I modified the tool before using it! I machined one end square so a adjustable wrench could hold the threaded rod stationary while turning the extraction nut . Have borrowed it out half dozen times to friends, still working like a charm!!!
Video is awesome. Thanks! Do you know if this actually fixes the vibration/wobble that people report at 50-60mph? I’ve seen the install but no one ever follows up with a report back on wether it fixed that or not.
I have heard of people saying that it does and others that it doesn’t. For the ones that say it doesn’t I think they have other issues going on like tires not balanced correctly. I think of it just like when a washing machine has too many cloths on one side and it goes out of balance. The front cv will have play when the needle bearing wears out and so the cv is just like the cloths.
@@EvergreenOffroad thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I have a ‘21 with only 3200 miles but I have a good friend who has a 2010 with the vibration. I’ve recommended he watch your video and install the bushing. Thanks again for the awesome video
I’m honestly not sure what size it was. Give me a couple of hrs and I’ll measure it. I think I got it at auto zone or harbor freight. It’s far better than using a pickle fork.
I just finished the replacement. I ordered the tool & bushing about 6 weeks ago and I didn't have to mod anything. Worked like a charm.@@EvergreenOffroad
Is this the same for a 97 t100 I'm having a snaping issue when moving in 2wd coming from passenger side mine are half shafts but I'm assuming there close to the same
Can I use a slide hammer to take out the needle bearing and save money from having to buy their tool? There are a few extras options to buy on the ecgs site... which ones will I need to buy? ADD BUSHING DRIVER ONLY+$30.00 ADD BUSHING AND SEAL INSTALLER+$45.00 ADD BRG/RACE DRIVER+$44.95 ADD CV AXLE SEAL+$22.00 Lastly, any grease it liquids that I will need to use or refill with? Thank you for your response!
I wonder what are the symptoms of a bad needle bearing, I cannot feel any grinding noise or vibration but I have some play on both axle shafts. I've found many videos showing how to replace the bearing but none showing the before and after movement. Is that problem just relevant to the drivers side bushing even if there is some play on the passenger too?
East Coast Gear Supply has two videos linked on this product. One is the install and the other shows the before & after play in the axle. That's what convinced me to give it a shot. Here's the link. The bushing takes the play down from 50 mil to 5 mil. :O ua-cam.com/video/BOvoM5irtEc/v-deo.html
I have a 2016, did this fix right away because they didn't have a TSB out until almost 3 years later. Just before warranty expired, the TSB came out, they replaced the front differential and it went away until the vibration/drone just started back, almost 3 years later. Shoulda just left it be after doing the bushing install because now I gotta do it again lol
Literally just put a 3in lift on my 2014 Tacoma and now the Diff is leaking and a new axle and seal did not stop It from leaking. The axle has a lot of movement in It so I wonder if this part would fix my leak and movement without having to buy a brand new front diff?
My 2020 SR5 4runner just started making that droning noise this morning. Looks like this bearing replacement might be in my future soon. This is an excellent video. Any chance you might post a video on how to remove and replace the CV joints? Thanks!
Yes at some point. A angled pry bar with a end that looks like a flathead screwdriver is what I used. There are notches on the cv that I held that against and used a dead blow hammer to get it out.
It’s not so much that the lift adds tension but it puts the cv at a different angle than being perfectly in line horizontally with the axle housing and the cv axle. In all reality Toyota should be doing a recall on this but they refuse because it doesn’t cause anything that they would call a catastrophic failure.
This is great! Just replaced the seal after noticing a leak. Fluid is still leaking and the cv axle has a lot of play, assuming this might be the reason. Any other thoughts on why the CV Axle would have play and be leaking (this is a new cv axle, passenger side does not have this issue)? Going to do this tomorrow. Thanks for your time making this video.
I believe I may have this issue on my 2016 4Runner with 3.5” Icon Stage 7 lift and 4.88 Yukon gears. Will these parts work with my truck? I assume so. Great job guys! This clunk has been driving me nuts and nothing else is wrong.
I'm just learning about this after throwing in the towel and living with the problem. Been living with this for 60k miles. This sounds like a class action lawsuit to me, is there one? Excited to know I can finally get rid of this annoyance. A guy in the Facebook 4Runner group said to put the truck in 4WD on a nice straight away and see if it goes away, and it did! After that he said to search "needle bearing 4Runner". I find it hard to believe all Toyota service centers don't know about this.
They are absolutely aware of it, the only fix they are doing is replacing the whole front differential. The only issue is that it does not fix the issue. It’s going to happen again.
I have a 2009 TRD access cab with a wedge camper. The suspension is stock. The truck has sagged an inch or two. I was going to get 5100s and airbags to get the suspension back to ~ normal. I done need or want a lift. Should I do the bearing replacement just to be safe? Thanks
They all get the noise once lifted. My 2015 and 2020 have had the noise on the drivers side. If it’s in warranty take the tech for a ride and put it in and out of 4 wheel drive to hear the noise difference. Don’t use this if it’s still under warranty. If you have other issues with the front end and they find it….
I agree that if you are not able to 100% diagnose that this is the issue and or still under warranty it’s best to have it looked at by a professional. The one issue I have heard is that even when Toyota does warranty it they replace the whole front differential and it will have the same issue over time with the needle bearing. If you have a backup vehicle it’s not a big deal but otherwise it becomes a pain dealing with Toyota having the vehicle for long periods of time.
Do you have the OEM part number for the seal? Also do you know if the driver's side axle seal is different from the passenger side? Doing this job and want to make sure I get the right one.
Perfect. Thanks so much. Got the needle bearing out yesterday. Funny--the extraction tool I bought from ECGS had some issues with the threads. Had to use a tap and die on it to get it to work smoothly, The ECGS bushing is in the freezer--going to do the bushing and seal tomorrow. Cheers! @@EvergreenOffroad
Really appreciate it!, I was really hesitant on not recording during the day but I think it actually helped focus the attention directly on the work being done.
@@EvergreenOffroad The additional light helped better see everything and a better idea of the work that you were doing. I'm getting ready to have this done soon as well but figure when I have my gears installed it might be the ideal time to have them do it. I don't mind doing the work but I'm not about to mess with gears personally.
Oh I absolutely agree, I will do something like this myself but gears are a whole different thing. They could easily do this when you have the gears done.
So if I have play in my passenger side (T100) would that be the same issue but also includes the tube bearing that may need replacement? Trying to decide on parts to order and kinda want to do both sides...
Yes it did. I’ve done this same thing on five friends vehicles now. Some had issues beforehand of noise and or vibration issues. All resolved after doing this.
That’s awesome. I’ve been experiencing a groan between 40 - 60 mph on my 2018 SR5 Prem 4wd w 3” lift…sounded like the rear differential. Found a TSB on it…T-SB-0074-19. I swapped the rear differential with a 2020 diff. Still some noise at 40-50 mph.
@@peterlee1299 that groan noise was the same for my buddy that has a TRD PRO with only 15,000 miles. The ecgs stopped that noise. Keep me updated if you do the ecgs and if it helps, I bet it will.
Ok, call me stupid but how does the new solid “bushing” function as it lacks needle bearings? I know it does work but with tighter clearances and what I’d assume would be less oiling, I just don’t get it. Like I said, I might be stupid.
@@EvergreenOffroad Thanks, I just ordered the parts for my truck even though it has not started having an issue yet but I know my lift isn’t doing the bearing any favors. And yours is probably the 4th video on the replacement I’ve watched-learn something different each video it seems. Thanks again.
So I'm not an engineer or mechanic. I'm just a rando. I too was puzzled by this. Here's briefly what I was able to learn: In some applications, needle bearings are superior. They offer lower resistance, easier rotation. They are also lower friction than bushings, and have lower lubrication demands. All else equal, needle bearings are better than bushings in many applications. Where needle bearings struggle is at the edges of performance or with very high loads. Because of the lower contact area, pressures on any individual needle piece in the needle bearing can be astronomically high. So as this CV articulates, it will have some degree of movement and extremes of pressure. When high loads are placed on a tiny needle bearing, the failures can be catastrophic. Needle bearings can fail gracefully, or they can fail catastrophically where the needle rollers fall into rotating components (like the front diff). Because they are hardened, they will absolutely wreck gears. I don't think this happens in situations like the video, especially since the splines of the CV are engaged and fit tightly. But it could happen in engines. Or maybe during an unfortunate removal gone wrong. I suppose fully inspecting the needle bearing to ensure all pieces of it are intact is warranted. I know it is common with speciality engine builders to replace needle bearings with bushings for this exact reason. In racing engines, needle bearings are still used because the engine is rebuilt on a regular basis (like every race in some cases) but when you have a high output diesel doing towing, downtime costs you a lot of money so bushings are more commonly used for longevity. In a situation where there are high pressures, the bushing will provide a much larger surface area to distribute the loads. It will, as a consequence, generate more heat and friction as a result. Neither the needle bearing nor the bushing will ever be a permanent fix, as these ultimately are wear components that need to be replaced. So you will still be replacing bushings, but perhaps not as frequently as needle bearings in situations like the CV axle. I would caution people doing this to ensure they can remove their fill plug first, before touching anything, since you need to refill the fluid that dribbled out if this is done with the case drained.
Man this is great! Thanks for the video! You’ve earned a subscriber today my good sir
Really appreciate it!
I did this install today. When installing the new bushing, I used a 4' pipe and the bushing tool so I could hammer unimpeded
I modified the tool before using it! I machined one end square so a adjustable wrench could hold the threaded rod stationary while turning the extraction nut . Have borrowed it out half dozen times to friends, still working like a charm!!!
Great video! It will be a huge help to so many people! The tell-tale drone/vibration has not started on mine but now I know what to do when it does!
If you ever need to do it you are welcome to use the tools I got to do it.
Video is awesome. Thanks!
Do you know if this actually fixes the vibration/wobble that people report at 50-60mph? I’ve seen the install but no one ever follows up with a report back on wether it fixed that or not.
I have heard of people saying that it does and others that it doesn’t. For the ones that say it doesn’t I think they have other issues going on like tires not balanced correctly.
I think of it just like when a washing machine has too many cloths on one side and it goes out of balance.
The front cv will have play when the needle bearing wears out and so the cv is just like the cloths.
@@EvergreenOffroad thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I have a ‘21 with only 3200 miles but I have a good friend who has a 2010 with the vibration. I’ve recommended he watch your video and install the bushing. Thanks again for the awesome video
Hi. I really appreciate you for making this video. What size of tie rod and pitman arm puller did you use for this job? Thanks in advance.
I’m honestly not sure what size it was. Give me a couple of hrs and I’ll measure it. I think I got it at auto zone or harbor freight.
It’s far better than using a pickle fork.
Im surprised that East Coast has not fixed the removal tool. I did my needle bearing 2.5 years ago, and had to modify the tool back then also.
Ya I wonder if some of them have more space to where it drops in. I slowly removed a little bit of material and kept testing it until it worked.
I just finished the replacement. I ordered the tool & bushing about 6 weeks ago and I didn't have to mod anything. Worked like a charm.@@EvergreenOffroad
@@homerjonze263 appreciate the update, glad it worked
Is this the same for a 97 t100 I'm having a snaping issue when moving in 2wd coming from passenger side mine are half shafts but I'm assuming there close to the same
Can I use a slide hammer to take out the needle bearing and save money from having to buy their tool? There are a few extras options to buy on the ecgs site... which ones will I need to buy?
ADD BUSHING DRIVER ONLY+$30.00
ADD BUSHING AND SEAL INSTALLER+$45.00
ADD BRG/RACE DRIVER+$44.95
ADD CV AXLE SEAL+$22.00
Lastly, any grease it liquids that I will need to use or refill with?
Thank you for your response!
Replied to your comment on Facebook.
@@EvergreenOffroad needing this reply lol.
Nice video!
@@jorgecordova6133 you need the bushing and seal driver and the cv axle seal
I wonder what are the symptoms of a bad needle bearing, I cannot feel any grinding noise or vibration but I have some play on both axle shafts. I've found many videos showing how to replace the bearing but none showing the before and after movement. Is that problem just relevant to the drivers side bushing even if there is some play on the passenger too?
Correct this bearing is only on the drivers side
East Coast Gear Supply has two videos linked on this product. One is the install and the other shows the before & after play in the axle. That's what convinced me to give it a shot. Here's the link. The bushing takes the play down from 50 mil to 5 mil. :O ua-cam.com/video/BOvoM5irtEc/v-deo.html
I have a 2016, did this fix right away because they didn't have a TSB out until almost 3 years later. Just before warranty expired, the TSB came out, they replaced the front differential and it went away until the vibration/drone just started back, almost 3 years later. Shoulda just left it be after doing the bushing install because now I gotta do it again lol
Luckily it’s not too bad, just time consuming
Very cool video. I've heard of these being an issue. Ill have to pop one of these in soon. Thanks!
Thank you! Really appreciate it. It’s allot of work doing the work and getting video.
Trying the build the channel and get better camera gear
Literally just put a 3in lift on my 2014 Tacoma and now the Diff is leaking and a new axle and seal did not stop It from leaking. The axle has a lot of movement in It so I wonder if this part would fix my leak and movement without having to buy a brand new front diff?
Yes go on east coast gear supplies website they will show what years they have this part for the Tacoma also
Great video
Starting to wonder if fwd v6 Toyota are the same?
I’m not sure, I’ll see what I can find and will reply to your comment here
@@EvergreenOffroad thx for the reply
96 to 04 differential 7.5 size and 05 and up differential 8" different needle bearing size and tools!
Approximately how long is it to do this job? Thx in advance
Depends on the individual but should be able to do it in two hrs
Great video man! I have 3 inch lift on my Tacoma. Should I be worried about this?
Not until it starts making noise. I have yet to hear of any catastrophic failures with it.
Might be a dumb question but when all that oil dumps out when removing the CV do i need to add dif oil? Or is that not a thing?
I went ahead and changed the diff fluid after this process. You could just remove the fill bolt and top it off.
Not a dumb question at all.
My 2020 SR5 4runner just started making that droning noise this morning. Looks like this bearing replacement might be in my future soon. This is an excellent video. Any chance you might post a video on how to remove and replace the CV joints? Thanks!
Yes at some point. A angled pry bar with a end that looks like a flathead screwdriver is what I used. There are notches on the cv that I held that against and used a dead blow hammer to get it out.
If the lift ads so much tension, then why can I grab and wiggle the axle where it enters the Diff ?
It’s not so much that the lift adds tension but it puts the cv at a different angle than being perfectly in line horizontally with the axle housing and the cv axle.
In all reality Toyota should be doing a recall on this but they refuse because it doesn’t cause anything that they would call a catastrophic failure.
This is great! Just replaced the seal after noticing a leak. Fluid is still leaking and the cv axle has a lot of play, assuming this might be the reason. Any other thoughts on why the CV Axle would have play and be leaking (this is a new cv axle, passenger side does not have this issue)? Going to do this tomorrow. Thanks for your time making this video.
Ya that sounds Ike the needle bearing is toast.
Install a clam shell bushing and new seal and it should be good to go
I believe I may have this issue on my 2016 4Runner with 3.5” Icon Stage 7 lift and 4.88 Yukon gears. Will these parts work with my truck? I assume so. Great job guys! This clunk has been driving me nuts and nothing else is wrong.
Yes go to East coast gear supply and they have a list of comparable years
I'm just learning about this after throwing in the towel and living with the problem. Been living with this for 60k miles. This sounds like a class action lawsuit to me, is there one? Excited to know I can finally get rid of this annoyance. A guy in the Facebook 4Runner group said to put the truck in 4WD on a nice straight away and see if it goes away, and it did! After that he said to search "needle bearing 4Runner". I find it hard to believe all Toyota service centers don't know about this.
They are absolutely aware of it, the only fix they are doing is replacing the whole front differential. The only issue is that it does not fix the issue. It’s going to happen again.
I have a 2009 TRD access cab with a wedge camper. The suspension is stock. The truck has sagged an inch or two. I was going to get 5100s and airbags to get the suspension back to ~ normal. I done need or want a lift. Should I do the bearing replacement just to be safe? Thanks
It definitely will not hurt to do it. At some point you will have to do it
@@EvergreenOffroad
Ok. Is it just the driver side? The passenger side never goes? Thanks
@@at1970 it’s a different setup on the passenger side for some reason.
@@EvergreenOffroad
Thanks
@@EvergreenOffroad
Do you know if there is any difference between the east coast gear bushing and the one offered by nitro?
They all get the noise once lifted. My 2015 and 2020 have had the noise on the drivers side. If it’s in warranty take the tech for a ride and put it in and out of 4 wheel drive to hear the noise difference. Don’t use this if it’s still under warranty. If you have other issues with the front end and they find it….
I agree that if you are not able to 100% diagnose that this is the issue and or still under warranty it’s best to have it looked at by a professional.
The one issue I have heard is that even when Toyota does warranty it they replace the whole front differential and it will have the same issue over time with the needle bearing.
If you have a backup vehicle it’s not a big deal but otherwise it becomes a pain dealing with Toyota having the vehicle for long periods of time.
How much movement does the CV have after this install? Zero? Half? I'm hoping this will help with steering wheel shake
Far less movement
ua-cam.com/video/BOvoM5irtEc/v-deo.html This is on ECGS website & shows the before & after play in the axle. Before: 50 mil. After: 5 mil.
Will this fix the death wobble/ vibration on steering wheel issue?
If you have already road force balanced your tires I would say it definitely has a good chance of fixing it.
@@EvergreenOffroad Thanks for answering my question!
Awesome video :) can’t wait to start working on mine once it’s above 0 degrees lol
Working on vehicles in the cold is terrible. I replaced my cv boots when it was freezing temps and I will never do that again.
Do you have the OEM part number for the seal? Also do you know if the driver's side axle seal is different from the passenger side? Doing this job and want to make sure I get the right one.
R Side Axle Seal (PN 90311-47026) / L Side Axle Seal (PN 90311-47027)
Perfect. Thanks so much. Got the needle bearing out yesterday. Funny--the extraction tool I bought from ECGS had some issues with the threads. Had to use a tap and die on it to get it to work smoothly, The ECGS bushing is in the freezer--going to do the bushing and seal tomorrow. Cheers! @@EvergreenOffroad
@mpr3209 No problem, I had to grind the edges of the removal tool so it would fit.
What are the signs of bad needle bearings?
Noise at certain speeds and or vibration in the steering wheel
So is this a driver side issue only?
Yes, only drivers side
Awesome job on the video and very informative. Just subbed and look forward to many more videos.
Really appreciate it!, I was really hesitant on not recording during the day but I think it actually helped focus the attention directly on the work being done.
@@EvergreenOffroad The additional light helped better see everything and a better idea of the work that you were doing. I'm getting ready to have this done soon as well but figure when I have my gears installed it might be the ideal time to have them do it. I don't mind doing the work but I'm not about to mess with gears personally.
Oh I absolutely agree, I will do something like this myself but gears are a whole different thing.
They could easily do this when you have the gears done.
@@EvergreenOffroad that was my thought exactly
9:00 is that a reflection into the camera or does your buddy’s fancy tools have a laser guide on it?😂
I did not notice that until now 😂, I think it’s a reflection off the wrench
Is this only an issue drivers side?
Yes, passenger side is different
@@EvergreenOffroad Thx for your rsvp, appreciate it.
@@tamasmaksza6450 no problem, exactly why I make these videos
So if I have play in my passenger side (T100) would that be the same issue but also includes the tube bearing that may need replacement? Trying to decide on parts to order and kinda want to do both sides...
Yes from my understanding it’s a normal ball bearing on the passenger side. Sorry it took so long to reply.
So did it resolve this issue after this install?
Yes it did. I’ve done this same thing on five friends vehicles now.
Some had issues beforehand of noise and or vibration issues.
All resolved after doing this.
That’s awesome. I’ve been experiencing a groan between 40 - 60 mph on my 2018 SR5 Prem 4wd w 3” lift…sounded like the rear differential. Found a TSB on it…T-SB-0074-19. I swapped the rear differential with a 2020 diff. Still some noise at 40-50 mph.
@@peterlee1299 that groan noise was the same for my buddy that has a TRD PRO with only 15,000 miles. The ecgs stopped that noise.
Keep me updated if you do the ecgs and if it helps, I bet it will.
double nut the top of the stud and you can hold it with a wrench or socket
I fuckin knew it!! I've been tryin for like almost 2 hours tryin to get that back piece in there. What did you do exactly?
What piece are you trying to get back in?, the removal tool?
Double nut the top of the tool and hold the nuts with a wrench or socket
I need to find someone in Indiana that can help me with this
It’s honestly not too hard to do. Just take your time
Hey I have a great idea, how bout Toyota just make a freaking needle bearing assembly that fits the freakin truck.
@@daneswanson absolutely great idea.
Ok, call me stupid but how does the new solid “bushing” function as it lacks needle bearings? I know it does work but with tighter clearances and what I’d assume would be less oiling, I just don’t get it. Like I said, I might be stupid.
So I’ll be honest and admit I’m not 100% sure. I’ll look it up and comment back here.
@@EvergreenOffroad Thanks, I just ordered the parts for my truck even though it has not started having an issue yet but I know my lift isn’t doing the bearing any favors. And yours is probably the 4th video on the replacement I’ve watched-learn something different each video it seems. Thanks again.
@JetSkiSuper7 no problem, I’ve done it on five 4Runners now.
So I'm not an engineer or mechanic. I'm just a rando.
I too was puzzled by this. Here's briefly what I was able to learn:
In some applications, needle bearings are superior. They offer lower resistance, easier rotation. They are also lower friction than bushings, and have lower lubrication demands. All else equal, needle bearings are better than bushings in many applications.
Where needle bearings struggle is at the edges of performance or with very high loads. Because of the lower contact area, pressures on any individual needle piece in the needle bearing can be astronomically high. So as this CV articulates, it will have some degree of movement and extremes of pressure. When high loads are placed on a tiny needle bearing, the failures can be catastrophic.
Needle bearings can fail gracefully, or they can fail catastrophically where the needle rollers fall into rotating components (like the front diff). Because they are hardened, they will absolutely wreck gears. I don't think this happens in situations like the video, especially since the splines of the CV are engaged and fit tightly. But it could happen in engines. Or maybe during an unfortunate removal gone wrong. I suppose fully inspecting the needle bearing to ensure all pieces of it are intact is warranted. I know it is common with speciality engine builders to replace needle bearings with bushings for this exact reason. In racing engines, needle bearings are still used because the engine is rebuilt on a regular basis (like every race in some cases) but when you have a high output diesel doing towing, downtime costs you a lot of money so bushings are more commonly used for longevity.
In a situation where there are high pressures, the bushing will provide a much larger surface area to distribute the loads. It will, as a consequence, generate more heat and friction as a result. Neither the needle bearing nor the bushing will ever be a permanent fix, as these ultimately are wear components that need to be replaced. So you will still be replacing bushings, but perhaps not as frequently as needle bearings in situations like the CV axle.
I would caution people doing this to ensure they can remove their fill plug first, before touching anything, since you need to refill the fluid that dribbled out if this is done with the case drained.
@@JulietHotelFoxtrot very good points!, appreciate the reply. Also very well explained and written out!.