HOW DARE YOU TAKE CAPS OFF HOW I DONT! 😆😆 Very neat work Mark. My fave method is 2 soldering irons but Im pretty decent with my left hand (ooer). Ive often snipped them off with the tips of flush cutters, that way you can nip through the can a little at a time without any pressure. But Im coming round to your twisted methods!
Hehe, SOMEBODY ON THE INTERNETZ DID SOMETHING DIFFERENT TO HOW I DO IT. The two soldering irons isn't bad, but by the time my backup warms up, I would've have already twisted off all the caps
In my opinion, the safest way to do surface mount capacitors is to mask the surrounding areas and then use a rework gun. And in regards to the twist method, I can't say either way for the Super Nintendo because I've never done that but I know from experience that you do not want to use that method on a Gameboy Advance because the pads are too delicate
Excellent advice at 9:07, I will use this in the future 😉 Very well rounded and smooth video, it shows just how much you know about the subject! Thanks for the great videos 😁
Excellent as always. I agree on the capacitors: whatever works without destroying the board. I've been leaning towards the snip method (cutting parallel to the pads to put less stress on them), but if the twist isn't pulling pads, then more power to you. If I can't cut parallel, I'd probably go Chubby Checker on them too. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Great video. The only thing I would add would be using a marker to mark the orientation/polarity of the caps prior to removing them, or taking a photo of the board prior to removing them :)
@@Okurka.You hope it shows you it correctly :) I have lost count how many times I have relied on the silk screen only to find it was incorrectly done, either when the silkscreen was added or at the design stage itself.
Good practice with anything, because in the old days some PCB silkscreen markings were on the "+" side. You see it a lot on old motherboards on Learn Electronics Repair channel.
The hot tweezers method works quite well if you add flux and fresh solder before removing the cap. But I mostly use hot air if there aren't any plastic parts nearby that would melt.
@@talos86 Clean the board first goes without saying, I guess. Some people prefer soap and water, IPA is also great. Vinegar helps with leaked batteries (the residue is basic and vinegar is an acid), but not really with leaked capacitors.
Thanks for the video! Do you know what the largest capacitor (C67) used for? I ask because I have an American SNES (NTSC) and that place on the PCB is empty. My SNES works except for the fact that the whole picture slowly scrolls in the vertical direction (wrapping from bottom of the screen back to the top). I already replaced the 6 caps near the AV port. I'll go ahead and replace all the others too. Got any other suggestions if that doesn't fix the video? Thanks again!
C67 is for smoothing out the rectified AC. NTSC consoles convert and filter the mains supply inside the external supply/wall wart. For whatever reason the Japanese consoles have a 1000uF cap there and the US consoles have nothing. Not sure if that was a cost cutting measure or perhaps the US versions use a larger cap in the external supply and didn't require the additional cap at C67. The PAL consoles take 9VAC and do all the DC conversion inside the SNES, they have a 2200uF cap at C67. Anyway, that's unlikely to be related to the scrolling issue. It could be a number of other things but it may be possible to narrow it down by knowing what video output you're using - RGB, s-video, composite, RF?
You're not using flux (which will make removal a lot easier), you're putting undue stress on the board twisting the caps and you advocate using THT caps to replace SMD. So you're recrapping the board then. Gotcha!
Twist method gang over here! I've removed hundreds of SMD caps this way and have never lifted a pad, even on some real damaged PCBs. So it seems safe and is very quick. Agree that trying to heat 1 leg and tilting it is the worst way, that one I was lifting pads quite often.
Glad to hear this works great! I’ve lifted a cap leg on my ps1 and tonight will be recapping my childhood Snes and am a little nervous about it. Gonna try this!
I'm a snipper. Twisting is just a bit too violent IMO, whereas snipping when done carefully shouldn't be pulling on the pads (I always cut in the axis of the pads, and apply some careful downwards pressure to counteract any potential upwards pulling). And no need for a lot of heat on these old PCBs. What I worry about with twisting, is the potential for sideways pulling on the potentially weakened pads.
One of the UA-camrs I watch gave a for and against with twisting, I forget who it was, but if their is corrosion or major leakage around the pad, this particular UA-camr doesn't do the twist method as there is a chance the pads will just lift. However if there is no sign of damage, twist is perfectly fine. Me, I've been too chicken to try the twist method, so I just gave after it with hot air.
I love all the armchair experts that can’t help but tell you their method is better and yours is wrong. Even after you repeatedly said this is what you prefer and they can do what they prefer. It is almost like they are a little slow to grasp things. Great video. I’m looking forward to part two.
I just gave your twisting method a try on an old Macintosh LC II motherboard that had leaky caps and it worked an absolute treat! All of the legs broke off cleanly and none of the solder pads look to have been damaged, despite the corrosive gunk that has been on there for who knows how long. With a bit of vinegar and IPA it cleaned up pretty nicely too, no severe damage that I can spot, so it looks like this board will be saved. Many thanks for showing this technique and giving me the confidence to try it!
That knowing smile at 9:20 was wonderful :) Thanks for the capacitor advice, been putting off some SMD replacement but think am going to have to bite the bullet soon so this has been really helpful!
Great video! My favourite bit was the what felt like a whole year it took for you to realise the mistake. I was chortling along. The moment you realised was a gem. Good luck with part 2!
The Twist technique appears quite logical. Yesterday, my brother and I replaced the capacitors in a Gamegear (unfortunately, it emitted a dreadful fish odor) using the method you advised against. Surprisingly, we encountered no difficulties removing the capacitors using that approach. However, your point about needing to apply more heat, particularly with faulty capacitors, is valid. I think I am going to try this twist method on a donor board. Your videos are great!
Is there a possibility HDMI Mod? I only see HDMI Mod for NES, N64, Sega already! But I don't see any HDMI mod video via Super Nintendo Entertainment System!
I think it's the tips on the tweezers, ie, thin and long so poor heat conduction to the tips. What does a power meter say, like is it 2off 10W irons - lol -.
add low temp solder and flux to the pads. it will reduce the melting point to about 130 deg C and then you can use hot air or soldering iron. For the bad condition boards it is the safest
Oooh, controversial SMD cap removal techniques. Methods 4 and 5 are my preferred - no guts no glory!😱 Also, the "perfect" amount of thermal paste went on that regulator.
Just recapped mine using the hot tweezers method. replacements were SMD also. went pretty smooth. I got the console 5 kit for it (and the other consoles i've done) and it is nice to have everything you need in one bag. everything is high quality replacements like rubycons
I just did this myself last weekend to a snes and i used the twist method. I using pliers from the top putting light pressure pushing down. Instead of single twist motion, i decided on light left and right twisting to break off the smd caps.
Sound modules can also be found in early USA SNES systems, I don't care how ugly it is, I love my low leakage through hole caps, different caps different techs for removal I reckon is the best, I would never use the twist method for the leaky caps in PC Engine Duos or Amiga 600s for instance as the pads are usually already eaten and the PCBs are shit poor quality, I like to press down pressure and then snip away, but like you said it is up to the tech doing the work and their method that works for them, good video mate, thank you for making it.
8:28 Thanks for the various SMD Cap removal methods & putting forth your preferred one. Ever since my old eyes & steady hands are beginning to lose their focus, I really appreciate alternative methods to the iron 😸
I'm surprised that twisting doesn't damage pads. It just seems like it would have the potential to do the most damage if they're already weak fron leaked fluid. But huh. If there's no damage then maybe I'll give it a try next time I mess with these. (I was doing "soldering iron to one leg while lifting gently enough to free the first leg, then go soldering iron the remaining leg to lift it away" method but I haven't done this loads of times so I'm not too invested in it or anything)
It's worth a try. I've tried all the different methods and twisting is the one that has worked best for me. If it doesn't work for you then at least you know not to bother trying it again 🙂
I've found the twist method to be the best personally. Done hundreds of SMD removals this way with no lifted pads. I don't twist back and forth like he does, just twist over and over in the same direction until the legs snap. It seems like it wouldn't work so well, but it really does.
The thing about RGB and capacitors is false. The only video output not affected by bad capacitors is RF. That's why I tell people that if they get "No Signal" or the picture's all screwy, the first step to diagnose the problem is to try it with the RF. All video signals to the AV Multi-Out go through that bank of SMD caps.
While I agree checking the RF output is a good idea as it is not affected by those capacitors, what I said about the RGB output is true. The capacitors C57-60 are on the composite and luma outputs, each has 2x100uF in parallel for the SHVC models or 1x220uF for the later models. There are no series capacitors in the RGB lines
@@TheRetroChannel Bad caps _do_ affect the sync line on the RGB though, and bad/lack of sync represents the majority of video signal issues I've seen across a couple dozen Super Famicoms. 🤔
Ahh, good point. I'm using csync which would not be affected, but certainly if the cable is wired to use sync on composite or sync on luma then yes, it will show issues if the caps are bad
@@TheRetroChannelIs there a possibility HDMI Mod? I only see HDMI Mod for NES, N64, Sega already! But I don't see any HDMI mod video via Super Nintendo Entertainment System!
A very informative video! For electrolytics both snip and twist depending on the position and condition of the capacitors. I also have a similar desoldering tweezer and it's useless like yours, it doesn't heat up at all, and I prefer to use two cheap Chinese soldering irons that work great when I harvest tantalum and ceramic capacitors from old boards.
I got a cap kit for saturn and dreamcast from console5 sent to Aus. Was $30 aud for postage. Paid for the luxury to not sit on mouser and enter all the values lol.
Wavy vertical lines might be caused by poor scart cable(not shielded adequate) and they are just power interference. (at least that what I would guess😅)
Nice job, Mark! The twist method is also what I've had good success with on Bose Wave radios (similar construction to this game console). I've been warned that the method is dangerous on some hardware, like the Amiga 600. Hmm.
Gamebit?! My PAL SNES have simple Philips head screws out of box. I got mine with the Dounkey Kong Country bundle. As for the cap removal, i dont recomment any mechanical method, because you can damage the pads more easily, than the soldering iron method. For the soldering iron method just use chipquick.
I just desolder one leg at a time. I hate hate hate hate hate HATE the "grab it with pliers and twist" method. It does against EVERYTHING I learned in electronics school.
If you need cutters/pliers you are applying mechanical force, and if the tracks are compromised by the electrolyte you may just tear them off. But hey that could be made in to another video, good for views! Alternatives include - Use an RA flux (which is better on compromised solder joints) along with a small amount of low melt solder (but don't lower iron temp below what you want to use to melt lead solder) use either an standard or tweezer iron (gyrate without force while the solder melts so it mixes new and old the solder). Use braid to remove all solder once cap is removed. Use low melt solder paste (easiest to use) see above. These methods won't apply any physical stresses and because of the use of low melt solder will lower the thermal stress also. Most (not all) issues from using an iron and lifting a track is either the track was already done for, or heat dwell time due to either inexperience or a soldering iron not applying enough heat to effectively remove the component fast enough. Sorry no video as I'm not here to drum up some fake drama to bring more views.
HOW DARE YOU TAKE CAPS OFF HOW I DONT! 😆😆
Very neat work Mark. My fave method is 2 soldering irons but Im pretty decent with my left hand (ooer). Ive often snipped them off with the tips of flush cutters, that way you can nip through the can a little at a time without any pressure. But Im coming round to your twisted methods!
Hehe, SOMEBODY ON THE INTERNETZ DID SOMETHING DIFFERENT TO HOW I DO IT.
The two soldering irons isn't bad, but by the time my backup warms up, I would've have already twisted off all the caps
Great video. Now for part 2.
In my opinion, the safest way to do surface mount capacitors is to mask the surrounding areas and then use a rework gun.
And in regards to the twist method, I can't say either way for the Super Nintendo because I've never done that but I know from experience that you do not want to use that method on a Gameboy Advance because the pads are too delicate
Excellent advice at 9:07, I will use this in the future 😉
Very well rounded and smooth video, it shows just how much you know about the subject!
Thanks for the great videos 😁
Excellent as always. I agree on the capacitors: whatever works without destroying the board. I've been leaning towards the snip method (cutting parallel to the pads to put less stress on them), but if the twist isn't pulling pads, then more power to you. If I can't cut parallel, I'd probably go Chubby Checker on them too. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Haha, Chubby Checker, nice
Great video. The only thing I would add would be using a marker to mark the orientation/polarity of the caps prior to removing them, or taking a photo of the board prior to removing them :)
@@Okurka.You hope it shows you it correctly :) I have lost count how many times I have relied on the silk screen only to find it was incorrectly done, either when the silkscreen was added or at the design stage itself.
Good practice with anything, because in the old days some PCB silkscreen markings were on the "+" side. You see it a lot on old motherboards on Learn Electronics Repair channel.
The hot tweezers method works quite well if you add flux and fresh solder before removing the cap. But I mostly use hot air if there aren't any plastic parts nearby that would melt.
Apply first vinegar to eliminate the electrolite. After that clean it with IPA.
@@talos86 Clean the board first goes without saying, I guess. Some people prefer soap and water, IPA is also great. Vinegar helps with leaked batteries (the residue is basic and vinegar is an acid), but not really with leaked capacitors.
Thanks for the video! Do you know what the largest capacitor (C67) used for? I ask because I have an American SNES (NTSC) and that place on the PCB is empty. My SNES works except for the fact that the whole picture slowly scrolls in the vertical direction (wrapping from bottom of the screen back to the top). I already replaced the 6 caps near the AV port. I'll go ahead and replace all the others too. Got any other suggestions if that doesn't fix the video? Thanks again!
C67 is for smoothing out the rectified AC. NTSC consoles convert and filter the mains supply inside the external supply/wall wart. For whatever reason the Japanese consoles have a 1000uF cap there and the US consoles have nothing. Not sure if that was a cost cutting measure or perhaps the US versions use a larger cap in the external supply and didn't require the additional cap at C67. The PAL consoles take 9VAC and do all the DC conversion inside the SNES, they have a 2200uF cap at C67.
Anyway, that's unlikely to be related to the scrolling issue. It could be a number of other things but it may be possible to narrow it down by knowing what video output you're using - RGB, s-video, composite, RF?
You're not using flux (which will make removal a lot easier), you're putting undue stress on the board twisting the caps and you advocate using THT caps to replace SMD. So you're recrapping the board then. Gotcha!
Twist method gang over here! I've removed hundreds of SMD caps this way and have never lifted a pad, even on some real damaged PCBs. So it seems safe and is very quick.
Agree that trying to heat 1 leg and tilting it is the worst way, that one I was lifting pads quite often.
Glad to hear this works great! I’ve lifted a cap leg on my ps1 and tonight will be recapping my childhood Snes and am a little nervous about it. Gonna try this!
I'm a snipper. Twisting is just a bit too violent IMO, whereas snipping when done carefully shouldn't be pulling on the pads (I always cut in the axis of the pads, and apply some careful downwards pressure to counteract any potential upwards pulling). And no need for a lot of heat on these old PCBs. What I worry about with twisting, is the potential for sideways pulling on the potentially weakened pads.
One of the UA-camrs I watch gave a for and against with twisting, I forget who it was, but if their is corrosion or major leakage around the pad, this particular UA-camr doesn't do the twist method as there is a chance the pads will just lift. However if there is no sign of damage, twist is perfectly fine.
Me, I've been too chicken to try the twist method, so I just gave after it with hot air.
I'm a wiggler/rocker. I give them a good squeeze and wiggle them back and forth til the cap separates from the legs or the legs snap off.
I love all the armchair experts that can’t help but tell you their method is better and yours is wrong. Even after you repeatedly said this is what you prefer and they can do what they prefer. It is almost like they are a little slow to grasp things.
Great video. I’m looking forward to part two.
I just gave your twisting method a try on an old Macintosh LC II motherboard that had leaky caps and it worked an absolute treat! All of the legs broke off cleanly and none of the solder pads look to have been damaged, despite the corrosive gunk that has been on there for who knows how long. With a bit of vinegar and IPA it cleaned up pretty nicely too, no severe damage that I can spot, so it looks like this board will be saved. Many thanks for showing this technique and giving me the confidence to try it!
That knowing smile at 9:20 was wonderful :)
Thanks for the capacitor advice, been putting off some SMD replacement but think am going to have to bite the bullet soon so this has been really helpful!
Twist off method is the best for me too. I know I've made a video about that before, lol.
Just starting out at fixing a few old snes consoles I have, used your twist method successfully, thanks for the lesson 👍🏻
I prefer desoldering just because Im afraid of applying mechanical force on the pads, feels like the board is less sensitive to heat than force.
I think low melt solder could help a lot with the unsoldering of those caps, even with just the soldering iron.
Ive been using low melt for the removal of surface mount IC's and its great - creates a mess though!
From what i have read in the 90,s a lot of capacitors where not made correctly and more prone to leaking..
Great video! My favourite bit was the what felt like a whole year it took for you to realise the mistake. I was chortling along. The moment you realised was a gem. Good luck with part 2!
Do whatever you want to get the caps off. I never rip them off, but please get yourself some MG Chemicals No Clean solder flux liquid.
The Twist technique appears quite logical. Yesterday, my brother and I replaced the capacitors in a Gamegear (unfortunately, it emitted a dreadful fish odor) using the method you advised against. Surprisingly, we encountered no difficulties removing the capacitors using that approach. However, your point about needing to apply more heat, particularly with faulty capacitors, is valid. I think I am going to try this twist method on a donor board. Your videos are great!
What I'd give to see the number of dislikes on this video... 🤣
Build it and they will come
Is there a possibility HDMI Mod? I only see HDMI Mod for NES, N64, Sega already! But I don't see any HDMI mod video via Super Nintendo Entertainment System!
I think it's the tips on the tweezers, ie, thin and long so poor heat conduction to the tips. What does a power meter say, like is it 2off 10W irons - lol -.
add low temp solder and flux to the pads. it will reduce the melting point to about 130 deg C and then you can use hot air or soldering iron. For the bad condition boards it is the safest
That was the most informative Retro Repair video I've ever seen. And I've watched many, if not all of them. Thank you very much!
putting capacitors under a heatsink always seems like a bad idea, at least to me
Why not replace them with Tantalium capacitors? I've heard it's the top of the line...
Just starting out at fixing a few old snes consoles I have, used your twist method successfully, thanks for the lesson 👍🏻
Oooh, controversial SMD cap removal techniques.
Methods 4 and 5 are my preferred - no guts no glory!😱
Also, the "perfect" amount of thermal paste went on that regulator.
Just recapped mine using the hot tweezers method. replacements were SMD also. went pretty smooth. I got the console 5 kit for it (and the other consoles i've done) and it is nice to have everything you need in one bag. everything is high quality replacements like rubycons
I just did this myself last weekend to a snes and i used the twist method. I using pliers from the top putting light pressure pushing down. Instead of single twist motion, i decided on light left and right twisting to break off the smd caps.
If you use a heat gun, don't forget to use eye protection ...
I do the last method, the same as you prefer 😄
Sound modules can also be found in early USA SNES systems, I don't care how ugly it is, I love my low leakage through hole caps, different caps different techs for removal I reckon is the best, I would never use the twist method for the leaky caps in PC Engine Duos or Amiga 600s for instance as the pads are usually already eaten and the PCBs are shit poor quality, I like to press down pressure and then snip away, but like you said it is up to the tech doing the work and their method that works for them, good video mate, thank you for making it.
Ah the look of "I friggin dare you" at 9:13. Brilliant.
8:28 Thanks for the various SMD Cap removal methods & putting forth your preferred one.
Ever since my old eyes & steady hands are beginning to lose their focus, I really appreciate alternative methods to the iron 😸
see ppu2 pin 36.... or ppu faulty.
Title sreen: "Remvoing SMD Caps"? ..."removing" sounds better 😇
Haha, my brain was telling me something didn't look right with the thumbnail, it just wouldn't tell me what. Fixed now
what size solder are you using?
I clean all flux off the board.
I'm surprised that twisting doesn't damage pads. It just seems like it would have the potential to do the most damage if they're already weak fron leaked fluid. But huh. If there's no damage then maybe I'll give it a try next time I mess with these.
(I was doing "soldering iron to one leg while lifting gently enough to free the first leg, then go soldering iron the remaining leg to lift it away" method but I haven't done this loads of times so I'm not too invested in it or anything)
It's worth a try. I've tried all the different methods and twisting is the one that has worked best for me. If it doesn't work for you then at least you know not to bother trying it again 🙂
I've found the twist method to be the best personally. Done hundreds of SMD removals this way with no lifted pads. I don't twist back and forth like he does, just twist over and over in the same direction until the legs snap. It seems like it wouldn't work so well, but it really does.
The thing about RGB and capacitors is false. The only video output not affected by bad capacitors is RF. That's why I tell people that if they get "No Signal" or the picture's all screwy, the first step to diagnose the problem is to try it with the RF.
All video signals to the AV Multi-Out go through that bank of SMD caps.
While I agree checking the RF output is a good idea as it is not affected by those capacitors, what I said about the RGB output is true. The capacitors C57-60 are on the composite and luma outputs, each has 2x100uF in parallel for the SHVC models or 1x220uF for the later models. There are no series capacitors in the RGB lines
@@TheRetroChannel Bad caps _do_ affect the sync line on the RGB though, and bad/lack of sync represents the majority of video signal issues I've seen across a couple dozen Super Famicoms. 🤔
Ahh, good point. I'm using csync which would not be affected, but certainly if the cable is wired to use sync on composite or sync on luma then yes, it will show issues if the caps are bad
Dragon 32 folder????? was there a tear in the fabric of reality that I missed.
Nah, I just use the same sd card for multiple flashcarts.
@@TheRetroChannelIs there a possibility HDMI Mod? I only see HDMI Mod for NES, N64, Sega already! But I don't see any HDMI mod video via Super Nintendo Entertainment System!
A very informative video! For electrolytics both snip and twist depending on the position and condition of the capacitors.
I also have a similar desoldering tweezer and it's useless like yours, it doesn't heat up at all, and I prefer to use two cheap Chinese soldering irons that work great when I harvest tantalum and ceramic capacitors from old boards.
I got a cap kit for saturn and dreamcast from console5 sent to Aus. Was $30 aud for postage. Paid for the luxury to not sit on mouser and enter all the values lol.
Next time I try the "Let's do the Twist" Method! 😉👍🏻
Wavy vertical lines might be caused by poor scart cable(not shielded adequate) and they are just power interference. (at least that what I would guess😅)
It is a cheap scart cable, but it works ok.
Nice job, Mark! The twist method is also what I've had good success with on Bose Wave radios (similar construction to this game console). I've been warned that the method is dangerous on some hardware, like the Amiga 600. Hmm.
Oh yeah I forgot to mention you're not allowed to do it on Amigas. Don't even think about it, and if you do try it, you better hope nobody finds out 😜
@@TheRetroChannel :)
Gamebit?! My PAL SNES have simple Philips head screws out of box. I got mine with the Dounkey Kong Country bundle. As for the cap removal, i dont recomment any mechanical method, because you can damage the pads more easily, than the soldering iron method. For the soldering iron method just use chipquick.
Interesting, I have a couple of PAL models and they both have gamebit screws.
@@TheRetroChannel i got it as a Christmas present as a kid. Its plausible, that it was a warranty refurbished unit.
With my snes easiest way was to use hot air and tweezers. And to be honest solder they used make it super simple😊
I just desolder one leg at a time.
I hate hate hate hate hate HATE the "grab it with pliers and twist" method. It does against EVERYTHING I learned in electronics school.
You don't need to like it, but a lot of people do it without issue.
Also, where is your video? 😝
@@TheRetroChannel On my channel. It's the Gameboy Color restoration. Around the 1 hour and twenty ish minute mark.
🍪
🔄🧢😯
If you need cutters/pliers you are applying mechanical force, and if the tracks are compromised by the electrolyte you may just tear them off. But hey that could be made in to another video, good for views!
Alternatives include - Use an RA flux (which is better on compromised solder joints) along with a small amount of low melt solder (but don't lower iron temp below what you want to use to melt lead solder) use either an standard or tweezer iron (gyrate without force while the solder melts so it mixes new and old the solder). Use braid to remove all solder once cap is removed.
Use low melt solder paste (easiest to use) see above.
These methods won't apply any physical stresses and because of the use of low melt solder will lower the thermal stress also.
Most (not all) issues from using an iron and lifting a track is either the track was already done for, or heat dwell time due to either inexperience or a soldering iron not applying enough heat to effectively remove the component fast enough.
Sorry no video as I'm not here to drum up some fake drama to bring more views.