I start with bypassing the solenoid on the starter to see if it starts. That then rounds it down drastically. Also as you mentioned the clutch switch on a manual is common. Bypass that by putting a jumper wire from outer wires together. Then if all those failed start testing voltages. Why get dirty if you ain't got to. Makes sense to me.
Why did not you hook up positive clamp of the PP, to the hot starter's post and negative to the little S-post. While you tapping starter by hammer, somebody needed to keep turning key on simultaneously. You can not pass that dead spot in the starter by yourself. Good video clip, with good advice
If your started won't crank it doesn't always mean your starter is bad. Your ground could be bad at the starter. You could give the starter all the voltage possible, it won't do nothing if the ground is bad. Try voltage drop testing. It's very easy to do. It should be .002 on the ground side and .5 at the positive side
@itsmisterchris the easiest way to do voltage drop is to do ground to ground or power to power drop test. Connect your lead to the battery positive and the the next lead positive side of the starter and crank the engine and see what the reading is on the meter. Voltage should not drop more that .5 volts on the positive side or 500 mv. I won't bore you with the math but 1000 mv is equal to 1 volt. On the negative or ground side it shouldn't drop more than 200 mv or .2 of a volt. If you're not familiar with using a multimeter then learn to read it first. There's a big difference between .2 and 2
MT-38 DelcoRemy starters are the most poorly engineered and unreliable starters ever ! Feel for any hot connections on the starter and battery terminals . Also check ground wires between cab / frame rail , starter / frame rail , and negative battery ends to frame rail . Use battery jumper cables to check these grounds . Turn headlamps on , if lights go out while in the ignition start position look for grounding issues . Check battery voltage levels , 12.6 volts is fully charged .
It still might not be a bad starter. DD15's are notorious for shaking the starter connections loose. Also, failure to get voltage at the signal wire doesn't necessarily mean the clutch switch is bad. The temperature sensor on the starter also goes bad sometimes and that will keep the ECM from sending the signal.
I had a truck last night that wouldn't start so I tried to jump the starter over with a switch made for it and the engine would crank but never start even with the key in the on position. Finally it started using the key. I think it's the clutch switch thou.
I have to disagree. In a multiplexed system they can cause catastrophic damage. They are actually banned in out company that services 375,000 trucks nationwide. All you need is a volt ohm meter. Sending incorrect voltage to a module will cause failure. I had one and sold it.
Thanks so much! Tapping the starter worked and got me out of a jam. Nice work!
I start with bypassing the solenoid on the starter to see if it starts. That then rounds it down drastically. Also as you mentioned the clutch switch on a manual is common. Bypass that by putting a jumper wire from outer wires together. Then if all those failed start testing voltages. Why get dirty if you ain't got to. Makes sense to me.
🤗
You saved my life brother! Thanks a lot!
Thank for watching.
Why did not you hook up positive clamp of the PP, to the hot starter's post and negative to the little S-post.
While you tapping starter by hammer, somebody needed to keep turning key on simultaneously. You can not pass that dead spot in the starter by yourself.
Good video clip, with good advice
Not if your by yourself.
Did you follow troubleshooting for hard start / no start first test? Did following troubleshooting lead to test b?
Awesome video!
Thanks a million for the vid brother 🙏
I use a 12 volt horn and two leads for a quick check
Horn wire can be the Path to ground .
Yea sometimes if it doesn't even crank and only clicks you have to basically stand on the clutch.
2013 freightliner Coronado dd15 engine. I got the same problem before and after replacing the starter motor. Intermittent problem. No crank.
If your started won't crank it doesn't always mean your starter is bad. Your ground could be bad at the starter. You could give the starter all the voltage possible, it won't do nothing if the ground is bad. Try voltage drop testing. It's very easy to do. It should be .002 on the ground side and .5 at the positive side
Why not make your video too, just asking, don't mean to hurt
Wish I knew how to do voltage drop.:(
@itsmisterchris the easiest way to do voltage drop is to do ground to ground or power to power drop test. Connect your lead to the battery positive and the the next lead positive side of the starter and crank the engine and see what the reading is on the meter. Voltage should not drop more that .5 volts on the positive side or 500 mv. I won't bore you with the math but 1000 mv is equal to 1 volt. On the negative or ground side it shouldn't drop more than 200 mv or .2 of a volt. If you're not familiar with using a multimeter then learn to read it first. There's a big difference between .2 and 2
Those starters I tell yaw lol wire may be broken from corrosion
MT-38 DelcoRemy starters are the most poorly engineered and unreliable starters ever ! Feel for any hot connections on the starter and battery terminals . Also check ground wires between cab / frame rail , starter / frame rail , and negative battery ends to frame rail . Use battery jumper cables to check these grounds . Turn headlamps on , if lights go out while in the ignition start position look for grounding issues . Check battery voltage levels , 12.6 volts is fully charged .
It still might not be a bad starter. DD15's are notorious for shaking the starter connections loose. Also, failure to get voltage at the signal wire doesn't necessarily mean the clutch switch is bad. The temperature sensor on the starter also goes bad sometimes and that will keep the ECM from sending the signal.
I had a truck last night that wouldn't start so I tried to jump the starter over with a switch made for it and the engine would crank but never start even with the key in the on position. Finally it started using the key. I think it's the clutch switch thou.
Power Probe 3 is one of the best tools a mechanic can have in his box.
I have to disagree. In a multiplexed system they can cause catastrophic damage. They are actually banned in out company that services 375,000 trucks nationwide. All you need is a volt ohm meter. Sending incorrect voltage to a module will cause failure. I had one and sold it.