I got the same kit (Exedy EM1 CMC and Slave w/ braided line) but the rod and connector piece was way too long, so I swapped it with the OEM push rod and connector piece. Ive bled it so many times, no air bubbles, bled the slave, and adjusted the rod slack too, but when ever I turn on my car it refuses to go into gear. I would clutch in all the way and move my shifter left and up, but can not go up into 1st gear. Any gear would result in a lock out, and if I hold the shifter to the wall on any gear, my car would move forwards and stall out. I would also use the long rod and connector from exedy = cant even start car, because the clutch wouldn't go in all the way (too long) I'd use the long exedy rod with oem connector and the clutch was super stiff and still wouldn't go into gear either. I did a k24a swap with ACT 340 tq lbs full disc clutch and pressure plate with lightweight flywheel. I took off the inspection plate cover from the transmission and had someone press the clutch, and it looks like the pressure plate separates a good distance, and the fork moves a little less than 3/4" movement. I am out of ideas and so tired of this bs. Any ideas on what the issue could be?
I was going this route as well since I had 2nd gear grind at high rpm's but I ended up finding k20z3allmotorFTW UA-cam video on how to 'proper CMC adjustment for 8th gen Si'. Worked for me and stayed oem no more 2nd gear grind for me 👍
Did the same before in this car as well! Had my cmc adjusted perfectly and rarely had any issues with 2nd gear grind or shifting. With the em1 cmc it does feel like you can shift faster, but it’s not a crazy difference. I recommend people do like I did and only upgrade to the em1 cmc when the stock one gives out. The stainless steel lines are great too.
great video! also quick question just wanted to know where you bought the kit from?? cause i’ve been looking around on exedys website and they’re sold out, don’t know if you had a link or something, thanks!
@@npvfa5 , where did you get your steering wheel cover from? I also didn't know you could put that radio display in the 2006 model si. Did you do that yourself?
EM1 CMC has a diaphragm that delays the clutch so it’s not immediately disengaged when you put your foot to the floor, which is why sometimes you’ll get locked out of 2nd shifting from 1st while doing a pull. EM2 CMC gets rid of that diaphragm so your clutch actually engages and disengages when you want it to, and eliminating that high-RPM gear lockout (also saves your synchros some wear)
i have the exact same kit from valex racing. if you’re using an AM clutch with heavier than stock pressure plate, you need minimum 2 threads showing. if you’re running stock clutch, 3-5 threads showing. 10mm free play.
I got the same kit (Exedy EM1 CMC and Slave w/ braided line) but the rod and connector piece was way too long, so I swapped it with the OEM push rod and connector piece. Ive bled it so many times, no air bubbles, bled the slave, and adjusted the rod slack too, but when ever I turn on my car it refuses to go into gear. I would clutch in all the way and move my shifter left and up, but can not go up into 1st gear. Any gear would result in a lock out, and if I hold the shifter to the wall on any gear, my car would move forwards and stall out.
I would also use the long rod and connector from exedy = cant even start car, because the clutch wouldn't go in all the way (too long)
I'd use the long exedy rod with oem connector and the clutch was super stiff and still wouldn't go into gear either.
I did a k24a swap with ACT 340 tq lbs full disc clutch and pressure plate with lightweight flywheel. I took off the inspection plate cover from the transmission and had someone press the clutch, and it looks like the pressure plate separates a good distance, and the fork moves a little less than 3/4" movement.
I am out of ideas and so tired of this bs. Any ideas on what the issue could be?
I was going this route as well since I had 2nd gear grind at high rpm's but I ended up finding k20z3allmotorFTW UA-cam video on how to 'proper CMC adjustment for 8th gen Si'. Worked for me and stayed oem no more 2nd gear grind for me 👍
Did the same before in this car as well! Had my cmc adjusted perfectly and rarely had any issues with 2nd gear grind or shifting. With the em1 cmc it does feel like you can shift faster, but it’s not a crazy difference. I recommend people do like I did and only upgrade to the em1 cmc when the stock one gives out. The stainless steel lines are great too.
@@npvfa5 Gotcha! Might try it then when mine gives out. Thanks for the review!
great video! also quick question just wanted to know where you bought the kit from?? cause i’ve been looking around on exedys website and they’re sold out, don’t know if you had a link or something, thanks!
I purchased it on eBay! It had fast shipping, I received it within 3 days. Thanks for the feedback.
@@npvfa5no problem gotta give creds where it’s due! and thanks 🙏🏽 i’ll be purchasing one today!
Did you not swap the old rod to the new cmc? I thought that was a must lol
The exedy kit comes with the correct rod in there already.
Hey man after having it for a bit . How is it holding up and is it a noticeable difference?
Holding up well and yes it is a noticeable difference. I can shift a lot faster with this cmc compared to stock.
@@npvfa5 , where did you get your steering wheel cover from? I also didn't know you could put that radio display in the 2006 model si. Did you do that yourself?
Whats the difference with the EM2?
EM1 CMC has a diaphragm that delays the clutch so it’s not immediately disengaged when you put your foot to the floor, which is why sometimes you’ll get locked out of 2nd shifting from 1st while doing a pull. EM2 CMC gets rid of that diaphragm so your clutch actually engages and disengages when you want it to, and eliminating that high-RPM gear lockout (also saves your synchros some wear)
What did you adjust the cmc to? As in how many threads showing? Also how did you end up fixing too much play
i have the exact same kit from valex racing. if you’re using an AM clutch with heavier than stock pressure plate, you need minimum 2 threads showing. if you’re running stock clutch, 3-5 threads showing. 10mm free play.