Tip: When taking out the Oil Filter Cup, unscrew it, but do not take it all out. Pull it enough to free the filter, and let the oil flush. After 2 or 3 minutes, you can take it without spilling oil everywhere.
Hi bro, Thanks for all your videos! Liked! Can you please tell me the part number of the intercooler pipe where the temperature sensor and boost sensor connects? Kind regards, ❤
@@moremoleculesThanks!!!!!!!111 I need to do an improvised pipe out of this as my 207 air doser connects with the other pipe, done some steel pipes but sensors don’t hold so I’ll modify this little one hopefully will be ok. Car is 207 1.6HDi 110 2006 Thank you again. You’re the best.
You're doing amazing job here, I'm really impressed with your channel! I just bought exactly the same car 1.6 hdi 90HP Escapade 2007 with just 60k miles on the clock. Do you think I should worry about the turbo? I heard there is a common issue with the oil pipe? thank you!
Thank you for the good words. I would not worry too much about the turbo as long as you change the oil on time along with the oil filter and make sure the injectors do not have black tar around them. If they do then you need to replace the injector seals. The oil pipe, you read a lot of different things and some are true some not. I had the old-type banjo bolt filter (metal mesh) and it was really clean at 100,000 miles. Some people say they clog and starve the turbo of oil. I replaced it with the new longer plastic mesh, but probably it does not make that much of a difference if you change the oil regularly.
Hi philip, the actuator you can replace without dismantling the whole thing. It is a bit problematic with the heatshields, as it is very tight space, so yes, you would probably need to remove the heatshields unless you have very small hands.
I don't suppose you have a video on the routing of the vacuum line from the waste gate actuator to the boost solenoid and showing the boost solenoid location? I've got no vacuum to the waste gate actuator, but don't want to go on a wild goose chase taking stuff apart trying to trace it to the solenoid. Talking about a 2010 Peugeot Partner II 1.6L
Unfortunately no, but this might help. Routing of the vacuum lines: frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=59967 and position of the solenoid looking from underneath the airbox: position looking from underneath the airbox: www.peugeotforums.com/threads/turbo-solenoid-valve.30056/
@@moremolecules So based on that picture in the second link the best way to access it is to jack the car up and get at it from underneath... Is that location fairly standard for this engine regardless of the specific model? I'm just asking because the picture is for a 407...
@@sailorbob74133 Yes, it is a fairly standard location. Yours is 2010, so it might have shifted a bit, but I doubt it. I do not think you can get to it from the bottom, a few heat shields and other stuff in the way. It is probably best from the top and most people do it by feel, basically by touch, unless you have a remote camera of some sort.
@@moremolecules Actually looks like I should be able to find the boost solenoid by tracing the vacuum line over from the break booster. Thanks for the tips!
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I'm in the process of doing this now, I can't get the heat shields out so I'm going to try and remove the cat first like you have but tomorrow. Yes it's annoying but that is the price you pay for performance.
Yes of course, I probably said it or maybe did not, on average they last ~100,000 miles. That is on average, of course some will last very long time, but others will not.
Which bolt is that, the top or the bottom one? If it is the top it is a bit on the difficult side, you would need something thinner to get in there. I use a very thin torque wrench.
The oil seems to be coming from the rocker cover into the air pipe, as I say the return pipe is not block I pored oil in the pipe and vanishes to sump quickly
But it is not the pipe itself, it is to test if the oil pressure and oil coming to the turbo can go back easy enough. Imagine the turbo hole itself is slightly on the smaller side, then no matter what kind of pipe you have to return oil will no be able to pass the oil quickly enough to go back to the sump. Effectively you will have pressure in the turbo cartridge that will have nowhere to go and go through the oil seals and getting burnt. Now it could be that you may have somewhat more crankcase pressure and oil getting spewed towards the turbo, but if it is not the PCV, what can you do about it? Not much, it is the pressure from the gasses going past the pistons. A fairly easy way to test this is to disconnect the vacuum pipe to the wastegate, this means no turbo. Drive it like that, if there is no smoke then it is the turbo, if there is smoke it is the crankcase. Although, if the turbo seals are passing oil, there still might be some oil burnt.
I have a few links in the description of the video along with part numbers. Generally ebay and I search for the part numbers. Otherwise you could try autodoc, I have found them helpful in the past, but could be really expensive for some parts and quite cheap for others.
Yes, it is predominantly in cold mornings, but not too cold for the glow plugs to operate. It is a bit more on cold mornings, but it is noticeable with warm weather as well.
Hi, great video. Any tips on removing the 13mm bolts on the side of DPF. I have c3 1.6hdi and am trying to do the same job currently but stuck of this. Thank you
Hi A4am, unfortunately my car did not have a DPF, but plenty of penetrating fluid should work. Soak it for a good few hours. I tend to spray it every 30min and eventually it will turn. I use PB Blaster (amzn.to/3omcS3k), seems to work for very rusty/seized bolts. A breaker bar is also very useful. Hope it helps and good luck with the replacement, hope it goes smoothly.
Just wondering if anyone can help here on a mini 2008 clubman cooper diesel, similar engine (I think)... Long story short, it's my wife's car and the turbo went, apparently making a noise with lack of power, later found out that she had topped up the oil on returning home due to the noise and didn't realise that she had over filled the oil, thinking the oil was low. I took the car for a run to see what the problem was and indeed, there was lack of power, then the car died, it'll only start now and run for around five seconds, then dies and it sounds rough... before I replace the turbo and check, possible the egr valve... is the engine ruined? Thanks
If it is the turbo (can be several other things), there should be blue smoke from the exhaust. At the first instance, plug in one of these OBDII scanners and see what errors the car will report. It is better than thinking it is the turbo, although it might well be. The errors will guide you what might be wrong.
@@spo5egy One can never beat the old-school, but sometime it is easier to narrow things down a bit. You could also for a peace of mind remove the turbo air intake and see if there is an excessive movement in the propeller shaft. If it was overfilled a bit I would drain/suck the excess, as it will never be a good thing. It will beat it up in foamy substance. Otherwise, even if the turbo is gone, it is not hugely expensive to replace.
The oil pressure switch is at the front of the engine on the block, left from the turbo. It is pretty tight there, so you may need to remove the front exhaust with the shields in order to get access to it. It is just above the oil dipstick, or where the dipstick tube goes inside the block of the engine, just above that.
I do not in general and I am more than aware that it might render it inaccurate, it was the only wrench that I had that was thin enough to fit in that space. Nothing else was possible to fit in there.
Great “how to”, many thanks for uploading it and explaining the process so well 👍 Around The 21:00 minute mark, removing The banjo bolt on top of the turbo cartridge, you point out that the turbo is separating from the exhaust side…. And use a clamp to hold it in place. What’s normally holding the turbo cartridge in place here, if not a bracket of sorts? I ask as it seems I have an air leak here on my DS5, and a slight oily haze. I’m wondering if the air pressure difference in the cartridge, apposed to the air pressure with the leak in the exhaust housing part, is allowing oil to pass the ring seal in the shaft chamber….. there is no seal here as I’ve understood it? Centrifugal force forces/throws/slings the oil away from the exhaust side of the turbo chamber doesn’t it? I know it’s an old video, but fingers crossed for an answer all the same 😁
No worries at all about the old videos, I pretty much answer on any of them. At least on my model nothing is holding the turbo cartridge! Only the connection to the exhaust part holds it. The exhaust part is then fixed with a bracket to the engine. There are no gaskets, just metal on metal, but it should not leak oil from these. It could be that there is some differential pressure and that is forcing the oil if it comes from the turbo. If I were you I would wipe everything clean and then see if it is coming from the connection between the cartridge and the exhaust side. Oily haze can come from multiple places, you have to be certain where it is coming from. The turbo cartridge itself is pretty self contained and should not leak unless there is pressure that is forcing the oil out. Wipe it all out and see where it is coming from.
@@moremolecules thanks for the reply 👍. That’s pretty much what I’ve done up until now, cleaned it off and keeping an eye on it to see if I can determine an exact location of the oil. Would the air leak alone be enough to disturb air flow/mix/pressure to set off the engine warning light do you think? I’m a little concerned the engine light might be telling there’s more problems further in the system, such as the cat or dpf being oil contaminated 🤷🏻
@@Mr_G_in_Alba Air leak will probably give you the warning light as the ECU measures the in/out air. Yes, if it is leaking oil it will end up in the DPF and will get clogged, then it is a bit expensive to replace. Where do you have the air leak and can you not fix it? Mainly leaking oil from the turbo cartridge is some sort of pressure that overcomes the oil pressure, for example oil not coming out of the return pipe freely or blocked exhaust side.
@@moremolecules the air is leaking out from a small gap between the turbo cartridge and the left hand side “snail house”, where you used the clamp in your video. I suspect this air leak is causing an air pressure difference which sis making the oil ring in the cartridge fail, or, oil is escaping the cartridge in the air when the turbo is under pressure. The only oil I’ve seen, is a haze covering the wastegate and the surrounding area. The leak isn’t bad by any means, but now I know it’s there I’m more afraid of the cat/dpf suffering damage. My plan is to slacken off what I can on the turbo house, clean off surfaces and try to tighten the leak first, before considering a refurbished replacement turbo.
@@Mr_G_in_Alba This air leak there should not cause back pressure and leaking turbo. Oil haze on the wastegate is most likely a broken rubber seal from the air intake ducting. Check the rubber red seal that meets the turbo cartridge. If that is intact, you can take out the cartridge as in the video and sand the surfaces with sandpaper to make them smooth. That should remove any air leaks.
@@slobodanp.3349 Not too sure, but there should be minimal oil loss if you only replace the banjo bolt. If I were you I would replace the banjo bolt at the next oil service. That way you would drain the old oil, replace the banjo bolt and do the two in one go.
@@slobodanp.3349 Not exactly. If both (old and new) are not blocked, the flow is the same. It is just that the new design is less prone to blockage due to the more surface. So, overall, yes there will be higher flow with the new one if there are some impurities in the oil.
Hi there just a question When you replace the new turbo cartridge is no need for calibration? Second question I have a Peugeot partner 2016 only 137000 km it makes blue and white smoke is any way to test the Turbo for sure if is leaking oil Thank you in advance
Hi Alex34417, if one is just replacing the cartridge, there is no need for any calibration. The cartridge itself should be balanced beforehand. Normally, the spin it and detect vibrations and correct this, e.g. file some metal here and there to make it spin without vibrations. This is the only calibration needed. The turbo cartridge I purchased from Nerings came with a calibration report and a graph showing the vibrations when spinning the cartridge from 0 to 120,000-140,000 rpm. As far as I remember, I showed this in one of the 5 videos. The other thing is the wastegate arm, that needs to stay at the same position where it was. It operates the flap inside the turbo housing and should stay at the same position. These are the two calibrations, nothing else is needed. When you say yours blows blue smoke, is it under load. Say you floor it and look at the rear mirror, do you get blue smoke. If yes, then it is likely to be the turbo. If it is only on cold startup, then it is unlikely to be the turbo, but say seals and oil condense in the intercooler.
@@moremolecules It is oil present on inter cooling pipes I only when I drive 15 minutes it start smoking sometimes blue sometimes white smoke if I leave the car idle stoped for 30 minutes no smoke but as I start driving for the next two or three km it smokes like hell then it stops Blue and white smoke if you drive non stop no smoke I have new cat and new dpf only one week old and is clogging dpf I think after accumulating oil then when u drive fast it burns the oil I was describing because I trust opinion thank you very much I really appreciate you’re opinion and replying to me thank you once again .
@@Alex34417 Difficult to tell, but it looks like valve stem seals, due to the stopping for a bit and then smoking. Cannot be definitive, but when stopped some oil pooled on top of the valve stem seals is leaking down in the cylinder and then smoking. If it was a turbo, it would smoke under load or when you push it and the turbo start spinning. Yes, the DPF will quickly clog.
@@moremolecules I just have changed the pcv valve the air filter was black not from oil but black smoke I opened the intake turbo I try with fingers it spins freely just a bit oil was on intake and a little bit on inter cooling hose I fully understand you more molecules, but sometimes it does smoke just on idle when is parked sometimes when you press the accelerator so all mixed symptoms I don’t think is ccv pipes !? What do think if I use a syringe to blow the Westgate if the rod pushes in then it means is pressure and no leaks if the rod doesn’t push them could be a leak just like your opinion is this a reliable test about turbo leak. When you order the cartridge and full set of seals and pipes Do you use the part number of the turbo used by Maine dealers Or the special number which marked on the turbo so let me know how I can order the right cartridge. Thank you very much for helping me out .
@@Alex34417 There is not an easy way to test the turbo seals for leakage. Not much can be deduced from the wastegate, only if it operates or not, but in any case not working wastegate will not lead to blue smoke. The turbo cartridge has to match your engine, there is only one cartridge that will fit the 1.6HDi 75bhp and 92bhp. I have used Nerings and have not had a problem since I installed my turbo in 2020, so ~1.5 years now. I cannot say anything about the other manufacturers. Basically it is the Mitsubishi turbo for the 1.6HDi 92bhp. There are not any other numbers for the cartridge itself.
Just changed turbo, cleaned sump and all related as you have done, drove 2 miles and tons of blue smoke (embarrising) any ideas? havent fitted the small turbo air pipe HEX/clip bolt yet as it wasnt supplied (just held by the normal bolt), having trouble finding one...bit dosnt appear to be leaking pressure... flushed intercooler and cat also..
That is a bit surprising. I cannot quite say why it is passing oil, but it is probably the turbo or too much crankcase gasses blowing oil from the crankcase. Open the oil filler cap and see if there is not too much pressure. THere will always be some positive pressure, but not too excessive. If it is excessive you will notice it. Is the oil return the original one or new one. It is possible that the oil from the turbo is not allowed to go back freely, this will lead to oil leaking from the internal turbo seals. I would say open the oil return into a vessel of some sort and run the engine and see how much oil comes back in 1min. Do not run the engine too long as the engine will be running without oil. There should be at least 300ml per minute returned. If it is not that, then the return might be somewhat blocked.
@@moremolecules hmm yes there does seem to be a fair bit of pressure, all the pipes and rubber are new. i also checked the holes into the engine block. But yes you could be right, another engine flush perhaps, oil and filter?? its a pain getting to that lower rubber pipe but perhaps worth a try. cheers
@@richardoloot1295 Hmm, that is a bit more difficult to track. There is always a bit of pressure, but when it is excessive you will notice. Also, remove the air intake to the turbo and see if oil has been seeping from the crankcase breather. That will confirm if it is that. Is the oil filter properly fixed in there in the hole? Did you undo the PCV system as well?
@@moremolecules you're welcome :D ! can i ask you a question about a problem with a 1.6 diesel hdi engine : when i start it the idle is kept only for few seconds (then it stalls), i see also blue smoke coming from the turbo (i cant see really well from where because i should remove the heat shields). the friend who has this car tells me that he had problems with the dpf which was clogged. do you think that the engine stalling can depend on the dpf clogged ? or also a problem with the turbo can cause it ? thanks and have a nice day !
@@valeriolombardi9744 AFAIK, a blocked/clogged DPF might cause the stalling. At the end of the day the gasses cannot escape as easily. Also, if it is blocked/clogged there will be back pressure towards the turbo. It will most likely smoke on startup as oil will pass via the seals due to the back pressure, but it should subside with driving, although if it is really blocked then you get the stalling. I would try cleaning it and there are a few videos on youtube.
In the end it was the egr valve completely stuck in open position that was causing the stalling And I checked how to clean it in an other of your videos. Thanks man and keep the good work! :)
This is possible without removing oil filter. And just dropping the exhaust a little.. not removing :) just a heads up just finished it after taking a look here 😂
Tip: When taking out the Oil Filter Cup, unscrew it, but do not take it all out. Pull it enough to free the filter, and let the oil flush. After 2 or 3 minutes, you can take it without spilling oil everywhere.
HaHa, yes, very good tip and thank you, I'll remember for next time.
Hi bro,
Thanks for all your videos! Liked!
Can you please tell me the part number of the intercooler pipe where the temperature sensor and boost sensor connects?
Kind regards, ❤
Which part is that, just the pipe from the intercooler or the whole thing with the sensors?
@@moremolecules the whole thing with the sensors, would save my boost! Thanks for your reply man, appreciated!
@@cornelb8123 Now it may be different for yours, but for my 1.6HDi, 92bhp, DV6ATED4 engine the Peugeot part number is: 0345E7. It is called air doser.
@@moremoleculesThanks!!!!!!!111 I need to do an improvised pipe out of this as my 207 air doser connects with the other pipe, done some steel pipes but sensors don’t hold so I’ll modify this little one hopefully will be ok. Car is 207 1.6HDi 110 2006
Thank you again. You’re the best.
@@cornelb8123 Yours is bit different model the 110bhp, so the part number is likely to be: 0345E5
this video has saved me twice now in a year 😅 thank you so much for producing it
You're doing amazing job here, I'm really impressed with your channel! I just bought exactly the same car 1.6 hdi 90HP Escapade 2007 with just 60k miles on the clock. Do you think I should worry about the turbo? I heard there is a common issue with the oil pipe? thank you!
Thank you for the good words. I would not worry too much about the turbo as long as you change the oil on time along with the oil filter and make sure the injectors do not have black tar around them. If they do then you need to replace the injector seals.
The oil pipe, you read a lot of different things and some are true some not. I had the old-type banjo bolt filter (metal mesh) and it was really clean at 100,000 miles. Some people say they clog and starve the turbo of oil. I replaced it with the new longer plastic mesh, but probably it does not make that much of a difference if you change the oil regularly.
@@moremolecules many thanks for your reply, I'll take a look at the injectors then! Cheers
Quite complex Oil Catch Can.
Haha, it is not too complex, seems normal to me :-)
very well told credit to you if i wanted to replace the actuater only would i have to strip it all down
Hi philip, the actuator you can replace without dismantling the whole thing. It is a bit problematic with the heatshields, as it is very tight space, so yes, you would probably need to remove the heatshields unless you have very small hands.
Very helpful, thank you👍
Slightly different turbo on my Volvo v50, but more or less same procedure.
I don't suppose you have a video on the routing of the vacuum line from the waste gate actuator to the boost solenoid and showing the boost solenoid location? I've got no vacuum to the waste gate actuator, but don't want to go on a wild goose chase taking stuff apart trying to trace it to the solenoid. Talking about a 2010 Peugeot Partner II 1.6L
Unfortunately no, but this might help. Routing of the vacuum lines: frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=59967 and position of the solenoid looking from underneath the airbox: position looking from underneath the airbox: www.peugeotforums.com/threads/turbo-solenoid-valve.30056/
@@moremolecules So based on that picture in the second link the best way to access it is to jack the car up and get at it from underneath... Is that location fairly standard for this engine regardless of the specific model? I'm just asking because the picture is for a 407...
@@sailorbob74133 Yes, it is a fairly standard location. Yours is 2010, so it might have shifted a bit, but I doubt it. I do not think you can get to it from the bottom, a few heat shields and other stuff in the way. It is probably best from the top and most people do it by feel, basically by touch, unless you have a remote camera of some sort.
@@moremolecules Actually looks like I should be able to find the boost solenoid by tracing the vacuum line over from the break booster. Thanks for the tips!
Simply excellent production, and so helpful. Thank you!
Thank you for the appreciation!
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I'm in the process of doing this now, I can't get the heat shields out so I'm going to try and remove the cat first like you have but tomorrow. Yes it's annoying but that is the price you pay for performance.
Yeah, it is a bit difficult to remove the shields. Awkward design definitely. Good luck!
Thank you for this video, and all your videos on the 1.6 hdi/tdci engine, it helps me create the grit to the many things myself
Glad they help and if I can do it, pretty much anyone can do it. That should give you the confidence to do it.
I have no issue with Mazda 3 (same engine ,1.6 hdi).
210.000 km ,original turbocharger.
Yes of course, I probably said it or maybe did not, on average they last ~100,000 miles. That is on average, of course some will last very long time, but others will not.
How do you get the other bolt out of the left hand side of the exhaust I can only get the right side out
Which bolt is that, the top or the bottom one? If it is the top it is a bit on the difficult side, you would need something thinner to get in there. I use a very thin torque wrench.
The oil seems to be coming from the rocker cover into the air pipe, as I say the return pipe is not block I pored oil in the pipe and vanishes to sump quickly
But it is not the pipe itself, it is to test if the oil pressure and oil coming to the turbo can go back easy enough. Imagine the turbo hole itself is slightly on the smaller side, then no matter what kind of pipe you have to return oil will no be able to pass the oil quickly enough to go back to the sump. Effectively you will have pressure in the turbo cartridge that will have nowhere to go and go through the oil seals and getting burnt.
Now it could be that you may have somewhat more crankcase pressure and oil getting spewed towards the turbo, but if it is not the PCV, what can you do about it? Not much, it is the pressure from the gasses going past the pistons.
A fairly easy way to test this is to disconnect the vacuum pipe to the wastegate, this means no turbo. Drive it like that, if there is no smoke then it is the turbo, if there is smoke it is the crankcase. Although, if the turbo seals are passing oil, there still might be some oil burnt.
We're u get the turbo pipes man Im looking to get it for mine can't find it were u get ur stuff
I have a few links in the description of the video along with part numbers. Generally ebay and I search for the part numbers. Otherwise you could try autodoc, I have found them helpful in the past, but could be really expensive for some parts and quite cheap for others.
When does the blue smoke appear?, is it only on cold days or all year round, because in my case it only appears on cold mornings.
Yes, it is predominantly in cold mornings, but not too cold for the glow plugs to operate. It is a bit more on cold mornings, but it is noticeable with warm weather as well.
Hi, great video. Any tips on removing the 13mm bolts on the side of DPF. I have c3 1.6hdi and am trying to do the same job currently but stuck of this. Thank you
Hi A4am, unfortunately my car did not have a DPF, but plenty of penetrating fluid should work. Soak it for a good few hours. I tend to spray it every 30min and eventually it will turn. I use PB Blaster (amzn.to/3omcS3k), seems to work for very rusty/seized bolts. A breaker bar is also very useful. Hope it helps and good luck with the replacement, hope it goes smoothly.
Does the dpf get ruined is oil leaks from turbo into exhaust?
Yeah, it would be more blocked if oil is leaking. You may potentially get away with cleaning the DPF.
is that a peugeot 308 1.6 hdi model you are working on thanks
Hi philip, it is a Peugeot Partner 2007, 1.6HDi
hi what's the part number for the replacement banjo bolt ? thanks
I think the number is 037660
Just wondering if anyone can help here on a mini 2008 clubman cooper diesel, similar engine (I think)... Long story short, it's my wife's car and the turbo went, apparently making a noise with lack of power, later found out that she had topped up the oil on returning home due to the noise and didn't realise that she had over filled the oil, thinking the oil was low. I took the car for a run to see what the problem was and indeed, there was lack of power, then the car died, it'll only start now and run for around five seconds, then dies and it sounds rough... before I replace the turbo and check, possible the egr valve... is the engine ruined? Thanks
If it is the turbo (can be several other things), there should be blue smoke from the exhaust. At the first instance, plug in one of these OBDII scanners and see what errors the car will report. It is better than thinking it is the turbo, although it might well be. The errors will guide you what might be wrong.
@@moremolecules Thank you so much! I'll have a look, I'm a pretty old school mechanic so I probably should invest in a scanner. Thanks again.
@@spo5egy One can never beat the old-school, but sometime it is easier to narrow things down a bit. You could also for a peace of mind remove the turbo air intake and see if there is an excessive movement in the propeller shaft.
If it was overfilled a bit I would drain/suck the excess, as it will never be a good thing. It will beat it up in foamy substance.
Otherwise, even if the turbo is gone, it is not hugely expensive to replace.
hi do you know where the oil pressure switch is located, i was told its behind the dpf but dont see it?
The oil pressure switch is at the front of the engine on the block, left from the turbo. It is pretty tight there, so you may need to remove the front exhaust with the shields in order to get access to it. It is just above the oil dipstick, or where the dipstick tube goes inside the block of the engine, just above that.
@@moremolecules thats brilliant many thanks, your a gent
How many hours does this job take to do?
Hi Len, it took me 4 days, roughly about 6-8h each day. I would say most time is taking bolts apart rather than anything else.
your using a torq rench as a ratchet ?
I do not in general and I am more than aware that it might render it inaccurate, it was the only wrench that I had that was thin enough to fit in that space. Nothing else was possible to fit in there.
Got 2 do what you got 2 do sometimes!!
Great “how to”, many thanks for uploading it and explaining the process so well 👍
Around The 21:00 minute mark, removing The banjo bolt on top of the turbo cartridge, you point out that the turbo is separating from the exhaust side…. And use a clamp to hold it in place. What’s normally holding the turbo cartridge in place here, if not a bracket of sorts?
I ask as it seems I have an air leak here on my DS5, and a slight oily haze. I’m wondering if the air pressure difference in the cartridge, apposed to the air pressure with the leak in the exhaust housing part, is allowing oil to pass the ring seal in the shaft chamber….. there is no seal here as I’ve understood it? Centrifugal force forces/throws/slings the oil away from the exhaust side of the turbo chamber doesn’t it?
I know it’s an old video, but fingers crossed for an answer all the same 😁
No worries at all about the old videos, I pretty much answer on any of them. At least on my model nothing is holding the turbo cartridge! Only the connection to the exhaust part holds it. The exhaust part is then fixed with a bracket to the engine. There are no gaskets, just metal on metal, but it should not leak oil from these. It could be that there is some differential pressure and that is forcing the oil if it comes from the turbo. If I were you I would wipe everything clean and then see if it is coming from the connection between the cartridge and the exhaust side. Oily haze can come from multiple places, you have to be certain where it is coming from.
The turbo cartridge itself is pretty self contained and should not leak unless there is pressure that is forcing the oil out. Wipe it all out and see where it is coming from.
@@moremolecules thanks for the reply 👍. That’s pretty much what I’ve done up until now, cleaned it off and keeping an eye on it to see if I can determine an exact location of the oil.
Would the air leak alone be enough to disturb air flow/mix/pressure to set off the engine warning light do you think? I’m a little concerned the engine light might be telling there’s more problems further in the system, such as the cat or dpf being oil contaminated 🤷🏻
@@Mr_G_in_Alba Air leak will probably give you the warning light as the ECU measures the in/out air. Yes, if it is leaking oil it will end up in the DPF and will get clogged, then it is a bit expensive to replace. Where do you have the air leak and can you not fix it? Mainly leaking oil from the turbo cartridge is some sort of pressure that overcomes the oil pressure, for example oil not coming out of the return pipe freely or blocked exhaust side.
@@moremolecules the air is leaking out from a small gap between the turbo cartridge and the left hand side “snail house”, where you used the clamp in your video. I suspect this air leak is causing an air pressure difference which sis making the oil ring in the cartridge fail, or, oil is escaping the cartridge in the air when the turbo is under pressure. The only oil I’ve seen, is a haze covering the wastegate and the surrounding area. The leak isn’t bad by any means, but now I know it’s there I’m more afraid of the cat/dpf suffering damage.
My plan is to slacken off what I can on the turbo house, clean off surfaces and try to tighten the leak first, before considering a refurbished replacement turbo.
@@Mr_G_in_Alba This air leak there should not cause back pressure and leaking turbo. Oil haze on the wastegate is most likely a broken rubber seal from the air intake ducting. Check the rubber red seal that meets the turbo cartridge. If that is intact, you can take out the cartridge as in the video and sand the surfaces with sandpaper to make them smooth. That should remove any air leaks.
Which part number is new banjo bolt,is it same as old one?
Hi Slobodan, the new lower banjo bolt has PSA part number: 037660. I think this might be the same: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293388761062
@@moremolecules Thank you very much,I think it is.Do I need to empty out oil when changing lower banjo bolt?
@@slobodanp.3349 Not too sure, but there should be minimal oil loss if you only replace the banjo bolt. If I were you I would replace the banjo bolt at the next oil service. That way you would drain the old oil, replace the banjo bolt and do the two in one go.
@@moremolecules Yes good idea,so the new design of banjo bolt has higher oil flow?
@@slobodanp.3349 Not exactly. If both (old and new) are not blocked, the flow is the same. It is just that the new design is less prone to blockage due to the more surface. So, overall, yes there will be higher flow with the new one if there are some impurities in the oil.
Hi there just a question
When you replace the new turbo cartridge is no need for calibration? Second question I have a Peugeot partner 2016 only 137000 km it makes blue and white smoke is any way to test the Turbo for sure if is leaking oil
Thank you in advance
Hi Alex34417, if one is just replacing the cartridge, there is no need for any calibration. The cartridge itself should be balanced beforehand. Normally, the spin it and detect vibrations and correct this, e.g. file some metal here and there to make it spin without vibrations. This is the only calibration needed. The turbo cartridge I purchased from Nerings came with a calibration report and a graph showing the vibrations when spinning the cartridge from 0 to 120,000-140,000 rpm. As far as I remember, I showed this in one of the 5 videos.
The other thing is the wastegate arm, that needs to stay at the same position where it was. It operates the flap inside the turbo housing and should stay at the same position. These are the two calibrations, nothing else is needed.
When you say yours blows blue smoke, is it under load. Say you floor it and look at the rear mirror, do you get blue smoke. If yes, then it is likely to be the turbo. If it is only on cold startup, then it is unlikely to be the turbo, but say seals and oil condense in the intercooler.
@@moremolecules
It is oil present on inter cooling pipes I only when I drive 15 minutes it start smoking sometimes blue sometimes white smoke if I leave the car idle stoped for 30 minutes no smoke but as I start driving for the next two or three km it smokes like hell then it stops
Blue and white smoke if you drive non stop no smoke
I have new cat and new dpf only one week old and is clogging dpf I think after accumulating oil then when u drive fast it burns the oil I was describing because I trust opinion thank you very much I really appreciate you’re opinion and replying to me thank you once again .
@@Alex34417 Difficult to tell, but it looks like valve stem seals, due to the stopping for a bit and then smoking. Cannot be definitive, but when stopped some oil pooled on top of the valve stem seals is leaking down in the cylinder and then smoking. If it was a turbo, it would smoke under load or when you push it and the turbo start spinning. Yes, the DPF will quickly clog.
@@moremolecules
I just have changed the pcv valve the air filter was black not from oil but black smoke
I opened the intake turbo I try with fingers it spins freely just a bit oil was on intake and a little bit on inter cooling hose I fully understand you more molecules, but sometimes it does smoke just on idle when is parked sometimes when you press the accelerator so all mixed symptoms I don’t think is ccv pipes !? What do think if I use a syringe to blow the Westgate if the rod pushes in then it means is pressure and no leaks if the rod doesn’t push them could be a leak just like your opinion is this a reliable test about turbo leak.
When you order the cartridge and full set of seals and pipes
Do you use the part number of the turbo used by Maine dealers
Or the special number which marked on the turbo so let me know how I can order the right cartridge.
Thank you very much for helping me out .
@@Alex34417 There is not an easy way to test the turbo seals for leakage. Not much can be deduced from the wastegate, only if it operates or not, but in any case not working wastegate will not lead to blue smoke.
The turbo cartridge has to match your engine, there is only one cartridge that will fit the 1.6HDi 75bhp and 92bhp. I have used Nerings and have not had a problem since I installed my turbo in 2020, so ~1.5 years now. I cannot say anything about the other manufacturers. Basically it is the Mitsubishi turbo for the 1.6HDi 92bhp. There are not any other numbers for the cartridge itself.
Just changed turbo, cleaned sump and all related as you have done, drove 2 miles and tons of blue smoke (embarrising) any ideas? havent fitted the small turbo air pipe HEX/clip bolt yet as it wasnt supplied (just held by the normal bolt), having trouble finding one...bit dosnt appear to be leaking pressure... flushed intercooler and cat also..
That is a bit surprising. I cannot quite say why it is passing oil, but it is probably the turbo or too much crankcase gasses blowing oil from the crankcase. Open the oil filler cap and see if there is not too much pressure. THere will always be some positive pressure, but not too excessive. If it is excessive you will notice it. Is the oil return the original one or new one. It is possible that the oil from the turbo is not allowed to go back freely, this will lead to oil leaking from the internal turbo seals. I would say open the oil return into a vessel of some sort and run the engine and see how much oil comes back in 1min. Do not run the engine too long as the engine will be running without oil. There should be at least 300ml per minute returned. If it is not that, then the return might be somewhat blocked.
@@moremolecules hmm yes there does seem to be a fair bit of pressure, all the pipes and rubber are new. i also checked the holes into the engine block. But yes you could be right, another engine flush perhaps, oil and filter?? its a pain getting to that lower rubber pipe but perhaps worth a try. cheers
@@richardoloot1295 Hmm, that is a bit more difficult to track. There is always a bit of pressure, but when it is excessive you will notice. Also, remove the air intake to the turbo and see if oil has been seeping from the crankcase breather. That will confirm if it is that.
Is the oil filter properly fixed in there in the hole? Did you undo the PCV system as well?
@@moremolecules you mean the brake vacuum unit? yes if so.
@@richardoloot1295 Not the brake vacuum unit, but the CCV or PCV valve itself, it is a simple rubber membrane with a spring.
you're amazing man !
Haha, thank you!
@@moremolecules you're welcome :D ! can i ask you a question about a problem with a 1.6 diesel hdi engine : when i start it the idle is kept only for few seconds (then it stalls), i see also blue smoke coming from the turbo (i cant see really well from where because i should remove the heat shields). the friend who has this car tells me that he had problems with the dpf which was clogged. do you think that the engine stalling can depend on the dpf clogged ? or also a problem with the turbo can cause it ? thanks and have a nice day !
@@valeriolombardi9744 AFAIK, a blocked/clogged DPF might cause the stalling. At the end of the day the gasses cannot escape as easily. Also, if it is blocked/clogged there will be back pressure towards the turbo. It will most likely smoke on startup as oil will pass via the seals due to the back pressure, but it should subside with driving, although if it is really blocked then you get the stalling. I would try cleaning it and there are a few videos on youtube.
@@moremolecules thanks a lot for the detailed answer ! i will try to clean it while demounted somehow then , thanks again ! :)
In the end it was the egr valve completely stuck in open position that was causing the stalling And I checked how to clean it in an other of your videos. Thanks man and keep the good work! :)
This is possible without removing oil filter. And just dropping the exhaust a little.. not removing :) just a heads up just finished it after taking a look here 😂
The oil filter was not removed! The oil filter was changed, as I replaced the oil feed pipe as well. Oil is too high and it will start leaking.