2002-2006 Honda Cr-v Water Pump, Belt Tensioner and Belt Change (DIY)
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- Опубліковано 24 лис 2022
- Hi all, in this video I am working on changing out my water pump along with the accessories belt and belt tensioner on my 2003 honda crv, although the process should be similar for other platforms with the K24 engine like the Honda Accord, element and tsx, This should roughly help you out. Total time it took me was 4 hours with recording so if you are mechanically incline, it should take you less time. Somewhat a messy job but if there are anything you have questions on, feel free to ask in the comment section and I will try my best to reply. Again thanks for watching and don't forget to Like, comment and subscribe to help this channel grow.
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Enjoyed your video - it was informative. Ive done this myself a few times and they surely didn't give you much room to work on a CR-V. I would like to offer a few suggestions. Take the crankshaft pulley off - the water pump will almost fall out the bottom when you get all the bolts out. It's easy to do if you have a good impact and a heavy 19mm socket. I use a Milwaukee 1/2" drive electric impact. Take the idler off the tensioner - it's easy to do with a 14mm wrench and gives you room to easily get to that bottom bolt. No need to remove the motor mount; just take the capscrew out and lower the engine by turning the nut out on the long stud. That's what it's for -
Your tip about taping the socket to the bolt head when putting the bottom bolts in the water pump was awesome and that's the first time I'd heard of that trick. The bottom bolt and left one ain't too bad. The right one is a S.O.B. - lol! Again - I enjoyed the video and wasn't criticizing; just sharing experience and info -
thanks. i will keep that in mind for the next time i have to do that. although that crank bolt is always a tough one to crack, especially without an adequate impact tool.
@projectsbyj25 the socket itself is about as important as the impact tool. I use one of those Lisle 19mm impact sockets that are very thick and heavy. Not much give, and makes your impact tool meaner. The last one I took off didn't hammer a half dozen times. I have a Milwaukee 1/2" impact with the 12.0 18v battery.
@@smid2550 oh ok: yeah, when I have enough funds, imma have to invest in a battery power 1/2” impact. Much needed.
Highly recommend the alternative method of going from the passenger wheel-well. Especially if you have a 1/2 impact. The water pump is easily accessible from here once the crank pulley is removed. A great time to replace the crank seal too. It’s nice to have a set of long boy ratcheting wrenches not required.
Thanks for this video, will be attempting this in a few days.
Very helpful video!
Real good stuff brother your the man!
Honda made it very hard to work on the earlier versions of the K-series engines. It’s mostly because they put the engine more towards the passenger side… which makes super hard to get to things when they break.
Lol wtf my waterpump came out from the bottom without having to pull the engine mount nor the crank pulley 😂 very interesting
Interesting.... What year?
It’s because you know what you’re doing 👏 👏
2006 crv? And did you have to drop subframe like this bozo did?
I missed my b series...
Thank you 🙏 good video
Thanks for the video
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great video did you use OEM parts
Majority of the parts were aftermarket, the only one I had to switch to oem eventually was the belt itself.
Was an OEM belt the end of the squealing?
@@projectsbyj25
@@TheMarriedManChannel it did help but I think u would need to pair with an oem tensioner. Cause since I didn’t use an oem tensioner no there’s like a low whirling sound when I turn on the engine but it drowns out quick once u get use to it. It’s just a pain of a job to do so I just left it until I really have to redo it again. No squeals tho.
I’m surprised you didn’t remove the crankshaft pulley to get access to the water pump.
In the video it might look like u might need to remove the crankshaft pulley but u don’t have to. The real struggle was trying to get a ratchet and socket in there, but for me, the crankshaft pulley wasn’t in the way.
Yeah, removing the crankshaft pulley would’ve made much easier.
In possible to get a soccer or wrench on that tensioner nut. There's a air conditioning land at runs right through there makes it impossible.
Yeah that area is pretty packed
Easier way to remove the belt, at least for me is to get yourself that long serpentine belt tool and grind down a spare 14mm socket about a 1/4" that way it'll fit that tight space and you won't have to remove anything the next time you gotta change the belt.
That’s genius. I’m going to do that the next time
Even with the motor mount removed.
probably the noise was from the tensioner, It is good only use the OEM parts because repair water pump is a pain in the butt, you don't want to do it again in a year or two.
Yeah turn out it was that and the belt itself. Had to go oem for the belt and that helped out a lot.
About ypur front suspension bolt what ypur saying is not true. That control arm bushing is not one that turns or moves your safe to tighten it while in the air now the back one to that control arm youd be correct needs tightened with load
Guy has no clue what he’s doing he did it the hard way
No clue?? But the job still got done somehow?? Hmms, weird..
what's the easy way? I'm about to do this job & would love helpful tips!!!