Hi Jennifer, in order for your stain to take and be uniform it’s important to be down to the bare wood. That said, it’s extremely difficult to get there by sanding. You really need to chemically remove the finish which is not fun but in the end will expedite the process. To put it in perspective the piano in the video took 150 hours to complete. Hope this helps. Brent
Thanks for sharing wich polish did u use? Or can u give me any tips on how to polish and with what product? My piano has alkyd based paint on it. Thanks
Question. I'm not painting my piano with paint just changing the color to ebony with wood stain. Do I have to sand until it is just the bare wood or just enough where the gloss comes off?
@@MARTIN201199stain won’t grab where there’s clear. If you strip you run the risk of ruining the veneer. Probably cheaper to sell it and buy one you like.
I purchased a baby Grand that was in good shape but the Cabinet was very cracked up and in Very bad shape. First thing we striped it down to the Veneer but even at that point things did not look well. Finally we decided to remove the outer layer of Veneer for so many reasons. Blisters cracks and more. The outer layer of the veneer was replaced with Maple Veneer and all went well. As it was looking really good the veneer was primed and a base coat of Black Pre cat Lacquer was applied (2 coats). Now that 4 coats of clear Pre cat Gloss was applied and complete and all looked great we opened up the garage for some fresh air and sun light. I was shocked to see ripples and bumps in the finish from the veneer. I knew at this point I made a major Boo Boo ! When I applied the vineer the under surface was not perfectly flat and now that is what is showing.. I know I am back to sanding and painting but I need advise how to level this. I would like some serious constructive advice Please. Thanks in advance !
Sampler One Hi, well there is just so much that needs addressed. For one, using precat lacquer is not a good choice . Precat will fail when applying the number of coats you used. I use catalyzed polyurethane as a primer, you can load and sand the daylights out of it.Topcoat I use straight nitro cellulose lacquer, usually 3 coats scuffed between coats. I would be happy to discuss further if you want to call the shop. My # is 717-866-2662 Thanks, Brent
You have to start all over. Strip off the veneer you applied wrong and sand everything smooth and lay new veneer down. Then an apply a 1 thick black coat. Your going to black sand the first coat then apply 2 more black coats blocking the finish in between. Then lay a final 4th coat which will be block sanded before your first of 3 layers of cleared each being sanded in between. Make sure you have plenty of lighting to view your progress. Then polish it at the end.
Hi, Yes, the rubbing process is old school. We use 3 coats of gloss lacquer, that`s after all the priming and sanding. We start rubbing with 800 grit and oil and go to 1000 grit ,all blocked and straight lines. We finish with 00000 steel wool and lube. This creates a beautiful satin finish. Hope this helps, Brent Sr. ,
That's great restoration work. I hope the owner of the piano will protect and maintain the product of your hard work.
Hi Jennifer, in order for your stain to take and be uniform it’s important to be down to the bare wood. That said, it’s extremely difficult to get there by sanding. You really need to chemically remove the finish which is not fun but in the end will expedite the process. To put it in perspective the piano in the video took 150 hours to complete. Hope this helps. Brent
What type of stain did you use?
Can you tell me what brand of ebony lacquer you use? Pre-cat?
Thanks for sharing wich polish did u use? Or can u give me any tips on how to polish and with what product? My piano has alkyd based paint on it. Thanks
Not possible to get the old name logo?
Question. I'm not painting my piano with paint just changing the color to ebony with wood stain. Do I have to sand until it is just the bare wood or just enough where the gloss comes off?
J V you can use paint striper instead and then sand it
@@MARTIN201199stain won’t grab where there’s clear. If you strip you run the risk of ruining the veneer. Probably cheaper to sell it and buy one you like.
Sure, i use Mohawk rub cut oil and mohawk flat lube. I think you need to be more aggressive then compound. I would start with the oil and 800 grit.
Wow!
How much is it to do a complete color change to glossy white on a baby grand?
Probably as much to sell yours and buy a white one.
I purchased a baby Grand that was in good shape but the Cabinet was very cracked up and in Very bad shape.
First thing we striped it down to the Veneer but even at that point things did not look well. Finally we decided to remove the outer layer of Veneer for so many reasons. Blisters cracks and more. The outer layer of the veneer was replaced with Maple Veneer and all went well. As it was looking really good the veneer was primed and a base coat of Black Pre cat Lacquer was applied (2 coats). Now that 4 coats of clear Pre cat Gloss was applied and complete and all looked great we opened up the garage for some fresh air and sun light.
I was shocked to see ripples and bumps in the finish from the veneer. I knew at this point I made a major Boo Boo ! When I applied the vineer the under surface was not perfectly flat and now that is what is showing..
I know I am back to sanding and painting but I need advise how to level this. I would like some serious constructive advice Please.
Thanks in advance !
Sampler One
Hi, well there is just so much that needs addressed. For one, using precat lacquer is not a good choice . Precat will fail when applying the number of coats you used. I use catalyzed polyurethane as a primer, you can load and sand the daylights out of it.Topcoat I use straight nitro cellulose lacquer, usually 3 coats scuffed between coats. I would be happy to discuss further if you want to call the shop.
My # is 717-866-2662
Thanks,
Brent
You have to start all over. Strip off the veneer you applied wrong and sand everything smooth and lay new veneer down. Then an apply a 1 thick black coat. Your going to black sand the first coat then apply 2 more black coats blocking the finish in between. Then lay a final 4th coat which will be block sanded before your first of 3 layers of cleared each being sanded in between. Make sure you have plenty of lighting to view your progress. Then polish it at the end.
Is this finish cause by rubbing the gloss coat in one direction? I like it, want rub my piano gloss to this kind sheen.
Hi, Yes, the rubbing process is old school. We use 3 coats of gloss lacquer, that`s after all the priming and sanding. We start rubbing with 800 grit and oil and go to 1000 grit ,all blocked and straight lines. We finish with 00000 steel wool and lube. This creates a beautiful satin finish.
Hope this helps,
Brent Sr.
,
@@handmadehomedecor thank you so much, may I ask what kind oil and lub are used during rubbing, I was thinking using rubbing compound.
@@jlai3861they use a special oil. And procedure for this finish. Be careful because you have to follow the grain carefully.
That's a awful lot of work for a satin finish. I've been considering "wrapping " my old Joanna. Thanks.
Hey what is this sticker
Not a lot of restoration showing!