It's a very nice report! I have a question about the refrigeration circuit for the monoblock with R32. Do you also have a 5/16" SAE connection on the suction side for filling, evacuation, suction, etc.? - as with air conditioning systems or split systems with R32? Or is it different? Normal refrigeration systems have 1/4" SAE connections on the high and low pressure side, which can be opened via Retalock valves and of course the solenoid valve for refrigerant line OPEN or CLOSED. So far I have not been able to find any information on this and I have never installed a monoblock R32 and of course it will have to be serviced at some point and the refrigerant circuit will have to be worked on.
Thank you for this great video! Thinking about getting this unit as well. Do you know if there is an inbuilt pump in the unit, or will an external one be needed to circulate the hot water through the radiators?
@@SSi-wo4xs overall I can say yes, bcos it has been running so far without any problems as well I havent done any maintenance so far. Ofc app lacks some featrures, but if you need it just to run problem free, it kind a has done so far :) at least for 3 years so far
I have one buffer tank, as well expansion tank and boiler tank for all hot water at home, but I do not keep water always very hot, I use system economically, I only heat water once a day in early morning (ive put schedul, it is heating water only 2-3h a day), or if the water is around 30C and I need to take hot shower, an hour before I manually turn heating on for an hour. In winter time it is better with my settings since it heats up radiators any way so water tends to be hotter, but as well it depends how cold it is outside. Any way it is possible to use more comfortable settings as well
@@JUrtanschannel i ask because i plan to install the pana only to feed the radiators without buffer between them and without boiler for hot water. There is a huge discussion on the web if a buffer necessery is.
Well I left buffer bcos I had it with my old system, so I didnt see what bad it can add, but if I would have to make a new system from the scratch, I would probably not use it. You can always add buffer tank later, if you figure out you need it.
I'm in the process of installing the 7 kW version, which I'll have delivered in 10 days. Very very useful video. Can you clarify something for me. Does the unit have a built in filter on the water side?
You should keep the tank temperature above 49 deg. and set the the pump to run the legionella/desinfecting program once a week on the cheapest day/time and keeping the high temperature for at least the time set as default. Edit: This is probably a too low temperature. Based on the advice of the lab responsible for the national guidelines we have raised the temperature to 55 deg. and is still heating the tank to 65 deg.C several times a week.
@@andregenter4213 Not according to the microbiologists - and they are even more restrictive in the guidelines issued here than some other countries. In Denmark the guidelines are as follows: Temperature at the outlet of hot water tank/heat exchanger - generally minimum 55 °C. Temperature at the tap and in the return water - minimum 50 °C after < 30 sec. Tapping points (faucets and showers) should be flushed at least once a week with water ≥ 50 °C. The above is especially important if there are vulnerable people in the household. We keep our tank at or above 55 deg.C and often at 65 deg.C because of excess solar energy being directed to the tank. Will inquire about the heat-resistance over at the laboratory next week.
@@MovieViking above 60C you will have to handle with massive lime. The best solution is to use a tank with 45-47C-Water and heat the fresh cold water with a heat exchanger. Always fresh hot water, no legionella. That’s state of the Art.
@@andregenter4213 So you raise the temperature after the tank with at heat exchanger, but if that is electric it requires a lot of current. The one we had before drew 3 x 28 A which is more than a house is normally fitted with here. It was fed water preheated to 30 to 45 deg.C. What target temperature do you set?
@@MovieViking No. you take a water reservoir, heat it up as you would do for having warm water and use this warm water with a heat exchanger. If you want Rochade warm water, fresh cold water is flowing to that exchanger and is warmed up. You lose ~2 degree. Means water tank has to have 45 C to have fresh warm water with 43 degree. Not legionella anymore. Units costs ~1.500€.
Great Video! Could you pls also make a short video how to clean the water filter. From the Manual it is not very clear how to proceed! I have now the Panasonic since 8 mopnth and it works fine. I learned a lot from your video tks mario from switzerland
hi, Thank You, yeah I have thought about doing filter cleaning, it should be easy thing to do, I just havent done it bcos one friend of me said since I am not using tap water in the system, the filter should be good, but when I will got some time, I will check it any way and make a video!
Very interesting, but if you just had put insolation on those few cm outside to the heatpump?! It will never freese, because the heatpump will heat up constant and keep the water circulating anyway.
5kw heating capacity, where it has 3kw electric heating element in case of really cold winter, I have 2x16A fuses, one for heat pump and one for heating element in heat pump if needed, so heat pump is not much more than 3kw it self..
it kā pat 100-150m2, bet tas atkarīgs no mājas siltinājuma, man uz 50m2, veca māja, daļēji silitnāta, tikai radiatori un ūdens boileris caur radiatoru cilpu. Eksplutācijā jau 2 gadi būs, tik tālu nekādu problēmu nav, nekādas apkopes neesmu veicis, šad tad tikai sistēmā pielaižu klāt škidrumu. Automātika arī strādā kā vajag! Patēriņa ziņā ir ok, jauda tik tāl ir ļoti labi, kontroles ziņā wifi modulis ir diemžēl vājais posms, jo nevar attālināti taisīt grafikus, nestrādā (softs slikts), tikai manuāli attālināti redzēt, kas notiek sistēmā un regulēt modus un temp., kas ir vismaz.. Skaļuma ziņā kluss, kas ļoti patīkami! Varu šo rekomendēt. Vienīgi dzesēšanu rūpnica noblokejusi, ka nevar pats pēc manuala atbloķēt, lai lietotu, ja pasts liek virsū.
hi there, I am sorry, but I dont know. In the instruction it was said that even if you got this model with cooling function, it must be enabled by authorized heat pump installation expert, and there were no instruction how to set it up. maybe you need to add cable and connect switch to control unit or maybe it is not necessary and you can set it up just by pressing some sort of combo of buttons in the control unit, idk. I am sorry
Thanks a lot for this video, very useful. In the rear of the machine there is "water IN" and "water OUT". I suppose they are the circuit of radiators, correct? How to charge the water from line? compliments for your work
Hi, thanks for question, yeah water in and out from what I understand means that cold water direction (in) and hot water direction (out) :) What do you mean by charge the water from line? Do you mean how to fill up the system with water?
@@luiginovisconti70 As you can see on the video, I have a valve where I can pump what ever I want in the system with pump and a bucket :D But I as well have a valve where I can let the water in if I need to add a bit. It is too risky for me to use just water , because I live in the region where temp goes way below 0C and if something will stop working in such a low temperatures, water might freeze and damage the pump, that is way I am using food grade antifreeze :) BUt the short answer you have to add extra valve, where you can attach external pump or hose which you can connect to your home water outlet.
in your opinion, are electrical connections with power supply 1 and power supply 2 both mandatory? Power supply 1 is for the heat pump (and this is necessary) but power supply 2 I believe is only for the electrical resistance. Can I not connect this one? I live near the sea, and we never go below zero .... does the machine work anyway?
Hi. Excellent video, very informative :) I just installed and turned on my WH-MDC09J3E5 for the first time this saturday, very similar pump to yours - found your video very helpful. I do have a question though - where did you tell the pump that you have a tank sensor? I also have it installed, but it is not showing tank temperature. I might need to switch it on somewhere.
@@maniacdk1 Ja, mon ikke. Herhjemme har det givet hovedbrud at fjernbetjeningen og app’en ikke kan bruges til samme indstillinger af ugeprogrammerne. Når man laver det i app’en så står der på panelet at alle programmer er inaktive, men samtidig justeres fremløbet på de programmerede tider. Comfort og Eco er også gak, da de kun virker som en +/- indstilling og nulstilles af et skifte i programmet men stadig i app’en står som aktiv. Når man så slukker i app’en trækker systemet 5 grader fra den temp der nu er lagt ind i programmet men netop ikke er tillagt “Comfort” indstillingen. Totalt gak. Lige nu bokser jeg med at komme af med den flow støj alle forindstillingsventilerne på mine konvektorer giver, men som giver problemer med tryk-balancen i anlægget når der ændres på (men jeg har ingen tiltro til den vvs’er der oprindeligt måtte have sat det op).
Well the two bars are 128.3 cm each and between them there is 40.7cm. If we speak about three bars mounted on top of two paralel bars, then the width is same - 40.7cm, but the lenght dimensions for them are like this - from first to second- 68.5cm, from first to third 106.5 cm. From side to first there is 10.8cm spacing. (Same from third to the end) and each of three mount's is 6.5 cm in width. Better would be to draw.. any way if you are looking for the three bolt middle points for holes, then for each side they are 17.5cm, 76.2cm and 104.4cm and approx 1.9cm to inwards(adjustable, i think from 0-3cm). For the two beams where these three perpendicular beams are connected you can drill holes where ever you need.
You should always do that. The electrician connecting my unit "forgot" to do that on the circuit feeding the 3 kW heater and the arcs from the loose connections burnt the wires, the circuit-breaker and came close to setting the unit on fire a month ago.
according to inbuilt electeicity meter my consumption was: Oct 208 kWh cop 3.1 Nov 361 kWh cop 2.4 Dec 711 kWh cop 2.1 Jan 518 kWh cop 2.5 but actually it was 5-10% more than that... so the bill, it depends of your contract. any way e.g. december the bill was over $260.., bcos electricity price went 3 times up :@ so due to this I will most probably will buy solar panels, bcos I have option, if I produce more than I need, I deposite it in the public electricity grid, and when I need it I can buy it back for 1/3 of electricity current price. a year ago it would not be worth to put panels moneywise, but now they make sense, at least for me.
@@JUrtanschannel hello. Can you please tell me which radiators are you using(model and size) and what is the temperature of heating water going to them?
@@erminmax I am using different radiators, it depends of your home, but they are type 11 and 21. Since I have thermostats on most of them, I am not using inbuilt controller temperature sensor to heat the rooms by it's temperature, but I have configurated the water inlet temperature to 44C, because I kind a saving money and so the COP is a lot better for that, and for water, when dT reach temp under it, the pump automatically heats the inlet temperature above 55C till water in the boiler reach the temperature I have set.
@@JUrtanschannel and for water, when dT reach temp under it, the pump automatically heats the inlet temperature above 55C till water in the boiler reach the temperature I have set. -> How was this switch happens from the Heating Circle between raditators and Pump and the Cirle between radiators and Boiler?
@@iljakozevnikov To be honest my system is not a good example for this. It is not like I made the system from scrap, I just replaced the old heat pump with this one. Basically currently I am heating boiler water from the same circle that heats radiators, I dont have any switches in the system to make it more efficient in that way, only during warm season I can close radiator circle, so the heat pump heats only the water in the boiler. But so far it has been working all right, and if radiators are regulated by thermostats then even when water heats up for boiler heating, you wont lose much, because radiators wont heat more than you have set them up.
Greetings, heat pump location - Latvia. During winter temperatures goes easy under -20C, however this winter was rather warm so I cant say much about how it will work in really cold winter, we just got temperatures down to -15C for a few weeks and then something like -5 to -10
@@JUrtanschannel Tks a lot what i am also interested is what was the consumption per month i guess I in a mountain Valley we can compare you and my location. may your part is more windy ours may quite cold but sunny if cold. I am looking forward to get a Pump like you the mono Block from Panasonic seems to me the best solution as i just want to heat my floor heating. I have already an Atlantic Pump for hot water as gas gets more and more crazy. And the price for such a pump is quit good. tks from sunny Switzerland today plus 30 celcius mario
Well done! Thank you for sharing this information! My woman and i are considering using this system in our home.
Thanks, great review. I got the same one. Could u explain how does the system switches from heating the water for bathroom and the radiators?
It's a very nice report! I have a question about the refrigeration circuit for the monoblock with R32. Do you also have a 5/16" SAE connection on the suction side for filling, evacuation, suction, etc.? - as with air conditioning systems or split systems with R32? Or is it different? Normal refrigeration systems have 1/4" SAE connections on the high and low pressure side, which can be opened via Retalock valves and of course the solenoid valve for refrigerant line OPEN or CLOSED. So far I have not been able to find any information on this and I have never installed a monoblock R32 and of course it will have to be serviced at some point and the refrigerant circuit will have to be worked on.
Thank you for this great video!
Thinking about getting this unit as well.
Do you know if there is an inbuilt pump in the unit, or will an external one be needed to circulate the hot water through the radiators?
hello, it has inbuilt basic pump
Thanks for this video, very useful. So you managed to install everything by yourself?
hi there and thanks for the video, are you still (after two years) satisfied with your panasonic?
@@SSi-wo4xs overall I can say yes, bcos it has been running so far without any problems as well I havent done any maintenance so far. Ofc app lacks some featrures, but if you need it just to run problem free, it kind a has done so far :) at least for 3 years so far
@@JUrtanschannel do you feed directly your radiators or do you have a buffer tank between them? thanx for your response
I have one buffer tank, as well expansion tank and boiler tank for all hot water at home, but I do not keep water always very hot, I use system economically, I only heat water once a day in early morning (ive put schedul, it is heating water only 2-3h a day), or if the water is around 30C and I need to take hot shower, an hour before I manually turn heating on for an hour. In winter time it is better with my settings since it heats up radiators any way so water tends to be hotter, but as well it depends how cold it is outside. Any way it is possible to use more comfortable settings as well
@@JUrtanschannel i ask because i plan to install the pana only to feed the radiators without buffer between them and without boiler for hot water. There is a huge discussion on the web if a buffer necessery is.
Well I left buffer bcos I had it with my old system, so I didnt see what bad it can add, but if I would have to make a new system from the scratch, I would probably not use it. You can always add buffer tank later, if you figure out you need it.
711kw priekš decembra nav slikti, kāds patēriņš bija janvārī un februāri? un kāda iekštelpu temp.?
Hi
Any chance you can make a video how to service it?
Thanks
I'm in the process of installing the 7 kW version, which I'll have delivered in 10 days. Very very useful video. Can you clarify something for me. Does the unit have a built in filter on the water side?
It has magnetic filter inside the monobloc unit, but no additional filters
@@JUrtanschannel thanks buddy. I'll add a mesh filter as well
@@JUrtanschannel just a note. There is a stainless mesh filter inside the unit with a ball valve on each side.
@@MartinPedersenTM yes, I am about to clean it sometimes soon since some time has passed :)
@@JUrtanschannel you can remove the magnet from the filter to better clean it. Just a small note. Mine quickly got full of gunk.
Nice video, can I ask you a question, for 450m2, what heat pump kw i need ?
You should keep the tank temperature above 49 deg. and set the the pump to run the legionella/desinfecting program once a week on the cheapest day/time and keeping the high temperature for at least the time set as default.
Edit: This is probably a too low temperature. Based on the advice of the lab responsible for the national guidelines we have raised the temperature to 55 deg. and is still heating the tank to 65 deg.C several times a week.
No, heating the water high once a weat creates high temperature resistant legionella! So use the water or waste it if you are away for severeal weeks!
@@andregenter4213 Not according to the microbiologists - and they are even more restrictive in the guidelines issued here than some other countries. In Denmark the guidelines are as follows:
Temperature at the outlet of hot water tank/heat exchanger - generally minimum 55 °C.
Temperature at the tap and in the return water - minimum 50 °C after < 30 sec.
Tapping points (faucets and showers) should be flushed at least once a week with water ≥ 50 °C.
The above is especially important if there are vulnerable people in the household.
We keep our tank at or above 55 deg.C and often at 65 deg.C because of excess solar energy being directed to the tank.
Will inquire about the heat-resistance over at the laboratory next week.
@@MovieViking above 60C you will have to handle with massive lime. The best solution is to use a tank with 45-47C-Water and heat the fresh cold water with a heat exchanger. Always fresh hot water, no legionella. That’s state of the Art.
@@andregenter4213 So you raise the temperature after the tank with at heat exchanger, but if that is electric it requires a lot of current. The one we had before drew 3 x 28 A which is more than a house is normally fitted with here. It was fed water preheated to 30 to 45 deg.C.
What target temperature do you set?
@@MovieViking No. you take a water reservoir, heat it up as you would do for having warm water and use this warm water with a heat exchanger. If you want Rochade warm water, fresh cold water is flowing to that exchanger and is warmed up. You lose ~2 degree. Means water tank has to have 45 C to have fresh warm water with 43 degree. Not legionella anymore.
Units costs ~1.500€.
Great Video!
Could you pls also make a short video how to clean the water filter.
From the Manual it is not very clear how to proceed!
I have now the Panasonic since 8 mopnth and it works fine.
I learned a lot from your video tks mario from switzerland
hi, Thank You, yeah I have thought about doing filter cleaning, it should be easy thing to do, I just havent done it bcos one friend of me said since I am not using tap water in the system, the filter should be good, but when I will got some time, I will check it any way and make a video!
Very interesting, but if you just had put insolation on those few cm outside to the heatpump?! It will never freese, because the heatpump will heat up constant and keep the water circulating anyway.
Did the wifi controller work just ok when you installed it inside monoblock unit? I mean it has metal covers.
It works, but i put my wifi router next to it inside the house, i would say 1.3m away.
Hey thanks for the video. One quick question - is 5kw the electric
Power or the heating power?
5kw heating capacity, where it has 3kw electric heating element in case of really cold winter, I have 2x16A fuses, one for heat pump and one for heating element in heat pump if needed, so heat pump is not much more than 3kw it self..
On the PCB is external control 1 for a modbus connect or where would it be?
Yes. Can you explain why only 2 cable run to control panel because it has to control 3way valve for hot water????
The valve is connected to the main circuit in the machine, same like the remote. From there everything is controlled
Uz cik lielu māju šis siltumsūknis ir domāts? Vai tev ir tikai radiatori vai kombinācija ar siltajām grīdām? Kādi iespaidi pēc pusgada ekspluatācijas?
it kā pat 100-150m2, bet tas atkarīgs no mājas siltinājuma, man uz 50m2, veca māja, daļēji silitnāta, tikai radiatori un ūdens boileris caur radiatoru cilpu. Eksplutācijā jau 2 gadi būs, tik tālu nekādu problēmu nav, nekādas apkopes neesmu veicis, šad tad tikai sistēmā pielaižu klāt škidrumu. Automātika arī strādā kā vajag! Patēriņa ziņā ir ok, jauda tik tāl ir ļoti labi, kontroles ziņā wifi modulis ir diemžēl vājais posms, jo nevar attālināti taisīt grafikus, nestrādā (softs slikts), tikai manuāli attālināti redzēt, kas notiek sistēmā un regulēt modus un temp., kas ir vismaz.. Skaļuma ziņā kluss, kas ļoti patīkami! Varu šo rekomendēt. Vienīgi dzesēšanu rūpnica noblokejusi, ka nevar pats pēc manuala atbloķēt, lai lietotu, ja pasts liek virsū.
How much the heat pump does cost? Are you satisfied with it?
do you know how to start the cooling? Thanks :)
hi there, I am sorry, but I dont know. In the instruction it was said that even if you got this model with cooling function, it must be enabled by authorized heat pump installation expert, and there were no instruction how to set it up. maybe you need to add cable and connect switch to control unit or maybe it is not necessary and you can set it up just by pressing some sort of combo of buttons in the control unit, idk. I am sorry
Thanks a lot for this video, very useful. In the rear of the machine there is "water IN" and "water OUT". I suppose they are the circuit of radiators, correct? How to charge the water from line? compliments for your work
Hi, thanks for question, yeah water in and out from what I understand means that cold water direction (in) and hot water direction (out) :) What do you mean by charge the water from line? Do you mean how to fill up the system with water?
@@JUrtanschannel YES!! How to fill up the system with water?
@@luiginovisconti70 As you can see on the video, I have a valve where I can pump what ever I want in the system with pump and a bucket :D But I as well have a valve where I can let the water in if I need to add a bit. It is too risky for me to use just water , because I live in the region where temp goes way below 0C and if something will stop working in such a low temperatures, water might freeze and damage the pump, that is way I am using food grade antifreeze :) BUt the short answer you have to add extra valve, where you can attach external pump or hose which you can connect to your home water outlet.
@@JUrtanschannel Thanks a lot. I live on the sea... no problem with ice.... thank you. ciao
in your opinion, are electrical connections with power supply 1 and power supply 2 both mandatory? Power supply 1 is for the heat pump (and this is necessary) but power supply 2 I believe is only for the electrical resistance. Can I not connect this one? I live near the sea, and we never go below zero .... does the machine work anyway?
Hi. Excellent video, very informative :)
I just installed and turned on my WH-MDC09J3E5 for the first time this saturday, very similar pump to yours - found your video very helpful.
I do have a question though - where did you tell the pump that you have a tank sensor? I also have it installed, but it is not showing tank temperature. I might need to switch it on somewhere.
Du skal slå tank til i installatør-menuen. Det kræver selvfølgelig, at du har forbundet kablerne rigtigt.
Jep, tak, jeg fandt ud af det 😄 der er mange indstillinger som skal/kan nørdes med, i sådan en Panasonic 🙈
@@maniacdk1 Ja, mon ikke. Herhjemme har det givet hovedbrud at fjernbetjeningen og app’en ikke kan bruges til samme indstillinger af ugeprogrammerne. Når man laver det i app’en så står der på panelet at alle programmer er inaktive, men samtidig justeres fremløbet på de programmerede tider. Comfort og Eco er også gak, da de kun virker som en +/- indstilling og nulstilles af et skifte i programmet men stadig i app’en står som aktiv. Når man så slukker i app’en trækker systemet 5 grader fra den temp der nu er lagt ind i programmet men netop ikke er tillagt “Comfort” indstillingen. Totalt gak.
Lige nu bokser jeg med at komme af med den flow støj alle forindstillingsventilerne på mine konvektorer giver, men som giver problemer med tryk-balancen i anlægget når der ændres på (men jeg har ingen tiltro til den vvs’er der oprindeligt måtte have sat det op).
Can this be upgraded to be controlled by a smart thermostat system such as a Hive or Nest etc?
Hi, to be honest I dont know, i would say no, but better ask Hive or Nest directly, they must know their products :)
Hi, what is the distance between the drill holes for mounting on floor?
Well the two bars are
128.3 cm each and between them there is 40.7cm. If we speak about three bars mounted on top of two paralel bars, then the width is same - 40.7cm, but the lenght dimensions for them are like this - from first to second- 68.5cm, from first to third 106.5 cm. From side to first there is 10.8cm spacing. (Same from third to the end) and each of three mount's is 6.5 cm in width. Better would be to draw.. any way if you are looking for the three bolt middle points for holes, then for each side they are 17.5cm, 76.2cm and 104.4cm and approx 1.9cm to inwards(adjustable, i think from 0-3cm). For the two beams where these three perpendicular beams are connected you can drill holes where ever you need.
Did you crimp the stranded cables?
You should always do that. The electrician connecting my unit "forgot" to do that on the circuit feeding the 3 kW heater and the arcs from the loose connections burnt the wires, the circuit-breaker and came close to setting the unit on fire a month ago.
@@MovieViking indeed! Looks like this isn't done in the video. All the cables look pretty messy as well.
What îs energy bill for a heating season ?
according to inbuilt electeicity meter my consumption was:
Oct 208 kWh cop 3.1
Nov 361 kWh cop 2.4
Dec 711 kWh cop 2.1
Jan 518 kWh cop 2.5
but actually it was 5-10% more than that...
so the bill, it depends of your contract. any way e.g. december the bill was over $260.., bcos electricity price went 3 times up :@ so due to this I will most probably will buy solar panels, bcos I have option, if I produce more than I need, I deposite it in the public electricity grid, and when I need it I can buy it back for 1/3 of electricity current price. a year ago it would not be worth to put panels moneywise, but now they make sense, at least for me.
@@JUrtanschannel hello. Can you please tell me which radiators are you using(model and size) and what is the temperature of heating water going to them?
@@erminmax I am using different radiators, it depends of your home, but they are type 11 and 21. Since I have thermostats on most of them, I am not using inbuilt controller temperature sensor to heat the rooms by it's temperature, but I have configurated the water inlet temperature to 44C, because I kind a saving money and so the COP is a lot better for that, and for water, when dT reach temp under it, the pump automatically heats the inlet temperature above 55C till water in the boiler reach the temperature I have set.
@@JUrtanschannel and for water, when dT reach temp under it, the pump automatically heats the inlet temperature above 55C till water in the boiler reach the temperature I have set. -> How was this switch happens from the Heating Circle between raditators and Pump and the Cirle between radiators and Boiler?
@@iljakozevnikov To be honest my system is not a good example for this. It is not like I made the system from scrap, I just replaced the old heat pump with this one. Basically currently I am heating boiler water from the same circle that heats radiators, I dont have any switches in the system to make it more efficient in that way, only during warm season I can close radiator circle, so the heat pump heats only the water in the boiler. But so far it has been working all right, and if radiators are regulated by thermostats then even when water heats up for boiler heating, you wont lose much, because radiators wont heat more than you have set them up.
In which part of Europa you are living I want to compair with my country Switzerland as i want to install the same pump. Tks mario
Greetings, heat pump location - Latvia. During winter temperatures goes easy under -20C, however this winter was rather warm so I cant say much about how it will work in really cold winter, we just got temperatures down to -15C for a few weeks and then something like -5 to -10
@@JUrtanschannel Tks a lot what i am also interested is what was the consumption per month i guess I in a mountain Valley we can compare you and my location. may your part is more windy ours may quite cold but sunny if cold.
I am looking forward to get a Pump like you the mono Block from Panasonic seems to me the best solution as i just want to heat my floor heating. I have already an Atlantic Pump for hot water as gas gets more and more crazy. And the price for such a pump is quit good. tks from sunny Switzerland today plus 30 celcius
mario
@@mfsalo It's in the video 17:21