Ballancing is needed when expanding the pack. The instructions from Pylontech are "When parallel different SOC/Voltages of modult together, please maintain the system in idle for >15 mins or until the LEDs become similare (
Follow-on Video now available dealing with FAQs that have arisen ua-cam.com/video/MLr_KUoSDfk/v-deo.html Particularly that the US2000/2000B CAN Cable does not usually work with a US2000C, US3000C or US5000 battery. 🔸US2000B to US2000C/3000C/5000 CAN CABLE ADAPTER in stock on ebay - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234982424825 Unless demand increases this will be the last 20 I make, this was always to help people out, not to become a mini-business!
Thanks for your contribution! Had the same issue mixing US2000B and US2000C. which first did not work. Your vid and a contribution in the Victron forum "newest Firmware always to be master" helped me fixing.
Thank you for taking the time to post this very helpful video up.could you tell me where did you run the earth to .... was it the main earth point for the house or linked to the earth on the inverter to get back to the main house earth ponit ?
You want to minimise the number of hops between anything installed that is earthed and the main house earth point, however you also don't want any scope for a voltage differential with the inverter so... I had a big earth connection nearby that all the major earths are taken from including the inverter so I took it from that. If that is not feasible then I would say to earth it to an earth point on the inverter itself if it has one, or see where the inverter joins to earth - probably at the consumer unit earth distribution bus. Any electrictionas out there with a different view?
@@MakeOrRepair thanks for the considered reply. It’s a system in a workshop so a distance from the earth rods that provide the house earth. Unless anyone pops up with more suggestions ( thanks for yours) I think I’ll add another earth rod and connect it to that so it’s independent from the main house earth.
I noticed an extra positive and negative ports on the batteries. Could I hypothetically use them to connect EXTRA CABLES going to the inverter via a fuse . So im thinking it's like having a thicker cable, two for the positive and two for the negative . . Hope I've accurately described what I ment . Looking forward on some feedback ?
I think the pylontech cables are rated for up to 5 batteries per set joined as shown, but as usual check the spec, I think they are something like 35mm square. I would not use two smaller cables to try and make up the capacity - stick with the heavy duty proper cables. If you installed 5 batteries or more then I think you would indeed need to parallel up so you had two positive and two negative, taking from top and bottom so that there is no over-heating in the shorter link cables and ensuring you ballance the battery charge before installing. I would add the second long pair at the 5th Battery. You would never have to go beyond that because if I recall correctly there is a max of 8 batteries in a group after which you have to install controllers and stuff.
Just wondering - does the victron monitor and protect the pylontech batteries in terms of fault disconnection etc (e.g. overload). I'm presuming it will if its monitoring grid usage, so I'm just wondering if you you have a DC fuse between the inverter and the batteries?, or for that matter is there a MCCB where the AC side of the inverter connects to the grid, I'm guessing that would be higher than the rating of the inverter in terms of max fault Amps.
The inverter limits the current drawn from the batteries, but batteries are also internally managed. Isolator switch between batteries and inverter. There should always be some sort of mccb etc between the inverter and AC grid, I think itbis a prerequisite if you plan to export. Exact requirements will depend on the inverter and can be found in installation manuals.
I use a Sofar hybid, the HYD 3600, it has 2 channels for PV with 4KW max input but each of the 2 MPPT (1 on each of the 2 channels) tracks a max of 2.4WK for max efficiency so the 10x380W panel I use are split into 2 groups of 5 otherwise I would lose efficieny on the brightest days by sending 3.8kW to a 2.4Kw tracker. Assuming there is charge in the batteries it can also use batteires to run an emergency 1KW circuit in event of power failure. Regarding the current the US2000B/C it is 25A CONSTANT per battery at a nominal 48V which is 1.2KW per battery and at that rate the battery would discharge in less than 2 hours however it can handle much higher peaks for a few minutes (but never will because the inverter will get that from mains). The difference between the B and C is mainly discharge depth. 25A is also the optimal charge rate (for the bulk of the charge) so they take a minimum 2 hours to charge from flat. BUT it is the inverter that ultimately limits the amount of current provided for charge and depth of discharge and it should be programmed to maximise the life of the batteries; the HYD3600 recognises the pylontech batteries and is pre-programmed for the B model which means that when the batteries discharge to about 19% (firmware update might change this) it stops using them since an 80% cycle is optimal for life although the C can go to 95% that does not mean it is advisable. I don't have experience of other makes so I would not necessarily reccomend my inverter nor choice of battery but I would say that using an inverter that does explicitly support the model of battery is critical. All you can do is look at the data sheets carefully en.pylontech.com.cn/pro_detail.aspx?id=114&cid=23. My strategy to maximise savings was to fit one battery along with the inverter but specifiy that I wanted to add more later, then I monitor actual usage data to see where and why I was still buying and exporting, when the battery was charging etc. and then decide if a battery would deal with those problems and if there were enough excess from the PVs to charge it (no point in having a battery if you can't charge it). I had to use my system without batteries when it was installed and would make pretty good savings but I was exporting a lot of what I produced (with little payment) and still buying quite a bit; the batteries reduce the amount I export by about 2kwh per battery per day and of course delay when I have to start buying in the evening. smooth out any cloudy times and high usage times when the panels don't produce a lot; as the cost of electricity rises the batteries become more cost effective, initial outlay was higher but using batteries in the uk was definately the right choice for me (I use a lot of electricity though). I did also switch to Octopus Agile Go because that sells me very low cost electricity at night which I can store int he batteries and use later, particularly handy between September and March. 7.2kW seems to be about optimal for me at the moment, but I might increase to 9.6 if electricity prices go up a lot, but it will partly depend on if Octopus keep offering the Agile Go scheme given the problem in the electircty market at the moment.
Hi, could I please ask where you obtained your 2000C battery commission cable ? I've had 2 of these units for 3 months and I'm having a ridiculous time sourcing the communication cable to the inverter. They were advertised as 2000's and I obviously assumed my current cable would be fine. They've also buggered about with the dip switch and the layout, this isn't an issue, but why? Anyway, my Goodwe 5048EM backup inverter is a CANbus connection, do you know what the RJ45 pinouts are at the battery end please? I've tried the ones on the manual but no joy! My 4 older 2000's have been running problem free for 4 years, love them, just wish they'd continued with them!😂
My cable came with inverter. I've looked at the 2000 and 2000C manual and am surprised the CAN pinout does differ slightly, in particular CAN ground has moved from pin 2 to pin 6 and pin 1-3 should be left unconnected. en.pylontech.com.cn/download.aspx?id=165 is the manual for the 2000, pinout on page 13 atersa.shop/app/uploads/2021/03/US2000C-Product-Manual-V1.0-20CPSV0901-.pdf is for the 2000C, pinout on page 8 I've seen some listed on ebay but they are not exactly clear what connections they have Anyway hope the pinout helps
I will soon (next few days) be listing a low cost adapter on ebay that enables the "B" cable to work with the "C" at lwast if it is a CAN cable. I'll also be putting up a video that shows how I made it. Hope that helps if you still need it.
You should in the first instance test old existing battery voltage , and the new Battery voltage. If they are different, you need to balance the batteries or they will memory charge individually. Basically, you disconnect the comms RJ45's then with the battery terminals in Parallel, not connected to your inverter, turn on all the batteries and they will balance under 2 hours and then go on standby. This way they will all charge evenly.
I meant to pin something about ballancing at the top of the comments. I did mention it in another coment. I've never gone to the lengths you suggest - simply install when the existing is about 50% during a charge period- which is what the new one is delivered at, the BMS should be capable of managing small differences. I've seen them installed fine without any regard but also heard some people have problems when not ballanced - who had to disconnect - ballance then reconnect - however I have not heard of a lasting "memory" effect in this type. I feel uncomfortable running without intrer battery management connected unless there is supervision - that was found to be the cause of the latest big battery fire! and these batteries can't be extinguished.
Not 100% sure, the panel is largely irrelevant, it is the inverter/charger that matters, these are really meant to be managed using a compatible device - unless anyone knows different.
Hi, I have exact same configuration as yours, however I get an alarm on the older us2000. If I take the comms cable from the second C model out of the link port 1 and into the RS485 it goes to normal. However I'm not sure the BMS is working?! Also when connecting to RS485, don't you have to fiddle with the dip switch settings? (The one C is master). Also your master black cable is off the older one, is that ok?
I tried using the newer us2000b as master instead of us2000c but it did not like it. So top to bottom I have newest 2000c, slightly older 2000c then the new 2000b. Regarding taking black and red from top or bottom, it does not matter since all the blacks are joined together, and so are all the reds. I have since relocated them and both come from the bottom. I'm not sure that connecting link2 to rs485 would allow it to operate as a slave, I would be tempted to try the stack in a different order. Regarding dip switches, they should all be the same, rembering that they are upside-down on the 2000c, can't remember which orientation on 2000b.
I have setup as you have, One of the new C as the master. Comms cable as yours, inverter cable into Can, leave top zero open then 1-0. Powers on seems ok, green lights then few seconds just the run light and then 10 mins later red light on master! Dip switches all to default. Puzzled!
@@kellisonline HArd to know what to suggest. Fisrt I think the address switches are oposite ways around on the 2000B and 2000C so make sure they are all set to the "off" side of the switch. Next pinout for the CAN is different between the 2000B and 2000C - Why - no idea! So if you had it working previously with just a 2000 or 2000B and are using the same cable then that might be the problem. See my earlier discussion with Paul Cahill.
For now I have disconnected the older 2000b - the 2 new C's appear to be in idle mode!? - the Run light flashes every 4 secs. Inverter states battery at zero
@@kellisonline and are the unit charge lights also showing zero? zero sounds a bit concerning the bms should not let them go that low but perhaps that is how your inverter reports. Hope you start seeming charge reported as the day brightens, otherwise putting money on the cable. Just had a thought, you would need to check manual, but I think if you disconnect the inverter comms cable then the 3 batteries should talk to each other and balance their charge. I think I pinned a comment with a quote from the manual.if that works it is definitely the inverter comms cable.
Just measured them, in mm without either the mounting frames or rack mount breackets: width 440, depth front to back 412 exclusing switches and connectors on front panel, height 90 with the brackets they fit a standard rack so far as I can see. There are only connectors on the fronUse philips #1 to remove brackets, first just trying to break paint that has gone under head, if the screw gets messed up (which is easy because they are quite soft metal) then use a 5-5.5mm bit (whatever size under 1/4 for the non-metric) to drill off the heads, then you get about 2mm of thread left sticking out that you can unscrew with pliers. Hope that helps. Mine don't seem to get very warm but I would always leave a little air space around them, if stacking then just a few small wooden blocks (or better rubber feet) to act as about 1/2 inch separator is enough
Thanks for the video. So did you mean you could have added a Us3000 as well, but then it should become the master? What about balancing the Us3000 with the remaining? I have 3 us2000 and want to add another one but was thinking of getting a Us3000 as the extra. Will it work?
I have not tried it but I understand from several other people when I was researching that you can mix the 3000 and 2000 and that the new 3000 is used as master and can communicate to ensure appropriate balancing, again going for about 50% charge across all the batteries before connecting. I would suggest having a good search for manuals and datasheets for the 3000/2000s. BUT I have always found that £/Kw the 2000 to be slightly better value.
How far can I have the batteries from the inverter? I would like to have the batteries outside in a shed, but my mains in is at the other end of the house ... Is it better to run a long grid/mains cable, or a long battery cable?
First, the batteries should not be put un humid locations. distance can be fairly long, you gave to run the comms cable, which is CAN so there will a fairly long limit for that depending in speed, say 100m to be safe. But there are serious issues with the power cables. At only 50v dc but very high current you need very large cables itherwuse you get big voltage drop along the cable and waste energy. Also with say 50A current, they are lethal, and the longer the run the more opportunity for damage. so you would need something like steel conduit to house them, which in turn derates the cable. I can't remember the cable Size but price up something bigger than 25mm square. In summary although possible, not recommended.
Sorry, missed your last question. I think it will be cheaper and safer to run armoured mains cable, but the overall safety, convenience and cost probably involves other factors, your inverter us probably going to need a sensor on the cable that feeds mains into your house for example. You can hang batteries on the wall.
@@MakeOrRepair thanks for the quick reply. Maybe i'm worrying unnecessarily, as I have a basement below my consumer unit and the batteries could go directly below - I was just worried about fire risk.
@@timpala5841 pros and cons with each option. Most faults that could lead to fire are likely to happen just after installation, but are very rare given the bms also tries to prevent overheating. If you have suffient monitoring in the software then you can see a graph if battery temperature. I keep a gap between the batteries of about 1cm to help airflow. My batteries charging last night at 1kw each got to 33c
Do you think this Is installable by myself instead of paying the company to come and add a second one, I've only got one 2000C at present and got one on order? Thanks
I don't know how comfortable you are with electrical fittings, but I would say these are within the capability of most people, other than to connect the earth cable there are not even any screws involved, unless you plan to use the stackable brackets you don't need to take the brackets off. All the cables are provided and simply plug in. But do download the us2000c manual (I think you get one in the box but you can download and look in advance) and it has plenty of detail on connecting them. I think the connectors are designed pretty well it would be hard to accidentally get your fingers in contact with the conductors, but you will one red and one black socket not conected to anything so do put he little caps back on them (I notice little fingers in your photo). There is safety information in the manual but If after looking at the manual you feel concerned then get help (and it is sensible to have someone around just in case - not just for electrical risks, but they are heavy and if you work in a confined space there are other difficulties that can occur) The general recomendation is to put the newest one as "master" since it will have the latest firmware, also to get your old one to about 50% charge before adding the second one (it comes 50% charged) so they are "balanced". You then make sure BOTH are switched off, and if there is a separate battery isolation switch between battery and inverter then turn that off too. Put the new one in place then do the cables . Use the provided short cables to connect them in parallel red-to red, black to black, if you choose to relacate the inverter cables to make it tidier then the cables have a little button to release them and are stiff to remove, you have to push on firmly until you feel a small click. The data cable from the inverter plugs into the CAN socket so you are just moving it from the old to new battery, then the short data cable connects link 1 (lower) socket on the master to the link 0 socket on the slave (older one). You can see how that works in the video and the manual shows it really well. Turn on both at the main switchs (then the inverter -battery isolation if there was one) then press the little round "start" button on the master - they should both start in sequence, if you do get a fault light (like I did) then turn them off, check the cables - if they are all okay then swap the master slave - but the manual and the video should help you. Most inverters should understand them just fine to charge and discharge using solar, but, if like me you use overnight charging (cheap electricity) then you might need to modify the charging times/rate on the inverter. HOpe that helps
@@MakeOrRepair Sorry one last question if you dont mind. if there is no isolation between the inverter and the battery do i need to turn off isolator? Thanks again for your advice mate
@Andy Robinson Sent a response to your photo. Well you could essentially disconnect panels with the isolator shown in your photo and then isolate the inverter from the mains grid, which amounts to taking the inverter out of service, but I've never done so, But it is essential that all the batteries are switched off before doing anything! The only power cables you might come into contact with are the heavily insulated red/black heavy duty battery cables and with your setup I can't see a need to disturb them at all, just leave them plugged in as they are - that said it seems pointless disturbing the inverter. Plenty of room to link the new battery without disturbing them. 1.Turn of battaries, 2. put new battery behind/on top of old leaving a small gap for airflow, 3. Connect the short red/black cables + to +, - to - as shown in manual and at end of my video 4. put in the data link cable link1 (bottom) on new, to link 0 (top)on old 5. move the data cable coming from the inverter from the socket on the old battery to the same socket on the new. 6. Switch on both power toggle switches 7. Press the little red button on the new on (the master) for about 1 second and release and both batteries should com into servive one at a time. Just be aware that the inverter should flag (and log) the failure of comms with the battery when you turn it off, so it is normal to see that alert in the logs (and I have no idea how you access the logs on your inverter mine just appears in the monitoring software for 30 days).
I'm also on Octopus Go, 15p/5p. It's very good for now, but I have a suspicion that they're going to take it off me at the end of my current contract. I have 15kWh of US3000C which I fill to 80% in that golden 4 hour period.
Yes, mine ends in June, not looking forward to it, on positive note I stuck with octopus to sell excess although they paying slightly less than one I found, but they just increased the amount yhey pay
I’ve had these batteries 4 years and also on Go. My contract ran out last month and it’s now 7.5p per unit over night. I can’t actually remember the day rate but usually I don’t consume grid electricity during the day or at least not much. Best thing I ever did was to buy these.
@@mollyfilms Well less frightened than I was thanks! That reminded me, I can check on the public Octopus API api.octopus.energy/v1/products/?brand=OCTOPUS_ENERGY&is_green=true For 1st April scheme, assuming they don't add another, it looks like mine is going to be about 29.8/7.5 and standing charge 26p/day. My export is about 4.1. so 50% night-time and 100% day-time increase. To get detailed information you need to find what region code covers you because prices vary over the UK. I too buy as little energy during the day as possible - although December was not great. I need to download the data and put my new prices against it, then I can see if a 4th battery woud make sense.
Do you mean in the way I bend the cables - it does not really matter electrically so long as the batteries are connected in parallel. I find this layout reduces the stress on the cable plug and makes it easier to put on and take off if you need to, and keeps it nice and tidy.
Hi, thanks for sharing! You could use these Pylontech modules instead of a generator set? I could recharge them from the electricity grid at night and then use them instead of the diesel generator to give energy to the electric utwnsiles by day?
I suppose with the right type of inverter, but normal hybrid inverters would not work if the mains failed / disconnected from the mains. Mine for example will operate a 1KW emergency circuit if the mains is disconnected whereas with the mains present (and essentially doing nothing) it will happily deliver almost 3.7kW all from the batties - the limit of the inverter not the batteries. I think Pylontech and presumably several other firms do some other batteries actually designed for the job! It seems to me that generators have a certain ability to just keep going whereas with batteries once they have discharged... also I would have thought there would be a big cost disadvantage with batteries but I no nothing about using generators!
@@MakeOrRepair Thank you so much for the answer, I have an idea to feed 3 fridge for at least 10 hours a day, they consume about 2kW stores and then constant about 300W. Do you think 4 pyllontech can feed them for about 10 hours and with the off-grid inverter?
@@fabioyeah5051I'm not sure how much I can help you, we are going a fair way from using batteries as part of a solar installation - anwy I'll just give you my thoughts: If you are charging by night from grid, then with grid still on wanting to run them from battery then there are plenty of inverters that could do that, Options reduce if you want both on-grid and off-grid. I really suggest you get a few quotes from companies, even if you don't use them it will give you a far better feel for the available products and the issues that might arise. Anyway without solar input I'm not sure the saving on electicity is enough - using my current prices of 5p at night and 15p during the day, that is a single charge of 9kW approx giving a saving of just 90pence per day x365 = £328 per year so the payback time on 4 batteries + an inverter is perhaps as much as 15 years, by which time you might be worried about reliability and life expectancy of the inverter/batteries! Of course if the gap between nighttime costs and daytime costs grows then the payback period reduces. An of course if you are using large fridges with high value losses if they fail then there are other factors that I don't really take account of. To the battery capacity - 300W per Fridge - I assume they are large then, I run 3 under counter fridges and my total usage is under 300W for them all. I'm not sure what the reference to "2KW stores" means. kW is just a measure at a moment in time, you need to know the KWh i.e. the power usage per hour because the fridge compressor presumably is not running 100% of the time; perhaps you meant 2kWh to get them started then 300Wh every hour after that? Anyway from the kWh you can simply multiply by 10 and you will need about 1.2 x that amount in battery capacity since your batteries will not fully discharge. As I said, pylontech or some other compny probably has a more approriate off the shelf solution for this. But if each Fridge used 300W fairly constantly then that is 300 watts per hour = 0.3kWh each, x10= 3KWh every 10 hours giving 9kwh used per 10 hours for 3 fridges. Now 4x2.4KWh batteries = 9.6kWh so it is marginal and would depend on the depth of discharge that the inverter allows, but while they might consume 300 Watts while running , are they consuming that all the time? But got to be honest, this sounds very expensive, as you are describing it you can only charge these batteries once a day, so roughly speaking that is just 9kW hours, adding solar pv into the mix would bring the cost up a small proportion but the payback time down a lot (once you decide to invest in an inverter then panels are the cheapest part - in the region of £120 per 350 watts peak)
You do it from inverter front panel-It takes a bit to get used to, I'll look up the page in the manual tomorrow then should be able to explain, not sure of your inverter model but will explain for mine, hopefully yours won't differ much
@@chrishucker9339 This looks similar to my hybrid although the menus differ slightly. Its a bit awkward because there are only 4 buttons. I got your manual here midsummerwholesale.co.uk/pdfs/sofar-me3000sp-manual-v1-5.pdf The program I use is a "time of use" program which essentially switches the batteries to charge from mains supply for a specific period overnight when I have cheap electricity, I think it is easiest but you might think about "timing mode". Outside that time the batteries just operate on auto. I alter the times slightly for winter (when I need to have fully charged batteries to start the day) and Summer when they just need a bit of a top-up to keep me going till about 8ish when the panels kick in. 1. Buttons are described in section 5.1 on page 19. 2. So having figured out the buttons you press "Back" to get the menu 3. PAGE 25 now use the up/down enter to pick option 1 - settings 3. Now pick option 12 WORK MODE SET (DO NOT PICK BATTERY PARAMETER) PAGE 31 describes AUTO WORK MODE, Page 32 Describes TIME OF USE Page 33 descrives Timing mode SO assuming you are going to use TIme of use use the arrows, pick it and then you just use "enter" to step through each digit on the screen and the up/down to change the value, when it loops back to the top just press "Back" button repeatedly untiil you get back to the main screen Not the easiest thing to explain If you get something wrong with the timingthen just go back though and change it or pick AUTO work mode to get back to normal This is the best I can really do so hope that helps
@@MakeOrRepair Thanks I will have a good look through the manual and make sure I know what I’m doing first. My concern is I don’t have a cheaper charge time but I have a good feedin tariff, and I don’t won’t to charge the battery at the cost of losing the feedin tariff if that makes sense. I find that it charges to 80% from the grid at night but then the solar has to ring it up to 90 + which could take us to 11 am this could be going back to the grid at the higher price. Thanks for your help Chris
@@chrishucker9339 Well normally the amount you pay to buy electricity exceeds the price you get from the feed-in-tariff or export guarantee so in that case the advice is always to use your lower-value generated electricity yourself even if that means storing it in battery and just export the excess, if however you can export for more than you can buy then you do ideally want to turn OFF charging in daylight hours - even if thats the case now will it still be the case as the prices rise over the next few months? good luck anyway Pete
No, the address switches should be the same for each device in the same bank, there can be up to 8 batteries per bank. So mine are all just set as they arrived (default 0 I think) I seem to recollect that the orientation of the switch is different from the 2000 to the 2000C, it is mounted upside down on the 2000C, but all 4 in the off position.
I have 8 US2000B+ modules, maximum charge/discharge is 50 Amps, the C suffixed modules have a maximum constant charge/discharge of 35 Amps single module and 74 Amps multiple modules, i've queried Pylontech about the lower rate on the B suffixed modules but i've not had a reply.
Not sure where my reply vanished to. Anyway can't really say too much about this, the spec states 50A Max Charge/Discharge for the "C" But in both cases the recommended is 25 My inverter/battery combunation manages it at 25 automatically. For me, the priority is maximising the lifespan of the battery not the charge rate - because that is what maximises the return on investment. Of course the inverter can limit the charge/discharge as well as the batteries themselves.
@@MakeOrRepair Hi, I agree with you on charge/discharge amperage, I connected my modules to my laptop with the Servetec cable at the beginning of January and all 8 modules reported 100% SoH after 3.5 years and 3 MWh drawn from the modules. There a couple of useful FB groups that may interest you, Solar and Battery UK and Pylontech Owners.
@@jdrecords No sorry that isn't the case. My Inverter uses CANbus to talk to the batteries, not RS485 so the cable from the inverter goes in the top left socket labelled CAN, which is where it is plugged - perhaps not the clearest in that shot because the RJ45 plug is transparent. The second lower socket is for RS485 and the link cables next to them are for battery to - battery communication also using RS485. The pinout for both CANbus and RS485 sockets also changed between the US2000B and the US2000C although my cable should in theory work with both versions.
I shouuld have mentioned ballancing - I happened to be lucky in that they were about 50-60% charged that day (the new one is supplied 50% charged), however when the "experts" installed battery 2 they didn't bother and the controllers sorted themselves out mainly because they all discharged through the day. But yes as a matter of course I would try to ensure they were reasonably matched
Ballancing is needed when expanding the pack. The instructions from Pylontech are "When parallel different SOC/Voltages of modult together, please maintain the system in idle for >15 mins or until the LEDs become similare (
Follow-on Video now available dealing with FAQs that have arisen ua-cam.com/video/MLr_KUoSDfk/v-deo.html
Particularly that the US2000/2000B CAN Cable does not usually work with a US2000C, US3000C or US5000 battery.
🔸US2000B to US2000C/3000C/5000 CAN CABLE ADAPTER in stock on ebay - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234982424825 Unless demand increases this will be the last 20 I make, this was always to help people out, not to become a mini-business!
Thanks for your contribution! Had the same issue mixing US2000B and US2000C. which first did not work. Your vid and a contribution in the Victron forum "newest Firmware always to be master" helped me fixing.
Glad to be of help
Thank you for taking the time to post this very helpful video up.could you tell me where did you run the earth to .... was it the main earth point for the house or linked to the earth on the inverter to get back to the main house earth ponit ?
You want to minimise the number of hops between anything installed that is earthed and the main house earth point, however you also don't want any scope for a voltage differential with the inverter so... I had a big earth connection nearby that all the major earths are taken from including the inverter so I took it from that. If that is not feasible then I would say to earth it to an earth point on the inverter itself if it has one, or see where the inverter joins to earth - probably at the consumer unit earth distribution bus. Any electrictionas out there with a different view?
@@MakeOrRepair thanks for the considered reply. It’s a system in a workshop so a distance from the earth rods that provide the house earth. Unless anyone pops up with more suggestions ( thanks for yours) I think I’ll add another earth rod and connect it to that so it’s independent from the main house earth.
I noticed an extra positive and negative ports on the batteries. Could I hypothetically use them to connect EXTRA CABLES going to the inverter via a fuse . So im thinking it's like having a thicker cable, two for the positive and two for the negative . . Hope I've accurately described what I ment . Looking forward on some feedback ?
I think the pylontech cables are rated for up to 5 batteries per set joined as shown, but as usual check the spec, I think they are something like 35mm square. I would not use two smaller cables to try and make up the capacity - stick with the heavy duty proper cables. If you installed 5 batteries or more then I think you would indeed need to parallel up so you had two positive and two negative, taking from top and bottom so that there is no over-heating in the shorter link cables and ensuring you ballance the battery charge before installing. I would add the second long pair at the 5th Battery. You would never have to go beyond that because if I recall correctly there is a max of 8 batteries in a group after which you have to install controllers and stuff.
Just wondering - does the victron monitor and protect the pylontech batteries in terms of fault disconnection etc (e.g. overload). I'm presuming it will if its monitoring grid usage, so I'm just wondering if you you have a DC fuse between the inverter and the batteries?, or for that matter is there a MCCB where the AC side of the inverter connects to the grid, I'm guessing that would be higher than the rating of the inverter in terms of max fault Amps.
The inverter limits the current drawn from the batteries, but batteries are also internally managed. Isolator switch between batteries and inverter. There should always be some sort of mccb etc between the inverter and AC grid, I think itbis a prerequisite if you plan to export. Exact requirements will depend on the inverter and can be found in installation manuals.
I'm looking at something like this myself, what inverter / hybrid inverter do you use? What is the Max continuous output from the batteries alone?
I use a Sofar hybid, the HYD 3600, it has 2 channels for PV with 4KW max input but each of the 2 MPPT (1 on each of the 2 channels) tracks a max of 2.4WK for max efficiency so the 10x380W panel I use are split into 2 groups of 5 otherwise I would lose efficieny on the brightest days by sending 3.8kW to a 2.4Kw tracker. Assuming there is charge in the batteries it can also use batteires to run an emergency 1KW circuit in event of power failure. Regarding the current the US2000B/C it is 25A CONSTANT per battery at a nominal 48V which is 1.2KW per battery and at that rate the battery would discharge in less than 2 hours however it can handle much higher peaks for a few minutes (but never will because the inverter will get that from mains). The difference between the B and C is mainly discharge depth. 25A is also the optimal charge rate (for the bulk of the charge) so they take a minimum 2 hours to charge from flat. BUT it is the inverter that ultimately limits the amount of current provided for charge and depth of discharge and it should be programmed to maximise the life of the batteries; the HYD3600 recognises the pylontech batteries and is pre-programmed for the B model which means that when the batteries discharge to about 19% (firmware update might change this) it stops using them since an 80% cycle is optimal for life although the C can go to 95% that does not mean it is advisable. I don't have experience of other makes so I would not necessarily reccomend my inverter nor choice of battery but I would say that using an inverter that does explicitly support the model of battery is critical. All you can do is look at the data sheets carefully en.pylontech.com.cn/pro_detail.aspx?id=114&cid=23.
My strategy to maximise savings was to fit one battery along with the inverter but specifiy that I wanted to add more later, then I monitor actual usage data to see where and why I was still buying and exporting, when the battery was charging etc. and then decide if a battery would deal with those problems and if there were enough excess from the PVs to charge it (no point in having a battery if you can't charge it). I had to use my system without batteries when it was installed and would make pretty good savings but I was exporting a lot of what I produced (with little payment) and still buying quite a bit; the batteries reduce the amount I export by about 2kwh per battery per day and of course delay when I have to start buying in the evening. smooth out any cloudy times and high usage times when the panels don't produce a lot; as the cost of electricity rises the batteries become more cost effective, initial outlay was higher but using batteries in the uk was definately the right choice for me (I use a lot of electricity though). I did also switch to Octopus Agile Go because that sells me very low cost electricity at night which I can store int he batteries and use later, particularly handy between September and March.
7.2kW seems to be about optimal for me at the moment, but I might increase to 9.6 if electricity prices go up a lot, but it will partly depend on if Octopus keep offering the Agile Go scheme given the problem in the electircty market at the moment.
Hi, could I please ask where you obtained your 2000C battery commission cable ? I've had 2 of these units for 3 months and I'm having a ridiculous time sourcing the communication cable to the inverter. They were advertised as 2000's and I obviously assumed my current cable would be fine. They've also buggered about with the dip switch and the layout, this isn't an issue, but why? Anyway, my Goodwe 5048EM backup inverter is a CANbus connection, do you know what the RJ45 pinouts are at the battery end please? I've tried the ones on the manual but no joy! My 4 older 2000's have been running problem free for 4 years, love them, just wish they'd continued with them!😂
My cable came with inverter. I've looked at the 2000 and 2000C manual and am surprised the CAN pinout does differ slightly, in particular CAN ground has moved from pin 2 to pin 6 and pin 1-3 should be left unconnected.
en.pylontech.com.cn/download.aspx?id=165 is the manual for the 2000, pinout on page 13
atersa.shop/app/uploads/2021/03/US2000C-Product-Manual-V1.0-20CPSV0901-.pdf is for the 2000C, pinout on page 8
I've seen some listed on ebay but they are not exactly clear what connections they have
Anyway hope the pinout helps
I will soon (next few days) be listing a low cost adapter on ebay that enables the "B" cable to work with the "C" at lwast if it is a CAN cable. I'll also be putting up a video that shows how I made it. Hope that helps if you still need it.
You should in the first instance test old existing battery voltage , and the new Battery voltage. If they are different, you need to balance the batteries or they will memory charge individually. Basically, you disconnect the comms RJ45's then with the battery terminals in Parallel, not connected to your inverter, turn on all the batteries and they will balance under 2 hours and then go on standby. This way they will all charge evenly.
I meant to pin something about ballancing at the top of the comments. I did mention it in another coment. I've never gone to the lengths you suggest - simply install when the existing is about 50% during a charge period- which is what the new one is delivered at, the BMS should be capable of managing small differences. I've seen them installed fine without any regard but also heard some people have problems when not ballanced - who had to disconnect - ballance then reconnect - however I have not heard of a lasting "memory" effect in this type. I feel uncomfortable running without intrer battery management connected unless there is supervision - that was found to be the cause of the latest big battery fire! and these batteries can't be extinguished.
Could this be connected to a 200w panel with a cheap controller or would t it work?
Just wonder if it's more economical than those leisure batteries
Not 100% sure, the panel is largely irrelevant, it is the inverter/charger that matters, these are really meant to be managed using a compatible device - unless anyone knows different.
Hi, I have exact same configuration as yours, however I get an alarm on the older us2000.
If I take the comms cable from the second C model out of the link port 1 and into the RS485 it goes to normal. However I'm not sure the BMS is working?! Also when connecting to RS485, don't you have to fiddle with the dip switch settings? (The one C is master). Also your master black cable is off the older one, is that ok?
I tried using the newer us2000b as master instead of us2000c but it did not like it. So top to bottom I have newest 2000c, slightly older 2000c then the new 2000b. Regarding taking black and red from top or bottom, it does not matter since all the blacks are joined together, and so are all the reds. I have since relocated them and both come from the bottom. I'm not sure that connecting link2 to rs485 would allow it to operate as a slave, I would be tempted to try the stack in a different order. Regarding dip switches, they should all be the same, rembering that they are upside-down on the 2000c, can't remember which orientation on 2000b.
I have setup as you have, One of the new C as the master. Comms cable as yours, inverter cable into Can, leave top zero open then 1-0. Powers on seems ok, green lights then few seconds just the run light and then 10 mins later red light on master! Dip switches all to default. Puzzled!
@@kellisonline HArd to know what to suggest. Fisrt I think the address switches are oposite ways around on the 2000B and 2000C so make sure they are all set to the "off" side of the switch. Next pinout for the CAN is different between the 2000B and 2000C - Why - no idea! So if you had it working previously with just a 2000 or 2000B and are using the same cable then that might be the problem. See my earlier discussion with Paul Cahill.
For now I have disconnected the older 2000b - the 2 new C's appear to be in idle mode!? - the Run light flashes every 4 secs.
Inverter states battery at zero
@@kellisonline and are the unit charge lights also showing zero? zero sounds a bit concerning the bms should not let them go that low but perhaps that is how your inverter reports. Hope you start seeming charge reported as the day brightens, otherwise putting money on the cable. Just had a thought, you would need to check manual, but I think if you disconnect the inverter comms cable then the 3 batteries should talk to each other and balance their charge. I think I pinned a comment with a quote from the manual.if that works it is definitely the inverter comms cable.
Hello, can you tell me how wide the module is without the brackets?
Just measured them, in mm without either the mounting frames or rack mount breackets:
width 440, depth front to back 412 exclusing switches and connectors on front panel, height 90
with the brackets they fit a standard rack so far as I can see. There are only connectors on the fronUse philips #1 to remove brackets, first just trying to break paint that has gone under head, if the screw gets messed up (which is easy because they are quite soft metal) then use a 5-5.5mm bit (whatever size under 1/4 for the non-metric) to drill off the heads, then you get about 2mm of thread left sticking out that you can unscrew with pliers. Hope that helps. Mine don't seem to get very warm but I would always leave a little air space around them, if stacking then just a few small wooden blocks (or better rubber feet) to act as about 1/2 inch separator is enough
@@MakeOrRepair Thank you very much.
Thanks for the video. So did you mean you could have added a Us3000 as well, but then it should become the master? What about balancing the Us3000 with the remaining?
I have 3 us2000 and want to add another one but was thinking of getting a Us3000 as the extra. Will it work?
I have not tried it but I understand from several other people when I was researching that you can mix the 3000 and 2000 and that the new 3000 is used as master and can communicate to ensure appropriate balancing, again going for about 50% charge across all the batteries before connecting. I would suggest having a good search for manuals and datasheets for the 3000/2000s. BUT I have always found that £/Kw the 2000 to be slightly better value.
I have since added a us3000c and I did put it in as master. I waited for them to be 50% charged then added it to make balancing easier.
How far can I have the batteries from the inverter? I would like to have the batteries outside in a shed, but my mains in is at the other end of the house ... Is it better to run a long grid/mains cable, or a long battery cable?
First, the batteries should not be put un humid locations. distance can be fairly long, you gave to run the comms cable, which is CAN so there will a fairly long limit for that depending in speed, say 100m to be safe. But there are serious issues with the power cables. At only 50v dc but very high current you need very large cables itherwuse you get big voltage drop along the cable and waste energy. Also with say 50A current, they are lethal, and the longer the run the more opportunity for damage. so you would need something like steel conduit to house them, which in turn derates the cable. I can't remember the cable Size but price up something bigger than 25mm square. In summary although possible, not recommended.
Sorry, missed your last question. I think it will be cheaper and safer to run armoured mains cable, but the overall safety, convenience and cost probably involves other factors, your inverter us probably going to need a sensor on the cable that feeds mains into your house for example. You can hang batteries on the wall.
@@MakeOrRepair thanks for the quick reply. Maybe i'm worrying unnecessarily, as I have a basement below my consumer unit and the batteries could go directly below - I was just worried about fire risk.
@@timpala5841 pros and cons with each option. Most faults that could lead to fire are likely to happen just after installation, but are very rare given the bms also tries to prevent overheating. If you have suffient monitoring in the software then you can see a graph if battery temperature. I keep a gap between the batteries of about 1cm to help airflow. My batteries charging last night at 1kw each got to 33c
Do you think this Is installable by myself instead of paying the company to come and add a second one, I've only got one 2000C at present and got one on order? Thanks
I don't know how comfortable you are with electrical fittings, but I would say these are within the capability of most people, other than to connect the earth cable there are not even any screws involved, unless you plan to use the stackable brackets you don't need to take the brackets off. All the cables are provided and simply plug in. But do download the us2000c manual (I think you get one in the box but you can download and look in advance) and it has plenty of detail on connecting them. I think the connectors are designed pretty well it would be hard to accidentally get your fingers in contact with the conductors, but you will one red and one black socket not conected to anything so do put he little caps back on them (I notice little fingers in your photo). There is safety information in the manual but If after looking at the manual you feel concerned then get help (and it is sensible to have someone around just in case - not just for electrical risks, but they are heavy and if you work in a confined space there are other difficulties that can occur)
The general recomendation is to put the newest one as "master" since it will have the latest firmware, also to get your old one to about 50% charge before adding the second one (it comes 50% charged) so they are "balanced". You then make sure BOTH are switched off, and if there is a separate battery isolation switch between battery and inverter then turn that off too. Put the new one in place then do the cables . Use the provided short cables to connect them in parallel red-to red, black to black, if you choose to relacate the inverter cables to make it tidier then the cables have a little button to release them and are stiff to remove, you have to push on firmly until you feel a small click. The data cable from the inverter plugs into the CAN socket so you are just moving it from the old to new battery, then the short data cable connects link 1 (lower) socket on the master to the link 0 socket on the slave (older one). You can see how that works in the video and the manual shows it really well. Turn on both at the main switchs (then the inverter -battery isolation if there was one) then press the little round "start" button on the master - they should both start in sequence, if you do get a fault light (like I did) then turn them off, check the cables - if they are all okay then swap the master slave - but the manual and the video should help you. Most inverters should understand them just fine to charge and discharge using solar, but, if like me you use overnight charging (cheap electricity) then you might need to modify the charging times/rate on the inverter. HOpe that helps
@@MakeOrRepair Sorry one last question if you dont mind. if there is no isolation between the inverter and the battery do i need to turn off isolator?
Thanks again for your advice mate
@Andy Robinson Sent a response to your photo. Well you could essentially disconnect panels with the isolator shown in your photo and then isolate the inverter from the mains grid, which amounts to taking the inverter out of service, but I've never done so, But it is essential that all the batteries are switched off before doing anything! The only power cables you might come into contact with are the heavily insulated red/black heavy duty battery cables and with your setup I can't see a need to disturb them at all, just leave them plugged in as they are - that said it seems pointless disturbing the inverter. Plenty of room to link the new battery without disturbing them.
1.Turn of battaries,
2. put new battery behind/on top of old leaving a small gap for airflow,
3. Connect the short red/black cables + to +, - to - as shown in manual and at end of my video
4. put in the data link cable link1 (bottom) on new, to link 0 (top)on old
5. move the data cable coming from the inverter from the socket on the old battery to the same socket on the new.
6. Switch on both power toggle switches
7. Press the little red button on the new on (the master) for about 1 second and release and both batteries should com into servive one at a time.
Just be aware that the inverter should flag (and log) the failure of comms with the battery when you turn it off, so it is normal to see that alert in the logs (and I have no idea how you access the logs on your inverter mine just appears in the monitoring software for 30 days).
I'm also on Octopus Go, 15p/5p. It's very good for now, but I have a suspicion that they're going to take it off me at the end of my current contract.
I have 15kWh of US3000C which I fill to 80% in that golden 4 hour period.
Yes, mine ends in June, not looking forward to it, on positive note I stuck with octopus to sell excess although they paying slightly less than one I found, but they just increased the amount yhey pay
I’ve had these batteries 4 years and also on Go. My contract ran out last month and it’s now 7.5p per unit over night. I can’t actually remember the day rate but usually I don’t consume grid electricity during the day or at least not much.
Best thing I ever did was to buy these.
@@mollyfilms Well less frightened than I was thanks! That reminded me, I can check on the public Octopus API api.octopus.energy/v1/products/?brand=OCTOPUS_ENERGY&is_green=true For 1st April scheme, assuming they don't add another, it looks like mine is going to be about 29.8/7.5 and standing charge 26p/day. My export is about 4.1. so 50% night-time and 100% day-time increase. To get detailed information you need to find what region code covers you because prices vary over the UK. I too buy as little energy during the day as possible - although December was not great. I need to download the data and put my new prices against it, then I can see if a 4th battery woud make sense.
Do you have any CAN CABLE ADAPTER available.
I should have some listed early next week (first week in April) , I will update the pinned coments when they are in stock/
Now back in stock www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334819023225
Why do you focus on "right to left"? Why would it matter? Or does it?
Do you mean in the way I bend the cables - it does not really matter electrically so long as the batteries are connected in parallel. I find this layout reduces the stress on the cable plug and makes it easier to put on and take off if you need to, and keeps it nice and tidy.
@@MakeOrRepair Thank you.
Hi, thanks for sharing!
You could use these Pylontech modules instead of a generator set?
I could recharge them from the electricity grid at night and then use them instead of the diesel generator to give energy to the electric utwnsiles by day?
I suppose with the right type of inverter, but normal hybrid inverters would not work if the mains failed / disconnected from the mains. Mine for example will operate a 1KW emergency circuit if the mains is disconnected whereas with the mains present (and essentially doing nothing) it will happily deliver almost 3.7kW all from the batties - the limit of the inverter not the batteries. I think Pylontech and presumably several other firms do some other batteries actually designed for the job! It seems to me that generators have a certain ability to just keep going whereas with batteries once they have discharged... also I would have thought there would be a big cost disadvantage with batteries but I no nothing about using generators!
@@MakeOrRepair Thank you so much for the answer,
I have an idea to feed 3 fridge for at least 10 hours a day, they consume about 2kW stores and then constant about 300W.
Do you think 4 pyllontech can feed them for about 10 hours and with the off-grid inverter?
@@fabioyeah5051I'm not sure how much I can help you, we are going a fair way from using batteries as part of a solar installation - anwy I'll just give you my thoughts: If you are charging by night from grid, then with grid still on wanting to run them from battery then there are plenty of inverters that could do that, Options reduce if you want both on-grid and off-grid. I really suggest you get a few quotes from companies, even if you don't use them it will give you a far better feel for the available products and the issues that might arise. Anyway without solar input I'm not sure the saving on electicity is enough - using my current prices of 5p at night and 15p during the day, that is a single charge of 9kW approx giving a saving of just 90pence per day x365 = £328 per year so the payback time on 4 batteries + an inverter is perhaps as much as 15 years, by which time you might be worried about reliability and life expectancy of the inverter/batteries! Of course if the gap between nighttime costs and daytime costs grows then the payback period reduces. An of course if you are using large fridges with high value losses if they fail then there are other factors that I don't really take account of.
To the battery capacity - 300W per Fridge - I assume they are large then, I run 3 under counter fridges and my total usage is under 300W for them all. I'm not sure what the reference to "2KW stores" means. kW is just a measure at a moment in time, you need to know the KWh i.e. the power usage per hour because the fridge compressor presumably is not running 100% of the time; perhaps you meant 2kWh to get them started then 300Wh every hour after that? Anyway from the kWh you can simply multiply by 10 and you will need about 1.2 x that amount in battery capacity since your batteries will not fully discharge. As I said, pylontech or some other compny probably has a more approriate off the shelf solution for this. But if each Fridge used 300W fairly constantly then that is 300 watts per hour = 0.3kWh each, x10= 3KWh every 10 hours giving 9kwh used per 10 hours for 3 fridges. Now 4x2.4KWh batteries = 9.6kWh so it is marginal and would depend on the depth of discharge that the inverter allows, but while they might consume 300 Watts while running , are they consuming that all the time? But got to be honest, this sounds very expensive, as you are describing it you can only charge these batteries once a day, so roughly speaking that is just 9kW hours, adding solar pv into the mix would bring the cost up a small proportion but the payback time down a lot (once you decide to invest in an inverter then panels are the cheapest part - in the region of £120 per 350 watts peak)
I have a sofar inverter can you tell me haw to change the charge program
You do it from inverter front panel-It takes a bit to get used to, I'll look up the page in the manual tomorrow then should be able to explain, not sure of your inverter model but will explain for mine, hopefully yours won't differ much
@@MakeOrRepair hi my inverter is Sofar ME3000SP
@@chrishucker9339 This looks similar to my hybrid although the menus differ slightly. Its a bit awkward because there are only 4 buttons. I got your manual here midsummerwholesale.co.uk/pdfs/sofar-me3000sp-manual-v1-5.pdf The program I use is a "time of use" program which essentially switches the batteries to charge from mains supply for a specific period overnight when I have cheap electricity, I think it is easiest but you might think about "timing mode". Outside that time the batteries just operate on auto. I alter the times slightly for winter (when I need to have fully charged batteries to start the day) and Summer when they just need a bit of a top-up to keep me going till about 8ish when the panels kick in.
1. Buttons are described in section 5.1 on page 19.
2. So having figured out the buttons you press "Back" to get the menu
3. PAGE 25 now use the up/down enter to pick option 1 - settings
3. Now pick option 12 WORK MODE SET (DO NOT PICK BATTERY PARAMETER)
PAGE 31 describes AUTO WORK MODE,
Page 32 Describes TIME OF USE
Page 33 descrives Timing mode
SO assuming you are going to use TIme of use use the arrows, pick it and then you just use "enter" to step through each digit on the screen and the up/down to change the value, when it loops back to the top just press "Back" button repeatedly untiil you get back to the main screen
Not the easiest thing to explain
If you get something wrong with the timingthen just go back though and change it or pick AUTO work mode to get back to normal
This is the best I can really do so hope that helps
@@MakeOrRepair Thanks I will have a good look through the manual and make sure I know what I’m doing first. My concern is I don’t have a cheaper charge time but I have a good feedin tariff, and I don’t won’t to charge the battery at the cost of losing the feedin tariff if that makes sense. I find that it charges to 80% from the grid at night but then the solar has to ring it up to 90 + which could take us to 11 am this could be going back to the grid at the higher price.
Thanks for your help Chris
@@chrishucker9339 Well normally the amount you pay to buy electricity exceeds the price you get from the feed-in-tariff or export guarantee so in that case the advice is always to use your lower-value generated electricity yourself even if that means storing it in battery and just export the excess, if however you can export for more than you can buy then you do ideally want to turn OFF charging in daylight hours - even if thats the case now will it still be the case as the prices rise over the next few months? good luck anyway
Pete
Did you change the dip switches on each unit?
No, the address switches should be the same for each device in the same bank, there can be up to 8 batteries per bank. So mine are all just set as they arrived (default 0 I think) I seem to recollect that the orientation of the switch is different from the 2000 to the 2000C, it is mounted upside down on the 2000C, but all 4 in the off position.
@@MakeOrRepair Thanks very much for the help. Looking forward to it arriving and connecting them together.
I have 8 US2000B+ modules, maximum charge/discharge is 50 Amps, the C suffixed modules have a maximum constant charge/discharge of 35 Amps single module and 74 Amps multiple modules, i've queried Pylontech about the lower rate on the B suffixed modules but i've not had a reply.
Not sure where my reply vanished to. Anyway can't really say too much about this, the spec states 50A Max Charge/Discharge for the "C" But in both cases the recommended is 25 My inverter/battery combunation manages it at 25 automatically. For me, the priority is maximising the lifespan of the battery not the charge rate - because that is what maximises the return on investment. Of course the inverter can limit the charge/discharge as well as the batteries themselves.
A 3600W Inverter will only charge/discharge a maximum of 74 amps at the nominal 48V of the battery.
Pete
@@MakeOrRepair Hi, I agree with you on charge/discharge amperage, I connected my modules to my laptop with the Servetec cable at the beginning of January and all 8 modules reported 100% SoH after 3.5 years and 3 MWh drawn from the modules. There a couple of useful FB groups that may interest you, Solar and Battery UK and Pylontech Owners.
Thanks I'll look at the groups
You put the black cable in the wrong place on the new one to Start, you should have stated your mistake in the video.
I don't see it, I had the link cable inserted ready to go and I put the CANbus cable in the right hole - what time code?
@@MakeOrRepair 8.52 the black should have been in the second plug that is why it would not work
@@jdrecords No sorry that isn't the case. My Inverter uses CANbus to talk to the batteries, not RS485 so the cable from the inverter goes in the top left socket labelled CAN, which is where it is plugged - perhaps not the clearest in that shot because the RJ45 plug is transparent. The second lower socket is for RS485 and the link cables next to them are for battery to - battery communication also using RS485. The pinout for both CANbus and RS485 sockets also changed between the US2000B and the US2000C although my cable should in theory work with both versions.
Should you not have balanced the 3 together before commissioning?
I shouuld have mentioned ballancing - I happened to be lucky in that they were about 50-60% charged that day (the new one is supplied 50% charged), however when the "experts" installed battery 2 they didn't bother and the controllers sorted themselves out mainly because they all discharged through the day. But yes as a matter of course I would try to ensure they were reasonably matched
Long delays getting batteries at the moment