14x17 Pinhole & Gum Over Cyanotype!
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2022
- Shooting ultra-large format pinhole images on XRAY film, and making a multi-coloured, gum over cyanotype from one of the negatives.
#xrayfilm #largeformatphotography #pinhole - Розваги
Mind blown. Amazing skillset and results. And pro-level quality video editing and production. Your personality is a perfect match for the style of videos you make: expert, confident, and with the most delightful upbeat yet mildly self-deprecating wit and humor. Your channel and videos are what UA-cam was originally made for (and the model the best content and content creators strive to produce).
Great video! Really get a sense of how big a 14x17 camera is. Love the masterful printmaking too.
Thank you for watching and commenting! I really do appreciate it!
Deeply satisfying. X-ray film, ULF, and cyanotype: a great combination.
Brilliant!
Great!!!!
Double WOW!
Hi Andy, Am enjoying your whimsical, educational approach to photography. I am sure with a little time, your channel will catch on. My question is, you mentioned and showed the Reciprocal Chart for X-Ray film and was wondering if you have a link or a way for us to copy it for our X-ray photography. Thanks in advance and keep up the great work. Andrew
Thank you, Andrew! If you follow this link, it will take you to Photrio (formerly Apug). I posted curves and compensation there. You could easily make a graph with my numbers. Cheers!
www.photrio.com/forum/threads/x-ray-film-reciprocity-effect.62519/
@@analogueandy8x10 Thanks for the link, Andy. Much appreicated.
Wow!
Hi Andy!
You said, you usually use two filters: yellow or green. When you use yellow and when you use green filters?
If there is a lot of blue sky or blue sky with clouds, I'll use a yellow filter. This will help to separate clouds and sky. I like to use a green filter when there is a lot of foliage.
@@analogueandy8x10Thank you!
Hi Andy, Just a thought, how much trouble would it be to show your steps and procedures for creating your Cyanotype? If it’s too much of a bother or you feel there wouldn’t be any interest I completely understand. I’ve have dabbled in Cyanotype and enjoy how you tone your images. The key is to get a good substrate (Cyanotype) in the beginning. Thanks for the consideration. Andrew
It's definitely doable...Once I finish up editing a couple more I've got in the can. I've been playing around with the New Cyanotype, but I'm not liking it as much as the traditional formula (as used in this video). If I do do a step by step video, I'll probably use the traditional formula... I was thinking about comparing the two formulas, too. Cheers!
@@analogueandy8x10 I think doing the traditional formula would be great as well as a comparison between the two. Thanks for answering and considering ‘producing’ the Cyanotype Extravaganza !! ;-))
@@andrewweis3028 I waiting for some Hahnemuhle PR to come in. Down to two large sheets!
Hi Andy, can you make a video on how to make a reciprocity chart for x-ray film? I have been using Fuji Super HR-U mostly with my 8x10 a 250mm fuji lens and sunny 16. I'm working on a ULF pinhole camera atm. If not, can you point me in the right direction? Great Video I'm hoping to one day have my ULF camera finished and working with the cheapest lens I can afford. A Pinhole 🤣🤣🤣
I prefer to run the test under my enlarger with controlled light, and ND filters instead of adjusting the lens aperture. You'll need an ND filters so that you will be able to increase the exposure time from 1 second, to 10, and to 100. Phil Davis outlines the procedure in his book, Beyond The Zone System. You could also use my data, as it will probably be close:
For 1 sec give 1.5x or +2/3 stops more exposure; 10 sec give 3x more exposure or +1 2/3 stop more; 100 sec give 12x or +3 2/3 stop more...
@@analogueandy8x10 So what about 4 min 34 sec or 274 sec? Would that be in the 12x? When i was testing today my Pinhole guide put my times really high. I wasn't sure if 10 min would work on 274 sec or if that was overkill.
@@SenpaiSkyy If you graph my values, with time on bottom axis, and stops and factors on the vertical, then draw a smooth curve connecting them, eyeballing the curve beyond 100 sec, you'll accommodate those times, and will be very, very close. I have always done it this way, and have not had to tweak anything.
@@analogueandy8x10 Thank you for the information. I will try myself.
@@SenpaiSkyy keep me updated! How can I see your work?