Great video. You said it all without saying a word. Don't have a 335 in the collection yet but I plan on trying to find one. The dowel rod trick on the collar was impressive. Hadn't seen that one yet. I will have to remember it. What mantle did you use and will it run on a standard #21? Once again great video. Thanks for sharing and God bless.
Thanks for the video. I just scored my first 335 (my birthday lantern) and it’s a bit different than the American made lanterns I’m used to. You gave me enough info to get it rebuilt and ready to go!
Bill, good afternoon. I wanted to ask you if the coleman mantle #11 is compatible with a 236 coleman canadian white gas lantern. I've heard that they are used more for a kerosene 500 cp lantern and I wondered what your thoughts and your experience is with this particular mantle. Thank you
Bill, Good afternoon . I have a 202 professional, I have a 635 silver coleman lantern, I love the Canadian model lanterns and as of this week, I may be able to purchase a 335 . I'm curious to know what your personal thought are in regards to this particular model ?
Good afternoon, I'm kinda new to the Lantern world, but I do have multiple coleman stoves . It would really be helpful to know what Lantern operates better . The 635, or the 335 nickel plated tank w/ the green vent ? Thank you.
They are equally reliable. The only functional difference between the two is the brightness and the rate of fuel consumption. The 335 will put out 300-350cp and the 635 500cp.
Good video! A heads up for anyone cleaning up these old Coleman products, don't use Spray 9 to clean up the outside. It works great, but it takes the ink right off of the labels in one swipe. Learned this cleaning up an old 421-D stove. Labels were perfect, until I wiped it down with Spray 9, Doh!
Indeed. A lot of strong degreasers will strip the colour from decals, usually in seconds. Dish soap is always a safe first option if you're unsure. I use Simple Green a lot, but even that will damage decals and leave streaks in some paint if left on too long at full strength.
My 335 will pump and hold pressure but won't light. There's enough air coming out that the match extinguishes but there's no fuel with that air to light. I find it odd that air comes out of the tank but doesn't send fuel with it. I can't smell fuel with that either. Any ideas? I'm trying to figure out what parts to order, or does it just need to be cleaned? Thanks
The most likely problem is a clogged fuel and air tube. If you fill the fount full, pump it up, open the valve, then slosh it around that will slosh gas into the air intake at the top of the fuel and air tube. Normally you don't want fuel in there, but if you test it this way and hear the sputter of fuel and/or it lights, then you know that the orifice at the bottom of the fuel and air tube is clogged. At that point, pull the valve, remove the f/a tube, and give it a good cleaning.
I'm in the process of rebuilding a 335 "birthday" lantern and the paint on the fount is in amazing shape but the decal is very faded. I want to remove it without damaging the paint but based on others I've tried to remove this won't be easy. I cannot find a solvent that will soften the adhesive without dissolving the paint and heat doesn't help either (makes sense). It doesn't seem to be affected by any petroleum based solvents either. Any ideas?
I can pretty well guarantee that removing the decal will damage the paint. The glue is old and the paint from the time period wasn't great, so any attempt to just peel off the decal will likely take the paint off. I've tried on a number of occasions, but have never had any luck removing vinyl decals without damaging the paint.
Are you in Canada? I'm wondering where to get parts for a reasonable price that doesn't include shiping fees greater than the value of the parts. I'm looking for a generator, valve wheel, and a cap gasket
If you're in any of the Coleman groups on Facebook, look-up Agostino Del Coro. He sells viton cap gasket, thirty for $10. Other than that, you can try Vulcan Lantern Works. Some people don't like the guy, but I've never had any problems with him.
I’ve just recently discovered these gems. I have not seen any of these in the USA but do see them on the online auction sites now. After acquiring my first one, I was surprised that they are roughly the same size as the 200a. Thank you for this in-depth video on rebuilding one. I always enjoy your channel.
My USA Coleman 288 lantern is difficult to light. It holds pressure (good check valve). It does not have a generator needle so what could be the problem? I make sure it has at least 90% volume of gas?
It should have a cleaning needle. If that needle is broken/missing, you won't be able to clear the gas tip on the generator. A clogged gas tip could be your problem, but to be clearer I'd need to know specifically what you mean by "difficult to light". Is the flow of fuel unreliable? Is it flooding? Is it losing pressure? Is it flaring?
@@king.coleman I believe it has the plastic piece where the fuel I let goes. Should I purchase a new one? Upon lighting, the mantles don't even glow. I can hear vapors flow when I turn the ignition on. Pressure holds.
I don't understand your first sentence. Are you hearing fuel or air? If all you hear is a hissing sound, that's just air. You want to hear a hiss with a bit of a gurgle or sputter to it. That means you're getting fuel. If there's no fuel, the fuel and air tube (plastic on that model) could be clogged or the generator tip could be clogged (and if your cleaning needle is broken/missing you wont' be able to clear it). If it's lighting and not settling down, you may have a blockage in the air tube. Insects and spiders love to crawl into the air tube, manifold, or burner tubes to build nests that will obstruct the flow of air.
Schrader valves can fail, although my experience is that failure results in the valve no longer sealing. It could be clogged. I'd remove the valve from the fount and inspect the pick-up assembly and schrader valve. Old Coleman Parts should have new pick-up assemblies for sale and a new one will include a new schrader valve.
It depends on what parts you're looking for. Your best bet in the States is oldcolemanparts.com, but if you're here in Canada you might check with vulcanlanternworks.com.
@@king.coleman ok, i am about to buy a red fount dated 1/76 to repair a 335 1970 so what model could be a red 1/76? If the seller listed the correct year ofc. The fount have a fuel cap with a screw.
Toronto didn't make any red founts in 1976. The last red founts were for the 335 and 200 in 1970. Three-piece fuel caps were phased out by Toronto in the mid- to late-60s. The only red fount I can think of from 1976 would be an American 200A fount, which would have a single-piece fuel cap.
@@king.coleman Thankyou for the infos. The fount is made in canada,i can see on a picture but i think the seller misread the date,maybe was difficult to read so with a 3 pieces fuel cap, maybe its a fount for a model 200 dated 66. I am not a coleman collector at all so my guess can be all wrong. Anyways thankyou for answering and i really like yours videos!
i have one dated 71 also i could not find globes for mind i got a screen globe from woods canadian tire today i found glass globes made by woods at canadian tire this was my dads lantren there very bright i go camping once a year in the fall i like this lantren
The Woods globes are fine. The original globes were No. 4. If you find a place that sells Coleman replacement parts-I often find Home Hardware is a good place to look-they'll usually have Coleman globes that will fit. This globe size was used on the 335 and 321 series and on most of the later models imported from the US for sale in Canada. I believe the current part number is 288XXXX. A cheaper option is to find a used propane lantern, as almost all of them use this size globe and can often be found for less than the cost of a new globe.
Thanks Bill . The next time I run the Lantern, I won't use the cleaning needle , but what would be a safe procedure to shut it down if it's being stubborn, obviously I'll use the cleaning needle but it may flare up and although it may not at operating at full capacity, I've experienced some difficulties. It's why I at this point in practice and getting familiar with it, I only fill w/ fuel at a low level
If it won't shut off fully and the cleaning needle works to kill the last remnants of a stubborn flame, do what you need to do. But you need to figure out why it isn't shutting off completely. It can take a couple of minutes to burn out all the way, but if it's still going after 2-3 minutes, you need to deal with that leaky valve.
Thanks Bill . By the way, I also noticed that after I put in 20 to 25 pumps and turn the valve only just an 8th of a turn I immediately hear the spitting sound . Is this any cause for concern. As always, thanks for your help
@@wadeosceola6738 That's normal. Watch my theory of operation video for the Instant-Lite lanterns. The spring-loaded air wire that limits fuel flow to prevent flooding is held in that position by the valve stem. A quarter turn ensure the valve is open enough for fuel and air to pass and also that the valve stem isn't backed out enough to release the air wire. It requires surprisingly little fuel to get a lantern burning and you'll typically get that with the valve slightly cracked. It also takes a lot more than the valve stem being backed out a quarter or half turn to release the air wire. On many lanterns you can hear an audible "click" when the air wire is released and pops up and it takes several fulls turn for that to happen.
O.k. thank you . That bit of information makes me a little more confident with how my learning is going at this early stage. One last thing in regards to the two times the Lantern had difficulty shutting down. I'm always outside and there may have been a constant breeze that may have added to the pulsing of that pesky flame . Is that a possibility , because I'm always away from the house .
Great video.
You said it all without saying a word.
Don't have a 335 in the collection yet but I plan on trying to find one.
The dowel rod trick on the collar was impressive. Hadn't seen that one yet.
I will have to remember it.
What mantle did you use and will it run on a standard #21?
Once again great video.
Thanks for sharing and God bless.
These definitely need a #99 mantle. They will overburn a #21.
Thanks for the video. I just scored my first 335 (my birthday lantern) and it’s a bit different than the American made lanterns I’m used to. You gave me enough info to get it rebuilt and ready to go!
Bill, good afternoon. I wanted to ask you if the coleman mantle #11 is compatible with a 236 coleman canadian white gas lantern. I've heard that they are used more for a kerosene 500 cp lantern and I wondered what your thoughts and your experience is with this particular mantle. Thank you
Yes, it's got nothing to do with the fuel type. #11 are 500cp mantles and are for use on 236, 237, 635, 639, 621, and 635 lanterns.
Bill, Good afternoon . I have a 202 professional, I have a 635 silver coleman lantern, I love the Canadian model lanterns and as of this week, I may be able to purchase a 335 . I'm curious to know what your personal thought are in regards to this particular model ?
The 335 is a fine model. They all are, really.
Thanks for sharing, well put together video !
a very good old 335, such a good lantern 😊🤗
Good afternoon, I'm kinda new to the Lantern world, but I do have multiple coleman stoves . It would really be helpful to know what Lantern operates better . The 635, or the 335 nickel plated tank w/ the green vent ? Thank you.
They are equally reliable. The only functional difference between the two is the brightness and the rate of fuel consumption. The 335 will put out 300-350cp and the 635 500cp.
Good video! A heads up for anyone cleaning up these old Coleman products, don't use Spray 9 to clean up the outside. It works great, but it takes the ink right off of the labels in one swipe. Learned this cleaning up an old 421-D stove. Labels were perfect, until I wiped it down with Spray 9, Doh!
Indeed. A lot of strong degreasers will strip the colour from decals, usually in seconds. Dish soap is always a safe first option if you're unsure. I use Simple Green a lot, but even that will damage decals and leave streaks in some paint if left on too long at full strength.
من أجمل المقاطع ، امتلك واحد مثله
تحياتي لك 🌹👏
My 335 will pump and hold pressure but won't light. There's enough air coming out that the match extinguishes but there's no fuel with that air to light. I find it odd that air comes out of the tank but doesn't send fuel with it. I can't smell fuel with that either. Any ideas? I'm trying to figure out what parts to order, or does it just need to be cleaned? Thanks
The most likely problem is a clogged fuel and air tube. If you fill the fount full, pump it up, open the valve, then slosh it around that will slosh gas into the air intake at the top of the fuel and air tube. Normally you don't want fuel in there, but if you test it this way and hear the sputter of fuel and/or it lights, then you know that the orifice at the bottom of the fuel and air tube is clogged. At that point, pull the valve, remove the f/a tube, and give it a good cleaning.
Thank you. Super useful
I'm in the process of rebuilding a 335 "birthday" lantern and the paint on the fount is in amazing shape but the decal is very faded. I want to remove it without damaging the paint but based on others I've tried to remove this won't be easy. I cannot find a solvent that will soften the adhesive without dissolving the paint and heat doesn't help either (makes sense). It doesn't seem to be affected by any petroleum based solvents either. Any ideas?
I can pretty well guarantee that removing the decal will damage the paint. The glue is old and the paint from the time period wasn't great, so any attempt to just peel off the decal will likely take the paint off. I've tried on a number of occasions, but have never had any luck removing vinyl decals without damaging the paint.
Are you in Canada? I'm wondering where to get parts for a reasonable price that doesn't include shiping fees greater than the value of the parts. I'm looking for a generator, valve wheel, and a cap gasket
If you're in any of the Coleman groups on Facebook, look-up Agostino Del Coro. He sells viton cap gasket, thirty for $10. Other than that, you can try Vulcan Lantern Works. Some people don't like the guy, but I've never had any problems with him.
@@king.coleman Thank you so much.
Thank you for the video. I recently acquired a 335 and wondered how it disassembled. Not a fan of the silent treatment tho.
That’s great details explained video. Thanks for sharing 👍😁
I’ve just recently discovered these gems. I have not seen any of these in the USA but do see them on the online auction sites now. After acquiring my first one, I was surprised that they are roughly the same size as the 200a.
Thank you for this in-depth video on rebuilding one. I always enjoy your channel.
The 335 replaced the 200A in Canada. Despite the differences, they're functionally equivalent.
What fuel can i use in my 335. ? Gasoline? Diesel? Kerosene? Or just coleman fuel?
i found a 335 in my basement , dad bought it new in 1977 and it has never been used ever. it looks in great condition
Model 335 is a gasoline model, meaning it's intended to burn naphtha (aka Coleman or camp fuel).
@@king.coleman but can i use premuim car gas?
Why the SILENCE? ALWAYS enjoyed your explanations
Just trying something different.
My USA Coleman 288 lantern is difficult to light. It holds pressure (good check valve). It does not have a generator needle so what could be the problem? I make sure it has at least 90% volume of gas?
It should have a cleaning needle. If that needle is broken/missing, you won't be able to clear the gas tip on the generator. A clogged gas tip could be your problem, but to be clearer I'd need to know specifically what you mean by "difficult to light". Is the flow of fuel unreliable? Is it flooding? Is it losing pressure? Is it flaring?
@@king.coleman I believe it has the plastic piece where the fuel I let goes. Should I purchase a new one? Upon lighting, the mantles don't even glow. I can hear vapors flow when I turn the ignition on. Pressure holds.
I don't understand your first sentence. Are you hearing fuel or air? If all you hear is a hissing sound, that's just air. You want to hear a hiss with a bit of a gurgle or sputter to it. That means you're getting fuel. If there's no fuel, the fuel and air tube (plastic on that model) could be clogged or the generator tip could be clogged (and if your cleaning needle is broken/missing you wont' be able to clear it). If it's lighting and not settling down, you may have a blockage in the air tube. Insects and spiders love to crawl into the air tube, manifold, or burner tubes to build nests that will obstruct the flow of air.
@@king.coleman I just hear a hissing and no gurgling. Do Shafer valves wear out frequently or get clogged?
Schrader valves can fail, although my experience is that failure results in the valve no longer sealing. It could be clogged. I'd remove the valve from the fount and inspect the pick-up assembly and schrader valve. Old Coleman Parts should have new pick-up assemblies for sale and a new one will include a new schrader valve.
Thank you. I have been gifted a very dirty/rusty 236, is the handle to come off the same way in order to get the lid off and globe out to clean?
Yes, on most models the bail is removed just as the one on this 335.
thank's for the vidéo where can i find parts for my 335?
It depends on what parts you're looking for. Your best bet in the States is oldcolemanparts.com, but if you're here in Canada you might check with vulcanlanternworks.com.
Is there such thing as a 335 red lantern dated 1976? I was thinking the red 335 only existed in 1970?
No. The red 335s were only made the first year of production.
@@king.coleman ok, i am about to buy a red fount dated 1/76 to repair a 335 1970 so what model could be a red 1/76? If the seller listed the correct year ofc. The fount have a fuel cap with a screw.
Toronto didn't make any red founts in 1976. The last red founts were for the 335 and 200 in 1970. Three-piece fuel caps were phased out by Toronto in the mid- to late-60s. The only red fount I can think of from 1976 would be an American 200A fount, which would have a single-piece fuel cap.
@@king.coleman Thankyou for the infos. The fount is made in canada,i can see on a picture but i think the seller misread the date,maybe was difficult to read so with a 3 pieces fuel cap, maybe its a fount for a model 200 dated 66. I am not a coleman collector at all so my guess can be all wrong. Anyways thankyou for answering and i really like yours videos!
If it's Canadian and dated 1966, it would be from either a 200 or a 220E.
i have one dated 71 also i could not find globes for mind i got a screen globe from woods canadian tire today i found glass globes made by woods at canadian tire this was my dads lantren there very bright i go camping once a year in the fall i like this lantren
The Woods globes are fine. The original globes were No. 4. If you find a place that sells Coleman replacement parts-I often find Home Hardware is a good place to look-they'll usually have Coleman globes that will fit. This globe size was used on the 335 and 321 series and on most of the later models imported from the US for sale in Canada. I believe the current part number is 288XXXX. A cheaper option is to find a used propane lantern, as almost all of them use this size globe and can often be found for less than the cost of a new globe.
@@king.coleman thanks good advice on propane globes never thaught of that
Gorgeous!
Love the 335s!
Thanks Bill . The next time I run the Lantern, I won't use the cleaning needle , but what would be a safe procedure to shut it down if it's being stubborn, obviously I'll use the cleaning needle but it may flare up and although it may not at operating at full capacity, I've experienced some difficulties. It's why I at this point in practice and getting familiar with it, I only fill w/ fuel at a low level
If it won't shut off fully and the cleaning needle works to kill the last remnants of a stubborn flame, do what you need to do. But you need to figure out why it isn't shutting off completely. It can take a couple of minutes to burn out all the way, but if it's still going after 2-3 minutes, you need to deal with that leaky valve.
Thanks Bill . By the way, I also noticed that after I put in 20 to 25 pumps and turn the valve only just an 8th of a turn I immediately hear the spitting sound . Is this any cause for concern. As always, thanks for your help
@@wadeosceola6738 That's normal. Watch my theory of operation video for the Instant-Lite lanterns. The spring-loaded air wire that limits fuel flow to prevent flooding is held in that position by the valve stem. A quarter turn ensure the valve is open enough for fuel and air to pass and also that the valve stem isn't backed out enough to release the air wire. It requires surprisingly little fuel to get a lantern burning and you'll typically get that with the valve slightly cracked. It also takes a lot more than the valve stem being backed out a quarter or half turn to release the air wire. On many lanterns you can hear an audible "click" when the air wire is released and pops up and it takes several fulls turn for that to happen.
O.k. thank you . That bit of information makes me a little more confident with how my learning is going at this early stage. One last thing in regards to the two times the Lantern had difficulty shutting down. I'm always outside and there may have been a constant breeze that may have added to the pulsing of that pesky flame . Is that a possibility , because I'm always away from the house .
I'm sure you've been asked, but do you do repairs? I have this exact lantern but a 73 belonged to my dad, and I'd love for to go through it like this.