Creating this art toy has been an incredible learning experience, and I have so much to learn as I delve deeper into the 3D printing world. I'd love to hear your thoughts and feedback. Feel free to share your own experiences and tips with myself and others below!
i think you are on the right track doing this. there isnt many channels with people designing AND printing, most just buy stls or simply only design for fx, games. Very nice job. Watch out for those fumes inside your room, its pure plastic particles that will go into your lungs, Cheers
@@eddiexx Thanks Eddie, I appreciate the kind feedback as I delve into the world of 3D printing, and no need to worry, the printer is in the garage 😁
Haven't seen any mention in the comments: You can use the resin as a spot filler for small holes and gaps. Cure it with a UV flashlight or the curing station and it bonds to the resin perfectly. You could even use it as a glue. That gives you uniform behavior during sanding. Awesome job!
what uv flashlight would you recommend? im looking for a high precision one but theyre all kinda wide angled or have poor reviews. Any recommendations?
@@bjornly-xr Not really... I've tried the green stuff world , its a generic led flashlight with uv leds. Ok for small jobs but weak. I just put the processed items under a nail curing lamp. Crude but works
This specifically applies to tape rather than masking fluid, but I have a small tip to help prevent bleed: After you apply the tape, lay down another light coat of your base color first, then your mask color.
yeah that's how I started printing and months later, they cracked and resin poured out. It was kinda heart breaking really but a good learning experience. You can only cure so far into resin so hollowing is really essential. I don't know what the thickness is you can go to but my models were big 30cm tall figures and they proper split apart and leaked ruining the model. I always hollow now which of course saves a lot of money on bigger prints but it also increases the chance the print will be a success. Heavy parts put a lot of stress of the print plate. Also you need to learn all about where to put holes for drainage holes. So much to learn with resin printing but a year into it you're flying haha
@@hadjjicus if you want to introduce weight, you can add that in after as a hollow model can be filled with anything from sand to metal bits if you want a lot of weight. I generally print with bases for models but if you want a figure to free stand on its own two legs then its good to print hollow and then just fill the legs with metal weights to bring the centre of mass down as low as you can. Top heavy solid models are the worst and I think you can assign a countdown timer to the first time they fall over and break. And resin will happily snap in two with a model like in this video just from falling over unless you're using really flexible resin. There are little secrets shared on forums about mixing 10% of a magic resin that's very expensive but it introduces that flexibility which is great for swords and pokey bits, anime hair spiking out or flowing dresses. Siraya Tech Tenacious resin is an old favourite to mix with cheap resin or you can splash out and print with just that and get amazing longevity out of prints. This guy is printing with water washable which is the worst for structural strength but you do get to avoid dealing with huge amounts of alcohol so swings and roundabouts!
@@ClayMannCorrect, Tenacious is great! At my job we mix 20/25% Tenacious with abs like resin to print covers for parts that are heavily used and prone to drop on the floor. The downside is that it has a “slow flex” so parts will deform over time if they are under force or pressure, even if it is very little. So keep this in mind when designing. The major upside is a really great improvement in shock absorption! We are now able to throw the parts with force into a wall without shattering, even if they only have 3mm thick walls. The only questions remains how long they keep these properties over time🤞
pretty cool! This is exactly the reason i want to get a 3d printer, to make my own robot toys. Pro Tip, go look at how to handpaint mini's for Tabletop games, learn about dry brushing and layering, and how to water your acrylics down and apply multiple layers per color to get smooth even finishes, and very cool shading. Watering down acrylics and then doing a couple of coats, you get very nice clean even finish on your paint. Seems to me that airbrushing with the rubber mask stuff is more complicated and time consuming than necessary. The watered paint flows into and down, water tension and gravity. And when it dries the pigment follows the water. While i love your model, flat plain colors could be juiced a bit with shading and details. I only start with a flat color as my base, then i go to town on it to bring it to life.
Great video edition, really talented. I would like to share with you some tips that If you decide to do them will greatly increase your art. •Try to hollow whenever you can your pieces before printing. This has many advantages as: a) You'll save a lot of money on resin, you will also save money by expanding the life of your nfep, as well as the life of the screen. b) Resin takes a lot of time to fully cure, when you print solid many micro parts of uncured resin will be trapped with time those will force its way out and it will crack your figure. c) By hollowing you'll have the opportunity to be more creative and add as instance a set of LEDs. Later you can always fill pieces with polyurethane urethane or Epoxy or Polyester Resin, for rigidity or weight balance if you need it, also for rigidity if you fill it you can add pins, for extra rigidity I use metal brass rods of many diameters. If you decide to hollow make sure you add holes as close to the build plate as you can as this will prevent a suction cup effect, and more holes for the drainage. Having said that when you place your figures on the build plate tru chiti or any other slicer give it an angle, it doesn't matter if it takes more time, you will span the life of your nfep and will avoid many failures, it's always better to be more patient but having more success rate. And you can always heat your resin so you can lower the time per layer, i have successfull prints with just one second per layer and use a brewing band that is placed around the Vat to heat it. Well sorry for this long comment, but when I started printed I did not know of any of this tips. Hopefully it is of good use to you. 😁
If you really want the sharp lines that you’re looking for in masking the best way to do it is the old fashioned way, a very sharp penknife, and masking tape. I recommend scale model car builders for painting techniques…
I bought big companies toys that had way more painting mistakes than your close to perfect job *_* this is incredible! I wish I put myself in position to achieve this one day! thanks for the fabulous inspiration!
Nice vid, i like to see your using a cardboard box for painting , I did that too :D but id love to get a proper spray box or build one. In terms of starting out with resin printing a few tips,. 1) Careful with the water washable stuff, sometimes it doesn't get clean enough. I'd recommend you get an ultrasonic cleaner , just remember to clean it after each use so resin doesn't stay in it. If you use IPA instead in that just put it in a jar or plastic bag thats filled with ipa inside the water tank , the loose resin should still be drawn away from the print. 2) In regards to cleaning, the resin water you leave behind btw after rinsing in your bucket is a pain because it takes FOREVER to evaporate and you CANT put that stuff down the sink because its harmful. I switched back to IPA because of this since it easily evaporates, just have to remember to wear a mask at all times (which tbh should be doing anyway with resin printing due to the VOCs) and just put the bucket outside during day when done with it. 3) If you do hollow prints just remember to clean very thoroughly as others have said because water washable resin will crack later down the line if its not properly clean inside and cured. I have had this happen and a little bit of liquid came out. So i personally always rinse about 2 or 3 times , so have a 2nd bucket with cleaner water to rinse in aswell Also get a little uv pen or led uv light you can put on a cable to stick inside the hollow print , the uv curing machine sometimes isnt enough to reach the interior parts of a hollow print. Sorry for the wall of text :) Nice model and happy printing!!
As someone who is just getting into making youtube videos and painting figures..Its very scary to do your first paintings,but at the same time..Its so much fun! You can always learn from your mistakes and aim to change some things for the next one Something you can do when applying your first coat of paint with an airbrush, do a very light layer,and let it dry off or flash before adding another layer. This will let the next set of paint adhere to the model alot easier,than just coating it all at once
I love your videos so much! I’m glad the algorithm of UA-cam recommended you a few months ago, I love your job! It’s really inspiring, and really good quality videos! Thanks to you I’m back to this journey of making my own designs
That's what I wanted to see. Will be getting into 3d printing after I become confident in my 3d skills. Was lurking around the internet trying to find as more info as I could on printing and painting, turned out to be not as easy as I initially thought. Seems like this full pipeline is what I was looking for
This is awesome. I've been wanting a figure of my OC for the longest time, and I got awesome friend that owns a 3D printer (I can't afford it 😫) who agreed to join me in this endeavor. I am just about ALRIGHT with 3D modeling, I never printed before and painting is also pretty much new to me (thinking about getting an airbrush for that). Not to mention I would like to it to be articulated... So yeah, pretty daunting. But seeing a journey like this is just... so exciting me, I'm pumped, no matter how long it takes, I'm in!
Also im not sure if you have started to manual support yet, but it is a lot better once you learn how to do it - on lychee slicer, you just use the "island finder" and then personally I put 0.8 mm support links on the islands, and then use a mixture of 0.5 mm, and 0,3 and 0,4 mm tipped supports on the rest of the model :) For clean up stage.. , idk if you care about any pointers/ sharing off ideas :D but im gona do it anyway ahha, you REALLY do not need to go as high as 2500 grit with clean up imo, I start with 200 -300 grit, and then go to like 600 grit and thats it, primer and paint layer will smooth out 600 grit just fine, 2500 just isnt needed :) feel like you probably waste a little time going all the way to 2500 grit For the masking, Tamiya masking tape is king, they have many widths and so can be very useful, I like to put it on, kinda overlap areas, and then use scalpel/hobby knife (and I keep a really sharp one just for this) to cut along seems and edges, and get it into the exact shapes you need, you could for sure do that with your shoes there :) alternitevly tho, just hand paint the red after a white base, I used to mask everything and airbriush, but after improving at hand painting after trying it a few times now, id probably just hand paint that bit now
loved the whole process. bringing something from imagination to reality is my childhood dream. I'm so inspired and definitely going to try this. keep posting great stuff :)
This turned out amazing! Can you make a tutorial on using Blender to separate the model into multiple pieces? The way yours came out is exactly what I have been trying to learn.
Fantastic work! And you say you are not a professional?!? I feel like I could do this all my life. I am 40 years old and I still collect toys. I take everything I can get my hands on. I wonder if it would be possible to learn all this and make my own toys.
I'm looking to get into making 3D printed movie props... you should do a more detailed video on the preparing the model/3D Printing parts :D Great content as always!
just use more resin to fill any voids then sand smooth, much quicker. remove supports under hot water makes them come off much easier and with less dimpling. Also highly recommend airbrush paint Createx brand for prime colors ( both Opaque and Transparent ) is extremely affordable and has much better pigment density over water down craft paint. once you get your comfort and skill levels up you can go for the professional brands.
Nice vid and toy man! Great Work and... I may offer some advice. It was directly given to me by Peruvian most famous art toy designers: If the piece is not completely perfect and the gloss varnish isn't polyurethane it is best to keep it matte. Gloss will enhance visibility of surface imperfections. That may had happened here. But keep up the amazing work! I'm eager to see more of your content, I'm definitely subscribing.
Thank you for this informative video! I am getting into 3d printing my figures at the same time. Could you post a tutorial on how you boolean apart the different pieces? This is the most intimidating to me. I noticed that the legs fit inside the shoes in a natural way. I'd love to see more of your process on that. I'd imagine youd attempt to keep the hair/hat separated for the next one. Also a tip, I find bondo glazing putty (it comes in a small tube) to fix printing errors beautifully! Its easier for me than two-part resin clay With resin printers, I find that a coat of primer actually removes the print layers beautifully, but I end up sanding anyway because I find that on occassion a layer is considerably deep from a printing malfunction. I thought I'd mention it anyway for if you struggle to sand away the layers in tight spots.
When I saw "last backup I swear" I laughed out loud. I have a colleague who uses filenames like "new last" "new final last final" "true final last" and so on... 🤣 BTW very nice video! I will share it with a friend interested in bulding toys 😉
Lol, I did that a lot before realizing it would be a lot easier to name them "version #", so, V1, V2, V3... The higher number will always be the most up to date, and you can also use things like "client version" or "review version" (CV# or RV#)... and, if I end up with more than 20 versions, I know I can keep 3 or 4 previous versions for backup and safely delete the rest :]
Instead of using liquid mask, try using normal blue tack. Youre always going to need to do touch up no matter what you use or how carefully you use it, but might as well use minimal effort for maximum result
This is exactly what I was looking for. THE WHOLE PROCESS! Thank you, I really wanted to start my 3D printing journey which the characters I modelled and this video helps see what steps to take and what to be careful and look out for. Great input! Also, how much time did it take you to print the smaller model? Thats the size I'm going for for my print.
Water washable resin is still harmful, but you can rinse by water. However, it takes time wash it completely and to let the water dry out before curing, otherwise you can see the resin stains on your masterpiece
Beautiful work! I can't imagine the amount of energy it takes to make such nice videos. I just finished my first 3d printed action figure modeled in Blender. I created the model to print on an fdm without supports so that I'd have no cleanup to do. Turned out great. Funnily enough I printed my figure on an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro and I had a hell of a time. Pretty much done with this printer, and while I can't have a resin printer in my situation I am looking to upgrade/side-grade to a Bambu labs.
Amazing video man, I've been trying to get myself to learn blender to sculpt these kind of stuff, by the way, is this sculpt available for purchase somewhere? I'd love to print myself one for motivation, its a great model haha
Creating this art toy has been an incredible learning experience, and I have so much to learn as I delve deeper into the 3D printing world. I'd love to hear your thoughts and feedback. Feel free to share your own experiences and tips with myself and others below!
How long was the whole process from designing to paint finished? I am not an artist by any means but would love to do it for a hobby.
i think you are on the right track doing this. there isnt many channels with people designing AND printing, most just buy stls or simply only design for fx, games. Very nice job. Watch out for those fumes inside your room, its pure plastic particles that will go into your lungs, Cheers
@@eddiexx Thanks Eddie, I appreciate the kind feedback as I delve into the world of 3D printing, and no need to worry, the printer is in the garage 😁
Haven't seen any mention in the comments: You can use the resin as a spot filler for small holes and gaps. Cure it with a UV flashlight or the curing station and it bonds to the resin perfectly. You could even use it as a glue. That gives you uniform behavior during sanding.
Awesome job!
what uv flashlight would you recommend? im looking for a high precision one but theyre all kinda wide angled or have poor reviews. Any recommendations?
@@bjornly-xr Not really... I've tried the green stuff world , its a generic led flashlight with uv leds. Ok for small jobs but weak. I just put the processed items under a nail curing lamp. Crude but works
This specifically applies to tape rather than masking fluid, but I have a small tip to help prevent bleed: After you apply the tape, lay down another light coat of your base color first, then your mask color.
You mean to cover the tape with base color so the other color won't bleed through the tape?
@@NateWithWho Yes.
@@SpaceManRD thanks!
Could you provide an example? Like say I wanted to paint the shoe white but not the leg. Once I cover the leg with tape, what would be the next step?
Man, you printed without hollowing each part???? try doing it so it will save you a lot of resin. still amazing work. cheers.
some figures are like that on purpose for weight and balance
yeah that's how I started printing and months later, they cracked and resin poured out. It was kinda heart breaking really but a good learning experience. You can only cure so far into resin so hollowing is really essential. I don't know what the thickness is you can go to but my models were big 30cm tall figures and they proper split apart and leaked ruining the model.
I always hollow now which of course saves a lot of money on bigger prints but it also increases the chance the print will be a success. Heavy parts put a lot of stress of the print plate. Also you need to learn all about where to put holes for drainage holes. So much to learn with resin printing but a year into it you're flying haha
@@hadjjicus if you want to introduce weight, you can add that in after as a hollow model can be filled with anything from sand to metal bits if you want a lot of weight. I generally print with bases for models but if you want a figure to free stand on its own two legs then its good to print hollow and then just fill the legs with metal weights to bring the centre of mass down as low as you can. Top heavy solid models are the worst and I think you can assign a countdown timer to the first time they fall over and break. And resin will happily snap in two with a model like in this video just from falling over unless you're using really flexible resin. There are little secrets shared on forums about mixing 10% of a magic resin that's very expensive but it introduces that flexibility which is great for swords and pokey bits, anime hair spiking out or flowing dresses. Siraya Tech Tenacious resin is an old favourite to mix with cheap resin or you can splash out and print with just that and get amazing longevity out of prints. This guy is printing with water washable which is the worst for structural strength but you do get to avoid dealing with huge amounts of alcohol so swings and roundabouts!
@@ClayMannCorrect, Tenacious is great! At my job we mix 20/25% Tenacious with abs like resin to print covers for parts that are heavily used and prone to drop on the floor. The downside is that it has a “slow flex” so parts will deform over time if they are under force or pressure, even if it is very little. So keep this in mind when designing. The major upside is a really great improvement in shock absorption! We are now able to throw the parts with force into a wall without shattering, even if they only have 3mm thick walls. The only questions remains how long they keep these properties over time🤞
@@ClayManndrilling holes are not enough, probably need a small UV LED to cure inside the model, just an idea I have not tried this way.
pretty cool! This is exactly the reason i want to get a 3d printer, to make my own robot toys. Pro Tip, go look at how to handpaint mini's for Tabletop games, learn about dry brushing and layering, and how to water your acrylics down and apply multiple layers per color to get smooth even finishes, and very cool shading. Watering down acrylics and then doing a couple of coats, you get very nice clean even finish on your paint. Seems to me that airbrushing with the rubber mask stuff is more complicated and time consuming than necessary. The watered paint flows into and down, water tension and gravity. And when it dries the pigment follows the water. While i love your model, flat plain colors could be juiced a bit with shading and details. I only start with a flat color as my base, then i go to town on it to bring it to life.
These are some great tips, thank you!
Great video edition, really talented. I would like to share with you some tips that If you decide to do them will greatly increase your art.
•Try to hollow whenever you can your pieces before printing. This has many advantages as: a) You'll save a lot of money on resin, you will also save money by expanding the life of your nfep, as well as the life of the screen. b) Resin takes a lot of time to fully cure, when you print solid many micro parts of uncured resin will be trapped with time those will force its way out and it will crack your figure. c) By hollowing you'll have the opportunity to be more creative and add as instance a set of LEDs. Later you can always fill pieces with polyurethane urethane or Epoxy or Polyester Resin, for rigidity or weight balance if you need it, also for rigidity if you fill it you can add pins, for extra rigidity I use metal brass rods of many diameters. If you decide to hollow make sure you add holes as close to the build plate as you can as this will prevent a suction cup effect, and more holes for the drainage.
Having said that when you place your figures on the build plate tru chiti or any other slicer give it an angle, it doesn't matter if it takes more time, you will span the life of your nfep and will avoid many failures, it's always better to be more patient but having more success rate. And you can always heat your resin so you can lower the time per layer, i have successfull prints with just one second per layer and use a brewing band that is placed around the Vat to heat it.
Well sorry for this long comment, but when I started printed I did not know of any of this tips. Hopefully it is of good use to you. 😁
Thanks! Been thinking about buying a resin printer for myself. Any recommendations? Maybe waiting for the BambuLab model that isn't announced yet? 😀
If you really want the sharp lines that you’re looking for in masking the best way to do it is the old fashioned way, a very sharp penknife, and masking tape. I recommend scale model car builders for painting techniques…
OH WOW Keelan! I really really loved it!! More characthers and resin toy's process like this one!
Glad you liked it! 😁
I bought big companies toys that had way more painting mistakes than your close to perfect job *_* this is incredible! I wish I put myself in position to achieve this one day! thanks for the fabulous inspiration!
Honestly, considering that this is your fiirst attempt at something like this, it is pretty amazing. Well done!
Great video! Inspiring to see your entire process!
Nice vid, i like to see your using a cardboard box for painting , I did that too :D but id love to get a proper spray box or build one. In terms of starting out with resin printing a few tips,.
1) Careful with the water washable stuff, sometimes it doesn't get clean enough. I'd recommend you get an ultrasonic cleaner , just remember to clean it after each use so resin doesn't stay in it. If you use IPA instead in that just put it in a jar or plastic bag thats filled with ipa inside the water tank , the loose resin should still be drawn away from the print.
2) In regards to cleaning, the resin water you leave behind btw after rinsing in your bucket is a pain because it takes FOREVER to evaporate and you CANT put that stuff down the sink because its harmful. I switched back to IPA because of this since it easily evaporates, just have to remember to wear a mask at all times (which tbh should be doing anyway with resin printing due to the VOCs) and just put the bucket outside during day when done with it.
3) If you do hollow prints just remember to clean very thoroughly as others have said because water washable resin will crack later down the line if its not properly clean inside and cured. I have had this happen and a little bit of liquid came out. So i personally always rinse about 2 or 3 times , so have a 2nd bucket with cleaner water to rinse in aswell Also get a little uv pen or led uv light you can put on a cable to stick inside the hollow print , the uv curing machine sometimes isnt enough to reach the interior parts of a hollow print.
Sorry for the wall of text :) Nice model and happy printing!!
As someone who is just getting into making youtube videos and painting figures..Its very scary to do your first paintings,but at the same time..Its so much fun!
You can always learn from your mistakes and aim to change some things for the next one
Something you can do when applying your first coat of paint with an airbrush, do a very light layer,and let it dry off or flash before adding another layer. This will let the next set of paint adhere to the model alot easier,than just coating it all at once
I love your videos so much! I’m glad the algorithm of UA-cam recommended you a few months ago, I love your job! It’s really inspiring, and really good quality videos! Thanks to you I’m back to this journey of making my own designs
That's what I wanted to see. Will be getting into 3d printing after I become confident in my 3d skills. Was lurking around the internet trying to find as more info as I could on printing and painting, turned out to be not as easy as I initially thought. Seems like this full pipeline is what I was looking for
This is awesome. I've been wanting a figure of my OC for the longest time, and I got awesome friend that owns a 3D printer (I can't afford it 😫) who agreed to join me in this endeavor.
I am just about ALRIGHT with 3D modeling, I never printed before and painting is also pretty much new to me (thinking about getting an airbrush for that). Not to mention I would like to it to be articulated... So yeah, pretty daunting.
But seeing a journey like this is just... so exciting me, I'm pumped, no matter how long it takes, I'm in!
Also im not sure if you have started to manual support yet, but it is a lot better once you learn how to do it - on lychee slicer, you just use the "island finder" and then personally I put 0.8 mm support links on the islands, and then use a mixture of 0.5 mm, and 0,3 and 0,4 mm tipped supports on the rest of the model :)
For clean up stage.. , idk if you care about any pointers/ sharing off ideas :D but im gona do it anyway ahha, you REALLY do not need to go as high as 2500 grit with clean up imo, I start with 200 -300 grit, and then go to like 600 grit and thats it, primer and paint layer will smooth out 600 grit just fine, 2500 just isnt needed :) feel like you probably waste a little time going all the way to 2500 grit
For the masking, Tamiya masking tape is king, they have many widths and so can be very useful, I like to put it on, kinda overlap areas, and then use scalpel/hobby knife (and I keep a really sharp one just for this) to cut along seems and edges, and get it into the exact shapes you need, you could for sure do that with your shoes there :) alternitevly tho, just hand paint the red after a white base, I used to mask everything and airbriush, but after improving at hand painting after trying it a few times now, id probably just hand paint that bit now
that's such an epic pose too
You have put a lot of hard work into this. The result is astonishing! Cheers!
brilliantly well covered all the steps and their troubles... thank u so much for sharing this !
loved the whole process. bringing something from imagination to reality is my childhood dream. I'm so inspired and definitely going to try this. keep posting great stuff :)
Awesome! A perfect print and incredible painting! Love this. Really want to print one!
Thank you!
I started my Blender journey with your video just yesterday, now you started your journey making figures , lets do this!! Subscribed
Lets go!
oh man, I think that came out super great! Gotta be satisfying seeing your model in the real world :D
Thanks man, it's a lot of work, but incredibly satisfying!
I love this model. I could create dioramas based on this little guy. 👍🏼 well done
You did a great job. The character looks cute. I love this job.
This was such an enjoyable watch!!! 🙏🏼
Thanks man, I appreciate you stopping by!
Oh! Thanks for video! That was exactly what I was searching for!
This turned out amazing! Can you make a tutorial on using Blender to separate the model into multiple pieces? The way yours came out is exactly what I have been trying to learn.
wow insane u got a Saturn 4
Fantastic process video. Really well edited I must say 👍
Fantastic work! And you say you are not a professional?!? I feel like I could do this all my life. I am 40 years old and I still collect toys. I take everything I can get my hands on. I wonder if it would be possible to learn all this and make my own toys.
i can´t really stop watching this video, amagazin job!!! your craft is top! 🤩🤩
I'm looking to get into making 3D printed movie props... you should do a more detailed video on the preparing the model/3D Printing parts :D Great content as always!
Thank you, I'm still learning but in time I'd love to bring a little more of this type of content to the channel 😁
looks amazing. Thanks for walking us through this.
this video just made me happy to be an artist, such a good vibe :3
I watch you when I was a beginner in blender and now I'm a pro at blender and make my own channel, thank a lot 😁✌
Happy to hear that!
@@KeelanJon 🙏
That’s so cool! Resin is so cool I just don’t like the safety hazards it comes with 😭
Interesting and informative 100%
just use more resin to fill any voids then sand smooth, much quicker. remove supports under hot water makes them come off much easier and with less dimpling. Also highly recommend airbrush paint Createx brand for prime colors ( both Opaque and Transparent ) is extremely affordable and has much better pigment density over water down craft paint. once you get your comfort and skill levels up you can go for the professional brands.
Nice vid and toy man! Great Work and... I may offer some advice. It was directly given to me by Peruvian most famous art toy designers: If the piece is not completely perfect and the gloss varnish isn't polyurethane it is best to keep it matte. Gloss will enhance visibility of surface imperfections. That may had happened here. But keep up the amazing work! I'm eager to see more of your content, I'm definitely subscribing.
Such a rad little dude!
Awesome design, awesome print, awesome video :) 👍
THIS IS AMAZING. GREAT JOB.
Thank you for this informative video! I am getting into 3d printing my figures at the same time. Could you post a tutorial on how you boolean apart the different pieces? This is the most intimidating to me. I noticed that the legs fit inside the shoes in a natural way. I'd love to see more of your process on that.
I'd imagine youd attempt to keep the hair/hat separated for the next one.
Also a tip, I find bondo glazing putty (it comes in a small tube) to fix printing errors beautifully! Its easier for me than two-part resin clay
With resin printers, I find that a coat of primer actually removes the print layers beautifully, but I end up sanding anyway because I find that on occassion a layer is considerably deep from a printing malfunction. I thought I'd mention it anyway for if you struggle to sand away the layers in tight spots.
you have inspired me
Awesome! More content like this please! Super interested in the art toy world
When I saw "last backup I swear" I laughed out loud. I have a colleague who uses filenames like "new last" "new final last final" "true final last" and so on... 🤣
BTW very nice video! I will share it with a friend interested in bulding toys 😉
Lol, I did that a lot before realizing it would be a lot easier to name them "version #", so, V1, V2, V3... The higher number will always be the most up to date, and you can also use things like "client version" or "review version" (CV# or RV#)... and, if I end up with more than 20 versions, I know I can keep 3 or 4 previous versions for backup and safely delete the rest :]
Super! Even the B-roll is a work of art man! Great work!
Great work, Keelan. I was excited to see this video. It did not disappoint. Im curious to know more about that 3D Printer. It looks awesome.
I really want to start 3D printing :D Thanks for the tips
Amazing process and final result
That's insane. Subbed.
Please note, the curing step after a rinse & dry is not optional! Stay safe :)
very inspiring! love the video and the endresult!
Your work is excellent and inspiring. 🔥
Class Keelan! Mad to see you printing these models now, I can imagine you selling these hand painted models in a stylised shop - would 100% buy one 😎👍
Ay thank you Rhodri! Appreciate you stopping by the channel man, a shop with my own collectables would be a dream 🔥
10:56 never heard of liquid mask oh my god I need that
Mix white glue with dish soap,BAM ,your own liquid masking tape ;)
It looks great!!!! Looking forward for the next ones!!!
Gonna have to try that. Thanks
@@sespiderwork it?
@casiusnina9175
Not tried yet.
Only been 3 days and have no means to order any white glue yet.
Last backup i swear.blend hahahaha
Nice😂❤
Awesome job Keelan! Can you do a course on this? It could be a follow-up to your Blender's Course!
Fantastic work! Incredibly inspiring!!!
Just some CA Glue + baking soda sprinkled on makes an excellent filler for smaller imperfections and holes.
Amazing design man !! Greetings !
nice one keelan! i love the process. Thanks!
Great job
maybe an exacto knife before peeling off the paint? came out great though! ill be subbing to see more of your projects :D
❤❤❤❤ super cool
amazing work!
It came out clean!
Awesome.
This is crazy 🔥🔥🔥!!
Instead of using liquid mask, try using normal blue tack. Youre always going to need to do touch up no matter what you use or how carefully you use it, but might as well use minimal effort for maximum result
good job mate
Awesome vibe, thanks
oh also, if u add a drop of silicone to your paint, it will give it a shine ;]
This is exactly what I was looking for. THE WHOLE PROCESS! Thank you, I really wanted to start my 3D printing journey which the characters I modelled and this video helps see what steps to take and what to be careful and look out for. Great input!
Also, how much time did it take you to print the smaller model? Thats the size I'm going for for my print.
You're very welcome, I'm glad you liked the video :) I think the smaller print took around 4 hours.
great video love your work
"backup NEW NEW" lmfaooooo
Very cool 😎
Water washable resin is still harmful, but you can rinse by water. However, it takes time wash it completely and to let the water dry out before curing, otherwise you can see the resin stains on your masterpiece
Beautiful work! I can't imagine the amount of energy it takes to make such nice videos. I just finished my first 3d printed action figure modeled in Blender. I created the model to print on an fdm without supports so that I'd have no cleanup to do. Turned out great. Funnily enough I printed my figure on an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro and I had a hell of a time. Pretty much done with this printer, and while I can't have a resin printer in my situation I am looking to upgrade/side-grade to a Bambu labs.
Cara bom trabalho 👍🏽
Awesome
I loved it!!!!
Excellent video man!! (but keep the focus, please ;) )
Nice! congrats!
Nice work!👍
Very cool stuff 👏🏼
Good video.
Wow awesome 😮
That is very cool
Can you make an action figure next
DOPE!
Very cool!🔥
awesome video
This lit bro ❤
not so bad ! 😄
This is such an amazing video, I learnt a lot from it thanks! Mind if I ask how much resin costs per print of the model?
Amazing video man, I've been trying to get myself to learn blender to sculpt these kind of stuff, by the way, is this sculpt available for purchase somewhere? I'd love to print myself one for motivation, its a great model haha