How To Make Beaded Face Frames
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Beaded face frames can really add an sophisticated element to your cabinetry and furniture. I reserve this for my highest grade jobs. Please watch this video on how I make them and let men know if you have any questions. As always, I really appreciate you watching and please give it a Thumbs Up and Subscribe to my channel. Please leave comments as I love positive interaction with my viewers.
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Man, you make me feel soooooo much better about my OCD! Thanks for posting. You’re an amazing Craftsman! Subbed.
Thank you very much for the sub and also for checking out the video. I hope you like others as well. I guess it’s just taking pride in my work mixed in with a little ocd. Lol. Thanks again.
I've definitely used the same scoring pass. Something about the profile makes it prone to awful tearout-"chunk out," more like-on the corner at the edge of the quirk. That's not to mention the tearout at the miter notches, which I also cut first, before running the bead.
Thanks for taking the time to do these.
You’re welcome Kevin. I hope they help you.
Yes! Missed your videos! Glad to see you and Richard from finish carpentry tv follow each other lol awesome
Thanks alex. I’m glad you tuned in and watched. Thanks. Judging by the amount of subscribers he has, I doubt he noticed my comments on his channel. He’s a great UA-cam personality. I’m just glad that you guys are here on my channel also. It’s awesome. And thank you very much for commenting. One day I’d love to have 500k subs. That must be amazing for him.
Hi David, I haven’t commented in some time but I have been watching! I was not aware of this Kreg system, but I will be buying one the next time I do beaded face frames! Thank you for the continued high quality content!
I’m so glad you commented on this video. I didn’t get very many. And I really hope you enjoy the tool when you get one. They are great. I also want to say thanks for the really nice comment. Have a great day.
Subbed, thanks for posting. Before getting the Kreg system did you ever consider a face frame notcher?
Hey thank you. Yes I considered it as I did every job with this detail. But they are very expensive and honestly I felt like they take up a lot of room too. But if I had a lot of extra room and money, I’d probably have gotten one. The thing is though, nowadays I hardly ever do this detail on jobs. Strange how trends change.
I've had my fill of Kreg pocket holes. Go w/ a Castle Pocket Hole machine. Much better!
Do those not shift as much? I’ve seen so many used lately I actually considered buying one. I just love the foreman. It’s so easy and it sits nicely in my bench.
Sold my Kreg Foreman for close to what I paid for it. I replaced it with a Castle Pocket machine. After using the castle I could never imagine going back. I can hold a joint with my thumb and experience no shift. It's a night and day difference. Another benefit is they cut much faster.
That’s pretty cool. I’ll have to consider it. I don’t use my pocket machine on cabinets like so many out there. So it’s not a ton of use but any shift can be annoying. By the way, did you like the video? Do you make beaded face frames?
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore the video was great. I was very interested in your jig for the haunch cut. Have thought of buying a Hoffman haunches from an auction but the Kreg setup looks fairly easy and I am sure much more affordable. Right now cutting and mitred beads.
@@jamesmoore1532 thank you. You know I was going to buy a Hoffman machine to do it but it took up too much space and it wasn’t really that great for stops on long pieces. I prefer my setup much more. But for massive production, you can’t beat the Hoffman. This setup is very reasonable in cost but does have some leaning to it. I really like beaded cabinets but don’t do them too often anymore. I’m sure when I build my own kitchen, I’ll be doing it. Everything else I’ve built for my own home has it so it will match. Plus my wife loves it. Glad to have you on my channel. Thanks a lot.
For some reason when I use the Kreg notching jig on the end of a piece for a corner, I take my first pass, then move the stop, and the second pass creates a very slight ridge which shows up when I’m fitting the pieces together. The first few I did didn’t have this, but now I can’t seem to get rid of it.
Let me start by saying thank you for watching this video and commenting. I also can have this problem and it seems to have to do with the amount of pressure I put down over the bit. Also the board has to be very flat and preferably not warped at all. In fact when I build these face frames, I don’t use any board that isn’t flat. No twist or bend. It just makes the process very much more difficult to get great results. I use a sweeping pass on the Final Cut so to remove all uneven areas and produce a perfectly smooth surface. This is a great system but it needs patience.
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore Very helpful, thanks!!
Do you always use 1" screws when assembling face frames?
I am more and more. I didn’t used to a long time ago but I noticed they shift a lot less than 1 1/4 screws and hold really well so it’s a win-win. Thank you for watching. And leaving a comment.
Not sure how much work you do to justify buying a Castle pocket hole machine but that will take care of the problem of your wood walking away or shifting. I got lucky and was able to purchase one for a $150 but had to stick a bunch of money into it but still got it running for under a grand. I just could not stand Kreg pocket holes when I was used to using a Castle at my old job.
could you tell me what size of bead bit you used?
Hey thanks for watching. I hope you enjoyed the video. 1/4” typically is what I use.
No gloves softie.
I see that you are burning your notches. Glue does not stick to burned wood.
Ken it isn’t any worry to have a little burning on the pieces. Certainly nothing that is going to prevent a good connection here. Any burning that is achieved here is so little anyways. It’s more important to slow your feed rate to get a better cut than worry about burning.