad video, but for the love of GAWD can you quit calling it an “E brake” or “emergency brake”? It isn’t! It’s a parking brake! It will do next to NOTHING in the event of service brake failure. I’ll admit when I was a teenager back in the 80s I called it an ebrake, but after doing factory training for several manufacturers over 3 decades I stand corrected, and you should too 🙂
You just save me today at work 🥹🫶😂