Yep. Always get the old fluid out the reservoir. If you aren't sure how, call up one of your girlfriend's and ask them if you can borrow their turkey basters.
I use an older metal version of this vac pump. Have been using this method on my cars and bikes for 30+ years and it works great. this method works great! When changing fluid, I first use a syringe to remove old fluid from the reservoir, then wipe it down to remove any grunge before filling with new fluid. This helps when bleeding the system as you can easily see when clearer new fluid start coming out of the bleeders. You can never get 100% of the old fluid out (you would need to take the system apart and thoroughly clean everything to do that) but this will help remove as much as possible.
Nice concise video without any rambling or unnecessary comment. All do yourself a favor and spend the money for this brand. I bought a cheapo Amazon version, mistake tossed it in the garbage
Thanks, BILL. Really appreciate comments like this. We strive for conciseness in order to reduce wasted time. Hope your brakes are feeling much better after getting bled.
Well done and straight forward instructions. I also have an MV800 and agree with the comment about using a clear 1/4" ID tube to attach to the bleeder valve port. The attachments in the kit are not so great, but the pump itself is better quality and works well. Thank you.
Make sure you have the bleeder valve open with some clear tubing attached, and fill the entire system (new brake line and master cylinder) through the reservoir. Once you have brake fluid coming out from the bottom bleeder valve you can then proceed to bleed the brake system as recommended. Try to recheck all bolts after your first test ride to make sure everything is on properly. Good luck!! Thanks for stopping by also.
I got the pneumatic bleeder tool from Harbor Freight, and it actually works pretty nicely. It uses air from your compressor, and all you need to do is pull the trigger, and the air is used to create a vacuum via a venturi effect. It has a large container to hold the old fluid, and good quality silicone hoses and fittings. Might want to consider it if you have a compressor; it's quite a bit easier than pumping with the vacuum pump. Only drawback I see is that you need to be careful not to tip the container, because then you might atomize and spray brake fluid into the air- not a good thing.
All the wiping down around the reservoir probably should be done before removing the cap, and after putting that cap back on, to avoid the possibility of knocking the dirt from the wiping into the fluid.
I'm assuming so. I used the tightest adapter I could. Optimally it would pull only liquid so I just kept the pressure high so that no air would go back into the system. Anybody else using the Mityvac know what I was doing wrong?
There is no need to bleed the master after pulling all the fluid out the caliper bleeder, redundant and waste of time. You should start by sucking the master out first, then fill with fresh fluid, then bleed and you're done. Provided you keep the master full at all times with fresh fluid while bleeding you won't get any air in the system.
Good, useful and well done video. I've noticed that people from some parts of the USA pronounce Jaguar as "jag wire". This is the first time I've heard reservoir pronounced "reziv wire". This is in no way a criticism, just an observation. Toe may toe and toe mah toe - one is as good as the other.
I grew up in Appalachian coal country. Left fifty years ago. Lived all over USA. Worked with Pinoy, Desi and other foreign grad students so influenced by many different accents. I use French pronunciation with educated Americans and foreigners. With working class Americans I say resser vorr. Slight emphasis on VORR. howjsay.com/pronunciation-of-reservoir#
Nebraska. Used to be called the middle of nowhere. There's a good book that says a lot about how much things have changed - "The Middle of Everywhere", by Mary Pipher. She writes "I've stopped seeing myself as a member of a majority culture. Instead, I see myself as a member of a world culture that flourishes in my hometown." A little off-topic with respect to bleeding brakes. :-)
I have been using this but when i close the bleeder , pump up the vac i start getting air bubbles in the line even B-fore opening the ble-valve ! Why ?
Hi guys, I am installing a braided brake line for my 2011 GSXR 600, When I finish all the things , I try to bleed out the air (use a vacuum pump) from the new brake fluid,then problem coming. The air with fluid continuous come out from the MC bleed nipple( I keep refill the reservoir twice of total reservoir). I tight every thing. I do not know where is wrong. And the brake lever just a little pressure
what if I were to pump-in new brake fluid from bottom and catch old fluid at master reservoir (remove say with syringe) until only new fluid is present into reservoir? would this method push old fluid from entire system?
I don't know. That depends if the master cylinder is a one-way valve or not. In theory it would work if the master cylinder doesn't prevent fluid from flowing backwards. Good luck!
Hmm. this is odd. When you say you put new line on, do you mean you replaced the brake cable? Or you put new line on the MityVac? If you replaced the brake line, then my 2 questions are... where you able to bleed the previous brake line easily? And as you are bleeding this setup, does any brake fluid come out of the lines at all? So are you about to empty the lines while the reservoir stays full? Thanks man.
@@XRLand yes , new brake line . Never had problem before . Not even getting a drop of fluid out at the end of new line . I took line off master and put finger over hole trick ..was able to get some fluid out . Was going to try reverse bleed . This is what I get for letting my XR go.
I've never bled a hand controlled rear brake, but it seems logical that this method would work. Hopefully someone else can chime in and confirm. Sorry I can't give you a straight answer. Good luck!
Great video. I have the same kit and love it. The only issue I have with it is the L fitting like you're using over the bleeder valve never creates a good seal for me. I find that with some clear vinyl tubing (from any auto parts store) over the bleeder nipple, and the other end connected to the tubing that came with the kit to create a much better seal. If there are bubbles when you pump it up or it doesn't hold pressure, you can seal it up with some grease around the nibble & tube combo. Works great. I just posted a video on this same subject on my channel. One comment on this video, you shouldn't be getting any air bubbles in the tube when your bleeding. Especially the amount shown in this video. You have no way to know if the air is coming from inside the brake system (meaning you need to keep bleeding), or from a bad seal with the vacuum pump fitting (meaning you need to seal the fitting). You don't want any air bubbles flowing down the tube when your bleeding brakes.
+Pet Rock's Garage You'll drive yourself crazy trying to make it so that there's no air coming into the part of the line with the fluid that you've drawn out of the brakes, especially with those ells that you get with the mityvac kit. If it ain't spongy then it's good, in my unprofessional opinion.
+knupder, yeah, the L’s that come with the kit are garbage IMO. But if you connect the hose directly to the bleeder and apply a little bit of grease to the base of the bleeder screw and the nipple & tube combo you won’t get any air bubbles seeping in creating a false positive of air in your brake system. Been using that trick for years without issues and I’m a stickler for a firm brake pedal.
7bikerboy7 You will see the same when bleeding manually also. Some air gets sucked into the tube around the nipple while bleeding. The air doesn't always come out of the brake system.
I do t believe I have any bleed nipple on master cylinder just the banjo so how would I bleed the mc? I have good breaks bit feel.there is something I'm..missing I have a one way valve for bleeding all.fluid comes out continuous bit thinking lever could be that extra bit former
Kevin Hancock I believe you just exchange the fluid through the caliper bleed valve if there is no MC bleeder. I need someone else to comment on this though because I am not 100% sure about this. Good luck Hancock.
Bleed the reservoir first. Somebody else mentioned that you can clear the reservour out and then just bleed from the caliper also. That is likely sufficient.
I find that brake bleeder to be a total waste of time. The fittings leak air and the entire system turned out to be a greasy mess. Total failure. Don't waste your time or money.
I'd suck out the old fluid from the reservoir first instead of pulling it down into the lines.
Thanks for the great advice.
Yep. Always get the old fluid out the reservoir. If you aren't sure how, call up one of your girlfriend's and ask them if you can borrow their turkey basters.
No need for the turkey baster he already has the perfect tool in his hand
A papert towel works too, you can easily tell when it will absorb enough
I use an older metal version of this vac pump. Have been using this method on my cars and bikes for 30+ years and it works great. this method works great!
When changing fluid, I first use a syringe to remove old fluid from the reservoir, then wipe it down to remove any grunge before filling with new fluid. This helps when bleeding the system as you can easily see when clearer new fluid start coming out of the bleeders. You can never get 100% of the old fluid out (you would need to take the system apart and thoroughly clean everything to do that) but this will help remove as much as possible.
Nice concise video without any rambling or unnecessary comment. All do yourself a favor and spend the money for this brand. I bought a cheapo Amazon version, mistake tossed it in the garbage
Damn I’ve done this a million times but you just explain it so well!
best youtube video on bleeding brakes straight to the point no extra bs
Thanks, BILL. Really appreciate comments like this. We strive for conciseness in order to reduce wasted time. Hope your brakes are feeling much better after getting bled.
Well done and straight forward instructions. I also have an MV800 and agree with the comment about using a clear 1/4" ID tube to attach to the bleeder valve port. The attachments in the kit are not so great, but the pump itself is better quality and works well. Thank you.
I wrap a bit of Teflon tape around the nipple, then place the attachment on. It helps keep a better seal, other than that the Mityvac is a great tool.
Make sure you have the bleeder valve open with some clear tubing attached, and fill the entire system (new brake line and master cylinder) through the reservoir. Once you have brake fluid coming out from the bottom bleeder valve you can then proceed to bleed the brake system as recommended. Try to recheck all bolts after your first test ride to make sure everything is on properly. Good luck!! Thanks for stopping by also.
THANK YOU! Quick and Simple. I wish more videos were like this. 🙏🏼
I appreciate the comment. Hope your brakes are fresh and strong. Ride safe and keep rocking the DIY mechanic within!
Very glad to help! Thank you for leaving feedback.
I got the pneumatic bleeder tool from Harbor Freight, and it actually works pretty nicely. It uses air from your compressor, and all you need to do is pull the trigger, and the air is used to create a vacuum via a venturi effect. It has a large container to hold the old fluid, and good quality silicone hoses and fittings.
Might want to consider it if you have a compressor; it's quite a bit easier than pumping with the vacuum pump. Only drawback I see is that you need to be careful not to tip the container, because then you might atomize and spray brake fluid into the air- not a good thing.
This is a solid, well thought out, and well made video. Thanks for cutting to the chase. Subscribed.
Thank you for the clarification. I had no idea that brake fluids were not petroleum-based. Hopefully this clears up any confusion. Good addition!
All the wiping down around the reservoir probably should be done before removing the cap, and after putting that cap back on, to avoid the possibility of knocking the dirt from the wiping into the fluid.
Very nicely done video - great job and thanks!
thank you. short neat sweet and straight to the point.
Thank you for watching and commenting :)
Just a comment on the air bubbles you're seeing. Do you feel that this may be air leaking through the threads of the bleeder nipple?
I'm assuming so. I used the tightest adapter I could. Optimally it would pull only liquid so I just kept the pressure high so that no air would go back into the system. Anybody else using the Mityvac know what I was doing wrong?
Got this Mityvac from Harbor Freight with gauge already attached. It is nice having the gauge but it does make the device a bit more fragile.
Great video. Just bought one of these kits. Thank you.
Glad to help. You'll be doing everyone's brakes before you know it ;) All the best.
How about demonstrating a reverse bleed with the Mityvac?
There is no need to bleed the master after pulling all the fluid out the caliper bleeder, redundant and waste of time. You should start by sucking the master out first, then fill with fresh fluid, then bleed and you're done. Provided you keep the master full at all times with fresh fluid while bleeding you won't get any air in the system.
Great, clear video. Thank you!!
Thanks for leaving a comment Jesse! So glad it was helpful. Take care!
Good, useful and well done video. I've noticed that people from some parts of the USA pronounce Jaguar as "jag wire". This is the first time I've heard reservoir pronounced "reziv wire".
This is in no way a criticism, just an observation. Toe may toe and toe mah toe - one is as good as the other.
Thank you for your comment. Where are you from and how do you pronounce reservoir? All the best!
I grew up in Appalachian coal country. Left fifty years ago. Lived all over USA. Worked with Pinoy, Desi and other foreign grad students so influenced by many different accents. I use French pronunciation with educated Americans and foreigners. With working class Americans I say resser vorr. Slight emphasis on VORR.
howjsay.com/pronunciation-of-reservoir#
Thanks for your posting. After living all over the US where did you settle down? Back home?
Nebraska. Used to be called the middle of nowhere. There's a good book that says a lot about how much things have changed - "The Middle of Everywhere", by Mary Pipher. She writes "I've stopped seeing myself as a member of a majority culture. Instead, I see myself as a member of a world culture that flourishes in my hometown."
A little off-topic with respect to bleeding brakes. :-)
That was a cool video liked it a lot, keep them coming
I have been using this but when i close the bleeder , pump up the vac i start getting air bubbles in the line even B-fore opening the ble-valve ! Why ?
Hi guys, I am installing a braided brake line for my 2011 GSXR 600, When I finish all the things , I try to bleed out the air (use a vacuum pump) from the new brake fluid,then problem coming. The air with fluid continuous come out from the MC bleed nipple( I keep refill the reservoir twice of total reservoir). I tight every thing. I do not know where is wrong. And the brake lever just a little pressure
Good point. Thank you for that addition! Have a great day.
You do great videos. Nice job!!!
Resov-wire?
great video, well edited.
Thank you for the comment. Hope this saved you some time on your project.
You build this manometer on top of it yourself ?
I have the same unit.. dont have a manometer on it ;)
this video is just perfect!
what if I were to pump-in new brake fluid from bottom and catch old fluid at master reservoir (remove say with syringe) until only new fluid is present into reservoir? would this method push old fluid from entire system?
I don't know. That depends if the master cylinder is a one-way valve or not. In theory it would work if the master cylinder doesn't prevent fluid from flowing backwards. Good luck!
Thanks!
i have this bleeder but cant get anything to come out of the reservoir ...i put new line on and master cyclinder stays full
Hmm. this is odd. When you say you put new line on, do you mean you replaced the brake cable? Or you put new line on the MityVac?
If you replaced the brake line, then my 2 questions are... where you able to bleed the previous brake line easily?
And as you are bleeding this setup, does any brake fluid come out of the lines at all? So are you about to empty the lines while the reservoir stays full?
Thanks man.
@@XRLand yes , new brake line . Never had problem before . Not even getting a drop of fluid out at the end of new line . I took line off master and put finger over hole trick ..was able to get some fluid out . Was going to try reverse bleed . This is what I get for letting my XR go.
Nice gloves. I like how they keep all that nasty shit off of your hands.
how do I put oil in, after installing a new brake line and caliper?
I have a hand break connected to my rear master will this still work?
I've never bled a hand controlled rear brake, but it seems logical that this method would work. Hopefully someone else can chime in and confirm. Sorry I can't give you a straight answer. Good luck!
XRLand okay no worries thank you! I’ll give it a try anyways I can’t imagine it’d hurt anything!
@@mikefawc22 Thanks man! Go for it. Happy New Year!
Great video. I have the same kit and love it. The only issue I have with it is the L fitting like you're using over the bleeder valve never creates a good seal for me. I find that with some clear vinyl tubing (from any auto parts store) over the bleeder nipple, and the other end connected to the tubing that came with the kit to create a much better seal. If there are bubbles when you pump it up or it doesn't hold pressure, you can seal it up with some grease around the nibble & tube combo. Works great. I just posted a video on this same subject on my channel.
One comment on this video, you shouldn't be getting any air bubbles in the tube when your bleeding. Especially the amount shown in this video. You have no way to know if the air is coming from inside the brake system (meaning you need to keep bleeding), or from a bad seal with the vacuum pump fitting (meaning you need to seal the fitting). You don't want any air bubbles flowing down the tube when your bleeding brakes.
+Pet Rock's Garage
You'll drive yourself crazy trying to make it so that there's no air coming into the part of the line with the fluid that you've drawn out of the brakes, especially with those ells that you get with the mityvac kit. If it ain't spongy then it's good, in my unprofessional opinion.
+knupder, yeah, the L’s that come with the kit are garbage IMO. But if you connect the hose directly to the bleeder and apply a little bit of grease to the base of the bleeder screw and the nipple & tube combo you won’t get any air bubbles seeping in creating a false positive of air in your brake system. Been using that trick for years without issues and I’m a stickler for a firm brake pedal.
Pet Rock's Garage
Are you using plain old lithium grease or some fancy silicone goop for that? I'm definitely due for a bleed.
+knupder, just regular multi-purpose/chassis grease. Nothing special. You can also check out my video on the subject.
Excellent.
Thank you, Vijay
i kept seeing bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve!!! oooops
7bikerboy7 You will see the same when bleeding manually also. Some air gets sucked into the tube around the nipple while bleeding. The air doesn't always come out of the brake system.
Good tutorial, thanks.
I own a Ducati. I’m an expert at bleeding brakes and clutches. It’s a requirement of owning one.
very helpful. thanks
Works better if you drain the bad fluid in the resevoir first then fill it with fresh fluid and proceed to do what he did in the video
nice video!!!
Useful...THX
Glad to be helpful. Thanks for leaving a message!
pump up the vacuum, pump up the vacuum, pump up the vacuum! pump! pump!
I do t believe I have any bleed nipple on master cylinder just the banjo so how would I bleed the mc? I have good breaks bit feel.there is something I'm..missing I have a one way valve for bleeding all.fluid comes out continuous bit thinking lever could be that extra bit former
Kevin Hancock I believe you just exchange the fluid through the caliper bleed valve if there is no MC bleeder. I need someone else to comment on this though because I am not 100% sure about this. Good luck Hancock.
Thanks for your reply I did release banjo bolt at mc brakes currently seem very good indeed
Thank you for watching and commenting. Have a great week!
DON'T FORGET TO PUMP THE BRAKES!!!!
Man just cut the foil off the top of that bottle so you don’t get that dribble like that. Makes much less mess.
Why call it brake fluid in one sentence and brake oil in the next?
It;s brake fluid.
Thanks for confirming that. Sometimes I do mistake the terminology. Cheers.
Brake fluid is not oil. Brake fluid is hydraulic fluid.
This guys skips around and just wants to hear himself talk, missed some points about which to bleed first, abs or wheels?
Bleed the reservoir first. Somebody else mentioned that you can clear the reservour out and then just bleed from the caliper also. That is likely sufficient.
2:42
"resivwaar"
I find that brake bleeder to be a total waste of time. The fittings leak air and the entire system turned out to be a greasy mess. Total failure. Don't waste your time or money.
worst kit ever
And a better one is . . . ?
He stated that this kit is the worst one in the all encompassing group "kit". Meaning, you can have a kit of anything, and it will be better.
excellent!
Thank you!