I just had to replace a section of fence I installed with my dad back in 1994. As I was trying to pull and dig up the posts all I could hear in my head was my dad saying back in the day “I hope you move before these need to be replaced”. I never moved and after 16 posts removed with concrete, several beers and pills he is laughing from heaven.
kev docks I never liked that because now you have all of these concrete blocks in your yard. In 20 years you have even more concrete blocks. Where does it end? I know you would say well that is not my problem some day. Well it will be somebody’s problem. Just seems like a shitty attitude to have in my opinion.
I have done this for many years, also all piers for decks. It helps to poke the concrete with a 5ft bar to let water mix in and trapped air out . Many people are sceptical about this method and I always say think about that bag of concrete or mortar that you left in the shed or garage for a year and it is rock solid, just from moisture in the air.
Yeah, the stuff is like magic, in my experience. Like you say, it will turn to stone just from humidity! It sucks a lot of moisture from the surrounding soil. You just about can't screw it up--which is important when I'm doing the work myself :-)
I just did two posts, one was the dump and pour method, the other I mixed in a wheelbarrow and dumped/shoveled in. The dump and pour filled in around the post better. Easier, cleaner, and quicker. Thanks for verifying that it works.
The comments about this being the lazy way, or somehow inferior, are kind of funny. What concrete in this situation needs to do, as far as the stress it undergoes, is practically zero, and that goes for this situation with gate posts too. No one is building an airport runway here. In this case the concrete is practically nothing more than ballast when you get right down to it. One of the real unappreciated skills in engineering is being smart enough to not build to a higher standard than what you need, whether that's in terms of strength, cost, or the required effort. Good video!
I'm using this stuff to fill concrete blocks. The blocks hold the weight, the fast-set mix locks them together and anchors the rebar. It's good stuff for my application.
I find that older people generally think doing things the most labour intensive and expensive way possible is always the best way, its not most of the time
@@bluesbrother2383 As an older person, I can say doing things the most labor intensive and expensive way IS the best way if someone else is doing the labor and paying for it. If I'm doing it myself, I agree with you wholeheartedly. 😉
@steve timleck On a bag of concrete it'll say the recommended amount of water to add. If you do that, you'll more than likely reach the rated strength of the concrete. (4000psi or 5000psi for example). [(I say "more than likely" because wet curing your concrete is important too. If it's 90° and dry as a bone out, your concrete will dry out too fast and also not reach full strength. After the concrete sets it's a good idea to hose it down a couple times a day for a good week or so, or run a sprinkler on it for a few days at least.)] ...Any water you add in addition to that is considered "water of convenience". It may make it easier to work with, but it'll weaken the strength. If you want more workability, but also want max strength, you can add a plasticizer to the mix. It's like water in a bag.. gives you liquidity without compromising strength.
Just from watching you have to move the equipment back and forth to loosen the post tells me it's done a good job. I've been using quikrete and sakrete for 35 years. Have built dozens of decks and it's always preformed well.
I used this method when I built my shed in 2009. The estimate of 25 bags of concrete for an 8'x8'x2' base was prohibitive for me, so I dug five two-feet holes. I used 12-inch diameter form tubes, since this was my first time working with concrete. I set a 4x4 in each tube. Eleven years later, through a few severe winters, very wet years, super-storm Sandy, a few more hurricanes and she still stands. I built her with no plans with minor skills and less experience, so I have had to rebuild the roof and still need to improve the framing, but the base is solid. I have used this method twice to set two plant hangers. I did not use the entire bag for either, because these were the 1/4-inch metal hangers. They too have stood the test of time.
This is the coolest video I've seen in a long time. Granted that these days a long time is about a day and a quarter but it was still awesome to watch.
Thanks for demonstrating how that method works. I'm also glad to see that I'm not the only one who absentmindedly leaves tools that I'm not using in harm's way.
I'll be using this same product today to set a steel post in the ground as a base support for an antenna. Thanks for the video, it's good to know the fast-setting quikrete works using the dump and pour method.
Thank you! I am about to set a few steel posts with this stuff. I have never used this particular fast setting Quikrete. Your video puts my mind to ease.
From a novice: awesome video! This was a very clever way to test the effectiveness of Quikrete for setting a post. I'll be getting my Quikrete today. Thanks and best wishes.
His hole was not deep enough. Use a full bag and tamp around the post. You don’t need any water but if you want a couple qts will work fine. Concrete gets harder over time. Believe it or not it takes 100 years to fully cure.
This stuff works amazing, I used my 6” wide auger 3 ft down without a problem yes it seems dry but really does work, another method we did which made it way easier was fill the hole 3/4 of the way up with water first then pour then quikrete into the hole after so that it wets it evenly any excess water will overflow out of the hole and the concrete will stay where it needs to be, not sure if there’s a problem with too much water. Set 170 post this way on the farm and no problem to date. Pulled a post out like in your video and no problem to 36” down they set in about an hour as well not sure what full cure time is but easy to set and walk away from with no problem or worries!
Great review sir thank you for posting this video as I’m an hour away from setting an 8x8 post for the second time. This time however,I will be using the quick Crete in this video 🇺🇸
Great video. Nice to know that the concrete bonds without mixing. I've always wondered about that. Thanks for doing this objective test. You just saved me a $hit ton of work!
Been installing fence for 21 years now and I pour the concrete in and then pour water on it.. never ..not one time have I had to go back to a wobbly post..... never
I usually put water in at bottom and mid. However I hired a guy who worked fir an older company that said the did water on top as well. They’d been doing it for decades. Seems really fast. And he swirled the post around and around in the dry mix to let it settle hard. I thought he was nuts at the time. Maybe not after all.
Thank you for your time and help with this very helpful. Title got me worried the stuff is really bad. I guess you got our attention with title. Slick!
Even if the water don't get to all the crete the moisture in the ground will eventually curit all ....in desert environments could probably take a bitt
Answered some of my questions! I'm a little bitty lady and mixing the concrete with water first the traditional way (wheelbarrow) and then putting it in the hole vs. putting in the Quikcrete and then the water makes my life - and project - so much easier!!
Good job on this. I’ve always mixed it in a wheel barrow and poured the slop in around the posts which always settled even with the top of the ground. This way is definitely easier.
Thanks! always wondered why quickrete didn't do this as well, setting posts in 2 days, now I know, thanks for ripping your post out....can I borrow your tractor?
The gallon of water is to just set it. It's the moisture in the ground that is absorbed by the concrete mix that gives you the permanent set. I have built over 1,200 decks customers we're always questioning the technique, dry set.
There wouldn't happen to be a book you could recommend on deck building, would there? I'd like to learn how but don't know anyone with experience. Thanks in advance!
I've dry poured walkways with this mix. As long as it's properly cured, it's strong. I've never used this for heavy applications tho (driveways, foundations, etc.)
Excellent demonstration - I'm going to show my husband. He's extremely skeptical and thought we should rent a mixer to set the posts of the fence we are building. I'm going to do a couple of bags of Quikrete this afternoon and then show him your video. I'm always looking for ways to do things that will allow me to do my share of the labor and I think this will be great. He's got the male upper body strength to tackle lifting 80lb sacks up to a mixer - but why should he strain his back if this works just as well to keep the fence up? And if I can do some of the work too!
I live in Long Island N.Y. and many times i don't even add the gallon of water as the moisture in the ground will set the concrete soon enough especially if it has rained recently.
That was awesome to watch. I’ve always been curious if the mix truly became solid. Reading through the comments I found one that bothered me and maybe you all might try it. Posts pulling up? I always install a couple of deck screws at different angles below grade before I pour concrete in to act as a rebar. Only takes a moment and gives me piece of mind knowing that it’s not going anywhere. Just my two cents. Great product.
Hey, this is actually a great suggestion. I was trying to figure out an easy way take a bell shape at the bottom. What size are the deck dcrews that you use?
I just had to pull a fence post I put in just like I did in the video, it's been in the ground 12 years, the post broke off half way down into the cement and I couldn't get the cement out! I just left the rest in the ground, too much digging in 90° weather out here.
For best results, after adding water use a stick long enough to reach the bottom of the hole and go around the post 2-3 times poking the stick from the top all the way down. Quickrete works great the way you did it here but using the stick method produces a more consistent mix from pole to pole.
Always add a bit of water to the hole first, then add the dry Sakrete, use a rod to mix. Adding more water and Sakrete to fill to the desired level. Never had a problem.
Pro tip; prime or tar the post where it’ll be set in concrete, pour the Quikcrete 3/4 of the way up the post, add water, poke the mixture a few times to assure that the water is evenly absorbed ( I use a 2” piece of rebar ), and then immediately add Quikcrete to the top of the hole, add water, poke and done! Also, for extra sturdiness, screw in a few screws close to the base of the 4x4. 👍
Brian Van Horne Posts are not wood but anyway they are not going anywhere.I will let you know in 20 years but I might be set in the ground myself by them.
Plus you have to understand that the ground over time that deep holds moisture so even if it didn't get rock hard at the exact time that you add the gallon of water simply by virtue that water goes from wet to dry given the concrete is super dry and the ground around it is wet the moisture will automatically draw itself to the dry area and eventually saturate the concrete mix causing it to harden. Unless if you live in a desert. Like Osmosis water flow from region of high water to region of low water.
If there is any dry cement because the water didn’t penetrate, a few good heavy rains will soak in and set it completely. But like you I add the water in 2 or 3 steps as I fill the hole. I’ve never had a problem.
Dipping the post into a five gallon bucket of tar before setting, will double the life of the post. I actually prefer to use (some) water while setting. It seems to expedite the setting time.
Concrete for steel posts. I use limestone gravel or any gravel for wood posts. Tamp it really good and solid. All wood posts should be painted with tar or wood preservative the length it’s in the ground (roughly 2-3 ft). Your fence posts should last a lit longer this way. The concrete will rot the posts twice as fast than gravel will. I use concrete only for steel posts.
Not sure I agree with you on the concrete will rot post twice as fast. I did my fence 23 yrs ago gravel at the bottom concrete all around and tapered square top (concrete) using 4x4s and my fence is still strong as ever. Probably has another 8-10 yes on it. I can’t imagine it working any better than that
In dumb founded to concrete always wanted to make things from concrete but never had knowledge so I just got the same bag as in your video I tried making a pot but noticed I used to much water it looks all crumbly I need a lil help or did I get the wrong bag for making pots
Fast set concrete is extremely sensitive to moisture . it can set up in high humidity while still in the bag , so even if the gallon of water doesn't trickle all the way down the hole the ground moisture will be sufficient to set it .
A friend and me put in 7 posts, burying then 2 feet deep. We found a product at Home Depot called a post protector sleeve. It's orange and I think they discontinued it. I dug down 2 1/2 feet to subsoil using a twist type post hole digger. Looked like 2 shovels welded together with a cutting bar between them and long bicycle handles on top. Went through hard clay like butter. Anyway, I put a bag of stone in the hole, put the post in and added 1 1/2 bags of cement, adding 6 qts of water in layers. Ain't nothing taking down that fence! Then I sold the house...
I just had to replace a section of fence I installed with my dad back in 1994. As I was trying to pull and dig up the posts all I could hear in my head was my dad saying back in the day “I hope you move before these need to be replaced”. I never moved and after 16 posts removed with concrete, several beers and pills he is laughing from heaven.
kev docks I never liked that because now you have all of these concrete blocks in your yard. In 20 years you have even more concrete blocks. Where does it end? I know you would say well that is not my problem some day. Well it will be somebody’s problem. Just seems like a shitty attitude to have in my opinion.
@kev docks what "big craters" would be left behind? I thought the OP was replacing the fence. He can use the same holes for the new posts.
Now THIS is how you do a product review! Really appreciate this video that most people wouldn't be able to do.
haha so true... i've never seen a vid when they're like: hey lets destroy the work to see if the product does what it says butyeah!
I have done this for many years, also all piers for decks. It helps to poke the concrete with a 5ft bar to let water mix in and trapped air out . Many people are sceptical about this method and I always say think about that bag of concrete or mortar that you left in the shed or garage for a year and it is rock solid, just from moisture in the air.
Thank you for adding the extra step to agitate the mix, just makes sense to ensure no air or missed areas
That is so right!! It becomes solid rock.
Yeah, the stuff is like magic, in my experience. Like you say, it will turn to stone just from humidity! It sucks a lot of moisture from the surrounding soil. You just about can't screw it up--which is important when I'm doing the work myself :-)
I was today years old when I discovered just throw the concrete in and use a pressure washer to add the water. It mixes and hydrates at the same time.
I just did two posts, one was the dump and pour method, the other I mixed in a wheelbarrow and dumped/shoveled in. The dump and pour filled in around the post better. Easier, cleaner, and quicker. Thanks for verifying that it works.
I have to pour six fence posts and was debating which method I should use. Thank you for posting your research!
The comments about this being the lazy way, or somehow inferior, are kind of funny. What concrete in this situation needs to do, as far as the stress it undergoes, is practically zero, and that goes for this situation with gate posts too. No one is building an airport runway here. In this case the concrete is practically nothing more than ballast when you get right down to it. One of the real unappreciated skills in engineering is being smart enough to not build to a higher standard than what you need, whether that's in terms of strength, cost, or the required effort. Good video!
In project management, that's called "gold-plating". You don't need to polish a turd if all you need is a turd.
I'm using this stuff to fill concrete blocks. The blocks hold the weight, the fast-set mix locks them together and anchors the rebar.
It's good stuff for my application.
I like the airport runway comment.
I find that older people generally think doing things the most labour intensive and expensive way possible is always the best way, its not most of the time
@@bluesbrother2383
As an older person, I can say doing things the most labor intensive and expensive way IS the best way if someone else is doing the labor and paying for it. If I'm doing it myself, I agree with you wholeheartedly. 😉
41 years of concrete work , less water = more concrete strength
Strength of the concrete really isn't a factor here. As long as it doesn't break apart, it will do it's job, which is to hold the post in place.
@steve timleck On a bag of concrete it'll say the recommended amount of water to add.
If you do that, you'll more than likely reach the rated strength of the concrete.
(4000psi or 5000psi for example). [(I say "more than likely" because wet curing your concrete is important too. If it's 90° and dry as a bone out, your concrete will dry out too fast and also not reach full strength. After the concrete sets it's a good idea to hose it down a couple times a day for a good week or so, or run a sprinkler on it for a few days at least.)]
...Any water you add in addition to that is considered "water of convenience". It may make it easier to work with, but it'll weaken the strength.
If you want more workability, but also want max strength, you can add a plasticizer to the mix. It's like water in a bag.. gives you liquidity without compromising strength.
@@need100k Yep, a decent strength concrete will do just fine. The post will rot out before the concrete ever becomes a concern
@@MMGJ10 you should put a good layer of gravel in the bottom of the hole for drainage to make the post last sufficiently longer, but nobody does that
Just from watching you have to move the equipment back and forth to loosen the post tells me it's done a good job. I've been using quikrete and sakrete for 35 years. Have built dozens of decks and it's always preformed well.
I was surprised how well that sucker was in there. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Excellent test we are all curious about. And you used your time efficiently, not wasting time for us viewers. Thanks!!!
I used this method when I built my shed in 2009. The estimate of 25 bags of concrete for an 8'x8'x2' base was prohibitive for me, so I dug five two-feet holes. I used 12-inch diameter form tubes, since this was my first time working with concrete. I set a 4x4 in each tube. Eleven years later, through a few severe winters, very wet years, super-storm Sandy, a few more hurricanes and she still stands. I built her with no plans with minor skills and less experience, so I have had to rebuild the roof and still need to improve the framing, but the base is solid.
I have used this method twice to set two plant hangers. I did not use the entire bag for either, because these were the 1/4-inch metal hangers. They too have stood the test of time.
This is the coolest video I've seen in a long time. Granted that these days a long time is about a day and a quarter but it was still awesome to watch.
Thanks for demonstrating how that method works. I'm also glad to see that I'm not the only one who absentmindedly leaves tools that I'm not using in harm's way.
I'll be using this same product today to set a steel post in the ground as a base support for an antenna. Thanks for the video, it's good to know the fast-setting quikrete works using the dump and pour method.
Thank you! I am about to set a few steel posts with this stuff. I have never used this particular fast setting Quikrete. Your video puts my mind to ease.
Pretty cool! I JUST used that same bag of Quikrete last weekend to anchor two 4x4s into the dirt. Super easy!
Thanks for doing this. I was curious myself.
From a novice: awesome video! This was a very clever way to test the effectiveness of Quikrete for setting a post. I'll be getting my Quikrete today. Thanks and best wishes.
His hole was not deep enough. Use a full bag and tamp around the post. You don’t need any water but if you want a couple qts will work fine. Concrete gets harder over time. Believe it or not it takes 100 years to fully cure.
I was skeptical about the concrete mixing properly at the bottom without mixing. Your 'experiment' removed all my hesitation. Thanks.
I've wondered this for years, thanks for doing the legwork!
This stuff works amazing, I used my 6” wide auger 3 ft down without a problem yes it seems dry but really does work, another method we did which made it way easier was fill the hole 3/4 of the way up with water first then pour then quikrete into the hole after so that it wets it evenly any excess water will overflow out of the hole and the concrete will stay where it needs to be, not sure if there’s a problem with too much water. Set 170 post this way on the farm and no problem to date. Pulled a post out like in your video and no problem to 36” down they set in about an hour as well not sure what full cure time is but easy to set and walk away from with no problem or worries!
How is it holding up man??
Really appreciate this video review...i was wondering what it looks like underneath and you made it clear for me...AWESOME REVIEW VIDEO!!!
Thank you for this. I am currently replacing post and using this cement so i had wondered if it would work like it said. Now i know!
Great review sir thank you for posting this video as I’m an hour away from setting an 8x8 post for the second time. This time however,I will be using the quick Crete in this video 🇺🇸
Thank you, you should have millions saying thank you, common people, I really wanted to know, Thanks So Much.
Thanks for watching! I thought it would be neat to see as well!
Thanks for answering a question/concern that I had as I was getting ready to set some posts!
Great video. Nice to know that the concrete bonds without mixing. I've always wondered about that. Thanks for doing this objective test. You just saved me a $hit ton of work!
Been installing fence for 21 years now and I pour the concrete in and then pour water on it.. never ..not one time have I had to go back to a wobbly post..... never
I agree I do it the very same way
Which concrete did you use?
@@mattlanctot7517 quickcrete 5000 lbs mix home depot
I usually put water in at bottom and mid.
However I hired a guy who worked fir an older company that said the did water on top as well. They’d been doing it for decades.
Seems really fast.
And he swirled the post around and around in the dry mix to let it settle hard.
I thought he was nuts at the time. Maybe not after all.
Great experiment. That stuff worked surprisingly well! 👍
glad i watched this. now i know how good this stuff is
Thank you for your time and help with this very helpful. Title got me worried the stuff is really bad. I guess you got our attention with title. Slick!
Thanks, title not intentional just wanted people to feel comfortable before using it. Thanks for watching!
Great video. This is exactly what I was wondering. I did not believe this stuff was going to to work without pre mixing it first. Thanks!
Thanks a lot for doing this video! You cleared up a lot of the doubts I had...
THank you soooooo much i could relax , snd thank you for verifying for many that wasnt sure,
Replaced my entire fence. Built two decks. I have never added water. Works great and it's quick.
Excellent experiment! Thanks for sharing. Tackling projects during the corona lockdown, so this really helps my buying decision!
That is pretty cool. I like that Speed Racer image. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video. I'm one of the skeptics for this approach and I hate mixing concrete for posts. I guess I'm a convert now.
Thank you for doing this. I've always been skeptical of of this stuff. Now I'll use it with confidence.
Great video and I like how you used your loader to pull up the post
Thanks for doing this I was curious myself
That's a great test...Thanks for the effort.
This was exactly what I needed to confirm the validity of this method..... thank you!
Let’s start a GoFundMe page and by this poor man a hammer.
I would prefer an air chisel! Thanks!
Obviously doesn't care much for his tools. Laid the post right on the trimmer.
@@terryshirley1789 Now now, it swung in a way I didn't expect. Trimmer is fine.
There is tool for every job LOL
I’d take a skid steer over a hammer. He has money can get his own
Thank you for the demo! Great video and product!
I use it on my posts and for 2 extra dollars I wasn’t going to wait another day to start my project, hard solid posts in 30 minutes, works great 👍🏼
Thank you for the information, good job
Appreciate it, needed to see that!
Even if the water don't get to all the crete the moisture in the ground will eventually curit all ....in desert environments could probably take a bitt
Nice work. Thanks for taking the time to do this
Thanks, I have always premixed but I have been curious about the water on top method.
Answered some of my questions! I'm a little bitty lady and mixing the concrete with water first the traditional way (wheelbarrow) and then putting it in the hole vs. putting in the Quikcrete and then the water makes my life - and project - so much easier!!
Good job on this. I’ve always mixed it in a wheel barrow and poured the slop in around the posts which always settled even with the top of the ground. This way is definitely easier.
I love you man. Just Subscribed to your channel. Cheers.
Cool. Thanks for the consumer testing! I'll be redoing my mailbox next week.
Thanks. Reaffirms what has worked well for me gor many years.
Thanks! always wondered why quickrete didn't do this as well, setting posts in 2 days, now I know, thanks for ripping your post out....can I borrow your tractor?
Nice one. I was wondering this today.
Good enough for me.
I am now a FORMER skeptic of this method. Talk about being a lot easier than mixing the concrete and pouring it around the post.
Not to mention, after a few rain cycles it gets even better, especially at the bottom.
The gallon of water is to just set it. It's the moisture in the ground that is absorbed by the concrete mix that gives you the permanent set. I have built over 1,200 decks customers we're always questioning the technique, dry set.
There wouldn't happen to be a book you could recommend on deck building, would there? I'd like to learn how but don't know anyone with experience. Thanks in advance!
I've dry poured walkways with this mix. As long as it's properly cured, it's strong. I've never used this for heavy applications tho (driveways, foundations, etc.)
Interesting, good to know. Thanks for watching!
Thank you.... just what I needed to know!!
I have often wondered what it looked like doing it this way.
it will absorb water from the ground also...good video...good product.
Yes it will, thanks for the input!
It's called dry setting! I do fence work, set thousands of posts it's good for certain situations
Excellent demonstration - I'm going to show my husband. He's extremely skeptical and thought we should rent a mixer to set the posts of the fence we are building. I'm going to do a couple of bags of Quikrete this afternoon and then show him your video. I'm always looking for ways to do things that will allow me to do my share of the labor and I think this will be great. He's got the male upper body strength to tackle lifting 80lb sacks up to a mixer - but why should he strain his back if this works just as well to keep the fence up? And if I can do some of the work too!
This was used for an overhang as well as some fence posts. Fence posts were done over 10years ago still solid!
I always start with some water in the hole. Pour in the mix, add more water
Thanks man for the experiment
I live in Long Island N.Y. and many times i don't even add the gallon of water as the moisture in the ground will set the concrete soon enough especially if it has rained recently.
I grew up on LI no doubt there is plenty of water in the ground there!
Subscribed, liked and thank you! Great demo of this product...….had my doubts but the experiment you performed showed true!
That was awesome to watch. I’ve always been curious if the mix truly became solid. Reading through the comments I found one that bothered me and maybe you all might try it. Posts pulling up? I always install a couple of deck screws at different angles below grade before I pour concrete in to act as a rebar. Only takes a moment and gives me piece of mind knowing that it’s not going anywhere. Just my two cents. Great product.
Hey, this is actually a great suggestion. I was trying to figure out an easy way take a bell shape at the bottom. What size are the deck dcrews that you use?
I just had to pull a fence post I put in just like I did in the video, it's been in the ground 12 years, the post broke off half way down into the cement and I couldn't get the cement out! I just left the rest in the ground, too much digging in 90° weather out here.
Here in the u.k. we have a similar product where we put the water in first then the cement works a treat
Awesome video. I was hesitant on using this product.
For best results, after adding water use a stick long enough to reach the bottom of the hole and go around the post 2-3 times poking the stick from the top all the way down. Quickrete works great the way you did it here but using the stick method produces a more consistent mix from pole to pole.
correct . i do half of the hole first with a half gallon of water and a stick and then quickly add the remaining bag and water .
Always add a bit of water to the hole first, then add the dry Sakrete, use a rod to mix. Adding more water and Sakrete to fill to the desired level. Never had a problem.
Pro tip; prime or tar the post where it’ll be set in concrete, pour the Quikcrete 3/4 of the way up the post, add water, poke the mixture a few times to assure that the water is evenly absorbed ( I use a 2” piece of rebar ), and then immediately add Quikcrete to the top of the hole, add water, poke and done! Also, for extra sturdiness, screw in a few screws close to the base of the 4x4. 👍
Awesome video. Informative, quick and satisfied my curiosity.
Great video.Just bought 8 bags to set 8 posts.Looks likes smart buy!
Brian Van Horne I wasn’t building the Golden Gate.8 vinyl posts for a 5 ft vinyl picket fence was more than enough.
Brian Van Horne Posts are not wood but anyway they are not going anywhere.I will let you know in 20 years but I might be set in the ground myself by them.
Thanks for the video! 👍
Thanks for the video.very informative.
Great video, THANK YOU 👍
Plus you have to understand that the ground over time that deep holds moisture so even if it didn't get rock hard at the exact time that you add the gallon of water simply by virtue that water goes from wet to dry given the concrete is super dry and the ground around it is wet the moisture will automatically draw itself to the dry area and eventually saturate the concrete mix causing it to harden. Unless if you live in a desert. Like Osmosis water flow from region of high water to region of low water.
Thanks, was wondering the same thing.
If there is any dry cement because the water didn’t penetrate, a few good heavy rains will soak in and set it completely.
But like you I add the water in 2 or 3 steps as I fill the hole. I’ve never had a problem.
That's AWESOME, thank you.
The bottom of the hole was flared out, it broke off when I pulled the post, it was still at the bottom of the hole.
That was neat!
I used some of a different brand nearly 9 years ago and my fence is still solid
Im gonna put a perimeter fence in tomorrow using this stuff. Thats good to hear, thanks.
Great job nice video.
Great job! Thanks
If you have the time, just pack the stuff in and around the post. The quickcrete will pull moisture from the soil... no need to even add water...
Dipping the post into a five gallon bucket of tar before setting, will double the life of the post. I actually prefer to use (some) water while setting. It seems to expedite the setting time.
Concrete for steel posts. I use limestone gravel or any gravel for wood posts. Tamp it really good and solid. All wood posts should be painted with tar or wood preservative the length it’s in the ground (roughly 2-3 ft). Your fence posts should last a lit longer this way. The concrete will rot the posts twice as fast than gravel will. I use concrete only for steel posts.
Not sure I agree with you on the concrete will rot post twice as fast. I did my fence 23 yrs ago gravel at the bottom concrete all around and tapered square top (concrete) using 4x4s and my fence is still strong as ever. Probably has another 8-10 yes on it. I can’t imagine it working any better than that
In dumb founded to concrete always wanted to make things from concrete but never had knowledge so I just got the same bag as in your video I tried making a pot but noticed I used to much water it looks all crumbly I need a lil help or did I get the wrong bag for making pots
Great Stuff I was wondering the same thing
great short demo
Good test 👍🏻 4ft 5ft
Deep. I'm in Michigan.
So I wonder what it'd work like ❓❓
Looks good enough for me. Looks too me like you needed another bucket of water, I pour in a good base then add water then add more
That is a great review!
Will this technique work with the Quikrete Concrete MIX in the yellow bag (which I think has gravel in it)?
Fast set concrete is extremely sensitive to moisture . it can set up in high humidity while still in the bag , so even if the gallon of water doesn't trickle all the way down the hole the ground moisture will be sufficient to set it .
A friend and me put in 7 posts, burying then 2 feet deep. We found a product at Home Depot called a post protector sleeve. It's orange and I think they discontinued it. I dug down 2 1/2 feet to subsoil using a twist type post hole digger. Looked like 2 shovels welded together with a cutting bar between them and long bicycle handles on top. Went through hard clay like butter. Anyway, I put a bag of stone in the hole, put the post in and added 1 1/2 bags of cement, adding 6 qts of water in layers. Ain't nothing taking down that fence! Then I sold the house...