How to Make a Chef Knife Handle ! Chef Knife Makeover 2/4
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- Опубліковано 22 лип 2024
- Easy Custom Chef Knife Handle with OAK wood scales and BRASS pins. To Episode 1 : • How to Re Design a Che... . From Series : "Chef knife Makeover" ! aka How to customize your chef knife and finally make it yours !!! no stones were left unturned : New design, new shape, new handle, new edge and of course new style. To catch a specific episode :
• Chef Knife Makeover
Disassembling
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Disassembling the chef knife handle using a leverage action.
It's a statement for all cheap knives : Blade can be decent but the handle will always suck.
Sanding
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Clean the blade with fine sanding paper, let’s also get rid of those writings
Drilling
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I used 5mm brass rod for the pins. I needed to Drill bigger holes using a Cobalt Metal Drill bit 5.5 mm, and a drill press would have been a plus.
Tempering
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• Remove temper from a Blade is done by heating the blade to a precise temperature and by letting it cool down slowly. it makes the blade softer.
• Adding a temper to a blade is done by heating the blade to a precise temperature and by cooling it down brutally. it makes the blade harder.
EPOXY GLUEING
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Epoxy glue sets up in less than 5 minutes which is more than enough if you are prepared, but definitely too short to get any problems during action. Wear a mask, and gloves.
SHAPING THE HANDLE
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Using an electric file, customize the handle to perfectly fit your hand and your needs.
like : I made a slightly bigger handle, with an angled knife-butt to give it a sharper look.
FINISHING
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Give it a quick sanding action. And then apply
and then finish it with a coating of oil.
Did you noticed ? I am wearing my own CLOTHING BRAND ! Pizza Shirt and Power-drill guns in the kitchen :) Buy them and support the French Guy's adventures on : www.dftba.com/frenchguycooking
OR I might be wearing my favorite French clothes from Saint-James. Check them out on Saint-James.fr ! Cock-a-doodle-doo ! Cocorico !! www.saint-james.fr
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I am thinking of making an über cool cookbook, so if you are interested, drop me a line there : www.frenchguycooking.com/the-c...
Lots of love,
Alex - Навчання та стиль
I love seeing someone who keeps evolving and spreading their limits in the right way. I've loved watching you before and I still watch your videos with total joyment " even if it's something I'll never make ". You're like a small child were everytime you meet him you'll find new things in him. Bless you 🙏🏻
Means the world to me.
Just a little tip for if you ever do this again, get some oil, thread cutting oil or even some WD40 for when you bore the holes out, stainless is a sod to drill through and with no lubricant you run the risk of messing with the temper of the blade. The oil helps cool the steel and keeps the bit sharper longer.
your studio is a work of art
Alex, very "sharp" delivery! Right to the "point"! Anyone can "handle" it. There was a great "edge" to it. It was "riveting". Ok, enough puns. As always, excellent video dude. Until parts 3 and 4, stay safe!
Boy, you're "bolster"-ing my confidence with this comment !
Agreed. I had no idea it was so simple to etch the metal, definitely going to do that at home with my knife/knives to add a more personal tone to them! Also I really like the music in the background, any chance you could link the song?
Very nice style and making things easy and funny. I like that.
Drilling or cutting lubricant is your friend. Helps. Really does.
For a stronger pin, cut it off not flush but leave a little hanging out. Then peen it over (bash it a few times with the round end of a small ball peen hammer or a peening punch) and then sand it flush.
I was waiting for him to peen the pins, and he never did. That was odd.
Seriously Excellent series and wonderful channel. Thank you Alex!
Drilling... if you have a drill press, use some tungsten carbide bit to enlarge the holes. Use loads of cooling fluid and it will go like butter.
Alex, amazing video! I just love your passion for tweaking tools as well as recipes!
Great job Alex.. Not just with the knives but with the videos.. Kind of remind me of a chef version of neistat..
looks very nice! excited to see it get inked
love the series good job
Keep up the good work Alexis!
Super cool. Still waiting for mine. 👍
Excellent video
I'm just trying to put some scales on a machete, but I found some genuine pure gold right here.
Wow this is amazing!
looks great Alex
I wish I was this nifty to make my own knife upgrades. Great job alex.
Thanks mate. Promise I was easier than I thought it would be.
haha. :) I just have all of my knifes from culinary school that are getting to be a little over 6 years old. Not the best knifes, but I would look like to make them look nicer. Ill send the video to my dad to see if he thinks he can help me do the upgrade.
this is a really cool undertaking.
Alex. You are awesome. I received the same knife set for Christmas and thought, the handles suck! I'm glad I'm not the only one. Scrap wood project. New knife handles!!!
yay! I've been waiting for this one!
You're amazing man!
I really like the way you set up your own studio and many cool projects for kitchens!!!
Can't wait to see the next episode!
Cheers from Hong Kong!
HONG KONG YES !
凄い！とても素敵なナイフになりましたね！次の動画も楽しみです。
Thanks mate. I will have go at my favourite knife now. I also like the way you presented the video.
Love how nerdy you are! Keep it up!
You're a star! That's a cool knife.
You are so precise!!!!!
You inspired me to want to have a garage prepped for this kind of things.
One of my favourite knives needs a new handle. Now I know how. And I have a 150 year old oak tree that needs a bit of pruning...
Thank you!
great video
I could not care less about this topic but I like you so much I'm going to watch the entire video just to listen to that great French accent
I really want to make my own knife now, eventhough I rarely cook
This boi all about that MORTAL KOMBAT
Alex you're so awesome!
Awesome thanks
Wow this is amazing! I want to make my blade like this and make tatoo , super cool
For those of you who don't want to deal with epoxy, or just want an even more secure handle, you can peen the rivets. Just leave a few millimeters sticking out of each side of the handle, and then hammer on the end until the metal is flat/rounded and the rivet is secure.
Basically, the rivet should be squashed flat on both sides, thus locking everything in place.
Ronwe TheFallen not using epoxy will allow water to get between the scales and tang which will ultimately rust the knife and rot the sclaes.
peening pins adds stress to wood and its prone to spliting so i dont do it. i even go further and use wooden pins because they glue better and feel nicer in the hand (you cant feel them) i can post pic if you are interested
@@robertlunsford1350 I agree to the idea of using expoxy, peen rivets was the way to go before epoxy was invented.
I can see the benefit of doing both. Epoxy is a modern invention and should be used. Traditional peening done properly has benefit. A small bevel has to be made in the wood to allow brass to spread. Of course is you spread the brass with no allowance in the wood it will split
@@richardberner8711 Exactly that problem happened to me like a month after commenting that. Better late than never.
Yeaaaaa The engineer's getting technical !
Your studio looks like a submarine. 😎👍
i am jüst a pönk! i lost it xD
you rock keep it up
glad you specified the color temperature of the bulbs
Really cool Alex... congrats! :)
Gosh you're the best Giaco
Splendid Alex... ;D
what a man!!!
Do you have a diy channel? Or a studio build list? I'd love to see what all you come up with!
"at the end of the day i'm just a stupid cook" HAHAHA!!! Fantastic video series, cheers Alex!
Je suis anglophone. Mais votre video es tres bien.
Great show bro... never thought about customizing one of my knifes... maybe I should intent?
Just found this and couldn't be happier with the level of detail, the simplicity of instructions, and the clear video. Only one question; what kind of sander did you use for the shaping? I have everything else, including the excuse to buy a new power tool if I don't have it already.
nice!
Alex, a bit of advice in case you ever want to do this again. *Before* gluing the handle, sand/shape/polish to their final form the side of the scales that will end up on the blade side (i.e, the right side of the handle on 6:22). The reason for this is that this way you can make them more symmetric, while not risking scratching the blade itself as you shape them, giving your knife a much better finish. Cheers :)
i was a bit sceptical at first but that handle turned out great!
the brass should have been hammered to flatten out each side. it'll mushroom out and hold the handle in place. but this is better than anything I can do
hi alex first of all happy new year to you , I have a knife same make as that one zwilling I think , unfortunately my handle got melted , partner put tray in oven not noticing knife was still in it duh anyway will use your technique to make new handle , thanks again love your vids
I love your videos. much love from Palestine
Love ! :)
Good job, repairing my Henkel cleaver. I can’t believe they used imitation ebony way back then on a 35 year old knife.
Reminds me of my Wüsthof 4176 Classic Ikon Santoku. A bit more expensive but ready to use out of the box :)
Still, nice video series!
Wonderful Alex but some oil in 2:35 would work better in the future.
Which grit sanding paper are you using?
exciting
this is the first time to see how they do the knifs
but i think in the companies is different cause they do a big quantity
i have the machins but dont have the materials if u think to do ur own things in fact u will find every thing in the do it ur self 's stores
is it cheapier or what french guy ?
salut the big boss and thanks for this info
I remember shop class. I made a screwdriver once.
Nice work, Alex. I'd suggest for next time, if there is a next time, to shape the front of your scales before you epoxy them to the steel.
There are special drillbits for hardened steel (tempering means sth else), but you have to use them with a drillpress
Amazingly cool. I wanted a chef's knife, but somehow I could not decide on one. Now I know, what I was waitning for. My question now: How is it going with the knife after this whole time?
Interesting idea, one thing, why didn't you let the pins only 2mm on every side bigger and then hammer them?
Woooooooow
could we not use the right size brass rod
Is it possible to attach japanese wood handle to this kind of knife? I see that the handle side, there is a big chunk of metal in the shape of handle might create a problem. What do you think? I recently bought a KAI knife and I was wondering if I can change the handle sometime in the near future
Love the vid...but you should consider peining the brass rivets
Nice mora
Try putting a piece of leather between the locking pliers to avoid tool marks
Any knife maker would be VERY cautious to the point of advising against removing the temper of a blade so that you can drill it. If you must drill through tempered steel it is best to use a carbide drill bit.
Removing the temper would also mean you would have to re-temper the knife. If the blade is finished the edge of the knife can look like bacon.
Some knife makers say you should use a 24 hour epoxy because it is slow curing.
As for oil your choice leaves much to desire. Cooking oil can go rancid (FAST), especially with a knife and when you clean it. Boiled linseed oil is the first choice in wood working oil, but if you want to use an oil that you can ingest then take a trip to your health care store and get some Mineral oil laxative. If you want to make something then melt/mix the mineral oil with beeswax (3:2 mineral oil to beeswax is not a bad ratio, use more mineral oil if you want a softer product, less if you want a harder product).
The tang generally isn't tempered.
if you break a drill bit and there are still a portion that's usable you can always sharpen the tip up back again and you can use the rest of it.
+franzb69 Thanks :)
@ 1:41 Swedish Morakniv!
Why is their rust on the tang when the knife was new?
Love the idea but I'm not sure I'm brave enough to take apart my Wüsthof. Is oak the best material though? I heard that its open pores make it a poor choice for cutting boards as it tends to absorb things therefore I'd be worried about putting it on a knife.
Gideonmack hi knife maker here. And I know it's late but. Oak is a very good hard wood but it's open pores are a problem as it does tend to splinter and it will absorb things as you said. A wood like Hard Maple would be an excellent alternative.
That said if you treat and seal the Oak properly it will make an excellent if a little boring handle.
I should add that Maple has a much tighter grain and is less prone to splintering. It's a little more resistant to water damage but it mostly comes down to how you sealed the wood
Good idea, I might actually create my own handle on some cheap but good knifes I have myself. I have some where the blade is close to perfect, but the cheap plastic handle is sharp and angular and painful to hold.
Use oil when drilling
ohhh I get why you used the zwilling instead of the victorinox now. The Fibrox handle would have been much harder to remove and customize well.
It's like modifying a car to make it perform better.
Could do with a bit more sanding before you oiled it, but it's good, I like your comedy as well.
Carpenter around. Oak wood is not a bad choice but it's a very lively wood. It's also very fluffy. If it isn't aged very very well for years properly. It can leak black sludge. Beside this being dirty and smelling bad. It can mess up your connection to adhesives to metals. Nut wood is especially terrible if you are only using adhesives. Even while using industrial epoxy with wich you can glue anything together.
background music name anyone?
End of the vid bro
Any more pizza recipes in the near future??
why not pin the pins?
Hi Alex ! Can you put in the comment the list of item that you buy and the price of the handle please :D
Also, will you make a instructable for the whole custom knife series?
I did
I started similarly into knifemaking and did the same flaw... kinda flaw i guess. I put the mighty oak wood handle. durable, strong i thought. Though, do some research about pore size in wood species. for that reason its not recommended to use where frequently exposed to water, and pore structure harm final finish quality in my opinion. second handle i made was ash wood whch was as bad as oak in terms of pore size and thats when i realised that was a problem. Last handle i made was - silly i know - wood from peach fruit tree. super small pores, almost non existant like in softwoods, though its a lot stronger than e.g. fir lubmer. I say its really good enough for this purpose and accepts glue very well, naturally has very very low oil content. if anyone is interested how it turned out i can post a pic. I actually did the similar thing Alex did because im not into forging and knife steel is expensive i bought cheap chinese knife and reprofiled blade considerably and made a new handle.
I agree with wood choices. There are fruit woods and ornamentals that have extremely tight grain
Wouldn't you need rivets instead of just a copper rod to secure the handle to the tang? And worse still you made the holes bigger than the diameter of the rod?
It's brass but don't worry, its very solid.
You could just heat up the handle with a blowtorch and let it cool slowly.. Blade would be fine. And you've been able to drill BECAUSE the knife was tempered. If it would been only hardened and not tempered afterwards, it would be hard as a mot*******er and very brittle. ;)
Some wood finishing oils are poisonous or an irritant around food.
Using olive oil was a pro move.
You get extra points for that.
olive oil wont dry and it goes bad. thats why its a bad choice. oils with aditives are harmful and thats why its advised to use raw linseed oil
Very informative video but why do you have chainsaw gloves in your kitchen/ workshop lol
I’m just a PUNK!
My knife doesn't have pin holes.
Here at 121. (Has no life)
I'm totally gonna be that guy...you got cute legs dude. That said, evoo is fine for oiling your knife, but it'll get smoother with additional coats and time...at least my wood ear plugs do lol.
"Temper" is not what makes blades hard. Blades are hardened (to very hard, brittle condition), then tempered to "draw back" the hardness to something less hard and less brittle.