Main legal issue with the unit isn’t the heater itself ( which I think is great ) , but the UK power supply it comes with. it ships with a unfused UK plug that falls foul of BS1363. Which is easily fixed by cutting it off and putting on a fuse UK plug. It won’t be an issue for the European or North American options. Genuine question, unless I’ve made a mistake is there anyway that power supply be legal in the UK without a fused UK socket? Having read the regulations, I can’t see how it’s legal.
Also despite the unit power supply possibly being class two double insulated the earth pin should be conductor. Secondly the size of the moulding does not provide the required physical separation from the live and neutral.
@@WOFFY-qc9te the next video I take it apart to have a look inside one of the points I actually brought up is that it got a metal earth pin on the plug but doesn’t lead to anything. Whilst it is stamped with the double insulated logo and the cable is double insulated I thought that eliminated the requirement for it to have an earth pin.
@@MispronouncedAdventures No fuse ?, even if the power supply had an internal fuse the cable itself does not and potentially have in excess of 32 Amp nominal AC available, in real terms the peak fault current is far in excess of this and is controlled by the appropriate circuit breaker conforming to IEEE 18th Edition wiring regulations. The Earth pin is not required for double insulated appliances however 1363 says that it should be entirely made of conductive material. The Earth pin also conducts any heat away from the plug allowing it to meet the expected power rating. I do not recommend the power supply being in the case whilst in operation just in case any one thought that may be a good thing. Great video I enjoyed whilst my heater burns through the kerosene. Best
@WOFFY-qc9te yes as in no fuse in the power supplies plug which is why it’s not compliant, in the next video I cut it off and add a fused plug. The power supply plugs in the heater box externally so it would be quite difficult to actually put the power supply inside the case
@@MispronouncedAdventures The earth pin on the plug is sheathed which is another fail on top of the fuse. It can have a plastic earth pin if it is class 2 but if it was for a computer that type of power supply would have a functional earth for shielding.
Interesting video as usual. My one is the previous version which also has a barometric sensor which allows the use of plateau mode which supposedly adjusts the fuel for high altitude use. It does display the pressure altitude on the controller and seems to be pretty accurate where I live. Looking forward to the 2nd video.
Yes definitely the previous version also has an altitude sensor. Just did it on the main board opposed to an expansion board. Both versions display the altitude which is reasonably accurate. Although with this version I kept finding high altitude/plateau mode turning on by default.
Great video, as usual 👌🏼 on question for the Arctic expert. When installing multiple fixed diesel heaters in your van. Do you need to use extra fuel pickup lines or can you just use a T-piece ? Heater 1: A-term 2kw Heater 2: A-tern 2kw Heater 3: thermtop C (hydronic)
My model of van has an auxiliary fuel port in the sender unit so only 1 sender and then I use Y connectors. I personally use a Y over a T connector as it’s more favourable for flow.
Well, not sure about everyone else, but the comedy of errors after dropping that screw inside the case is the content I'm looking for 😂😂😂😂 Joking aside, a bit of a cliff hanger there, Alex. Not good for my anxiety levels. Just hurry up and release the next one, please 🙏
My man. How can you possibly argue this is any different from the all in one diesel heaters that have the fittings coming out of the bottom and "might leak harmful gas". It is literally the same heater, but has a solid elbow before the flexible fitting.
I don’t think you understand what I was getting across , it’s the form factor of the those all in one heaters, not the heater itself. The “all in one” portable heaters which I show at the beginning and reference often look like and are shown as a solution for a permanent installation in a vehicle . when they’re 100% not. Their metal frame has bolt holes to be fastened down to a floor and it looks like a flexible exhaust could be added and run through the floor, and the companies often use marketing photos of showing them in vehicles. ( which I show in the video ) Someone who’s not familiar with the heaters style could think that that’s a perfectly acceptable way of mounting those type Inside a a vehicle. Portable all on one toolbox style heaters just don’t have that sort of form factor. It wouldn’t make any sense to mount it like that in a vehicle, and very difficult to do so given the configuration of the heater. Portable heaters like this should be mounted outside of a vehicle, tent or a space and pump hot air in. I do actually make more of a point of this in the first video and explain how people who have done it can rectify it. I only briefly mentioned it in this intro so it wasn’t going over already talked about area.
TLDR Normal type all in one heaters look like that could be mounted inside a vehicle, which is unsafe All in one toolbox heater don’t look like they could be mounted inside a vehicle, because they would be a horribly awkward configuration to do so
Interesting video Alex. Nicely presented and informative. Be taking a look at one myself. I did look at the original design, this is nicely thought out.
@@MispronouncedAdventures I'm currently working on a _home_ made control(ler) circuit using a 555 timer for the pump and the speed variation of the fan motor. Still wondering if one can use a linear heat sensitive resistor (thermistor?) to vary the PWM patternn(potentially build more than one 555 circuit). Need to think about safety cut-off design still.
Why fuse the plug if all the sockets are already fused? Compare with Schuko sockets and plugs: There is only a fuse in the main fuse box. So I wouldn't panic...
Panic isn’t the point, it’s not compliant in the UK law. individual sockets are not fused in the UK, our plugs are fused for each appliance. as domestic wiring normally use a ring circuits are normally protected by a larger 32A MCB ( miniature circuit breaker, technically not a fuse ) so lower ( 3A, 5A, 13A ) fused plugs are used for each appliance European domestic wiring normally use radial circuits more, small 16A MCB’s ( or fuses at the consumer unit / main fuse box ), less outlets and overall carry less load overall per circuit.
@timstradling7764 I take it apart and show it to camera in the next video. The cable is double insulated. unless, my understanding of the double insulated is wrong. The cable has two cores, live and neutral ( brown and blue ) individually sheathed and then the black outer sheathed.
Thank you, a very well made video, looking forward to watching part two. Yes, you need to change the 240v plug and use a 20 amp fuse. The sunster t10 can now support a remote carbon monoxide detector/controller which you can hang up in your vehicle. ua-cam.com/video/2BNLcSvWyGU/v-deo.htmlsi=uCFVLuHu9CNYJFsz
Honestly we burn gas in our homes every day for cooking. You can definitely use the diesel heaters in your house without needing to put the exhaust outside. Plus you get more heat that way
That’s a very fair point. I just went and checked. I looked for metal pins on the inside to push out and didn’t see them so I moved on and left it. I didn’t realise they were large plastic pins on the exterior until you’ve just made me re look.
@MispronouncedAdventures lol, I know, I just thought it might be worth pointing it out quickly. Tbh I was torn thinking about it. I hope I didn't offend, it was not my intention.
@@CombatDoc54 sounds about right for US prices, as NA price is generally are a bit cheaper than UK and EU . Looking online at US prices I can see around $199
Main legal issue with the unit isn’t the heater itself ( which I think is great ) , but the UK power supply it comes with. it ships with a unfused UK plug that falls foul of BS1363. Which is easily fixed by cutting it off and putting on a fuse UK plug. It won’t be an issue for the European or North American options.
Genuine question, unless I’ve made a mistake is there anyway that power supply be legal in the UK without a fused UK socket? Having read the regulations, I can’t see how it’s legal.
Also despite the unit power supply possibly being class two double insulated the earth pin should be conductor. Secondly the size of the moulding does not provide the required physical separation from the live and neutral.
@@WOFFY-qc9te the next video I take it apart to have a look inside one of the points I actually brought up is that it got a metal earth pin on the plug but doesn’t lead to anything. Whilst it is stamped with the double insulated logo and the cable is double insulated I thought that eliminated the requirement for it to have an earth pin.
@@MispronouncedAdventures No fuse ?, even if the power supply had an internal fuse the cable itself does not and potentially have in excess of 32 Amp nominal AC available, in real terms the peak fault current is far in excess of this and is controlled by the appropriate circuit breaker conforming to IEEE 18th Edition wiring regulations.
The Earth pin is not required for double insulated appliances however 1363 says that it should be entirely made of conductive material. The Earth pin also conducts any heat away from the plug allowing it to meet the expected power rating.
I do not recommend the power supply being in the case whilst in operation just in case any one thought that may be a good thing.
Great video I enjoyed whilst my heater burns through the kerosene. Best
@WOFFY-qc9te yes as in no fuse in the power supplies plug which is why it’s not compliant, in the next video I cut it off and add a fused plug.
The power supply plugs in the heater box externally so it would be quite difficult to actually put the power supply inside the case
@@MispronouncedAdventures The earth pin on the plug is sheathed which is another fail on top of the fuse. It can have a plastic earth pin if it is class 2 but if it was for a computer that type of power supply would have a functional earth for shielding.
Interesting video as usual. My one is the previous version which also has a barometric sensor which allows the use of plateau mode which supposedly adjusts the fuel for high altitude use. It does display the pressure altitude on the controller and seems to be pretty accurate where I live.
Looking forward to the 2nd video.
Yes definitely the previous version also has an altitude sensor. Just did it on the main board opposed to an expansion board. Both versions display the altitude which is reasonably accurate. Although with this version I kept finding high altitude/plateau mode turning on by default.
Great heater bin using one for last 12+ months no probs at all
Definitely good cost-effective options Chinese heaters. My main one fitted in my van has been in use for about four years
Great video, as usual 👌🏼 on question for the Arctic expert. When installing multiple fixed diesel heaters in your van. Do you need to use extra fuel pickup lines or can you just use a T-piece ?
Heater 1: A-term 2kw
Heater 2: A-tern 2kw
Heater 3: thermtop C (hydronic)
My model of van has an auxiliary fuel port in the sender unit so only 1 sender and then I use Y connectors. I personally use a Y over a T connector as it’s more favourable for flow.
Well, not sure about everyone else, but the comedy of errors after dropping that screw inside the case is the content I'm looking for 😂😂😂😂 Joking aside, a bit of a cliff hanger there, Alex. Not good for my anxiety levels. Just hurry up and release the next one, please 🙏
Oh, I had to leave in the comedy of errors of dropping the screw, then my tools, then the unit
My man. How can you possibly argue this is any different from the all in one diesel heaters that have the fittings coming out of the bottom and "might leak harmful gas".
It is literally the same heater, but has a solid elbow before the flexible fitting.
I don’t think you understand what I was getting across , it’s the form factor of the those all in one heaters, not the heater itself.
The “all in one” portable heaters which I show at the beginning and reference often look like and are shown as a solution for a permanent installation in a vehicle . when they’re 100% not. Their metal frame has bolt holes to be fastened down to a floor and it looks like a flexible exhaust could be added and run through the floor, and the companies often use marketing photos of showing them in vehicles. ( which I show in the video )
Someone who’s not familiar with the heaters style could think that that’s a perfectly acceptable way of mounting those type Inside a a vehicle.
Portable all on one toolbox style heaters just don’t have that sort of form factor. It wouldn’t make any sense to mount it like that in a vehicle, and very difficult to do so given the configuration of the heater.
Portable heaters like this should be mounted outside of a vehicle, tent or a space and pump hot air in.
I do actually make more of a point of this in the first video and explain how people who have done it can rectify it. I only briefly mentioned it in this intro so it wasn’t going over already talked about area.
TLDR
Normal type all in one heaters look like that could be mounted inside a vehicle, which is unsafe
All in one toolbox heater don’t look like they could be mounted inside a vehicle, because they would be a horribly awkward configuration to do so
@@MispronouncedAdventures Fair play. I've got one installed my small shop but not a vehicle, with a CO sensor. Cost me £80 and has worked a treat.
Superb content Alex as always
Glad you enjoyed my nerdy ventures into how diesel heaters are built
Interesting video Alex. Nicely presented and informative. Be taking a look at one myself. I did look at the original design, this is nicely thought out.
I definitely see version 2 as an improvement form factor wise over the original version.
Interesting stuff, thank you. Looking forward to the testing :)
Thank you. I probably go over the top with testing we have data and graphs!
I’m surprised they don’t install the muffler in the case. It looks like it would fit and remove one more external piece. Possibly a mod worth doing.
@@richardweerasinghe3296 that was also one of my thoughts as well. Plenty of space for it.
Suggestion: Swap the ECUs and see what happens.
It'd be interesting to see how they may be compatible (or not).
Having testing them both that do run differently. Ecu hardware and software both very different. would be an interesting test to see what happens
@@MispronouncedAdventures I'm currently working on a _home_ made control(ler) circuit using a 555 timer for the pump and the speed variation of the fan motor.
Still wondering if one can use a linear heat sensitive resistor (thermistor?) to vary the PWM patternn(potentially build more than one 555 circuit). Need to think about safety cut-off design still.
Not in the market for a diesel heater, but just wondering if you will be going to the Arctic again this winter?
I definitely will! and all being well leaving the first week of January
@@MispronouncedAdventures Awesome! Counting down the weeks!
@marcOSSNL I can’t wait
Why fuse the plug if all the sockets are already fused?
Compare with Schuko sockets and plugs: There is only a fuse in the main fuse box.
So I wouldn't panic...
Panic isn’t the point, it’s not compliant in the UK law.
individual sockets are not fused in the UK, our plugs are fused for each appliance. as domestic wiring normally use a ring circuits are normally protected by a larger 32A MCB ( miniature circuit breaker, technically not a fuse ) so lower ( 3A, 5A, 13A ) fused plugs are used for each appliance
European domestic wiring normally use radial circuits more, small 16A MCB’s ( or fuses at the consumer unit / main fuse box ), less outlets and overall carry less load overall per circuit.
Is this transformer double insulated ? If it is the earth prong will only be to open the ports for the live and neutral prongs ? Interested to know?
@timstradling7764 I take it apart and show it to camera in the next video. The cable is double insulated. unless, my understanding of the double insulated is wrong. The cable has two cores, live and neutral ( brown and blue ) individually sheathed and then the black outer sheathed.
Thank you , other comments from far more knowledgeable people than me.
Another useful video.
Glad you thought so!
The plug also must be a minimum size as well as the fuse ie the pins have a distance they need to be from the edge of the plug
I wasn’t aware of that particular part. The iron of this plug having BS1363 stamped on itself while it multiple things not to be compliant to it.
groovy
Thank you
Are you still thinking of changing your van
Definitely. Likely be after the coming winter and build during the middle section of next year for .
Just a slow process getting hold of a new vehicle
Thank you, a very well made video, looking forward to watching part two.
Yes, you need to change the 240v plug and use a 20 amp fuse.
The sunster t10 can now support a remote carbon monoxide detector/controller which you can hang up in your vehicle.
ua-cam.com/video/2BNLcSvWyGU/v-deo.htmlsi=uCFVLuHu9CNYJFsz
Honestly we burn gas in our homes every day for cooking. You can definitely use the diesel heaters in your house without needing to put the exhaust outside. Plus you get more heat that way
You can if you want to die with carbon monoxide poisoning!! Never use indoors without venting the exhaust outside. Crazy
Pull dem pins out on that door flap n can remove it
That’s a very fair point. I just went and checked. I looked for metal pins on the inside to push out and didn’t see them so I moved on and left it. I didn’t realise they were large plastic pins on the exterior until you’ve just made me re look.
@MispronouncedAdventures ya I didn't know until someone let me in on the secret as well lol
Surly you in the video discription mean " make it compliant" not "complain" 😜
It’s on brand to mispronounce and spell things wrong 😂😂
Fixed now, thank you
@MispronouncedAdventures lol, I know, I just thought it might be worth pointing it out quickly. Tbh I was torn thinking about it. I hope I didn't offend, it was not my intention.
@lincolndave1966able no problem at all. I’m happy to crowd source spelling corrections and mistake from the community! Definitely not offended!
180 bucks at walmart. u.s. version.
@@CombatDoc54 sounds about right for US prices, as NA price is generally are a bit cheaper than UK and EU . Looking online at US prices I can see around $199
"Halcory?" You pronounce it "Halcory?"
👍🚐😎