Just to inform people not to scrutinize but at 7:20 in the video you assumed all lifters were good just because all rockers were tight. Not always the case. If the cam is all the way up, then you could still have a collapsed lifter. You have to spin the engine and check each one. No bs for people that read this. It happened to me. I thought I had the wrong side torn down until I spun the engine and the foul beast showed his ugly head
I’m doing the same to mine for the second time so I’m replacing the vlom/valley pan assembly I would recommend replacing it it the first time you have to do lifters if your not doing the dod delete
I tried using the 5/16 to remove the cover, worked on all but the last one. Ended up using a 8mm I had, I tried 3 different 8mm for the best fit possible as the 5/16 rounded the bolt a bit. THE 8MM I USED FIT MUCH TIGHTER THAN MY 5/16. Most of my tools are cheaper, maybe just not as good of tool. Only have one 5/16
Thanks for these videos! Where can I find the head bolt install order and torque specs for each on a 2012 Chevy 5.3 with this AFM DOD engine. I need to do a failed lifter replacement and that’s my main hold up. I want to make sure I get it right. Thanks!
Did the delete in my 2009 chevrolet silverado 1500. came off the interstate one day and the afm system burnt oil on my high rpm driving on the interstate for about 3 hours without me knowing. came off the interstate cylinders reactivated and with no oil in there it really messed up my engine. had to rebuild so i figured reprogram the computer and take that afm out.
Have an important question on a 2007 Chevy suburban how big of a job is doing the lifters if it isn’t that big of a job I would like to do it myself I’ve worked on everything else on my vehicle I just never done anything to a motor yet?? Please help me out
I got a 07 yukon 5.3 everything looks good slight tick and miss but burning oil like crazy. I put drivers side valve cover. But would lifters make it smoke
The AFM system is known to contribute to oil consumption. The valve cover helps but you can try turning AFM off too. Either a tuner or Range deactivator.
2018 5.3 with 45k z71, oil change every 5k, ticking noise coming from #2 cylinder right at 2400 to 3200 rpms under light load. pulled valve cover, inspected push rods valve springs and rockers and they are in perfect condition. AFM has been disabled since 500 miles (brand new). I don't know what's the problem. no engine codes. wot pulls sound and feel perfect. not sure what I should try next
Always recommended, but not necessary for this repair. If it were a blown head gasket or if the engine had overheated then definitely get them checked.
I have a 2021 Sierra with the 6.2. Had a collapsed lifter and bent rod with less than 10k miles on it. It's been fixed but my question is should I cut my losses now? Is it likely to give me more issues?
Good afternoon sir I have a question I have the same problem but what are the Sequence number to tighten all the bolts from inside the cylinder head. Please get back to me
So can this be a problem for the oil pressure in a 2013 suburban with a 5.3? I can drive short distances but longer distances causes the oil pressure bells and whistles to go off.
So I pulled the head on the even side and replaced the lifters #6 exhaust being the original problem. Zip everything back up and I have a knock and a metal on metal noise coming from the passenger side. I have no idea what to look for or check out on the motor .it's a 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3.
Just bought a 08 Tahoe. Love the whip, hate the clicking sound that's intermittent. 2 questions for you: 1. Could the sound be anything but the lifters? 2. I'm a handyman by trade, been working with tools since I was a toddler but never have done any work on an engine. Following the template here, would you recommend I give it a shot? I dont have the money to get it done by a pro by the way. And #3 What type of serious damage can this problem turn into if not taken care of in a timely manner? Can it wait a while? Thanks in advance. Liked and subbed.
The click is the rocker arms tapping when the lifter is collapsed. You can have a bad lifter that gets stuck in the top position that doesn't make any noise. If you are getting a misfire code on your automobile then you can quickly check for spark, fuel, and compression if you have the appropriate tools... If you let the issue go unaddressed you could dage your catalytic converter by sending unfired fuel through the exhaust valve. This issue also messes with your ECM and causes the vehicle to run rough.
8:34 you say it’s just the inner Cylinders, what does it mean if you have a bad lifter on an outside cylinder? Today I starting taking apart everything to fix a bad lifter on my 09 5.3 v8 Chevy Silverado. I’m following your video but when I got to this part the rocker arm thingy that moves a lot if on the drivers side on the cylinder closest to the firewall or closest a to where the driver is. Driver side, farthest from the front. Does this mean anything? This will be the third time the lifters have gone bad I’m wondering if I should just put another engine in it cause I saw somewhere that the camshaft lobes might go bad and if I have to replace that myself that’s going to be a lot of work I’m not a mechanic but to me it seems if I have to take the cam shaft out that’s almost to the point where you’ve taken the whole engine apart only the block is left with the crack shaft and cylinders lol
I believe I misspoke in this. You are correct, on the drivers side it’s number 1 (furthest forward) and number 7 (furthest back). On passenger side they are the middles.
As a guy who does this for a living, I find it hilarious that you claim to be “familiar with these” and then proceed to work like you’ve never touched a wrench in your life 😂
My lifter slide won't come out?? I took out the 10mm bolt and tried pulling it out but the dod side isn't wanting to release... any suggestions please??
@@TheDieseldog yes I got them. Thank you! Although they weren't collapsed and lope on cam looks fine.. I'm hoping there is still something wrong with the lifters and the new ones fix the problem.
The coolants runs through passages through the head. Need to drain it before pulling it all apart to decrease the amount of coolant mess and amount that runs into the crankcase.
How in the heck did you get the bottom head bolts out with out removing the manifold? I had to walk away last night cause I was getting mad. Did u use a socket or wrench?
Once the manifold is loose from the head you can push it over enough to get to the head bolts. Or you can just pull the manifold out completely. But that’s what I do to save time.
I would vote to delete them. Mine failed at 200k and is on the 4 set before 205k. The aftermarket junk does not work after two brands I will be getting rid of the 2008 Tahoe.
I got my passenger side covers off. On idle, the lifters act fine. Climb to about 1.5k to 2.5krpms and a lifter in cylinder 4 gets stuck in the UP position. Any help??
Seems like the lifter is collapsed just like this guys, I’m doing one right now and same thing on mine the pushrod to the rocker arm is not contacting properly. It has a lot of play and is sitting lower than others, Mine is cylinder 4 as well and so are a lot of the ones that I’ve seen
Best. Collapsed. Lifter. Video. Period.
Very informative and clear on how to do this job, much appreciated!
I can't believe this video has so few views. Best one I've watched
Appreciate that
Definitely agree
"Got it. Dropped it." Mechanic life summed up.
This is one of the greatest videos on this subject thank you for this.
Just to inform people not to scrutinize but at 7:20 in the video you assumed all lifters were good just because all rockers were tight. Not always the case. If the cam is all the way up, then you could still have a collapsed lifter. You have to spin the engine and check each one. No bs for people that read this. It happened to me. I thought I had the wrong side torn down until I spun the engine and the foul beast showed his ugly head
I’m doing the same to mine for the second time so I’m replacing the vlom/valley pan assembly I would recommend replacing it it the first time you have to do lifters if your not doing the dod delete
I looked into doing the afm - dod delete. For some reason the wife wants to keep the AFM .
Great video, brother... thanks for the extra work posting it!
Excelente bello trabajo sigue adelante exitos y bendiciones 🎉❤
Excellent work sir! ! Hats off to ya!
Thank you bud. This was an awesome tutorial
I notice the WorkForIt hat. I'm sure @DMAXRYNO would enjoy your content!
Repping the work for it movement
Awesome video very helpful
My 2004 BMW is more reliable than my '07 Silverado. Thanks for the video.
Nice camera action son! 🤟
I tried using the 5/16 to remove the cover, worked on all but the last one. Ended up using a 8mm I had, I tried 3 different 8mm for the best fit possible as the 5/16 rounded the bolt a bit. THE 8MM I USED FIT MUCH TIGHTER THAN MY 5/16. Most of my tools are cheaper, maybe just not as good of tool. Only have one 5/16
Use metric tools
Is putting rocker and push rod back in same hole absolutely necessary? Doing this to my 08 gmc sierra. What happens if you mix them up?
Also did the same thing, curious of answer
Very good video boss!
Thanks for these videos! Where can I find the head bolt install order and torque specs for each on a 2012 Chevy 5.3 with this AFM DOD engine. I need to do a failed lifter replacement and that’s my main hold up. I want to make sure I get it right. Thanks!
nice job man, the owner dont want to put a non dod cam while your right there, seems like the wise choice, would it be that much more work
Did the delete in my 2009 chevrolet silverado 1500. came off the interstate one day and the afm system burnt oil on my high rpm driving on the interstate for about 3 hours without me knowing. came off the interstate cylinders reactivated and with no oil in there it really messed up my engine. had to rebuild so i figured reprogram the computer and take that afm out.
Have an important question on a 2007 Chevy suburban how big of a job is doing the lifters if it isn’t that big of a job I would like to do it myself I’ve worked on everything else on my vehicle I just never done anything to a motor yet?? Please help me out
What is a job like this cost start to finish
I appreciate you for the video my question is if am only replacing the collapse lifers i don’t have to worry about cams etc.
I’d at least pull all lifters and check cams/rollers while you’re there.
There are 100 different companies selling these kits which brand kit do you suggest we buy that will last ?
Bro this the video is great!! Is draining coolant is a must? And why? I really don't want to make a mess 😣
The coolant runs through the heads.
I got a 07 yukon 5.3 everything looks good slight tick and miss but burning oil like crazy. I put drivers side valve cover. But would lifters make it smoke
The AFM system is known to contribute to oil consumption. The valve cover helps but you can try turning AFM off too. Either a tuner or Range deactivator.
2018 5.3 with 45k z71, oil change every 5k, ticking noise coming from #2 cylinder right at 2400 to 3200 rpms under light load. pulled valve cover, inspected push rods valve springs and rockers and they are in perfect condition. AFM has been disabled since 500 miles (brand new). I don't know what's the problem. no engine codes. wot pulls sound and feel perfect. not sure what I should try next
Could be cam lobe/ lifter roller on its way out.
Is it necessary to machine the head, did
you have it done for this repair?
Always recommended, but not necessary for this repair. If it were a blown head gasket or if the engine had overheated then definitely get them checked.
I have a 2021 Sierra with the 6.2. Had a collapsed lifter and bent rod with less than 10k miles on it. It's been fixed but my question is should I cut my losses now? Is it likely to give me more issues?
I’m confused I recently changed cylinder one both lifters and went bad again what do you think to be the issue same cylinder which is cylinder one
Good afternoon sir I have a question I have the same problem but what are the Sequence number to tighten all the bolts from inside the cylinder head. Please get back to me
Can i replace the only 1 side of the engine ?
You have a good job.
SHES LOOKIN REAL GOOD HOSS
Do you need to slap on a new gasket off the cover if your just examining it?
Forgot where the little bracket with a forked end goes, any chance I can get a little help
Hiw long does it take for the ACM lifters to begin working ? I have put everything back together and 3 lifters are not working
So can this be a problem for the oil pressure in a 2013 suburban with a 5.3? I can drive short distances but longer distances causes the oil pressure bells and whistles to go off.
Great video man!
Also, I notice you're using a hand ratchet. Can I use a battery impact for dissasembly?
Have you done the delete on yours yet? How did it go? Price?
So I pulled the head on the even side and replaced the lifters #6 exhaust being the original problem. Zip everything back up and I have a knock and a metal on metal noise coming from the passenger side. I have no idea what to look for or check out on the motor .it's a 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3.
Pull the valve cover back off and recheck your work. Did you make sure the lifters were lined up in the guides correctly?
@@TheDieseldog did everything by the book
Three lifters are not working, but when I hand cranked the engine to torque the rocker arms they were working
@@paullahocki2539 where did you buy the lifters from?
@@TheDieseldog carparts.com
My 2020 trail boss at 2400 miles is having one replaced! So damn mad!
did you find the 10 mm
So how do you get them out of the plastic sleeve
Pull the bolt out of the sleeve and pull them out together. Then pull the lifter out from the bottom of the sleeve.
@TheDieseldog Thanks I figured it out. I felt like I was going to break the sleeve
Just bought a 08 Tahoe. Love the whip, hate the clicking sound that's intermittent. 2 questions for you: 1. Could the sound be anything but the lifters? 2. I'm a handyman by trade, been working with tools since I was a toddler but never have done any work on an engine. Following the template here, would you recommend I give it a shot? I dont have the money to get it done by a pro by the way. And #3 What type of serious damage can this problem turn into if not taken care of in a timely manner? Can it wait a while? Thanks in advance. Liked and subbed.
Where is the answer to all your questions 🙄
The click is the rocker arms tapping when the lifter is collapsed. You can have a bad lifter that gets stuck in the top position that doesn't make any noise. If you are getting a misfire code on your automobile then you can quickly check for spark, fuel, and compression if you have the appropriate tools... If you let the issue go unaddressed you could dage your catalytic converter by sending unfired fuel through the exhaust valve. This issue also messes with your ECM and causes the vehicle to run rough.
What fluids do I have to drain to do this job? If any?
8:34 you say it’s just the inner Cylinders, what does it mean if you have a bad lifter on an outside cylinder? Today I starting taking apart everything to fix a bad lifter on my 09 5.3 v8 Chevy Silverado. I’m following your video but when I got to this part the rocker arm thingy that moves a lot if on the drivers side on the cylinder closest to the firewall or closest a to where the driver is. Driver side, farthest from the front. Does this mean anything? This will be the third time the lifters have gone bad I’m wondering if I should just put another engine in it cause I saw somewhere that the camshaft lobes might go bad and if I have to replace that myself that’s going to be a lot of work I’m not a mechanic but to me it seems if I have to take the cam shaft out that’s almost to the point where you’ve taken the whole engine apart only the block is left with the crack shaft and cylinders lol
I believe I misspoke in this. You are correct, on the drivers side it’s number 1 (furthest forward) and number 7 (furthest back). On passenger side they are the middles.
@@TheDieseldog thank god I was worried there was something else going wrong
As a guy who does this for a living, I find it hilarious that you claim to be “familiar with these” and then proceed to work like you’ve never touched a wrench in your life 😂
Where did you bought the lifter kit??
I would only buy lifters from GM
@@TheDieseldog thank you
My lifter slide won't come out?? I took out the 10mm bolt and tried pulling it out but the dod side isn't wanting to release... any suggestions please??
Not much I can suggest other than just keep trying to work it out, going back and forth. Should come out. I’ve never had trouble.
@@TheDieseldog yes I got them. Thank you! Although they weren't collapsed and lope on cam looks fine.. I'm hoping there is still something wrong with the lifters and the new ones fix the problem.
What do you normally charge to do this job? I got asked to do this on a truck but didnt know what a good price/charge I should do it for.
I wouldn’t do it for less than 300. Should have charged more for this one though haha
Why are you draining the coolant?
The coolants runs through passages through the head. Need to drain it before pulling it all apart to decrease the amount of coolant mess and amount that runs into the crankcase.
@@TheDieseldog I figured as much. But since I’m only doing the drivers side I didn’t see a reason to. Thanks
How in the heck did you get the bottom head bolts out with out removing the manifold? I had to walk away last night cause I was getting mad. Did u use a socket or wrench?
Once the manifold is loose from the head you can push it over enough to get to the head bolts. Or you can just pull the manifold out completely. But that’s what I do to save time.
@@TheDieseldog I'll give it another shot tonight. I really don't wanna pull the whole thing off. Cause that seems to be more of a pain. Thanks.
Why did you take all the assesories out
GM kept making this problem and so they released a service bulletin for the 5.3 V8 from 2014-2019
Yeah it’s a terrible design
I'd get started on mine, but I can't find my 10mm socket 😐
You’ll have that on them big jobs
Did water get into your head?!?
So can’t u just take of one of the heads?
Yes
Wish u was in Alabama
I would vote to delete them. Mine failed at 200k and is on the 4 set before 205k. The aftermarket junk does not work after two brands I will be getting rid of the 2008 Tahoe.
Another 5.3 Liter GMC hand grenade.
Good ole cylinder 7 low compression for me lol
Why not show how you moved over the exhaust on the left that's the real hassle
Hi
I got my passenger side covers off. On idle, the lifters act fine. Climb to about 1.5k to 2.5krpms and a lifter in cylinder 4 gets stuck in the UP position. Any help??
Seems like the lifter is collapsed just like this guys, I’m doing one right now and same thing on mine the pushrod to the rocker arm is not contacting properly. It has a lot of play and is sitting lower than others, Mine is cylinder 4 as well and so are a lot of the ones that I’ve seen