Thanks an bunch for this tutorial ..in my 30 yrs in the trade / in the distant past i've repaired a many of an copper evap coil leak s ..but Not much if ever now a days ..refrigerant has gotten so dang expensive so now days usually the coil or equipment get replaced ..once verified or leak is pinpointed .....Thanks again & i saved uR Video to possibility show an future customer if or as needed .....
Excellent video Ty! One thing if I may suggest, when someone is making a repair on a U-bend or particularly difficult area whether it's the evaporator, condenser or other tricky place, I would suggest using a number 000 torch tip, also sometimes known as a jewelers torch tip. If the proper manufacturer's torch tip settings are used with the 000, it makes it very easy to braze a leak shut in those areas. It is also a very good torch tip to use when repairing on aluminum if the heat is controlled very well. I have had much success using the 000 tip instead of the 0 or number 2.
Thank you! I absolutely agree with the 000 torch tip. Eventually I will make some videos demo strating that. Thanks for the comment and words of encouragement.
Thank you, very informative . In a pinch, it will be very handy. Some times people dont have the cash for a new unit on hand, and just need to get by for a few days.
In residential I think a heated diode picking up refrigerant in a coil is all I need in this case. I just make sure it's not from an easily repairable source. I love your isolation test, but I haven't been at a company that would want to pay me for the time to bother.
The metal around the coil is pretty rusted; you get dielectric metal currents that cause leaks. Just quote a new evaporator coil and save time and money!
That is a great question, and it depends! 1st if the airflow and filtration is properly set up (rarly 😔) then the coil should never get dirty. (Some exceptions and separate solutions tho those exceptions) If the home is sealed properly with filter controlled air infiltration there is much less chemical leaching with building products. A IAQ monitor can control outside air to dilute those poulutants that are not only affecting the coil but the human health. Any coating applied will reduce heat transfer. Some more than others. I save coil coating for special applications and on a Case by case bases. The last one I did was a sewer treatment plant.
I did a warranty coil last month, and we were pretty slow at the time. So I brazed on some valves, washed a big ol trash can. Filled it with water and dunked it. The leak was right where I had found it. 2/10 would not recommend using a trash can.
SB1 quick connect refrigerant fittings by NPR is what I used. But also PRO-Fit Quick Connect Brand by Rectorseal ZoomLock PUSH push-to-connect refrigerant fittings by Parker Hannifin
Very helpful video, thanks! Our residential HVAC has a leak and our contractor wants us replace the whole system, including the air handler. What would you recommend?
I can't recommend anything without seeing the system. It can possible be repaired, it may just need one component or it may be best for a while system. I do recommend getting 2nd and 3rd opinions. Don't chose in price alone but see what they say and make an informed decision. A lot of HVAC companies are being bought out by private equity companies. These companies train to sell sell sell. They also get commission on sales. Since there is a skilled trade shortage a lot of techs don't know how to repair anymore and it's just easier to sell. Not always but many times, the more a company spends on marketing and advertising the more focused on sales they are. Companies that do repair work don't have enough good techs to grow so they don't advertise because they can't handle an increase in customers.
I have searched everywhere for some inexpensive 3/4" & 3/8" Press Fit Removable connectors. I do not have any just laying around, what brand did you use? Where did you get the 3/8" Schrader valves with cores? Would this procedure still work with the expansion valve still connected to the evaporator? Thanks, Jim
Hi Jim, I find the zoom lock push, and RLS originate from the same factory. I'm pretty sure Rector Seal profit is also the same. Unless something changes there is no difference. I just got a sample of airsept fittings that connect to the flared fitting such as a unit to copper line set. I will be trying them out soon
Sorry to bother Ty... But what is the name of that fluorescent leak detector you're using here??? I cannot for the life of me find it anywhere online and it's driving me nuts!
Every coil I've ever fixed or seen fixed developed another leak the next year. Thank you for your honesty.
Thanks an bunch for this tutorial ..in my 30 yrs in the trade / in the distant past i've repaired a many of an copper evap coil leak s ..but Not much if ever now a days ..refrigerant has gotten so dang expensive so now days usually the coil or equipment get replaced ..once verified or leak is pinpointed .....Thanks again & i saved uR Video to possibility show an future customer if or as needed .....
Great Video. I especially appreciate your honesty regarding whether a residential coil can be repaired.
Excellent video Ty! One thing if I may suggest, when someone is making a repair on a U-bend or particularly difficult area whether it's the evaporator, condenser or other tricky place, I would suggest using a number 000 torch tip, also sometimes known as a jewelers torch tip. If the proper manufacturer's torch tip settings are used with the 000, it makes it very easy to braze a leak shut in those areas. It is also a very good torch tip to use when repairing on aluminum if the heat is controlled very well. I have had much success using the 000 tip instead of the 0 or number 2.
Thank you!
I absolutely agree with the 000 torch tip. Eventually I will make some videos demo strating that. Thanks for the comment and words of encouragement.
Thank you, very informative . In a pinch, it will be very handy. Some times people dont have the cash for a new unit on hand, and just need to get by for a few days.
Ty love the idea of the quick connect for the coil isolation leak tests ..totally awesome Thanks
Nice job as always.
I just helped my neighbor out. It took me forever to find the leak. It was in the middle of the evaporator.
Seems like all these manufactures are having evap cool leaks.
Was it the ant nest corrosion?
@@love2hvac no it was right in the center of the coil in the middle of the fins.
Excellent. Thanks for your labor
You did a amazing job
Thank you
You’re a professor HVAC
Great job
Great Video thank you.
In residential I think a heated diode picking up refrigerant in a coil is all I need in this case. I just make sure it's not from an easily repairable source. I love your isolation test, but I haven't been at a company that would want to pay me for the time to bother.
At my company, its pretty much the same.
The metal around the coil is pretty rusted; you get dielectric metal currents that cause leaks. Just quote a new evaporator coil and save time and money!
Do you think if you're installing a new system by placing a fluid film type protective coating on the coil would be a benefit?
That is a great question, and it depends!
1st if the airflow and filtration is properly set up (rarly 😔) then the coil should never get dirty. (Some exceptions and separate solutions tho those exceptions)
If the home is sealed properly with filter controlled air infiltration there is much less chemical leaching with building products.
A IAQ monitor can control outside air to dilute those poulutants that are not only affecting the coil but the human health.
Any coating applied will reduce heat transfer. Some more than others.
I save coil coating for special applications and on a Case by case bases. The last one I did was a sewer treatment plant.
@@love2hvac Appreciate you taking the time to reply and providing so much insight to what is occurring in the evaporator.
Blaster Surface Shield could be the lastest product. Possible HVAC
ua-cam.com/video/NE1_EiZIVHs/v-deo.html
I did a warranty coil last month, and we were pretty slow at the time. So I brazed on some valves, washed a big ol trash can. Filled it with water and dunked it. The leak was right where I had found it. 2/10 would not recommend using a trash can.
Thinking outside the box, I like it!
So I guess you could say the coil was.... Trashed 🤣
How do you call those quick fittings? I’m trying to find them
SB1 quick connect refrigerant fittings by NPR is what I used. But also
PRO-Fit Quick Connect Brand by Rectorseal
ZoomLock PUSH push-to-connect refrigerant fittings by Parker Hannifin
Great tutorial. Any advice on aluminum coils?
How many uses have you gotten from each of the quick connect fittings?
I don't do as much field work as I use too so I've only used this about 20 or 25 times over the last 2 years.
Awesome, do another video on service.
Very helpful video, thanks!
Our residential HVAC has a leak and our contractor wants us replace the whole system, including the air handler. What would you recommend?
I can't recommend anything without seeing the system.
It can possible be repaired, it may just need one component or it may be best for a while system.
I do recommend getting 2nd and 3rd opinions. Don't chose in price alone but see what they say and make an informed decision.
A lot of HVAC companies are being bought out by private equity companies. These companies train to sell sell sell. They also get commission on sales.
Since there is a skilled trade shortage a lot of techs don't know how to repair anymore and it's just easier to sell.
Not always but many times, the more a company spends on marketing and advertising the more focused on sales they are.
Companies that do repair work don't have enough good techs to grow so they don't advertise because they can't handle an increase in customers.
I have searched everywhere for some inexpensive 3/4" & 3/8" Press Fit Removable connectors. I do not have any just laying around, what brand did you use? Where did you get the 3/8" Schrader valves with cores? Would this procedure still work with the expansion valve still connected to the evaporator? Thanks, Jim
Hi Jim, I find the zoom lock push, and RLS originate from the same factory. I'm pretty sure Rector Seal profit is also the same.
Unless something changes there is no difference.
I just got a sample of airsept fittings that connect to the flared fitting such as a unit to copper line set. I will be trying them out soon
Thanks I will have a look at both. I have really enjoyed your videos. Jim
Thank you so much Mr. Ty for your informations and time I’m really appreciate that.Q: Is there an evaporator coil does not rust? Thank you.🌷
Yes, micro channel is all aluminum and does not rust.
Some manufactures use stainless steel in place of galvanized.
Sorry to bother Ty... But what is the name of that fluorescent leak detector you're using here??? I cannot for the life of me find it anywhere online and it's driving me nuts!
Those zoom lock fittings leak all the time they are terrible . Got a different idea?
That quick fitting trick is genius.
Can you do the same isolation test on the lineset? How do you find a leak in a lineset inside the walls?
Yes you can, I am editing the lineset video right now
@@love2hvac beautiful. Looking forward to it.
You don't; But you isolate the problem; may have to run an outside lineset!
what do you that angle type? thanks,, goodluck:)
We call this an A coil.
Also have N, W and v or upside down A as some call it.
Not sure if that's what you mean or not.
Сначала лайк, потом просмотр
call...
I like the idea of the quick connects reusable for evaporator leak testing I got a try that one 👍
I'm not sold on them to replace brazing but they work great for coil cleans and pressure testing.
@@love2hvac Iv seen them a few years ago. I also would not use them on one of my jobs. Only a testing tools