Hey thanks for taking the time for making this video for all of us DIY out here. Working on a 1934 Ford 3 window coupe that i got a hold of. This is gonna help me out a lot. Thanks again.
man u save the day. working on a motor that has no timing marks #1 piston comes up twice with a full rotation of the crank & was at a loss figuring out which is compression which is exhaust.
Thanks a whole lot, great video also. I was very unsure about the compression stroke on my #1 piston, I'm replacing my distributor... but you explained very well. Thank You much !
Thanks for making this video I'm pretty sure you've helped put alot of minds at ease. I have a question: I'm changing a water pump on a 2014 Ford Flex and the primary timing chain was removed without the Cams locked. Cams where manually turned for alignment. I'm assuming this video explains my solution? If so is it best to go ahead and remove cylinder head for setting (TDC) while making sure crankshaft is on the compression stroke?
Hello. I’ve never worked on a Flex or an overhead cam engine (believe it or not) but I assume there are timing marks that must be aligned prior to firing the engine. It sounds like you did that part, so now you just need to set the engine to its proper starting configuration, right? But isn’t a flex computer controlled? Therefore, as long as the cams are correct, the computer handles the rest, right? lol, I’m asking more questions than answering, but I think I’m correct. Please let me know if not.
Great video. Working on a stock 92' 302 HO. I'm not the 1st owner. Newly rebuilt E7 stock heads I just put on, went to tighten pedestal rockers and found no.1 ok, timing mark at 0. On to no.3 and on compression stoke TDC was no where near the 0 mark on balancer. Piston was way down. What should this tell me?
@FastFixUA-cam yeah. I'm taking it to a speed shop. I'm thinking timing chain might have been changed by previous owner. When valve covers came off one side looked clean, other baked in black carbon.
Right on definitely number one however ford I believe had rare one at I'm going to say one year that the timing was different i don't remember when or what it was, just FYI
I am trying to find compression stroke on Toyota's V8 engine. I took the belt off and moved crankshaft and camshafts. I have all the marks, I understand that there are two TDCs. And from your video I have learned how to find compression stroke. Now, when I am looking for the compression stroke on my engine, should I keep the belt off? I am trying to "reset" timing because I messed it up by moving the crankshaft and camshafts randomly with out the belt on.
Hello. It depends on which belt you’re talking about. The serpentine belt that drives your engines accessories or your timing belt which drives the camshafts?
Fast Fix I mean timing belt. But I guess without a belt there is no difference since the valves would not move... I have tried turning my engine (belt on) but the paper towel never popped. I did at least four full rotations.
Fast Fix the engine has a variable timing, I don’t think I have damaged anything when I was rotating stuff without the belt because I stopped when there was resistance. I also turned crank 50 degrees BTDC before moving cam shafts. So I am thinking that since it is a VVT engine, the valves will adjust automatically once I put it back together and start it. Is it possible?
Hello. I’m sorry, I don’t have any knowledge about VVT engines. I would say that the crank and cams need to be aligned at the correct degree for the engine to fire. That doesn’t change because you have VVT. I believe most VVT engines use a cam phaser to vary cam timing driven by hydraulics or an electronic actuator, but that doesn’t have anything to do with getting the crank and cams in the right position to fire the engine. You’ll still need to find TDC in relation to your #1 piston in my opinion. I don’t have knowledge on Toyota V8s either. I assume your engine doesn’t have a distributor, but rather a Reluctor wheel. To be honest, search for a more appropriate video for your application. My video was geared for domestic V8s. Hope it all work out and I’m sorry I couldn’t have been of more help.
I need some help. So ive taken my top end apart a few times, no issues. But this time i just cant get the car started. Ive tried setting the timing like 4 times now. Doesnt even try to start. Motor is fresh built. I took top end apart to fix a slight coolant leak. Put everything back together and no start! Any suggestions would be appreciated.. 🙏 Everything is connected. Spark plug wires on correct.
Hello. It’s pretty hard for me to say to be honest. So many variables and impossible to know the full situation you’ve got. Have you verified that you’ve got fuel? Spark? Then of course timing. It’s got to be one of those three things. Check for blown fuses as well. Probably a stupid question, but is the coil plugged in and working? Just go through your process step by step and verify the basics. You’ll figure it out 👍
i have a question i have a 20O4 kia optima 2.4 litters what happend when you have the camshafts in the guided marks and you move crankshaft clockwise a whole turn or even Two whole turns ?🤔
Hello. I assume for you situation the timing chain has been removed and the crank is turning independently of the camshafts. When this happens, your timing will be way off. You’ll need to find the proper start up procedure for your vehicle. Generally, this means finding TDC on the compression stroke on the #1 piston, but I can’t speak specifically for your car as I’m unfamiliar with it.
So I have a question, if you have your cylinder heads off and you have piston 1 at top dead center and ready to put the new cylinder heads on and torqued them down to specs do you still need to rotate the engine to get it on compression stroke?
Hello. The answer is yes. Even if the #1 piston is at TDC (heads off) you won’t know if it’s at TDC on the compression or exhaust stroke therefore you’ll need to verify when you put the heads back on.
Yo bra-tha I like ur video on the TDC cause I've done like everything on my 2005 Nissan Altima like the head gasket exhaust manifold gasket n the intake n bought a new exhaust manifold converter new spark plugs ignition coils oxygen sensors new battery changed the oil changed the anti-freeze n b4 that I changed the fuel pump that's the 1st 1 that kocnked out bt it's not starting r running n my bro said my timing chain n another 1 said the same so ur video is all cool bra-tha n I'm not a mechanic bt do know some stuff bt never have I done what I did bt I did it by whatching a video on how to change the head gasket on a 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5L engine 4 cylinder bt it didn't show how he did the TDC cause it was snap shots here n there bt I texted him n he said that the colored links have to b aligned with the notches he said so I'm gonna do that bra-tha hope u text back n let me know if that's what it is bra-tha
Hey, what’s going on man! Sorry about the late reply. I don’t have much experience on altimas or over head cam stuff, but that advise sounds correct. Got to line up the marks in order to have a chance at it starting. You can double check your work using the method in my video. Did you have any luck? Sounds like a big job. Not being a mechanic and getting all that done certifies you for sure.
@@FastFixUA-cam 4 reals bra-tha, COOL 4 UR RESPONSE BRA-THA bt have another thing that's giving me a problem bra-tha I don't know why my #1n #3 ignition coils r hard to get out #2n#4 came out all good like they should bt that's my problem right now, u got me good advice bra-tha
So you find zero after both valves are on compression stroke? I am having a hard time tightening rockers there gt 40 3 bar stock rockers, stock cam i beleive. Thanks any guidance much appreciated..
Hello. As long as both valves are closed be it on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke, you can set lash. Just need to make sure both valves are shut completely so you can set lash properly at zero. Do you have roller rockers or stamped?
Awesome video! I like the editing you did with the pop up graphics. I'm working on my Mercruiser 470, 4 cylinder which is basically 1/2 of a 460 Ford, has the same head, pistons etc. I'll use my bent pushrod from my number 3 cylinder instead of a screwdriver 😬. Btw subscribed 😉
@@FastFixUA-cam Do you have any videos on deciding/upgrading fuel injectors? I’m trying to immerse myself in the data before I jump in. Any recommendations?
I have cranked and cranked and I can’t get it to blow a piece of paper towel or my finger. I haven’t taken the valve cover off yet but I hear air just no pop. Any thoughts man?
Hello. Yes, I’ve got a few thoughts. If there isn’t pressurized air coming from the spark plug hole, your valves are likely not sealing. Check the lash and make sure everything is within tolerance. In the worst case scenario, your rings are waaaay bad and allowing blowby. Could also be a head gasket, etc…. But it really sounds like an open valve issue. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for the question!
Hello. Yes. Make sure the paper towel is large enough to fill the spark plug thread bore and you’ll be fine. If too small, yes could get sucked in, but still unlikely because the intake valve will be opening and the cylinder will draw air in from that location relieving suction on the spark plug. I’m sure this has happened to someone however who used too small of a paper towel. Thanks for the question 👍
Question. I’m rebuilding a single cylinder atv. The timing is off. The cam chain was removed and the piston was turned before putting back together. How do I find compression stroke if the cams are not hooked up to the cam?
@@FastFixUA-cam I believe so. There’s a cam sprocket connected to a chain. I’ve set it to TDC mark. And it’s acting like timing is off. Spark is fine, but it’s backfiring through the carb. I replaced seals, gaskets, the whole top end, piston and rings are brand new. Carb was jetted to factory specs, I’m just at a loss
It sounds like it’s 180 degrees off. As in the spark is firing when the engine is TDC on the exhaust stroke. I’d pull all the plugs, rotate the engine 180 degrees and try again. You should be able to find the compression stroke using the shop towel method. Make sure that towel fires out of the spark plug hole with force. That will indicate the compression stroke. Let me know how it goes
@@FastFixUA-cam so I tried that. Towel flew out the spark hole and then I kept rotating to the T mark on the flywheel and it still backfiring through the carb and not firing. I then rotated it 180 degrees and set it to the T again. And still same thing. Could it be valves? Or maybe a carb thing?
So the method is plug up the hole with shop towel..an when it shoots out ur on the compression stroke ..but ur not done yet until u feel the piston comes back up right?.. or i didn't understand it correctly..hummmm
Hello. The shop towel only tells us that we’re on the compression stroke. After this has been determined, you will need to precisely find TDC by using the timing marks on the crank pulley. Does this make sense? Hope so!
Hello. Generally, no it will not. The towel shouldn’t be popping out if on the exhaust stroke because the exhaust valve will open and relieve the pressure. However, this may not always be true depending on the camshaft. That’s why I say to go slow when rotating the engine. You’re more likely to pop the towel out on the exhaust stroke if you spin the engine too fast because the valve won’t have the chance to open and relieve the pressure before the towel pops out. Hope that helps.
@@FastFixUA-cam I was able to get the truck running but I found my self with another issue, its a stock 454 im using vacuum advance to ported on my carburetor but i also have an egr with no solenoid or anything just the egr and a vaccum hose, should i t off the ported port ? i have no more ported ports in my carburetor
s there a way to adjust the timing without marks? I took the chain out and my stupidity allowed me to turn the the sprocket s individually, which turned the cams. Now I have no idea where I am at. Call me an idiot because I am. 2015 Chev malibu 2.5
Hello. Haha, we’ve all been there. I did the same thing on this car which prompted me to make this video. Regarding your vehicle, I believe the cam sprockets have marks on them (small arrows or circular stamp marks) that align with marks on another sprocket. I’m not 100% sure on your 2.5 however. I’m sure there’s a video out there for your situation. This video is more for single cam engines. Best of luck
@@FastFixUA-cam ua-cam.com/video/GBcBrAuC7tI/v-deo.html . This is a small video of my cams. Do you think i'm 180 degrees off on the timing ? Thanks for the help.
Nah man we've all been there! Thank God for you tube and digital technology! Chiltons manuals and word of mouth was the only way we could do it back in "the day" lol
Man mines being a pain, checked tdc compression with the thumb technique and the balancer is like 45 degrees off stabbed the dizzy and it definitely won’t run might put here and there, I cannot for the life of me get it to run to the point I think the cam jumped time
Hmm…. Do you have factory timing marks or timing tape on the balancer? Some quick things to check are your plug wires. Make sure they’re routed properly to the correct cylinders. You’d be surprised how often that’s the problem. Also, are the points and distributor cap and rotor look okay? If corroded, replace those. Let me know if any of this helped. Best of luck 👍
@@FastFixUA-cam yup factory timing marks are there, but they’re no where close when piston is at tdc compression balancer definitely spun, and when getting it to tdc compression manually the car will only putt but not run, good fuel pressure, I’m seeing injector pulse I’m just lost, probably gonnna check timing next. unfortunately, I hope it is timing due to the fact of if it’s not I have no other idea why it wouldn’t run. Thanks!
Hey there. Hmm, yeah I’d say timing is likely the cause. If you’re getting fuel and spark, timing is about all that’s left. However, if you had a failure like the balancer key breaking and causing it to spin, you’d need to replace that or it won’t run properly. Hope it’s not that…could be a big problem if so. Again, make sure you’re on the compression stroke. I know you did the thumb method, but make sure you’re not feeling pressure on the exhaust stroke and going from there. Use the shop towel and make 100% certain you’re on the compression stroke. Best of luck and feel free to update.
@@Shogoat1304 vehichles that are equiped with computer technology then you only have to set it to top dead center on the compression stroke. 0 set, computer sets the rest when it starts up. thats with engines with no manual distributors that are equiped with cam and crank sensors. 2 different worlds when setting timing. also make sure your cam gear and crank gear on ford both dots facing uppwards at the 12 O'clock position on Ford's chevy's bottom crank gear facing up at 12 O'clock postion and the cam gear set dot at 6 O'clock postion must be exactly on line up to one another.and there you have it. .just make sure your cam is not set off 180 degrees out. other wise you will be tearing your timing gear back off and resetting the cam.
Is the compression stroke and tdc supposed to be in the same spot? I get confused when you find the compression stroke, but then adjust to zero... doesn’t that take it of the compression stroke?
Hello. So the quick answer is no, it doesn’t. It’s important to find the compression stroke first because there are two TDC moments in the 4-stroke cycle. If you don’t find the compression stroke first, you’ve got a 50% chance that you’ll be finding TDC on the exhaust stroke which will give you all sorts of trouble when trying to start the car. You must be on the compression stroke for the timing to be set correctly. Hope that helps! Thanks for the question 👍
no, as to the old marking it used to be 10 degress before top dead center so it will allow a good amount of gas say 1/4 cup just saying sample of gas and air is created by piston once it comes up on the compression stroke sparks ignites on the top of the cyclinder once it reaches towards the top once fuel ignites air compression creates more and bang from fuel fire forcing the piston back down. and that is how engine pistons and air and fuel works together.
I guess I'm an idiot haha. I just rebuilt my Amc360 and I've tried the paper towel method to find TDC compression. No matter how big or small the paper towel piece it will never pop out. Again...maybe I'm an idiot
Hey there. No, certainly not an idiot if you were capable of rebuilding the motor. Did you put some crazy cam in with major overlap? Still, there should be a moment when compression blows the paper towel out. OR, you perhaps have valves that are not seating? Sorry I can’t be of more help!
use a rubber plug or a wooden round dowel slightly smaller the the park plug hole wrap plastic arount it stick snugged into the spark plug hole. and turn engine over will popp out and sound like a shot gun going off. or can place thumb over the spark plug hole and turn engine over the air pressure will blow you thunb or finger out of the hole.
If the tensioner is purely hydraulic then yes this is a possibility but more commonly turning engine anti clock wise on some engines with timing chain tensioners creates slack at the tensioner and the tensioner automatically moves out to compensate and when the engine returns to normal clock wise direction the tensioner is way too tight and the weakest link in the timing chains / gears configuration will break or get destroyed.
yes and no. some inboard boat engines run backwards alot of peeps not know that. but anyways most time the engine is running clockwise just the distrubtor turns counter clockwise as to the shape gear on cam for the distrubtor gear. ford makes them in the front if in the back of engine like chevy did all will be working in the clocwise rotation of the engine. just a simple way of saying how ford and chevy made there differences. also alot peeps not know this either chevy made the 302 first not ford. chevy 1966 chevy Z28 /302 . also the chevy ss camero in some of them.later on chevy made a 301 big v6 engine for the 1980s chevy station wagon .
My imagination is too good.. pretending the valve cover was on didn’t allow me to see the valves moving.. can you do another video with the valve cover completely off?
is the pressure of the exhaust gasses coming out after being burned the same as the pressure for combustion?? im trying to feel for pressure with my finger but i keep feeling air blowing out twice
@@FastFixUA-cam that was a fear i had lol but its a great tech. Unfortunately I was a sloppy drunk then and I don't trust the work I did so here I am to check it again. The truck and I are both non ethanol this time 😂
lol, I like the shit-talk! And how can that be true when ford distributors are at the front of the engine? Perhaps Chevy likes it from behind? 🤔 😂👍 thanks for the comment!
Thanks for a short , to the point , clear and straightforward practical instruction .
You're very welcome! I appreciate you taking the time to drop a comment, thanks!
Hey thanks for taking the time for making this video for all of us DIY out here. Working on a 1934 Ford 3 window coupe that i got a hold of. This is gonna help me out a lot. Thanks again.
No problem! Man, the build sounds exciting. Those cars are sooo sweet 🤙
This is the best fully explained video i I've ever seen , exactly what i wanted to know all in one, thanks
Awesome to hear that! Thanks 👍
man u save the day. working on a motor that has no timing marks #1 piston
comes up twice with a full rotation of the crank & was at a loss figuring out which is compression which is exhaust.
Yeah man no problem! Glad this helped!
Absolutely brilliant. Thank you for the shop towel plug trick!
You are welcome! Thank you for the comment 👍
@@FastFixUA-cam crazy ukj❤ Nikki lmk full
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By the htooooollh😊yuubb😊
Thank you that’s what i was looking for to do on my Chevrolet pickup very nice of you bro teaching me how to fix my problem
No problem my friend! Glad this helped you 👍
Thanks a whole lot, great video also.
I was very unsure about the compression stroke on my #1 piston, I'm replacing my distributor... but you explained very well. Thank You much !
You are welcome! Glad this helped you. I appreciate the comment 👍
U
I use the good ol pipe cleaner in the spark plug hole and I just spin until the pipe is at its highest. Meaning the piston is at its highest
Yup. That’ll work too!
Thanks for making this video I'm pretty sure you've helped put alot of minds at ease. I have a question: I'm changing a water pump on a 2014 Ford Flex and the primary timing chain was removed without the Cams locked. Cams where manually turned for alignment. I'm assuming this video explains my solution? If so is it best to go ahead and remove cylinder head for setting (TDC) while making sure crankshaft is on the compression stroke?
Hello. I’ve never worked on a Flex or an overhead cam engine (believe it or not) but I assume there are timing marks that must be aligned prior to firing the engine. It sounds like you did that part, so now you just need to set the engine to its proper starting configuration, right? But isn’t a flex computer controlled? Therefore, as long as the cams are correct, the computer handles the rest, right? lol, I’m asking more questions than answering, but I think I’m correct. Please let me know if not.
Great video. Working on a stock 92' 302 HO. I'm not the 1st owner. Newly rebuilt E7 stock heads I just put on, went to tighten pedestal rockers and found no.1 ok, timing mark at 0. On to no.3 and on compression stoke TDC was no where near the 0 mark on balancer. Piston was way down. What should this tell me?
Hello. Sorry for the late reply. It sounds like the piston was at BDC when it should’ve been on TDC? Is that what you were seeing?
@FastFixUA-cam yeah. I'm taking it to a speed shop. I'm thinking timing chain might have been changed by previous owner. When valve covers came off one side looked clean, other baked in black carbon.
you just saved me some headache, thanks man
You’re welcome!
I bought a spring that you screw into the spark plug and man what a cool thing
Thanks for your awesome instructions 😀
You’re welcome!
Excellent! I'm going to try the bung in the spark plug hole trick later, that's physics in motion 👍😀
😂😂😂 indeed it is! Thanks for commenting 👍
Right on definitely number one however ford I believe had rare one at I'm going to say one year that the timing was different i don't remember when or what it was, just FYI
Great Video. Thanks for the info!
You bet!
I am trying to find compression stroke on Toyota's V8 engine. I took the belt off and moved crankshaft and camshafts. I have all the marks, I understand that there are two TDCs. And from your video I have learned how to find compression stroke. Now, when I am looking for the compression stroke on my engine, should I keep the belt off? I am trying to "reset" timing because I messed it up by moving the crankshaft and camshafts randomly with out the belt on.
Hello. It depends on which belt you’re talking about. The serpentine belt that drives your engines accessories or your timing belt which drives the camshafts?
Fast Fix I mean timing belt. But I guess without a belt there is no difference since the valves would not move... I have tried turning my engine (belt on) but the paper towel never popped. I did at least four full rotations.
Fast Fix the engine has a variable timing, I don’t think I have damaged anything when I was rotating stuff without the belt because I stopped when there was resistance. I also turned crank 50 degrees BTDC before moving cam shafts. So I am thinking that since it is a VVT engine, the valves will adjust automatically once I put it back together and start it. Is it possible?
Hello. I’m sorry, I don’t have any knowledge about VVT engines. I would say that the crank and cams need to be aligned at the correct degree for the engine to fire. That doesn’t change because you have VVT. I believe most VVT engines use a cam phaser to vary cam timing driven by hydraulics or an electronic actuator, but that doesn’t have anything to do with getting the crank and cams in the right position to fire the engine. You’ll still need to find TDC in relation to your #1 piston in my opinion.
I don’t have knowledge on Toyota V8s either. I assume your engine doesn’t have a distributor, but rather a Reluctor wheel. To be honest, search for a more appropriate video for your application. My video was geared for domestic V8s. Hope it all work out and I’m sorry I couldn’t have been of more help.
Fast Fix thank you!
Great job...totally helps me
I need some help.
So ive taken my top end apart a few times, no issues.
But this time i just cant get the car started. Ive tried setting the timing like 4 times now.
Doesnt even try to start.
Motor is fresh built. I took top end apart to fix a slight coolant leak.
Put everything back together and no start!
Any suggestions would be appreciated.. 🙏
Everything is connected. Spark plug wires on correct.
Hello. It’s pretty hard for me to say to be honest. So many variables and impossible to know the full situation you’ve got. Have you verified that you’ve got fuel? Spark? Then of course timing. It’s got to be one of those three things. Check for blown fuses as well. Probably a stupid question, but is the coil plugged in and working? Just go through your process step by step and verify the basics. You’ll figure it out 👍
i have a question i have a 20O4 kia optima 2.4 litters what happend when you have the camshafts in the guided marks and you move crankshaft clockwise a whole turn or even Two whole turns ?🤔
Hello. I assume for you situation the timing chain has been removed and the crank is turning independently of the camshafts. When this happens, your timing will be way off. You’ll need to find the proper start up procedure for your vehicle. Generally, this means finding TDC on the compression stroke on the #1 piston, but I can’t speak specifically for your car as I’m unfamiliar with it.
@@FastFixUA-cam everything came out perfect, I just lined marks once more thanks for your support !
Awesome video saved for reference.
Thanks!
Awesome video best I've seen very well explained. I am rebuilding a morris minor engine will help massively when setting up the timming many thanks 👍
You are very welcome! I appreciate the comment and best of luck with the engine 👍
Awesome explanation I’m going to save lots of $ doing my self. Your the man!!
Hello. Glad this helped! Best of luck and thanks for the comment 👍
So I have a question, if you have your cylinder heads off and you have piston 1 at top dead center and ready to put the new cylinder heads on and torqued them down to specs do you still need to rotate the engine to get it on compression stroke?
Hello. The answer is yes. Even if the #1 piston is at TDC (heads off) you won’t know if it’s at TDC on the compression or exhaust stroke therefore you’ll need to verify when you put the heads back on.
@@FastFixUA-cam thank you, I thought so was just double checking. God bless
Yo bra-tha I like ur video on the TDC cause I've done like everything on my 2005 Nissan Altima like the head gasket exhaust manifold gasket n the intake n bought a new exhaust manifold converter new spark plugs ignition coils oxygen sensors new battery changed the oil changed the anti-freeze n b4 that I changed the fuel pump that's the 1st 1 that kocnked out bt it's not starting r running n my bro said my timing chain n another 1 said the same so ur video is all cool bra-tha n I'm not a mechanic bt do know some stuff bt never have I done what I did bt I did it by whatching a video on how to change the head gasket on a 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5L engine 4 cylinder bt it didn't show how he did the TDC cause it was snap shots here n there bt I texted him n he said that the colored links have to b aligned with the notches he said so I'm gonna do that bra-tha hope u text back n let me know if that's what it is bra-tha
Hey, what’s going on man! Sorry about the late reply. I don’t have much experience on altimas or over head cam stuff, but that advise sounds correct. Got to line up the marks in order to have a chance at it starting. You can double check your work using the method in my video. Did you have any luck? Sounds like a big job. Not being a mechanic and getting all that done certifies you for sure.
@@FastFixUA-cam 4 reals bra-tha, COOL 4 UR RESPONSE BRA-THA bt have another thing that's giving me a problem bra-tha I don't know why my #1n #3 ignition coils r hard to get out #2n#4 came out all good like they should bt that's my problem right now, u got me good advice bra-tha
Thank you great demo.
You bet! Thanks for leaving a comment, I appreciate it!
thanks for that info. verry helpful
i was screwed for a second
You bet!
So you find zero after both valves are on compression stroke? I am having a hard time tightening rockers there gt 40 3 bar stock rockers, stock cam i beleive. Thanks any guidance much appreciated..
Hello. As long as both valves are closed be it on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke, you can set lash. Just need to make sure both valves are shut completely so you can set lash properly at zero. Do you have roller rockers or stamped?
@@FastFixUA-cam roller rockers or stamped. stamped at to flat lifters. and flat cam or the roller engine.
Awesome video! I like the editing you did with the pop up graphics. I'm working on my Mercruiser 470, 4 cylinder which is basically 1/2 of a 460 Ford, has the same head, pistons etc. I'll use my bent pushrod from my number 3 cylinder instead of a screwdriver 😬. Btw subscribed 😉
Glad you liked! Thanks for the comment and sub. Best of luck on the merc! 👍
Thank you, so much!!! I finally get it!! :)
Glad I could help!
@@FastFixUA-cam Do you have any videos on deciding/upgrading fuel injectors? I’m trying to immerse myself in the data before I jump in. Any recommendations?
I have cranked and cranked and I can’t get it to blow a piece of paper towel or my finger. I haven’t taken the valve cover off yet but I hear air just no pop. Any thoughts man?
Hello. Yes, I’ve got a few thoughts. If there isn’t pressurized air coming from the spark plug hole, your valves are likely not sealing. Check the lash and make sure everything is within tolerance. In the worst case scenario, your rings are waaaay bad and allowing blowby. Could also be a head gasket, etc…. But it really sounds like an open valve issue. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for the question!
Thank you I just seen how to fix my problem
Awesome! Glad this helped 👍
What if neither valve is moving up and down as I rotate the crank hub??
That could mean a few things, but more than likely, the wrong lifters or stuck lifters, IMO. Does this happen on all cylinders?
Great video
Thank you 👍
Wouldn't you have a chance of the paper towel getting sucked in on the intake stroke?
Hello. Yes. Make sure the paper towel is large enough to fill the spark plug thread bore and you’ll be fine. If too small, yes could get sucked in, but still unlikely because the intake valve will be opening and the cylinder will draw air in from that location relieving suction on the spark plug. I’m sure this has happened to someone however who used too small of a paper towel. Thanks for the question 👍
Great video man
Thank you. I appreciate the comment.
hello friend can you help me I have a special 78 Ford f350 camper I have problems with the distributor
Perhaps. What seems to be the problem?
Is the piston stop mean when you use a crank pin 📌
Hello. Not understanding this, sorry. 🤷♂️
Question. I’m rebuilding a single cylinder atv. The timing is off. The cam chain was removed and the piston was turned before putting back together. How do I find compression stroke if the cams are not hooked up to the cam?
Hello. Do you mean if the cam isn’t chained to the crankshaft?
@@FastFixUA-cam I believe so. There’s a cam sprocket connected to a chain. I’ve set it to TDC mark. And it’s acting like timing is off. Spark is fine, but it’s backfiring through the carb.
I replaced seals, gaskets, the whole top end, piston and rings are brand new.
Carb was jetted to factory specs, I’m just at a loss
It sounds like it’s 180 degrees off. As in the spark is firing when the engine is TDC on the exhaust stroke. I’d pull all the plugs, rotate the engine 180 degrees and try again. You should be able to find the compression stroke using the shop towel method. Make sure that towel fires out of the spark plug hole with force. That will indicate the compression stroke. Let me know how it goes
@@FastFixUA-cam so I tried that. Towel flew out the spark hole and then I kept rotating to the T mark on the flywheel and it still backfiring through the carb and not firing.
I then rotated it 180 degrees and set it to the T again. And still same thing.
Could it be valves? Or maybe a carb thing?
So the method is plug up the hole with shop towel..an when it shoots out ur on the compression stroke ..but ur not done yet until u feel the piston comes back up right?.. or i didn't understand it correctly..hummmm
Hello. The shop towel only tells us that we’re on the compression stroke. After this has been determined, you will need to precisely find TDC by using the timing marks on the crank pulley. Does this make sense? Hope so!
@@FastFixUA-cam ok coo thanks
Good job man
Thanks! Appreciate the comment 👍
Hi will the paper towel pop the same way if i was to be on the exhaust stroke meaning the piston going back up to tdc but on exhaust?
Hello. Generally, no it will not. The towel shouldn’t be popping out if on the exhaust stroke because the exhaust valve will open and relieve the pressure. However, this may not always be true depending on the camshaft. That’s why I say to go slow when rotating the engine. You’re more likely to pop the towel out on the exhaust stroke if you spin the engine too fast because the valve won’t have the chance to open and relieve the pressure before the towel pops out. Hope that helps.
@@FastFixUA-cam thank youu so much that makes sense.
@@FastFixUA-cam I was able to get the truck running but I found my self with another issue, its a stock 454 im using vacuum advance to ported on my carburetor but i also have an egr with no solenoid or anything just the egr and a vaccum hose, should i t off the ported port ? i have no more ported ports in my carburetor
@@rodolfogana2508 Hello. Glad you got it running! I'm sorry, I have no technical knowledge around carburetors...before my time :(
@@FastFixUA-cam thank you and yess i missed the sound, your video helped alot thanks
s there a way to adjust the timing without marks? I took the chain out and my stupidity allowed me to turn the the sprocket s individually, which turned the cams. Now I have no idea where I am at. Call me an idiot because I am. 2015 Chev malibu 2.5
Hello. Haha, we’ve all been there. I did the same thing on this car which prompted me to make this video. Regarding your vehicle, I believe the cam sprockets have marks on them (small arrows or circular stamp marks) that align with marks on another sprocket. I’m not 100% sure on your 2.5 however. I’m sure there’s a video out there for your situation. This video is more for single cam engines. Best of luck
@@FastFixUA-cam ua-cam.com/video/GBcBrAuC7tI/v-deo.html . This is a small video of my cams. Do you think i'm 180 degrees off on the timing ? Thanks for the help.
Nah man we've all been there! Thank God for you tube and digital technology! Chiltons manuals and word of mouth was the only way we could do it back in "the day" lol
Super helpful
Glad this helped! 👍👍👍
Man mines being a pain, checked tdc compression with the thumb technique and the balancer is like 45 degrees off stabbed the dizzy and it definitely won’t run might put here and there, I cannot for the life of me get it to run to the point I think the cam jumped time
Hmm…. Do you have factory timing marks or timing tape on the balancer? Some quick things to check are your plug wires. Make sure they’re routed properly to the correct cylinders. You’d be surprised how often that’s the problem. Also, are the points and distributor cap and rotor look okay? If corroded, replace those. Let me know if any of this helped. Best of luck 👍
@@FastFixUA-cam yup factory timing marks are there, but they’re no where close when piston is at tdc compression balancer definitely spun, and when getting it to tdc compression manually the car will only putt but not run, good fuel pressure, I’m seeing injector pulse I’m just lost, probably gonnna check timing next. unfortunately, I hope it is timing due to the fact of if it’s not I have no other idea why it wouldn’t run. Thanks!
Hey there. Hmm, yeah I’d say timing is likely the cause. If you’re getting fuel and spark, timing is about all that’s left. However, if you had a failure like the balancer key breaking and causing it to spin, you’d need to replace that or it won’t run properly. Hope it’s not that…could be a big problem if so.
Again, make sure you’re on the compression stroke. I know you did the thumb method, but make sure you’re not feeling pressure on the exhaust stroke and going from there. Use the shop towel and make 100% certain you’re on the compression stroke. Best of luck and feel free to update.
@@Shogoat1304 vehichles that are equiped with computer technology then you only have to set it to top dead center on the compression stroke. 0 set, computer sets the rest when it starts up. thats with engines with no manual distributors that are equiped with cam and crank sensors. 2 different worlds when setting timing. also make sure your cam gear and crank gear on ford both dots facing uppwards at the 12 O'clock position on Ford's
chevy's bottom crank gear facing up at 12 O'clock postion and the cam gear set dot at 6 O'clock postion must be exactly on line up to one another.and there you have it. .just make sure your cam is not set off 180 degrees out. other wise you will be tearing your timing gear back off and resetting the cam.
Awsome well done thank you vary much.
You’re welcome!
isn't supposedly when the piston of cylinder 1 reaches the top is TDC? I'm still confused...
Yes, TDC means top dead center. And in the case of Fords, piston #1.
So is that when the distributor should be pointing directly at #1 also?
Thank you
You bet!
Thank you again
Of course!
I use a wine cork. Works real well.
Good idea! 👍
best video, regards!
Thank you very much!
Is the compression stroke and tdc supposed to be in the same spot? I get confused when you find the compression stroke, but then adjust to zero... doesn’t that take it of the compression stroke?
Hello. So the quick answer is no, it doesn’t. It’s important to find the compression stroke first because there are two TDC moments in the 4-stroke cycle. If you don’t find the compression stroke first, you’ve got a 50% chance that you’ll be finding TDC on the exhaust stroke which will give you all sorts of trouble when trying to start the car. You must be on the compression stroke for the timing to be set correctly. Hope that helps! Thanks for the question 👍
no, as to the old marking it used to be 10 degress before top dead center so it will allow a good amount of gas say 1/4 cup just saying sample of gas and air is created by piston once it comes up on the compression stroke sparks ignites on the top of the cyclinder once it reaches towards the top once fuel ignites air compression creates more and bang from fuel fire forcing the piston back down. and that is how engine pistons and air and fuel works together.
I guess I'm an idiot haha. I just rebuilt my Amc360 and I've tried the paper towel method to find TDC compression. No matter how big or small the paper towel piece it will never pop out. Again...maybe I'm an idiot
Hey there. No, certainly not an idiot if you were capable of rebuilding the motor. Did you put some crazy cam in with major overlap? Still, there should be a moment when compression blows the paper towel out. OR, you perhaps have valves that are not seating? Sorry I can’t be of more help!
use a rubber plug or a wooden round dowel slightly smaller the the park plug hole wrap plastic arount it stick snugged into the spark plug hole. and turn engine over will popp out and sound like a shot gun going off. or can place thumb over the spark plug hole and turn engine over the air pressure will blow you thunb or finger out of the hole.
no false postive on compression stroke help a lot...
Indeed it does!
Can't you jump timing by spinning backwards
Not sure what you mean by “jump timing”
If the tensioner is purely hydraulic then yes this is a possibility but more commonly turning engine anti clock wise on some engines with timing chain tensioners creates slack at the tensioner and the tensioner automatically moves out to compensate and when the engine returns to normal clock wise direction the tensioner is way too tight and the weakest link in the timing chains / gears configuration will break or get destroyed.
yes and no. some inboard boat engines run backwards alot of peeps not know that. but anyways most time the engine is running clockwise just the distrubtor turns counter clockwise as to the shape gear on cam for the distrubtor gear. ford makes them in the front if in the back of engine like chevy did all will be working in the clocwise rotation of the engine. just a simple way of saying how ford and chevy made there differences. also alot peeps not know this either chevy made the 302 first not ford. chevy 1966 chevy Z28 /302 . also the chevy ss camero in some of them.later on chevy made a 301 big v6 engine for the 1980s chevy station wagon .
Good at what u do brother
Much appreciated. Thank you!
Arent you on the #2 cylinder
Hello. Nope. #1 on this 302 Ford is Passenger side front.
When u are spinning the engine are all of your spark plugs out the engine
Yes, spark plugs are out. Very hard to turn otherwise.
You look like Edward Norton 😂
He’s a pretty kickass person, so I’ll take that!
why would factory put tdc in wrong place itsmarked on balencer
They wouldn’t.
thank u sir
You’re welcome! Appreciate your comment 👍👍👍
My imagination is too good.. pretending the valve cover was on didn’t allow me to see the valves moving.. can you do another video with the valve cover completely off?
😂😂😂
@@FastFixUA-cam great video dude! Lol I didn’t think about the paper towel trick. Good to know. 😁👍🤜🤛💪
You’re welcome and great comments! 😂🤣😂
is the pressure of the exhaust gasses coming out after being burned the same as the pressure for combustion?? im trying to feel for pressure with my finger but i keep feeling air blowing out twice
Best way is to pull valve cover and look at number 1 valves--believe me
Having an eye on the rockers do help 👍
Good video verified my timing but still have a miss
Glad it was helpful to some degree. See what I did there? 👍
Oh God the rag sucked into my cylinder! JK. I actually used this video to confirm my TDC a few years ago
Lol, I said out loud “oh shit!” Glad it was a joke 🤣🤣🤞
@@FastFixUA-cam that was a fear i had lol but its a great tech. Unfortunately I was a sloppy drunk then and I don't trust the work I did so here I am to check it again. The truck and I are both non ethanol this time 😂
To bad that won’t work on a 3 cylinder diesel.
Haha, nope. It will not.
@@FastFixUA-cam will you do a video on finding TDC on a 3 cylinder diesel.
🏆
👍👍👍
Good vodeo
Thank you sir!
you are not watching balencer while turning i saw the mark clear as day
I was
Instead of a sticking your screwdriver in my spark plug hole I use a chopstick
Love it!
I marked mine with white out ..lol
you just passed tdc you do have a mark ou
Umm..
Ó
Umm… 🤔
Your first mistake was having a ford.
lol, I like the shit-talk! And how can that be true when ford distributors are at the front of the engine? Perhaps Chevy likes it from behind? 🤔 😂👍 thanks for the comment!
Wow. We have a fuckin' GENIUS here....
@@FastFixUA-cam Ford's have been trying but they can't get close enough.
@@mustangstuff7213 Mustangs are like porcupines only the pricks are on the inside.
Great video
Thanks!
Thank you
You're welcome!
Great video.
Thanks! Your comment is appreciated 👍👍👍