This has to be one of the best bowl demonstration videos I have ever seen and I have seen hundreds of these things. The reason is that Mike told us WHY he did what he did. Why he picked a particular tool, or method for the job. Congratulations to Mike and I hope to see him a LOT in future videos.
These turning videos of Mikes really are excellent. The content/information, clear communication on why a certain tool was used or how to do a certain thing, the camera angles, the editing and production quality, I'm really grateful for it.
I made one of these and gave it to my wife. She immediately teared up with happy tears and told me that it reminded her of her grandmother's makeup powder dish. Really great project and awesome video. Thank you for all you do!
This was an excellent video on all levels. Mike did a great job to narrate exactly what he was doing and why. Camera work was exceptional. Clear, well focused, and always the proper angle to show exactly what the viewer needs to see. Lighting was excellent as well. My hat is off to Mike. His technique is so understated. He seems to really connect with the level of the person watching. Thanks so much for doing this.
I just wanted to say a HUGE Thank You to Mike Nish!! I have been turning for years now, all self taught by trial and error, but now I understand how to actually use the tools correctly!! Riding the bevel actually means something now! Your explanations and video skills showing how to use and position the tool is outstanding!! Going to be watching a lot of your videos now!!!
Wonderfully clear instructions and demonstrations of the various cuts etc. All parts of the process explained. For a newbie turner like me, this is gold content. 😃
G'Day from Australia! Mike Nish is the BEST EVER presenter!! I find his presentations are clear, concise and detailed enough to be clearly understood and the most helpful!!!! Would love to see lots more!!!! Well done Mike!!!
Hands down one of the best instructional videos out there. Clear explanations and demonstrations of the process, tool techniques and finishing tips. I made my first box like this from Cherry and walnut scraps I had in the wood pile. It turned out pretty good even after I made a few mistakes. Thank you for an awesome video
Awesome video, I like the way the shavings just come right off the wood like ribbons. Tools are very sharp and you demonstrate excellent verbal skills. Keep up the good work 👍
Mike your videos are excellent and much appreciated. After I watch it about 10 more times I might just be able to try it. The different tools mentioned are helpful but are somewhat foreign to me, so I will try to avail myself of them. Thank you.🥲
Mike, this is outstanding in everyway. You are the master! Thank you so much…keep ‘em coming. I’m working on one of these now with spalted birch base and cherry lid.
This is a great video. You make it clear what, why, where and how with all aspects of the work. Also the black background makes it easy to see the thick cloud of fine particulates of saw dust when you explained the importance of using breathing protection. It does cause some concern for for your breathing. Is there not a mick small enough to fit in a respirator? Like they have for motorcycle helmets.
G'Day from Australia! I just rewatched the video for a refresher course on all the technique tips! Then I noticed you're using the wonderful AUSTRALIAN VICMARC chuck!!!! They're a great lathe chuck!!! 🙂
I made one of these when the video first came out to use as a salt cellar. I tend to pour salt out and the recessed rim where the lid rests drives me nuts because the salt gets stuck in there. I've made a few others since then and adjusted how the lid sits on the bowl. A lip under the lid just narrower than the inside diameter of the bowl is my current method. Regardless, its really a lovely project and I appreciate the video that guided me to make them.
Excellent video! A suggestion based on 35 years as a teacher, ALWAYS take the key out of the chuck immediately. Leaving in the chuck key in the chuck until you remove your workpiece is inviting disaster. Follow the same procedure at the drill press.
Mike are you Dale Nishs Grandson? I meet him back in the 90's when I was stationed at Malmstrom in Montana and liked him and his work and one of the reasons why after I was in a bombing in the middle east I taken it up as a hobby. Well done on the box and next do a bird house like he did. :)
I was using the 3/4" Henry Taylor Rounded Edge Skews that I modified the handles on. The grind is also swept back a little farther than from factory. -Mike
Hi Mike -- really good video, the detail is very helpful. Two questions -- I'd like to know more how you grind the side of the box scraper so it is also a cutting edge for the insides of the box? Also, my instincts are to avoid putting an oil finish on top of wax, for fear that it won't adhere. But obviously it works for you?
Hello, a very informative video, which despite its length is not boring for a moment. I started woodturning almost a year ago and was able to learn a lot here. Many thanks for that. I have two questions: 1. how do you sharpen the long edge of the box scraper? 2. what exactly is the finish that you apply and where can you get it? I've already subscribed to your channel. Greetings from Germany Andreas
Thank you for a great demonstration and wonderful presentation of key information. I'm hoping I can ask a question. I was of the belief that a wax-based substance, such as the one applied to the Utility Box could interfere with a subsequent application of a non-wax finish. In this instance, Tried and True was mentioned as the final off-camera finish. Because it was revealed as the finish that would be used, I have to assume that the wax/abrasive that was applied won't affect Tried and True. Would Waterlox Original be safe to use on top of a wax-based product?
Hey Edward, The Tried and True finish I used has wax mixed in with the oil so I wasn't concerned with the polishing wax preventing the finish from penetrating correctly. The scratch free/ Tried and True method is what we prefer and have used it with great success. Waterlox is also a great finish to use, it has enough solvents in it to cut through any wax in the wood fiber. I use Waterlox on the majority of my projects when the weather is warm enough to let the piece cure outdoors. Hopefully this answers your question. -Mike
Wonderful job Mike, have you ever tried "friction polish"? Beautiful finish, nearly instant and food safe! Equal parts boiled linseed oil, denatured alcohol, and shellac. - On a related note, i just made a heavy round nose scraper and I ground a bevel several inches up the left side. I may try some of these small "boxes" -Tyler
Wenn du mit dem Schleifpapier länger in der Mitte schleifst bekommst du einen Berg in der Mitte ..dimple. Die beste Korrektur dessen ist, mit der Hand ca. waagerecht durch die Mitte einige Striche schleifen und dabei mit der Hand das Werkstück schrittweise etwas drehen. Dadurch erfolgt ein verstärkter Antrag genau in der Mitte! 😉
I wear a cap or hat most times I tried it turnimg at first , and removed it it intetfers with my vision while wearimg visor, respirator , or my trend air pro Have you tried wet sanding with paste wax and wet dry paper like Ray Key did ?
I've only returned to woodturning in the last couple of years and now have a true variable speed lathe (50-3200 rpm). What speeds do most of you folks reduce to for sanding?
Wonderful video. I look forward to turning a box! I do have a question: How can Tried and True Original work over the top of the abrasive paste you used (scratch free)? Wouldn't the wax in the Scratch-Free prevent the Linseed oil in the Tried & True from being absorbed into the wood, leaving the surface tacky over time? Why not just use beeswax on top of the abrasive paste? Thank you again for a great video!
Hello Ron, We have tested almost every finish on the market on top of Scratch Freee and have found that only water based finishes are affected. With the Tried and True Original that I used it has beeswax in the formula but still penetrates and cures as expected on top of Scratch-Freee. I have moved away from using beeswax as a finish a while ago as the finish doesn't hold up and look nice long term. -Mike
It is very easy to grind the side of your scraper and adds a lot of versatility. Start with a regular box scraper and grind a 2" section from the tip to the handle with a bevel angle of 80 degrees. We should probably make a short video on how to do it. -Mike
Hey CrackerJack, Reason I wanted to use face grain is just for durability. Had I made this exact box using end-grain orientation it would most likely break if dropped, where as this will be quite durable. I hope that answers your question, If you make a box or two tag us on Instagram, I'd love to see it! -Mike
Hello, I would ove to try to do this type of boxes. I don't have a flat scraper, only a round one. Could you please tell me what model is this? I don't want to make a mistake in buying. Thanks!
We recommend leaving a bit of "slop" in the fitment of the lid to account for wood movement. One other option is re-chucking the lid and turning it down if the movement is excessive.
Here's a link to the wax and finish: woodturnerscatalog.com/products/dr-kirks-scratch-freee-woodturners-polishing-wax?_pos=1&_psq=scratch+fre&_ss=e&_v=1.0 woodturnerscatalog.com/products/tried-and-true-varnish-oil-finish?_pos=1&_sid=1c58d0a0c&_ss=r
There are a number of questions on this video compared to Richard Raffen or Ashley Harwood, etc. Not criticisms, but really want to understand the differences in technique. 1. Why don't you do a push cut on the outside of the bowl using a bevel cut to avoid tearout on doing the outside of the bowl? This often goes faster, gets smoother cuts and does not require as much scraping to finish (sometime none). 2. It appears on the inside that you are using the scraper, which appears to be square cut, at a square angle at the bottom of the bowl. Why are you either not using a negative rake grind or pointing the scraper at a down angle to avoid serious catches? 3. why not use a depth hole to help find the depth of hollowing out? Doing this avoids off and on cycles to check with your pencil gauge. 4. instead of fixing the inside tearout with paste, why not use a bevel cut with a bowl gouge down the side on a push cut in the first place? Scrapers are nice for light cuts to finish, but avoiding the torn grain in the first place is a great time saver. 5. Why are you using a skew chisel to finish the bottom of the bowl? You can cut the nub off with the chisel and a light touch of the scaper to finish the contour. In this case the skew is acting as a scraper (if you have a nice burr on the scraper). Excellent outcome and I like the choice of woods.
Hey Randy, Those are some great questions. 1. A shear scrape on the outside prevents blowing out the unsupported fibers, I try to use push cuts whenever possible but a shear scrape for me worked better on this particular piece. 2. With the scraper I didn't need a negative rake because I'm cutting side grain in the base and the scraper wont be prone to catching like it would if it was an end grain box. 3. A depth hole is a great idea to save time checking depth, It didn't cross my mind to do that during the video. 4. I used a scraper on this piece because the next project we filmed was very similar and on that project I used a gouge to cleanly cut the interior, I wanted to show multiple ways of doing it. 5. I used the skew on the bottom because its more controllable that the standard scraper, also the radius of the skew is much tighter than my scraper so a smaller cutting edge contacts the piece which will be less aggressive and easier to control. Hopefully I've been able to answer your questions clearly, If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask. Thanks! -Mike
This seems to be entirely too many operations, developing a surface and then reworking it! This would make too many opportunities to have an 'accident' with my arthritis, a touch of the tool or a nick. I think a better video would be to do one box entirely with a skew, another with a gouge and maybe another with a carbide metal insert brazed to a square bar. My lathe only has a faceplate and a spur center. Since it is just a cheap harbor freight that i pulled from the scrap pile, it is not very smooth running. This is way too overkill to get anything produced . I qould thi k the added mass of the base wiuld help a spice bowl from getting tipped over but you completely turned the chuck collar ( tenon?) away, only to recut the base. It was good to see how to use the gouges, but I dont have any. Couldnt make them either. Wouldn't trust harbor freight to have tools worth buying. I suppose i could return them if they were junk.
Your knowledge is awesome. But my comment points to safety. You are demonstrating a lot of dangerous habits. The spindle should always be stopped before you adjust the machine.
This has to be one of the best bowl demonstration videos I have ever seen and I have seen hundreds of these things. The reason is that Mike told us WHY he did what he did. Why he picked a particular tool, or method for the job. Congratulations to Mike and I hope to see him a LOT in future videos.
I agree!
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for watching the video, take care! -Mike
😢y😢😢y😢 you y to my😢😢😢😢😅😮😅😢
😢y😢😢y😢 you y to my😢😢😢😢😅😮😅😢
These turning videos of Mikes really are excellent. The content/information, clear communication on why a certain tool was used or how to do a certain thing, the camera angles, the editing and production quality, I'm really grateful for it.
Thanks. You are among the very best of woodturning channels.
Thank you for watching!
Mike is a great instructor. Very thorough. He explains his process very well. Best videos I've seen!
I made one of these and gave it to my wife. She immediately teared up with happy tears and told me that it reminded her of her grandmother's makeup powder dish. Really great project and awesome video. Thank you for all you do!
Wow, that is great to hear! Thank you for watching! 😊 -Mike
By far the best tutorial in general on wood turning I've seen. Well done, Mike.
This was an excellent video on all levels. Mike did a great job to narrate exactly what he was doing and why. Camera work was exceptional. Clear, well focused, and always the proper angle to show exactly what the viewer needs to see. Lighting was excellent as well. My hat is off to Mike. His technique is so understated. He seems to really connect with the level of the person watching. Thanks so much for doing this.
Very instructional. The camera angles provided what I needed to see on angle of the tool when doing the interior. Thank you for a great job.
agree with the other comments - Mike is one of the best instructors I have watched - looking to more!
I have watched this video twice to learn more . Nicely
I am from the UK and think these demonstrations are as good as I have seen. They are very instructive and easy to understand, More please
Outstanding demonstration by a knowledgeable woodturner and excellent video editing. Thank you.
The explanation of use of tools is outstanding. One of the best instructional videos I have ever seen.
I just wanted to say a HUGE Thank You to Mike Nish!! I have been turning for years now, all self taught by trial and error, but now I understand how to actually use the tools correctly!! Riding the bevel actually means something now! Your explanations and video skills showing how to use and position the tool is outstanding!! Going to be watching a lot of your videos now!!!
Wonderfully clear instructions and demonstrations of the various cuts etc. All parts of the process explained. For a newbie turner like me, this is gold content. 😃
Great lesson!!
A fantastic demonstration, I have been turning for a while and I just learned a lot in just a few minutes with his clear explanations.
G'Day from Australia! Mike Nish is the BEST EVER presenter!! I find his presentations are clear, concise and detailed enough to be clearly understood and the most helpful!!!! Would love to see lots more!!!! Well done Mike!!!
Hey Alan,
I'm glad you liked the video! If you turn a utility box, tag us on Instagram I'd love to see it! -Mike
Best narrated turning video I've ever seen! Thanks. Keep them coming.
Absolutely brilliant demo ! Loved it. Thank you .
One of the best instructional videos I’ve ever seen, great job 👏
Thanks so much for doing these thorough videos! Love how you focus on the important nuances of the craft that most tend to omit. Much appreciated!
Wow; this is the quintessential instructional video. Thank you, Mike.
Thanks Joey!
Have fun in the shop! -Mike
I love the walnut with the maple... I'm going to have to make some of these for the wife. Thanks Mike love the time you put into making these videos.
Hey Paul,
Glad you enjoyed the video! Tag us on Instagram when you finish your boxes I'd love to see them! -Mike
Hands down one of the best instructional videos out there. Clear explanations and demonstrations of the process, tool techniques and finishing tips. I made my first box like this from Cherry and walnut scraps I had in the wood pile. It turned out pretty good even after I made a few mistakes. Thank you for an awesome video
Awesome video, I like the way the shavings just come right off the wood like ribbons. Tools are very sharp and you demonstrate excellent verbal skills. Keep up the good work 👍
Thank you very much!
Mike your videos are excellent and much appreciated. After I watch it about 10 more times I might just be able to try it. The different tools mentioned are helpful but are somewhat foreign to me, so I will try to avail myself of them. Thank you.🥲
You did a great job on your Bowl keep up the good work 😊
Nice to see Mike at the lathe again. Great project and a good way to work on sizing tenons properly.
I really enjoy these type of videos
Thank you for watching! 😊
Mike, this is outstanding in everyway. You are the master! Thank you so much…keep ‘em coming. I’m working on one of these now with spalted birch base and cherry lid.
Hey Michael,
Thank you for the kind words! When you finish your utility boxes, tag us on Instagram. I'd love to see them! -Mike
having never done this yet i appreciate the detail you put in on tool placement it is awesome keep up the good work
This is a great video. You make it clear what, why, where and how with all aspects of the work. Also the black background makes it easy to see the thick cloud of fine particulates of saw dust when you explained the importance of using breathing protection. It does cause some concern for for your breathing. Is there not a mick small enough to fit in a respirator? Like they have for motorcycle helmets.
G'Day from Australia! I just rewatched the video for a refresher course on all the technique tips! Then I noticed you're using the wonderful AUSTRALIAN VICMARC chuck!!!! They're a great lathe chuck!!! 🙂
Great Video. Regards from a German turner.
Thank you for the quality of your demonstration and video .
Thank you so much for your instructional commentary during this project. You answered so many of my questions.
Glad it was helpful!
Absolutely wonderful video. I learned so much. Thank you thank you. ⭐️🏆⭐️
Superb and concise demonstration - very helpful - many thanks !
Truly appreciate such an informative video. Takes all the guess work out for us newbie turner's. Thanks a lot
Thank you for watching! -Mike 😊
Great video! Very instructive as always.
Well done. I really enjoy these demonstrations.
Mike you talk perfec about the instrucción to do the job perfect I wich toser you again is great job thanks. I go to do like you do.
I made one of these when the video first came out to use as a salt cellar. I tend to pour salt out and the recessed rim where the lid rests drives me nuts because the salt gets stuck in there. I've made a few others since then and adjusted how the lid sits on the bowl. A lip under the lid just narrower than the inside diameter of the bowl is my current method. Regardless, its really a lovely project and I appreciate the video that guided me to make them.
How do you put a cutting edge on the side of the box scraper? Excellent video. Learned a ton. Made my own version this morning.
Great instructional video. Love the perfectionism 😮
Very good, the best I have seen. Learned lots. Thank You.👍
really nice video :) Im gonna start a craft my first box soon. so this was really helpful! thanks alot
Hope they have a fan going behind you to get rid of the dust? Great video and you present the subject well.
Regards from Australia.
Hey Kevin,
Fortunately we have a dust collector running off screen. Hopefully you found the video helpful. Take Care! -Mike
Could you please clarify the live center extension you are using? Thank you for a concise and thorough instruction!
The revolving center I used was the one that came with the Powermatic 3520C. -Mike
Excellent video! A suggestion based on 35 years as a teacher, ALWAYS take the key out of the chuck immediately.
Leaving in the chuck key in the chuck until you remove your workpiece is inviting disaster. Follow the same procedure at the drill press.
beautiful footage!
Very good instructions for us beginners
Excellent presentation!
Might a box with a base wider than the mouth be an advantage for a spice box? Thank you for the close in vjew of tool uxe opeming the bowl
Mike are you Dale Nishs Grandson? I meet him back in the 90's when I was stationed at Malmstrom in Montana and liked him and his work and one of the reasons why after I was in a bombing in the middle east I taken it up as a hobby.
Well done on the box and next do a bird house like he did. :)
Great demonstration.
Amazing instruction. Well done and thank you
Can you tell me the two different skews you were using? Are they available as shown or are they custom gring?
I was using the 3/4" Henry Taylor Rounded Edge Skews that I modified the handles on. The grind is also swept back a little farther than from factory. -Mike
@@CraftSuppliesUSA thanks for the info.
Hi Mike -- really good video, the detail is very helpful. Two questions -- I'd like to know more how you grind the side of the box scraper so it is also a cutting edge for the insides of the box? Also, my instincts are to avoid putting an oil finish on top of wax, for fear that it won't adhere. But obviously it works for you?
Hello, a very informative video, which despite its length is not boring for a moment. I started woodturning almost a year ago and was able to learn a lot here. Many thanks for that. I have two questions: 1. how do you sharpen the long edge of the box scraper? 2. what exactly is the finish that you apply and where can you get it?
I've already subscribed to your channel.
Greetings from Germany
Andreas
Thank you for a great demonstration and wonderful presentation of key information.
I'm hoping I can ask a question. I was of the belief that a wax-based substance, such as the one applied to the Utility Box could interfere with a subsequent application of a non-wax finish. In this instance, Tried and True was mentioned as the final off-camera finish.
Because it was revealed as the finish that would be used, I have to assume that the wax/abrasive that was applied won't affect Tried and True. Would Waterlox Original be safe to use on top of a wax-based product?
Hey Edward,
The Tried and True finish I used has wax mixed in with the oil so I wasn't concerned with the polishing wax preventing the finish from penetrating correctly. The scratch free/ Tried and True method is what we prefer and have used it with great success. Waterlox is also a great finish to use, it has enough solvents in it to cut through any wax in the wood fiber. I use Waterlox on the majority of my projects when the weather is warm enough to let the piece cure outdoors. Hopefully this answers your question. -Mike
Very informative. I enjoyed it. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'm new to turning and wonder why wouldn't you use most of the tenon to form the foot rather than losing that amount of material?
Wonderful job Mike, have you ever tried "friction polish"? Beautiful finish, nearly instant and food safe! Equal parts boiled linseed oil, denatured alcohol, and shellac. - On a related note, i just made a heavy round nose scraper and I ground a bevel several inches up the left side. I may try some of these small "boxes" -Tyler
Thank you for watching the video! I use friction polish quite regularly, its a lovely finish and smells good too! -Mike
Wenn du mit dem Schleifpapier länger in der Mitte schleifst bekommst du einen Berg in der Mitte ..dimple.
Die beste Korrektur dessen ist, mit der Hand ca. waagerecht durch die Mitte einige Striche schleifen und dabei mit der Hand das Werkstück schrittweise etwas drehen. Dadurch erfolgt ein verstärkter Antrag genau in der Mitte! 😉
Belas pecas, grande habilidade, qul é o modelo emarca do torno por favor.
I wear a cap or hat most times
I tried it turnimg at first , and removed it it intetfers with my vision while wearimg visor, respirator , or my trend air pro
Have you tried wet sanding with paste wax and wet dry paper like Ray Key did ?
I've only returned to woodturning in the last couple of years and now have a true variable speed lathe (50-3200 rpm).
What speeds do most of you folks reduce to for sanding?
500 rpm is a good all round sanding speed.
@@CraftSuppliesUSA thank you.
Merci très instructif 👍
Thank you! 😊
Great video. What bowl gouge are you using? Researching to get my first one.
I was using the 1/2" M42 Stay Sharp Gouge. Here's a link: www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/129/6894/henry-taylor-M42-Stay-Sharp-Bowl-Gouge
Wonderful video. I look forward to turning a box! I do have a question: How can Tried and True Original work over the top of the abrasive paste you used (scratch free)? Wouldn't the wax in the Scratch-Free prevent the Linseed oil in the Tried & True from being absorbed into the wood, leaving the surface tacky over time? Why not just use beeswax on top of the abrasive paste? Thank you again for a great video!
I had the same question. Hope we get an answer. (Btw, great video)
Hello Ron,
We have tested almost every finish on the market on top of Scratch Freee and have found that only water based finishes are affected. With the Tried and True Original that I used it has beeswax in the formula but still penetrates and cures as expected on top of Scratch-Freee. I have moved away from using beeswax as a finish a while ago as the finish doesn't hold up and look nice long term. -Mike
I’ve never seen a scraper that also cuts on one side. I think you said you made it ?
It is very easy to grind the side of your scraper and adds a lot of versatility. Start with a regular box scraper and grind a 2" section from the tip to the handle with a bevel angle of 80 degrees. We should probably make a short video on how to do it. -Mike
i enjoyed a LOT what was the name of that sanding cloth
Here's a link to the sandpaper: www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/18/5846/abranet-Sanding-Screen-7-Sheet-Variety-Pack
Thanks Mike. Why do you make a point of using face grain? Is this just for your demonstration or is there a reason for not using end grain?
Hey CrackerJack,
Reason I wanted to use face grain is just for durability. Had I made this exact box using end-grain orientation it would most likely break if dropped, where as this will be quite durable. I hope that answers your question, If you make a box or two tag us on Instagram, I'd love to see it! -Mike
Very good video, thanks for making it. I note you say "I'll go ahead and..." a lot. Why do you say that, does it add some meaning?
I have realized I say that a lot, I think it is a subconscious replacement for "um". I working on it. -Mike 😊
Hello, I would ove to try to do this type of boxes. I don't have a flat scraper, only a round one. Could you please tell me what model is this? I don't want to make a mistake in buying. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing. Good info.
This video is very helpful
Thank you for watching!😊
Mike, would you recommend against trying this with a green blank?
I'd stay away from doing this with green wood as it will warp too much. -Mike
Slow watch but very informative stuff. Thanks
UA-cam gives you the option to increase the playback speed up to 2 times normal speed.
Did you get the picture of my curly mango platter?
I didn't see any. DM us on Instagram or email to support@woodturnerscatalog.com I'd love to see them!
So what happens when the wood moves and the lid no longer fits as surly it will.
We recommend leaving a bit of "slop" in the fitment of the lid to account for wood movement. One other option is re-chucking the lid and turning it down if the movement is excessive.
What kind of wax and finish.
Here's a link to the wax and finish:
woodturnerscatalog.com/products/dr-kirks-scratch-freee-woodturners-polishing-wax?_pos=1&_psq=scratch+fre&_ss=e&_v=1.0
woodturnerscatalog.com/products/tried-and-true-varnish-oil-finish?_pos=1&_sid=1c58d0a0c&_ss=r
what is this "scratch free" stuff you are using?
It is an all natural abrasive paste. Here's a link: www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/17/5652/dr.-kirks-Scratch-FREEE-Woodturners-Polishing-Wax
I’m curious as to how you’d sell these dishes for given the material and time? Seems you’d need to get around $79 for em 😮 not sure you could ?
WHAT KIND OF LATHE IS THAT?
It is a Powermatic 3520C.
A bit long, but very detailed, nice job!!!
There are a number of questions on this video compared to Richard Raffen or Ashley Harwood, etc. Not criticisms, but really want to understand the differences in technique. 1. Why don't you do a push cut on the outside of the bowl using a bevel cut to avoid tearout on doing the outside of the bowl? This often goes faster, gets smoother cuts and does not require as much scraping to finish (sometime none). 2. It appears on the inside that you are using the scraper, which appears to be square cut, at a square angle at the bottom of the bowl. Why are you either not using a negative rake grind or pointing the scraper at a down angle to avoid serious catches? 3. why not use a depth hole to help find the depth of hollowing out? Doing this avoids off and on cycles to check with your pencil gauge. 4. instead of fixing the inside tearout with paste, why not use a bevel cut with a bowl gouge down the side on a push cut in the first place? Scrapers are nice for light cuts to finish, but avoiding the torn grain in the first place is a great time saver. 5. Why are you using a skew chisel to finish the bottom of the bowl? You can cut the nub off with the chisel and a light touch of the scaper to finish the contour. In this case the skew is acting as a scraper (if you have a nice burr on the scraper). Excellent outcome and I like the choice of woods.
Hey Randy,
Those are some great questions. 1. A shear scrape on the outside prevents blowing out the unsupported fibers, I try to use push cuts whenever possible but a shear scrape for me worked better on this particular piece. 2. With the scraper I didn't need a negative rake because I'm cutting side grain in the base and the scraper wont be prone to catching like it would if it was an end grain box. 3. A depth hole is a great idea to save time checking depth, It didn't cross my mind to do that during the video. 4. I used a scraper on this piece because the next project we filmed was very similar and on that project I used a gouge to cleanly cut the interior, I wanted to show multiple ways of doing it. 5. I used the skew on the bottom because its more controllable that the standard scraper, also the radius of the skew is much tighter than my scraper so a smaller cutting edge contacts the piece which will be less aggressive and easier to control. Hopefully I've been able to answer your questions clearly, If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask. Thanks! -Mike
Great video but too many commercials
Gotta try that. Am I the only one that noticed the cockroach? 20 min mark.
I had a sunflower seed and some shavings in there. I need to keep that lid on! 😊 -Mike
😎
This seems to be entirely too many operations, developing a surface and then reworking it! This would make too many opportunities to have an 'accident' with my arthritis, a touch of the tool or a nick. I think a better video would be to do one box entirely with a skew, another with a gouge and maybe another with a carbide metal insert brazed to a square bar. My lathe only has a faceplate and a spur center. Since it is just a cheap harbor freight that i pulled from the scrap pile, it is not very smooth running. This is way too overkill to get anything produced . I qould thi k the added mass of the base wiuld help a spice bowl from getting tipped over but you completely turned the chuck collar ( tenon?) away, only to recut the base. It was good to see how to use the gouges, but I dont have any. Couldnt make them either. Wouldn't trust harbor freight to have tools worth buying. I suppose i could return them if they were junk.
Your knowledge is awesome. But my comment points to safety. You are demonstrating a lot of dangerous habits. The spindle should always be stopped before you adjust the machine.
An 80-minute video could be helped by using more editing and/or speeding up some parts.
I'd rather hear a dust collector rather than you constantly blowing all the time.
To many blows, to many Publicities and some dangerous movements during a running lathe… take care about the dust
Inefficient waste wood and time!
It's possible to turn lid, and bowl from one piece.
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It looks like a big bug in the wax. A bad distraction from the demonstration.
Too many "go aheads" arrgh.
😂 Go ahead and hit that subscribe button while you're here! -Mike
Thanks for doing such great job on the bowls 🥣 I appreciate that.