FYI when using a torque wrench with crows foot, the crows foot should be at 90 degrees. The way you had it 180 degrees actually applies more torque and may be why the crows foot bent some
Why did you buy the rpm vs apex? Link instruction for these thanks. KIT120 - JEEP WRANGLER JL & GLADIATOR JT - 2.5 TON TIE ROD & DRAG LINK ASSEMBLY - BLK ALUMINUM
Correction, I meant why did you buy apex vs rpm vs synergy? Did you change all control arms? After installing apex tie rod and drag link, can you move up and down the tie rod and drag link with your hand to see if any movement up and down ?
Synergy was not an option since they relocate the stabilizer and ask for minimum clearance which does not work with no lift (unlimited Sport) - might work for street but not offroad. RPM I did not research until that point. I did not replace the control arms. There is a 4 degree flop as Apex names it on the tie rod.
It did get way better! I had it for an alignment at 4 wheel parts and did let them check it. According to them there is nothing. I still think I will do the ball joints, since they are wearing out as well from Mopar. Also, on long curves on a freeway with super rough roads there is a little left ;-) Also, when having bigger tires the steering gearbox seems to be a weak spot as well. Weirdly there is not a lot of talk about this! 4 wheel parts confirmed jeep wrangler JLs have poor steering quality which leads to all kinds of different issues (death wobble, steering wonder, etc.) I hope this helps!
Awesome video
FYI when using a torque wrench with crows foot, the crows foot should be at 90 degrees. The way you had it 180 degrees actually applies more torque and may be why the crows foot bent some
@@jerrywitt1140 thanks for watching and sharing this!
Nice setup. I using Apex ball joints on my JK thx for sharing
Thanks for watching! I wanted to do the ball joints with Apex as well in the future! Unfortunately they only have knurled for JL :(
Did you re use the stock hardware to install the original dampers shock or did u need to buy a different bracket..
On the Tie rod new hardware was provided. The part where the stabilizer connects to the axle I did re-use the hardware
Nice
Thanks for watching! :-)
Can you make a video if you can move up and down apex tie rod and draglink with your hand to see if any movement?
There is a, I believe, 4 degree flop built into the tie rod of Apex. I can try to add a short later to get this on video.
Why did you buy the rpm vs apex?
Link instruction for these thanks.
KIT120 - JEEP WRANGLER JL & GLADIATOR JT - 2.5 TON TIE ROD & DRAG LINK ASSEMBLY - BLK ALUMINUM
I did not look at RPM.
Here you can find their installation instructions: apexchassis.com/pages/installation-instructions
Correction, I meant why did you buy apex vs rpm vs synergy?
Did you change all control arms?
After installing apex tie rod and drag link, can you move up and down the tie rod and drag link with your hand to see if any movement up and down ?
Synergy was not an option since they relocate the stabilizer and ask for minimum clearance which does not work with no lift (unlimited Sport) - might work for street but not offroad. RPM I did not research until that point.
I did not replace the control arms.
There is a 4 degree flop as Apex names it on the tie rod.
Hi there, did this fix the death wobble?
It did get way better! I had it for an alignment at 4 wheel parts and did let them check it. According to them there is nothing. I still think I will do the ball joints, since they are wearing out as well from Mopar. Also, on long curves on a freeway with super rough roads there is a little left ;-)
Also, when having bigger tires the steering gearbox seems to be a weak spot as well. Weirdly there is not a lot of talk about this!
4 wheel parts confirmed jeep wrangler JLs have poor steering quality which leads to all kinds of different issues (death wobble, steering wonder, etc.)
I hope this helps!
Übertraibs doch so langsam :D